Learn to draft a basic bodice block pattern based on your body measurements. Enter them in the calculator and get computed results for all tutorial steps and fabric consumption.
Learn how to draft fitted bodice patterns with princess seams. Examples both with and without cups. Also a section about inserting boning.
Hi! Maybe you’re here because you want to make your own dress and are looking for other people’s stories, or maybe you’re here because I shoved the link to my blog in your face and you’re vaguely i…
How to Make a Bodice Pattern - Draft a sloper pattern based on your own measurements to help you fit patterns to yourself.
To re-cap, here is the bodice pattern I was using from Janet Arnold’s Patterns of Fashion: I did make and fit a muslin first but am not going to bother with that here, let’s get right t…
Sewing Pattern Make Historical Corsets for Women Uncut and Factory Folded This listing is for one sewing pattern to make all of the items listed below. Directions and pattern pieces are included. Please note that anything else shown as well as any fabric or supplies needed are not included. Complete your historical look with any of these corsets! Sew a corset that is lined and has eyelets and ribbon or cording. Make with or without peplum or front flounce accent. Straps can be classic or tied and eyelets and lacing can be in single or triple rows. Pattern Makes: • classic corset • peplum corset • triple laced corset • tied corset Sizes Included: • Women 6 to 12 • Women 14 to 20 Butterick 4669
This is a lightweight 3-panel (plus gusset cups and shoulder straps) per side (or 5 in total if cutting the centre front as one piece) early nineteenth century Regency stays/bodice PDF pattern in sizes under-bust 26-40''/68-101cm approx. cup sizes A-E - 11 sizes. Note that large bust sizes will not get sufficient support from this design and gussets have been sized to a maximum of an E cup which is 6'' larger than the stated under-bust. The key measurement to take when referring to the size chart is your under-bust - ensure a horizontal tape is snug at the point where your bra band comfortably sits. Although referred to as stays the design makes an excellent alternative to a bra - instead of ties at the strap, why not use a covered piece of elastic for comfort at the shoulder? The design is lightly boned at the CF and CB and has a corded panel at the mid section although this can be omitted or substituted for synthetic whalebone (or light steel spirals). As was fashionable during this era, the silhouette is of a push-up bust effect -if you do not like this 'shelf-effect' this pattern isn't for you! The corset length measures 12-14.5cm at the centre front and 15cm at the back (depending on size). This pattern also features in my pattern collection '200 years of corset design reimagined' - a cost-effective way of procuring lots of different inspiring designs from 1715-1915, and my Regency Collection - a value for money collection of three designs inspired by this era. This design is a derivative of the Transitional stays pattern (1790's) that was developed based on the V&A's extant example. The difference is that there is no skirt (tabs), it is shorter and there are bust gussets rather that a cup drawn in to size. There is also an expandable front modesty panel that the transitional stays does not have. It is geared more towards the Regency 'proper' period of 1811-20 when stays were at their shortest. Note – there is no lacing gap factored into this design. If you would prefer your stays to have a smaller lacing gap, make one or two sizes larger. Seam allowances are not included on this pattern. As with all corset patterns, this pattern is not a beginners level sewing project. ALSO INCLUDES A 28 PAGE MANUAL OF GENERAL CORSET CONSTRUCTION & FITTING NOTES (see video)! If you are interested in the Regency fashion era please also see the transitional stays pattern: https://www.etsy.com/uk/CorsetsbyCaroline/listing/893174932/transitional-regency-stays-pattern-c1795?utm_source=Copy&utm_medium=ListingManager&utm_campaign=Share&utm_term=so.lmsm&share_time=1650725481645 This pattern is drafted in AutoCAD and available as an instant PDF download - you will need to print out on size letter (A) or A4 paper, making sure 'actual size' and 'centre the print' is ticked in your print dialogue box. A large format (A1) size print is also included. Note that if you use Adobe reader as your PDF Previewer you will be able to isolate layers and print only the sizes/lines required. Please take a look at my website where I have lots of information about corset making. Please remember that this pattern can't be used for commercial profit (such as a line of ready to wear corsets) - use to your hearts content, but only for yourself and clients!
