Fly tying video gallery tutorials for nymph patterns - step-by-step instructions on fly tying some of the best nymph flies, tying tips and techniques.
I personally have the most experience fishing with baetis nymphs on the Lower Sacramento River below Redding here in Northern California. S...
This beast is 14" long and is a combination of Black saddle patches,black microbarb saddles,Hot Orange grizzly microbarbs and black bucktail...
PATTERN DESCRIPTION: How to tie Rainy’s High-Viz Grand Hopper. Rainy’s Grand Hopper has been around for years, but the trout never seem to get tired of eating this realistic foam hoppe…
Yabbies Smelt Silver.back minnow Sculpin X Popping Minnow Popping Hopper Popping Hopper 2.0 Magichead Popper Rattling Lumino Lumino Leechy Minnow Latex n copper Latex n Copper 2.0 White Larva Larva Candy 2 Jiggling Damsel Giant Jungle Ant Cicada X 2.0 Flyline.caddis Hopper X Foam Cricket Cockcroach Chicatana Burbot Buggy Stonefly nymph Water Dragon Yusaku Crease V2.0 Articulated minnow - trout version Articulated baitfish SR Lumino SR silverside SR Taimen Streamer Popping Minnow Silverside Foam Stonefly Fish Skull baitfish Tube Foam Cricket Articulated Furry Foam Cray Franken Mouse Foxm'rabou Minnow Crayfish X Ara Fruit Pattern - specially tie for our local Red Mahseer Dragonfly Nymph ( Fishable Realistic ) Cricket V2 Hopper X ( Fishable Realistic ) Craft Fur Candy Sculpin Streamer Flat Wing Bloody Butcher Jointed Damsel Nymph ( JDN ) DHA Sedge DHA Tape Wing caddis Palm Chenille Leech Latex Abdomen Caddis Pupa Mylar Minnow - Guppy / Mosquito Fish Mylar Minnow - 'Seluang' Bait fish Mylar Minnow - Anchovies / Ikan Billis Extended Abdomen Reel Wings Mayfly Reel Wings Yellow Drake Daddy Long Legs Articulate Crayfish Olive Cray Furry Foam Crayfish Weedless J Hook Furry Foam Crayfish Snakehead Fry Tacklebox Split-tail HI Vis Hopper X Wiggling Minnow V2 DC Velvet Rope Dragonfly Nymph DC Velvet rope Caddis Pupae Buggy Dragonfly Nymph Bug Partz Nymph EA Foam Cricket Cicada X ( Fused Body version ) Mayfly Popping Frog Swimming Damsel Nymph
Item specifics Seller Notes “Fish is in the best condition, very active and healthy.the picture is just a reference and the fish ... Read more about the seller notes “Fish is in the best condition, very active and healthy.the picture is just a reference and the fish you will receive is more or less the same as in the picture. subject to availability on our stock.we have quality fish. PLEASE READ WELL ITEM DESCRIPTION FIRST BEFORE PLACE AN ORDER!* Shipment only using a TRANSHIPPER, any addtional cost need paid direct to choosed transhipper in buyer country”” Read Less about the seller notes Water Temperature Tropical Country/Region of Manufacture Indonesia
My favorite fly that I love to tie is this Clear Shrimp Fly. Many also love this fly pattern. This fly pattern imitates the Shrimps that can be found in the freshwater and saltwater that are fed by the fish. It can be tied in different hook size (from hook size 12 to size 2/0). Tying Materials • White Thread (70 denier) / Clear Monofil Thread. • Mustad C47SD Shrimp Hook (size 4). • 20-30 lb Monoline (for Shrimp eyes). • White Synthetic Fiber Standard Dubbing. • Pearl UV Tinsel. • Pearl UV Flashabou. • White Slinky Fiber. • Keough Hackle feathers – White/ Cream. • Loon UV Fly Paint – Yellow. • Bug-Bong Multipurpose UV Cure Resin – Original. Tying Steps Step 1 • Insert and secure the hook into the vise. • The hook has to be insert at the right depth into the vise. Step 2 • Wrapped the thread onto the hook. • Wrap the thread over the hook and around the shank toward the eye. Step 3 • Continue to wrap the bobbin and thread toward the rear of the hook until the thread is slightly down the bend. If you let go of the bobbin it will hang near the barb of the hook. Step 4 • Cut the monoline about 1½ to 2 inch length. • Use a lighter to melt both ends of the monoline. The length should remain about 1 inch long. Step 5 • Fold the monoline Shrimp eyes into half – like a ‘V’ shape. Step 6 • Fold both edge of the mono Shrimp eyes into half again. Now its ready to be tied onto the hook shank. Step 7 • Tie the Monoline Shrimp eyes onto the hook bend. • After wrapping the thread around the mono Shrimp eyes, wrapped the thread towards the hook eye. Step 8 • Wrap a thin layer of the White dubbing on the thread. • Wind the dubbing from the hook eye towards the mono Shrimp eyes. Step 9 • Wrapped the dubbing along the hook shank from the hook eye towards the mono Shrimp eyes. • Slowly build the Shrimp body (from thin to thick). Next we will be using a little of the Loon UV Fly Paint. Step 10 • Turn the vise to turn the Shrimp upwards. • Squeeze 1-2 drops of the UV Fly Paint onto