A Chemise, or Shift, Under All Layers Layers, layers, layers. . .That’s what it takes to interpret the clothing of the working class. . .While I am not a stickler to 100% authenticity, there are certain guidelines that should be addressed if a person wishes to display a visual language to the 18th century onlookers. . .It is a facet of interpreting any century that will be much appreciated by those who want to see history come alive. For years I visited Colonial Williamsburg, knowing that what I saw there. . .be it clothing. . .wares. . .or buildings. . .I could depend on the fact that it was as authentic as possible in our era of time. . . Then a dream came true and I found myself employed there. My greatest joy was being able to dress in authentic reproductions of 18th century English colony clothing. I appreciated even more the hard work that the Costume Design Center went to in order to provide period clothing that was as accurate as possible and still be worn each day by the interpreters. Their standards of appearance were well set. Many did not like having to measure up to those standards each day, but I knew that when I was a visitor, it made all the difference. “Visitors to Colonial Williamsburg receive a lasting and important visual image of life in Colonial America from the clothing worn by our employees. Costumes represent period clothing. When worn correctly, the costume is an important interpretive tool helping to convey an accurate picture of the eighteenth century. Therefore, employees must pay particular attention to the regulations concerning the proper way to appear in costume before the public.” Standards of Appearance, Costume Design Center While I worked in the Mary Dickinson shop (based on that of a milliner’s establishment) I learned a few of the ways that research was done on the period clothing. Art of the 18th century played a huge part in their decisions. What better way than studying the paintings and prints of the 18th century to base a costume on? It’s true that they didn’t get it totally right in the beginning, when there wasn’t enough time to do extensive research, but throughout the years, better choices have been made. The research is on-going to this day. As more is learned, changes are made. So when I decided to study and make period clothing that might have been worn in New France, I began looking at French art and sketches of the people who worked and lived here. There isn’t a lot to go on, so it has taken much time with only a little insight. I have found some striking lap-overs between the French and English dress, but there seems to be a few distinctions, too. The English working class stuck closer to subdued colors, often weaving and dying their own cloth. While the higher class of the British colonies did wear fine silks that were bright and exciting, the common woman rarely had this choice. On the other hand, the French loved color in bright prints and stripes in every class, often combining different prints together. The ladies of New France were not allowed to weave their own cloth. It had to come from the King’s storehouses, thus offering a better fabric from many parts of the world to the working woman. Blues, yellow or golds, reds seem to be popular and suitable for short gowns, jackets and petticoats. Older women wore more subdued colors but the prints available for them were in the same style. Stripes, in a ticking type of weave, were also popular paired with the prints. Petticoats (skirts) were shorter than the English and shoes were often Indian moccasins instead of stiff leather shoes. Aprons might be of white muslin but more often than not, they were of checks or stripes in various colors. Under it all, the chemise (shift as the English call it) was worn. The French corset was the same as the English stays, just a different word. A cap might be worn on her head, but often a blue (most popular) scarf was tied over the hair bandana style. I have noticed that in some sketches, when a cap is worn, a ribbon of blue (most popular) might be tied around it. Nothing that I have found about their clothing is the least bit somber. I’ve included a few of the sketches that I found for a visual view of the French clothing probably suitable as period clothing of those living west of the Mississippi River in the 18th century. The people of New France enjoyed Life and they let their clothing speak of their happy-go-lucky attitude with their clothing. . .just as interpreters of the time period will hopefully do in this present day. source unknown/pinterest
There are few women in this world who can resist the charm of flowers. Flowers have always been a symbol of beauty, and women, irrespective of age or origin are enraptured by their very presence. As you know, I'm constantly instagramming the latest peony in bloom. It's difficult to verbalise why I find so much joy in gazing at pretty blossoms - but I don't think I'm alone in that!
