This is the stove from the corner cabinet dollhouse, the red kitchen (that I still must finish). When I wanted to make a stove I went looking on-line in Google Images for a stove that I could build. I found one that looked simple enough and it had measurements, too. That's important for proper scale. They also had a good picture of the grates for me to copy. Thankfully, I kept all of this for future reference. Going to use wood glue for everything except for a little later on and I will let you know about that. Make the burner grate first. I tried to use card stock strips glued together but I didn't like the result so I switched to wood. Wood is what I used on my original. Hobby Lobby and Michaels have basswood in varying thickness and widths. I used 1/16 inch thick basswood, This is 3/16 inch wide and it is for the frame. For the grates I used 1/32 inch thick and 3/32 wide. To try to keep everything square I used graph paper. For cutting I used my Chopper. This is available from Hobby Builders. Cut two pieces of the 1/16" x 3/16" - 2" long. This is the front and back of the grate frame. Cut four pieces 1 7/8" long from the same stock. Set two aside for the middle of the frame. Glue two of the 1 7/8" lengths to the surface of the 2" long front and back pieces. Look at the picture above at the corners. The 2" piece is covering the ends of the 1 7/8" pieces. Measure from the inside of the square and mark 3/4 inch from the side. Do the same thing from the other side. Glue the other two 1 7/8" long pieces on the marks your made like I have. You should have about a 1/4 inch between the two pieces. I am using my square to check on things! Measure between the two middle pieces and cut three pieces from the 1/32" stock the length you measured. This should be 1/4" but I want you to measure your grate for sure. This is how I measure to set the "stop", that's the black triangle thing on the left. Be sure to use tweezers to remove your tiny pieces. The Chopper uses a single edge razor blade and it can slice you in the blink of an eye! Cut your three pieces and glue them into the center space. One piece is in the center. Then each space is divided and the second and third pieces are glued in each center following the picture above. The 1/32" x 3/32" grate pieces will be flat with one side of the grate frame. This is showing the flat side. I've also measured for the center pieces and glued them in. I will be using 1/8", 1/4" and 5/16" punches for this tutorial. I punched a 5/16" circle and placed that in the center of one square. This is the top of the burner. Put your grate on top of the graph paper. (I know I don't show that but you need to measure from the actual grate.) I measured from the corner to the burner. I want to leave space at the center of the burner. Cut eight pieces and glue them into the corners. Measure from the bottom of the grate to the top of the corner piece. Cut four this length and glue them into the frame. Measure as before, cut the lengths for the outside sides and glue them into the frame. My center sides were just a little different from the outside side measurement. I cut and glued them into the frame. I've measured for the inner corners and glued the pieces in. Showing the underside of the grate. I measured for the inner center pieces and glued them in. Set this aside to dry. This grate is a little simpler than the original, really take a look at the Google picture above. Print out Nancy's patterns using the directions in the "Things to do, Things to see" list, How to re-size the patterns. Print the patterns onto card stock. We put all the patterns on this time so you won't have to measure to draw the rectangles. I still want you to measure to make sure the parts are the right size when you trace and cut them out. The patterns look simple but we are building a box and everything has to be square. Cut out the two sides and the back from 1 layer of mat board. Just a note: if you want to build this from basswood as I did the original I used 1/8" thick stock. Glue the back between the sides. Use the edge that does not have the notch. Both sides are glued on. Cut out a bottom from one layer of mat board and glue inside the sides and back. Cut two tops out from 1 layer of mat board and set one aside for now. Glue one top inside the sides and back. Another view of the box. A view of the top of the box. While the box is drying I went outside and spray painted my grate. Let the paint dry. Carefully lay the flat side of the grate on 220 grit sand paper and sand a bit. I found a glove! Spray the grate again. Make sure you have all the little spaces painted. Let this dry. Cut a strip of mat board 3/16" wide. Cut three pieces and glue them into the bottom. Get the other top and glue that into the bottom of the box onto the strips you just glued in. Cut two strips of mat board 2 1/2" wide. The strips need to be at least 4 1/2" long. Use tacky glue to glue the two pieces together. I found that wood glue would make the mat board curl up a bit. Press the two together and make sure the edges are even. This will make the oven door, the rest of the front and the four pieces for the top of the stove. I've cut the front top, front door and front bottom. This is a dry fit. Everything should be fitting flush with the sides, top and bottom. If not sand the top, door and bottom until they do. I've cut the top back and glued it to the top back of the stove. This should be flush with the back. I measured in a 1/2" from each side of the door and drew a rectangle. Use a sharp blade and cut out the window in the door. The window is cut out. Cut the rest of the pieces out: the top sides (2) and the top front (1). I've cut a bunch of 1/8" wide strips from PAPER. I am gluing the strips around the edges of each piece I cut. This covers up the raw edge of the mat board. Glue a piece over the edge