Free jewelry making tutorials, craft ideas, design inspirations, DIY, projects, tips and tricks and trends
Explore beadunsupervised's 770 photos on Flickr!
Free jewelry making tutorials, craft ideas, design inspirations, DIY, projects, tips and tricks and trends
This Adorable Airpods Case Crochet Pattern makes a cute case that holds the Airpods. They are easy to make and use up very little yarn and offer instant gratification crafting.
Jewellery, beadwork, embroider, free tutorials and recipes -- and cats!
Elkezdtem Cleohoz ( http://cleo-drotekszer.blogspot.com/ ) drótékszer tanfolyamra járni, még csak egy alkalmon voltam és még sokat kell gyakorolnom és tanulnom, de már rengeteg ötlet van a fejemben. Ezt a szerény tudást építettem be a kedvenc (gyöngyhímzés) technikámba és született meg ez a gyöngyhímzett drótos medál: minta: saját tervezés
February ~ Expanding My Constricted Heart March ~ For Little Christy (orange & yellow, colors of childhood) April ~ Serenity May ~ Blooming Christy H is a dear friend here on the island where I live. We share passions for beading and quilting. She's been beading ever since she took my class a couple of years ago and is a current member of the Bead Journal Project (BJP). She also participated in the first BJP. You may recall seeing her first eight BJP pieces. They're posted on the BJP website here... Finally I've gotten around to photgraphing Christy's remaining four pieces (above). We thought you might also like to see what she did with her 12 finished pieces, which so vibrantly chronicle her life from June, 2007 to May, 2008. She wanted to display them, framed together. Since I have some experience with framing bead embroidery pieces, she asked me to help her. We decided to mount them on a piece of fabric that would look good as a background for all of the pieces. Being a quilter, she has quite a fabric stash. After auditioning several fabrics, we chose a dark, muted red, striped fabric. We then bought a large piece of archival, 3/16" foam core board (get it here or at your local frame shop). Laying the fabric over the board, we arranged the pieces on top until the spacing looked pleasing. Then we measured the size we'd need and cut the board. This is how her pieces look framed! Below is a tutorial to follow for sucessful, no-glue mounting... A. In a similar manner to stretching a canvas for painting, stretch the fabric around the board and pin it in place: Cut 3/16" acid-free foam core board to size, being sure to include an adequate margin for overlap of the frame. Cut the fabric 3 inches larger than the board on all four sides. Turn under a 1/4 inch hem on the fabric and machine stitch using zig-zag stitch. Center the foam core board on the wrong side of the fabric. Starting in the center of the longer side, stretch the fabric around the board and pin in place. Work your way to the corners on one end, stretching and pinning. Start again at the center point and work your way to the other end of the board. Follow steps 5-6 to stretch the fabric around the shorter side of the board. Now the fabric should be stretched and pinned all around the board. B. Lace the fabric onto the board: Use a strong, nylon thread, such as Nymo D. Pre-stretch your thread. Starting at the center of the longer side, sew from side to side, zig-zagging your way to the corner. (See drawing below.) Start again at the center of the longer side, and lace in the opposite direction to the other end of the board. Lace the shorter side in the same way. Be sure to pull the thread really tight with each stitch. Adjust the pins if necessary. The laced thread should be quite taught, so that you can hear it "snap" when you lift it slightly and let it go. C. Sew your pieces to the board: For this mounting method, each piece must have a finished edge. Christy turned under the fabric and finished the edges with a picot edge stitch. (See picture in this post showing back side of finished piece.) Arrange the pieces on the fabric-covered board. Pin the pieces in place using a pin in each corner. Attach the centermost pieces first and work your way to the edges, adjusting placement if necessary. Select the centermost piece and push the corner pins all the way through the foam core board so that you can see them on the back side. Mark these four points on the back side of the board. Also mark the approximate center of these four points. Use a strong, nylon or synthetic thread, such as Nymo D, in a color that blends with the piece you are attaching. Make a large knot at the end of the doubled thread. Sew through the board from the back side at the marked center point to the surface of the piece, adjusting as necessary so that your needle pierces a place between two beads. Stitch betwen beads for a short distance and back down through the board to the back side. This is called tacking your piece to the board. Remove one of the corner pins and tack it in place in the same way as steps 8 & 9 above. Tack the other three corners of the piece. Is this enough tacking to hold your piece? How large is it? How heavy? Maybe you need to tack it in more places. Christy's pieces are about 4 inches square. She tacked each of them in about 10 places. Continue to tack each of the pieces in place the same way. D. Framing: Take your piece to a professional framer and select an appropriate frame. Use risers in the frame to insure that the glass does not touch textural elements on your beadwork. Hint: Be sure to cut your foam core board large enough to allow for the frame to overlap the board. The amount will depend on the frame you choose. Most frames will overlap the board by at least 1/2 inch. This is an excellent way to frame a single piece as well. Because you don't use any glue, you will always have the option to take it apart and do something else with your bead embroidery!
