The Celtic weave crochet stitch is a popular criss-cross stitch that flawlessly weaved in and out. It can be used in patterns like scarves, hats or blanket.

this looks so complicated but it isn't it is just the order in which you knit the stitch like a one stitch cable!!!!! I work on an even count and slip the first stitch and purl the last stitch you can do whatever it is you know to keep the edges flat or add a border if you like a moss stitch beginning and edge might look nice but it depends on what you are making of course!!!! hope you try it and if there are problems let me know enjoy!!! the secret to this is that you work the SECOND stitch first that's it that's all if you are doing an edging work those stitches and then do the pattern which is pick up the second stitch purlwise on the left needle work a purl stitch but leave the stitch on the left needle and work the first stitch as usual and pull both stitches off do this all across until you either get to the end or to the edge stitches that is all there is work the second stitch first and then the first stich and pull them both off together it will feel awkward the first few times of course but soon you will be knitting backwards and sideways and not even thinking about it..... (slip stitch and the first two purl stitches) now for the knit stitch put the needle in the back of the second stitch and make a stitch leaving it on the left needle put the needle into the first stitch in the usual manner and make a knit stitch and pull both the stitches off see... that's all there is to it second first and first second criss cross cross stitch woven single cable lots of names but only one way to make it and soon you will have a piece of woven fabric that you made with your knitting needles I have tried this in thin and thick and chunky in plain and multi coloured and it hasn't failed yet good luck!!!! :) the slip stitch/purl edge

A DIY Tutorial on how to add Cross Stitch to your crochet. This is an embroidery cross stitch that adds a lot to your handmade items.

The Criss-Cross stitch pattern produces a surprisingly dense, rigid and unyielding fabric. It is a great pattern for pillows and washcloths as well as bags, pillows, or scarves.

From left: 1. Korntrø-rosa, named for Korntrø Farm, 2. Hjart-rosa (Heart rose), 3. Skaltroll-rosa, also named Pine Cone Pattern (I believe) ...

visible mending with Flora Collingwood Norris, decorative Manding

This product is a downloadable pattern for the Tiger tapestry, no physical product is included. The image shown is a crochet piece, but this can also be used for knitting, cross stitch and other crafts. The PDF is a colour coded graph and it's 65x95 rows. The crochet sample I made ended up being 30x70cm. This pattern is for personal use only.

When you think of cross stitch, you probably think of Bible quotes hanging off the walls at your grandma's house. And hey, there's nothing wrong with that, but for those of you who want a little more from your embroidery, check out these badass examples compiled by Bored Panda. From crude comedy and crappy puns to gangster-themed patterns and good old fashioned insults, this awesome collection of alternative cross stitch will make you smile, although your grandma might not appreciate it quite so much. Would you hang any of these on your wall? Let us know in the comments below! (Cover Image: stu_spivack)

Making hats is a god way to try new stitches in nalbinding. The stitch used this time is often called "Dalby". I found a good description of it in the book "Gamla textila tekniker i ull" by Kerstin Gustafsson. It is described in a chapter called "Nålbindning efter Maj" (Nalbinding according to Maj). The stitch is common in the Dalby-area in the north of Värmland, Sweden. The yarn used is a loosely spun single in 100 % wool, "Samo" from Marks & Kattens. I found it a little too loose, but I got used to it. This finished result is OK and dense enough to be warm and cosy. I made the hat "long" enough so that one can fold the bottom part of it into a cuff, to get more warmth. When it was finished I dyed it brown, and I am very pleased with the result. I found the Dalby stitch easy to execute. Done with a thinner yarn it would probably also make excellent mittens.

When I was a teenager I loved Monty Python. And I had a group of friends who loved, it, too. Monty Python and the Holy Grail was our favorite, we could recite it, some even acted out part of it as …

