Make a Coffee Bag Wallet & Friends for Free: I lost my wallet in San Francisco a few months ago and have not wanted to buy a new one. As I was throwing a coffee bag away the other day, I thought it was good material for something or other so I saved it. While saving the 4 th b…
いいと思った作品を勝手に紹介していきます。表紙は写真の父アルフレッド・スティーグリッツ。
Staying with the theme of the last few weeks Friday ‘lists’ today I bring you a collection of free tutorials and patterns for wallets, pouches, clutches and purses. With the wonders of …
You can purchase an INEXPENSIVE AD-FREE PDF of this pattern on Etsy HERE and on LoveCrochet HERE! This beautifully formatted PDF includes the step-by-step pictures and is a total of 4 pages…
Am Donnerstag habe ich bei Rums meinen Geldbeutel gezeigt, der nach der Idee meines Mannes, als Prototyp für seine Börse entstanden ist. Bei der Entstehung des zweiten Täschchens habe ich mitfotografiert und so kommt hier nun das Tutorial für das gute Stück. Ihr braucht: 4x Quadrat mit Ka
Artwork confirmed as genuine is reclusive artist’s first comment on vote to leave EU and comes at time of increasing tensions
Market Bag with its extra-secure handles and large volume, it is the perfect bag to carry many heavy items in
Learn how to make plastic thread using plastic yarn (plarn). This plastic thread is excellent for sewing plarn creations together or attaching buttons.
Get farmer's market ready with our sewing tutorial for reusable produce bags! You will feel great about using less plastic and proud of the project you made
A “Special Ingredient” Makes It Snap Open and Closed! This cute little bag has a special feature that’s not apparent at first glance. Pull the triangular tabs and it snaps open. A little pressure and it snaps shut. That makes this clever bag useful for so many things. Pieces of a metal measuring tape from …
About to turn 14 and looking good!
Today, I made a simple square-shaped duffel bag. There are pockets on both sides for convenient storage of small items. And the inside of this bag is neat because it is lined without using vias. If Yo
DIY Open Wide Pouch This versatile pouch can be packed and repacked with your necessities. It can be used as a clutch or sometimes as a cosm...
open wide zippered pouch: DIY tutorial - Noodlehead, a fast and fun pouch that opens wide!
Night time in Tokyo is truly special. The city completely transforms, with neons and flashing lights overloading your visual senses or maybe even the quiet streets with a solitary lantern swaying in the cool night breeze.
Cosmetic Pouch Sewing Pattern & Tutorial I love a makeup bag that stands up while I grab stuff out of it. That flat bottom design makes...
Satisfactory Service: You are not satisfied with the product, please contact us, you can provide us with some suggestions for product improvement, thank you for your support! Material of rectangular containers: made of good quality tin plated steel. Product Size: 95 x 58 x 21mm/3.7" x 2.3" x 0.8"(L*W*H);Material thickness:0.23mm. No Sharp Edges,The top and bottom are permanently attached so you never have to worry about losing the lids.(12 per pack) These metal containers have snug closures, and may help prevent germination by protecting the contents from light and moisture. Use as basic storage containers for small items in the home.Great for used for containing products such as pills, mints, candies, teas, herbs, planting seed, and more.
We're diving into some new waters this week and teaming up with Heidi from Fabric Mutt to bring you this 15-step tutorial for this adorable trinket
Get ready for any adventure with this six pocket dice bag sewing tutorial. This is the perfect bag to sort and store all of your dice.
If you love to make quick and easy projects as gifts this Zippered Bags with a Twist One Way Zip Class on Craftsy is a must take! Special discount included!
It doesn't matter if you're on a job, in the office, on the lawn or in the kitchen. Aluf always has you covered. with over 42-years experience and millions of bags sold every year, we know a thing or 2 about garbage bags."}},"base-catalog-314412118":{"__typename":"BaseProduct Frustration free - our RL X black trash bags are rugged and mean 1.0 mil thick gauge (equivalent) means your project will stay puncture, tear and frustration free Save money - RL liner bags are tough on debris, not on your wallet we provide the same value the big brands do at half the price Proudly made all Aluf Plastics products are carefully and proudly made Save the environment our large commercial plastic garbage bags are made from at least 90% recycled material, feel good knowing you are reducing landfill waste without sacrificing on quality
Pyramid Clutch Pouch Free Crochet Patterns
DIY DOUBLE ZIPPER POUCH BAG Welcome to the Double Zipper pouch Bag tutorial! This nice zipper pouch has 2 separate compartments to organize ...
