In this post, I'll go over how to find free vintage sewing books. There are a lot of vintage and antique books that are in the public domain now.
Knit and crochet sweaters were an everyday garment for active Edwardian girls and women. Edwardian sweaters are still in style today. So knit, crochet or sew your own Edwardian sweater this winter following one of the 25 free antique Edwardian sweater patterns.
Brand: Forest Wardrobe (Retro Pin Up Dresses) Features: It features v-shaped waist with six fish-bones. Shirring and lace-up back, flounce hem. Fabric: Polyester, spandex. Attention: This price includes a SK(short / long)only, others are not included. Size Chart: Size (CM): Unit CM; Sizes below are measured in flat-laid position, hand measurement will have discrepancy of about 2 CM. If you hesitate between two sizes, please choose the larger one. Size(cm) S M L XL 2XL Waist 64-74 68-78 72-82 76-86 80-90 Long SK Length 88 89 90 91 92 Short SK Length 78 79 80 81 82
12 v. 19 cm
A blog about historical costuming and corsetry, with some unique modern high tech twists!
xii, 193 p. incl. front., illus., diagrs. 20 cm
Bake traditional Nürnberger lebkuchen. These Medieval Nürnberger lebkuchen from 1553 are spicy and simply delicious!
44 p. 28 cm
QUIZ TIME!
Basic Stitches Britannica Online Encyclopedia Dressmaking is a craft of making dresses. It is the basis and the start of the fashion world. When you make dresses, you will be called a dressmaker or historically, modiste. Learning the basics of...
Learn the Historically Proven Stitches Every Seamster Needs with Beloved Historical Fashion YouTuber Bernadette Banner Whether you are just getting started with sustainable fashion and need to alter your new secondhand finds, or you want an introduction to sewing techniques for making your own clothes, Bernadette Banner’s signature voice will guide you through all the traditional stitches and techniques you need to extend the life of your favorite pieces and take fashion into your own hands! From tips and tricks on choosing your materials and preparing your fabric for sewing to more complex techniques like mending small holes, adding pockets to garments, making your own buttons and beyond―this book has everything you need. Complete with step-by-step photos and insight into what alterations each sewing technique is best suited for, Bernadette walks you through every step of your sewing journey. For added inspiration, this book also includes profiles on exciting voices in the historic sewing community and their perspectives on how taking fashion into their own hands has changed their lives for the better. Make, Sew and Mend is the perfect foundation for beginner sewers to start making their fashion their own.
154 p. : 28 cm
I made myself a Victorian bicycle sweater out of 100 % wool knit fabric and there was enough to make a matching beret, too!
Did you know that you can make DIY candle wicks with things you already have at home? All you need is cotton string, vegetable oil and salt.
Vol. 108, no. 643 (Jan. 1884) incorrectly numbered no. 642
Rutt Manuals 5 Explore this and other items from our digitised collections on the University of Southampton Digital Library.
Victorian and Edwardian ladies followed a night-time hair routine to get beautiful, luxuriant hair and to protect their long hair at night.
I thought Spanische Windtorte would be perfect for challenge 15 – Smell, Sight, Sound, Touch of the Historical Food Fortnightly. Spanische Windtorte (spanish wind cake) is a meringue cake, filled with whipped cream and fresh strawberries. Spanische Windtorte is mentioned in the 1884 letter of Martha Bernays, Freud’s fiancée: ‘I’m going to make you what is … Continue reading Victorian Spanische Windtorte Recipe – Historical Food Fortnightly →
In this post, I'll go over how to find free vintage sewing books. There are a lot of vintage and antique books that are in the public domain now.
Home and Needlecraft magazine. Volume 15 December 1949 Number 3.Ideas for the Bazaar, the home, gifts, spare time money makers, with many articles, easy made...
27 p. : 23 cm
I don’t know about you, but I feel like I am seeing a burbling new trend in the historical costuming community. We are alllll about trends, and I see it every time a new book is published…
In this final installment of women's jewelry from the 1850's and 60's, I wanted to focus on chatelaines. Chatelaines are beautiful pieces of silver or gold that are pinned to the bodice or at the waist and have long chains with which to keep necessities. What I love about chatelaines is that one can tell
The national garment cutter book of diagrams (1888) Ladies' Street Jacket 1888
101 p. 20 1/2 x 15 1/2 cm
Continuing to explore the female figures associated with Yule. Many of these figures were suppressed or distorted during the changeover to Christmas.
30+ Homemade natural shampoo recipes - with wheat bran, salt, egg, castille soap, soda and quillaia bark - wash your hair like a Victorian lady!
History of fashion My favorites: 2010s, 2000s, 1940s, 1930s, 1960s, 1750s, 1700s, 1730s, 1660s, 1640s, 1560s, 1520s, 1480s. And yours?
Came across this cute timeline of silhouettes by decade, from the 1920s on. Posted by Dredsina on Tumblr, each style is a variation on a formal white
56 p. 28 cm
Since I declared my sewing challenge for the year, yesterday, instead of getting things done for work or chores around the house I of course researched for the upcoming sewing projects. ALL DAY LON…
110 p. incl. illus., col. plates. 35 cm
2 p.l., 117 p. 23 cm
Silver Chatelaine, 1892 Source
Gilded walnuts were popular Christmas tree ornaments in the Victorian era. Make Victorian gilded walnuts with walnuts, ribbon and gold acrylic paint.