Manipulating Darts - Bodice Front Manipulating Darts - Bodice Front Preliminary Reading: Manipulating Darts The reason that you would want to move darts in the Bodice Front is to create a different style or design. Of course you don't always want the bodice of your dress to look exactly like your Bodice Block; i.e. if
This is the first in a series of Pattern Hacks for my new pattern - Miss Ruby Tuesday Dress - you'll learn how to adapt your bodice to a Cross Over bodice. This feature is particularly good if you are breast feeding. But it's also a lovely feature to bring attention to the bodice area - if you have big boobs or small, it doesn't matter. It's a beautiful feminine feature to add to your dress pattern. The VERY first thing you need to do is to make sure you have done a Toile (mock up) of the MRT (Miss Ruby Tuesday) pattern to see that it fits perfectly on you. This step is important because if your base pattern isn't a good fit then the pattern hack won't be either. A good place to start to get ideas for a particular style you'd like to create is to GOOGLE images. For this particular lesson I googled - Cross Over Dresses - and I came up with this: It amazing what you can find on Google. Now for this lesson I've chosen to start simple and the 2 Cross Over bodice hacks you'll be creating are: 1. Basic Cross Over Bodice....there are no tucks and the right and left side bodices pieces are the same. 2. Cross Over Bodice With Side Tucks.......this is a bit more feminine and has a softer look. You can see that the right front pattern piece has the side tucks but the left doesn't, so you'll need to do 2 patterns. But before we get started I thought I'd show you some of the many different cross over styles you can do. They can all be done on the Miss Ruby Tuesday Dress pattern too! Ok, now that I've got you excited with the possibilities for the Cross Over bodices we'll get started. What You'll Need Front Bodice Miss Ruby Tuesday Pattern Extra paper to make your pattern alterations on Tracing Wheel Pencil Scissors Tape Measure Ruler French Curve (optional) 1. Basic Cross Over Bodice Hack Start with your front bodice pattern placed on another piece of paper that's folded in half. The pattern needs to be big enough to accommodate the front bodice pattern. We are going to be making a full front pattern as the shape of the Cross Over starts on one half of the bodice and extends to the other half of the bodice. The Cross Over pattern starts off as being a V neck shape on half the pattern and then extended down to the other half of the pattern to the side seam. You'll notice that the bodice pattern already has a V neck option. You can use that as your starting point if it's the right depth for you. First you need to measure down from the hollow in your neck to the point where you'd like your Cross Over to meet at the CF (Centre Front). If the V point on the pattern is where you want your Cross Over to meet - great. If not then mark in your new point and draw a line up to the shoulder/neck point.......similar to the V that's already there. Trace off the pattern with a tracing wheel and fold out. You are then left with a complete front bodice with a V neckline. Measure 10cm/4" from the waist/side seam point up the side seam and mark. Draw a slight curved line up to the V point at the CF. You line will probably look something like the image above. You'll then need to redraw the V neckline so that the line then continues on smoothly down to the side seam. Your front bodice will now look like the image above. Fold your pattern in half again and, with your tracing wheel, trace your new neckline to the other side of the pattern. Your pattern will now be looking like the image above. Now trace out your new front cross over bodice. Please don't cut the original pattern up as you need this pattern to refer back to. So take the time and always trace out new alterations to the pattern. Mark on your pattern - CF line, what it is, how many to cut and what size. Also, mark in the CF notch at the waist line. As this first style has the same right and left front pattern you will be cutting one pair. 2. Cross Over Bodice With Side Seam Tucks You'll be drawing 3 lines across your bodice. The bottom line starts at 2.5cm/1" above the waist on the right hand side side seam and goes over to the other side seam - about 1/3 of the way up the side seam. Draw in the line. The second line measure up 2.5cm/1" on the right hand side seam and then make a mark on the left hand side seam a1/3 of the way up. The third line starts 2.5cm/1" up from the last line on right hand side seam. Make a mark at the corner of the side seam and armhole seam then rule the third line in. Now that you've got your 3 line ruled in it's time to do a patternmaking method called - Slash and Spread. Place your pattern on another piece of paper. Cut into the bottom line - leaving the left side seam still connected. Tape the bottom part of the pattern to secure it in place. Then spread the top part of the pattern pattern up 2.5cm/1". Now repeat this process with the middle line. Tape in place to keep it secure. Then finally do this again with the top line. When you cut the line make sure the junction of the side seam and armhole are still connected. Tape