I've been binging Outlander whilst making 18th Century stays and talking to several long-standing costumers on the 18th Century Sewing page on Facebook (who are knowledgeable in this period). Most of my acumen has been the 16th Century and Victorian, so dipping my creative brush into the 18th Century has been an exciting endeavor, as it is actually my favorite era, aside from bustle dresses! *swoon* One of the things I recently learned, as I am planning my OWN 18th Century ensemble - A caraco a la Pierrot and petticoat styled like the picture to the left - is that prints were pricey and more than likely not available to the poorer or working classes. But unlike the 16th Century where the most expensive fabrics were often reserved for sleeves and foreparts and worn under the over skirt, for the 18th Century these pricey chintz prints were worn predominantly as outer garments rather than petticoats and such. Good thing I learned that, because I was mulling over making a print petticoat to go with a solid bodice/jacket! Since the the first season of Outlander, the working class worn by Clair when she first arrived in 1743 Scotland, have become popular. Of course, wool - especially authentic Scottish tartan - is very expensive and can run upwards to $70 or $90 a yard/meter! Crikey! I did find a nice Donegal tweed for $35 a yard, and I am using it for a client's "Lady Broch Turach" ensemble in the coming weeks. If you're concerned with historical accuracy, and your character is part of the working class, you can never go wrong with Linen! But if you're wanting something for the upper middling/merchant or upper class, a polished cotton chintz is a more affordable option as silk brocades will be much more expensive. SAMPLE OF 18TH CENTURY PRINTS: The following examples of print motifs will assist those who wish their fabric to be as Historically Accurate as possible in 21st Century fabrics. Examine the type of prints for each decade and you can find something similar. 1790s Caraco a la Pierrot A nice quality polished cotton chintz can run about $20 + a yard, so those who might not be able to afford 10 to 12 yards, can pair a print Caraco or a Pierrot jacket with a linen or lightweight wool in a solid color. Quilted petticoats were also in vogue. This is a bustled 18th Century Polanaise gown worn over a quilted petticoat, but they were also worn with Caraco Jackets. The caraco and the Pierrot jacket (Pierrot Jackets were predominantly popular 1785 to 1790s) were worn by all different classes. In the 1770s, Dutch Fashion finds the use of mixed prints in vogue. They would mix up to three different prints for the jacket, petticoat, and apron. While you can find this trend in other countries, it was more prevalent in Holland, as that was where many of these cotton chintz prints were produced. COLOR MATCHING: One of the questions I faced whilst planning my ensemble was color palate. As a designer, I'm accustomed to using a color wheel to pair up different colors, rather than using the main color in your fabric and "matching" it with a solid skirt in that same hue. Instead of "matchy-matchy" stretch a little out of your comfort zone and get creative! Pull a secondary color out of your fabric and use that instead. Here are some color combinations to play with! I found this trapunto (Italian for quilted) fabric at JoAnns Fabrics in the home decor section. It makes a great quilted petticoat. I also have this rustic cotton weave. I love it. Pink is one of my long standing favorites, second only to purple. My plan is to make a Caraco jacket out of the pink and cream fabric, but what color do I make the linen skirt? - - I decided on a light aqua blue: https://www.fabric.com/buy/0403740/kaufman-essex-linen-blend-willow I purchased this gorgeous chintz on Ebay (below). I snagged the last two yards, but it is 54 inches wide so that is more than enough for the swallow-tail Pierrot I plan to make. The color most might be tempted to pick would be lilac, but the pale aqua blue above is the color I'm choosing. That way, I can mix and match it with the pink and ivory jacket, as well as pair the chintz with the ivory quilted cream petticoat. Have fun with your fabric and color choices. Pair Stripes with floral prints! A striped petticoat with a floral chintz is a nice look. But don't be afraid of color! Bright colors were common during this time period. Example: Pair a red and white print with a bright apple green! There are plenty of ideas to draw from on Pinterest.
