I love Gyarados! He's definitely one of my favorite Pokemon (I have a thing for water Pokemon). I really wanted to make a cute little Gyarados crochet pattern, most of the ones I could find were not exactly what I had in mind. So I set out to make my own pattern! But as I went, I realized I had misjudged the size - a lot. I kept going, though. I was really pleased with how he was shaping up, and that's how we ended up with the 40" long Gyarados wonder! I would like to say this pattern is advanced. Also, this post is very picture heavy. You'll need to know double crochet, slip stitch, increase, decrease, front loop only stitching, and triple crochet. You'll also need to know how to crochet in rounds, rows and magic circles. Personally, I wired my Gyarados so he could be posed and placed in different positions. I also needle felted his eyes, but you can easily do felt shapes and glue them on, or sew them on if you prefer. This pattern takes me about three full days of crochet and binge watching Netflix! You can make a regular Gyarados using blue yarn, or make a shiny Gyarados by using red instead! I made one of each, so the photos with the instructions may vary in color. Crochet Terms MR- Magic Ring SC - Single crochet INC - Increase DEC - Decrease DC - Double Crochet TC - Triple Crochet F/O - Finish off DC INC - Increase with double crochet TC INC - Increase with triple crochets SL ST - Slip Stitch FLO - Front loops only Number in "( )" at the end of each line is the total number of stitches that should be on that row Directions in "**" followed by a "x #" should be repeated the number of times indicated. For example : *SC, INC* x 6 (18) = SC, INC, SC, INC, SC, INC, SC, INC, SC, INC, SC, INC = 18 Materials Needed White, lemon, pink, dark teal and blue yarn, worsted weight (substitute red yarn instead of blue, and dark maroon instead of dark teal for a shiny Gyarados) *I use red heart Super Saver brand yarn 3 mm crochet hook yarn needle scissors Needle felting supplies or felt for the eyes, in red, black and white (substitute orange instead of red for shiny) Optional: Clothesline wire, or other wire or any joints you prefer to use in your amigurumi Large Gyarados Pattern Head - in blue (or red for shiny) MR 6 INC in each stitch round (12) *SC, INC* x 6 (18) *2 SC, INC* x 6 (24) *3 SC, INC* x 6 (30) *4 SC, INC* x 6 (36) *5 SC, INC* x 6 (42) *6 SC, INC* x 6 (48) *7 SC, INC* x 6 (54) *8 SC, INC* x 6 (60) *9 SC, INC* x 6 (66) *10 SC, INC* x 6 (72) 36 SC FLO, turn (36) 108 SC - when you reach the beginning of the last row simply continue around. You'll end up with a slope in your round. Do the same thing every time this happens and just continue in the rounds over uneven stitches to create a round. Turn. *5 SC, DEC* x 6 (30) 66 SC (66) 66 SC (66) *SC 9, DEC* x 6 (60) 60 SC (60) *3 SC, INC* x 3, *9 SC, DEC* x 3 (60) 60 SC (60) *3 SC, DEC* x 6, 29 SC, SL ST (54) Turn 17 SC, SL ST (18) Turn 54 SC (54) *7 SC, DEC* x 6 (48) *7 SC, DEC* x 3, *6 SC, INC* x 3 (48) *7 SC, DEC* x 3, *6 SC, INC* x 3 (48) *7 SC, DEC* x 3, *6 SC, INC* x 3 (48) *7 SC, DEC* x 3, *6 SC, INC* x 3 (48) *6 SC, DEC* x 6 (42) 4 SC, 3 DC, 2 SC, 3 DC, 4 SC (16) turn 4 SC, 3 DC, 