all the pattern to the paper underneath. The tucks will be folding up when you make your Cross Over bodice. So fold the tucks up one at a time and, with your tracing wheel, draw over the side seam to create the tuck. Do this with the middle tuck then the top tuck. Once you've done that and marked in the tuck notches your pattern will look something like the image above. Make sure you have still got your CF & Straight Grain line and also the information of the pattern. You'll only be cutting one of this pattern so mark on this pattern 'Right Side Up' as that is how it's to be cut out on your fabric. You will now have your right hand side pattern piece with the tucks and the left hand side pattern piece without the tucks - which will be placed under the right hand side pattern piece. Lastly, you'll need to make your neck band. Measure the complete neckline divide by .85. This measurement will be your neckband length and the width will be 4cm/1 1/2". That's it. You've done your first pattern hack on the Miss Ruby Tuesday Dress pattern. Enjoy making your Cross Over Dress and I would love to see pics in the facebook group. If you like what you see but don't have the pattern - you can find Miss Ruby Tuesday Dress pattern HERE. If you have any questions or hack suggestions please put them in the comments below or email me at [email protected]. Happy Sewing! Ann Martin is the owner/designer of 1 Puddle Lane - Pattern Studio. With over 30 years experience in the Fashion Industry she brings a wealth of knowledge on everything from Patternmaking and Sewing to Design. Ann currently lives in Australia and is always working on new pattern designs to create. 1puddlelane.com.au
I love the bodice of this but I don't quite understand how it's pieced together? Sorry, kinda still new with
Okay, I vowed to keep the muslins and fitting stuff to a minimum but I feel I really want to touch on this. It seems a lot of ladies in the Facebook Group are new-ish dressmakers, which I love! And since there are some things you can do to make muslin-making easier, here's a look into my process. The most important things I do are to always put a zipper into my muslins, and to turn in the seam allowances at the neckline and waistline so I can see where the actual seamlines fall. Note: you can do all of the stitching in the following steps with a long basting stitch (4-5mm). This is faster to sew and easier to remove if necessary. Size note: I cut a size 12 based on the finished measurements on the pattern tissue. The size chart would have put me in at least a size 14, which would have been too big. This is why using the finished garment measurements are so important! (I'm fitting mine from scratch, to go through the process with you.) First, I cut the three bodice pieces (front, side front, and back) in the muslin. Those are the only pieces you need, no straps or interfacing. I only needed a half yard of muslin to make the bodice! Second, sew the princess seams as you would normally. I always staystitch and then clip the bodice center front between the notches. This makes it easier to pin the side front to the center front along the curved princess seams. Stitch the princess seams. Finger-press the seams up. I don't worry about pressing them at this point. Next, sew the back darts from the edge of the fabric to the tip. This is how I pin my darts for sewing: Sew the bodice front to the bodice back at the side seams. Next, stay stitch around the neckline and the waistline at 5/8". Clip into the seam allowances up to the stay stitching around any curved areas. Press the seam allowances in along your stay stitching. Baste up the center back seam and press open. Using the same length zipper that you would use for your dress (14") place the zipper face down and scotch tape it in place. Yep, we're going fast and easy here. Just make sure your zipper teeth are exactly centered over the seam. On the right side, use a zipper foot to stitch about 1/4" to either side of the seam. Straight stitching doesn't get extra points here. You'll have excess zipper hanging below the waistline seam. Open up the basted center back seam and remove any tape that's in the way of you opening up the zipper. (Tip: you can rip out the zipper and use it again for your next muslin!) Pin 3/8" ribbon in place of the straps. A 14" length of ribbon was more than enough for each strap. Zip yourself into your muslin! You should always wear the undergarments that you plan to wear while wearing the dress. You'll have a fancy zipper tail. If you're overwhelmed looking at your bodice, check out the Fitting Order Sheet provided by Palmer/Pletsch. You can see mine is low around the armholes, has tightness throughout the bust, excess around the armhole princess seam, and is slightly loose throughout the waist. I pinched out some excess at the side seams and the princess seam at the armhole. I also made a very small FBA (1/2" per side) following the Palmer/Pletsch directions I posted earlier this week. I also raised the armhole 3/4" at the underarm to conceal my favorite bra. All of these changes resulted in a much better fitting bodice! Once you've made your muslin, please post to the Facebook Group if you have questions about what to change. Next up: cutting and sewing!
