Aikamatkoja menneisyyden vaatearkuille -- Time travels to bygone wardrobes
Moving on with the stays (part 1). After drawing all the boning channels to the panels, pin the middle layer pieces on your exterior fabric. I really recommend linen or cotton for exterior fabric for beginners because they're both easy to work with (and comfortable materials, too). In case you're not sure what would be an appropriate color or material for your stays, take a look at these boards I've created of extant stays on Pinterest: Whites (including ivory, natural white, cream, grey, silver) Yellows Reds, pinks Greens Blues Tans, beiges, pale browns and naturals Browns and other dark colors As you can see, I chose pale blue for these stays. I had hoped to use yellow with blue stitching but I wasn't able to find any suitable yellow fabric locally so I simply used what I already had in stash. Since you already marked most the seam allowances to the middle layer, you just have to add around 3 or 4 cm (depending on the width of the boning channels) to the center front and center back panels. This is the part that will cover the raw edges of the middle layer. It will also make sure your lining won't show from underneath. You could also finish the raw edges with binding but it seems to have been a much less common way to do it. And now you're already ready to cut... After cutting... ...it's time to get out your sewing machine and start stitching! Unless you're doing it by hand, of course. Tip: Start stitching the channels at the ends of the lines where the channels cross so it's easier to hit the right spot with the needle at the beginning. When you're sewing with the machine, it's hard not to stitch over the crossing lines if you start at the edges of the panels. Also, you don't have to tie knots to all the thread ends if you continue stitching the channels to the seam allowances. At the edges of the panels, secure the thread ends by sewing a couple of stitches back and forth so that they can be hidden by the binding. I'm experimenting with a new technique here. Normally I would add small pieces of fabric for the horizontal channels but this time I'm simply going to put both the horizontal and vertical bones between the exterior layer and middle layer. Sew all the boning channels, except the two channels next to center front and center back. Cut off the thread ends at the edges of the panels. Secure the rest of the thread ends by tying knots to them. I also like to hide the thread ends between the layers, although it's not necessary because the lining will cover them anyway. Then fold the 3cm wide parts that you added to the exterior panels earlier at center front and back to the underside of the layers and iron. Cut off the excess. And now you can stitch the rest of the boning channels through the three layers of fabric. To make it easier, you can also draw the channels on the underside. And you're done with all of the channels. Shorten the stitch length and stitch around the tabs about 2 mm away from the edges (meaning the lines that were drawn earlier). However, make sure you leave the ends of boning channels open so you'll be able to put the bones in later! Do the same for the lower edges of the front and back panels. Remember to stitch around the shoulder straps as well. After you're done with all the panels, you can stitch them together. Press the seam allowances open. And now put the bones in. If you like, you don't have to cut the bones for the first fitting. But if you do, remember to make the ends of bones round so they won't tear the fabric. You can use cable ties or if you want to use a more period accurate material, reed is fine. Metal bones work, too, but I wouldn't use many of them because otherwise the stays might end up very heavy. The best places for metal bones are next to the lacing holes at the center back (and front). You could also use metal bones to reinforce the stays on the inside, as suggested in the Encyclopedié. After all the bones have been put into the channels, you can close the ends of the channels. Secure them by backstitching. Then cut out the parts between the tabs. Add the shoulder straps and you're ready to start making the lacing holes! They could also have been done before sewing the panels together but it doesn't really matter in which order you do it. I will post the next part of the tutorial sometime after Christmas or New Year by latest. Happy holidays everyone! :)
This fanblog is dedicated to the beautiful couple Jamie & Claire from the Outlander series by Diana Gabaldon. Watching season 7a of the Starz tv series since June the 16th, 2023. This blog is here since 2013.
Maria Doyle Kennedy is an Irish folk singer first, and that’s how she got into acting with a role in the fantastic indie flick The Commitments (1991). She proceeded to get small roles in movi…
Terry Dresbach talks Season 1 Easter eggs, sending Brianna through the stones, and why this is her last season with the show.
