Good Morning All!!! Playing around with darts is something I have enjoyed from the first moment I began to learn anything about pattern drafting. I'm sure you've seen pictures like the one below, inte

not that I needed miniature jeans in any project, but just HAD to make them. Only because last year I suddenly thought of how impossible it seemed to me to make a realistic pair of jeans in miniature. It just wouldn't leave me.. Surprising what can keep a person busy, right? But won't sound strange to you at all, I'm sure ;) so I went thinking of a way it might be possible, by using a pair of my own, camera, computer, printing fabric, some other items and a lot more patience than I ever thought needed for this miniature. (very) long story short: quite the challenge, that must have left me a grey hair or many, haha. All the preparations alone took many many hours in several months. This is the third pair I made in fabric, since I couldn't finish the first two to my satisfaction and mistakes were very easily made, no matter how careful I was. But isn't the endresult great?! If I may say so myself...... :) next photo's are from before I fixated it, so you can see some other perspectives and details (for as far possible on photo) here you can see the inside of the back see the zipperpart on the inside too? And the labels with behind it, the insides of the front (the pockets). these jeans consist of 30 different parts. All pockets are usable - as far as such tiny pockets are useful for anything ;). I made zipperparts and a (1,2mmx0,6mm for the widest part) zipperpull. The inside of the front has labels, although unfortunately hardly any print is visible. I also made a buttonhole, where the button can actually go through to close the jeans, but this is not only very difficult to do, but the force you need to do that rips the top of the jeans apart from the rest and scrapes the 'copper' of the button (I used a goldcolored flat headpin on which I applied embossingpowder for a more rounded jeansbutton-look), so I can't show (I tried it with the jeans not complete and I almost ruined it doing that.. It's just too small and delicate). the belt I made from a piece of thin leather and a beltbuckle I ordered. I once tried to make a beltbuckle from very thin metal, but I couldn't get it even near acceptable. I colored this one with some patina and blackwash for more depth and made a flat 'pin' to put in the holes of the belt (a tiny piece of tealightcupmetal folded at the sides, flattened and with a slight curve, placing it around the 'bar' of the buckle) the buckle as I bought it and what I made of it (just the belt'pin' and some color in the engravings) with the belt attached all the 'props' are made by me: the 'furry' stool, the coatrack with 'rusted' brackets and hooks, the canvasses (printed on fabric & mounted on wood), and a simple cardboardcorner dressed with 'weathered' floorboards, aged baseboards and 'wallpaper'

I knew that I shouldn't let Tessie wander off by herself. She is still not back..... I was starting to worry until her dragon flew in and dropped a rock, with a note attached, onto my head about fifteen minutes ago. It says, and I quote, "I am having too much fun with the rest of the witches. I am not leaving until about midnight. Don't worry. I should be home by the time that you get up in the morning. I expect the teashop to be in order when I get back. You are working on it, aren't you?" And it was signed,"Tessie The Terrible!". I showed her! I haven't done a lick of work on the tea shop all day. I did some yard work and then I started deep cleaning the kitchen. I found stuff in the back of cupboards that I suspect Tessie bought and stored away. I certainly don't remember buying pickled bat ears! It was a very tiny can, so it had to be hers. Anyway, since I don't have any work to show you, I will do the best I can with a couple of photos of old work and several websites to keep you busy. First the photos. This is a 1/4" scale adobe house that I scaled down from a half inch pattern in Nutshell News years ago. The whole building is about 5 1/2" square(including the front patio) and 2 1/2" high. It is constructed from 3/8" foam core and the beams are very thin barbecue skewers. The windows are made of plastic canvas painted black. I made all of the furniture and accessories inside. This last photo is of the wicker chair that sits on the front porch. It is made of sewing thread and #32 jeweler's wire. It is between 1/2" and 3/4" high. Sorry about the fuzzy photo. I didn't have time to drag out the tripod. Now about the websites.... http://www.frillsandfancyezine.com/ This one is a wonderful doll magazine with all kinds of useful information in the back issues. A lot of them are either for mini dolls or can be adapted. http://home.mindspring.com/~byrachelle/id9.html This one is a tutorial on how do do a nightgown that looks like it is smocked. http://mishellyszoo.homestead.com/diyprojects.html Miss Shelly has been around for years, but her project page should be checked out every once in a while. She does put new things on and they are always fun to play with. I am now going to go ignore the teashop and do some more kitchen cupboard cleaning. See you tomorrow. Hopefully Tessie will have returned..... Oops! I mean Tessie The Terrible!

