Aprende a tejer un bolso a crochet fácil con patrón ¡GRATIS! Instrucciones paso a paso para tejer en distintas medidas

I have been crocheting tons of pouches lately and I love lining them with a coordinating fabric and finishing them with a zipper. I'm not an expert at sewing by any means, but this method works for me. I use it every time and I am always happy with the results. I hope you enjoy this tutorial! In the pictures shown in this tutorial, I am lining the Lee Change Purse. But, this method will work for any pouch...just adjust the fabric and zipper sizes. Materials needed- for the fabric lining & zipper (if desired): • 5" zipper • Fabric- 2 pieces that are roughly 5" high by 6"wide •Needle & thread •Sewing machine (optional) •a few ball head straight pins Finished size: • Lee Change Purse- 4" high by 5" wide Making the Lining: 1. Cut out 2 pieces of fabric that are about 1/2-inch larger around than your pouch. 2. Lay one piece of the fabric, right side up, on your worktop. Place the zipper, right side up, on top of the fabric, centered. 3. Sew along the top edge of the zipper. Use a zipper foot if you can, it's so much easier than using a regular foot like I did. 4. Flip the fabric over and fold the zipper back, so that it is laying flat on the wrong side of the fabric. 5. Now sew along this side. You can sew along the same line you just made. The right side of the fabric will look like this now. 6. Lay your other piece of fabric right side up. Then, place the zippered piece on it so that the right side of the zipper is facing up and is lined up along the top edge of the right side-facing fabric piece. 7. Sew along the top edge of the zipper. 8. Again, flip open the fabric and sew along the zipper again. After you sew, the inside of the fabric will look like this. 9. Fold the fabric closed so that the zipper lays flat and secure it closed we a few pins along the zipper line. 10. Lay your pouch on top of the fabric. Line the top of the pouch up with the zipper. 11. Trace a line around the pouch using a pen or pencil. 12. Pin the fabric together. 13. Sew just inside (maybe about 1/8" inside) the line you just traced on the fabric. It does not have to be perfect so don't stress out about it. 14. Trim away the extra fabric. 15. Remove your pins and see how the lining fits inside of your pouch. If it seems too bulky/big, sew another line inside the one you sewed before and then trim away extra fabric again. If it fits just right, then proceed on to attach it to your pouch. 16. Use a few pins to hold the lining to the pouch while you sew it in. Use a needle and thread for this part. You are going to hide your stitches in between the crochet and the fabric (where the wrong sides touch). Work right along the zipper line. In the inside of the pouch, you will see the inside of your stitches along the zipper line. On the outside of the pouch you will not see any stitches. Go from the inside zipper line, out to under the row of slip stitches on the pouch. When coming back the other way, go under the row of slip stitches, making sure the thread will be hidden when you pull tight, to the zipper line. Continue this around. Make sure you pull each stitch tightly so that the lining is completely secured to the outer pouch. When you have gone all the way around, secure the thread with a few small knots that are hidden under the crochet portion. Cut the thread. Remove the pins. And enjoy! You did it :) Here is what it looks all finished :) Skein and Hook Copyright © 2014 The pattern and photographs contained in this document are the property of Skein and Hook. This pattern is available for personal use only. This pattern may be printed for your personal use only. You may not in any form copy, redistribute, sell, or represent this pattern or photos as your own. Please do not copy this post and claim it as your own. Please do not republish photos from this post and claim them as your own. You are welcomed to sell the items that you make from this pattern- please just credit me as the designer with a link to this post.

Crochet bottle wrap, adding little crochet sparkle when gifting your loved ones favourite tipple. Design by Lucy Djevdet.

A super easy crochet pocket wrap / shawl that works up in no time at all (so it's great for last minute gifts)! Find the free crochet pattern here.

Je partage !

Les éventails pliants, aussi connus sous le nom de "sensu" au japon ou encore "abanicos" en Espagne, sont aussi beaux que pratiques. Généralement confectionnés à...