Portrait of Juliane Fürstin zu Schaumburg-Lippe (1761-1799) c.1781 (Johann Heinrich Tischbein the Elder
Please note that most of the dresses presented here in our Etsy store are just examples of our old work for clients. These are not ready made dresses for sale. We realize only customized dresses and we DON'T HAVE SHORT DEADLINES. Therefore, before you make a purchase, please ask us for details in a private message. If you make a purchase without reading this description - we do not accept cancellation of the transaction. We do not accept returns and resignations from an already ordered dress during sewing or after sending it (does not apply to tailoring corrections), because our dresses are made to measure and based on a design that is created individually for each customer. By clicking "buy it now" - you accept our terms. We accept payment plans discussed individually with each client. We are small fashion house Atelier Saint-Honore and we make all designs individually for each clients. All dresses are sewn for measures. We use traditional haute couture techniques like fine hand made finishes, hand made embroidery and artistique techniques of decorations. We offer the highest quality custom service and the best materials. Please ask in private for more details.
Aikamatkoja menneisyyden vaatearkuille -- Time travels to bygone wardrobes
Can you already tell I'm crazy about cotton prints? Honestly, after finishing my latest cotton print robe à l'Anglaise I hadn't been plan...
“Bouquet Francaise” is the name the @littlebitGerman gave to the Red Francaise after she saw it in person and I think it describes it beautifully. Throughout the bulk of it’s exis…
Learn about English clothing and fashion during the 1700s. Discover what people wore in England and colonial America in the 18th century.
Wedding dress (1759). Photo : Erwin Olaf. Model: Ymre Stiekema AMSTERDAM - From February 20 through May 15 2016, six galleries of the Philips Wing will be dedicated to fashion of the Dutch from 1625 to 1960. Starting with garments worn by members of the...
This beautiful 18th century rococo gown, also called Robe a la Francais, sack dress, mantua dress, was tailored for You and will look stunning for Your dancing masquerade ball or other special occasion. Many artists have tried to display such beauty in their works. This costume tailored in inspiration of painter Jean Antoine Watteau. This costume includes dress gown tailored of decorative fabric, with decorated taffetta petticoat. Brooch and fan are not included. The new dress we tailor to Your panier petticoat. And if You do not have such, You can order it additionally. Additionally can be tailored, please check: Chemise: https://www.etsy.com/listing/886314026/woman-chemise-mid-18th-early-19th Pannier cage petticoat: https://www.etsy.com/listing/619999554/rococo-18th-century-pannier-hoop-skirt Several corset variants: https://www.etsy.com/listing/1672215738/late-18th-century-woman-stays-corset https://www.etsy.com/listing/801534375/rococo-stays-with-tabs-tassets-corset-of https://www.etsy.com/listing/1186171862/rococo-stays-corset-of-18th-century https://www.etsy.com/listing/1499152152/rococo-stays-with-tabs-tassets-corset-of The new dress we tailor with Your measurements for perfect fitting. Dress in stock is best for measurements: Bust 84-90cm Waist 64-70cm Height 165-175cm If you have questions, please write us!