Order $35 and over ship free to US buyers ( HI and AK are not included） Order $40 and over ship free to buyers from other countries (Main countries in Europe, UK, Canada, Australia etc) -------------------------------------------------------------------------- This item is mini garment prototype patteren made in plastic, including front ， back and sleeve size 1) 1: 4 scale , for 43~45cm (1/4 scale) BJD dolls 2) 1:3 scale , for 58-65cm (1/3 scale or uncle ) BJD doll 3-5 working days for preparation

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Download pattern to sew a 6" (15 cm) man, 5.5" (14 cm) woman, 4" (10 cm) child, and 2.25" (6 cm) baby. Make these 1:12 scale mini mannequins with flexible wire armatures, needle sculpted details, and natural proportions. Intermediate doll making skill and basic sewing skills by hand and machine are required. Detailed drawings and step-by-step instructions are given for making armatures, sewing, stuffing, and shaping the figure. Basic face painting instructions, and suggestions for hair materials, are included. English language. ***Recommended fabrics: cotton Doll Jersey (De Witte Engel) or polyester Dolskin and Windsor knit (Dollmakers Journey). Use a fine knit fabric with moderate stretch, about 40% across and 20% lengthwise. Using other fabrics will make the doll thicker or thinner than the original design. Fabric 9" x 24" (22 cm x 60 cm) will make one family. ***The PDF digital file will be available for you to download after payment. To download, please sign in to Etsy on your mobile browser or computer; the App will not work. Pattern is full size for you to print on 8.5"x11" (letter size) paper. ***This pattern may not be reproduced for sale, sharing or use by others. You may sell what you make. Please give design credit to Prairie Crocus Studio. See my fabrics here: www.etsy.com/ca/shop/PrairieCrocusStudio?section_id=15259540 See more 1:12 scale dolls here: www.etsy.com/ca/shop/PrairieCrocusStudio?section_id=14161171 See 1:12 scale patterns here: www.etsy.com/ca/shop/PrairieCrocusStudio?section_id=14669800 Visit my shop for more dolls, patterns, and supplies: www.etsy.com/ca/shop/PrairieCrocusStudio Item ID: PCS-MM-PD12F

1/6 scale doll clothes and photo made by Hegemony77

I was playing around with Inkscape and I ended up making a set of printable French curves. I really like how the curve turned out. I made full size, half scale, 3/8 scale, 0.39 scale (1 cm = 1 inch…

Doll body comparison photo - Momoko Fruit of Passion - 1/6 scale female figure Sucker Punch Babydoll (Sideshow Collectibles, Hot Toys) - Barbie Belly Button - Fashion Royalty Mission Control Imogen - 10th Anniversary Veronique Perrin FR2 Forever Doll - Unique quality one-sixth scale clothes made by www.hegemony77.com

I have additional patterns for DIY mini dress forms on Craftsy and Etsy. If you want to sew a dress form, take a look at my Mini Stuffed Dress Form pattern. I have a paper version of the half scale…