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includes a how-to click picture Lord Kitchener, a British general, was concerned about the state of his men's feet--their sock seams rubbed their toes bloody. Accordingly, he invented (or more likely, IMHO, he had an expert knitter invent, and then took the credit for) a way to finish off socks smoothly. This toe-ending maneuver is now called the Kitchener stitch. Other names for this maneuver are: "weaving" or "grafting" seams. Kitchener stitch makes a very lovely ending--a sort of optical illusion that the knitting just kept going "around the corner." Without the red yarn picking out the weaving for you to follow (little picture) the seam in this sock toe would be completely invisible (big picture). Kitchener stitching is most often used for sock toes, but is sometimes used to graft other "live edges" together. Have a look at this high-fashion garment which uses large amounts to Kitchener stitching to close the long seams at the top of dolman sleeves. Now, the thing about Kitchener stitch is that it is usually done with a tapestry needle and a length of yarn, and typically terrifies knitters, being considered an "expert" skill. The needle goes in and out of the live stitches, following the complicated path that a row of knitting would take, and this accounts for the invisibility of the seam--the fabric is actually grafted together with a seam which is structurally identical to the fabric--in fact, Kitchener stitch is a form of duplicate stitch, when you get right down to it. click picture MAKING IT EASIER For some time, I have been nursing the theory that maybe the reason why some knitters avoid Kitchener stitch is because it is actually a species of sewing. It is my theory that if it you didn't have to dig out a tapestry needle -- if it could be done with knitting needles -- Kitchener-o-phobic knitters might find it more attractive. After a bit of messing around, this new unvention has emerged--a way to graft seams shut with knitting needles. This TECH-unvention is now ready to spring upon the world. This post asks you, dear readers, to fill the role of guinea pigs. My fellow blogger, kmkat, was the first guinea pig--she graciously volunteered to be a test-knitter before this post was ever published, and she found that the instructions worked for her. Now, perhaps you will try these instructions out for yourself and see whether you like this new method. Like the traditional sewing method, this new way is still done with a length of yarn pulled through the loops, but the "stitches" are real knitting stitches (knit and purl) not sewing stitches, and the work is done only with knitting needles--you can leave the tapestry needle in the cross-stitch kit, where it belongs. SET UP click picture When you have finished the toe of a sock, you must set up your work as follows: arrange all the front (instep) stitches on one double pointed needle, and all the back (sole) stitches on another double pointed needle--in the instructions which follow, these two needles are called the left needles, both front and rear. The yarn should be coming out of the last stitch on the rear needle--in other words, by the right hand end of the rear left needle, as illustrated above. For a typical sock toe, about 15 inches of yarn will be more than enough--cut the yarn to that length. This 15 inch length of yarn (illustrated in red, above) is the "working yarn." The work is actually done by manipulating this working yarn, using a third double pointed needle, the "right-" or "working needle." To complete your set-up, you must take this working needle into your right hand, while holding the two left needles in your left hand. A final note before beginning: Although this method is done with knitting needles, it is different than knitting because it is done with a CUT LENGTH OF YARN--which we are calling the "working yarn." Instead of making endless loops, you are going to do something unusual with your knitting needle--you are going to use it to draw the working yarn ALL THE WAY THROUGH each loop each time. If you look at the illustrations below, you will see that the working yarn (red) passes AS A SINGLE STRAND, through the stitch being worked. In other words, with each of the 4 steps listed below, the working yarn is to be pulled all the way through the stitch until the end of the working yarn has popped free, as illustrated. HOW TO KITCHENER STITCH with KNITTING NEEDLES Step 1: click picture Wrap (bring) the working yarn around to the front of the work. NOTE that the working yarn passes UNDER the two left needles, and UNDER the right working needle. Insert the right working needle into the first stitch (green) on the left front needle, and use the working yarn to PURL this first stitch. Draw the working yarn backwards (away from you) all the way through this stitch until the end of the working yarn pops free. The loose end of the working yarn (red) will now be in the area between the left needles. The stitch (green) which you were working is now fully bound off. Push this stitch off the left front needle. Step 2: click picture The working yarn should now be in the area between the left front and left rear needles. Insert the right working needle into the next stitch (purple)--which is the second stitch on the left front needle. Use the working yarn to KNIT this stitch. Draw the working yarn forward (towards you) all the way through this stitch until the end of the working yarn pops free of the stitch. The loose end of the working yarn (red) will now be in the front of the work. The stitch (purple) you were working on is only half bound off--you must leave this stitch on the left front needle. Step 3: click picture Wrap the working yarn around to the back of the work. NOTE that the working yarn again passes UNDER all the needles on its trip to the back of the work. Insert the right working needle into first stitch on the left rear needle (blue) and use the working yarn to KNIT this stitch. Draw working yarn forward all the way through this stitch until the end of the working yarn pops free. The loose end of the working yarn (red) will now be in the area between the two left needles. The stitch (blue) you were working is fully bound off--push this stitch off the left rear needle. Step 4: click picture The working yarn should be in the area between the left front and left rear needles. Insert the right working needle into the second stitch on the left rear needle (teal) and use the working yarn to PURL this stitch. Draw the working yarn backwards all the way through this stitch until the end of the working yarn pops free. The loose end of the working yarn (red) will now be at the back of the work. The stitch (teal) you were working is only half bound off--you must leave this stitch on the left rear needle. These four steps are repeated again and again to create a Kitchener stitched seam. If you want to chant the steps to yourself as you work, here is the mantra: Step 1: Purl front, push the stitch off Step 2: Knit front, leave the stitch on Step 3: Knit rear, push the stitch off Step 4: Purl rear, leave the stitch on (When my kids hear me chanting like this, they know to stay away until the muttering ceases.) TENSION and SPEED Resist the temptation to give the yarn a good yank as you pull it through. Instead be mild in your adjustment--remember, as you're drawing the working yarn through the stitches, you don't have a knitting needle around which to form your loop. Therefore, if you want your Kitchener stitch to look like the rest of your fabric, you must leave enough extra slack to approximate the loop the working yarn would otherwise make around a knitting needle. Some instructions have you adjust the tension at the end, but that is really only possible with a smooth yarn over a short span. The hairier your yarn or the longer your span, the more it pays to learn to adjust the tension as you go. This work goes MUCH slower than you expect, because each set of 4 steps only re-creates what amounts to 1 knit stitch. In other words, even if you could do this as fast as actual knitting, it would take four times as long. Since Kitchener stitch actually takes a good deal longer than actual knitting, progress seems glacial. Persevere, however, and you will have lovely toes (or at least, your socks will). --TECHknitter You have been reading TECHknitting on: A new way to Kitchener stitch, also called "grafting seams" and "weaving seams."