of the top back piece. Glue a piece to the inside edge of the window of the door. After the glue was dry I used 320 grit sand paper to lightly sand the edges of all the pieces. I rounded them SLIGHTLY, just so you could see the joint lines when the pieces were together. Look at the Google Image picture above. Dry fit the top pieces with the grate, sand these pieces in so that they are flush with the sides and the stove's front top. A 1/16 inch dowel was used for the handle. It's cut 2 1/4" long. Use a 1/8" wide paper strip to make a "cap" on the end of the handle. Wrap and glue the paper strip around two or three times. Glue the handle bracket patterns onto four layers of card stock. You should have two brackets of five layers of card stock now. I used a 1/8" punch to punch the circle out first. I then cut the rest of the bracket out. This is the handle assembly. I've punched out a few circles from card stock using the 1/4" and 5/16" punches. These are going to be the burners. Glue 4 layers of the 1/4" together, make 4. Glue 3 layers of the 5/16" together, make 4. I found later on that I could glue at least 5 layers of card stock together and still punch. Glue 4 or 5 layers of card stock together. Use the 1/8" punch to cut at least 10 circles. Glue two circles together, 5 times, making 5 stove knobs. Press them together tightly. Glue two layers of card stock together and punch out at least 5 circles, extra for mistakes. Cut the circles in half. Glue the half circles to the center of each knob. For the back of the knob I punched out 10 1/4" circles and glued two together making 5 backs. I went outside to start spraying the stove. I bought Rust-Oleum's Stainless Steel spray paint. I was very happy with the results. I gave all surfaces a sand with 320 grit sand paper. I sprayed again. I sanded everything with 400 grit sand paper. I don't want to rough up the surfaces. I want to smooth the surfaces that I sanded earlier to round the edges. After sanding I rubbed the surface down with a scrap of an old T-shirt. All surfaces were sprayed again and when they were dry I buffed them with the T-shirt. I have begun to spray the grate with Krylon's clear gloss finish. I wrapped a strip of packing tape around a piece of foam core to make a sticky surface for the knobs, brackets and such. You will see that I have cut out the kick plate from one layer of mat board. Paint the kick plate black and when it's dry glue it to the bottom of stove in the notched area. This is the Krylon clear gloss finish I'm using. I've painted the burner bottoms, 4 layers 1/4" circles, the burner tops, 3 layers 5/16" circles and the knob backs, 2 layers 1/4" circles black. I've painted the handle brackets and the knobs silver. I will finish them with the stainless steel spray paint later. Sprayed the knobs, bracket and handle with the stainless steel spray paint. Gave the circles another coat of black. Painted the half circles of the knobs black. Gave everything a coat of gloss spray finish. The handle got a coat of gloss finish also. Walmart has poster frames and I use the acrylic for my "glass". Peel off only one side and spray paint two coats onto this surface. Let the paint dry between coats. This has one coat. Paint the top of the stove black. Cut a piece of paper just a little smaller than the door. Peel off the other side of the acrylic and place onto the back of the door. Apply wood glue around the acrylic. Don't glue the acrylic to the door. Press the paper onto the glue and press the paper down around the acrylic. The window is in. Find the center of the front top and mark where you want the knobs to be. Glue the backs to the stove front top. Glue the knobs on. Use a toothpick to paint a dot of white at the top of the knob back. I've glued on the front bottom. Continued on with gluing on the door and the front top. Everything should be flush with the sides and top. At a dry fit I found that the paint and paper made a slight difference in my top pieces. I am sanding the front and back of the grate frame. I will touch up the paint later. The sides also needed sanding. Always dry fit. This is still a dry fit. Everything has been sanded in and the black paint on the frame has been touched up. Everything is fitting nicely. I've brushed on some gloss finish to the top of the stove. I am marking the center of the burner placement with a pencil dot. Cutting a stencil for the top. I punched a circle using the 5/16" punch. drawing four circles on the top of the stove. Glued on the burner bottoms in the circles I drew. I little earlier I used a toothpick to paint silver dots around the burner tops. I glued on the burner tops. I set the grate on top of the stove, I did not glue this on. I then glued on the top front and held it in place for a minute or two. The last two pieces are glued onto the top of the stove, the top sides. The brackets have been glued to the handle. I used tacky glue for this. Tacky glue has been applied to the edges of the brackets. I'll be honest with you I didn't measure this, I just sat the handle on and pressed and held that for a minute or two. If you want to use a super glue you could. I don't have any luck with those. I always have a messy glue spot around the what I have glued together. So, here is the new stove ready to move into the kitchen. This is as easy as I could make it and I hope some of you try it out. Probably will make the refrigerator next month to finish the set. Hobby Builders is mailing out the new catalogs on the 29 of April. My kits will be featured, so exciting. I will be adding more kits with new catalogs, (I hope, if sales go well!). Hoping you are all having a nice spring, it's finally gotten warm around here. The gardens are getting cleaned up and planning what and where has begun! Have fun, Expand on it, Make it better . . . Just keep making minis! TTUL Kris

