20+ BB Frosch chalk paint powder makeovers. LOTS of ideas YOU can do, really! All of these projects are completed by non-professionals, easy before/after home decor and furniture ideas!
20+ BB Frosch chalk paint powder makeovers. LOTS of ideas YOU can do, really! All of these projects are completed by non-professionals, easy before/after home decor and furniture ideas!
CHALK/MINERAL-PAINTED FILING CABINET | DO IT YOURSELF OFFICE PROJECT | AFFORDABLE DIY OFFICE DECOR I found a filing cabinet at Goodwill awhile back for just .99 cents, so of course I brought it home. Functionally, it was exactly what I needed. Aesthetically, not so much. Last week, it was finally time to give the cabinet #thefroscheffect. I removed the hardware before I took a before picture, but it basically looked like every single other metal filing cabinet you’ve ever seen--you get the idea. I washed scuff marks with a sponge and Pine-sol, but that was the only prep work I did. As I always do, I made my own chalk/mineral paint with BB Frösch Paint Transformer. I had my local Home Depot paint guy mix a sample jar of Behr paint in Benjamin Moore’s “Pacific Grove Pink.” Most Home Depot paint counters have the color formulas for other paint brands, which makes it super convenient to get whatever color chalk/mineral paint I want! I also used a can of leftover Rustoleum Metallic gold spray paint. I also used four table legs I found at Home Depot for this project. They cost about $3 each. I marked and drilled holes on the underside of the cabinet so I could screw the legs in after everything was painted. After removing the hardware and drilling the holes, I painted one thin coat using cross-hatch strokes. Cross-hatch strokes help with the self-leveling properties of the paint so that the subsequent coat(s) will settle in for a nice, smooth finish. The first coat should be thin and won’t look like awesome coverage, but it is important when painting metal (or other less-porous surfaces) to simply get a thin coat of paint on and not overwork your brush. Overworking your brush or trying to paint too thick of a coat will lift your paint as you go. After I painted the first coat, it occurred to me that it would be easier to paint without the drawers in place, so I looked up a video on youtube. Turns out, removing filing cabinet drawers is embarrassingly simple! Just press up on the bar on the underside of the drawer as you pull the drawer out, and it will slide out easily! Even though paint transformer helps your paint dry super quickly, when it comes to painting metal, it helps to give extra dry time so the paint can fully cure. So, while waiting for the paint to bond and cure, I painted the legs and hardware with a coat of the paint I'd mixed for the filing cabinet. This acts as a bonding coat for the spray paint that could otherwise easily peel off. Once the layer of paint on the legs and hardware was dry, I sprayed one coat of gold spray paint over everything. I did not seal the gold pieces with finishing wax because using a wax brush can dull the sheen. Instead, I applied two thin coats of Minwax polyacrylic. I painted the second coat after about an hour and decided to wait until the next morning to touch up any areas that needed a third coat. Waiting the extra day made a huge difference for the paint to bond! I gave a quick pass over the whole cabinet with 400 grit sandpaper to give it a nice, smooth finish.Then, I waxed with BB Frösch Premium Clear Premium Finishing Wax. And, just like that, I have a super cute new filing cabinet to go with the sign in my office! If you are like me and prefer a video tutorial, hop over to youtube and watch the process here. The whole project cost less than $20--filing cabinet and legs included! Definitely one of my quickest, most affordable and all-around favorite makeovers to-date!