Hello world, For those who don't know, filet crochet is a type of crochet that is based on a mesh made of blocks that are either 'open' or 'closed'. Great for the mathematically minded like myself, and there are lots of tutorials online to show you how to get started with this. It can be done using larger hooks and thicker yarn to create blankets, or fine hooks and yarn to create something more akin to lace. I have been searching for a tutorial on how to covert a photo into a filet crochet pattern and I couldn't find one, so I've decided to write one of my own! Read on to learn how to achieve this. There are processes for creating a colour crochet blanket, etc, from a photo, however this is not what I wanted to do. I not-so-recently completed a gorgeous peacock filet crochet in Coates Mercer 100 cotton that once belonged to my great grandmother and it is just so lovely that I wanted to see where I could go with it. Unfortunately my drawing skills aren't amazing like my brother Michael, so I needed to use my Photoshop skills instead of manually reproducing the photo. Oh, and I'll post a photo of the peacock soon. I came up with the process because I am thinking of making an epic xmas gift, but because the person for whom I am making it may read this, I will say no more - for now. I wanted to make a filet crochet pattern from a photo. This is difficult for a number of reasons: Photos are high definition, they're in colour, and it is surprisingly difficult to figure out how to convert an image from colour to black & while only (i.e. with no greys). However, I am determined, and like Photoshop, so here is the tutorial. I hope someone else out there on the world wide web finds it useful. :) Step 1: Source your photo Get your photo or image. Low-res is fine as filet crochet, unless making one of epic proportions, is also quite pixelated. What you want to focus on are images with high contrast. Striking patterns such as stripes, etc, are great for the background if you want them, but again contrast, not colour, is the key. For this tutorial, I chose this loverly photo of my brother Tim, breaking most of the rules above. Not to worry, I embrace a challenge! Step 2: Adjust and convert to greyscale This step is about your own judgment. There's lots you can do to get the best outcome, but at the most basic here's what to do: Crop as much as you can. Don't waste space with background if you don't need to unless you have plenty of time and yarn on your hands, else you will regret it later. Then select 'Layer > New Adjustment Layer > Black & White'. Fiddle around with the various sliders to get the effect that you want - remember you want to maximise whites, blacks, and have minimal greys. I have Photoshop CS3 and I understand the 'Black & White' feature doesn't exist on some earlier version of Photoshop - in this case, select 'Hue/Saturation' instead and also create an additional 'Brightness/Contrast' layer to give yourself more control. As I said, there are lots of things you can do to further enhance your image at this stage. To get the below image, I used 3x brightness/contrast layers to improve the definition of the end of the pipe and the overall contrast of the image, plus I used the burn/dodge tool to add definition at the brim of his hat and the eyes, then used the black & white adjustment layer and played with the sliders. Step 3: Resize At this stage you need to decide how large and how detailed a crochet pattern you want - each pixel becomes an open or closed block in the filet crochet mesh. The smaller the image resolution, the faster and easier crocheting it is, but the larger the better detail you get. To give you a notion of size vs. pixelage, I am currently working on an image approximately 300 x 150 px using a tiny crochet hook and size 100 yarn and it is looking to turn out about 1 x 0.5 metres in size, so look out. For this tutorial, I resized the image to 150px width. Lower would lose too much detail and leave me with a greyish mess. I noticed my contrast wasn't great, so I decided to zoom right in and do some more work with the dodge/burn tools to improve the contrast I wanted. I know the below may look silly, but the end result can be greatly influenced by the modifications you make here. To resize an image in Photoshop, select 'Image > Image size...' and input the settings you desire. Step 4: Convert to halftone The bitmap halftone screen is how to reach a workable filet crochet pattern. To do this you need to complete two steps: Select 'Image > Mode > Grayscale' and click OK to flatten and discard all colour information. Use Image > Mode > Bitmap', leave the resolution as is and select the 'Halftone screen' method with the below settings, or download my settings and load them into Photoshop: Click OK and in essence you've got your pattern. Here's mine at both 100% and zoomed in so you can see the pattern better. Step 5: Save the image Press Ctrl+Alt+Shift+S to bring up the 'Save for web' or 'Save for web and devices' dialogue box. Save the image as a GIF file and it'll have a tiny file size due to being plan black & white. There's no need for transparency. Step 6: Print and add grid If you're nifty and/or OCD like myself, you can add a grid and resize the image before printing. However, in hindsight it is much easier to do it using the built-in Windows print picture function and add the gridlines yourself. To print the image ready for use, go the the folder where you have the image saved, click the file so it is selected and then select 'Print this picture' from the folder options Then follow the prompts. When it gets to the 'Layout selection' step, select 'Full page prints' as shown below. The image will print and really you can go ahead with just this. However, I always like to have my gridlines there to make sure I get the stitch count right, so to achieve this I recommend grabbing a mechanical pencil (for the fine tip and silver colour which will show up on both the black and white parts of the image) and a ruler and get to it. Another good idea is to rule a gridline of double thickness every 5 or 10 blocks to make keeping count easier. Et voila! You have now got a filet crochet pattern from a photograph. Congratulations! If you make one, I'd love to see! I promise I will post a photo of mine when it is done and gifted away. :) ----------UPDATE JANUARY 2013---------- I ended up making this portrait for my brother for xmas just passed. Here's a photo of the finished product: -------END UPDATE JANUARY 2013------- Well I hope this was useful. Ooh, and if you're interested, here is a peek at the pattern for the peacock that I finished a while ago: Au revoir! ~Eyespiral

