★ Diminutiques II: Hand Crafting Furniture in Miniature (1976 - PDF) ★ This 32-page book teaches you basic techniques to complete miniature 1:12 scale dollhouse furniture. ★ 1:12 Scale Dollhouse Furniture Designs: • Empire Sofa • Coffee Table • End Table • Double Twist Pedestal • Melodeon Bench • Curio Base • Curio Top ★ This book is a PDF download and is delivered to you immediately upon receipt of payment. ★ ✩ Dolls + Dollhouse Patterns ✩ https://www.etsy.com/shop/TheStarShop?section_id= 38194792

Today we are going to have fun with craft foam board. I have made a template you can use to create your own 1:6 armchair. Take the time to read through the tutorial, but don’t let the amount …

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I think this witch cast a spell on me as I have be sooooooo slow getting this project done, but spell or no, here it is, THE WITCH’S KITCHEN….hopefully in time to add to your Halloween fun. Yes, I know, the witch is a bit scary but I decided I wanted to use a skeleton & it is a bit hard to make them “cute”. One reason I chose a skeleton was because they are so easy to come by that everyone that wanted to could create their own & secondly as a challenge. But you certainly may choose a sweeter version for your little kitchen. If Halloween, witches, and all are not your thing, I have added a couple of pictures at the end of this posting that may inspire you to make some sweeter magic. At the very least, you should find some bits and pieces herein to add to your miniature DIY collection. Happy Halloween, Joann THE BASE This vignette sits on a base of a 5” x 7” picture frame. All was removed from the frame and then it was painted black. The back of the frame faces up. Next it was sanded here and there for an aged look. A full-sized vinyl tile (an inexpensive, home improvement store purchase…lots of interesting patterns to choose from) was cut to fit in the frame opening with a craft knife. It was sanded a bit to get rid of the sheen and then glued in place. You could also choose to have a stone floor such as the type found in my June 2011 blog project, The Potting Bench. -------------------------------------------- CABINET/CUPBOARD You will need: I/16” thick matboard or bookboard or basswood, acid free + tacky glue, Crafter’s Pick used here http://www.amazon.com/Crafters-Pick-60134-Ultimate Instructions: As you work, take your own measurements before you cut your material as slight differences in the thickness of the materials you use and your cuts may alter them slightly. You may choose to use 1/16” thick matboard, bookboard or basswood or a combination of the three to construct your cabinet. Cut a back 4” x 6” & two side pieces per diagram. Glue the back edges of the side pieces to the face of the back, all edges flush. Cut 3 top shelves 3-7/8” x ¾” (Check the space between your sides to make sure this size will fit your cabinet and make any necessary adjustments to measurements). Glue one shelf (which is actually the sub-top) to the face of the back piece and the side pieces, top edges flush. Glue the other two shelves to the back and side pieces, placed as desired to accommodate what you want to display on them. You may even decide to eliminate one for higher storage space. As seen are they spaced 1” apart. Cut a counter top per pattern. Glue into cabinet 3-1/8” down from the inside of the top piece and so the extensions on the sides of the piece rest on the front extensions of the cabinet. Cut two bottom shelves for the bottom section of the cabinet. Glue them in place in the cabinet, one ½” up from the cabinet bottom and the other place as desired, You may also choose to omit this last shelf, depending on what is to be stored. Cut a bottom kick plate 4” x ½” x1/16”. Glue it to the face of the cabinet across the bottom. Cut a 4” x 3/16” x 1/16” kick plate trim and glue over kick plate, top edges even. Click on image to enlarge. Copy and paste to your computer. Set to print at actual/exact size or 7.73"w x 10.66"h ----------------------------- Cut two bottom side trim pieces 2-1/4” x 3/16” x 1/16”. Glue to front sides of cabinet from under the counter top to the kick plate. Cut an under counter top trim piece 3-5/8” x 3/16” x 1/16”. Glue it under the counter top and to the bottom side trim pieces. Cut an under top trim piece 4” x 3/16” x 1/16”. Glue it across the face of top of the cabinet, top edges flush. Cut two, top side trim pieces, 3” x 3/16” x 1/16”. Glue these to the face of the sides of the cabinet, side edges flush with sides of cabinet. Cut a piece of matboard 4-1/8” x 1” x 1/16” and another piece 4-3/8” x 1-1/8” x 1/16”. Glue these two pieces sandwiched together, back edges flush & and a 1/16” over hang on each end. Glue this cabinet top to the top of the cabinet, back edges flush, and centered, side to side. Click on image, copy and paste to your computer. Set to print at exact/actual size or 7.93"w x 9.38"w --------------------------------- =================== WITCH’S WORK TABLE Assembling legs: Each leg is made up of assorted wooden beads including plastic skull beads (approx. 