2 SC, 3 DC, 28 SC (40) 4 SC, DEC over the 3 DC, 2 SC, DEC over the 3 DC, 10 SC, 14 DC, 5 SC, SL ST (41) turn 6 SL ST, 14 DC (20) turn SC 14 (14) turn SC 14 (14) turn SC 14 (14) turn SC 14 (14) turn SC 14 (14) turn SC 14 (14) turn SC 14 (14) F/O Facial Spike A - Make two in blue (red for shiny) MR 4 (4) 4 SC (4) 4 SC (4) *INC, SC* x 2 (6) *INC, 2 SC* x 2 (8) *3 SC, INC* x 2 (10) 10 SC (10) F/O leaving a tail for sewing later. Facial Spike B - Make two in blue (red for shiny) MR 5 (5) INC, 4 SC (6) *INC, 2 SC* x 2 (8) 8 SC (8) *INC, 3 SC* x 2 (10) F/O leaving a tail for sewing later. Facial Spike C - Make two in blue (red for shiny) MR 5 (5) INC, 4 SC (6) *INC, 2 SC* x 2 (8) *INC, 3 SC* x 2 (10) *INC, 4 SC* x 2 (12) F/O leaving a tail for sewing later. Whiskers - Make two in blue (red for shiny) MR 3 - 31. SC 3 (90 SC in rounds) F/O leaving a tail for sewing later Mouth - in black - work in ROWS Chain 14, turn 14 SC (14) 14 SC (14) 14 SC (14) 14 SC (14) 14 SC (14) 14 SC (14) 14 SC (14) 14 SC (14) FLO 14 SC (14) 14 SC (14) 14 SC (14) 14 SC (14) 14 SC (14) 14 SC (14) 14 SC (14) F/O Tongue - in pink MR 6 (6) INC in each stitch round (12) *SC, INC* x 6 (18) *2 SC, INC* x 6 (24) 24 SC (24) 24 SC (24) 24 SC (24) 24 SC (24) 24 SC (24) 24 SC (24) F/O leaving a tail for sewing later Lips - in lemon 5 SC, join last CH to first CH to make a circle of 5 CH (5) - work in rounds now, forming a tube - 71. 5 SC (5) - this equals 350 SC in rounds F/O - Sew the ends together to create a circle. Middle Facial Spike (Center) - in dark teal (maroon for shiny) Stuff as you go! MR 6 (6) *INC, SC* x 3 (9) *INC, 2 SC* x 3 (12) 12 SC (12) 12 SC (12) 12 SC (12) *4 SC, DEC* x 2 (10) 10 SC (10) 10 SC (10) 10 SC (10) 10 SC (10) 10 SC (10) *DEC, 3 SC* x 2 (8) 8 SC (8) 8 SC (8) 8 SC (8) *DEC, 2 SC* x 2 (6) 6 SC (6) 6 SC (6) 6 SC (6) 6 SC (6) 6 SC (6) *DEC, SC* x 2 (4) 4 SC (4) 4 SC (4) 4 SC (4) 4 SC (4) 4 SC (4) 4 SC (4) DEC, DEC (2) F/O Middle Facial Spike (Sides) - make two in dark teal (maroon for shiny) MR 4 (4) 4 SC (4) 4 SC (4) 4 SC (4) *INC, SC* x 2 (6) 6 SC (6) 6 SC (6) 6 SC (6) *INC, 2 SC* x 2 (8) 8 SC (8) 8 SC (8) 8 SC (8) 8 SC (8) 8 SC (8) *INC, 3 SC* x 2 (10) 10 SC (10) 10 SC (10) 5 SC (5) turn SC, DEC, 2 SC (4) turn DEC, DEC (2) F/O, leaving a tail for sewing later Stuff and then sew the two side spikes on opposite sides of the larger end of the middle spike. Teeth - in white - make four and work in ROWS CH 4, turn 3 SC, first SC in 2nd CH from hook (3) 3 SC (3) DEC, SC (2) DEC (1) F/O . Fold each tooth in half, whip stitch up the side. Side Head Fin - begin in blue (red for shiny) - make two MR 3 (3) 3 SC (3) 3 SC (3) 3 SC (3) 3 SC (3) 3 SC (3) 3 SC (3) 3 SC (3) 3 SC (3) 3 SC (3) Keep connected to the skein of yarn. Begin separately in white , work in ROWS for this section CH 11, turn 9 DC, First DC in 3rd CH from hook counts as first DC (9) turn *2 DC, INC* x 3 (12) *3 DC, INC* x 3 (15) *4 DC, INC* x 3 (18) DC INC, 3 DC, 3 SC, 2 DC, DC INC, 2 DC, 2 SC, DC, DC INC, 2 DC (21) turn CH 3 (counts as first TC), 2 TC, 2 DC, SC, 2 SL ST, 2 DC, INC TC, 2 DC, 2 SL ST, 3 DC, 3 TC (22) F/O Take the red piece of the fin and continue SC up the top of the white piece