A tiny tea set created with bits from nature.
What is this, a house for ants?!
1:12 Scale Lighted Miniature Mid-Century Modern Custom Order Design Lantern. **DISPLAY ONLY** Custom handmade miniature design. Not for sale ** Can replicate another to your personal design taste. ** This item was made for my daughter, who is a cat lover... Hence the cat pictures. :) The third photo shown represents the decor that was requested for this miniature piece. The other photos.. Well, the finished piece. This makes a great personalized gift! For my daughter, the silly winking pillow reminds her on those gloomy days that all she needs to do is turn on her lantern, see her winking pillow and knows her Mom is reminding her “You’ve got this Superwoman!”. :D Please, message me for pricing options as they greatly vary depending on size, color and options, etc...Along with your photos and any requests or questions and concerns. You can reach me by message via Etsy or at ~ miniaturesbynoellemarie [!at] gmail.com. I look forward to creating the perfect miniature for you!
Japanese artist Kiyomi brings some interior design chic to the world of dollhouses, with a range of handmade miniature antique furniture and accessories.
Ferd Sobol and his wife Mille have been dealers at Good Sam for more than twenty years. An IGMA Fellow, Ferd specializes in fine handcrafted 1:12 scale furniture from the Federal Period. He graciously shares photos of his most recent piece, The Breakfront. One of his most popular designs, this is an unprecedented Third Edition. Email: [email protected]. Web: http://www.SobolEditions.com Ferd Sobol Editions Breakfront. Ferd Sobol Editions Breakfront caning. Ferd Sobol Editions Breakfront flame finial tambour. Ferd Sobol Editions dovetails. Ferd Sobol holding The Breakfront. To see more of Ferd Sobol's fine furniture, to >here
There is a war going on in my country. They are trying to destroy my people. We are alive. I took my child to another country. My husband stayed to defend Ukraine and the whole world. I'm trying to get the job done here. If you want to help me and my family, just buy one or more items from my store. Now I am the only working person in my family. And have some patience. Now I can do everything not quickly, and I don’t know how fast shipments from another country can go to you. I will try. Shaby floral French style Dollhouse Carpet. I'll make to order. A beautiful rug that will fit in the interior of a Dollhouse in shabby style, Provence,classic,Victorian, and modern style. My rugs are made by the method of thermal transfer printing on 100% cotton. Lined termovision. My rugs are different in thickness and appearance,the most similar to real the real carpet.Suitable also for interiors at a scale of 1:48, 1:24, 1:12, 1:6 and 1:4. 1:48 is about 3.5 cm (1,18inch) per 2 cm (0,78inch.) 1:24 is about 8.5 cm (3,25inch) per 4.5 cm (1.75inch.) 1:12 is about 11-12 cm (4,72inch) per 9cm (3,547inch.) 1:6 is about 17-18cm (7inch.) per 11-12cm (4,72inch) 1:4 is about 26-28 cm (10.6-11 inch.) per 18cm (7.5 inch.) Also you can choose a carpet with fringe or without fringe along the edge Dimensions are approximate. It all depends on the model of carpet It is also possible to order the manufacture of carpet according to your picture or from my base drawings. Care: do not wash,do not iron. Can be cleaned with a slightly damp cloth. Be handled with care. !Color may vary due to different monitor settings! Do not give to children under 5 years of age. Dispatched worldwide. All will carefully pack. You will receive a tracking number to track parcels. If you have any further questions please click“Ask a question” and I will contact you as soon as possible. If you want to buy carpet right now, please click “add to cart” and we will try to arrange a deal in the near future. More photos and details of carpet can send your request by e-mail. Thanks for visiting, come again! I will try to please with new products more often:) Have a nice day and see you soon! Yours, Julia)