Last step - fill with lavender

Crocheted thread edging can add a beautiful heirloom-quality to so many articles in a hope chest. This simple crocheted edging is the perfect embellishment for ordinary kitchen towels, pretty printed sheets or plain white pillowcases. It looks lovely on washcloths and tablecloths and even a baby’s burp cloth. It is so easy and fast. The kitchen towel in the picture was completed in about 30 minutes! The stitches used in thread crochet are the same as for yarn, but the thread and hook are both much smaller. If you have never worked with steel hooks and cotton thread, don’t be afraid to try! If it’s been a while since you’ve crocheted, you may want to practice first with yarn until you are comfortable making the basic stitches. Then try a “finger”weight yarn or a size 3 cotton thread with a small hook until you get used to using the tiny hook with thread. Try to be patient with the initial clumsiness. It won’t last long, I promise. To begin, if you are right handed, grab the thread with your left hand pinkie finger and loop it around the finger. Then loop the thread over your left hand index finger and grip the slip knot between the thumb and middle finger. As you crochet, you will work with the section of thread that is between your index finger and the hook. Make sure the thread will move smoothly through your fingers. This is called tension. In the beginning, finding a comfortable tension is a bit of a challenge. I like to wrap the thread twice around my pinkie, and sometimes I gain extra control of the thread, temporarily, by wrapping it twice around my left index finger, as well. The process is really much the same as using larger yarns and hooks, but the thread feels quite different in your hand. You’ll hold everything quite the same as you do a larger hook and yarn, but don’t be afraid to experiment with something different. It is quite common to pull the stitches too tightly as you first work with thread. Concentrate on working relaxed stitches and try to make them even. Don’t be discouraged with your first efforts. It takes some practice, but soon you’ll be putting lace on everything! To embellish the edge of an ordinary kitchen towel, you’ll need these materials: A towel, size 10 cotton crochet thread (you can also use Perle cotton, which is a kind of twisted embroidery thread), a size 7 or size 9 steel crochet hook, an embroiderer’s awl (to punch a hole), a washable marking pen, and a ruler. Use the washable marking pen to mark across the edge of the towel every 3/8-inch. (Use ½-inch markings with size 3 cotton thread.) Push the awl through the fabric at the edge of the towel to make a tiny hole. Pull the thread through the hole and make the first slip knot. Chain five. In the fourth chain from the hook, make a double crochet. Make another double crochet and then a third double crochet in the same space. 3 dc along with the initial ch 3 = 4 stitches in the cluster. Use the embroiderer’s awl to punch holes in a few of the marks. I usually do eight to ten holes ahead of my crochet. If I do too many at one time, they simply pull together before I can get to them and then I can’t find the hole. So, I’ve learned to do just a few at a time. In the next hole, make a double crochet. This forms the “post” of the stitch. Chain three. These chain stitches form the “rise” of the cluster. Working over the post (the previous double crochet), make a double crochet. Over the same post, make a second double crochet and then a third. (Ch 3, 3 dc altogether) In the next hole, make a double crochet. Again, chain three to form the rise. Continue across, using this pattern: (dc in the hole to form the post, ch 3, 3 dc over the dc “post”). Every few stitches, stop and look for any mistakes. When you get to the last stitch, make a hole near the edge. Instead of a double crochet, form a half-double crochet for the last post. Chain three as usual. Make 2 dc over the post. Then, make a final half-double crochet for the last stitch. Clip the thread about 4 inches from the hook. Make a yarn over and pull the thread through the loop to fasten it off. Using a half-double crochet in these last stitches will make the cluster lay just a bit tighter against the edge. Doesn’t it look pretty! Now, do the other end of the towel. You can do just one end. Sometimes, if I'm in a real hurry with a gift, I will do just one end of a towel, but I think it looks nicest to do both ends. Weave the end of the thread (both ends) into the stitches and clip. After weaving through a few of the stitches, I sometimes push the needle into the hem and pull the thread a little way into the hem before I clip it off. I sponge the towel to wash the markings away and “block” the crocheted edge with steam from the iron. Then I fold the towel and it’s finished. The following pics show one of my common mistakes. If I get distracted or have to stop and pick things up again, I sometimes mistakenly do a chain three after I finish a cluster. Then I proceed to make another post in the next hole and continue. You can see the gap in the stitches when I make this mistake. It is easy to just pull it out back to the mistake and then continue again. As I work with the thread, I find it easier to sort of “lay” the stitch over the pad of my finger as I pull the thread through. This helps me keep the stitches even. If you are having trouble with the stitches being too loose, it may help to move your fingers to pinch close to the hook as it slides through the thread to complete the stitch. One final tip. Because I do so much marking, I made a cardboard marking aid, with a row of marks at 3/8-inch and a row of ½-inch markings. I find this quicker than using a ruler. I hope these instructions are clear and that you find this edging as useful as I do. Please leave a comment if you have any questions. If you like the Zig-Zag edging, don't miss my other tutorials located under the crochet edgings label on the sidebar. This "Garden Fence" edging is one of my favorites!

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I'm glad to share with you this amazing bag crocheted by Anne, according to my "Boho Granny Square Bag 01" pattern. It was so exciting to follow her project on Ravelry. I really like her color selection and I'm very grateful for her beautiful pictures and kind feedback! With love, Bori

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Objectif : un quotidien Zéro Déchet ? Un des indispensables pour s'y mettre : le sac de courses pour dire non aux sacs jetables ! On vous propose un patron gratuit pour crocheter un sac de courses filet.

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Aquele jeans velho que já andou por todos os lugares e já esteve junto com as pessoas mais sensacionais que você ama. Mas chegou a hora dele se aposentar. Já está rasgado, um pedaços desfazendo, não tem conserto. Nao dá nem para doar. Jogar fora? NEM PENSAR! O seu jeans agora pode se transformar em lindas […]

This is a free crochet tutorial for a star stitch. It includes step-by-step photo instructions and it is great for beginners.

