This weekend I was lucky to portray an 18th century milliner at the America's Hometown Thanksgiving Celebration in Plymouth, Mass. (Some pictures are on Instagram, but I'll post others here later this week.) To prepare for the event, I researched the terms millinery / milliner. I usually think as a milliner as relating to the art of hat making, and I believe it's separate from a mantua maker who would make gowns, but sometimes it seems that the definition of milliner in the modern vernacular reenacting genre suggests making gowns. Is this definition 18th century valid? What exactly did an 18th century milliner make and sell? To learn more about 18th century "millinery", I've investigated some primary sources to answer these questions... A Morning Rable or The Milliner's Shop, 1782 British Museum 1935,0522.1.31 The first print shows the woman in the center sewing a cap. (Thanks to the mirror behind her, I'm pretty sure her hair is braided!) I can't quite tell what the woman on the left is crafting, but maybe it's trim for the petticoat that's hanging behind her? (I love how the ladies are all wearing long sleeves!) A. Welles Milliner Lewis Walpole Library, Accession Number 66 726 T675 This pretty ad doesn't offer much detail to help answer my questions. Elizabeth Dawes Milliner, c.1757 Lewis Walpole Library Accession Number 66 726 T675 Quarto Ms. Dawes sells quite an assortment of goods at her shop such as tippets, children's stays and cloaks. Though she doesn't list ladies' gowns, she offers almost every accessory. (I would totally love to shop there!) In exploring the question about milliners specifically making hats, this ad suggests milliners could also be talented seamstresses who crafted, or at least carried, many necessary accessories. Mary Elliot Milliner, c.1757-1758 Lewis Walpole Library, Accession Number 66 726 T675 Much like Ms. Dawes' shop, Ms. Elliot's shop offers an assortment of accessories. Though it doesn't appear to have as much variety, I find it interesting that she promotes wholesale prices suggesting that she might contract out goods to other suppliers. Thomas Graham, Milliner and Pattern Drawer, c.1757-1758 Lewish Wale Pole Library, Accession Number 66 726 T675 Unfortunately we can't learn what more Mr. Graham is selling, but we do learn that, "...all manner of needle-work done after the Newest Fashion." Perhaps this includes gowns? The charming milliner of ____ Street, December 1771 Lewis Walpole Library, Accession Number 771.12.01.05.2+ To have worked in the fashion business, the milliner must have been stylish. A Milliner's Shop or Mrs Monopolize, the butchers wife purchasing a Modern HeadDress, 1772 V&A Accession Number E.620-1997 I found two opposing definitions of the term "Millinery" in different editions of Dr. Johnson's Dictionary. The version I have on my Nook states: MILLINER (M'ILLINER) I believe from Milaner, an inhabitant of Milan, as a Lombad is a banker. One who sells ribands and dresses for women. However Dr. Johnson's Dictionary on Google Books says: Milliner: one who sells ribands, bonnets, caps, &tc. for women. Dowt, that darn et cetera! I had a Renaissance lit professor in college who said, "The et cetera invites the reader to participate." In this case, because the few other primary sources I found didn't allude to gowns, I think the e-book editor probably took a bit too much liberty in hir editing. I'm concluding, for now, that milliners didn't make gowns and that they focused on hats, caps and an assortment of accessories. But I invite you to share you interpretations, &tc.