This article discusses all the advantages of seeing Europe by high speed rail. There are several different types of trains and scenic tours available for most of the Central and Western Europe.
Want to make a vinyl project pouch? They are great for storing WIPs, cross stitch, sewing, EPP and more! This post includes measurements to make 4 sizes!
Share your baked goods in style with this easy DIY cookie gift basket made from a paper plate. Cheap and easy treat packaging.
Earthbag houses are typically simple to design and build, especially when building a dome-shaped home. See exactly how this Earthbag dome was constructed.
A tower-style sleeve placket is used on men’s shirts, but some of women’s shirts also use this same type of placket. I think it is suitable when you want your shirt to have a more masculine, strong, powerful look. It looks a bit intimidating, but like any technique, with some practice, you will be able […]
Have you all made box pouches at least once? Today, I will introduce a Boston bag with a simple design similar to that of a box pouch. Easily make this bag using the patterns I've shared. DIY Front Po
Here's a great little tutorial to sew a fabric and vinyl flex frame pouch. You could also use to make a flex frame purse.
I know there are lots of zippered pouch tutorials out there, and they're great, but I haven't found one that explains how to make the ends of the zipper more finished. Once I figured out how to do this, I thought I'd share. This tutorial is more about the zipper ends than it is about the finished pouch. Though I am going to tell you how big I cut everything, you can easily make these pouches any size you want. I tried to take a lot of pictures, but if anything is unclear, please let me know! Supplies: (2) Exterior pieces, I cut mine 8.5" x 6.5" (2) Lining pieces, mine are 8.5" x 6.25" (1) 2"x4" piece of exterior fabric to cover the zipper ends (2) pieces of medium weight fusible interfacing OR fusible fleece the same size as your exterior pieces. The interfacing you use will determine the feel of your pouch. The mid-weight interfacing, I used Decor Bond by Pellon, gives the pouch a bit more stiffness while the fleece will make the pouch more soft and pliable. ***UPDATE Shape Flex (SF 101) is what I use most often now. It bends nicely with the fabric since it's woven. You can also use it in conjunction with Decor Bond or fusible fleece. (1) zipper--Mine is 7" The rule of thumb here is to have your exterior pouch length be 1.5" longer than your zipper. So in my case, the length is 8.5" so I used a 7" zipper. Trim the corners of the fusible interfacing to reduce bulk and fuse to the exterior of your pouch. Trim the ends of the zipper to where the little "stoppers" on the zipper are. Fold the 2"x4" piece of exterior fabric in half lengthwise and press. Open it back up and fold in one side to the crease you just made and press. Repeat for the other side. Fold again along the original center crease and press. Cut the skinny 4" strip in half to create two .5"x 2" pieces. Open up one piece and tuck one end of the zipper in. See what I'm doing? Sew about 1/8" away from the edge next to the zipper. You can try and use pins to hold the tab in place, but I found the piece to be so small that it's easier for me to hold it. Repeat for the other side. This side will be a bit trickier since you will have to unzip the zipper and hold the two free pieces together as they would be when the zipper is closed. Again, you can try to pin, but I get better results (i.e. less shifting) by just holding it. Trim the extra fabric away from the zipper tabs. You should end up with something like this. With your lining right side up, place your finished zipper on top and center it. This is easy to do on your cutting mat--use the ruler markings to make sure it's even on both sides. Place your interfaced exterior fabric right side down on top of the lining. See? Right sides together, sandwiching the zipper in between. There are other ways to attach the zipper to the fabric where you can actually see the zipper while sewing, but I like this method. If you want to do it another way, go for it! Pin in place. You can see in this picture, it looks as if the lining has shifted a bit, but it is just from the pining along the top. The top edge is straight with the exterior, interior, and zipper lined up. I'm not going to lie, this is the trickiest part. Put on your zipper foot, take a deep breath, and sew about 1/4" away from the top edge. You are essentially doing this Stevie Wonder style since you can't see the zipper, but you can feel it! The first 1/2" near the zipper pull is the hardest