I've been messing around with this idea for awhile, using paper to upholster a chair. I know fabric is sometimes hard to come by. I keep trying to direct you all to quilt shops. They will have the 100% percent cotton that will always glue for you. The Goodwill and other thrift stores are a good place to look, too. Silk blouses are really cheap there and that's a good fabric to use, too. Silk ties are a good source of fabric if you like the design. You would need a couple of them for a chair, though. I went to Michaels and bought a tablet of scrap book paper to use. My Michaels was woefully low on separate sheets so I settled on a $5.00 special tablet. This won't be for everyone but I thought I would give it a try for something different. Here are your patterns for a chair. Use the directions in the "Things to do, Things to see" list at the left of the blog "HOW TO RE-SIZE THE PATTERNS" to get them to 1 inch scale. Print them out onto card stock to trace your patterns. I have included an alternate back and back cushion if some of you want a single back instead of a two part back. Always dry fit your parts. This is important to do before you are committed with glue. Of course my paper was double sided. I tried a few methods to get the two layers apart. The best method was to wad the paper up a few times to loosen the layers; I then carefully pulled the layers apart. If you try this with single layer paper you don't have to do this step. The ball on the left is when I began with both layers together. The ball on the right is after I carefully wadded and un-wadded the paper. You will have to spend time on the wadding and un-wadding to get the paper soft and pliable. After I got the paper soft and pliable I ironed it with steam on a cotton setting. The paper is still pliable enough to use. This ironing took a lot of the wrinkles out. I would think that paper has it's differences and this method may not work on all scrap booking paper. To build the chair begin with cutting four layers foam core and two layers mat board for the seat base. Glue them together with tacky glue. I place a weight, like a book on top of the stack until the glue dries. I usually wait at least a couple of hours. Trace and cut out the back and the front from mat board. The back is not as wide as the front. Center the back over the front. Turn the set over and trace the front onto the back. We use these lines when building the chair. If you don't have a saw that can cut angles you can skip doing this. To keep the chair from looking too boxy I tip out the upper back. Use a ruler and the back edge of your craft knife to score a line all across the back on the line you just drew. Don't cut through. Carefully tip the upper back to bend it slightly. Center the back onto the back of the seat base and glue them together. There should be about a 1/16" left on each side. Center the front onto the front of the seat base and glue them together. There should be about a 1/16" left on each side. This is what you should have. I use 1/2" diameter dowels for the arms. These are cut with a 7 degree angle on one end (the back). I set my saw to 2 1/4" and cut the dowels. I then set the angle of the blade to 7 degrees and re-cut the dowels. If you have an adjustable miter saw you can do this. I measured my dowel and along the short side is 2 3/8". The long side is 2 1/4". If you can't cut the angles cut the dowels to 2 1/4" long. Yes, I do use the little plastic clamps. I have the other kind you get at the big box stores. Most of the time they aren't long enough for what I want. Glue the dowels between the front and the back. Hold onto the chair until the glue tacks or use clamps. Leave this to dry, really dry. Side view. Cut a strip of foam core 1/4" wide. This will be for the braces. Cut two strips to fit between the front and back. Glue them in. Cut two more strips to fit further up the arm. Glue them in. These will support the card stock arm covers. Cut two end/sides from mat board. Bend it slightly at the top. Apply glue to the chair. Glue the end/side into the side of the chair. This fits between the front and the back. I wanted to show you the difference of the sides. Paper has a grain, like wood. I cut these two pieces laying opposite ways. You can see that the bottom piece was easier to bend and also looks nicer. Experiment to find the grain of your mat board. This also holds true for card stock. Are you dry fitting? Be sure to dry fit and trim if needed. Use the arm cover pattern to trace onto card stock two arm covers. To make gluing easier I run the top of the cover over the edge of my table and then I roll it using a pencil. Apply glue to the foam core braces and the dowel. Apply the glue all around the dowel. This piece fits between the front and the back mat board pieces. The cut out area fits at the back. Glue the arm roll cover to the arms. Glue the card stock over and onto the dowels. Your chair is built. Place the chair onto card stock and trace around the bottom edge. This is your bottom cover. I use glue stick to glue the paper/fabric to the card stock. If you want use fabric for covering the chair that's just fine. Cut the bottom cover out and apply glue stick to it and glue it to the wrong side of the paper. Trim the paper leaving around a 1/4" extra. Use tacky glue to glue all the card stock covers to the chair. Glue the bottom cover to the bottom of the chair. Apply tacky glue to the bottom edge and glue the extra paper to the chair. Trim off the triangles at the corners. Use the arm roll cover pattern to cut your batting. I use Thermolam Plus, no iron, from Pellon. Walmart used to carry this, no more, at least for now. A thin batting will work, buy this from a bolt. Don't buy a quilt batting in a plastic bag, that will be too fluffy. Apply tacky glue to the arm cover. Gently press your batting onto the arm. Leave about an 1/8" gap under the arm. This will insure a crisp line of paper. Cut out enough paper to fit over the arm. Use the arm roll cover pattern as a guide. Begin gluing under the arm. You can do both sides like this now. Leave this to dry for a while. You will pull on this a bit, not as much as you would if using fabric but you will pull and this needs to be dry. After the glue is dry you may begin to cover the arm. Pull the paper over the arm. Cut a slash at the beginning of the back. Carefully pull the paper over the arm and mark the corner with a pencil. The firmer the pull the less wrinkles we will deal with at the front and back of the arms. Cut out a square from the corner you marked. Cut notches in the paper so it can fit over the curve. Glue the paper to the seat base and to the back of the chair Cut a slash into the corner. Trim off the extra paper at the end of the arm to about a 1/8". Cut notches around the curve of the arm. Glue the paper down to the front of the arm. This is the front. This is the back. Cut a piece