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Learn how to draft a Bamboo Shoot bodice from "Pattern Magic", by Tomoko Nagamichi. This tutorial uses the Inari Tee sewing pattern by Named Clothing.
Lace-up bodice tops, corsets, stays - whatever you call them, they're a trend that's here to stay for another season. These easy corset tops are absolutely
Learn how to do an FBA the stress-free way. Cashmerette patterns are designed for curves in cup sizes C-H.
Hi everyone! A while ago an anonymous reader commented on my post about the comic strip curtain dress , asking if I could make a tutorial o...
Learn how to make triangle pattern weights in this super easy tutorial. All you need are fabric scraps and dried rice! Clear steps with pictures.
A couple of days ago, I clicked through to a tutorial about all-in-one facings on Crafterhours. Although I knew how I line a bodice, I'm always interested in how other people do things. And it turns out we do it differently! After a very pleasant exchange of emails and ideas, I was encouraged to share my way of doing it so here we go... By fully lining a bodice, not only is it a neater finish and a way of hiding your seams but it's possible to encorporate it a fully reversible dress. Personally, I find it quicker than facings or bindings. This method of works if your back piece has a centre seam that makes it two pieces (so you can put in a zipper or a slit or a button placket). If you have a single front and back piece, this is not the way for you... You will have a front bodice and two back bodice pieces, and identical pieces cut out of your lining. Sew the shoulder seams like so: Repeat for lining pieces. Right sides facing, place the shell bodice on top of the lining bodice, match up all the edges and pin in place. Sew them together along the neck curve and armhole curve. In this picture, I am making a slit with a button so I've also sewn partially down the centre back seam. Don't do this if you're not making a slit! Clip into the seam allowances around the neck and arm curves so they can be pressed flatter. Push each side of the bodice right side out through the front bottom hole. Manipulate with your fingers so all seams lie flat and corners are sharp. Press into position with the iron. Bring one of your back pieces down onto the front piece, matching up the four raw edges from the armpit down to where the bodice ends. It should be a sandwich of shell, lining, lining, shell. Right sides facing, pinch the two bottom corners of lining together, leaving the two shell pieces hanging loose (I've flipped a shell piece up so you can see better). Pull the shell corners up (rigth sides facing) and pin along both raw edges, up and over the seam line where the fabric changes (pic on right below). Right sides facing, you have now pinned together lining to lining, shell to shell. Stitch along this edge. While you are stitching, pull and manipulate the fabric so it is a straight line. Clip into seam allowance where the two fabrics meet, and then flip it open again and your side seam is created. Press in place. Repeat this process for the other side seams of the bodice, and you will have this: If you're doing a slit and button closure (as I am in these pictures), repeat the same process as you did to the side seams to the centre back seam.You're done! Now you have a nice and neat fully lined bodice. Pin It Tweet
Digital (pdf) knittingpattern of the Fabel Knitwear Maud Blouse. The pdf includes the Norwegian and English version of the pattern. Maud is a romantic blouse inspired by the Edwardian bodices and gowns favored by Queen Maud of Norway. It has a high twisted rib neckline that closes at the back with buttons, and a simple and elegant lace pattern at the bust and cuffs. It is worked top down with tailored shoulder-width, in two strands Mohair Silk. INFO: Needles: 3 mm & 3.5 mm Yarn: Fabel Knitwear Mohair Silk The blouse is knit in 2 strand of Mohair silk held together. Size: (XS) S (M) L (XL) 2XL (3XL) 4XL Bust, aprox: (80) 90 (100) 108 (118) 127 (132) 142 cm Note that this design has no ease. The measurements are not for the finished garment but the size it will fit. Quantity: (150) 150 (175) (175) 200 (200 (225) 250 g Gauge: 20 st(s) = 10 cm
