A Guide for those of you that want to learn how to make shoes and study shoemaking. Find out which are the Best Shoe Schools & Courses.
Since we launched our online course on home shoemaking we have received lots of great questions about sewing machines. In this post we hope to put to rest some of your questions and point you in the right direction so that you can start your shoemaking journey from home. DO YOU NEED A SEWING MACHINE TO MAKE SHOES? Mostly yes, but sometimes no. Most of the stitching on shoe uppers is serving one or some of the following purposes: -Attaching the lining to the upper material-Attaching 1 panel to another-Attaching a decorative trimming/embellishment-Adding strength to certain areas All of this stitching could technically be done by hand but you’ll find that it will be tricky to stitch through such thick materials and make it look neat...not to mention it would take a verrrrrry very long time. For these reasons using a sewing machine is going to make things much easier. You can get away with not using a sewing machine if you plan to make a simple pair of sandals. We often use a thick unlined leather for some of our sandal straps, and occasionally will use a rivet to attach a buckle - all without the use of a sewing machine. (No sewing here! That stitched edge is actually a pre-stitched trimming called ‘randing’ - read on to find out more...) ARE SEWING MACHINES DIFFICULT TO USE? Sewing machines do not need to be scary! Most sewing machines will come with a user friendly manual or DVD to help teach you from scratch (if you buy one secondhand you should be able to find a free manual for your model by searching online). A lot of the conventional sewing machines will also come with lots of user friendly features such as a needle threader, speed adjustment etc. We only use straight stitch with the I Can Make Shoes techniques so there is no need to master all of the other stitch features to make shoes from home. The trickiest part of sewing shoe uppers is sewing tight curves but remember that practise makes perfect. We suggest drawing some curved lines on some scrap materials to stitch over, so that you can build up your confidence first. *Top tip: If you are struggling to remember what all the knobs and dials on your machine do, attach some sticky notes to your sewing machine for guidance. Your sewing machine manual will tell you how everything works and there should be a troubleshooting section for any issues you might come across. For example: Tension dial - Bobbin thread coming through to the right side, loosen tension (lower number) etc. WHAT IS A POST BED SEWING MACHINE? Traditionally many shoe uppers are stitched on what is called a ‘post bed sewing machine’. As the name suggests this is where you stitch on top of a post as opposed to a flat surface (search ‘post bed sewing machine’ on google images to get a better idea). As you start stitching together a shoe upper it will take on the shape of a shoe, and this can make it tricky to access/stitch certain areas of the upper on a flat bed machine (particularly with boots). However, post bed sewing machines are normally very expensive (£1500+ new), take up a lot of room and are tricky to get hold of so we teach all of our techniques on a standard flat bed sewing machine - boots included! *If you plan to make a career of repairing shoes you will need a post bed sewing machine so that you can access certain areas of the shoe once their soles/heels are attached. SO, WHAT SEWING MACHINE DO I NEED TO MAKE SHOES? Most domestic sewing machines will have no issue stitching through the thicker materials/leather required for making shoe uppers, you do not need a shoe/leather specific sewing machine. We recommend choosing a machine that can stitch through thick denim or upholstery fabric as normally these machines have a bit more power to get through thicker materials. You are also less likely to have tension issues and skipped stitches. You do not need a heavy duty machine but a sewing machine with a heavy body or metal casing often means it will be stronger. If you already own a sewing machine, test out its capabilities by stitching through some thick scrap materials/leathers. Judge the thickness of some of the shoes you have at home to give you an idea of the thickness you’ll need to stitch through. Read on to see our top tips for sewing leather. In our shoemaking workshops we use a ‘Janome HD9 Professional’ sewing machine. This is a heavy duty machine and at £1000 is not cheap, but as we use it nearly every day it is a great investment for us. If you plan to make a career of shoemaking this is a great machine to have. Our previous model was the ‘Janome 1600P’ which again had no problem stitching through thick materials and leather. Another great sewing machine is the ‘Singer 4423 Heavy Duty Sewing Machine’. Priced at around £350 this is a touch more affordable and also has a range of different stitches that can be used for other craft/sewing projects. Try out www.tysew.co.uk and John Lewis for more sewing machines. Both companies have extensive ranges of sewing machines available and viewable reviews to compare models. Sewing only makes up around 10% of the shoemaking process so it may be worth asking to borrow