of foam core a 1/4" wide to fit into the back of your chair. Glue this piece into the back of the chair. This piece tips out the bottom of the back cushion. To make the side covers use card stock. Place the card stock on the chair, lining up the top with the bottom of the dowel and the side with the front of the chair. Trace around the bottom and the back. Cut this out. Dry fitting and trimming if needed. Apply glue stick to the side cover and press onto the wrong side of the paper. Cut out the corners as in the picture. Glue the top and the bottom to the card stock. Glue the side cover onto the chair. Cut notches out from the extra paper and glue the paper to the back of the chair. Cut notches from the paper and glue the paper to the front of the chair. Dry fitting the back cushions. I have an alternate back pattern for those that do not to want to make a two part back cushion. The top edge of the back cushions need to be softened. I do this with my thumbnail. This is how they should look. The backs will have three layers of batting. The first layer is about a 1/4" smaller all around. Apply tacky glue to the foam core and glue the first layer on. The second layer is the same size as the cushion. The third layer is cut to size every where but the top. The top is pulled over the top of the back. The third layer on the front of the cushion. Apply a little tacky glue to the edge of the batting on the sides and bottom. Don't apply glue at the top. Place the cushion into the chair and trim off the extra. I've got both cushions with batting. They have both been trimmed. Cut paper large enough to cover the cushion. Begin with gluing up the bottom. Trim as shown in the picture. Cut notches in the curved area and glue the paper to the foam core. Set the cushion into the chair and cut a slash at the top to match the where the back is dipped. Apply glue to the top of back and to the bit of foam core on the seat base. Glue your back cushion into the chair. This is what the back should look like. Trim the paper and cut notches out. Glue the paper to the back of the chair. Getting ready to glue the other back cushion in. The other back cushion is in the chair. The paper is trimmed and the notches are cut. The paper is glued down. Looking good. I wanted to show you a close up of the texture of the paper. Trace the back pattern onto card stock to make a back cover. Apply glue stick to the back cover and glue it to the wrong side of the paper. Cut notches along the curved areas. Apply tacky glue to the card stock and glue the paper down. Apply tacky glue to the back of the chair and glue the back cover to the chair. Trace the front cover pattern onto card stock and cut out. Apply glue stick to it and glue it to the wrong side of the paper. Trim around the front cover cutting notches around the curved areas. Apply tacky glue to the card stock and glue the paper down. Leave the top un-glued. Apply tacky glue to the front of the chair and glue the front cover on. Glue down the paper that is at the top of the front cover to the top of the seat base. Dry fitting my seat cushion. The first layer of batting for the seat cushion is about a 1/4" smaller all around. The second layer fits all around. Apply tacky glue and glue the first and second layers onto the seat cushion. The third layer is glued to the bottom of the cushion. This will go up the front and over the top. The top is not glued down. Cut out enough paper to cover the cushion. Glue the front and back to the bottom of the cushion. Make sure the batting is trimmed to the foam core. If any batting is left hanging over it will make it difficult to glue the paper down or fabric for that matter. Fold the sides as in the picture and glue down. Fold the paper down and glue. Trim off the extra. Carefully remove any glue before trying your cushion. Yes, I am making piping. Apply tacky glue to the edge of the paper. Smooth the glue out to the edge of the paper. I use size 10 crochet thread. Press the thread onto the glue. Fold the paper over the thread. The thread has to be in the very fold of the paper. I fold with one hand and push the thread over to the right with the other thumb. This tightens the thread and makes it easier to get it into the fold. I don't know if that helps you or not. For fabric I use my nails to seal the thread down. For the paper I found that setting the edge of this ruler close to the thread works better. Don't slide the ruler, set it down and move on. Flip the paper over and do it on the other side. I did this a couple of times on both sides. Cut your piping away from the paper. Apply glue to the seam where the back cover meets the chair. Start at the bottom back and over the arm, over the top, over the other arm and down to the other back corner. I apply glue to the seam where the front cover meets the chair and apply the piping to the front of each arm. Apply glue to the edge of the seat cushion and apply the piping. I only apply piping to the front half of the bottom of the cushion. This is an option. I added a piece of piping along the seam where the two back cushions meet. The piping is on. Fourteen to sixteen inches is what I used for the length of the ruffle. I had to glue two pieces of paper together. Make the overlap about a 1/8". Larger and it will interfere with your gathers. I first turned a hem and glued it down. Measure from the bottom of the hem 1". Draw your line on the right side of the paper. Fold on that line. Trim off the paper to 1/2". Apply glue to the edge. Smear the glue towards the cut edge. We don't want too much glue in this tube. This is 26 gauge covered wire, I eventually switched to 20 gauge covered wire because the 26 gauge would not push through my tube. Go ahead and fold the paper over and glue it down. So we've made a hem and a rod pocket for the wire to be threaded into. You can see my 20 gauge wire now. Carefully thread the wire through the tube, gathering a little bit as you go. The paper will not push together a long bunch of gathers. When you have the length and the amount of gathers you like cut the wire and bend it back as in the picture. I have both ends bent, the paper is covering the wire a bit on the left. I made a deep ruffle for this chair, I thought it fit with the spirit of the chair. Apply tacky glue along the front edge. Press the ruffle into the glue, holding it a bit to tack. I had to have my end seam on the side because I made my overlap too large and it interfered with my ruffling! When I came to the end I straightened out my ending wire and glued the paper to it. I then cut the wire so that it butted up to my beginning ruffle. So, how did you like that? You know I am going to use this in my attic. I liked the experiment and could see me using the paper again if I found something that was "just the thing". Have fun, Expand on it, Make it better . . . Just Keep Making Minis!! Talk to you later, Kris

