In dit Ideabook geven we je 7 tuintips voor de herfst, waardoor je in de lente weer van een prachtige tuin kunt genieten.

Helleborus ‘Anna’s Red’

(aka: Helleborus ABCRD02) Helleborus x iburgensis 'Anna's Red' is one of the most sought after hellebores in the world today. This 2013 clonal release from the UK's RD Plants, is named after UK plantswoman and author Anna Pavord. Helleborus 'Anna's Red' is a sterile hellebore, derived from crossing Helleborus lividus, Helleborus niger, and Helleborus x hybridus together...a task formerly thought impossible. Helleborus 'Anna's Red' forms a 15" tall x 2' wide clump of dark green, glossy, evergreen foliage whose new growth emerges patterned in silver. The 15" tall stalks of bright reddish-purple flowers top the clump in late winter...quite stunning!!

I have been making paper for over 15 years and I love every step, from wandering around outdoors scoping out the plants to removing the finished sheets from the drying rack. It is so satisfying to use something free and renewable to create something beautiful. Collecting plants for papermaking opens your eyes to more of our world. The desire to learn more, naturally follows as you seek to identify species suitable to the craft. Collecting iris leaves about 15 years ago. I first made paper in a weekend workshop taught by an instructor through an Emily Carr College outreach program . We used cotton linters, abaca, and Japanese Kozo fibres. Before the weekend was through I was already thinking about local plants that I might try on my own. Swamp grass: collected dry in late fall on left, dried fresh in summer on right In this step by step tutorial, I'll take you through my process of making plant fibre paper, from start to finish. See the bottom of this post for a list of supplies and materials. Step One: Removing the unwanted components that contaminate the pulp. After you have collected your plant materials and done the initial preparation such as peeling the bast fibres or scraping fresh iris leaves to break down the pulpy material, you now cut the plant material up into 1/2 to 1" lengths using sharp scissors or garden shears. For information on collecting the plants for paper, read my earlier posts on collecting willow (woody bast fibre) and on collecting other types of plant fibres (herbacious bast, leaf, and grass). Then you will cook the material in a non-corrosive pot with an alkaline (soda ash) solution. This purifies the fibres by dissolving the lignin, sugars, starches, waxes, and gums. The remaining cellulose allows absorption of water and promotes bonding. Fill your pot about half full with cool water. Weigh the plant fibres. Weigh out soda ash (20% of the dry weight of the fibres). Stir the soda ash into the water (always add an alkali to the water, not water to the alkali). Add the cut plant materials to the pot and enough water to cover the plants and allow them to be stirred freely. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer (work in well ventilated area; it's stinky). Generally two hours is adequate and sometimes less is enough. When the fibres can be easily separated along the grain they are ready to be rinsed to remove all residue. The liquid will be almost black from all the impurities that have been cooked out of the fibres. And the fibres usually darken as well. Strain the fibres in your cheesecloth bag and rinse until the water runs clear - several minutes. Keep squeezing the bag and rinsing. A garden hose works well for this step. Swamp grass and willow pulp Step Two: Separating the fibres To separate the fibre into individual filaments, I use a blender. Fill the blender 3/4 full with water and add a palm full of the cooked fibre. Blend with intermittent pulses until the fibres aren't clumped together. Care must be taken to avoid fibres tangling in the blender blades and burning out the motor. Don't over process. Pour into a bucket or bowl and continue with the rest of the fibres until finished. If you will be adding recycled paper to your handmade paper, soak it first in warm water until it falls apart easily. Mix it in the blender in the same way as the plant fibre and set it aside in a separate bowl or bucket. Step Three: Mix the formation aid (thickener) Follow the directions for the product you are using to mix it in a blender. I use about 2 tbsp of the powdered thickener in a blender full of cold water, keeping the water moving as I add the powder to prevent clumping. Pour it through a fine sieve to catch any clumps. This will keep refrigerated in a jar for a couple of weeks and you may not even need it depending on your plant fibre (read further). Swamp grass and field grass after processing. Ready for making paper. Step Four: Hogging the vat, throwing the wave, and kissing off I like to do the rest of the process outside, weather permitting. Fill your vat 1/3 to 1/2 full of water. Add the plant pulp to the water and stir with your hand to distribute the fibres evenly (hogging the vat). Using a mold and deckle with the plain deckle frame positioned on top of the screened mold (the screen side up) and held tightly together, use a side to side and back and forth motion (throwing the wave) to dip the assembly into the water as you scoop up water and fibre and lift it out still holding the mold and deckle together. Let the water drain away. Some plant fibres are too coarse so the water drains away too quickly and the fibres clump together. This is where the thickener comes in. If you find that the water is draining from the screen too quickly and not allowing enough time to form an even sheet of paper, add a small palm full of the formation aid to the vat and stir it into the fibres. Add more if needed. This will keep the water from draining too quickly. Some plant fibres have enough small fibres in the mix to help keep the water from draining through the screen too fast so formation aid isn't needed. Trial and error. Adding recycled paper pulp to the plant fibres also keeps the water from draining too quickly (which is also why you don't necessarily need formation aid) and makes your plant fibres stretch further. I usually make some paper from the pure plant fibres and then make some with recycled paper pulp added to give me some texture and colour variation in the batch. How much fibre you pick up with each dip is also a matter of trial and error. Remember that as the sheets dry, they will be thinner. If you want to make cards, you will want a thicker paper than if you are using it for collage. If you scoop up too much fibre or it's clumped or otherwise not acceptable, just turn it