of the fin. Whip stitch the rest of the red piece down the side of the white to complete the fin. Assembling the head: Stuff the main part of the head. Whip stitch the mouth to the head, with the longer part of the mouth facing downward. Sew the tongue into the mouth on the fold, making sure not to go through to the underside of the jaw. Next, sew the lips to the mouth. Take two teeth and sew them to the top of the mouth on opposite sides. Do not sew all the way through the lips. Next, take side spikes A, B, and C. They will be sewn to each side of the head. Spike A will be the top spike, B in the middle, and C closest to the mouth, as shown below. Next, sew the eyebrow spike to the center of the face, just above the nose. Once this is in place, you can needle felt the eyes or use felt to glue or sew the eyes in place. Use red for a regular gyarados' eyes, or use orange for a shiny gyarados. I have seen both red and orange used for a shiny gyarados' eyes. Flip the head over and sew the fins behind the side head spikes. Next, you will have to cut a length of clothesline wire the length of both whiskers plus the jaw. Slip the wire into one of the whisker "tubes", and then through the jaw underneath the fins. Slip the other whisker onto the other side of the wire. Whip stitch the ends of the whiskers to the jaw to keep them in place, and bend the wire into "S" shapes. The head is complete! The body: Underbelly and back- Complete the underbelly in yellow, and the back in red or blue based on shiny or regular gyarados. CH 5 and turn First SC in second CH from hook, 4 SC (4) *INC, SC* x 2 (6) *INC, SC* x 3 (9) 9 SC (9) 9 SC (9) 9 SC (9) *SC, DEC* x 3 (6) *INC, SC* x 3 (9) *2 SC, INC* x 3 (12) 12 SC (12) 12 SC (12) 12 SC (12) 12 SC (12) *2 SC, DEC* x 3 (9) *SC, DEC* x 3 (6) *SC, INC* x 3 (9) *2 SC, INC* x3 (12) 12 SC (12) 12 SC (12) 12 SC (12) 12 SC (12) *2 SC, DEC* x 3 (9) *SC, DEC* x 3 (6) *SC, INC* x 3 (9) *2 SC, INC* x 3 (12) *3 SC, INC* x 3 (15) 15 SC (15) 15 SC (15) 15 SC (15) 15 SC (15) 15 SC (15) 15 SC (15) *3 SC, DEC* x 3 (12) *3 SC, INC* x 3 (15) *4 SC, INC* x 3 (18) 18 SC (18) 18 SC (18) 18 SC (18) 18 SC (18) 18 SC (18) 18 SC (18) 18 SC (18) 18 SC (18) *4 SC, DEC* x 3 (15) *3 SC, DEC* x 3 (12) - Repeat lines 35 - 46 *3 SC, INC* x 3 (15) *4 SC, INC* x 3 (18) 18 SC (18) 18 SC (18) 18 SC (18) 18 SC (18) 18 SC (18) 18 SC (18) 18 SC (18) 18 SC (18) *4 SC, DEC* x 3 (15) *4 SC, INC* x 3 (18) *5 SC, INC* x 3 (21) 21 SC (21) 21 SC (21) 21 SC (21) 21 SC (21) 21 SC (21) 21 SC (21) 21 SC (21) 21 SC (21) 21 SC (21) 21 SC (21) *5 SC, DEC* x 3 (18) *4 SC, DEC* x 3 (15) - Repeat lines 58-71 four more times *4 SC, INC* x 3 (18) *5 SC, INC* x 3 (21) 21 SC (21) 21 SC (21) 21 SC (21) 21 SC (21) 21 SC (21) 21 SC (21) 21 SC (21) 21 SC (21) 21 SC (21) 21 SC (21) *5 SC, DEC* x 3 (18) F/O for the underbelly. Continue for the back. 18 SC (18) *5 SC, INC* x 3 (21) *6 SC, INC* x 3 (24) *7 SC, INC* x 3 (27) *8 SC, INC* x 3 (30) *9 SC, INC* x 3 (33) *10 SC, INC* x 3 (36) *11 SC, INC* x 3 (39) *12 SC, INC* x 3 (42) *13 SC, INC* x 3 (45) *14 SC, INC* x 3 (48) *15 SC, INC* x 3 (51) 15 SC, DC INC, 8 DC, TC INC, TC, 7 DC, DC INC, 16 SC (54) 17 SC, DC INC, 2 DC, 