3/8” or 9-10mm… check your local or online craft and jewelry supply sources. Each leg should be approx. 2-3/8” to 2-1/3” high. The top and bottom beads should have flat sides so the stretcher bars can be glued to them. As seen each leg had two skull beads. The beads are “strung” on thin (approx. 1/16” thick bamboo skewers with tacky glue…look in kitchen & import stores for these thin skewers (why bamboo?...because they are pliable and will not break easily). Make six legs. Paint the leg assemblies as desired. As seen they are painted with an avocado green acrylic craft paint. When the paint had dried, antique them with a dark brown water based gel stain, wiping it back off until the look you want is achieved. Lightly sand off some of the paint and stain for a slightly distressed look. Make sure the skulls show up by adding a bit of white to the teeth and black to the eyes, etc. Cut a table top 4 ½” x 2 ¼”, from either 1/16 to 3/32” sheet wood, bookboard, or matboard. Sand edges smooth. Paint with a raw sienna color acrylic (make sure to paint both sides at the same time to prevent any warping). When paint has set, use a fairly wide, flat bristled brush to apply dark brown water-based gel stain from end to end to create a wood –grain look. Set aside to dry. For the table apron pieces you will need, 11” to 12” of ¼” x 1/8” stripwood. For the stretchers you will need about 12” of 3/16” square stripwood. Paint & antique these wood strips to match the table legs. Turn the table-top upside down. Measure and mark a line 1/8” in from the edges all the way around. Glue a leg, upside down, to each corner of the table, just inside the marked lines. Glue a leg centered between each of the legs on the long sides. Let glue set. Measure and cut apron pieces to fit between tops of legs (do each one separately for accuracy). Cut stretchers the exact length of each apron piece. Touch up the ends with paint. Apply glue to a narrow edge and ends of an apron piece and apply it to the underside of the table top, with the ends centered on the top beads of the legs. Glue the ends of the matching stretcher piece between and to the bottom beads, centered on the bead, or sitting up approx. 1/16” from bottom of bead. Repeat so there is an apron and stretcher between each leg. Cut & glue in place another stretcher to fit across the center table legs on the bottom bead section.…this should be the same length as the end stretcher pieces. ------------------------------------- THE WITCH For the witch I have used a 6 inch plastic skeleton from a skeleton garland. These inexpensive skeletons are fairly easy to find in just about any store that offers Halloween décor or online. Of course you may want a less scary witch and can dress a doll or action figure as you please. The first thing I did was create the witch’s shoes so they would be ready when she was dressed. To create the shoes I used plastic, fashion doll (Barbie?) boots as molds. These type of boots can be found packaged with other shoes in toy departments of just about any store….they are quite inexpensive. Cut the front and bottom of the boots open on the seam line. Hold it closed with a rubber band, or what-have-you. Mix up a bit of Plaster of Paris, carefully following package directions. Drop/pour it into the boot mold, making sure it goes into the heel part...tapping it sharply should do the job. When it is full tap it some more to get rid of air bubbles that can occur. Let the mold sit for several hours overnight. Carefully open the mold, watching to see that the narrow heel does not break. Let the boots dry thoroughly before carving…you can usually tell when the plaster is dry by the touch…when still damp it will feel cold. Drying can be hastened by placing the pieces in a warm environment or with the use of a heat gun. I would suggest making extras in case of breakage. To carve the shape, first cut off the top of the boot. Then use files, knives, Dremel Moto Tool, sandpaper, or what-have-you or what you are comfortable with to get the shape. Paint your shoes with black acrylic. I used Folk Art’s Metallic Sequin Black by Plaid because