Hello, Hello! I know I missed August. My husband grows a garden every year and I can the vegetables for him. He's a big help with the canning, too. I put up over 115 pounds of tomatoes, mostly made into juice for him, some whole tomatoes for me. Lots of green beans were canned and I made grape jelly. Our blackberries didn't do well so I bought strawberries and peaches and made them into jam. Our pantry shelves are very colorful this year. I saw this cabinet on-line and thought it would make a good tutorial for you. The drawers and door open so you can fill them. The door is a little thick, I would recommend using 1/32" thick basswood for the outer layers and keep the middle layer 1/16" thick. The door would then be 1/8" thick instead of 3/16". Another design change, I would make the drawers narrower. I think they might be a little too tall for the cabinet. Making the drawers narrower will give you more room for the space between the shelving. It's up to you. I used wooden knobs from Hobby Builders Supply, Item #12007, 18 knobs for $5.36. The metal hooks are from Hobby Builders, too (www.miniatures.com) Item #65714, four hooks for $4.99. The wire mesh is something I bought from Michaels a long time ago. I checked on-line to see if Michaels has it and I couldn't find it. I then Googled Paragona wire form or Amaco wire form and found Dick Blick carries it as did a few other places, they deal in clay supplies. I used the 1/8" pattern. Let's get started building the cabinet. I am using basswood. It is so much simpler to use wood. Yes, you can make this from mat board if that's what you have. Considerations have to be made for mat board and wood is just easier to use. This cabinet will be glued together using yellow carpenters glue, either Elmer's or TiteBond. Cut the back and sides from 3/32" thick basswood. The back and sides are the same length or height, 3 1/8", the grain is vertical on both pieces. After cutting that length set the saw to 2 11/16" and cut the width of the back. With the saw still set at 2 11/16" cut the bottom shelf that holds the drawers. This is cut from 1/16" thick stock, and will fit between the sides just like the back. It's easier to cut this now so you don't have to re-set the saw. The grain will be horizontal on this piece. I'll cut the depth of the shelf later along with the other shelves. Set this piece aside after you have it cut. You might want to mark what it's for so you don't use it for something else, it's been done. Back to the sides, the sides are 3/4" deep or wide. Above is a picture of a side. After I have the width cut I am marking the curve at the bottom using my circle template. I am using the 1 5/8" circle to mark that curve. To make identical cuts I am using glue stick to glue a scrap of paper to one side of a side. Apply glue stick to the paper. (For more complicated cuts I will use yellow or white glue, not tacky, letting it dry. Yellow or white glue holds better.) After applying glue stick to the paper press the other side onto the paper. Line up all the edges and let this dry for about fifteen minutes. You might want to clamp this if you have clamps, the wood might curl away from the glue. I used my scroll saw to cut the curve. Pop the two pieces apart, peel off the paper. Give the surface a light sanding to remove the glue residue. These are my two sides and the back. Use yellow carpenters glue and glue the sides to the back. Glue the sides to the side edges of the back. Do not glue the sides on top of the back. PLEASE LET THIS DRY THOROUGHLY BEFORE GOING ON. The shelves and middle divider are 5/8" deep, your first shelf is cut to length all ready. Set the saw to 5/8" and cut the bottom shelf that width. With the saw still set on 5/8" cut at least 10" of 1/16" thick basswood for the shelves and middle divider. I cut myself a cheater block so my shelf will be level when glued. This piece of wood is 1/2" wide. That is the space left at the bottom of the cabinet. The cheater block doesn't have to be exactly the width of the back just close. Glue the shelf in. Let the glue tack, then carefully remove the cheater block. You should have a level shelf. I am going to explain this technique again. Someone misunderstood how this is done. Sometimes it's hard to find the middle mathematically. I want to find the middle of this piece. Measure beyond the middle, mark. Using the same measurement, measure from the other side and mark. Now measure between your two marks. I did not say to eye it and find the middle, we measure. I have the middle of my piece of wood. Just something I thought I would pass on. I use it a lot. Find the middle of your cabinet back. Find the middle of the bottom shelf. Measure and cut the middle divider. Center the divider on your marks and glue into your cabinet. Remeasure to make sure your space at the top is the same measurement as the space at the bottom. It isn't as important to have exactly the same width on each side but it is important that the space be square or you will have trouble with your cabinet door. Let this dry a bit. The second set of shelves hold the drawers. Measure between the left side and the middle