6 TC, TC INC, 7 TC, 2 DC, DC INC, 17 SC (57) F/O Tail Fin Middle - in blue (red for shiny). Stuff as you go! MR 6 *INC* x 6 (6) *INC, SC* x 6 (18) 18 SC (18) 18 SC (18) *DEC, SC* x 6 (12) 12 SC (12) 12 SC (12) 12 SC (12) 12 SC (12) *DEC, 4 SC* x 2 (10) 10 SC (10) 10 SC (10) *DEC, 3 SC* x 2 (8) 8 SC (8) 8 SC (8) 8 SC (8) *DEC, 2 SC* x 2 (6) 6 SC (6) 6 SC (6) *DEC, SC* x 2 (4) 4 SC (4) *DEC* x 2 (2) F/O Tail Fin Sides - in white, make two CH 2, turn SC (1) INC (2) *INC* x 2 (4) *INC, SC* x 2 (6) 6 SC (6) *INC, 2 SC* x2 (8) 8 SC (8) *INC, 4 SC* x 2 (10) 10 SC (10) 10 SC (10) *INC, 4 SC* x 2 (12) 12 SC (12) 12 SC (12) *INC, 5 SC* x 2 (14) 14 SC (14) 14 SC (14) 14 SC (14) 14 SC (14) 14 SC (14) SC, 2 DC, TC, DC, SC, 2 TC, SC, DC, 2 TC, DC, SC (14) SC, DC, 2 TC, DC, SC, 2 TC, SC, DC, 2 TC, DC, SC (14) F/O SC in red up a side of a white tail fin piece (as shown below). You will then attach it to the larger part of the middle piece and SC 3-4 stitches to the other side. Then SC down the side of the other fin. Then whip stitch the fins to the center piece to create one tail. Back Spots A - Make 8 in yellow CH 5 turn 4 SC (first SC in 2nd CH from hook) (4) 4 SC (4) 4 SC (4) SC, 2 DC, SC (4) F/O Back Spots B - Make 8 in yellow CH 4 turn 3 SC (first SC in second CH from hook) (3) 3 SC (3) 3 SC (3) SC, DC, SC (3) F/O Back Spots C- Make 8 in yellow CH 4, turn SC 3 (first SC in second CH from hook) (3) F/O Back Fin 1 Part 1- Make four in white MR 3 3 SC (3) 3 SC (3) INC, SC (4) *INC, SC* x 2 (6) *2 SC, INC* x 2 (8) F/O Back Fin 1 Part 2 - Make two in white MR 4 4 SC (4) INC, 3 SC (5) INC, 4 SC (6) 6 SC (6) 6 SC (6) *INC, 2 SC* x 2 (8) 8 SC (8) 8 SC (8) *INC, 3 SC* x 2 (10) 10 SC (10) 10 SC (10) 10 SC (10) Join two spike 1 and one spike 2 together by SC around 26, with the tallest spike in the middle. (26) DEC, 7 SC, DEC, 3 SC, DEC, 6 SC, DEC, 3 SC (22) 22 SC (22) 22 SC (22) 3 SC, INC, 9 SC, INC, 8 SC (24) F/O Take the other two spike part 1's and the other spike part 2 and repeat steps 14-18. You should end up with two three grouped spikes that are identical. Back Fin 2 - in white MR 4 4 SC (4) 4 SC (4) *INC, SC* x 2 (6) 6 SC (6) F/O Begin another spike separately MR 4 *INC, SC* x 2 (6) *INC, 2 SC* x 2 (8) 8 SC (8) Join the first spike with this one by SC 14 (14) *DEC, 5 SC* x 2 (12) 12 SC (12) *2 SC, INC* x 4 (16) *7 SC, INC* x 2 (18) 18 SC (18) *INC,8 SC* x 2 (20) 20 SC (20) SC to the corner of the taller spike (about 12 SC) F/O Begin another spike separately MR 3 INC, 2 SC (4) INC, 3 SC (5) INC, 4 SC (6) 6 SC (6) 6 SC (6) *INC, 2 SC* x 2 (8) *INC, 3 SC* x 2 (10) Join to the main spikes with SC 30 around (30) 30 SC (30) DEC, 8 SC, DEC, 18 SC (28) SC around to opposite corner (about SC 8) F/O Begin another spike separately MR 3 3 SC (3) INC, 2 SC (4) 4 SC (4) *INC, SC* x 2 (6) Join spikes with 34 SC (34) DEC, 5 SC, DEC, 25 SC (32) 32 SC (32) F/O Back Fin 3- in white MR 3 3 SC (3) 3 SC (3) INC, 2 SC (4) 4 SC (4) 4 SC (4) F/O Begin a new spike separately. Make two. MR 4 4 SC (4) *INC, SC* x 2 (6) F/O Join one of the smaller spikes to the first larger spike with 10 SC (10) DEC, 6 SC, join the second smaller spike beside the smaller spike with 15 SC (15) 15 SC (15) F/O Assembling the body: Begin with the back piece. You will be sewing all of the back spots to the back piece. Begin at the tail. There will be two spots on each bump of the body. Place the spots at the decrease of each bump right before the next. Use the photos for placement help if you need it! You will place the spots about one stitch away from the edge. The smallest ones, back spots C, will be placed on the first four bumps of the body. The next four bumps will have back spots B, and the four bumps after that will have back spots A. Place the belly and back together with edge matching up starting at the tail. Whip stitch up one edge. Next, you'll need to cut a piece of clothesline wire twice the length of the body, and twist the two ends together to form an oval. Place this inside of the body, and finish whip stitching up the other side of the body, stuffing around the wire as you go! This will allow you to pose the body in those great gyarados waves! Once the body is stuffed, you can whip stitch the tail fin to the tail of the body. Now focus on the nape of the neck. You'll fold back the extra portion of the back towards the rest of the body, and then tuck in each side where the flap angles downward. Use the photo above to help with shaping! Now take spike one of the Spike 1's you made and sew it in the very middle of the folded back portion of the body. This is the spike that goes directly behind gyarados's head. At this point you can also tack down with matching yarn the folds in the flaps. I usually use two points on each flap for tacking it down. You can now sew on the rest of the spikes to the body! The second spike 1 will go on the second bump from the head, directly behind the spike you just sewed on. Spike 2 will go on the fifth bump from the head, and spike 3 will go on the third bump from the tail tip. All you have to do now is sew his head onto his body! And congratulations! After days (weeks, months) of toiling and crocheting, you have your own amazing gyarados! I'd love to see pictures if anyone else completes him! I also tried my best to edit and be thorough, but if you find an error in this pattern please let me know!
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This is an authentic Gyarados Plush Pokémon fit from Pokémon Center in Japan.
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Réimaginer des concepts déjà établis existe depuis longtemps. Dans l'univers artistique, des mash-up
This is a holographic Magikarp and gyarados Pokémon card, designed by me and printed in a factory. The size of the card varies slightly because I cut the cards myself. Each card is made of a base card and a layer where the art is printed on. To keep your card in great condition it is recommended you leave it in a sleeve. I also advise to keep the card away from extreme heat and cold. This item will be shipped in a protective sleeve in an envelope with cardboard. Since shipping cost is a huge difference in price between Standard shipping and shipping with Track & Trace here in the Netherlands. I will ship all the cards WITHOUT track & trace. If you do want Track & Trace It will be a shipping upgrade option