over and shake it back into the water (kissing it off). Step Five: Pressing the paper There are many different methods for pressing your paper as it dries. I have enough molds to dry some sheets of paper on the molds. Some fibres shrink more than others and by leaving them on the screen, it holds them taut as they dry so there is less chance that they will curl and crinkle. Even if your papers crinkle, they can sometimes be flattened by misting them with water and then putting them under weights to dry again. Also, if you are gluing them onto something, that will relax them as well but keep them pressed until the glue dries. If you're not happy with the way a paper turns out, you can re-soak it and redo it or try mixing it with some recycled paper pulp. For most of my paper, I use the following method. Lean your smooth drying board against something to hold it in an upright position (a chair, a tree, etc.) near your vat. If you are working indoors, set the assembly in a large plastic storage container or child's wading pool. After you remove your fresh sheet of paper from the vat and it has drained, lift the deckle off the mold and set it aside. Ready for pressing. I never got around to putting duct tape on this mold. This photo is from another session as DH wasn't handy to take the photo this time. With the paper still on the screen, hold it face down on the drying board (try not to move it or it will distort). From the back, use your sponge to carefully press against it, sponging up the excess moisture and pressing it to the board. Now gently remove the mold. You should have a perfectly beautiful piece of wet paper stuck to the board where it will be left to dry. If you have torn or distorted it, just scoop it up and throw it back into the vat. This session: field grass paper with recycled paper, willow and recycled paper, pure swamp grass paper Fill up your board and leave your paper to dry. Don't dry in the direct sunlight as drying the sheets too fast often causing premature lifting and distortion. I do dry the paper that is left on the molds in the sunshine though. Also, green papers will fade with light. The colour in the chlorophyll is very fugitive. When your paper is dry. it should just peel of the board. One side will be smooth and the other will have a slight texture. The paper that is dried on the screen will have one slightly rough side from the texture of the screen and one coarse side. I prefer this for some projects. The handmade papers look so beautiful, I almost hate to use them. This unsized paper is fine for ballpoint ink, pencil, crayons, and block printing and for notecards or other craft projects. For very liquid art media, the paper should have size added which can be done in the vat or brushed on after. I never use size. If I want to paint with acrylics on the handmade paper, I use clear gesso first, although the plain acrylics would probably work fine. Here's what you will need to make your paper, using my methods: Plant materials Recycled paper - preferably decent quality paper such as bond but I also use recycled manilla or kraft envelopes for their earthier colour. Newsprint is not recommended. Safety goggles/glasses - I recommend wearing them when cutting your plant material in case of flying bits and when handling the soda ash. Better to be safe. Scissors or shears Rubber or latex gloves. The soda ash and water will dry out your hands. A stainless steel or enamel pot (at least one gallon) Soda ash (sodium carbonate), also available as a pH increaser for hot tubs Stainless steel, wood, or plastic stirring implement Cheesecloth bag (used by hunters for game) or a jelly bag (in the canning goods department) or a paint straining bag A couple of small buckets or bowls for soaking recycled paper and for holding plant fibre A blender (I buy these at garage sales for a couple of dollars rather than use my good one) A vat - a dishpan will do for small sheets of paper but bigger sheets will require a larger vat such as a plastic underbed storage container (not too deep) A mold and deckle - you can use two picture frames the same size or make two very basic wooden frames the same size using pieces of wood about 1" thick and 1 1/2 to 2" wide. Inside dimensions vary. I like 5x7 to make small notecards 3 1/2 x 5" and 6x8" for larger cards. I also have some larger sizes for other projects. On one frame, staple a piece of screening material the outside dimension of the frame. You can use window screening to start but you may want to use the fibremesh screening material available from papermaking suppliers for larger molds or if you'll be doing a lot of papermaking. As these stretch they can be re-tightened with steam. Window screening would have to be re-stapled. Cover the staples and mesh along the frame with duct tape to keep fibres from catching. Note: It's a good idea to put a coat of varnish or other sealer on your wood to prevent water soaking in and warping the frames. However, I never have and mine are still okay 15 years later. I just let them dry after use. Formation aid (from papermaking supplier) or methyl cellulose or carageenan (thickener if needed) A sponge A smooth surface to dry your sheets of paper on - I use old drafting table tops from garage sales as well as left over counter top material. If anything seems unclear or if you have further questions, please feel free to let me know in the comments. And if all of this is just too much work, feel free to visit my Etsy shop where you'll find handmade paper greeting cards already made! Pansies on handmade paper. In future tutorials I'll show you some of the ways I use my handmade papers in art and crafts as well as dyeing your paper pulp with natural dyes. Resources Here are a few of the resources I have found the most useful: Papermaking with Plants, Helen Hiebert The Craft of Handmade Paper, John Plowman Papermaking for Basketry and Other Crafts, edited by Lynn Stearns Art and Craft of Papermaking, Sophie Dawson Papermaker’s Companion, Helen Hiebert Paper Pleasures, Faith Shannon Suppliers The Paperwright - I have dealt with this supplier for years and they have always been very good to deal with. They are located in Ontario, Canada and welcome international orders. The Papertrail - Vivian from Lady in the Tower on Etsy just told me about this supplier, her favourite. I checked out their website and I'm impressed with all they have to offer as well. They are also based in Ontario, Canada and sell internationally. I haven't ordered from the U.S. but a quick search brought up a number of suppliers under "papermaking supplies."