the Shrimp abdomen (below the Shrimp’s eyes). • This creates the egg sack in the Shrimp fly. Step 11 • Use the UV torchlight to dry the UV Fly paint. • It takes just a few seconds to dry. Step 12 • Once the UV paint dried, turn the vise back to the original position. Step 13 • Cut a pinch of the White Slinky Fiber. • Tie the White Slinky Fiber onto the hook bend. • This Slinky Fiber imitates the Shrimp's walking legs and claws. Step 14 • Take 1 strand of the Pearl UV Tinsel and cut into 4 strands. • Tie the Tinsels onto the Slinky Fiber. • The Tinsels imitate the Shrimp’s antennas. Step 15 • Cut a few strands of the Pearl Flashabou. • Tie the Flashabou onto the Tinsels. • The Flashabou imitates the Shrimp's rostrum and also gives glitter to the Shrimp's body. Step 16 • Take 1 strand of Keough Hackle feather. • Tie the feather behind the Slinky Fiber. Step 17 • The Hackle is palmered towards the hook eye and secured. • Cut away the remaindered hackle. Step 18 • Wrapped the bobbin thread over the hackle towards the Shrimp’s eyes. This will secured the hackle. • The hackle imitates the Shrimp's walking and swimming legs. Step 19 • Used the thread to tie the Slinky Fiber, Tinsels and Flashabou onto the hook shank, and at the same time tying the abdomen segments of the Shrimp fly towards the hook eye. Step 20 • At the hook eye whipped finish and knot the thread. • Trim the tail of the Shrimp and also the hackles poking out on both side of the Shrimp’s body. Step 21 • Before building the Shrimp’s body and head, loosen the hook grip on the vise and tilt the Shrimp fly (where the tail bends down a little). Now use the Bug-Bond Multipurpose UV Cure Resin to finish up the Shrimp fly. This is to build the Shrimp's body and head. It works like epoxy, but it dries faster and does not turn yellowish after using the fly for fishing, or being kept too long in the fly box, or under the sun. Step 22 • Lightly squeeze a little of the BB UV Cure Resin to shaped the Shrimp’s body and head. • Do it slowly and part-by-part. Step 23 • Use the UV Flashlight to dry the UV Cure Resin after shaping the Shrimp fly. Then the Shrimp fly is done. Now the Shrimp fly is done and ready for you to take and go for fishing! This Shrimp Fly is created and tied to imitate the real Shrimps that can be found in the river, lakes, and sea.
Thread: UTC140 Front Hook: Daiichi 2220, size 6 Trailer Hook: Daiichi 2553, size 6 Bead: 6mm Chaser Tail: Marabou Flash: Magnum Holographic Flashabou Body: Schlappen Head1: Senyo Laser Dub Head2: UV Ice Dub STEP 1: Place the size 6 Daiichi 2220 firmly in the vise, then get your thread started and wrap back to the rear tie in point. STEP 2: Prep the step by utilizing a loop to loop connection to attach the Daiichi 2553 stinger hook to a length 25lb braided Fireline, you will at this point also want to slide the 6mm chaser bead on to the line. To attach the trailer hook use tight wraps forward to the eye then back to the rear tie in point, securely binding the doubled over Fireline to the hook shank. If tied under maximum thread tension there is no need to use adhesives as there is no way this will pull out. It should extend off the back resulting in a total fly length of approximately four inches. STEP 3: Choose a marabou feather that does not have a prominent center stem then tie it in off the rear of the hook, with the tips tapering out about at the placement of the bead. When tying in the feather allow it to spin a bit about the hook shank, thereby ensuring coverage around the entire shank. Tie the marabou down covering about three quarters of the hook shank, doing so will provide protection for the stem of the schlappen in the next step thereby alleviating the need to dub a body or wrap cactus chenille. STEP 4: Carefully prepare a schlappen feather by holding it by the tip and stroking the fibers down to provide a tie in point on the stem. Securely attach the feather and wrap your thread forward, then palmer the feather forward approximately three quarters of the hook shank. When palmering the feather forward be careful not to trap fibers against the hook shank. STEP 5: The most obvious flash component on this fly is the Magnum Holographic Flashabou. Tie in four to five strands extending back to about where the bead is. Make sure to taper them a bit at the rear of the fly so there is not a 'hard edge' where the Flashabou ends. Personally I like to tie in two pieces by the middle and fold it back over itself so that the flash will not pull out. The Magnum Flashabou is twice as thick as the standard variety and seems to be more stiff out of the water. In the water the Magum Flashabou swims and dances in the current similarly to the marabou, but it