divider. When you have that measurement cut your shelf. Check that the width all the way up the left side is the same. Cut two more shelves for the left side. Set these aside for now. You'll notice I've gone and cut myself another set of cheater blocks for trying to get my shelves level. Cut a couple of pieces of scrap wood 21/32" tall, that's the space between these shelves. I am sorry about the 32" measurement. That's just past 5/8". At this point you change the distance between these shelves and the ones above. You are going to be measuring on your own so it's up to you. Glue the shelf in, let it tack and carefully remove the cheater blocks. Measure between the middle divider and the right side and cut another shelf. You have another shelf for inside the cabinet, it is cut narrower to fit behind the cabinet door. Go ahead and cut this shelf to length now. We will cut it's depth later. Set it aside and mark it. Glue the other shelf in and let this assembly dry for a bit. From the looks of the next picture I got into the zone of constructing the cabinet and forgot to take pictures of gluing in the upper two shelves. Cut some scrap wood for cheater blocks 9/16" tall, that's the space between the shelves on the left side of the cabinet. Glue your two shelves in using yellow carpenter's glue. Let this assembly dry for a bit. I am measuring for the drawer fronts. They are cut from 3/32" thick basswood. This is my measurement. I must stress at this point you are going to have to measure for yourself and cut to your measurements. We all make our cuts a little differently, yes we do. The width of a pencil line makes a great difference when making miniature furniture. I want to leave a little room for the drawer to slide in and out easily so I am going to cut the height of the drawer front at 5/8". That will leave a little room at top and bottom. Cut a piece of 3/32" thick basswood, enough to cut two drawer fronts from 5/8" wide. The grain is horizontal, set this aside. Since I know the height of the drawer front I can also cut the height of the sides from 1/16" thick basswood. Cut the drawer sides, enough to cut four sides from. Put two drawer sides into the drawer space and measure the width of the space left. I am measuring for the drawer bottom. I cut my drawer bottom at 1 1/8" wide. The grain of the drawer bottom is going from front to back. The grain of the sides and back of the drawer is horizontal. I know the drawer front, the sides and bottom aren't finished, yet. They still need to be cut to length. With your saw still set at 1 1/8" wide cut a piece of basswood for the back. Mark all of these pieces so that you know which is which. I've slid in the drawer bottom with the sides (remember the sides haven't been cut to length, yet). Everything seems to slide all right. Measure the depth of the drawer space, minus the thickness of the drawer front, 3/32". I cut my drawer bottoms 1/2" deep. My saw is set at 1/2" and that is how long my sides need to be. I have two drawer bottoms and four sides ready to be glued together. Glue the sides to the edges of the bottoms. Please let this dry before going on. Your back is all ready cut to length when you cut your drawer bottom. What you need to do is cut it's height or width. Measure on the inside of the drawer the height of the sides and set your saw and cut the backs. Glue the backs onto the bottom and between the sides. Measure along the bottom front of your drawer and cut two drawer fronts that length. Glue the drawer fronts onto the drawers. I cut a top from 3/32" basswood. I cut it so that 1/8" is extra at each side and across the front. My top measured 3 1/8" long (from side to side) and 7/8" deep. The grain is horizontal. Glue your top onto the top of the cabinet. My right side shelf is all ready cut to length. The shelf needs to be 3/16" less than the depth of the other shelves. 3/16" is how thick my door is. I mentioned this before, I think I would have liked to use 1/32" thick wood for the face and back of the door, that would have the door be 1/8" thick. If you do this adjust the width of your shelf, add a 1/16" to my measurement. My shelf width is 7/16" wide. This picture is showing the thickness of my door, three layers of 1/16" thick basswood brings the door even with the face of the cabinet. I've made a cheater block for this, too. I've divided the space in half and cut my block 7/8" wide. Glue the shelf in and let it dry a bit. So far so good. The full-size cabinets had metal hooks and I liked that. I thought it paired well with the metal mesh in the door. I looked