We have talked about making miniatures from trash to treasure projects before, but it got a bit to long. So today we are starting part 2.

A blog with dollhouse miniature printables, tutorials and inspiration.

In this video tutorial, I will show you step by step how to make a miniature polymer clay apples for a dollhouse in 1/12 scale. I'll show you what colors I use to create a realistic skin and reveal the secret of a thin twig that never breaks. The tutorial only shows how to create an apple without leaves and a basket. • 1 PDF file with description of materials and text in English • 2 JPG files duplicating information from PDF in case this format doesn't work for you. • A link to a video tutorial with a duration of 6:30 minutes.

This month's tutorial is a bushel basket to put all of your garden goodies in. This is a full bushel, life-size would measure: top diameter 18" (1 1/2"), bottom diameter 14 1/2" (1 3/16") and depth outside 12" (1"). The measurements in parenthesis are the 1 inch scale measurements. At the end of this tutorial I will give the measurements of a half bushel basket. Measure 1/8" on a strip of card stock. Cut a few 1/8" wide strips for the vertical slats of the basket. You are going to need 50, one inch tall vertical slats for the basket. On scrap mat board trace two 1 1/8" circles. Cut the mat board circles out. I'll be using yellow carpenter's wood glue through out this tutorial. Smear some glue onto one circle and glue the two circles together. Keep the edges even. Lowe's, Home Depot, Menards, and Wal-Mart carry touch-up markers filled with stain. These will be in the paint department. Any brand will do. Michael's also carries these. I believe their brand is MinWax. I chose a golden oak shade. You could also use colored markers. Color both sides of the card stock strips. A few finished. Now, measure for 3/32" strips. These will be glued around the outside and inside of the basket. You will need enough for two tops, two middle and one strip for the bottom outside of the basket. That's around 20" all together. I went ahead and stained the strips with my touch-up marker. I did not want my red and green horizontal rings to be too bright. I thought if I stained them first and then colored them they would look old and worn. There is my red and green colored over the stain. Measure and cut at least 50 vertical slats 1 inch long from the 1/8" wide card stock. My vertical slats for my basket. Use the yellow wood glue to glue the slats to the edge of the mat board circle. My circle took 25 slats. A word about this; we all cut things out a little differently than the next person. You might have to do some rearranging of the slats to fit 25 or 24. The slats should be close together or touching one another. The next thing we do is to glue slats over the seam of the first layer of slats. You have a double layer of slats around the circle. Let this dry a bit. I'm going to play a little Mahjong. Gently bend the slats out. The top should fit into the 1 1/2" circle of your template. Glue the first 3/32" strip around the bottom edge of the basket. Glue another 3/32" strip together so it fits into the 1 1/2" template hole. This is your top outside ring. I've got the basket on the bottom of the acrylic craft paint bottle (Apple Barrel, Delta, Folk Art. . . .). Dry fit the ring around the top of the basket. Push the slats out until the ring fits. You want the basket to sit evenly on the paint bottle. I took the ring off and applied wood glue to the ends of the slats. Press the top ring into the glue. Apply wood glue to the inside of the basket, at the top. Glue the inside ring onto the top of the basket. Apply wood glue to the middle of the basket and glue the green ring onto the basket. Apply wood glue inside the basket, along the middle and glue another green ring inside the basket. The rings are glued on. After you have left the basket to dry a bit you can pierce two holes into each side for handles. The holes can be 1/4" apart and right under the top ring. Be sure to hold and brace the basket when you pierce the holes. Put your finger inside the basket. Be careful not the pierce your finger, though. I used 28 gauge paddle wire for the handles. I bought this at Michael's. Use pliers to shape the handles. They should also be 1/4" wide. Place the ends of the handles through the holes. Cut off the extra wire. Use the pliers to bend the ends up to secure the handles. Done, all ready for produce. The measurements for a half bushel basket are: top diameter 14" (1 1/8"), bottom diameter 10 1/2" (7/8") and outside depth 9" (3/4"). The measurements in parenthesis are your 1 inch scale measurements. The size of the circle to trace is 13/16". You will use fewer vertical strips. This was quick and easy to do, I hope you will try it. Maybe you could use this for a club project. Thank you for all of the well wishes on the birth of my first grandchild, Luke. Will be going back up to visit soon. Remember, if the e-mail notification isn't working I try to get the tutorial up by the 20th of every month. Stop by to check things out if you haven't been sent an e-mail by the end of the month. Also, I am making kits of my furniture now and will announce that on the blog. With this tutorial done I will begin to build, photograph and write the next kit, the small wing chair that coordinates with the Lisa sofa. Pictures of finished tutorials and questions send to [email protected]. Have fun, Expand on it, Make it Better. . . . . Just Keep Making Minis! Nancy sent us a pattern to print onto card stock to cut the verticals. At the bottom is a red line, that's the "cut to" line. This leaves 3/32 inch on the bottom to glue to the edge of the mat board circle. The green line is the middle. By my count she has 64 verticals here,more than twice what we need, so you will cut the length that fits your circle. The "Things to do, Things to see" list has the instructions to print this out in 1 inch scale. You won't have to fiddle with gluing on each individual piece, so cool. Thank you, Nancy!! TTUL Kris

This is probably the cutest thing you will see today!