Original Christmas glass bauble decoration can be easy made using SuperDuo or Twin beads and Czech round seed beads . You can use...
The jellyfish tassel has a special hollow, self supporting structure. The body and the tentacles are beaded, the oral arms are crocheted, so basic crochet knowledge required to create the jellyfish tassel. No special beads project. I used Japanese Toho seed beads in two sizes (11/0 and 15/0) and Czech Koralex (Starman) fire-polished beads (size 4 mm). As the products of different manufacturers may be of different sizes, I can only guarantee success with the beads I have named. ❊ ❊ ❊ New! ❊ ❊ ❊ I created the lantern version of the Jellyfish tassel, so you can bead a fabulous, completely maintenance-free aquarium with magical luminous jellyfishes! You can find the tutorial of the luminous jellyfishes (the jellyfish lanterns) in the tutorial as well. ❊ ❊ ❊ The listing is for a PDF file containing instructions for making the Jellyfish tassel pendant and the Jellyfish lantern, not the finished piece (the physical item, the beaded jewellery) itself. The beading pattern contains the Jellyfish pendant and Jellyfish lantern pattern step by step with illustrations, phase photos and explanations of each step, material list, color list, and finished pictures of the pendant and lantern. ❊ ❊ ❊ Measurements: ❊ diameter: 35 mm (1 3/8 inches) ❊ height: 90 mm (3 1/2 inches) ❊ ❊ ❊ PRINTER-FRIENDLY VERSION INCLUDED! ❊ ❊ ❊ Beadwork pattern for advanced bead weavers. Difficulty: Difficult Language: English ❊ 37 pages ❊ printer-friendly excerpt: 3 pages ❊ 43 steps ❊ 42 illustrations ❊ 144 phase photos ❊ cutout marker labels ❊ ❊ ❊ MATERIALS YOU NEED: ❊ Japanese Toho seed beads size 15/0 ❊ Japanese Toho seed beads size 11/0 in 3 colours ❊ Czech Koralex (Starman) firepolished beads size 4 mm ❊ Beading thread (e.g. Toho One-G) ❊ Clear fishing line size 0.16 mm ❊ Beading needle (e.g. Pony Size 10) ❊ Crochet hook size 0.75 mm (or 1 mm) ❊ Flat bead cap, diameter 9 mm - 1 pc ❊ Flat bead cap, diameter 12 mm - 1 pc ❊ Wire - 5 cm piece For the light string with 12 Jellyfish lanterns: ❊ LEDFYR LED light chain with 12 lights. (You can buy it in IKEA) ❊ Clear bead size 4 mm – 1 pc ❊ Adapters for the lanterns (which make the attaching to the light string very easy) – 12 pcs You can find the adapters in my shop here: https://diasjewelryshop.etsy.com/listing/1262737336 As the products of different manufacturers may be of different sizes, I can only guarantee success with the beads I have named. ❊ ❊ ❊ ❊ ❊ This PDF document contains the pattern and tutorial (the plans and technical drawings) of the design created by Diána Balogh. The design is a three dimensional work of fine art. The design, and all the content of this document are the intellectual property of Diána Balogh, and are therefore under copyright protection. The Flat Chenille pattern you know as “Flat Chenille Stitch®” is the intellectual property of Diána Balogh, and is registered by the United States Copyright Office. The Flat Chenille Stitch® is a registered TradeMark of Diána Balogh. ❊ ❊ ❊ ❊ ❊ My Etsy shop: https://diasjewelryshop.etsy.com ❊ ❊ ❊ ❊ ❊ Purchase or download of this tutorial grants the purchaser license to personally make and sell beadwork made using this tutorial WITH THE FOLLOWING CONDITIONS: Give appropriate credits when selling, or posting online the product made using this tutorial. When posting your work online, or when you sell it, make sure to give me credit. Something like “Designed by Diána Balogh” or “Design: beading-tutorial.com” will suffice. You may only post photos from the completed product. The purchase or download of this pattern does not give you permission to copy, distribute, lend and teach this pattern as well as post phase photos about the process. Mass production is not permitted under this license. ❊ ❊ ❊ ❊ ❊ If you have any questions, please contact me.