Home, work and enjoyable daily life combine in Anna Teurnell’s beautiful and inspiring Stockholm apartment. The home has been updated gently, allowing patina to show in places. Take a tour with Design Stories!

I’ve been recovering from an intensive two weeks making this (I’ll let the photos do most of the talking, but it is at my daughter Anna’s partner’s house on the hill. The do…

I’m always intrigued by gardening as it’s something I admire immensely, but know little about. Landscape designer Miranda Brooks (remember her charming home?) always seems to work magic outdoors, and this garden, belonging to Vogue editor Anna Wintour, strikes the perfect balance of manicured yet unruly. Published today by T Magazine, I so enjoyed learning about Miranda’s childhood in Hertfordshire and […]

Summer is really here. Last month it was a treat to do yard work. I mean, we'd been stuck indoors for quite a few months. So it was fun to be out in the fresh air, digging, planting, mowing. Yessiree.... in the garden from dawn to dusk. Well, it's too damn hot for that kind of nonsense now. And our yards are beginning to show that we've lost interest. The dandelions are back. Now, before you reach for the weedkiller, give this a thought. Dandelions are edible. Just like lettuce. Some folks actually like dandelions. And... THEY'RE FREE!! Ma knew better than to look a gift horse in the mouth. Or to just toss out a plant that had decided to invite itself into her garden. Especially an edible plant. Remember those three months in Malta during WW II? The higher gas prices are affecting our grocery bills. Now is the time to get a little creative with our menus. Praise God and pass the salad. And the garlic. Dandelion Salad Remove undesirable leaves, so that you have 1 pound fresh dandelion leaves Cut into 2- inch pieces Wash in cold water, drain and dry thoroughly. Place leaves in a bowl and refrigerate about 10 minutes. Combine 4 Tablespoons olive oil 2 Tablespoons wine vinegar 1 clove garlic, minced salt freshly ground black pepper Pour over leaves. Toss well. Check seasoning. Add 12 ripe olives Serve immediately. And don't tell them until after they've eaten it.

Nepeta faassenii 'Six Hills Giant' (Kattenkruid) Nepeta faassenii 'Six Hills Giant', een kattenkruid, is een prachtige borderplant in combinatie met bijvoorbeeld Salvia's en Echinacea. De hoogte van Nepeta faassenii 'Six Hills Giant' bedraagt 50-70 cm en dit kattekruid vraagt een behoorlijk zonnige standplaats. Nepeta faassenii 'Six Hills Giant' kan goed gebruikt worden in de voorrand van een paarse themaborder of als vakbeplanting in combinatie met een Buxusrand. U kunt Nepeta beter niet gebruiken als u katten wilt weren: katten zijn er gek op! ...