Following traditional 18th-century techniques, Antoinette Poisson’s domino paper is printed and painted by hand, on laid cloth paper handmaid by a French Master of the Arts. ‘Indienne 30B’ is an original creation of A Paris Chez Antoinette Poisson, the design having one base of blue print. Please allow a minimum of 8 weeks to ship. Dimensions 18"L x 15.75"W Weight 0.25 lb
This weekend I was lucky to portray an 18th century milliner at the America's Hometown Thanksgiving Celebration in Plymouth, Mass. (Some pictures are on Instagram, but I'll post others here later this week.) To prepare for the event, I researched the terms millinery / milliner. I usually think as a milliner as relating to the art of hat making, and I believe it's separate from a mantua maker who would make gowns, but sometimes it seems that the definition of milliner in the modern vernacular reenacting genre suggests making gowns. Is this definition 18th century valid? What exactly did an 18th century milliner make and sell? To learn more about 18th century "millinery", I've investigated some primary sources to answer these questions... A Morning Rable or The Milliner's Shop, 1782 British Museum 1935,0522.1.31 The first print shows the woman in the center sewing a cap. (Thanks to the mirror behind her, I'm pretty sure her hair is braided!) I can't quite tell what the woman on the left is crafting, but maybe it's trim for the petticoat that's hanging behind her? (I love how the ladies are all wearing long sleeves!) A. Welles Milliner Lewis Walpole Library, Accession Number 66 726 T675 This pretty ad doesn't offer much detail to help answer my questions. Elizabeth Dawes Milliner, c.1757 Lewis Walpole Library Accession Number 66 726 T675 Quarto Ms. Dawes sells quite an assortment of goods at her shop such as tippets, children's stays and cloaks. Though she doesn't list ladies' gowns, she offers almost every accessory. (I would totally love to shop there!) In exploring the question about milliners specifically making hats, this ad suggests milliners could also be talented seamstresses who crafted, or at least carried, many necessary accessories. Mary Elliot Milliner, c.1757-1758 Lewis Walpole Library, Accession Number 66 726 T675 Much like Ms. Dawes' shop, Ms. Elliot's shop offers an assortment of accessories. Though it doesn't appear to have as much variety, I find it interesting that she promotes wholesale prices suggesting that she might contract out goods to other suppliers. Thomas Graham, Milliner and Pattern Drawer, c.1757-1758 Lewish Wale Pole Library, Accession Number 66 726 T675 Unfortunately we can't learn what more Mr. Graham is selling, but we do learn that, "...all manner of needle-work done after the Newest Fashion." Perhaps this includes gowns? The charming milliner of ____ Street, December 1771 Lewis Walpole Library, Accession Number 771.12.01.05.2+ To have worked in the fashion business, the milliner must have been stylish. A Milliner's Shop or Mrs Monopolize, the butchers wife purchasing a Modern HeadDress, 1772 V&A Accession Number E.620-1997 I found two opposing definitions of the term "Millinery" in different editions of Dr. Johnson's Dictionary. The version I have on my Nook states: MILLINER (M'ILLINER) I believe from Milaner, an inhabitant of Milan, as a Lombad is a banker. One who sells ribands and dresses for women. However Dr. Johnson's Dictionary on Google Books says: Milliner: one who sells ribands, bonnets, caps, &tc. for women. Dowt, that darn et cetera! I had a Renaissance lit professor in college who said, "The et cetera invites the reader to participate." In this case, because the few other primary sources I found didn't allude to gowns, I think the e-book editor probably took a bit too much liberty in hir editing. I'm concluding, for now, that milliners didn't make gowns and that they focused on hats, caps and an assortment of accessories. But I invite you to share you interpretations, &tc.
A Paris chez Antoinette Poisson's creation.+ Number of colors: 1 black printed color and 3 hand painted colors+ Material: printed on laid paper on a pure handmade rag+ Format: sheet: 44 x 36.5 cm // pattern: 42 x 33 cmAll our productions are entirely handmade: irregularities may appear, proof of their authenticity. Please allow a minimum of 8 weeks to ship.
We have looked at trade cards on a couple of previous occasions and it appears that many of our readers like them as much as we do. So, today we’re going to look at a specific trade – that of a dru…
Like everything in fashion, stomachers came in and out of vogue, but during the 18th century they were very much statement pieces especially those made for the wealthier members of society and the …