Happy pre-Thanksgiving Y'all! I promise I will eventually report on something other than miniatures... buuut it's just what I feel like sharing mmmk? I recently posted pictures on my Instagram page of a cabin scene I made. And in this precious scene were two lanterns that I made in a sort of jiffy. The next day or two I thought... maybe this mini cabin person has a collection of lanterns... so I started digging for more beads and more buttons and along the way thought I'd show you! I started by going through my old button stashes for bases, middles and tops of the lanterns. For the bottoms I wanted more decorative and flat bottom buttons. For the middle, ones that could support the round globe beads. For the tops, something either domed or that had a hook resembling a handle. Here are the ones that I found. For more of my miniature tutorials click HERE. Decorative bottom buttons. Tops. These are the beads I used for the globes or the lanterns.... I guess there are not pictures of the middles. They are pretty plain. Next I glued the middle buttons to the bottom base buttons, then the globe, then more middle buttons, and then the tops. I used Elmer's Wood Glue. It's my favorite go-to glue. I didn't take pictures of the process of gluing. I simply dip my favorite paint brush into the glue and dab it on a button the stack. The important thing is to give the glue time to dry. I'm bad about the patience part of this. :) After the glue has dried and set it's time to paint. I just use normal craft paint. Some of them need handles. So I cut a piece of wire about one inch in length, bend it around a paint brush handle and bend the ends. I then put glue on each bend and place where it belongs on the tops of the lantern. Here are my results! They aren't perfect and some of them aren't straight but that's how I like them. This one sort of looks more like a hummingbird feeder to me. So I guess that can happen too. When I look through old buttons like this I always pick out the shell buttons and put them in a special jar. I can always spot them. They have a different kind of opal-ness to them in color and shine. Most of the time the backs of them are darker like sea shells, a lot of times they aren't level in their cut and they most always have a cooler temperature. I like to touch them to my chin to make sure of the temp. They are so pretty and I for sure don't want to use them in this project and paint over their natural beauty! Check these pictures out of them. This picture show the back sides. They aren't always white in color. I love these darker ones. The back of these is the picture above. It looks like I've never gone through this tin of buttons and pulled out the sea shells. I'm certain there's more! My morning sorting. For more of my miniature tutorials click HERE.

This handy list of common miniature furniture sizes for building and designing in 1:12 scale will definitely be a helpful resource for you!

Miniature Crafts: How to Make Realistic Miniature Bricks

Ten years ago I run this workshop at Tom Bishop’s Chicago International together with Silvia Cucchi. I wish to celebrate this anniversary publishing the watering can tutorial after the basket one, hope you enjoy it!P.S. sorry for the low pics’ quality , they have 10 years as well. Once you have learned the process you […]