Anna Louise Harris, a California native who grew up east of San Francisco, migrated to the Pacific Northwest 4 years ago. She lives in the Woodlawn neighborhood of Portland, Oregon. She shares her hom

Het is een bijzonder spel van kleuren en lijnen, als je vanuit de lucht naar de Hollandse bollenvelden kijkt. Fotograaf Normann Szkop maakte foto’s vanuit de lucht. Magisch. Bollenvelden vanuit de lucht Wat een prachtige serie foto’s van deze fotograaf, geschoten vanuit een helikopter. De beelden zijn van de tulpenvelden bij Anna Paulowna in Noord Holland. […]

Ook zonder (directe) zon kunnen planten floreren. Welke schaduwplant laat jij in je border schitteren?

Deze lijst bevat de beste zomerbloeiende planten voor bijen. Je vind hier zowel vaste planten en eenjarigen als struiken en bomen. En allemaal trekken ze bijen aan. Geïnspireerd op de tips van bijenexpert en hoogleraar Dave Goulson.

De Campanula lactiflora ‘Loddon Anna’ of Klokjesbloem is opgaande vaste plant, die ongeveer 140 cm hoog kan worden. Hierdoor is de plant uitermate geschikt voor achterin een (zomer)border of op andere zonnige plekken in de tuin. De plant komt het best tot zijn recht wanneer deze in groepen aangeplant wordt. In de zomermaanden verschijnen de vele, kleine, lichtroze bloemetjes bovenin de planten. Een groot voordeel van de Campanula lactiflora ‘Loddon Anna’ is dat deze zeer winterhard is; tot wel -35 graden Celsius! Daarnaast wordt het door velen gewaardeerd dat de plant zeer aantrekkelijk is voor vlinders. Bij het aanplanten Tuinplantengrond toevoegen.

Swedish garden designer Annika Zetterman, author of , brings to life gardens that seamlessly extend the natural Swedish landscape. For clients on the islan

Explore erin lanigan's 58885 photos on Flickr!