through my stash and found these coat hooks and they were too big. I used cutters to cut the bottom part off. I used the smaller bottom hook for my cabinet. Set these aside for now. I am measuring for the stiles (the vertical part of the door frame) for the cabinet door. I cut them 1 3/4". The width of my stiles is a fat 3/16". I thought 1/4" was just to wide. If you are buying your wood buy strip-wood 3/16" wide. I've cut two stiles, will cut two more. You are going to have a front and back to your cabinet door with the wire mesh between. Measure between the stiles for the rails (the horizontal part of a cabinet door). I cut my rails just shy of 13/16" to make sure I have space to open and close my door. I have four stiles and two pieces of 1/16" x 1/16". The 1/16" x 1/16" will be glued between the doors making the space for the wire mesh. Here are all my stiles and rails to make a front and back cabinet door. Ignore the shorter 1/16"x 1/16" on the left side of the picture. You will measure and cut 1/16" x 1/16" pieces when the door is further along. Glue the rails between the stiles for the front and back. Glue the 1/16" x 1/16" long pieces onto the stiles. Glue them so that the outside edges are even. Then measure and cut pieces of the 1/16"x 1/16" to fit between the longer pieces on the sides. Make sure all the edges are even. This is the package for the wire that I used to fill the cabinet door. A picture of the whole front of the package. This company is also known as AMACO. As I mentioned before I did find it on-line, seems to be used by hobbyists that use clay. I used to find this product at Michaels in the isle where the glues are sold or by the Fimo. This wire is very flexible and you can change the width of the diamonds. I painted my wire a brassy color and cut it to fit inside the frame I made with the 1/16" x 1/16" strip wood. Glue the other cabinet frame onto of this assembly. If you have clamps you may use them, just be careful to not mark the surface of the doors. Ready for a pin hinge. But wait . . . when I was painting my wire I found that the paint would fill the diamonds . . . hmmm . . . . do I still have some stained glass paint stuck somewhere? Yes, I had two little pots, blue and purple. I usually buy a little kit once every couple of years just to keep it on hand. (When making paper pottery I will use glass paint as a finish, it looks exactly like glaze. You'll find that in the "Things to do, Things to see" list. I painted my wire mesh black and then filled in with the stained glass paint. Wouldn't this look great on English cottage windows?? Or I could have put this in my cabinet door. Back to putting in the pin hinge To help keep the door steady I cut a couple of pieces of scrap wood the same width as my shelf, 7/16". I've set my door into place. With pin hinges you need to have the pins the same distance from the edges at top and bottom. If the pins are not in the same place the door will have trouble opening and certainly not open straight. The door will be wonky. So we measure but we have a top that extends beyond the rest of the cabinet, problem number 1. Measure not more than an 1/8" away from the side or front and mark. I usually measure 3/32". I forgot to sharpen my pencil, my mark is too big and messy. Remember the top extends 1/8" beyond the body of the cabinet. Add that on and make your marks. I am using a "T" pin to start my hole before I drill. Problem number 2 is that I have a shelf to drill around. I have tried make cabinets leaving the problem parts off until I fit the pin hinge and that certainly could have been done here. I usually can get around this and set the pin. I cut straight pins off and use them for my hinges. I drilled holes for my wooden knobs and glued them in. I used super glue, medium thickness to glue on the metal hooks. I know I've done this cabinet using wood and saws that some of you don't have. As I mentioned before you can use mat board just go back and review some of the cabinets I've made using mat board and I am sure you can make this, too. I do apologize for missing August. I've added some new and beautiful pictures to the Follower's Gallery, please go and take a look what other miniaturists have been doing with the tutorials and cheer them on. And I know I haven't said this in a very long time, Thank You All for reading and sending me all the appreciation that you do. You all make my day and keep this blog going. Have fun, Expand on it, Make it better . . . . Just Keep Making Minis!! Talk to you later, Kris
The Old Blue Barn, finished, I think, maybe...