El maniqui se traza a partir del cuerpo base a medida hasta la cadera . Se trasladaran los patrones a un carton resitente, puede ser de emba...

Download PDF sewing pattern for 11" (28 cm) curvy plus size woman cloth doll. Make your own 1:6 scale mini mannequin with flexible wire armature, needle sculpted details, and voluptuous proportions. Intermediate to advanced doll making skill is recommended, but detailed drawings and step-by-step instructions for making armature, sewing, stuffing, and shaping the figure will guide the less experienced doll maker. Basic sewing skills by hand and machine are required. English language. ***The PDF digital file will be available for you to download after payment. To download, please sign in to Etsy on your mobile browser or computer; the App will not work. Pattern is full size for you to print on 8.5"x11" (letter size) paper. ***This pattern may not be reproduced for sale, sharing or use by others. You may sell what you make. Please give design credit to Prairie Crocus Studio. **Recommended fabrics: Doll Jersey cotton knit (De Witte Engel) or Dolskin polyester knit (Dollmakers Journey). Use a fine knit fabric with moderate stretch, about 40% across and 20% lengthwise. Using other fabrics will make the doll thicker or thinner than the original design. Fabric 16" x 32" (40 x 80cm) will make 2 dolls. See my fabrics here: www.etsy.com/ca/shop/PrairieCrocusStudio?section_id=15259540 See 1:6 scale dolls here: www.etsy.com/ca/shop/PrairieCrocusStudio?ref=seller-platform-mcnav§ion_id=16456051 See 1:6 scale patterns and kits here: www.etsy.com/ca/shop/PrairieCrocusStudio?ref=seller-platform-mcnav§ion_id=21089020 Visit my shop for more dolls, patterns, and supplies. www.etsy.com/ca/shop/PrairieCrocusStudio Item ID: PCS-MM-PD6WPC