Nieuw verbeterd patroon voor normale en grote maten vanaf april 2024. - 21 totale maten (9 standaard en 12 plus maten) - 5 verschillende gelaagde PDF-bestandsformaten (A0, A1, A2, A4 en US Letter) - Schriftelijke instructies met illustraties - Video uitleg VIDEO UITLEG: https://youtu.be/weK4QjkAsFM Maak je capsulegarderobe met de hand en voeg dit klassieke, opvallende kledingstuk toe. Een prachtig romantisch ontwerp dat dynamisch is voor elk seizoen of evenement. De jurk heeft een charmante vierkante halslijn die je sleutelbeen prachtig omlijst. Het lijfje heeft twee buste-naden en een naadtoeslag van 2,5 cm voor een perfecte pasvorm. De verzamelde volle rok is flatterend voor elk lichaamstype, en om het drama nog meer te versterken, zijn er vier extra lagere panelen die samenkomen in trapsgewijze lagen, waardoor de jurk nog meer volume en volheid krijgt. Het pièce de résistance zit hem in de superlange bandjes die je sierlijk in strikken om je schouders knoopt. Of u nu een speciale gelegenheid bijwoont, een tuinfeestje bijwoont, of u gewoon mooi wilt voelen op een bepaalde dag, het Cozette-kledingnaaipatroon kan uw persoonlijke stijl weerspiegelen en u veel creatieve vrijheid geven. Ontworpen door Alli Marye. OPMERKING: de 3D-weergaven zijn bedoeld om de pasvorm van het patroon in realtime weer te geven en weerspiegelen niet het ontwerp van de strikband. MOEILIJKHEIDSGRAAD Gemiddelde tot ervaren naaisters PATROON GROOTTE METINGEN (Zie foto's voor maattabel) AANBEVOLEN STOF: Effen geweven katoen, linnen, gaas, challis, twill, zijde, fluweel, lichtgewicht denim, chiffon, taft, crêpe, Georgette, kant, lichtgewicht wol. Zou geweldig zijn voor effen kleuren, bloemen, plaids, strepen en ginghams. STOF VEREIST 60" stof - 5 3/4 yards* (wanneer het lijfje is gevoerd met dezelfde stof als de schaal) 48" stof - 9 yards* (wanneer het lijfje is gevoerd met dezelfde stof als de schaal) * Extra stof is vereist als deze niet voorgekrompen is, bijpassende ruitjes/strepen, of voor directionele prints of dutjestoffen. TIP VOOR HET SNIJDEN: Als u ook geld wilt besparen op de stoflengte, kunt u de bandjes afknippen (voeg 1/2 naadtoeslag toe aan elk uiteinde) en opnieuw op de stof plaatsen om uw lengte beter te benutten in plaats van het lijfje en de zoom af te knippen. bandjes als één stuk, maar dan zul je ze opnieuw aan het lijfje moeten bevestigen bij het maken van het kledingstuk. Je kunt de lengte van de jurk ook eenvoudig inkorten om geld te besparen op de stof. NOTIES Bijpassende draad-100yds. 18” onzichtbare ritssluiting, rand (optioneel) Binding (optioneel) Tussenvoering (optioneel) AFDRUKFORMATEN -Amerikaanse brief (8,5 x 11") -A4 (8,3 x 11,7") -A0 (33,1 x 46,8") -A1 (23,4 x 33,1 inch) -A2 (16,5 x 23,4 inch) BELANGRIJKE AANTEKENINGEN Alleen het lijfje is gevoerd, de rok niet. Dus als je een transparante stof gebruikt, wil je misschien een roklaag of een slip eronder toevoegen. De hoeveelheid inzameling zorgt er echter voor dat het minder ondoorzichtig wordt. Geef alstublieft feedback en stuur foto's mee met uw beoordeling, dit helpt mij om de algehele pasvorm te verbeteren! Laat het me weten als je vragen of opmerkingen hebt over de bestanden voordat je een beoordeling achterlaat! Ik help je graag! VEEL GESTELDE VRAGEN https://www.allispatterns.com/faq
Learn how to make your own corset with this comprehensive guide that provides step-by-step instructions and free corset pattern.
Learn how to sew princess seams and how to draft them from a standard bodice sloper. Princess seams are vertical seams that replace darts.