The purpose of this project is to reuse anything around you and without spending any money :) Here is another project of mine from the last year I would love to…
1:12 Scale - Wooden - Approximate length of table 120mm = 4.3/4 inches
bbqweasel.blogspot.com.au/2017/03/simple-doormat-and-pin-...
Measurements: Width: 9.3 cm (3.66 in), Depth: 3.1 cm (1.22 in), Height: 16.1 cm (6.34 in) 1:12 scale
National Museum of Finland.
From delicate dollhouses to globally recognized puzzles to small animal figurines, the vast variety of toys that have emerged from Sweden over time are more than just playthings.
Once you see how easy it is to make your own mini rope baskets, you'll be obsessed. You just need rope and a hot glue gun, and a little coordination!
What is this, a house for ants?!
Hoorn, De kijkdoos museum
Japanese artist Kiyomi brings some interior design chic to the world of dollhouses, with a range of handmade miniature antique furniture and accessories.
Some clever folks have found a brilliant way to spoil their cat. People are repurposing a simple yet popular doll bed from IKEA, turning it into an adorable throne for their pets. Maybe felines aren't only interested in boxes after all?
Today, I will show you how to make a daybed for your 1/12 scale dollhouse. You will need: -1/16" x 4" x 24" bass wood(http://www.hobbylobby.com/Crafts-Hobbies/Wood-Crafting/Unfinished-Wood/1/16%22-x-4%22-x-24%22-4%22-Wide-Basswood-Sheets/p/29804) -All purpose glue(I use Aleene's) -Paint -sandpaper -craft knife/box cutter -legs(I used stair spindles. You can use any 1/8" dowel.) First, let's cut the wood. I used a small box cutter. A craft knife works too. You need a back piece and bottom piece(same size): 6 1/4" x 2 3/4". The 2 side pieces are 2 7/8" x 2 3/8". And the bottom rail is 1/2" x 6 1/4". Lets make the back of the bed a little more interesting by cutting a nice detail at the top. I cut 2 1/8" from the side and 3/8" from the top. Now the sides of the bed will be even with the back where they meet at the corners. I drew a line all around the back and 2 sides 1/4" from the edge. I'm going to cut a channel all around to make a nice groove detail. I used the Xacto knife to cut and lift the wood. Don't cut too deep. We only want to take off one layer of wood. Remove the wood inside this little channel you cut. Sand inside the groove. Also sand all the edges of your sides and back pieces of the day bed. It's now time to glue the bottom of the bed. I marked all the pieces to make sure the bottom will be straight. I drew this line 1/2" from the bottom. We'll be using the 1/2" rail we cut out earlier in the front of the bed under the bottom. Glue everything together. I glued the bottom to the back first and then each side. Lastly, I glued the 1/2" rail to the front, under the bottom and between the sides. Let the glue dry completely(or the wood will warp and un-glue with the paint). To make the pretty decorative relief I used cardstock and cardboard. To make a flower, I used cardstock cut into a flower shape. The flower shape is 3/8". I use 3 flower shapes to make 1 rose. The middle is rolled and glued onto one flower shape and then glued onto one more flower shape. The leaves are cut out of cardboard(like the cardboard from a cereal box). Make a pretty composition. You will want to harden the flowers or they will loose their shape with the paint. I used Modge Podge. You can also use white glue. Let dry completely. The legs of the bed are 1 1/8". I used stair rails that I cut to size. But a simple dowel 1/8" in diameter works too. Glue your legs in place and allow to dry completely. Once everything has dried, we can paint! For a true shabby chic I would first paint this bed grey, let dry, cover with glue, let that dry for 5 minutes and apply a thick coat of white paint. You would get a gorgeous crackle effect. For this bed I painted mine with 2 coats of white. Then I took a pencil that I cut with my box cutter to expose more of the lead and applied it into the grooves and around the edges. The more you apply the more dramatic the effect. I did mine pretty light. Once you wet the lead with your last coat of white paint, you will get a soft grey highlight to all the places where you applied the lead. The mattress base is a piece of cardboard 2 5/8" wide x 6 1/8" long. I hot glued some stuffing/pillow filler on top of the cardboard and trimmed it neatly. There's 1 3/4" of stuffing on my bed. Next, I covered with fabric. The fabric piece is 8 3/4"x 4 3/4". Hot glue the cardboard mattress to the bed. Now dress the bed with bed skirt, blankets, pillows. I put a dot of glue to hold the blankets in place. Some places I used hot glue. For the pillows, I fill them with candle filler sand. This makes the pillows heavier and more realistic. That's it! You're done. Enjoy your new daybed!