Happy Weaving! Click here to buy your Tiny Little Loom
"Find the Crystal Art BP-188C Beadwork kit for creating brooch Red apple at Michaels. com. Charivna Mit is a leading brand of high quality stitchery, craft kits and offers a complete range of kits in different needlework techniques. Create this lovely picture with Charivna Mit cross stitch kit. It includes easy to follow canvas. The Kit contents: instruction chart, color pattern, Preciosa beads - 3 colors, Crystal Art beads - 7 colors (7 sizes), felt - 1 color, wire - 1 color, fastener and a needle. 5.5x7cm Made in Ukraine Imported | Crystal Art Beadwork Kit For Creating Brooch Red Apple By Charivna Mit | 2.17\" x 2.76\" | Michaels®"
Parade Project and Sample by Lauren Hartman This wonderful tutorial was created by Lauren Hartman for beadshop in October 2016 and continues to be a constant source of help and inspiration. These how-to instructions and step-by-step images were created by Lauren herself. Pictured above is Parade, a wonderful wrap bracelet which now has a kit available, and is one of a number of Herringbone Ladder Projects from beadshop.com. In her own words, here are Lauren's instructions: Set your project up as you would with any laddering project. If you are making a triple wrap and are using a transition bead between the change in bead types, go ahead and string those on your leather. If you're planning on stringing a charm onto the leather, this is the time to add it as well. Just keep them on the leather towards the bottom of your design tray as you work. TIP: Before threading your needle, condition your thread (if needed) and run your fingers down the length several times to relax the natural curling tendency it has made while on the spool. I begin by tying a larks head knot with the thread on the leather. Figure 1 When working with the herringbone stitch, I've found it's best to add an "anchor" bead first. It will help keep the beads from migrating down the leather as you are working on expanding the bracelet width at the beginning. In the men's example, I used a size 6 seed bead. In the women's example, I used a size 8 seed bead. After threading through the bead in both directions, I add a dab of GS hypo-cement to both the knot and the back side of the leather and push it up as close as I can to the knot holding the button. I let it dry for 5-10 minutes to make sure it is set. Figure 2 TIP: As you're waiting for it to dry, this is a good time to sort through your Superduos and make sure all the holes are clear. Unique to Superduos is the fact that sometimes one (or both) holes are closed due to the manner in which the coating on the bead is applied. There's nothing worse than working on a row and finding out that the second hole in the Superduo bead above isn't clear and you have to rip out a row to fix it. Get those babies out of there! After it is dry, I go through that seed bead in both directions a second time to make sure it's going to stay put. Before you begin the herringbone, I want to assure you that the trickiest part of the project is working the first 3-4 rows. After that, it is more straightforward, and tapering down at the other end is MUCH easier than increasing the width of the bracelet at the beginning. Add two Superduos to your thread, and loop around the leather (back to front) and go back through the 2 Superduos. Push as close to the anchor bead as you can. Figure 3 Wrap the thread around the leather (from front to back), go through the second hole in the first Superduo in row one, add 2 more Superduos to your thread, and then go through the second hole in the second Superduo in row one. Figure 4 Wrap the thread around the leather (back to front). Then go through the second hole in the second Superduo in row one and the first hole in the second Superduo in row 2. You will be working your needle at a 45 degree downwards angle to the project. Pull your thread completely though those two Superduos. Figure 5 Change your needle direction to a 45 degree upwards angle, and then thread your needle through the first hole of the first Superduo in row 2 and the second hole of the first Superduo in row one. Figure 6 String your first seed bead onto your thread, and then go through the second hole of the first bead on row 2. Figure 7 Add 2 Superduos to your thread, and then go through the second hole of the second bead in row 2. Figure 8 Add a seed bead, wrap the thread around the leather from back to front, and go back through the seed bead and the second hole of the second bead in the second row and the first hole of the second bead in row 3 (needle is at a 45 degree downwards angle). Pull the thread completely through those 3 beads. Figure 9 Now thread your needle through the first hole of the first Superduo in row 3, the second hole of the Superduo in row 2, and the seed bead. Figure 10 At this point, your project may not be lining up perfectly. This is a good time to carefully tighten the thread through the first three rows, beginning at the top. By the time you finish the next row, your project should sort