it resembles patent leather. Cut or twist off the feet of the skeleton and make a hole in the shoes deep enough to take the end of the bone. When all else is done on the witch, glue the shoes on with tacky glue.. I used these photos as an inspiration I took a very easy approach to dressing my witch, no sewing involved. You may sew yours, but I love glue. To do approximately what I did, start with a piece of black, lightweight cotton fabric. Paint both sides of it with black acrylic craft paint and hang to dry…or hurry the process with a heat gun. Twist the arms off of the skelly. Using Crafter’s Pick Ultimate Glue wrap a 5” length of wire (of a gauge that is strong enough to not bend easily but is still flexible…yes I know I should give you a gauge, but……..) around the arm, starting at the wrist and letting the excess wire extend off the top. Cut arm pieces from prepared fabric. Fold in half and glue together with a small seam. Cut end of sleeve onto ragged points. Paint the wired arm with glue and insert it into the sleeve so the seam is to the inside, the bottom of the sleeve hits just below the wrist, with the wire extending out the top of the fabric. Let glue set for a bit and then hold the sleeved arm to the skeleton and wrap the extending wire around the neck/backbone until it is secure. Repeat for the other arm. The wire will allow you to position the arm as desired. Cut a 5-1/2”w x 5” long piece of prepared fabric for the dress. Glue it into a long tube with a small seam. Turn back a hem on the top of the tube…the hemmed end will be the top of the dress. Cut arm sections out of each side at the top (making it look somewhat like a jumper). Paint glue on the top half of the inside of the tube and slip it on the skeleton from the bottom up. Fit dress to body, arm cut-outs around sleeves, and draping and shaping using more glue as needed. There is no particular way to do this, just play with the fabric until you are pleased with the dress. When you have finished the dress should be just above the feet so the shoes will show so trim if necessary. Cut the bottom of the dress into ragged points. Add black sequin stars down the front for buttons if desired. A cape may be added…I “cheated” and used one taken from an action figure. But making a cape with the prepared fabric should be fairly easy. Measure and cut, pleat the neck edge a bit and drape on the back of the dress with glue, letting the bottom flow out a bit. Add a black silk ribbon tie around the neck. Click on image to enlarge, Copy and paste to your computer. Set to print at 5.79"w x 7.07"h ------------------------------ For the hat cut a brim and crown from black cardstock. Lay the crown on a giving surface and roll over it with a round pencil or something similar, following the shape of the cut-out, causing it to roll up on itself. Glue the side over the tab. Cover the outside of the crown with a piece of unpainted black fabric. Cover both sides of brim with unpainted black fabric. Cover the outside edge of the brim with thin black cording, starting and stopping at center back. Glue the crown onto the brim over the cutout. Let glue set. You may wish to add some trim to the hat. Before putting the hat on the witch, add her hair. I used snippets cut from grey faux fur but you may choose to use other materials, such as gray yarn, frayed out. It is not necessary to cover the top of the head with hair as the hat will cover it. Glue the hat in place and when the glue has set a bit, scrunch up both the brim and the crown, as desired. Copy and paste image to your computer. Set to print at actual/exact size or 6.02"w x 3.26"h -------------------------- Add the shoes. Remember these patterns and directions are pretty rough so take any liberties necessary to get a finished look that pleases you. ----------------------------- ON THE TABLE THE MAGIC POTION Choose two containers, one to sit on the table that holds the brewing potion and another that the witch is holding as she pours. The first should be rather large and could be a pot or a small caldron. The 2nd should have a handle or stem that is small enough for a hand to hold. Decide where on the table you want your brewing potion and glue or glue-dot it in place. Glue the pouring vessel into the witch’s hand, bending the fingers around it; let the glue set. Make sure the pouring vessel is positioned so that the “liquid” would have a natural spill. Glue the witch in place to the floor so that the pouring vessel is above the brewing bowl. Cut a piece of clear plastic, kitchen wrap at least twice the width of the bowl and of a length that will