AFFORDABLE DO IT YOURSELF HOME PROJECTS | PAINTED TILE | DIY TABLE MAKEOVER A friend recently reached out to ask if we’d help her makeover her tile table using our recent staircase makeover as inspiration. Painting tile is no problem when you add BB Frösch Paint Transformer to your paint, but I hadn’t seen an actual tile table in decades, so I wasn’t quite sure what we were up against, until she sent over this picture: The good news was, ANYTHING we did to it would be better than the boring, dated, lifeless state is was currently in! Our friend chose what stencils she wanted as well as the colors, then we got to work. First, we mixed each color of paint with BB Frösch Paint Transformer so our paint would easily bond with the tile. We also used white paint and navy paint that we had on hand from the floor makeover. Next, we cleaned the table with Pine-sol and taped of the edge of the tile insert. If the original tile had already been white, we would have just began stenciling, but the brown tile had to go, so we first painted the entire tile insert white. Although we used a brush, this step could easily be done with a roller. Notice the first coat is fairly thin. When painting tile, or any less-porous surface, I recommend a few things to help with bonding: Add extra powder to your paint Paint the first coat thin—it’s a bonding coat that gives the second coat something to stick to. A thick first coat will not only take longer to dry and cure, it will be harder for the second coat to level into, which makes it harder to achieve a nice, smooth finish. Allow the first coat to fully dry AND cure. Drying takes only minutes, but curing could take up to 24 hours. When painting the second coat, DON’T OVERWORK YOUR BRUSH! Because a second coat introduces moisture, the first coat could more easily lift, especially if you over-work your brush. If the first coat does happen to lift a little, stop there, allow the area to dry, smooth with sandpaper, then try again. After two coats of white, the tile was ready to stencil. We used various left-over stencils from previous projects and alternated the colors for a completely random pattern. Blaire even helped! Isn't it awesome that chalk/mineral painting is something everyone can get involved in? For tips on avoiding bleed when stenciling check out these stenciling posts: chalk/mineral painted linoleum floor, chalk/mineral-painted tile tutorial. Once all the tiles were stenciled, the rest of the table was painted navy, and the whole table was sealed with the same water-based poly we used for the floor project and the stair project. We have a TON of this stuff, so you can expect to see it on future projects! Although the skirt and legs could have easily been waxed for a softer appearance, it was easiest to just seal the whole table at once. If you don't love super shiny, just select a matte poly instead of a glossy one. The key is making sure whatever poly you use is water-based. I don’t recommend sealing painted tile with wax. Poly is a little more challenging to apply, but it holds up better on tile. I can't say I'd be on the hunt for a table with a tile insert just to do a project like this, but if you find one for cheap at a thrift store, or you've been handed one down from Grandma, this update solution is a WIN!
AFFORDABLE DO IT YOURSELF HOME PROJECTS | PAINTED TILE | DIY TABLE MAKEOVER A friend recently reached out to ask if we’d help her makeover her tile table using our recent staircase makeover as inspiration. Painting tile is no problem when you add BB Frösch Paint Transformer to your paint, but I hadn’t seen an actual tile table in decades, so I wasn’t quite sure what we were up against, until she sent over this picture: The good news was, ANYTHING we did to it would be better than the boring, dated, lifeless state is was currently in! Our friend chose what stencils she wanted as well as the colors, then we got to work. First, we mixed each color of paint with BB Frösch Paint Transformer so our paint would easily bond with the tile. We also used white paint and navy paint that we had on hand from the floor makeover. Next, we cleaned the table with Pine-sol and taped of the edge of the tile insert. If the original tile had already been white, we would have just began stenciling, but the brown tile had to go, so we first painted the entire tile insert white. Although we used a brush, this step could easily be done with a roller. Notice the first coat is fairly thin. When painting tile, or any less-porous surface, I recommend a few things to help with bonding: Add extra powder to your paint Paint the first coat thin—it’s a bonding coat that gives the second coat something to stick to. A thick first coat will not only take longer to dry and cure, it will be harder for the second coat to level into, which makes it harder to achieve a nice, smooth finish. Allow the first coat to fully dry AND cure. Drying takes only minutes, but curing could take up to 24 hours. When painting the second coat, DON’T OVERWORK YOUR BRUSH! Because a second coat introduces moisture, the first coat could more easily lift, especially if you over-work your brush. If the first coat does happen to lift a little, stop there, allow the area to dry, smooth with sandpaper, then try again. After two coats of white, the tile was ready to stencil. We used various left-over stencils from previous projects and alternated the colors for a completely random pattern. Blaire even helped! Isn't it awesome that chalk/mineral painting is something everyone can get involved in? For tips on avoiding bleed when stenciling check out these stenciling posts: chalk/mineral painted linoleum floor, chalk/mineral-painted tile tutorial. Once all the tiles were stenciled, the rest of the table was painted navy, and the whole table was sealed with the same water-based poly we used for the floor project and the stair project. We have a TON of this stuff, so you can expect to see it on future projects! Although the skirt and legs could have easily been waxed for a softer appearance, it was easiest to just seal the whole table at once. If you don't love super shiny, just select a matte poly instead of a glossy one. The key is making sure whatever poly you use is water-based. I don’t recommend sealing painted tile with wax. Poly is a little more challenging to apply, but it holds up better on tile. I can't say I'd be on the hunt for a table with a tile insert just to do a project like this, but if you find one for cheap at a thrift store, or you've been handed one down from Grandma, this update solution is a WIN!