and you may have to tug on the end or push it through for a bit. Just go slow. Once you make it past the pull, it's really easy. I leave my pins in and sew over them. This, I have found, is critical to keep all three layers lined up. I have as yet to break a needle, but I have broken a few pins. I'd much rather risk a broken pin than bring out my seam ripper because my layers shifted. You should now have something like this. Use your iron to press the lining away from the zipper. Press the exterior fabric down too. To give the exterior a more finished look and to secure the lining from getting caught in the zipper, I top stitch the exterior about 1/8" away from edge near the zipper. I know I'm not using my zipper foot correctly here, but it worked so stop laughing! Truthfully, I'm never sure I'm using it correctly, I just do whatever works to get a zipper attached. Rules be damned! Now it's time to attach your other lining and exterior pieces. You do this the same way you did before only now you have some fabric attached to your zipper. No biggie! Repeat my previous instructions on pining the layers and sewing on the zipper. Remember to top stitch the exterior on the other side, we want your pouch to look pretty! It should look like this now. The next step is super important. Are you paying attention? Don't skip this part! If you've printed this out, highlight this part: OPEN UP THE STINKIN' ZIPPER! You will be cursing yourself and making best friends with your seam ripper if you forget that! We're going to pin the exterior and lining right sides together, but first, we need to sort of fold/smush the zipper toward the exterior. See how I'm pinching it? Pinch it into place where everything is lining up--you can see how the top edges of the exterior fabric would line up if I squeezed them together, right? Pin that little guy in place! Continue pinning around all the edges. UPDATE: You *can* do this step and have the zipper pushed toward the interior, I guess when I made this one I just found this way worked for me to keep things lined up. Since making this tutorial, I find myself always pushing the zipper teeth toward the lining instead. Maybe this pouch was a freak of nature, who knows! Feel free to experiment to find what works best for you! Here's what it looks like all pinned together. Starting in the middle of the lining, about 2" away from the corner, using a 5/8" seam allowance, sew a few stitches and back stitch. We are going to leave an opening in the lining so you need to secure the stitches so your pouch won't come apart when you turn it. I leave the pins in for this step too! When you sew past the zipper/tab area, you may have to pull or push a bit since there are so many layers, just go slow. When you reach the exterior fabric, I sew slightly less than 5/8", more like 1/2", so that the lining will be a tiny bit smaller than the exterior and fit better into the pouch when I turn it. You don't have to do this. You can sew with the same seam allowance around the entire pouch. **update--so you understand, sew very very close to the tab, but not through it. When you get back to the lining side, leave a 3" opening or so for you to turn your pouch. Remember to backstitch at the beginning and end of either side of the opeing! Trust me, I know this from experience. If you fail to backstitch this bad boy can come part on you--the turning process can be rough on stitches! Hi there! You will soon be pulling the entire pouch through that tiny hole! It's a bit like child birth. :) But first! Clip your corners! Careful, don't clip your stitches! Now push! he he! Push, pull, finangle, shimmey the exterior fabric through the open zipper and then through the hole in the lining. Keep going. It's a messy job. Whew! Now use something pointy, but not sharp, to push out the corners of the exterior fabric. Also use the tool to push out/up the finished ends of the zipper. Wrinkly, but lookin' good! Now iron the lining down a bit. Sew the lining hole shut. My raw edges naturally turned under once I turned it, but if yours don't, just fold them in and press then sew the opening shut. You can hand sew this closed if you care about seeing the stitching, but I don't. It's at the bottom of the pouch, a pouch that is meant to be used, so surely the stuff you put in it will hide the stitching, right? My thoughts exactly! Yay! Tuck the lining inside and...... you're done! See how pretty the ends are? Now, what to put inside?
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(Warning: it's about to get mathy up in here!) But, before we go there, have I mentioned how much I enjoy sewing custom orders? I lov...