Japanese artist Kiyomi brings some interior design chic to the world of dollhouses, with a range of handmade miniature antique furniture and accessories.
Here is a very interesting sewing tutorial for your sewing projects. Learn how to sew with the bobbin thread in the needle. Find out why you may need to do it.
Artist Ali Alamedy has what some might call an eye for detail. The Turkish artist creates delightful miniature dioramas that are filled to the brim
Surprise the kids with a handmade gift! Browse our templates and how-tos for stuffed animals, knit and crocheted accessories, and custom clothes.
Listing is for 1 bag of frozen dollhouse chicken. Super cute, and definitely a staple that needs to be stocked in every dollhouse freezer! Not edible. Choking hazard. *Artwork on label is not my own. Comes free for added authenticity
Doll Armoire as Antique Sewing Center - too adorable for words!!
Be warned that these disturbing doll crafts are not for the faint hearted but when you get used to the visuals, you will soon realize that they are just quaint and represent a side to dolls that we don’t usually see. Some of them may almost seem like optical illusions that are simple yet so wonderful.
Eredetileg egy új sorozatot akartam indítani a blogon, sk készített babaházbútorok leírásával, csupa otthon megtalálható alapanyagból. De mint láttátok, hosszú ideig nem jutott időm alkotni - ezért aztán amikor végre lett lehetőségem készíteni valamit, persze, hogy elkapott a gépszíj, és az eredetileg tervezett kis puffok mellé hirtelen lett íróasztal, asztal és könyvespolc is. Így aztán valószínű, hogy nem sorozat lesz belőle, hanem csak egy-két önálló bejegyzés, én pedig elmélkedhetek az önuralom kívánatosságáról :-) Kanapét, kandallót, kisszekrényt és étkezőbútorokat már készítettem korábban, szintén semmiségekből, ezek azóta is használatban vannak, nagy megbecsültségnek örvendve. Az új inspiráció onnan jött, hogy miután számtalan, raklapból készített házi bútorcsodát láttam itt-ott, szöget ütött a fejembe az, hogy ha a raklapdeszka mini verzióját elő lehetne állítani, ugyanígy el lehetne készíteni ezeket a bútorokat miniben, azaz bababútor-méretben is - innentől pedig csak egy lépés volt ráébredni, hogy gyógyszertári kedvenceim, a nyelvlapocok (faspatulák) tulajdonképpen tökéletesen alkalmasak a feladatra. Így aztán nekikezdtem a bútorgyártásnak, és tényleg nehéz volt elszakadni a berendezésgyártástól - szerencse, hogy az erre fordítható idő több mint véges volt. Elsőként a könyvespolc készült el. Kiindulásként tehát gyógyszertári nyelvlapocokat használtam, amelyek nagyjából minden patikában beszerezhetők - egy doboz 500 Ft körül van, de ebből temérdek sok bútor kijön, nemcsak ennyi, mint amennyiről én írok. A könyvespolc hátlapjához négy spatulának egyenesre vágtam az alját. A polcokhoz akkora darabokat vágtam (egy nagyobb, erős, éles ollóval egyébként simán formára-méretre nyisszanthatóak ezek a falapok), amelyeknek a hossza a hátlap teljes szélességével megegyezett. Ragasztáshoz végig pillanatragasztó gélt használtam, kedvencemet, a Loctite gélt - sűrű, nem folyik, egyetlen pici tubus nagyon sok ragasztásra elegendő, és tökéletesen stabilan rögzít bármit, gyakorlatilag láthatatlanul. (De