Fine Arts & Handcrafts Gallery, Blog & Tutorials

I recently participated in a small swap with some sewing friends. Stalking my recipients Pinterest board revealed a whole new world of miniature quilt shop supplies. She has a dollhouse, so I decided to make her some bundles. I looked around at various blogs for tutorials. I found several for fabric bolts and fat quarter bundles, but I wanted to make a few adjustments to size/fold. I tried to stay as close to 1:12 ratio as possible. While I saw pictures of super adorable miniature jelly rolls, I couldn't find a tutorial. I also didn't see any pics or tutorials for dollhouse size charm packs or layer cakes; they may be out there, but I missed them. I wanted to make fat quarter bundles that look a bit like Moda's. Given the thickness of the fabric, it is not practical to make a full 40 fabric bundle. 7-8 fabrics seemed to be just the right height. I forgot to take pics of the individual fat quarters I folded on the long side, rolled up, and tied with perle cotton to store individually, but that is also a fun way to display individual fabrics. Additionally, I wanted to make the bundles sturdy enough to be handled without coming undone, so I used glue to keep the pieces together. On the jelly rolls, the first one I made, I used only glue stick to glue as I rolled, and it was a horrible sticky mess that was slow to dry. I switched to glue gun for that part on subsequent ones, and I was really happy with the result. I am sharing here to refer back to later when I make more, and for anyone who is interested in making some like mine. I have also included printables to print labels for charm packs and layer cakes. A link to the document is found in the supplies section below. I don't have a dollhouse, but my daughter does, and these were such a fun scrap buster that I kept on making bundles. I'd love to show you a beautifully staged dollhouse quilt shop, but we aren't to that stage of the process. (Maybe in the next several years.....) Supplies Jelly Rolls: Fabric: (8) .25" x 3.5" strips Perle cotton or embroidery floss to tie bundle Low temp glue gun and glue sticks Water soluble glue stick (ex: Elmer's or Sewline) Fat Quarter Bundles: Fabric: (7 or 8) 1.25" x 1.50" rectangles Perle cotton or embroidery floss to tie bundle Water soluble glue stick (ex: Elmer's or Sewline) Charm Packs: Fabric: (8) .5" squares Cardstock: (1) .5" square Water soluble glue stick (ex: Elmer's or Sewline) Labels - printable file download available here Layer Cakes: Fabric: (8) .875" squares Cardstock: (1) .875" square Water soluble glue stick (ex: Elmer's or Sewline) Labels - printable file download available here Fabric bolts: Chipboard: Cut into .625" x 2" (or .875" x 2" if you prefer a bit wider than 1:12 scale) Fabric: 3.5" T x 4" W (or wider if you prefer a fuller bolt) Low temp glue gun and glue sticks - or - Water soluble glue stick (ex: Elmer's or Sewline) White acrylic paint Folded yardage: Fabric: Each yard approximately 3" x 3.625" Fold as desired to fit doll cabinet space Press well. If you want to stay folded, add a bit of glue to hold the fabric layers together Assembly Jelly Rolls: 1. Select 8 strips. Layout in preferred order. 