fit from the pouring vessel to bowl with enough to fill the inside of each. Scrunch up one end of the plastic and glue it into the pouring vessel; let the glue set. Put a nice glob of Crafter’s Pick Incredibly Tacky glue into the bowl and, with the help of tweezers, pull the other end of the plastic wrap down into the glue in the bowl, arranging/pleating the portion between vessel and bowl for a natural flow. Let glue set. Drop clear fingernail enamel (a top coat or hard nails type is stronger) all around the plastic wrap from the top on down so it flows down and over the rest and into the bowl. Add several thick coats, drying between each. Make sure the enamel is up into the vessel and covers the entire wrap in the bowl. When the enamel is thoroughly set the plastic wrap should be rigid an hold its shape. Choose metallic green or blue color fingernail enamel (or whatever color fits your fantasy) and paint it over the clear enamel until you are satisfied with the effect. Sprinkle the last coat of enamel with fine glitter (you choice of colors) and if desired, tiny sequin stars or bats or whatever. When all is set add a last coat of clean enamel. To add interest, the brewing pot sits in the middle of an ornate, metal picture frame. This is an easy, fun, and effective technique, but for good results take your time, letting the glues and enamels dry thoroughly, even if it takes over night. --------------------------------- A purchased pewter bowl & spoon holds glitter. A purchased, tall metal candlestick painted gold holds a candle made from a thin drinking straw. Once the straw was cut and glued in place it was filled with pale yellow acrylic paint, allowing it to dribble down the sides of the candle, spilling onto the base and a bit on the table. Before the paint has set a length of white buttonhole thread was poked into the “candle” for the wick. When the paint was set the tip of the wick was dabbed with bright orange and yellow paint and when dry, with a coat of clear nail enamel. If I had more patience I might have considered wiring the candle with a tiny bulb. ---------------------------- The Open Potion Recipe Book: From the spine of an approx.. 3/16” thick tablet cut a book a scant 11/16” w by 7/8” high. Create a printie of the book cover. Carefully cut it out & fold it on all lines. Glue the two spine tabs to the inside. Glue the prepared cover to the first and last cover’s of your book, gluing the tabs to the inside. Using a pointed or very small ball stylus, “draw” over the black spine edges and the black corner edges to add dimension. Holding the book closed, color the edges of the pages lightly gold, using your choice of medium. If the gold is too intense, antique with a brown wash. Click on image to enlarge. Copy and paste to your computer. Set to print at actual/exact size or 2.81"w x 2.78"h Set to best printer settings. Print onto bright white paper. =========== Either print the book’s recipe page on an ecru-colored or vellum type paper or tint a white printie with brown water color for an aged look. Fold the page in half. Open book about halfway thru. And use glue stick to adhere the page in the book. Age and distress the book’s pages for a used look to suit your tastes by turning the corners of the pages slightly inward and otherwise ruffling them a bit. Add a light coat of glue stick to the edges of the pages to hold them together. A thin length of black silk ribbon bookmark may be glued on the open pages if desired. --------------------------------- Assorted beads and cork topped glass bottles hold bits and pieces of glitter and this and that. A little rat sits on the corner of the table watching as the potion is brewed. He is from Lemax Spooky Town Collection #74683, rats and snakes. http://www.amazon.com/Spooky-Halloween-Critters I used a Dremel Moto Tool http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-100-N-Single-Speed-Rotary and files to carefully carve off the base the rats sat on. --------------------------------------------- IN & AROUND THE CUPBOARD The upper two shelves of the cupboard hold an assortment of bottles and jars. Some bottles are made from Lite Brite pegs (multicolored, translucent, plastic pegs from a child’s game. Refill packs are available at toy stores and are often found for sale, bagged in thrift stores) and others are formed from ¼” diam. acrylic rods from Tap Plastics www.tapplastics.com They come in opaque white, transparent yellow, green, yellow, blue, red, pink. You will want to order then in ¼”. Each is 6 feet long but they will cut them shorter for cheaper shipping…these make a good