I have been on the fence for years about an antique hutch that sits off my kitchen. From afar, it was amazing. Sadly, up close, the hutch had A LOT of problems! To bring the
20+ BB Frosch chalk paint powder makeovers. LOTS of ideas YOU can do, really! All of these projects are completed by non-professionals, easy before/after home decor and furniture ideas!
CHALK/MINERAL-PAINTED FILING CABINET | DO IT YOURSELF OFFICE PROJECT | AFFORDABLE DIY OFFICE DECOR I found a filing cabinet at Goodwill awhile back for just .99 cents, so of course I brought it home. Functionally, it was exactly what I needed. Aesthetically, not so much. Last week, it was finally time to give the cabinet #thefroscheffect. I removed the hardware before I took a before picture, but it basically looked like every single other metal filing cabinet you’ve ever seen--you get the idea. I washed scuff marks with a sponge and Pine-sol, but that was the only prep work I did. As I always do, I made my own chalk/mineral paint with BB Frösch Paint Transformer. I had my local Home Depot paint guy mix a sample jar of Behr paint in Benjamin Moore’s “Pacific Grove Pink.” Most Home Depot paint counters have the color formulas for other paint brands, which makes it super convenient to get whatever color chalk/mineral paint I want! I also used a can of leftover Rustoleum Metallic gold spray paint. I also used four table legs I found at Home Depot for this project. They cost about $3 each. I marked and drilled holes on the underside of the cabinet so I could screw the legs in after everything was painted. After removing the hardware and drilling the holes, I painted one thin coat using cross-hatch strokes. Cross-hatch strokes help with the self-leveling properties of the paint so that the subsequent coat(s) will settle in for a nice, smooth finish. The first coat should be thin and won’t look like awesome coverage, but it is important when painting metal (or other less-porous surfaces) to simply get a thin coat of paint on and not overwork your brush. Overworking your brush or trying to paint too thick of a coat will lift your paint as you go. After I painted the first coat, it occurred to me that it would be easier to paint without the drawers in place, so I looked up a video on youtube. Turns out, removing filing cabinet drawers is embarrassingly simple! Just press up on the bar on the underside of the drawer as you pull the drawer out, and it will slide out easily! Even though paint transformer helps your paint dry super quickly, when it comes to painting metal, it helps to give extra dry time so the paint can fully cure. So, while waiting for the paint to bond and cure, I painted the legs and hardware with a coat of the paint I'd mixed for the filing cabinet. This acts as a bonding coat for the spray paint that could otherwise easily peel off. Once the layer of paint on the legs and hardware was dry, I sprayed one coat of gold spray paint over everything. I did not seal the gold pieces with finishing wax because using a wax brush can dull the sheen. Instead, I applied two thin coats of Minwax polyacrylic. I painted the second coat after about an hour and decided to wait until the next morning to touch up any areas that needed a third coat. Waiting the extra day made a huge difference for the paint to bond! I gave a quick pass over the whole cabinet with 400 grit sandpaper to give it a nice, smooth finish.Then, I waxed with BB Frösch Premium Clear Premium Finishing Wax. And, just like that, I have a super cute new filing cabinet to go with the sign in my office! If you are like me and prefer a video tutorial, hop over to youtube and watch the process here. The whole project cost less than $20--filing cabinet and legs included! Definitely one of my quickest, most affordable and all-around favorite makeovers to-date!