2. Use glue stick on the wrong side of half of each fabric strip and fold in half with wrong sides together. Press with the iron to lay flat and heat set the glue. 3. Stack fabrics, matching raw edges, folded side of fabric on the same side. Using a glue stick, glue 1/3 of the strip from the raw edge between each strip and press with an iron to heat set. This holds the layers in place to minimize shifting when the fabric is rolled, however you do not want to glue the entire length of the fabric because they need to be free to roll and stagger on the folded end. 4. Using the glue gun, add a small bead of glue near the raw edge of the top fabric and on the bottom raw edge of the stacked fabric. Fold all of the strips of the raw end in just a tiny amount to stick to the fabric. (2nd row, pic 1) Note: You will be rolling with the fabric you want to be the exterior on the bottom. Let's just pretend I was paying attention and had my fabrics stacked in the same order that I laid them out it in the first pic. As you roll, you roll onto the fabric you want to be the inside inside the jelly roll. 5. Using the glue gun, add a small bead of glue on about 3/4" inch of the inside fabric and roll the jelly roll a bit more. Try to keep the jelly roll in a round shape. I have a couple that I made that ended up a bit more oval shaped because I was not vigilant about keeping the shape round as I rolled/ 6. Continue adding a small amount of glue to the inside fabric and roll. Add glue to the free edges in small amounts. gluing the inside fabric, then glue the fabric next to it, until you finally glue the top fabric in place. Each layer has a shorter amount to glue. 7. Add a label if you wish. Wrap and tie jelly roll with embroidery floss or perle cotton. (I used baker's twine here, but it was a bit too bulky for my taste) 8. Add fray check to keep the exposed raw edges of the fabric from fraying. Fat Quarter Bundles: 1. Select 7 or 8 fabrics. 2. Fold 1.25" side of fabric into thirds. Press well with iron, reopen fabric, glue both folds, and press down again to heat set. 3. Fold fabric in thirds again on the long side. Press well with iron, reopen fabric, glue both folds, and press down again to heat set. 4. Stack fabrics in desired order. If you would like your fabric to keep from shifting in the bundle, add a small bead of glue between fabric layers with the glue gun. 5. Add a label if you wish. Wrap and tie bundle with embroidery floss or perle cotton. Charm Packs and Layer Cakes: 1. Select 8 fabrics. Only the top fabric is immediately visible, but this is a great way to use up tiny bits of fabric that would otherwise be thrown away. 2. Layer cardstock on bottom with the fabric squares on top. To keep fabric from shifting, add a small bit of glue in the center of the cardstock and each fabric layer (do not glue the top fabric). Fray check edges to keep raw edges from fraying. 3. Print attached printable label sheet and cut on black lines. The charm pack label will need to be shortened before attaching. 4. Wrap label around the center of the bundle and glue both edges on the back of the cardstock. Fabric Bolts: 1. Paint ends of the chipboard white. 2. Fold fabric 3.5" edge of fabric down in half and press. Optional: Glue the perimeter of wrong side of fabric and press back in place. This will help to keep the fabric from shifting. Fray check bottom raw edge of fabric. 3. Using glue gun, add a bead of glue down one side of chipboard and glue raw edge of fabric in place. 4. Wrap fabric around the chipboard, fold remaining raw edge under 1/4" and press. Glue into place on the fabric bolt.