purchase to share with mini friends or club members. Print the bottle out to 1/4" wide ----------------------------------------------- Using the bottle pattern as a guide (or create your own) cut sections of the rod to length desired with a razor saw or use the pegs. Insert the cut rods or pegs into a variable-speed electric drill. With the drill turned on to a medium speed, use various tools of your choice, such as Dremel Moto tool with assorted attachments, carving tools, assorted files, and medium grade sandpaper to shape the piece. Finish the bottles by buffing or coating with clear nail enamel. You may paint corks or stoppers on the top of the bottles. As you experiment with shaping you will find the tools that work best for you and you will find a comfortable way to hold the drill as you work (I like to hold it in my lap but I also have a clamp that holds it to my work table. Your first shapes may be a bit “wonky” but it doesn't take long to get the procedure down and you will find it a fun and habit-forming project. Some Lite-Brite pegs have air bubbles in them adding to the illusion of a potion. Small jars may be formed simply by cutting the rods to size. Add ¼” punched rounds of cardstock for tops. Make printies of labels, cut out and glue to bottles or jars. BE SURE TO WEAR SAFETY GLASSES FOR THIS PROJECT. Copy and paste image to your computer. Set to print at actual/exact size or 4.26"w x 1.79"h Print onto bright white paper at best printer settings. ------------------------------------------------- ----------------------------------- Here you will also find an assortment of books. For the bookends look in my October 2010 posting, The Consummate Bibliophile . Click on image to enlarge. Copy & paste to your computer. Set to print at actual/exact size or 8.31"w x 4.26"h Print onto bright white paper at best printer settings ------------------------------------------- The two lower shelves hold large baskets full of “who knows what”. The counter shows an open book, more bottles, and a dish of something green & yuckie On top the cupboard is a birdcage with an angry crow inside. Also there sits a black cat, one of three of our witch’s pets. These are repainted plastic cats from Archie McPhee http://mcphee.com/shop/crazy-cat-lady-action-figure.html‘ GARLIC BRAID Start by peeling off the skin from a real garlic clove. Coat the skin with acrylic matte medium to strength and protect. Let dry. Coat a white peppercorn with the matte medium. Let dry. Wrap a peppercorn in a piece of the prepared garlic skin, using lue, twisting the ends tightly. Make ten or twelve little garlic heads. Twist a prepared pieces of the garlic skin for a rope and loop one end over itself for hanging. Glue the prepared garlic braid as long as desired. Cut a bit of the root from a real garlic head and fray a bit. Attach to the bottom of each garlic head on the rope, rimming as desired. Hang from side of cupboard. ------------------------------- BROOM Gather a bunch of fine broom straw (craft shops sell small, inexpensive, fan-like brooms that are perfect for this type of project or check your full-sized whisk broom) that measures approx. 3/8” diameter when squeezed. Holding the bundle tightly, tie a piece of black buttonhole thread several times around the bundle, approx. ¼” down from the top. Coat the wrapped thread and where it touches lightly with glue. Trim the bottom section of the straw to approx. 1 ¼”. For the broom stick, cut an approx. 4” length of approx. of 1/8” thick round branch cut from the end of a dried flower. Choose a branch segment with some character for more interest. You also may choose to whittle your own broomstick. If needed weather the broomstick with acrylics. Coat the bottom 1/2 “of the broomstick with glue and insert it down into the middle of the top of the straw bundle, whole holding the bundle fairly tightly. You’re all ready to fly! ================= Here are two photos of February 2003 article, THE QUEEN OF HEARTS =================== If all goes as planned I will see you soon with Preparing the Turkey in time to help celebrate Thanksgiving . Until then,