a sewing machine from a friend if you are looking to keep costs down or want to try it out before investing. WHAT ABOUT STITCHING ON THE SOLES? Most soles are glued on so you wont need a machine for this. We sometimes glue on a pre-stitched decorative trimming on the edge of soles called ‘randing’ (shown in the sandal image above). Randing gives the illusion of what is called a welted construction but most shoes with sole stitching will be made using randing instead. We attach sneaker/trainer soles with a ‘speedy stitcher’ hand tool and have a full tutorial on how this is done within our online course. ANY OTHER TIPS / WHAT ELSE DO I NEED WITH A SEWING MACHINE? We use denim/jeans needles with our sewing machines as they are strong and sharp and don’t leave large holes in the leather like some leather needles do. You will need polyester/nylon thread for stitching shoe uppers as it is strong and unlikely to break. We like to use ‘Gutterman Mara’ sewing thread (in thickness 50 or 70). If you are not sure if your thread is strong enough, see if you can break a strand between your hands - if it breaks it’s not strong enough. We use a standard sewing machine foot for most of the stitching but having a zipper foot on hand is great for adding zips or decorative piping, so that you can get a close and neat finish. A zipper foot is also great if you are stitching tight curves and are struggling to see how close you are to your reference point. Some machines have what is called a ‘walking foot’ and this also works great. If you plan to stitch with patent leather/vinyl or any other materials that have a tendency to get sticky: smearing a little bit of moisturiser along the area you’ll be stitching will help the sewing machine feed through the material and not get stuck. If you have any other questions or queries regarding sewing footwear, any of our courses, or have any great tips or machine recommendations to share then please get in touch at [email protected] learn shoemaking for yourself I created a free 40-minute online course called 'Introduction to Shoemaking' to show how easy home shoemaking can be and to give you a little taste of what I Can Make Shoes is all about. SIGN UP HERE for instant access. If you are wanting to dive a little deeper into the world of home shoemaking, my online Footwear Masterclass is one of the most popular shoemaking courses in the world!! 🌍 (Casual brag! lol) The course covers how to make shoes from scratch including heels, flats, boots, sneakers, sandals, and more. The thing that really sets this course apart from others is that it's specifically designed for total beginners and requires very little in the way of tools & equipment, there's even a bonus module on how to start your own shoe brand. To make getting started even easier, the course comes with a FREE Shoemaking Starter Kit, delivered to your door, anywhere in the world! 🌍 We are a tight community and regularly limit our intake to ensure the best experience for our students - so if our enrolment is closed I would recommend you sign up for our FREE Introduction to Shoemaking course while you wait. Happy Shoemaking Amanda xx Pssssssst.... If you want to have a look at the shoes our students have been making, give us a follow on Instagram.
the exhibition is a collection of several sculptural footwear pieces crafted by a trained architect.
I made my own Victorian-inspired Chelsea boots! In this article I explain the process, from the patterning the the final details!
You’re totally timeless in these sleek, classic ballet flats from Vagabond Shoemakers. Features: Slip-on style, leather uppers, slightly squared-off toe, seamed detail, bow accent with metal tips, flat sole, mini heel Why We <3 It: Perfectly pairs with your sophisticated pieces for a put-together look. Import
The shoes are just as important as the dress right? Right. This pair was extra special because they belong to one of our team members, Kate who wore them to her wedding last week. Kate had a specific design in mind and we were all so happy with how they turned out. I love how these turned out and it's safe to say that Kate looked stunning in her handmade wedding dress and shoes. Here's what she had to say about them: 'I wore the shoes for the whole day and they were so comfy. They went so well with my dress and I love them!
Since we are on the subject of Bemer's (as per yesterday's post), I thought that I would continue on by finally getting up the pictures of the new Stefano Bemer workshop/company from my visit to
Vagabond Shoemakers Brooke is a modern chunky boot crafted in a leather/stretch synthetic combination material. The mid-rise style sets on a solid platform sole with a block heel. Details include square toes and inside zippers. Features - Chunky boots from Vagabond Shoemakers - Platform sole with block heel - Zip closure Content + Care - Leather, synthetic (60% polyurethane, 35% polyester), textile, TR - Spot clean - Imported Size + Fit - Runs small, order a size up for a comfortable fit - Heel: 3.425"h - Shaft: 9.25"h - Shaft circumference: 10" Based on the west coast of Sweden, Vagabond Shoemakers re-works classic Scandinavian styles with modern, harmonious shapes for shoes, boots and bags you'll want to wear every day.