Handmade Dollhouse Miniatures in Shabby Chic, Vintage, Cottage and Farmhouse Style. Lots of photos and tutorials and inspiration.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ “Beware the man of one book.” -Latin proverb ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Unlock the secret to crafting extraordinary miniature open books with our bestselling DIY kit and tutorial. Bring the charm of antique books to your dollhouses, dioramas, and miniature worlds. Whether you're a seasoned crafter or just starting, this kit has been a cherished standard in the miniature community for over a decade, setting the bar for excellence in tiny book craftsmanship. What's Inside: Each kit includes fully-illustrated, easy-to-follow instructions for creating 80 miniature open books, all using basic crafting supplies. The book pages feature high-resolution reproductions from authentic antique books and are printed on textured paper. The quality of these images and paper lends exquisite detail and dimensionality to your final creations. These miniature books are designed to remain open in a fixed position, inviting you to immerse yourself within their worlds. Mix and Match Pages: In addition to the step-by-step instructions, this kit offers a creative twist with two sheets of 81 tiny book pages, totaling 162 pages. Half of these pages primarily feature text, while the other half showcase captivating illustrations. The beauty of this kit is that you become the designer, curating pages to craft your own unique story. Explore various subjects and time periods, from Victorian and early 20th-century, to medieval. Encounter polar bears, aquatic life, butterflies, gothic monsters, and beautiful maidens, all waiting to be brought to life in your mini library. What You'll Receive: -2 sheets of 162 tiny book pages, printed in the highest resolution on high-quality paper, ready for your artistic touch -Clear and fully-illustrated color instructions for effortless assembly -Leather scraps to complete five open books, along with information on sourcing more materials for your bookbinding endeavors Materials Needed: To complete your tiny library, we recommend having the following basic crafting supplies on hand, which may be purchased at any local craft store: -Cutting board -Card stock paper -Hot glue gun -Hot glue sticks -Sharp and durable scissors -Ribbons, leather scraps, paint, or other creative elements to personalize your books. Multiple Scales: This popular kit is offered in three scales: 1:12, 1:6, 1:24, and 1:48. Although the tutorial remains consistent across scales, feel free to adapt the suggested materials and techniques to your chosen scale. For the 1:12 scale book, finished books measure approximately 1.5" wide x 1" tall Dive into an open book---or 80, and feed your mini book love with this tutorial, bringing your story to life and elevating your tiny worlds! ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ L. Delaney’s miniatures have infiltrated dollhouses worldwide, as well as The National Building Museum and the Tiffany & Co. windows. Her debut book, All Dolled Up, was a 2017 #1 New Release on Amazon. Born and raised in Kalamazoo, she now lives and plays between Michigan, New York, and a haunted mansion in New Orleans's Garden District. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