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Hello, Hello! I know I missed August. My husband grows a garden every year and I can the vegetables for him. He's a big help with the canning, too. I put up over 115 pounds of tomatoes, mostly made into juice for him, some whole tomatoes for me. Lots of green beans were canned and I made grape jelly. Our blackberries didn't do well so I bought strawberries and peaches and made them into jam. Our pantry shelves are very colorful this year. I saw this cabinet on-line and thought it would make a good tutorial for you. The drawers and door open so you can fill them. The door is a little thick, I would recommend using 1/32" thick basswood for the outer layers and keep the middle layer 1/16" thick. The door would then be 1/8" thick instead of 3/16". Another design change, I would make the drawers narrower. I think they might be a little too tall for the cabinet. Making the drawers narrower will give you more room for the space between the shelving. It's up to you. I used wooden knobs from Hobby Builders Supply, Item #12007, 18 knobs for $5.36. The metal hooks are from Hobby Builders, too (www.miniatures.com) Item #65714, four hooks for $4.99. The wire mesh is something I bought from Michaels a long time ago. I checked on-line to see if Michaels has it and I couldn't find it. I then Googled Paragona wire form or Amaco wire form and found Dick Blick carries it as did a few other places, they deal in clay supplies. I used the 1/8" pattern. Let's get started building the cabinet. I am using basswood. It is so much simpler to use wood. Yes, you can make this from mat board if that's what you have. Considerations have to be made for mat board and wood is just easier to use. This cabinet will be glued together using yellow carpenters glue, either Elmer's or TiteBond. Cut the back and sides from 3/32" thick basswood. The back and sides are the same length or height, 3 1/8", the grain is vertical on both pieces. After cutting that length set the saw to 2 11/16" and cut the width of the back. With the saw still set at 2 11/16" cut the bottom shelf that holds the drawers. This is cut from 1/16" thick stock, and will fit between the sides just like the back. It's easier to cut this now so you don't have to re-set the saw. The grain will be horizontal on this piece. I'll cut the depth of the shelf later along with the other shelves. Set this piece aside after you have it cut. You might want to mark what it's for so you don't use it for something else, it's been done. Back to the sides, the sides are 3/4" deep or wide. Above is a picture of a side. After I have the width cut I am marking the curve at the bottom using my circle template. I am using the 1 5/8" circle to mark that curve. To make identical cuts I am using glue stick to glue a scrap of paper to one side of a side. Apply glue stick to the paper. (For more complicated cuts I will use yellow or white glue, not tacky, letting it dry. Yellow or white glue holds better.) After applying glue stick to the paper press the other side onto the paper. Line up all the edges and let this dry for about fifteen minutes. You might want to clamp this if you have clamps, the wood might curl away from the glue. I used my scroll saw to cut the curve. Pop the two pieces apart, peel off the paper. Give the surface a light sanding to remove the glue residue. These are my two sides and the back. Use yellow carpenters glue and glue the sides to the back. Glue the sides to the side edges of the back. Do not glue the sides on top of the back. PLEASE LET THIS DRY THOROUGHLY BEFORE GOING ON. The shelves and middle divider are 5/8" deep, your first shelf is cut to length all ready. Set the saw to 5/8" and cut the bottom shelf that width. With the saw still set on 5/8" cut at least 10" of 1/16" thick basswood for the shelves and middle divider. I cut myself a cheater block so my shelf will be level when glued. This piece of wood is 1/2" wide. That is the space left at the bottom of the cabinet. The cheater block doesn't have to be exactly the width of the back just close. Glue the shelf in. Let the glue tack, then carefully remove the cheater block. You should have a level shelf. I am going to explain this technique again. Someone misunderstood how this is done. Sometimes it's hard to find the middle mathematically. I want to find the middle of this piece. Measure beyond the middle, mark. Using the same measurement, measure from the other side and mark. Now measure between your two marks. I did not say to eye it and find the middle, we measure. I have the middle of my piece of wood. Just something I thought I would pass on. I use it a lot. Find the middle of your cabinet back. Find the middle of the bottom shelf. Measure and cut the middle divider. Center the divider on your marks and glue into your cabinet. Remeasure to make sure your space at the top is the same measurement as the space at the bottom. It isn't as important to have exactly the same width on each side but it is important that the space be square or you will have trouble with your cabinet door. Let this