Shoemaking eBook Sneak Peek - My upcoming Shoemaking eBook will include bespoke shoemaking techniques, pattern making, lasting, tools needed
Details & care Twin buckle straps add a sophisticated flourish to a square-toe pump set on a bold block heel. 2 1/4" heel Adjustable straps with buckle closures Leather upper and lining/synthetic sole Imported Item #10261876 Helpful info: Fit guides
Here’s how I turned this IKEA SANELA cushion cover (Modeled on my Made.com Yoko sofa) into a summer ready pair of pale blue chunky heeled pumps. This project was super fun to say the least and has me wanting to cut up every cushion in my house. First I sacrificed a cushion! I originally had two of these but I promised my friend Georgie she could have one and I knew I only needed one to make a pair of shoes. (besides I had already bought two new covers from my travels in Chaing Mai over Christmas). Next I made a pattern using my favourite pair of pointy lasts and cut out the pieces. I was careful to make sure I had enough left over for covering my heels and insole socks. I then followed the standard I CAN MAKE SHOES technique to make the shoes. We usually use leather for these steps, but this is a prime example of how you can make shoes using anything you’ve got laying around. And Viola! Now I just need a dress to wear them with…. For full instructions on how to make shoes like these from home, here is a link to our online course ‘How to make High Heels'. learn shoemaking for yourself I created a free 40-minute online course called 'Introduction to Shoemaking' to show how easy home shoemaking can be and to give you a little taste of what I Can Make Shoes is all about. SIGN UP HERE for instant access. If you are wanting to dive a little deeper into the world of home shoemaking, my online Footwear Masterclass is one of the most popular shoemaking courses in the world!! 🌍 (Casual brag! lol) The course covers how to make shoes from scratch including heels, flats, boots, sneakers, sandals, and more. The thing that really sets this course apart from others is that it's specifically designed for total beginners and requires very little in the way of tools & equipment, there's even a bonus module on how to start your own shoe brand. To make getting started even easier, the course comes with a FREE Shoemaking Starter Kit, delivered to your door, anywhere in the world! 🌍 We are a tight community and regularly limit our intake to ensure the best experience for our students - so if our enrolment is closed I would recommend you sign up for our FREE Introduction to Shoemaking course while you wait. Happy Shoemaking, Amanda xx Pssssssst.... If you want to have a look at the shoes our students have been making, give us a follow on Instagram.
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Welcome back fellow shoemakers of the world. Another exciting week in shoeland. We saw one of our old interns and fellow shoe freaks this week who br…
Suede low heel ballet flats. Ebony color Elastic tightening Heel height: 4.8cm You will need to put a permanent pad on the front of your shoes at the shoemaker before wearing them Made in Italy
Making shoes is such a fun and rewarding DIY project, whether you're looking to create a unique pair of shoes for yourself or start your own shoe-making business. While making shoes and boots requires a few basic hand tools and materials, it’s much easier than you’d first think and definitely something that anyone can learn from home, with a little practice and patience! No matter the style; whether it’s a pair of sandals, boots, or anything in between, there’s a simple formula involved in making a pair of shoes from scratch which I thought I’d share with you… 1. Lasts Before making any style of shoe, you’ll first need a pair of shoemaking lasts. These are moulds or forms which we use to make shoes on (the shoemaker’s equivalent of a dressmaker’s mannequin). The use of lasts is a critical part of the shoemaking process because they help ensure that the shoe fits correctly and is comfortable to wear. The last determines the shape and size of the shoe, as well as the length, width, and height of the heel. 2. Uppers Shoemaking uppers are the part of a shoe that covers the top and sides of the foot. They are typically made from leather or other materials that have been stitched or glued together The design of shoemaking uppers can vary widely depending on the desired style and function of the shoe. Some shoe styles require fairly straightforward designs (such as sandals and slippers) whereas others may require more complex uppers with intricate designs e.g. boots. The choice of materials can also have a significant impact on the look and feel of the shoe, with leather being a popular choice for its durability, flexibility, and aesthetic appeal. Once wrapped around the last, the uppers are then attached to the insole board. 