Moving on with the stays (part 1). After drawing all the boning channels to the panels, pin the middle layer pieces on your exterior fabric. I really recommend linen or cotton for exterior fabric for beginners because they're both easy to work with (and comfortable materials, too). In case you're not sure what would be an appropriate color or material for your stays, take a look at these boards I've created of extant stays on Pinterest: Whites (including ivory, natural white, cream, grey, silver) Yellows Reds, pinks Greens Blues Tans, beiges, pale browns and naturals Browns and other dark colors As you can see, I chose pale blue for these stays. I had hoped to use yellow with blue stitching but I wasn't able to find any suitable yellow fabric locally so I simply used what I already had in stash. Since you already marked most the seam allowances to the middle layer, you just have to add around 3 or 4 cm (depending on the width of the boning channels) to the center front and center back panels. This is the part that will cover the raw edges of the middle layer. It will also make sure your lining won't show from underneath. You could also finish the raw edges with binding but it seems to have been a much less common way to do it. And now you're already ready to cut... After cutting... ...it's time to get out your sewing machine and start stitching! Unless you're doing it by hand, of course. Tip: Start stitching the channels at the ends of the lines where the channels cross so it's easier to hit the right spot with the needle at the beginning. When you're sewing with the machine, it's hard not to stitch over the crossing lines if you start at the edges of the panels. Also, you don't have to tie knots to all the thread ends if you continue stitching the channels to the seam allowances. At the edges of the panels, secure the thread ends by sewing a couple of stitches back and forth so that they can be hidden by the binding. I'm experimenting with a new technique here. Normally I would add small pieces of fabric for the horizontal channels but this time I'm simply going to put both the horizontal and vertical bones between the exterior layer and middle layer. Sew all the boning channels, except the two channels next to center front and center back. Cut off the thread ends at the edges of the panels. Secure the rest of the thread ends by tying knots to them. I also like to hide the thread ends between the layers, although it's not necessary because the lining will cover them anyway. Then fold the 3cm wide parts that you added to the exterior panels earlier at center front and back to the underside of the layers and iron. Cut off the excess. And now you can stitch the rest of the boning channels through the three layers of fabric. To make it easier, you can also draw the channels on the underside. And you're done with all of the channels. Shorten the stitch length and stitch around the tabs about 2 mm away from the edges (meaning the lines that were drawn earlier). However, make sure you leave the ends of boning channels open so you'll be able to put the bones in later! Do the same for the lower edges of the front and back panels. Remember to stitch around the shoulder straps as well. After you're done with all the panels, you can stitch them together. Press the seam allowances open. And now put the bones in. If you like, you don't have to cut the bones for the first fitting. But if you do, remember to make the ends of bones round so they won't tear the fabric. You can use cable ties or if you want to use a more period accurate material, reed is fine. Metal bones work, too, but I wouldn't use many of them because otherwise the stays might end up very heavy. The best places for metal bones are next to the lacing holes at the center back (and front). You could also use metal bones to reinforce the stays on the inside, as suggested in the Encyclopedié. After all the bones have been put into the channels, you can close the ends of the channels. Secure them by backstitching. Then cut out the parts between the tabs. Add the shoulder straps and you're ready to start making the lacing holes! They could also have been done before sewing the panels together but it doesn't really matter in which order you do it. I will post the next part of the tutorial sometime after Christmas or New Year by latest. Happy holidays everyone! :)
Robe à la francaise Time: approx. 1770 Reconstruction of a rococo dress - a robe à la francaise - made of ice blue silk in the typical vertical wave pattern with embroidered floral bouquets. The hand-embroidered plug was made using the pattern and embroidery technique of the 18th century. The dress includes a chemise made of fine linen with antique lace on the sleeves, a functional base with pockets, a large panier and a corset with handmade nest holes. All parts were made according to original cuts and templates. We offer the dress complete with a base, as the panier in particular must be coordinated with the skirt and the dress cannot be worn without a corset. The side seams of the jupe (skirt) and manteau are open at the top so that the pockets are easily accessible. Pictures 4 - 9 show the order of dressing: Chemise - Pockets - Corset - Panier - Skirt - Plug - Manteau The plug is authentically attached to the corset with pins (Fig. 7), and the manteau is also attached under the garnish on the plug (Fig. 9) (don't worry, the needles can't prick). This allows for much wider variability for different sizes. Material: Skirt, manteau, plug 100% silk, lining top manteau 100% linen Chemise 100% fine linen, lace 100% cotton Corset and panier 100% cotton Size variable thanks to the plug-in system and lacing inside the jacket about size 40 - 44/46 The doll has the following dimensions: chest circumference 114 cm, waist 98 cm Length of the dress measured from the shoulder-neck point: 155 cm The dress shown in the photos is being sold. Our company has specialized in the design and manufacture of high-quality historical fashion for more than 20 years. We work for museums, artists and private individuals. There is a reference page with our work on our website gandiva.eu.