Papier dominoté utilisé pour le contre-plat et la garde volante. Impression de Paris, 1748. Il y a déjà plus d'un an que le livre de André Jammes sur les papiers dominotés est sorti aux Editions des Cendres. Ainsi présenté : "Volumineux ouvrage consacré aux papiers qui, au XVIIIe siècle, recouvraient les livres avant leur passage chez le relieur. Ces éphémères, devenus d’une insigne rareté, témoignent d’un goût inné pour les arts décoratifs. André Jammes présente sur un merveilleux sujet, qui n’a jusqu’à ce jour été l’objet d’aucune monographie, un premier inventaire où sont reproduits au format quelque trois cents papiers aux motifs et couleurs foisonnants, d’une singulière beauté." Ce livre a obtenu Le "Prix SNA (Syndicat National des Antiquaires)" (2011). 564 p. (25 x 25) ; ISBN: 2-86742-176-1 ; 2010 ; 180 €. Il a été fait un tirage de luxe à 15 exemplaires augmentés d’un papier dominoté original (N. I/XV) : 450 €. Ouvrage relié. Impression couleur sur papier lessebo 150 gr. 350 illustrations au format réalisées à partir des documents originaux. Tirage limité à 999 ex. Voici l'extrait de la préface d'André Jammes : "Les images populaires produites au XVIIIe siècle à Chartres, à Orléans, au Mans et dans d’autres centres provinciaux forment un ensemble particulièrement brillant dans le panorama des arts et traditions populaires. Tout le monde connaît La Folie des hommes ou le monde à l’envers, Le Vrai Portrait du Juif errant, l’Histoire de l’enfant prodigue, gravés à grands traits et vivement coloriés au pochoir. Ces images ont été sauvées par des amateurs éclairés ; elles ont fait l’objet d’enquêtes érudites, de publications richement illustrées et d’expositions où les conservateurs de musées et de bibliothèques ont montré tout leur savoir. Les hommes qui produisaient ces images appartenaient à une corporation qui gravait et éditait en même temps des papiers de tenture (tirés feuille à feuille et raboutés en rouleaux) et des papiers dominotés. L’origine du mot est obscure et les domaines de la gravure qu’il recouvre sont mal définis, car les dominotiers gravaient sur leurs planches de bois aussi bien des images pieuses, historiques et allégoriques, que des papiers décoratifs à motifs répétitifs. Ils se mettaient parfois au service des fabricants d’indiennes. Le présent livre conduit à reconnaître que papiers de tenture et dominos se confondent, sinon dans leur conception, au moins dans leur utilisation, mais c’est en général aux feuilles de dessins géométriques ou d’ornements répétés que l’on accorde le nom de “domino”. Les spécialistes de l’imagerie populaire n’ont pas manqué d’évoquer ces dominos, mais il manquait une étude spécifique sur ces feuilles et sur l’emploi qui en a été fait pour orner et préserver les livres à leur parution ; c’est l’objet du présent volume." Un très beau livre assurément. Très complet. Mais qui hélas n'est pas à la portée de toutes les bourses. J'avais de mon côté fait le projet d'en acquérir un exemplaire, et puis j'ai finalement renoncé. Pourquoi ? Au delà du texte passionnant d'André Jammes (j'ai parcouru le volume au salon du Grand Palais l'an passé sur le stand des Editions des Cendres), je pense que l'intérêt de l'ouvrage réside dans l'aspect catalogue de "papiers dominotés" reproduits au format et en couleurs. Or, je suis convaincu que le nombre de papiers reproduits, fut-il important, ne reflète de fait qu'une infime partie de cette vaste production de papiers décorés. Je pense que la forme "livre" n'est pas forcément la mieux adaptée pour ce genre de documentation qui demande d'être constamment remise à jour avec les nouvelles découvertes. J'ai été dès lors convaincu que la seule forme utile et évolutive serait celle de la base de données. Une base de données qu'il serait utile et instructif autant qu'agréable à l’œil, de mettre à la disposition de toutes et tous, gratuitement. Je suis en train de mettre au point ce lieu de stockage virtuel d'images bien réelles. Je vous en donnerai bientôt la primeur. En attendant, voici deux papiers dominotés décorés du XVIIIe siècle. Le premier (voir ci-dessus) est un papier qui se trouve avoir été utilisé pour décorer la doublure intérieure et les gardes d'un volume imprimé en France en 1748 (format in-8). Le deuxième (voir ci-dessous) est un papier qui sert de couverture pour une impression d'Arras de 1763, avec cette mention imprimée sur la bordure de la feuille de papier décoratif "CI FAIT ET VEND A ARRAS CHE ...] (la suite n'apparait pas - dommage sinon nous aurions eu le nom du fabricant de papier dominoté à Arras). Papier dominoté utilisé pour la couverture de brochage. Impression d'Arras, 1763. Papier fabriqué à Arras. Par ailleurs je vous invite à lire ou à relire le billet que notre ami Léo a consacré à ces papiers sur son blog ICI. PS : si vous avez sous les yeux des spécimens de papiers dominotés du XVIIIe siècle, je vous invite à m'envoyer une photographie de celui-ci en précisant sur quel ouvrage il se trouve et ce qu'il recouvre (plats ou gardes). Envoyez à [email protected] Dans un premier temps les exemples de papiers dominotés seront stockés ICI avec une légende explicative. Album Picasa qui sert dans un premier temps de base de données publiques regroupant des exemples de papiers dominotés du XVIIIe siècle. Bonne journée, Bertrand Bibliomane
"Mignonette" Following traditional 18th-century techniques, Antoinette Poisson’s domino paper is printed and painted by hand, on laid cloth paper handmaid by a French Master of the Arts.