Miniature sewing machine in a case in a vintage style on a scale of 1:12. Completely handmade. The base of the machine and the case are made of beech wood. The handle rotates. Hand-painted with acrylic paints.The machine will be an excellent decoration of the sewing workshop in the doll house. Size L-4,3cm, H-3,8cm, W-2,4cm.   L-1 3/4in, H- 1 1/2in, W-15/16in. Materials -Wood, paint, metal, plastic, threads.

1:12 Sewing Machine - 3D PRINT STL file Recommended Printer: Resin - Modeled in Autodesk Maya, Zbrush - Real-world scale : 1.6 inches H, 2.0 inches L, 1.1 D (can be easily scaled up or down) - Centered at 0,0,0. - Optimized topology - Inspected with Autodesk MeshMixer and PrusaSlicer software - 0 errors. - Product formats: OBJ, STL Please be aware that some of our more complex models may require intermediate to advanced understanding of splicing software and how to place supports whether you're Resin or FDM printing. OBJs are provided for every file allowing you to rearrange position or take away pieces as desired. For splicing software we highly recommend PrusaSlicer which is available for free. Free OBJ editors include: Autodesk 123D, 3D Builder or Blender Your satisfaction and enjoyment is very important to us. If you have any issues, questions, feedback or even requests... please get in touch, we'd love to hear from you! This not physical object. This is an STL file for use with 3D printers; not a physical item. Usage requires access to a 3D printer and slicing software. Once payment is confirmed you will receive a link for your download. Please follow the instructions in the link. COMMERCIAL USE LICENSE : You may print and sell up to 500 physical copies of this item as an INDIVIDUAL MERCHANT ONLY. You may not give away, sell, donate or in any way distribute the STL file. All works Copyright Dove and Pear 2022 Thank you for your support and consideration of independent freelance artists.

Download PDF sewing pattern for a 3” (75 mm) man, 2.75" (7 cm) woman, 2” (5 cm) child, 1.25" (3 cm) baby. Make your own 1:24 scale tiny mannequins with flexible wire armatures, needle sculpted details, and natural proportions. Basic sewing skills by hand and machine are required. Detailed drawings and instructions are given for making armatures, sewing, stuffing, and shaping the dolls. English language. The last picture compares sizes. ***The PDF digital file will be available for you to download after payment. To download, please sign in to Etsy on your mobile browser or computer; the App will not work. Pattern is full size for you to print on 8.5"x11" (letter size) paper. ***This pattern may not be reproduced for sale, sharing or use by others. You may sell what you make. Please give design credit to Prairie Crocus Studio. **Recommended fabrics: cotton Doll Jersey (De Witte Engel) or polyester Dolskin and Windsor knit (Dollmakers Journey). Use a fine knit fabric with moderate stretch, about 40% across and 20% lengthwise. Using other fabrics will make the doll thicker or thinner than the original design. A piece of fabric 9” high x 8” wide (23cm x 20cm) will make one doll family. See my fabrics here: www.etsy.com/ca/shop/PrairieCrocusStudio?section_id=15259540 See more 1:24 scale dolls here: www.etsy.com/ca/shop/PrairieCrocusStudio?section_id=14161173 See kits and patterns here: www.etsy.com/ca/shop/PrairieCrocusStudio?section_id=14669804 Visit my shop for more dolls, patterns, and supplies: www.etsy.com/ca/shop/PrairieCrocusStudio Item ID: PCS-MM-PD24F