is less prone to wrapping around the other materials and fouling the fly. STEP 6: The head of this fly is comprised primarily of Senyo Laser Dub. Pull out a chunk of Laser Dub and prepare it by separating and stacking it in your fingers, similar to the Farrar Blending method, to align the fibers in one direction. Once prepped you will slide the chunk of Laser Dub over the eye of the hook and give a few tight wraps in the middle of the material, then fold it back over itself and give a few tight wraps around the shank at the base of the material. This will make for a nice bulky head that will push around a lot of water. STEP 7: The last material to be added is the second element of flash, UV Ice Dub. The UV Ice Dub adds a bit of flash around the head of the fly and, depending on what your convictions are about fish and the UV light spectrum, may actually make the fly more visible and attractive to fish! To tie it in I take a small clump and center tie it in, as I did the Laser Dub, then fold it back over itself so that it flows back around the whole front of the head. Hold the head back out of the way, whip finish, and you are all set to hit the water. If you would like to make the fly a true stinger fly then you can carefully clip the Daiichi 2220 just before the bend and then hit the raw edge with a few rubs of sandpaper to make sure there are no burrs that could knick the Fireline. Unless I am fishing regulated water requiring only one hook I generally leave both hooks on this pattern for my personal use. Due both to the length as well as the bulk of the head, the GHB (Gotta Hot Butt) is most effective as a pattern when it swung in high and off color water. When the water flows around the bulky head of this fly it causes a lot of motion in the rear of the fly as it swings through the water column. The marabou and Flashabou will wiggle around and the bead will practically dance, truly becoming an additional trigger point for any steelhead looking for a meal. Using the loop to loop connection for the stinger hook means that you can change the hook out to utilize a standard finish hook or to change the hook size as you deem necessary. Additionally it means you can also change the bead color to better match the water clarity and conditions. To order this pattern or my other patterns, or if you have any questions about the pattern that were not addressed, please visit http://www.anglerschoiceflies.com/, or find me at Anglers Choice Flies on Facebook.
There is no doubt that the selection of fly tying materials available today is immense. Every week a new synthetic material seems to appear which apparently has properties better than the last iter…
Ever been in the middle of a Caddis hatch. You know the one where the tan and brown adults are dancing all over the surface. So many that it is hard to understand why your perfectly tied #14 Elk Hair or Henryville isn't getting the time of day from the fish. Next time it happens look very carefully into the surface film. The Little Black Caddis makes no commotion as it sits on the surface laying its eggs. The trout seem to be lazily sipping while hundreds of the little ones brethren dancing all around. I am a firm believer that trout eat what tastes best at that moment. If you are given a choice you will eat the one that tastes best as well. Have a few of these tied in sizes 16 and 18 in the box and look to see what might be hidden. Click on the photo for the tying video
A blog focused on all things fly tying, from materials, methods, techniques, tutorials and reviews to just cool patterns
the aptly named giant mayfly
Carp are a blast on the fly. Here's a collection of 19 of the most effective carp flies to help you hook into a big one.
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I first made this fly as a dragon fly nymph for the local stillwaters, but its also proved to be very effective as a juvenile crayfish pattern. It gives a very impressionistic profile of several cr…
I first made this fly as a dragon fly nymph for the local stillwaters, but its also proved to be very effective as a juvenile crayfish pattern. It gives a very impressionistic profile of several cr…
SnowRunner Silverside Some times ago I did a point up silverside in synthetic material, but this round I’m doing it in natural, with the fibers from SnowRunner ( Nayat ) Silverside in synthetic material Materials: SnowRunner Marker Epoxy eye Leadwire Mylar tubing Saltwater hook Lateral flash Semperfli dubbing Picture step by step tying instruction: […]
@williamensiferum William Ensiferum
[img] Egg-laying caddis imitation from Vince Wilcox. Tied here as a hydropsyche; change colors/size to suit your needs. hook -Dai Riki 280 #16...