For our campaign LET`S PLANT, the let`s plant team made a visit to one of the renown institute in Pakistan for their prominent role in plant conservation. There the team met Dr. Irfan Aziz, a physiological ecologist of Mangrove and other woody Halophytes. This institutes works on utilizing the degraded lands and brackish waters for growing plants for economic purposes. Mainly their mission is to take measures for a cleaner, greener land. While talking to the expert the team found out how necessary it was to plant trees.One more serious matter that Dr. Irfan pointed towards was making the right selection of plants for plantation. Talking to him the team learned that plantation is not just a mere project of planting any other plant along roadside or somewhere else, but it is a matter to be taken seriously because choosing the wrong plant may result in future consequences. According to him the steps taken for a greener Karachi in 2008 had a negative impact on ecology of Karachi. By planting a single species resulted in lack of diversification and deteriorated the natural flora and fauna of Karachi. The vast plantation of Conocarpus proved harmful as predicted by other ecologists and botanist before the start of of this project. He further added that plants that are native to specific locality should be preferred rather than alien species like Conocarpus and Eucalyptus. Such plants are drought tolerant and have deep root system that can dig deep down the earth`s crust and absorb the underground reserved water leading to a decline in underground water table. To help the team with their mission Dr. Irfan suggested them with some of the common and beneficial plants that might aide the teams struggle towards a greener Pakistan. Following is a list of plants to whom he gave a green light to... Gum tree (Acacia nilotica): Locally known as Babul. A plant which can be used as both a road side tree for its shade and as protective hedges for its thorns. Also produces gum that is used in medicines. This plant can grow in soil with higher proportion of sand. Gum Tree Gum Tree inflorescence Golden rain tree (Cassia fistula): Locally known as Amaltas. This plant is a fast growing tree achieving a height of about 60 feet, an ideal choice for road side plantation. Used as medicine in herbalism. Shows relatively good growth in sandy soil. Golden Rain Tree Golden Rain flower Neem Tree (Azadirachta indica): A remarkable drought tolerant plant that can grow rapidly achieving a height of about 66 feet and sometimes 100 feet. It has wide spread branching forming a fairly dense crown. An ideal plant recommended for its shade. Neem Tree Neem Tree inflorescence Rohida (Tecomella undulata): This is a xerophytic plant that can grow in high temperature as well as in extremely low temperature. Can be used as a road side tree for its ever green nature and its beautiful showy flowers. Rohida Tree Rohida flower Cotton Tree (Bombax ceiba): Locally known as Sumbal or Semal tree. This tree can grow up to 20 meters and sometimes even more. Cotton tree serve as an ideal plant for attracting wild fauna like birds, insects, bees etc for its attractive flowers. Sumbal Tree Sumbal flowers Flame Tree (Delonix regia): Locally known as Gulmohar. This plant is added to the list because of its attractive flowering. On full bloom the sight looks stunning. A good choice for road sides and backyards. Flame Tree Flame Tree flowers False Ashoka (Polyalthia longifolia): A lofty ever green tree, commonly planted for alleviating noise pollution. If this tree is allowed to grow naturally without trimming the branches it grows into a normal large tree with plenty of shades. Ideal for side walks and public places. False Ashoka Tree Portia Tree (Thespesia populnea): This plant is usually found around coast lines but can grow in areas where there is approx. 20-63 in of annual rainfall. Although this plant does not attain a tall height but it can still be used as a tall shrub for its attractive flowering along side walks and roundabouts. Portia Tree Portia flower Moreover, Dr. Irfan also recommended some flowering shrubs and herbs that may enhance the beauty of the landscape. These plants although have a dwarf height but they still help in maintaining a greener and Eco-friendly environment. Such plants may include; Indian Aloe (Aloe vera): A stemless or short stem plant with succulent leaves. A successful indoor potted plant. Can also be used as an ornament in public places and around national monuments. Indian Aloe Castor-Oil-Plant (Ricinus communis): Commonly known to all the locals due to its oil (Castor oil). Regardless of having tremendous uses in medicinal field, this plant can add beauty to a landscape with its variation in leaf color. Castor-Oil-Plant Castor-Oil-Plant fruit Bougainvillea: Commonly known as Bougenville. Most common ornamental plant grows mainly in warmer climate. This plant can be selected for its showy inflorescence. Can be planted along wall sides and around landscapes. Bougainvillea Not just this Dr. Irfan further added names of grasses that can be planted for a much greener and attractive texture. According to him grasses if planted side by side with the trees would enhance the landscape and would even help in covering the rough ground. He added two common and rapidly growing grass species in this list Paspalum distichum: A perennial grass growing in regions having abundant supply of water. Can grow up to 60 cm. The inflorescence is usually divided into two branches lined with spikelets. This grass shows efficient growth in sewage water as it is heavy metal tolerant and requires large amount of water. Paspalum distichum Paspalidium sp.: This grass grows is a tropical and sub tropical regions. These are perennials that grow in large water supply zones. Paspalidium sp. These were the few plant species that Dr. Irfan shared with us. He also told the team that he would help them further with their project and would update them with even more plant species. After this whole conversation the team headed back, taking with them the great treasures of knowledge Dr. Irfan Aziz shared with them. May he be blessed for his cooperation. This was not the end but it is indeed just the beginning of the teams long journey for propagating and conserving this nature`s gift. But this is not just a task that could be done by few members of a team. Every other person in this city needs to stand up on this matter and start planting as much trees as possible. Don`t ignore this. Stand up help this planet be a better place to live. So what are you waiting for LET`S PLANT...!!!

Nigella sativa At first glance this may appear to be the unassuming, old fashioned cottage flower, Love-in-a-Mist, but this species has a powerful twist. It’s also known as Black Seed, Black Cumin, Fennel Flower, and other misleading names, as it is neither cumin nor fennel. Its seeds are used in Eastern dishes for add %%Excerpt%%

haver & landskaber - landscape & visual art

Stond de akelei vorig jaar vooraan in de border, popt ze dit seizoen zomaar ergens anders op, en ook nog eens in andere kleuren.

Luxe macrame hanger met kralen [Anna's Macramé]® Creëer een gezellige sfeer met deze hand gemaakte macrame hanger die gemaakt is van 100% katoen. Door de nette afwerking en kwaliteit materiaal is deze macramé hanger echt een eye-catcher in elke huis of tuin! Door de stevige ophanghaak en het flexibele duurzame katoen kan de macrame hanger veel gewicht aan en is het geschikt voor verschillende soorten en maten planten potten. Seizoen gebruik Deze macramé hanger kan je voor meerdere doeleinden gebruiken, ieder seizoen weer iets nieuws bijvoorbeeld: Zomer - Hangplant Herfst - pompoen Winter: - Kerstbal Voorjaar - Voorjaars bloeiers Informatie Ook geschikt voor buiten gebruik. 100% katoen Lengte: 80 centimeter 2 stuks in de verpakking * Exclusief bloempot, pompoen, stuk hout.

Iris: "The Bearded Beauty" In Greek mythology, Iris is the goddess of the rainbow. This is a fitting literary connection for the iris, a genus whose member