This is my Mary Engelbreit room box. We are going to make the sewing box next to the rocking chair. My husband sawed the strips for t...

Dalia Skirt This is a pdf sewing pattern with Instant Download! Once you have paid, in a moment you will receive: - The PDF pattern files include a layer option so you can choose to print your size or multiple sizes. Choose your size based on the size chart. This Pattern include 7 size 36-48 - Detailed instructions construction steps accompanied by photographs that you will be able to understand how to construct the corset. Printing, Taping, Cuting , Sewing. -The link to a video tutorial. How to construct the skirt step by step. Print out at 100% scale on your home printer. Use the scale provided within the pattern to double check printing has been done correctly. 1 and 2 cm Seam allowances included.

This is a 1/12th scale sewing machine with scissors,buttons, thread and box. Approximate Dimension (inch): Sewing Machine - 1.02(D) x 1.18(H) x 1.77(W) Box - 1.18(D) x 1.38(H) x 1.97(W) Approximate Dimension (cm): Sewing Machine - 2.6(D) x 3(H) x 4.5(W) Box - 3(D) x 3.5(H) x 5(W) Note: Please keep all miniature models away from children. Our products are intended to be remodeled, for decorative use only and it can not be used as a cookware. Thank you for visiting M for Miniatures!

Limited Offer ONLY~ ** Instant Download by Etsy internal mail upon payment confirmed. Check your order status for the download** Item Description: E PATTERN for 1/4 MSD BJD Doll Casual Basic set including: (1) Sleeveless Dress, (2) Pants, (3) Shirt, (4) Skirt, (5) Jacket, (6) Bloomers, (7) Vest Tulle, (8) Socks, and (9) Tote Bag **NO SEWING INSTRUCTIONS** Format: PDF Total 15 pages NO SEWING INSTRUCTIONS (Color Picture of Completed Project NOT included) Language: NO SEWING INSTRUCTIONS Pattern Template Pieces titles: Japanese & translated in ENGLISH by DollyPaws Contents: NO SEWING INSTRUCTIONS 100% full size PATTERN (in JAPANESE & Titles translated in English) with RULER SCALE (in cm), & PATTERN SYMBOLS KEY for 100% full size PATTERN (in JAPANESE & Titles translated in English) for 9 Projects including: (1) Sleeveless Dress, (2) Pants, (3) Shirt, (4) Skirt, (5) Jacket, (6) Bloomers, (7) Vest Tulle, (8) Socks, and (9) Tote Bag set for 1/4 MSD size BJD Doll. (Model: Unoa Quluts Girl) ** Photo of finished project NOT included** ~ NO SEWING INSTRUCTIONS ~ Payment method: I accept payment by PayPal only. Please pay within 3 days of auction's close, else transaction will be cancelled. ** Instant Download by Etsy internal mail upon payment confirmed. Check your order status for the download** Return Policy: No returns accepted. P.S. Please kindly note that by placing a bid means you agree to the above stated auction terms and charges. Thank you. *Check out my shop for more awesome e patterns. Thanks!*

Found this on Pintrest, but nothing beyond the idea that it is for Barbie. Does anyone recognize this? It says it's from Fashion Doll Quarterly (and that it's an exclusive pattern) but I think it's an older issue because of the website.