dry a bit. The second set of shelves hold the drawers. Measure between the left side and the middle divider. When you have that measurement cut your shelf. Check that the width all the way up the left side is the same. Cut two more shelves for the left side. Set these aside for now. You'll notice I've gone and cut myself another set of cheater blocks for trying to get my shelves level. Cut a couple of pieces of scrap wood 21/32" tall, that's the space between these shelves. I am sorry about the 32" measurement. That's just past 5/8". At this point you change the distance between these shelves and the ones above. You are going to be measuring on your own so it's up to you. Glue the shelf in, let it tack and carefully remove the cheater blocks. Measure between the middle divider and the right side and cut another shelf. You have another shelf for inside the cabinet, it is cut narrower to fit behind the cabinet door. Go ahead and cut this shelf to length now. We will cut it's depth later. Set it aside and mark it. Glue the other shelf in and let this assembly dry for a bit. From the looks of the next picture I got into the zone of constructing the cabinet and forgot to take pictures of gluing in the upper two shelves. Cut some scrap wood for cheater blocks 9/16" tall, that's the space between the shelves on the left side of the cabinet. Glue your two shelves in using yellow carpenter's glue. Let this assembly dry for a bit. I am measuring for the drawer fronts. They are cut from 3/32" thick basswood. This is my measurement. I must stress at this point you are going to have to measure for yourself and cut to your measurements. We all make our cuts a little differently, yes we do. The width of a pencil line makes a great difference when making miniature furniture. I want to leave a little room for the drawer to slide in and out easily so I am going to cut the height of the drawer front at 5/8". That will leave a little room at top and bottom. Cut a piece of 3/32" thick basswood, enough to cut two drawer fronts from 5/8" wide. The grain is horizontal, set this aside. Since I know the height of the drawer front I can also cut the height of the sides from 1/16" thick basswood. Cut the drawer sides, enough to cut four sides from. Put two drawer sides into the drawer space and measure the width of the space left. I am measuring for the drawer bottom. I cut my drawer bottom at 1 1/8" wide. The grain of the drawer bottom is going from front to back. The grain of the sides and back of the drawer is horizontal. I know the drawer front, the sides and bottom aren't finished, yet. They still need to be cut to length. With your saw still set at 1 1/8" wide cut a piece of basswood for the back. Mark all of these pieces so that you know which is which. I've slid in the drawer bottom with the sides (remember the sides haven't been cut to length, yet). Everything seems to slide all right. Measure the depth of the drawer space, minus the thickness of the drawer front, 3/32". I cut my drawer bottoms 1/2" deep. My saw is set at 1/2" and that is how long my sides need to be. I have two drawer bottoms and four sides ready to be glued together. Glue the sides to the edges of the bottoms. Please let this dry before going on. Your back is all ready cut to length when you cut your drawer bottom. What you need to do is cut it's height or width. Measure on the inside of the drawer the height of the sides and set your saw and cut the backs. Glue the backs onto the bottom and between the sides. Measure along the bottom front of your drawer and cut two drawer fronts that length. Glue the drawer fronts onto the drawers. I cut a top from 3/32" basswood. I cut it so that 1/8" is extra at each side and across the front. My top measured 3 1/8" long (from side to side) and 7/8" deep. The grain is horizontal. Glue your top onto the top of the cabinet. My right side shelf is all ready cut to length. The shelf needs to be 3/16" less than the depth of the other shelves. 