I've been exploring several options for paper curtains for dollhouses. The patterns are fun and diverse and it can be a fun way to create a new look. I decided to try to make a mini blind that could be pulled up and would hold in a variety of positions. So this is what I came up with and how I approached it. I thought I would share for others who might like to try it. Basic tools I used for this project - paper or cardstock, cotton crochet thread, 1/8" hole punch, scoring board and bone folder for creasing, pencil, ruler tape, and patience! I used a 3" x 12" strip and scored it at 1/2" intervals Score lines Accordian fold all the way up At the bottom I measured in about 3/8" and a 1/4" from the bottom to have a guide for punching my holes. I use the first holes to mark the next and cut through two layers and mark again. I do find it better to not punch too many at once because the hole pattern doesn't always fall quite in the center and I adjust to get it as close as possible. Punch holes all the way except for the top one. Cut off one long piece of crochet thread. One continuous string, half up one side and half up the other. From the bottom I feed through the holes on both sides. One additional step that I forgot to include. Pull the string out of the top holes and put a layer of invisible tape on the front and back of that section and repunch your top hole on each side. This will help reinforce where most of the tension is felt when pulling the thread. Now I cross each thread to the opposite top hole and pull it through. Now your ends should be hanging out the front. To test pull, I pinch together the top fold as shown. You should be able to grab the strings with your other hand and gently pull. A small piece of double sided tape will be used. I find Scotch tape most dependable. See the little piece of tape in the center? Make sure it isn't overlapping your holes. This is only done on this one layer. For additional strength, I use invisible tape on the outside edges also taking care not to overlap the holes. Then trim excess. It should look like this. Make sure you strings move easily. Hold from the back like before to test movement. The purpose of this is to create friction and help your blind to hold wherever you want. Tape the bottom where the string wraps around so the thread does not shift. This one next to my first completed one! Now I make the header using foam board though some may prefer wood, whatever is handy and preferable. I am creating a U-shape to have an opening where my thread moves freely. The shorter ends are about 3/8" high and glued to the front and back at the top and the larger piece is glued on them. I trimmed an edge because of where my holes were. Wood edges would be thinner and less like to interfere. My two shorter outer edges glued with clear tacky glue Here is a side view of the U-shape. This is the top of the blind. I test to make sure no glue has seeped out and glued my thread down. I cut another 3" piece of my paper to cover the foam on top and scored it and cover all three sides meaning the front, top and back. That leaves the open sides to cover. I cut a 1/2" strip and glue it on and then trim with my knife. I do this mainly since it may not be a square as I think, lol! This last step is another piece of double sided tape to attach the next fold to the top so it will hang correctly. This is the view from the back. After adding that tape I took additional invisible tape and taped across the back of the header where you would attach it to your wall or window to help protect the paper. Also extended a small bit of tape around the layer I used the double sided tape on between the strings and on the outer edges for reinforcement. I had another sheet of this paper so I cut out the matching part and glued it to the bottom of my blind to cover the string. Side view I had not cut my thread yet so extra long but when your blind is pulled up you may want to guide it to one side. I gently push it in near the top slat to hold it off to the side. When you trim your threads, pull it out all the way to make sure you have enough length. I tied tiny knots where I thought I wanted the length to be and then cut off the excess. Have fun creating your own special look!

Oh my love of enamelware 💓💓💓!!! I have now combined my two loves... Miniatures and Enamelware. It was bound to happen eventually right??...

Download and print these free miniature printables needlework samplers for your 1:6 or 1:12 scale dollhouse.

With just a few household items you already have at home, it is very easy to make your own realistic miniature candles for your dollhouse.

Whether you're brand new to the wonderful world of scale miniatures, or you've been knee deep in tiny things for years, there are so many facets to this hobby that there's always something new to discover. The Miniature Resources Series is your one stop shop to find amazing miniaturists, tutorials and more.Today's post is my favourite topic - miniature sewing. Here are 6 Top Tips for working with fabrics on a tiny scale.1) Type of fabric matters! For miniature patchwork try 100% cotton, ideally