itself out and lay correctly for the rest of the project. NOTE: You may find that the rows where you're expanding (and decreasing at the end) the width of the bracelet may buckle a bit. I don't sweat it. I want that area tight so that it doesn't pull down from the button. Once the bracelet has been worn once or twice, the leather relaxes and it will lay flat. Now you're just repeating the row above for the length of the bracelet. Add a seed bead, wrap the thread around the leather from back to front, and go back through the seed bead and the second hole of the second bead in the second row and the first hole of the second bead in row 3 (needle is at a 45 degree downwards angle). Pull the thread completely through those 3 beads. Figure 11 Now thread your needle through the first hole of the first Superduo in row 3, the second hole of the Superduo in row 2, and the seed bead. TIP: When threading your needle back through your row, try not to pierce the thread that has already gone through the beads once. Also, you may find that your thread gets twisted up. If so, let your needle drop every few rows, and run your fingers over the thread to straighten it out. Continue until you have the length you need. Take into account when figuring your measurement that you'll need to factor in the length of two rows to taper the end, a knot, and the buttonhole. On your second to last row, do not add seed beads. Go through the second hole of the first Superduo in the row you just worked. Add ONE Superduo. Then go through the second hole of the second Superduo in the row above. Figure 12 Wrap the thread around the leather (back to front), and go back through the second hole of the second Superduo in the row above and the first hole of the Superduo you just added. Pull down at a 45 degree angle. Figure 13 Go back through the second hole of the first Superduo in the row above at a 45 degree upwards angle. Figure 14 Wrap the thread around the leather (front to back), and go through the second hole of the last Superduo. Go back through it. If your needle is small enough (you'll need a size 12), go back through this hole a second time and knot. Figure 15 If you're making a single wrap, you're done. Just knot off your leather, and finish as you would any other laddering project. VOILA! And don't be surprised if your needle resembles the one below when you're done :) Figure 16 If you're making a triple wrap, continue on. Slide your first transition bead up as closely as you can to the first section of your bracelet. Begin by tying a larks head knot with a new length of thread. Figure 17 Continue on with the second section of your bracelet. Figure 18 Slide your second transition bead up as closely as you can to the second segment of your bracelet, and continue with the last segment. If you have a charm, don't forget to slide it up and incorporate it into your bracelet a few beads shy of finishing (to keep it out of the way of the buttonhole). I've forgotten about it more times than I care to remember! Figure 19 Here are some final tips: The triple wrap example is with 1.5mm leather. 1mm leather would work equally well. The single wrap is 2mm leather. 2mm leather takes some coaxing to work with, so don't be afraid to show it who's boss. That said, you may want to start out with 1mm or 1.5mm leather. Practice first! Take a scrap piece of leather cord and a few minutes to practice the herringbone stitch (see our Herringbone Wrap Bracelet video for help) before jumping into your bracelet project. You'll thank yourself later :) Also, the Superduo Duets I used in the single wrap are awesome! You can play with pattern with them. I knew I wanted the dark navy in the middle, so I strung them with the navy sides all facing the center. You could reverse it with the ivory in the middle, or string them all randomly for a completely different look. How to Measure for the 3 Sections of Bracelet: If you're making a triple wrap and want each section of wrap to line up fairly closely, each section of different beads will not be the exact same length. For the first section, you'll need to take into account the button and first knot. The second section will be all beads, and the third section you'll need to take into account another knot and the buttonhole. If you're using a transition bead in between the sections, you need to add that measurement in as well. To give you a starting point, the triple wrap example is sized to my wrist measurement of a hair under 6". The first section of herringbone beads measures 6 5/8", not including the knot or transition bead. The second section of fire-polished Czech beads also measures 6 5/8". However, the third section of the tile CzechMates beads measures 6 3/8", not including the knot or transition bead. It is shorter to take into account how the button sits in the buttonhole. The transition beads I used are 1/4" wide. For many more examples of the herringbone bracelet (and variations of the project) you can follow me on Facebook: Lauren Hartman BEADS Enjoy! Lauren
Explore Marty52's 829 photos on Flickr!