lehet persze ragasztópisztolyt is használni.) Egymás mellé helyeztem tehát a hátlapként szolgáló négy spatulát, és ezekre nyomtam a "polcok" egyik beragasztózott hosszanti oldalát. A könyvespolcnak persze oldalfalak is kellettek - ezekhez két további, egyik végén levágott spatula szükségeltetett, amelyeket szintén ragasztóval rögzítettem. Már csak festeni kellett - krémszínű akrilfestéket választottam ehhez. Ezen a könyvespolcon aztán annyira felbátorodtam, hogy úgy gondoltam, nekilátok egy íróasztal elkészítésének is. :-) Ehhez ugyanúgy a faspatulák kellettek, illetve két gyufásdoboz, a tervezett fiókokhoz: A két gyufásdobozt az oldaluknál egymáshoz ragasztottam. Spatulavégekből mindkét oldalra asztallábakat ragasztottam: A közöttük lévő résbe pedig a leeső részekből odaillő darabkát vágtam. A gyufásdobozok alsó részét is befedtem méretre vágott spatuladarabokkal. Ezután következett az asztallap - ehhez három hosszabb spatuladarabot vágtam. Extraként felső kis polccal is elláttam az íróasztalt, mert ilyet én is mindig szerettem volna :-) És persze végül az egész asztalt lefestettem. Utolsó simításként a gyufásdobozok fiókjai végére lyukat fúrtam, és két Milton-kapoccsal kialakítottam a fiókgombokat. Úgy gondoltam, ehhez a stílusú szobaberendezéshez jól jönne egy-két kis puff is.Nemrég megleptem magam egy darab Tilda-anyaggal (új mánia!!), és teljesen egyértelmű volt, hogy vagy ebből lesz a puff, vagy semmiből. Az ülőkék alapjául tejesdoboz-kupakokat gondoltam használni, így ezeket készítettem elő: Vastag kartonlapon körberajzoltam a műanyag kupakot, majd persze ki is vágtam: A kartonkörök közepét átlyukasztottam: Mindegyik kartonkörre egy-egy vattapamacsot ragasztottam. A textilből akkora darabokat vágtam, amelyek bőven túllógtak a kartonkörön - ezeket rá is helyeztem az anyagdarabokra, a vattás résszel lefelé. Az anyagszéleket felhajtottam, és szorosan összeöltögettem - így a másik oldalon egy gömbölyű pufftetőt kaptam. Ezen a ponton kapott értelmet a kartonkörbe vágott lyuk: az összevarrt hátoldalba szúrtam a tűt, és többször fel-le öltöttem a lyukon keresztül - így alakult ki a "felnőtt" puffok közepén rendszerint látható mélyedés. A kartonpapírból vágtam egy akkora csíkot, amelyik pontosan körbeérte a tejesdobozkupakot, és szélességében is éppen befedte. Ezt a papírcsíkot aztán egy, a mintás anyagból vágott hosszú darab közepére ragasztottam (papírragasztó stift ehhez tökéletes): Az alsó-felső széleket visszahajtottam, ragasztással rögzítettem. Már csak össze kellett állítani a puffot: a felső részt a kupakra ragasztottam (a nyitott oldalára), az anyaggal bevont kartoncsíkot pedig a kupak oldalára. A még puffosabb jellegért egy darabka pékzsineget is körbevezettem az ülőke oldalán. Így már el is fogadnám nagyban :-) Már csak egy kisasztalt kellett készíteni, ha már puffok vannak - ez is a spatulák segítségével készült. Az asztallap így állt össze: És egy régi, viseltes építőkockát ragasztottam az asztallap alá lábként. Már csak le kellett festenem ezt is, és az első körös bababútorok ezzel elkészültek. Azt persze nem tudom, második kör mikor lesz, de tervben van még állóóra, zongora és varrógépasztalka is - már csak az idő kellene, ami szükségeltetik mindehhez... :-)