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7 Toners You Can Use on Level 8 Hair

Having had a great question from one of our group members.......I have decided to answer it out here on the Blog. I just knew the question/answer would help a lot of people everywhere, so I am going to attempt to answer it with a crystal clear answer. Please continue to ask questions in the group until you understand it clearly. Remember no question. . . is a bad question....so keep them coming. My question is with developers. I understand that for each level of lift equals the number volume to use. Ex: 2 levels = 20 volume. I'm trying to get an existing level 6/7 to an 8/9. So to me, it's 3 levels of lift ( 6,7,8). I was using a 8N and 30 volume. I was getting a 7/8g it looked like to me. Was it coming out really brassy because I was over processing and using too high of a developer? I should of used an ash because of the underlying tones, but I want a gold. Should I use 8.01 or 8.1 and 20 volume instead? Hi S___. , Lets break your excellent question down. First off I don't know who told you that ratio on developers, but it is completely wrong. This is the correct ratio for them 10 Volume has '1/2'-1 Lift 20 Volume is 1 Level of Lift 30 Volume is 2 to 3 Levels of Lift 40 Volume is 3 to 4 Levels of Lift This particular Level "8" is the area that so many of you have problems with, its hard to make the change like you are trying to. I know it seems logical to use the hair color 'you want' to get the color you want.......BUT, that is the opposite of how hair color works. First, do you have Virgin hair? If you do, you would have 1 set of rules. If you have previously colored hair you would have completely other rules.We have talked about this exact topic many times before ..... But, anyway.... I guess it must seem ridiculous but the answers to the Killer 14 questions gets you the solution you want. You must take into account all the factors that are in the 14 questions in order to achieve your desired color. If you have VIRGIN color, then you only need 4 -5 of them! But, I would be sure on your hair by strand testing the color before hand. When you are choosing your hair color formula, you must take into account the color that are in the hair strands themselves. Hair Color is not solid when it goes on, it is transparent, like a nylon - - think of all the strands of your hair as legs - and your legs are the color you were born with - for you a Level 6.5. For this example you are saying your VIRGIN color is Level 6.5. You say that you "want gold"....you tried gold and it showed you just what I am trying to explain....you added Gold to hair that already had tons of gold in it. Everyone is different - therefore everyone has a different amount off gold and brass and orange and that is why there isn't 1 small book with how -to-color hair that everyone can use........There just are too many variables.... that very few people truly understand. But as the hair lightens - which is "LIFT" Here is the chart of how the hair lightens The hair contains ALL THE WARMTH- - ALL the Gold -- ALL the BLORANGE - - ALL the orange and all the red in the world already, so if it has the warmth, there is no need to add anymore. This one fact is why 1/2 the women at Target have brassy hair. This is why box color kits don't work......because they have not put the proper formula in the box, they add warmth to those formulas, in the bottle. There is no need to add more warmth.....see the level of hair on the left...........see the DURP : Dominant Underlying Remaining Pigment that appears as you "lift" (or lighten) the original hair color .... so you can see all the warmth in the hair appear as you lighten it...It differs from ethnicity's as well. Hispanic/Asian/Italians. So what I am saying is they developed the colors to work on white hair, which is why you must add a couple different colors to get the perfect result. Those tones you want are in the hair already...that is why I say the hair color is transparent So, for the rest of your questions.............yes, you could use one of 3 formula's...........try to get used to the idea that you do not pick your formula from the hair color swatches..........try picking it from your study of hair color formulating. I know its confusing.........it was confusing for me and every other person....I keep trying different methods of explaining it, because every one's brain works a different way. In 15 years in the Salon I never once used a color from the "G" category (so GOLD !) - even at the beginning when I was fresh out of 2 years at Vidal Sassoon....and without all the heads of hair of experience under my belt.....I would strand test all the time.....I started to realize in that first year that they must have put that category in the charts to appeal to every one's 'sense of color'. Sense is what appeals to you as you look at it, not what you should use because that is how the Universal hair color system works. So to get you your formula and hope just 1 more person now is closer to understanding how the Universal Level System, works.' Use Wella Koleston Perfect as it has nice medium blonde's You may use anyone of these 3 formula's (if you have virgin hair,only). The rules change when you have hair color on the hair - remember that....you have to remove the old hair color - and re-arrange the formula.... Now, if you really want to try this, I would highly recommend joining the new FACEBOOK GROUP ..I can't just give one formula as there are many things to consider, ESPECIALLY each person's DURP. please join the new FACEBOOK group and I will help you determine if this color will work on you -- Remember my saying .....not every person can be any color.! But if YOU can be A LEVEL 8, I will tell you. Remember ...........Strand Test .............Strand Test..........Strand Test ! I hope that helps and thanks for your Question . . .keep them coming. . . . KC Yes, she is correct 10 volume leaves a line of demarcation as does any Volume but 0!

There is n o t h i n g I love doing more than a beautiful blended lived in color, and Redken Shades EQ are the perfect color line