Recreate a designer favorite with this DIY Chan Luu Bracelet tutorial. With pictures and easy step-by-step instructions, you'll be able to make one your own
So, for a couple weeks I’ve been thinking about linking up this nifty bracelet I’ve been seeing on Pinterest: However, I’ve never really used those particular jewelry elements, so…
When I saw that you could dye buttons on the Rit Website I knew I just had to try it. I've been going through my vintage stash of old buttons. I know that I have so many I just couldn't justify buying more. Especially when I found this lovely Kerr jar filled with lots of vintage beauties! Alas, big jars come with lots of buttons. I like the cool ones, so the rest, well, they just get sorted and moved and never used. I also tend to use bright colors so a whole bunch of other colors just sit. I also mainly use big buttons, so all the little buttons get left behind. Its sad. I think you get the gist. So I gathered all the buttons I don't intend on using and put the best in my Etsy shop. Take a look at them here. I did all the work for you. Rit Dye will color buttons made from nylon and plastic. Some of the buttons I tried did not dye well. I had a lot of transluscent buttons that were very shiny. Those did not take dye as a rule. Many of the vintage buttons that were semi opaque dyed in a wide range from very deep to very pale. My favorite white molded, vintage buttons came out very good or very bad. I threw a few new buttons in the mix. They as a rule took the dye beautifully. The colors were intense and bright. The top photo shows all of the buttons I dyed. You can see how glass and other plastic type buttons did not take any color on. Here is a good image showing the new buttons in the foreground. The older buttons are behind them. Here are the tools you will need. Buttons Plastic table cover Disposable gloves Measuring cup and spoons Eye Dropper or Paint Dropper Disposable cups, bowl, spoons Rit Dye Paper Towels Very Hot Water Gather all your tools together. I used 3 colors Lemon Yellow Fuchsia Teal They are close to primary colors. I was able to get a nice purple, orange and green by mixing these 3 colors. They are less than 4 dollars each. I recommend using the liquid dyes. First of all, you wont need to wear a dust mask. You never want to mix powered dyes without respiratory protection. The liquid dyes are concentrated and you don't need to use as much. Rit Dye has the formulas for dyeing over 500 colors! To get those recipes click Here. The Rit Dye website on how to dye buttons is here. They recommend that you add 1 teaspoon of dye to 1 cup of very hot water. I used a tea kettle to heat the water. I want the dye bath to stay hot for a longer time so I used Styrofoam cups. This dye is heat sensitive. Once it cools it is not as affective. To prolong a dye bath once it has cooled, add very hot or boiling water and add more dye. I used less than a cup of water. You only need as much water as it takes to submerge your buttons. I also used more than a teaspoon of liquid dye. I wanted the dye bath to have a better concentration of dye to water. Add your buttons to the dye bath. I recommend dropping them in with a spoon to avoid splashing dye onto your clothing or kitchen floor. Let the buttons sit in the dye for at least 2-5 minutes. Here is a picture of what they look like after 5 minutes. I left some of my batches in for 20 minutes. Once the solution cools, the dying process is ineffective, so why leave them in longer? The buttons were a bit darker with the longer dye time, but not by much. If you want your colors to be more intense, just add more dye. I decided to try dyeing some secondary colors, green, purple and orange. I just mixed some of the dye colors I had mixed on a disposable plate. Just be sure to cover your buttons completely. Then rinse and wash in soapy water. I used dish soap and did not see any of the dye come out. Then rinse again and let dry. I totally recommend putting the drain cover over your sink opening with holes small enough to stop any buttons from going into your garbage disposal. Believe me. Digging them out after you hear that awful clattering is something you or your hubby do not want to hear! Have fun with your new buttons! Here are some beautiful examples of fiber art using buttons. I found these on Pinterest. I've added the artist's website when available. I