Step back in time and experience the elegance of the 18th century with our LOUISE, 18th-Century Dress in Ocean Blue Linen. This breathtakingly beautiful historical garment is a faithful reproduction of the "English dress" popularly worn in Western Europe and America from 1770-1785. Crafted from high-quality ocean blue linen, this one-piece dress is a testament to the timeless allure of historical fashion. Our LOUISE, 18th-Century Dress Ocean Blue is designed with meticulous attention to detail, featuring eyelets on both sides of the front opening to ensure a perfect fit. The large skirt, a prominent feature of 18th-century fashion, is pleated in the same manner as it was in the era, measuring 37.5 inches (95 cm) long. The ocean blue color not only captures the aesthetic of the period but also adds a modern touch, making this dress perfect for historical reenactments, themed parties, or simply to satiate your love for vintage fashion. This dress is not just a product; it's a meticulously handcrafted piece of history. The quality of the linen used, the thoughtful design, and the skilled craftsmanship that goes into each dress reflects the authenticity and creativity that Atelier Serraspina stands for. With the LOUISE, 18th-Century Dress in Ocean Blue Linen, you're not just wearing a dress; you're wearing a piece of history, lovingly recreated for the modern woman. ☆ FABRICS ☆ LOUISE is made of prewashed medium-weight linen (205gr/m), in a range of colors matching Atelier Serraspina's color palette. — Outer Fabric — · 100% European linen · Medium weight linen - 6.05 oz/yd² / 205 g/m² · Prewashed so it didn't shrink anymore · Mechanically softened so it is very soft and especially pleasant for your skin · Fabric woven according to universally accepted quality requirements which correspond to OEKO-TEX 100 standards — Bodice Lining — · Composition: 100% Cotton · Type of fabric: Raw Cotton · Approximate weight: 155 gr/m² — Sleeve Lining: — · Composition: 100% Cotton · Type of fabric: Poplin · Approximate weight: 110 gr/m² ☆ SIZING ☆ — Finding the Right Size: --- Please refer to the size chart in the photos gallery to select the correct size for your dress. Keep in mind that historical costumes don't follow standard sizing, so getting an accurate fit is important for comfort and effectiveness. — Custom Sizing:---- If your measurements don't align perfectly with the sizes on the chart, we recommend choosing the "custom size" option. Please submit your measurements in the customization field when placing your order. — Important Note: … Made-to-order items cannot be returned. Please make sure you're certain about the size you choose. If unsure, opt for the custom fit option. ☆ CARE INSTRUCTIONS ☆ To care for your costume, we recommend dry cleaning only, ensuring your costume remains in pristine condition for all your historical adventures. ☆ HOW TO DRESS ☆ · After putting on your historical underwear, step into the dress by sliding it over your head. · Allow the back of the dress to hang behind you, and position the front panel against your abdomen (ensuring the waistband covers the lower ribs). · Secure the front panel around your waist with the cotton ties. · Finally, put your arms through the sleeves and arrange the train folds. · To finish, thread the cord through the eyelets from bottom to top and conceal the knot in the neckline. ☆ PROCESSING TIMES ☆ All our garments, including the LOUISE dresses, are handmade in our workshop in Spain. Each piece is crafted with love and care, using the finest materials to ensure excellent quality. These garments are meant to be cherished for years to come. Please note that our items are meticulously handmade, which means it will take some time for us to create them. The typical production time for a LOUISE dress ranges from 6-8 weeks, depending on the current order volume. Keep in mind that the processing time does not include shipping.
Please note that most of the dresses presented here in our Etsy store are just examples of our old work for clients. These are not ready made dresses for sale. We realize only customized dresses and we DON'T HAVE SHORT DEADLINES. Therefore, before you make a purchase, please ask us for details in a private message. If you make a purchase without reading this description - we do not accept cancellation of the transaction. We do not accept returns and resignations from an already ordered dress during sewing or after sending it (does not apply to tailoring corrections), because our dresses are made to measure and based on a design that is created individually for each customer. By clicking "buy it now" - you accept our terms. We accept payment plans discussed individually with each client. We are small fashion house Atelier Saint-Honore and we make all designs individually for each clients. All dresses are sewn for measures. We use traditional haute couture techniques like fine hand made finishes, hand made embroidery and artistique techniques of decorations. We offer the highest quality custom service and the best materials. Please ask in private for more details.
18thcenturyfop: Nicolas de Largillière, Portrait d’un jeune Noble. Detail. c.1730 (via adonis-seralis-nors-blog)
Please note that most of the dresses presented here in our Etsy store are just examples of our old work for clients. These are not ready made dresses for sale. We realize only customized dresses and we DON'T HAVE SHORT DEADLINES. Therefore, before you make a purchase, please ask us for details in a private message. If you make a purchase without reading this description - we do not accept cancellation of the transaction. We do not accept returns and resignations from an already ordered dress during sewing or after sending it (does not apply to tailoring corrections), because our dresses are made to measure and based on a design that is created individually for each customer. By clicking "buy it now" - you accept our terms. We accept payment plans discussed individually with each client. We are small fashion house Atelier Saint-Honore and we make all designs individually for each clients. All dresses are sewn for measures. We use traditional haute couture techniques like fine hand made finishes, hand made embroidery and artistique techniques of decorations. We offer the highest quality custom service and the best materials. Please ask in private for more details.
Her are the photos of my recently finished Maid Costume. I’m wearing: The Yellow Caraco jacket (part 1 & part 2), brown short skirt, stays, quilted petticoat, and accessories as cap, fic…