3/16" is how thick my door is. I mentioned this before, I think I would have liked to use 1/32" thick wood for the face and back of the door, that would have the door be 1/8" thick. If you do this adjust the width of your shelf, add a 1/16" to my measurement. My shelf width is 7/16" wide. This picture is showing the thickness of my door, three layers of 1/16" thick basswood brings the door even with the face of the cabinet. I've made a cheater block for this, too. I've divided the space in half and cut my block 7/8" wide. Glue the shelf in and let it dry a bit. So far so good. The full-size cabinets had metal hooks and I liked that. I thought it paired well with the metal mesh in the door. I looked through my stash and found these coat hooks and they were too big. I used cutters to cut the bottom part off. I used the smaller bottom hook for my cabinet. Set these aside for now. I am measuring for the stiles (the vertical part of the door frame) for the cabinet door. I cut them 1 3/4". The width of my stiles is a fat 3/16". I thought 1/4" was just to wide. If you are buying your wood buy strip-wood 3/16" wide. I've cut two stiles, will cut two more. You are going to have a front and back to your cabinet door with the wire mesh between. Measure between the stiles for the rails (the horizontal part of a cabinet door). I cut my rails just shy of 13/16" to make sure I have space to open and close my door. I have four stiles and two pieces of 1/16" x 1/16". The 1/16" x 1/16" will be glued between the doors making the space for the wire mesh. Here are all my stiles and rails to make a front and back cabinet door. Ignore the shorter 1/16"x 1/16" on the left side of the picture. You will measure and cut 1/16" x 1/16" pieces when the door is further along. Glue the rails between the stiles for the front and back. Glue the 1/16" x 1/16" long pieces onto the stiles. Glue them so that the outside edges are even. Then measure and cut pieces of the 1/16"x 1/16" to fit between the longer pieces on the sides. Make sure all the edges are even. This is the package for the wire that I used to fill the cabinet door. A picture of the whole front of the package. This company is also known as AMACO. As I mentioned before I did find it on-line, seems to be used by hobbyists that use clay. I used to find this product at Michaels in the isle where the glues are sold or by the Fimo. This wire is very flexible and you can change the width of the diamonds. I painted my wire a brassy color and cut it to fit inside the frame I made with the 1/16" x 1/16" strip wood. Glue the other cabinet frame onto of this assembly. If you have clamps you may use them, just be careful to not mark the surface of the doors. Ready for a pin hinge. But wait . . . when I was painting my wire I found that the paint would fill the diamonds . . . hmmm . . . . do I still have some stained glass paint stuck somewhere? Yes, I had two little pots, blue and purple. I usually buy a little kit once every couple of years just to keep it on hand. (When making paper pottery I will use glass paint as a finish, it looks exactly like glaze. You'll find that in the "Things to do, Things to see" list. I painted my wire mesh black and then filled in with the stained glass paint. Wouldn't this look great on English cottage windows?? Or I could have put this in my cabinet door. Back to putting in the pin hinge To help keep the door steady I cut a couple of pieces of scrap wood the same width as my shelf, 7/16". I've set my door into place. With pin hinges you need to have the pins the same distance from the edges at top and bottom. If the pins are not in the same place the door will have trouble opening and certainly not open straight. The door will be wonky. So we measure but we have a top that extends beyond the rest of the cabinet, problem number 1. Measure not more than an 1/8" away from the side or front and mark. I usually measure 3/32". I forgot to sharpen my pencil, my mark is too big and messy. Remember the top extends 1/8" beyond the body of the cabinet. Add that on and make your marks. I am using a "T" pin to start my hole before I drill. Problem number 2 is that I have a shelf to drill around. I have tried make cabinets leaving the problem parts off until I fit the pin hinge and that certainly could have been done here. I usually can get around this and set the pin. I cut straight pins off and use them for my hinges. I drilled holes for my wooden knobs and glued them in. I used super glue, medium thickness to glue on the metal hooks. I know I've done this cabinet using wood and saws that some of you don't have. As I mentioned before you can use mat board just go back and review some of the cabinets I've made using mat board and I am sure you can make this, too. I do apologize for missing August. I've added some new and beautiful pictures to the Follower's Gallery, please go and take a look what other miniaturists have been doing with the tutorials and cheer them on. And I know I haven't said this in a very long time, Thank You All for reading and sending me all the appreciation that you do. You all make my day and keep this blog going. Have fun, Expand on it, Make it better . . . . Just Keep Making Minis!! Talk to you later, Kris