Crocheted thread edging can add a beautiful heirloom-quality to so many articles in a hope chest. This simple crocheted edging is the perfect embellishment for ordinary kitchen towels, pretty printed sheets or plain white pillowcases. It looks lovely on washcloths and tablecloths and even a baby’s burp cloth. It is so easy and fast. The kitchen towel in the picture was completed in about 30 minutes! The stitches used in thread crochet are the same as for yarn, but the thread and hook are both much smaller. If you have never worked with steel hooks and cotton thread, don’t be afraid to try! If it’s been a while since you’ve crocheted, you may want to practice first with yarn until you are comfortable making the basic stitches. Then try a “finger”weight yarn or a size 3 cotton thread with a small hook until you get used to using the tiny hook with thread. Try to be patient with the initial clumsiness. It won’t last long, I promise. To begin, if you are right handed, grab the thread with your left hand pinkie finger and loop it around the finger. Then loop the thread over your left hand index finger and grip the slip knot between the thumb and middle finger. As you crochet, you will work with the section of thread that is between your index finger and the hook. Make sure the thread will move smoothly through your fingers. This is called tension. In the beginning, finding a comfortable tension is a bit of a challenge. I like to wrap the thread twice around my pinkie, and sometimes I gain extra control of the thread, temporarily, by wrapping it twice around my left index finger, as well. The process is really much the same as using larger yarns and hooks, but the thread feels quite different in your hand. You’ll hold everything quite the same as you do a larger hook and yarn, but don’t be afraid to experiment with something different. It is quite common to pull the stitches too tightly as you first work with thread. Concentrate on working relaxed stitches and try to make them even. Don’t be discouraged with your first efforts. It takes some practice, but soon you’ll be putting lace on everything! To embellish the edge of an ordinary kitchen towel, you’ll need these materials: A towel, size 10 cotton crochet thread (you can also use Perle cotton, which is a kind of twisted embroidery thread), a size 7 or size 9 steel crochet hook, an embroiderer’s awl (to punch a hole), a washable marking pen, and a ruler. Use the washable marking pen to mark across the edge of the towel every 3/8-inch. (Use ½-inch markings with size 3 cotton thread.) Push the awl through the fabric at the edge of the towel to make a tiny hole. Pull the thread through the hole and make the first slip knot. Chain five. In the fourth chain from the hook, make a double crochet. Make another double crochet and then a third double crochet in the same space. 3 dc along with the initial ch 3 = 4 stitches in the cluster. Use the embroiderer’s awl to punch holes in a few of the marks. I usually do eight to ten holes ahead of my crochet. If I do too many at one time, they simply pull together before I can get to them and then I can’t find the hole. So, I’ve learned to do just a few at a time. In the next hole, make a double crochet. This forms the “post” of the stitch. Chain three. These chain stitches form the “rise” of the cluster. Working over the post (the previous double crochet), make a double crochet. Over the same post, make a second double crochet and then a third. (Ch 3, 3 dc altogether) In the next hole, make a double crochet. Again, chain three to form the rise. Continue across, using this pattern: (dc in the hole to form the post, ch 3, 3 dc over the dc “post”). Every few stitches, stop and look for any mistakes. When you get to the last stitch, make a hole near the edge. Instead of a double crochet, form a half-double crochet for the last post. Chain three as usual. Make 2 dc over the post. Then, make a final half-double crochet for the last stitch. Clip the thread about 4 inches from the hook. Make a yarn over and pull the thread through the loop to fasten it off. Using a half-double crochet in these last stitches will make the cluster lay just a bit tighter against the edge. Doesn’t it look pretty! Now, do the other end of the towel. You can do just one end. Sometimes, if I'm in a real hurry with a gift, I will do just one end of a towel, but I think it looks nicest to do both ends. Weave the end of the thread (both ends) into the stitches and clip. After weaving through a few of the stitches, I sometimes push the needle into the hem and pull the thread a little way into the hem before I clip it off. I sponge the towel to wash the markings away and “block” the crocheted edge with steam from the iron. Then I fold the towel and it’s finished. The following pics show one of my common mistakes. If I get distracted or have to stop and pick things up again, I sometimes mistakenly do a chain three after I finish a cluster. Then I proceed to make another post in the next hole and continue. You can see the gap in the stitches when I make this mistake. It is easy to just pull it out back to the mistake and then continue again. As I work with the thread, I find it easier to sort of “lay” the stitch over the pad of my finger as I pull the thread through. This helps me keep the stitches even. If you are having trouble with the stitches being too loose, it may help to move your fingers to pinch close to the hook as it slides through the thread to complete the stitch. One final tip. Because I do so much marking, I made a cardboard marking aid, with a row of marks at 3/8-inch and a row of ½-inch markings. I find this quicker than using a ruler. I hope these instructions are clear and that you find this edging as useful as I do. Please leave a comment if you have any questions. If you like the Zig-Zag edging, don't miss my other tutorials located under the crochet edgings label on the sidebar. This "Garden Fence" edging is one of my favorites!

Modelli gratis e in italiano per l'estate e non solo, realizza quel che più ti piace ai ferri o all'uncinetto con il filato Drops Bomull-Lin per un'estate unica

I have been crocheting tons of pouches lately and I love lining them with a coordinating fabric and finishing them with a zipper. I'm not a...

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I’ve recently made a couple of boho inspired handbags that are simply 2 circles stitched together with a strap added (and optional fringe). In this post I’ll explain how I made the two …

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