3. Insoles Depending on the type of shoe you’re making, you may have flat insole, a mid-height insole, or a high-heel insole. It doesn’t matter what kind of insole board you have, as long as it matches the pitch of your last. (The pitch of a shoe refers to the angle between the heel and the sole of the shoe). The insoles serve as the innermost layer of the shoe that comes into direct contact with the foot. At this part of the shoemaking process, you will want to make sure that the insoles are covered in your material of choice. 4. Stiffeners We use two main types of stiffeners in shoemaking, the first being ‘toe puffs’ which helps reinforce the shape of the toe box area of the shoe, particularly for shoes that have a pointed or curved toe. The second being ‘counter stiffeners’ which provide structure and support to the back part of the shoe, particularly for shoes that have a closed back or high heels. Counter stiffeners also provide additional support to the foot. If you’re making a strappy sandal or an open-toed shoe, more often than not, you just won’t need a pair of stiffeners at all. 5. Soles The sole is pretty self-explanatory, it’s what goes on the bottom of the shoe and hits the ground when you walk. Before attaching a sole, you’ll need to make sure that you have a nice flat surface on the base of your shoes for the sole to stick to. You can do this by cutting down the leather on the base using scissors or a very handy tool called a ‘safety beveller’ (this can be found in our shoemaker’s tool kit). There are a few different materials you could use for the soles but we typically use resin soling as it’s easy to cut and sand to achieve a smooth finish. Soles are attached to the bottom of shoes using solvent-based shoemaking glue. Soles can vary in thickness and shape, depending on the specific style and intended function of the shoe. For example, athletic shoes often have thick, cushioned soles to provide shock absorption and support during physical activity, while dress shoes may have thin, leather soles for a sleek, polished look. If you’re making a pair of flat shoes, you may want to build up a little heel tip, just go give a little bit of lift off the ground 6. Heels Unless you are making a pair of flat shoes, at this point, you’ll need to attach a pair of heels. The heel is typically made of a sturdy, durable material such as plastic or wood. Heels help to distribute weight evenly across the foot and promote proper posture and alignment. They can also play an important aesthetic role, adding height and creating a more flattering silhouette for the wearer. Some heels may be ready to attach straight to the shoe whereas others may need covering in your material of choice before attaching. The heel gets drilled in through the pre-covered insole board and that’s what attaches it to the main body of the shoe. Most heels come with a heel tip, which must be attached at this stage. 7. Insole sock The insole sock or ‘insock’ is an additional layer of material that is added to the insole of the shoe, covering up any screw holes that we may have from drilling in the heels. Insocks also provide additional cushioning and support to the foot, and can also help to improve the fit and comfort of the shoe. You can download our free PDF insole sock pattern here. And that’s it! Each and every type of shoe has a lot more steps to it but they are all made up of the same core instructions and that is how you make a shoe! learn shoemaking for yourself I created a free 40-minute online course called 'Introduction to Shoemaking' to show how easy home shoemaking can be and to give you a little taste of what I Can Make Shoes is all about. SIGN UP HERE for instant access. If you are wanting to dive a little deeper into the world of home shoemaking, my online Footwear Masterclass is one of the most popular shoemaking courses in the world!! 🌍 (Casual brag! lol) The course covers how to make shoes from scratch including heels, flats, boots, sneakers, sandals, and more. The thing that really sets this course apart from others is that it's specifically designed for total beginners and requires very little in the way of tools & equipment, there's even a bonus module on how to start your own shoe brand. To make getting started even easier, the course comes with a FREE Shoemaking Starter Kit, delivered to your door, anywhere in the world! 🌍 We are a tight community and regularly limit our intake to ensure the best experience for our students - so if our enrolment is closed I would recommend you sign up for our FREE Introduction to Shoemaking course while you wait. Happy Shoemaking, Amanda xx Pssssssst.... If you want to have a look at the shoes our students have been making, give us a follow on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/icanmake_shoes/
tom lander glamorous winter - The Tom Lander 'Glamorous Winter' spread for Dazed Magazine features Victorian-inspired winter looks including funky headgear, puffy coats and face...
Styled from head to toe