Knitting chart that I made up for the lobster bib. Started with a typical lobster bib image, uploaded to Knitpro, cleaned up in Photoshop. Bib pattern on Craftster: www.craftster.org/forum/index.php?topic=306520.0

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Samtidigt som jag broderade stjärn-mobilfodralet till min kompis så gjorde jag ett likadant till mig själv som nu äntligen blivit monterat. Ulrika undrade hur man gör kavelfrans så jag fotograferade steg för steg hur jag gjorde. Med reservation för att det finns kavelfransproffs där ute i världen så visar jag har lärt mig att göra det genom att titta på bilder och även fått berättat för mig hur man gör. En träplatta med två borrhål, lagom för en sticka. Vira garn från spetsen på stickorna och in mot träplattan (på så sätt kan du peta av färdig frans och vira mer inåt). Sy kedjestygn med knyppelgarn genom de två lagren av garn. Gör fransen några centimetrar längre än det uppmätta tygstycket eftersom fransen drar ihop sig något när du tar bort den från stickorna. Sy fast med efterstygn och klipp sedan upp fransen. För att få fransen tät och fluffig så lägger du den (färdigmonterad) mellan en fuktig/blöt kökshandduk och stryk med ångstrykjärn på. Klipp sen till fransen så att du får önskad rundning och form. Så, nu har du en färdig kavelfrans!

Best free crochet patterns

Cross stitch pattern of the walk from the Ministry of Silly Walks sketch from Monty Python’s Flying Circus. You can stitch it in any color you like. Stitch it over and over again until you ha…

Fuck Off Bookmark Don't want to be disturbed while reading your favorite book? This is the bookmark for you. Easy to follow filet crochet chart makes this a quick project. Free! PDF Download download now Fuck Off Doily The Perfect Doily to set out for unwanted guests. Pattern includes a filet crochet chart. $3.00 PDF Download I Hate You Doily Show people how you really feel. Make them a lovely doily. Pattern includes a filet crochet chart. $1.00 PDF Download Hell Doily We're all going someday. Patten includes a filet crochet chart. $1.00 PDF Download The Doily Who's Name Shall Never Be Spoken Out Loud Yes we can all be one sometimes. $3.00 PDF Download

The Tartan Weave Stitch is a simple and straightforward combination of the Stockinette Stitch and some 3x3 Ribbing to generate a mock tartan effect.