CHALK/MINERAL-PAINTED FILING CABINET | DO IT YOURSELF OFFICE PROJECT | AFFORDABLE DIY OFFICE DECOR I found a filing cabinet at Goodwill awhile back for just .99 cents, so of course I brought it home. Functionally, it was exactly what I needed. Aesthetically, not so much. Last week, it was finally time to give the cabinet #thefroscheffect. I removed the hardware before I took a before picture, but it basically looked like every single other metal filing cabinet you’ve ever seen--you get the idea. I washed scuff marks with a sponge and Pine-sol, but that was the only prep work I did. As I always do, I made my own chalk/mineral paint with BB Frösch Paint Transformer. I had my local Home Depot paint guy mix a sample jar of Behr paint in Benjamin Moore’s “Pacific Grove Pink.” Most Home Depot paint counters have the color formulas for other paint brands, which makes it super convenient to get whatever color chalk/mineral paint I want! I also used a can of leftover Rustoleum Metallic gold spray paint. I also used four table legs I found at Home Depot for this project. They cost about $3 each. I marked and drilled holes on the underside of the cabinet so I could screw the legs in after everything was painted. After removing the hardware and drilling the holes, I painted one thin coat using cross-hatch strokes. Cross-hatch strokes help with the self-leveling properties of the paint so that the subsequent coat(s) will settle in for a nice, smooth finish. The first coat should be thin and won’t look like awesome coverage, but it is important when painting metal (or other less-porous surfaces) to simply get a thin coat of paint on and not overwork your brush. Overworking your brush or trying to paint too thick of a coat will lift your paint as you go. After I painted the first coat, it occurred to me that it would be easier to paint without the drawers in place, so I looked up a video on youtube. Turns out, removing filing cabinet drawers is embarrassingly simple! Just press up on the bar on the underside of the drawer as you pull the drawer out, and it will slide out easily! Even though paint transformer helps your paint dry super quickly, when it comes to painting metal, it helps to give extra dry time so the paint can fully cure. So, while waiting for the paint to bond and cure, I painted the legs and hardware with a coat of the paint I'd mixed for the filing cabinet. This acts as a bonding coat for the spray paint that could otherwise easily peel off. Once the layer of paint on the legs and hardware was dry, I sprayed one coat of gold spray paint over everything. I did not seal the gold pieces with finishing wax because using a wax brush can dull the sheen. Instead, I applied two thin coats of Minwax polyacrylic. I painted the second coat after about an hour and decided to wait until the next morning to touch up any areas that needed a third coat. Waiting the extra day made a huge difference for the paint to bond! I gave a quick pass over the whole cabinet with 400 grit sandpaper to give it a nice, smooth finish.Then, I waxed with BB Frösch Premium Clear Premium Finishing Wax. And, just like that, I have a super cute new filing cabinet to go with the sign in my office! If you are like me and prefer a video tutorial, hop over to youtube and watch the process here. The whole project cost less than $20--filing cabinet and legs included! Definitely one of my quickest, most affordable and all-around favorite makeovers to-date!
Now, with Youtube videos for guidance, DIY has never been easier and more available to everyone. Of course, there are still certain areas where a professional is definitely needed, but sometimes all it takes is some basic carpentry, a lick of paint and a creative mind to make even the most rundown room look fresh and modern!