A couple of days ago, I clicked through to a tutorial about all-in-one facings on Crafterhours. Although I knew how I line a bodice, I'm always interested in how other people do things. And it turns out we do it differently! After a very pleasant exchange of emails and ideas, I was encouraged to share my way of doing it so here we go... By fully lining a bodice, not only is it a neater finish and a way of hiding your seams but it's possible to encorporate it a fully reversible dress. Personally, I find it quicker than facings or bindings. This method of works if your back piece has a centre seam that makes it two pieces (so you can put in a zipper or a slit or a button placket). If you have a single front and back piece, this is not the way for you... You will have a front bodice and two back bodice pieces, and identical pieces cut out of your lining. Sew the shoulder seams like so: Repeat for lining pieces. Right sides facing, place the shell bodice on top of the lining bodice, match up all the edges and pin in place. Sew them together along the neck curve and armhole curve. In this picture, I am making a slit with a button so I've also sewn partially down the centre back seam. Don't do this if you're not making a slit! Clip into the seam allowances around the neck and arm curves so they can be pressed flatter. Push each side of the bodice right side out through the front bottom hole. Manipulate with your fingers so all seams lie flat and corners are sharp. Press into position with the iron. Bring one of your back pieces down onto the front piece, matching up the four raw edges from the armpit down to where the bodice ends. It should be a sandwich of shell, lining, lining, shell. Right sides facing, pinch the two bottom corners of lining together, leaving the two shell pieces hanging loose (I've flipped a shell piece up so you can see better). Pull the shell corners up (rigth sides facing) and pin along both raw edges, up and over the seam line where the fabric changes (pic on right below). Right sides facing, you have now pinned together lining to lining, shell to shell. Stitch along this edge. While you are stitching, pull and manipulate the fabric so it is a straight line. Clip into seam allowance where the two fabrics meet, and then flip it open again and your side seam is created. Press in place. Repeat this process for the other side seams of the bodice, and you will have this: If you're doing a slit and button closure (as I am in these pictures), repeat the same process as you did to the side seams to the centre back seam.You're done! Now you have a nice and neat fully lined bodice. Pin It Tweet
Beginner friendly tutorial on how to make a bustier top pattern and how to sew it with free PDF patterns and detailed video tutorials.
It’s time to redefine relaxation and home apparel with our new free sewing pattern: The Missoni Inspired Tamera Loungewear Set. With cozy season just around
If you are smaller than a B-cup, you may find yourself needing to do a small bust adjustment. Here is a tutorial to show you how!
Wieso Ärmel aussehen, wie sie aussehen, wie man Ärmel ändert und die Passform korrigiert - alles soll hier gezeigt werden. Wie kriege ich Falten aus dem Ärmel? Und wie entstehen Puffärmel?
We're getting near the end of my pile of Modes Royale pattern catalogues. I think I have enough to take us through the end of January. If you enjoy, or love as I do, vintage fashion, this has given you an opportunity to put together a very nice collection of ideas. At least I hope so. Today's catalogue showcases the patterns from the Modes Royale Spring/Summer 1952 collection. There are some really pretty pieces in this collection, like the piece on the front cover. Check out the way the pocket is part of the front vent in the skirt above. The jacket on the left above has a lovely collar and princess line detail. I'm not a huge fan of the above dress, but I think the caplet is a rather interesting idea. I'll see you back here next week for another visit with Modes Royale! Have a great week and Happy New Year! Rhonda
Tina Tarnoff artfully disentangled
A tutorial on how to transfer the location of your bust dart around your bodice to create any dart style you like without changing the fit.
Isabella reporting, Last fall I shared a post about the replica leather stays that were being made at Colonial Williamsburg . Fol...
Wieso Ärmel aussehen, wie sie aussehen, wie man Ärmel ändert und die Passform korrigiert - alles soll hier gezeigt werden. Wie kriege ich Falten aus dem Ärmel? Und wie entstehen Puffärmel?
A note from the designer. I couldn't resist designing a piece with the dreamy combo of our signature linen and waffle linen. We have fun sewing this one - the bodice is constructed out of ten different pattern pieces that conceal the darting and structure of the top. Delicate pleating of the waffle skirt peeks out from under the top layer of the bodice. I named this piece the "flow" dress because of the beautiful movement created by the airy waffle skirt, in contrast with the structured and detailed top. Xx, Jo Click here for more size info on this garment.