This post provides my insights and lessons learned about the fit and construction of a Regency period chemise. I certainly wouldn’t tout myself as a chemise making expert, as this is my first, bu…
A late medieval linen supportive skin-layer garment.
Language is a funny thing. I suppose we’re all guilty of following fads in our choice of words, and we all have particular phrases we find irritating or amusing – in other people. I re…
Quadripartite Indenture (the 'Harley Indenture') London, 1504 British Library, Harley 1498 Back binding of the indenture, Harley 1498 Very few medieval or Tudor bindings survive; this is a particularly impressive example. It is a ‘chemise’ binding (or cloth cover) in red velvet lined with damask that may have been imported...
If you’re working to normal human sizes, you an probably do all this on the machine. I’m not going to do any sort of sealing
There are so many different methods for finishing your neck and arm openings! Shown above (top to bottom) is Single Fold Binding, normal Neckband, Double...
This pattern is for a knee-length chemise with short sleeves, adapted from one published in Peterson’s Ladies Magazine in 1860. The chemise was worn next to the skin and protected your clothing from perspiration and body odors. TSU-030 Chemise has a formed yoke in the front and a straight yoke across the back, giving the garment a wider neckline so it will not conflict with the neck opening of your regular bodices. The short sleeves allow for arm movement and do not bind on the arm. Included are many different trim ideas from simple pin-tucks to laces and ribbon combinations to complete the look of your chemise. If you are looking for a chemise to fit under the wider necklines of a ball gown or a sheer dress please check out TSU-031 Banded Chemise: https://www.etsy.com/listing/583044327/banded-chemise-19th-century-underpinning?ref=shop_home_active_1 Sizing: This pattern is available in two size groups. Please use your the largest of your BUST, WAIST or HIP measurement to decide your pattern choice. Pattern Requirements: 2 - 2 1/2 Yards of 45” wide cotton Trims of choice This listing is for a hard copy pattern and not a finished garment. TIMELESS STITCHES PATTERNS are a line of accurate, interesting and informative patterns for those wishing to create garments from a prior period in time. We offer men's, women's and children's sewing patterns. The patterns are easy to follow with illustrated directions and information about your garments as well as different options and ideas for fabric and trims. Patterns are sized so that they fit most bodies, and as many sizes as possible are included in each pattern. You are purchasing this pattern directly from the designer and not a secondary source. We provide contact information with every pattern so you can contact us if you have any questions. If you would like a current pattern catalog in booklet format as a digital download, please check out this listing: https://www.etsy.com/listing/568406446/timeless-stitches-patterns-catalog?ref=related-8 We welcome any questions you may have about the garment or its construction methods. Thank you for taking the time to look at our listing.
Here come the photos of the first garments that I've actually finished this year. It's such a relief to get something done completely because my projects haven't exactly gone smoothly in the past four months, which has resulted in leaving me with more UFOs than, well, ever before. That's also why I didn't post anything for a while, but I guess that happens to most of us sometimes, right? :) Let's start with having a look at the front of the stays. I'm actually really happy I put more bones into the front panels of the stays than in the original pattern because I'm almost certain that there would be more creasing if I hadn't done so. Plus, the extra bones support the bust from below without making the stays any less comfortable. Should I ever make another pair of stays with this pattern, I might place the cups slightly closer to the center front because it's just not possible for my breasts to be quite this far apart - even if the aim is to get that separation effect. The issue doesn't really show much on the photos and I'm quite sure you can't tell once I'm wearing a gown on top of the stays so right now I'm just going to stick with this pair. Also, adding more width to the lower part of the cups might help with the creasing that you can see at the front. Now we can also compare the results with a period engraving which is actually around ten years later than my transitional stays - but the shape that the stays provide looks basically the same, doesn't it? The Ladies' Dress Maker, from "Book of English Trades", 1811. The shape of the cups is controlled on top with drawstrings that run under the twill tape binding. Maybe you already noticed that there are actually modern underwires under the cups to support the breasts. Since it looks like there are bones under the cups of the trasitional stays on the MET, I thought I might get away with using them. :) Unfortunately the photos of the back of the stays were unsuccessful so I'll have to try to get photos of it some other time and add them to the blog later. :/ I also made a under-petticoat. At first I wanted to make a bodiced petticoat but then, I really liked the petticoat Merja made for her riding habit, and eventually decided to leave the bodice out so that I wouldn't have to worry about the length of it. I actually didn't sew the shoulder straps into the waist tape of the petticoat at front either - they are only pinned so I can adjust the back depending on how high or low it should be. The front of the petticoat is almost triangular so that the petticoat gets wider towards the hem and there's no gathering at waist, which helps to create a smooth figure without making you look like you're larger than you actually are. The back is gathered to the waist tape only in the middle, but not on sides. And finally, here's the side view. The petticoat is a bit too long so I will probably have to make it shorter by making a tuck at the hem but after that I'm ready to move on! :)
The shift or chemise was the basic undergarment, common to all women. The one here is copied from an 1830s original that I own. The chemise has a wide shallow neckline that fastens with a single china button, accommodating the typical necklines of 1830s day gowns. The sleeves are short and fit closely to the arm, and have a square gusset sewn in at the underarm. The body of the chemise is softly gathered into the neckline yoke, and features reinforcement panels at the underarm seam, as in the original. Everything is beautifully and meticulously handsewn. The chemise will fit a bust measurement of 36" (92cm), bicep of 11"(27.5cm), length from shoulder to hem 44"(112cm). It is shown here with the replica drawers that are also for sale.