hope you find them very inspirational. Some of them have tutorials and one site has an Etsy shop which contains lots of amazing vintage buttons. I'll be ordering more soon. Doh! I'm supposed to be destashing! Well, buy some of my vintage buttons here so I can go buy more from someone else. click here to find Simply Stephy's blog. It will take you to her Etsy shop where you will find more goodies. Find a cute blog and a tutorial for these cute hair pins at A Home Makers Journal These are so cute and there is a link to a tutorial on Red Brolley's blog. I love this mixed media piece. I found this one at Life is A Beautiful Place to Be, which is also a lovely blog to visit. Here is a simple button bracelet and a tutorial. I found it at Hope Studios Here are a few more jewelry pieces from the following sites in order of the images shown: Sew Many Ways and An Era's Ambiance Jewelry Of course you can use buttons on your crazy quilt blocks, glue magnets or thumb tacks on the back to use on your fridge or bulletin board. You can use them as is or stack them for more texture and interest. You can sew them on your favorite blouse or sweater to update it and make it more "you". Give this craft a try. Its fun and easy! Here are a few of the buttons I have in my Etsy shop now. You can purchase the buttons I dyed for this tutorial in lots of 100 for only $7.00. You can purchase Lot 1, Lot 2 or Lot 3. A few more tips when using Rit to dye cloth- Add salt when dyeing cotton, rayon, linen and ramie. Add vinegar when dyeing nylon, silk and wool. To determine how much salt or vinegar to use, go to the Rit Dye website I hope you give this a try. It was a lot of fun and not too messy. Just don't forget to use your gloves! Check out my home page by clicking on my logo at the top of the page to see more tutorials and musings on my blog- fiberluscious!
Wire Wrapped tutorials - 20 PDF books. Wire wrapped jewelry step by step tutorials for beginners. Handmade Wire jewelry Valeriy Vorobev.
Beading Arts features tutorials, business advice, and artist profiles for artists working with beads.
Liesl is back for a surprise August Weekend Links post and with an update on how she’s recovering from her kidney donation surgery.
This is a list of steps for those of you who have put a backstrap loom together, are ready to weave your first project, and are asking “Where do I start?” I have put together here a des…
Crocheted beads are a beautiful for baby toys and jewelry. Learn how to crochet around beads with this easy step-by-step tutorial.
Mes réalisations en perles
How to make 3D embroidered flowers: a quick step-by-step in nine easy moves. Learn to embroider thistles or pineapples as well!
CGB Volume II Draft Cover (will change). Beadwork shown by Gabriella van Diepen and Laurel Kubby
Do you want 3D beads animals? 🐈 Book, how to make beaded cat. You can use cat as a desk-toy or cute keychain. You can change colors. If you want pattern as your owner cat contact me I will help. If you need help with custom cat contact me. This animal tutorials was made to purple cat. ✅ Approximate dimensions: W 1 1/2 inch (≈4 cm) H 4 1/4 inch (≈10.5 cm) ✅ Skill level: Intermediate beaders. ✅ Technique: Right Angle Weave Beading Technique. ✅ Materials you need (all ecofriendly): czech beads, fishing line, wool. IMPORTANT! This is tutorial with diagrams, not photo by photo! This tutorial contained 7 pages, easy-to-follow directions with color diagrams and advices in English. *** You need to have Adobe Reader to open this file. Please ensured your software and operating system are up-to-date. *** This is a digital tutorial only, not actual beadwork. This is a PDF format; the file will be available once payment is confirmed. It's non-returnable and non-refundable. Please feel free to contact me if you have any questions. Happy beading cat keychains! 🐈
Level: Intermediate. Technique: beading ENGLISH and ITALIAN language Material requirements: 11o seed beads, 4mm and 6mm Swarovski bicones , 53200 4mm chaton monteè , clasp Easy to read and understand pattern with full color step by step photos and written instructions. After notification of sale and payment the PDF will be available for download I am a professional Italian beader. If you wish , follow my blog http://happylandblog.blogspot.it/ My website www.happyland.it and my FB page https://www.facebook.com/#!/happyland.it