AFFORDABLE DO IT YOURSELF HOME PROJECTS | PAINTED TILE | DIY TABLE MAKEOVER A friend recently reached out to ask if we’d help her makeover her tile table using our recent staircase makeover as inspiration. Painting tile is no problem when you add BB Frösch Paint Transformer to your paint, but I hadn’t seen an actual tile table in decades, so I wasn’t quite sure what we were up against, until she sent over this picture: The good news was, ANYTHING we did to it would be better than the boring, dated, lifeless state is was currently in! Our friend chose what stencils she wanted as well as the colors, then we got to work. First, we mixed each color of paint with BB Frösch Paint Transformer so our paint would easily bond with the tile. We also used white paint and navy paint that we had on hand from the floor makeover. Next, we cleaned the table with Pine-sol and taped of the edge of the tile insert. If the original tile had already been white, we would have just began stenciling, but the brown tile had to go, so we first painted the entire tile insert white. Although we used a brush, this step could easily be done with a roller. Notice the first coat is fairly thin. When painting tile, or any less-porous surface, I recommend a few things to help with bonding: Add extra powder to your paint Paint the first coat thin—it’s a bonding coat that gives the second coat something to stick to. A thick first coat will not only take longer to dry and cure, it will be harder for the second coat to level into, which makes it harder to achieve a nice, smooth finish. Allow the first coat to fully dry AND cure. Drying takes only minutes, but curing could take up to 24 hours. When painting the second coat, DON’T OVERWORK YOUR BRUSH! Because a second coat introduces moisture, the first coat could more easily lift, especially if you over-work your brush. If the first coat does happen to lift a little, stop there, allow the area to dry, smooth with sandpaper, then try again. After two coats of white, the tile was ready to stencil. We used various left-over stencils from previous projects and alternated the colors for a completely random pattern. Blaire even helped! Isn't it awesome that chalk/mineral painting is something everyone can get involved in? For tips on avoiding bleed when stenciling check out these stenciling posts: chalk/mineral painted linoleum floor, chalk/mineral-painted tile tutorial. Once all the tiles were stenciled, the rest of the table was painted navy, and the whole table was sealed with the same water-based poly we used for the floor project and the stair project. We have a TON of this stuff, so you can expect to see it on future projects! Although the skirt and legs could have easily been waxed for a softer appearance, it was easiest to just seal the whole table at once. If you don't love super shiny, just select a matte poly instead of a glossy one. The key is making sure whatever poly you use is water-based. I don’t recommend sealing painted tile with wax. Poly is a little more challenging to apply, but it holds up better on tile. I can't say I'd be on the hunt for a table with a tile insert just to do a project like this, but if you find one for cheap at a thrift store, or you've been handed one down from Grandma, this update solution is a WIN!
PAINTED FILING CABINET | AFFORDABLE OFFICE MAKEOVER | HOW TO USE CHALK PAINT IN A SPRAYER We scored this filing cabinet for free from someone who was moving. It’s great storage for the office but “Ma’s Files” and the boring color needed to go. Make sure you have a super sweet professional set up like ours with drop cloths hanging from the garage doors you plan to paint in front of, haha! Before any painting began we numbered the drawers on the back. I recommend doing this for anything with drawers, because they can often be slightly different, and you don’t want them to get mixed up when you go to put them back. We also wiped down the filing cabinet. Any good household cleaner will do. We sprayed the handles with this spray paint. I just had this on hand because we love gold! We love how quickly a paint sprayer makes projects like these, so we used BB Frösch with our favorite Home Right Finish Max sprayer. If you don’t add BB Frösch Paint Transformer, your paint won’t stick, so don’t skip this part! First, we mixed our BB Frösch Paint Transformer with water. The key here is to stir to a doughnut glaze consistency, then add more water after adding your paint (because you will need to thin slightly for use in a sprayer.) We mixed our powder and water in the hopper that comes with the sprayer because it comes with handy-dandy lines showing where to fill the paint to. We planned to mix up half a quart of paint. Note: We would have used less paint had we brushed, but sprayers have overspray and typically use more paint. For half quart of paint, use 4 HEAPING Tablespoons of BB Frösch Paint Transformer with at least 6 Tablespoons of water (add a little more if the mixture is too thick or clumpy.) If you use the Homeright Finishmax, your sprayer should come with a viscosity cup, which makes knowing how much to thin your paint a breeze. You want your paint to run through the entire cup at approximately 35 seconds. If it takes longer, your paint is too thick, so add 1/2 Tablespoon at a time until you get the right consistency. Note: Paint brands, sprayers, and your idea of heaping tablespoons all differ, which make it impossible to have a hard and fast rule about