Here come the photos of the first garments that I've actually finished this year. It's such a relief to get something done completely because my projects haven't exactly gone smoothly in the past four months, which has resulted in leaving me with more UFOs than, well, ever before. That's also why I didn't post anything for a while, but I guess that happens to most of us sometimes, right? :) Let's start with having a look at the front of the stays. I'm actually really happy I put more bones into the front panels of the stays than in the original pattern because I'm almost certain that there would be more creasing if I hadn't done so. Plus, the extra bones support the bust from below without making the stays any less comfortable. Should I ever make another pair of stays with this pattern, I might place the cups slightly closer to the center front because it's just not possible for my breasts to be quite this far apart - even if the aim is to get that separation effect. The issue doesn't really show much on the photos and I'm quite sure you can't tell once I'm wearing a gown on top of the stays so right now I'm just going to stick with this pair. Also, adding more width to the lower part of the cups might help with the creasing that you can see at the front. Now we can also compare the results with a period engraving which is actually around ten years later than my transitional stays - but the shape that the stays provide looks basically the same, doesn't it? The Ladies' Dress Maker, from "Book of English Trades", 1811. The shape of the cups is controlled on top with drawstrings that run under the twill tape binding. Maybe you already noticed that there are actually modern underwires under the cups to support the breasts. Since it looks like there are bones under the cups of the trasitional stays on the MET, I thought I might get away with using them. :) Unfortunately the photos of the back of the stays were unsuccessful so I'll have to try to get photos of it some other time and add them to the blog later. :/ I also made a under-petticoat. At first I wanted to make a bodiced petticoat but then, I really liked the petticoat Merja made for her riding habit, and eventually decided to leave the bodice out so that I wouldn't have to worry about the length of it. I actually didn't sew the shoulder straps into the waist tape of the petticoat at front either - they are only pinned so I can adjust the back depending on how high or low it should be. The front of the petticoat is almost triangular so that the petticoat gets wider towards the hem and there's no gathering at waist, which helps to create a smooth figure without making you look like you're larger than you actually are. The back is gathered to the waist tape only in the middle, but not on sides. And finally, here's the side view. The petticoat is a bit too long so I will probably have to make it shorter by making a tuck at the hem but after that I'm ready to move on! :)
Peasant tops are making a comeback at the moment. With its signature, bohemian-enthused aesthetic, Clara peasant blouse is the perfect choice of clothing for summer and a great way to add some effortless chic to your everyday wardrobe. Plus, a peasant top made from linen makes so much sense! Linen fabric is breathable, allowing air...