We have looked at trade cards in a previous blog and if we’re honest this post is slightly self-indulgent as we’re fascinated by them. Today we thought that we would focus on the trade cards for th…
Friday, 1 January, 1808 A most beautiful day, bright sunshine and as mild and warm as spring. Lansdown sent up the candles. Dr Davis calld, but I did not see him. Mr Andrews sat here an hour. M…
Today, as the art of handwritten notes gradually fades, one common way to court someone is to slide into his or her DMs.
Fine-line lithograph drawings of rural scenes from the 18th Century, vignettes featuring both farm workers and their land-owners. Rendered here in an inky indigo. A wide-width paper, shortened length. Pre-pasted wallpaper, please refer to installation instructions on roll.
See the rest of the 18Th C. European Document Seals here: https://etsy.me/32Xidp2 Or buy in bulk and save on our small sizes here: https://etsy.me/3u1HH0h ★ Beautiful vintage reproduction of the 18Th C. European Document Seal #1. These seals were stamped on an array of French and Italian official documents during the 18th century from various church letters, wills, property deeds and other government correspondence. These stamps were recreated and aged to add a vestige of patina which are Giclée reproduced on our matte archival paper. ★ FRAMING: None of our prints come framed through Etsy but you can purchase this piece framed through ArtCirca.com ★ PRINTS: Giclee printed on Premium Archival Museum quality paper with Archival Inks (230 gsm heavy weight paper). ★ COLOR OF PRODUCT- Please also note that, although every effort is made to show our items accurately and describe our products in detail, we cannot guarantee every computer monitor will accurately depict the actual color of the merchandise. Please contact us with any further questions or concerns about the color or size of any print before purchasing. ★ SHIPPING: All our prints are shipped via USPS in large, durable shipping tubes or cases that come with tracking. All International buyers are responsible for any duties & taxes that may be charged per country. Prints returned to us due to wrong address info will be reshipped at customers expense. ★ 14 DAY RETURN POLICY: All of our prints are made to order and all returns are subject to a 15% restocking fee based on original sale price. Buyers are responsible for all return shipping costs in original shipping tube. Refunds will not be issued on initial shipping costs. Once the order has been received back in original condition a refund will be issued less the restocking fee in the form of original payment. PLEASE NOTE: Images shown are of the largest sized print. Smaller prints means smaller details/scale, please keep this in mind when ordering your sizes. If you have any questions or concerns please contact us to view the smaller size images. Images owned and operated by FC Design Co. LLC.
Today we hand out business/trade cards like confetti, most being mass produced for a few pounds. With that in mind, I thought it might be interesting to take a look at the same commodity in the Geo…
Original advertisement for a London wig maker D.Cook in the 18th century. The Star and Peruke was located near Lincoln's Inn Fields on Carey St which remains a favourite meeting place for barristers...
Museum quality Giclee print - Premium fine art paper, 100% cotton, acid-free, archival
We have looked at trade cards in a previous blog and if we’re honest this post is slightly self-indulgent as we’re fascinated by them. Today we thought that we would focus on the trade cards for th…
CFAs can be requested for orders of 5m/5 yards or over. No claims for faulty fabrics or wallpapers can be made after the fabrics or wallpapers have been cut or hung. All of our fabrics have passed the Cigarette FR test but will either need to be used in combination with a suitable FR interliner or backcoating to meet the relevant FR standards. Copyright in all designs owned by Soane Limited. All rights reserved no reproduction permitted.
Antique 18th century French solid brass and wood handle. Features "DF" initials with a whimsical floral detail. Beautiful romantic with its smooth handle and scripted details. -Size: 4 in x 2.75 in x .75 in-Materials: brass and wood-Provenance: 18th century-Sourced From: the US-Made in: France-Notes: n/a
Today we hand out business/trade cards like confetti, most being mass produced for a few pounds. With that in mind, I thought it might be interesting to take a look at the same commodity in the Geo…
Everyone loves stylish shoes and needless to say those lovers of fashion, the Georgians, were no exception. As they are today, they were, as well as being obviously practical they were very much ab…
Today, as the art of handwritten notes gradually fades, one common way to court someone is to slide into his or her DMs.
Decorated papers for wrapping gifts, 18th Century