exactly how much to thin your paint for use in a sprayer. It helps to refer to the directions that come with your sprayer. You can see here we just poured the paint right into the hopper after mixing the paint transformer and water together. The color we used is a Benjamin Moore “Hale Navy,” but we had our friendly Home Depot paint guy mix it for us using Behr paint. Be sure to mix your paint and powder/water mixture WELL. You may want to run it through a paint strainer. Once your paint, paint transformer, and water are the desired consistency you may begin spraying. PRO TIP: Make sure your first coat is THIN! This will help ensure boning. It will look a little crazy but you will be blown away by just the second coat. Can you see this coverage?! This is the SECOND coat! We’re tellin’ ya, our paint transformer is magic! We went one direction for the first coat the other direction for the second (horizontal then vertical). We really let the paint cure before sealing. We waited about 2 hours. We are in a warm, dry state. If you are anywhere with humidity then wait longer. We always recommend using a water based poly so it won’t yellow. This one was in the clearance bin because the can was dented. So, we gave it a try for this project. Once the filing cabinet was painted, we cleaned out the sprayer and then used it to spray on the poly. We used the same technique we used for painting. Follow the directions on the can to know how many coats to do and how long to wait between coats. Note: You won’t need to thin your poly. Once painted and sealed, Kami put the hardware back on. We are in love, and once again, negotiating over who gets this beauty for their office! Alright, obsessed would be an understatement! This is the perfect touch to our home office. Yup, we love what we do and we have a lot of fun doing it! Be sure to always tag us in your BB Frösch Projects!
Gorgeous painted hutch makeover. Come see the before and after of this beautiful hutch using BB Frosch chalk paint powder!
20+ BB Frosch chalk paint powder makeovers. LOTS of ideas YOU can do, really! All of these projects are completed by non-professionals, easy before/after home decor and furniture ideas!
AFFORDABLE DO IT YOURSELF HOME PROJECTS | PAINTED TILE | DIY TABLE MAKEOVER A friend recently reached out to ask if we’d help her makeover her tile table using our recent staircase makeover as inspiration. Painting tile is no problem when you add BB Frösch Paint Transformer to your paint, but I hadn’t seen an actual tile table in decades, so I wasn’t quite sure what we were up against, until she sent over this picture: The good news was, ANYTHING we did to it would be better than the boring, dated, lifeless state is was currently in! Our friend chose what stencils she wanted as well as the colors, then we got to work. First, we mixed each color of paint with BB Frösch Paint Transformer so our paint would easily bond with the tile. We also used white paint and navy paint that we had on hand from the floor makeover. Next, we cleaned the table with Pine-sol and taped of the edge of the tile insert. If the original tile had already been white, we would have just began stenciling, but the brown tile had to go, so we first painted the entire tile insert white. Although we used a brush, this step could easily be done with a roller. Notice the first coat is fairly thin. When painting tile, or any less-porous surface, I recommend a few things to help with bonding: Add extra powder to your paint Paint the first coat thin—it’s a bonding coat that gives the second coat something to stick to. A thick first coat will not only take longer to dry and cure, it will be harder for the second coat to level into, which makes it harder to achieve a nice, smooth finish. Allow the first coat to fully dry AND cure. Drying takes only minutes, but curing could take up to 24 hours. When painting the second coat, DON’T OVERWORK YOUR BRUSH! Because a second coat introduces moisture, the first coat could more easily lift, especially if you over-work your brush. If the first coat does happen to lift a little, stop there, allow the area to dry, smooth with sandpaper, then try again. After two coats of white, the tile was ready to stencil. We used various left-over stencils from previous projects and alternated the colors for a completely random pattern. Blaire even helped! Isn't it awesome that chalk/mineral painting is something everyone can get involved in? For tips on avoiding bleed when stenciling check out these stenciling posts: chalk/mineral painted linoleum floor, chalk/mineral-painted tile tutorial. Once all the tiles were stenciled, the rest of the table was painted navy, and the whole table was sealed with the same water-based poly we used for the floor project and the stair project. We have a TON of this stuff, so you can expect to see it on future projects! Although the skirt and legs could have easily been waxed for a softer appearance, it was easiest to just seal the whole table at once. If you don't love super shiny, just select a matte poly instead of a glossy one. The key is making sure whatever poly you use is water-based. I don’t recommend sealing painted tile with wax. Poly is a little more challenging to apply, but it holds up better on tile. I can't say I'd be on the hunt for a table with a tile insert just to do a project like this, but if you find one for cheap at a thrift store, or you've been handed one down from Grandma, this update solution is a WIN!