As I had my sewing steam up from the crinoline and bustle challenge, I decided to push on and start on the next HSF challenge as well. I had no previous plan for the nr 13. Under 10 Usd. When setti…
I have nearly completed the cotton voile underdress for my sheer striped gown inspired by the “Portrait of a Lady with a Book, Next to a River Source” by Antoine Vestier. I still have to hem the bo…
I have nearly completed the cotton voile underdress for my sheer striped gown inspired by the “Portrait of a Lady with a Book, Next to a River Source” by Antoine Vestier. I still have to hem the bo…
This was the first piece of my wardrobe I made, and looking back now I can see how bad it is! After I came home with the fabric for my chemise, panniers and stays, I was eager to get started. Made from a fine white cotton, the pattern is Variation A from La Couturière Parisienne, originally from Garsault's L'art de la lingère I believe. The chemise is stitched in the most awful silvery polyester thread. Wanting to get started and having no white or cream thread in the house, I used some I got for free with my very first sewing machine. Needless to say it looks terrible, but only up close. The sleeve length and width are slightly off for the 1780's. Longer and narrower sleeves would have been better, but I can also wear this with earlier shorter sleeved dresses. The cuff placket is undocumented, but I liked the idea of finishing the sleeves with a little bit of ribbon. The neckline is a rounded square, but gathered slightly with matching ribbon. It works nicely with the neckline of my stays, and I didn't have the stays made up to trace an exact neckline anyway. The neckline is edged with 1cm wide cotton lace. In La Couturière Parisienne's tutorial there is mention of lawn or batiste ruffles around the neckline. Somehow I misinterpreted this as there being lace around the neckline...the effect is quite appealing, if totally inaccurate. Despite all of this, they do their job well enough. Time will tell if the sleeve ribbons will get in the way or if the cotton lace will itch, but I do like my little mutant chemise. After completing my first Robe L'anglaise I want to go back and make a proper chemise to atone for my sins. Fine linen, hand sewn and no silver thread in sight.
30+ DIY college halloween costumes for girls that include sexy costumes, fun halloween costume ideas, your favorite characters, and more!
Rimini is a loose and airy shirt model. It is inspired by period dresses with multiple gathers and crazy volumes. The touch of originality is brought by the cutout of the back and the yokes on the shoulders, giving it more breadth. The officer collar and the rectangular button tabs at the cuffs bring a more classic look. Fluid fabrics such as viscose, liberty, cotton veil or light cotton suit it perfectly. Just a ruler nothing too thick! Advanced level. 2 ranges of sizes available: Range 1: from size 34 to 46. Range 2: from size 46 to 58. If you hesitate between the two ranges, refer to the measurement tables. Material: Fabric : -Range 1: from 210cm to 240cm in 140cm width. -Range 2: 330cm in 140cm width. -13 buttons from 1.2cm to 1.5cm in diameter. - iron-on according to your fabric. PDF = Explanations + A4 and A0 pattern. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Rimini is a loose and airy shirt model. It's inspired by period dresses with multiple gathers and volumes of madness. The touch of originality is brought by the cut of the back and the yokes on the shoulders, giving it more stature. The officer collar and sleeve plackets at the cuffs bring a more classic look. Fluid fabrics such as viscose, liberty, cotton voile or light cotton suit it perfectly. Just one rule - nothing too thick! Advanced level. 2 size ranges available: Range 1: US: 2-14 / UK: 6-18 Range 2: US: 14-26 / UK: 18-30 If you hesitate between the two ranges, please refer to the measurement charts. Material: Fabric: -Range 1: from 210cm to 240cm in 140cm width. -Range 2: 330cm in 140cm width. -13 buttons from 1.2cm to 1.5cm in diameter. Iron-on according to your fabric. PDF = Explanations + pattern A4 and A0.
The first thing I needed for my Borgia dress was a new chemise. I wanted one with lots of floowy fabrics and huge sleeves to pouf through the holes in the outer dress. Not as fancy as this one, but…
Les manches à agrandir toujours avec la même méthode: agrandir son mini patron puis on découpe par 2 les manches , on surjette les bords ^^ on va aussi agrandir en taille réelle la petite pièc…
So, I really seem to be a lot about the 4th quarter of the 18th century these days – and there’s more to come! Back in the spring I crossed another style off the wishlist: a 1780s Chemi…
Handmade Regency Chemise made to order either with short sleeves or sleeveless. Made from 100% Cotton Lawn with a ribbon or cord tie. Can be made from Linen, just contact me if you require a colour other than white. Now available in Cotton Dobby fabric which can be bought by the metre here: https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/745976270/100-cotton-dobby-lightweight-cotton Seams are machine sewn and flat felled and hems are hand finished. Can be entirely hand sewn if required for a fee, just contact me. To be worn under short stays for the true regency silhouette. See listing below to purchase short stays. https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/459992597/regency-short-stays-in-linen-costume?ref=shop_home_active_10