63 p. 24 cm
Merged with Demorest's New York illustrated news to form: Demorest's illustrated monthly and Mme. Demorest's mirror of fashions
I am very happy to present as the first post on this new version of Historic Crafts the long awaited how-to on nalbinding. Nalbinding is also known as nalebinding, nailbinding, nålbinding and needlebinding and it is something that readers of Historic Crafts have shown an interest in knowing more about from the beginning. Unfortunately, I am absolutely useless at nalbinding, as I might have mentioned earlier, so I was thrilled when Ane offered me this wonderful guide for posting. Translating it from Danish has given me new hope that I might one day be able to master this craft too with some help from Ane. Ane Løser has recently begun studying at The School of the Association of Friends of Textile Art (HV School) in Stockholm, Sweden and has also begun blogging on Ane's Form (in Danish). All the images in this post are copyright of Ane Løser so please seek her permission if you wish to use them further. Let's get on with the nalbinding shall we. Take care, Eddie P.S. If you want to follow the guide on Flickr instead the images with instructions are in this set! ---- . ---- . ---- . ---- . ---- . ---- . ---- . ---- . ---- Here is a little demonstration of how to do nalbinding. There are several different techniques and I will just show one here. I will demonstrate using black wool so that everything I do stands out more on the pictures, but it is difficult to photograph as everything happens in a flow. I can also recommend checking on youtube for some good tutorial videos. Above is shown a typical nalbinding needle. In this how-to I am using one that I bought in Stockholm. It is too large and coarse and I actually prefer using an ordinary darning needle. If you feel that you can't do nalbinding without a proper nalbinding needle, you can buy one at most Viking related museums or on the Internet. Otherwise they are available at most Medieval/Viking markets. As for yarn, pure wool is absolutely the best to start with. Use plain knitting yarn to begin with and you can always experiment later with other yarn. Also small remnants are great to use for this. Pull, but do not cut a piece of yarn about 1.5 meters long. At one end you do a two half-hitch knot like above. Place it around your left thumb, with the shortest end inside the hand. At the long end sits the needle which you keep in your right hand. Now place the "knot" on the inside of your thumb. Now you have two threads above the nail. Take the needle between the two threads and let the needle tip come out as in the picture. Lift the upper loop off the finger. Take your right hand and move it anticlockwise, so the yarn twists around and you can put the needle tip down between the thread is still attached to the thumb. Now that we have done this, here is the result. Now pull the thread through and while doing so let the thread loop around your thumb under the thread already there. This means that the loop that was below before is now above and the loop that is now below is the one connected to the needle. Now we are back to square one and then we start all over again. Once we've done this a few times will have a row of stitches hanging off the back of the thumb. This is the beginning whether you want to make socks, mittens, or maybe a sweater. Constructing nalbinding items is a lot like crochet, you work around and around and when you want to make wider pieces and not just long, thin row you link the row with itself. Let's try this out! Begin by sticking your needle through the stitch closest to your thumb. Now we need to do as we did in the beginning, pretend the extra stitch on the needle doesn't exist and follow the instructions from the start. Now you will get a corner because we are working along the row of stitches. If you continue to work round and around without increasing or decreasing, you will get a flat pouch. If you for example want to make mittens or socks you will of course be compelled to increase and decrease. Both mittens and socks can be made as either toe/fingers up or cuff-down. I prefer to do toe-up. That is what I will demonstrate here, but if you prefer the other way you just need to make a long row that fits the arm or leg that can be linked as a ring instead of increasing from the tip. To increase and decrease: this is again the same as with crochet. When you increase you stick the thread through the same stitch one or more times and when you want to decrease you just miss a stitch in the previous row. When making mittens and socks it is best if you increase in the corners so that the increase sits on the inside and outside of the foot or along the first or the forth finger. Practice this before you begin making a big sweater. Remember that you should only increase and decrease a little in each round and not all in one go. Another thing I do is to make both socks or mittens at the same time. This way you can work without a pattern and still get two identical items where increase and decrease are the same on both. To extend your yarn: Take the end of the old yarn and split into two or more. Do the same to the new thread you've torn off. We need to felt the two threads together. The fibers sticks much better together when they are long. This is why we tear new yarn instead of cutting. Interlink the threads and make them wet. Now the threads are very loosely connected, but when we roll the wet thread in our hands we felt it together and the threads are now as one thread. On this picture you can see the transition between two colours where I have felted a blue thread to a brown. Here you see a heal where I have decreased. Here you see a toe where I have increased. Here is the heal from underneath. I made a tube which fits the foot until I reach the middle of the instep. Now I make a row that goes out from the rest of my tube, which is done by not connecting with the tube, but instead going back to the very first step of this how-to. When I made it long enough I connected it to itself and finally back onto the tube. Each time I go around, I decrease at the root and the top of the row sticking out. This is the end of my nalbinding guide. Please let me know if something is completely incomprehensible or if you have any problems. Nalbinding is not difficult, but you have to learn it, as with everything else. The story behind the nalbinding goes way back. Fragments of nalbound textiles have been found in Israel dating back 65000 years, but this is a story that must wait for another time. Good luck and let me know how it goes!