AFFORDABLE DO IT YOURSELF HOME PROJECTS | PAINTED TILE | DIY TABLE MAKEOVER A friend recently reached out to ask if we’d help her makeover her tile table using our recent staircase makeover as inspiration. Painting tile is no problem when you add BB Frösch Paint Transformer to your paint, but I hadn’t seen an actual tile table in decades, so I wasn’t quite sure what we were up against, until she sent over this picture: The good news was, ANYTHING we did to it would be better than the boring, dated, lifeless state is was currently in! Our friend chose what stencils she wanted as well as the colors, then we got to work. First, we mixed each color of paint with BB Frösch Paint Transformer so our paint would easily bond with the tile. We also used white paint and navy paint that we had on hand from the floor makeover. Next, we cleaned the table with Pine-sol and taped of the edge of the tile insert. If the original tile had already been white, we would have just began stenciling, but the brown tile had to go, so we first painted the entire tile insert white. Although we used a brush, this step could easily be done with a roller. Notice the first coat is fairly thin. When painting tile, or any less-porous surface, I recommend a few things to help with bonding: Add extra powder to your paint Paint the first coat thin—it’s a bonding coat that gives the second coat something to stick to. A thick first coat will not only take longer to dry and cure, it will be harder for the second coat to level into, which makes it harder to achieve a nice, smooth finish. Allow the first coat to fully dry AND cure. Drying takes only minutes, but curing could take up to 24 hours. When painting the second coat, DON’T OVERWORK YOUR BRUSH! Because a second coat introduces moisture, the first coat could more easily lift, especially if you over-work your brush. If the first coat does happen to lift a little, stop there, allow the area to dry, smooth with sandpaper, then try again. After two coats of white, the tile was ready to stencil. We used various left-over stencils from previous projects and alternated the colors for a completely random pattern. Blaire even helped! Isn't it awesome that chalk/mineral painting is something everyone can get involved in? For tips on avoiding bleed when stenciling check out these stenciling posts: chalk/mineral painted linoleum floor, chalk/mineral-painted tile tutorial. Once all the tiles were stenciled, the rest of the table was painted navy, and the whole table was sealed with the same water-based poly we used for the floor project and the stair project. We have a TON of this stuff, so you can expect to see it on future projects! Although the skirt and legs could have easily been waxed for a softer appearance, it was easiest to just seal the whole table at once. If you don't love super shiny, just select a matte poly instead of a glossy one. The key is making sure whatever poly you use is water-based. I don’t recommend sealing painted tile with wax. Poly is a little more challenging to apply, but it holds up better on tile. I can't say I'd be on the hunt for a table with a tile insert just to do a project like this, but if you find one for cheap at a thrift store, or you've been handed one down from Grandma, this update solution is a WIN!
Te invit să descoperi 13 schimbări de look realizate în doar două zile, cu ajutorul consultanţei de imagine şi a echipei de beauty la Veranda Mall
