Description These are substantial mortise chisels. The blades are more than 1/2" thick at the heel of the bevel and are a consistent width from tip to shoulder for accurate registration in a mortise. The chisel sides are slightly relieved to reduce sidewall friction and allow for minor cut corrections. Each has a 25° primary bevel to make deep cuts easier, with a 35° secondary bevel to give them a durable cutting edge. To aid in levering out waste, the heel of the bevel is rounded to provide a smooth fulcrum. A2 or PM-V11 tool steel versions are available. The blade-to-handle connection is made with a tang and a socket-like ferrule. The tang has flats to prevent the handle from rotating. Turned from a solid blank, the ferrule seats directly onto the shoulder of the blade. The hard maple handle has been torrefied, a heating process that changes the structure of the wood at the cellular level, stabilizing it against swelling and shrinkage caused by humidity changes. The handle is contoured to fit the hand nicely, with shallow flats parallel to the blade sides to provide tactile cues for blade alignment and finger placement. The end is domed and has a stainless-steel hoop to resist chipping and deformation from mallet blows. Overall lengths range from 11 5/8" to 12 1/4"; blade lengths (including bolster) range from 5 5/8" to 6 1/4". Only final honing is required before use. Made in Canada.

In late January Narex, the reputable Czech hand tool manufacturer sent me a box that contained three chisels for review. The sturdy but old fashioned stapled together gray cardboard box held three…

Wood chisel with steel striking cap handle which can be used with a steel hammer. With a longer, soft grip handle for improved grip and control, forged high carbon steel reassurance of strength and durability and the pre-sharpened blade is ready for immediate use.

Ready to take the next step into chisel sharpening? Here’s everything you need to know.

A chisel is a tool with a characteristically shaped cutting edge of blade on its end, for carving or cutting a hard material such as wood, stone, or metal b ...

Tips for sharpening and using a chisel, one of the carpenter's basic tools.

Woodturning chisels and gouges are a bit confusing when you’re first starting in woodturning. Let’s clear up some confusion. To turn a wood bowl start…

How to Use a Wood Chisel: PopularMechanics.com For every type of builder, there are very few indispensable tools. For the woodworkers, the chisel is the simple, multifaceted tool you just can't live without. Here are some basic techniques on making the most of the chisel, …

The mastery is all in the basics. A chisel is a simply remarkable tool. Basically just a piece of steel with one sharpened end and a handle, it can perform the coarsest work to the most refined. You can use it to rough out shaped parts, fine-tune joints, pare plugs, and chop out mortises, among myriad other things. It’

Which is the best wood chisel set? Learn what to look for when buying a set of wood chisels, like a bench wood chisel set, mortise chisels, paring chisels, etc.

12Pcs Wood Carving Chisel Tool Set Wood Working Professional Gouges tool set (BD) Description: Wood Carving Chisel Tool Set is ideal for carpenters, wood turners, hobbyists, etc. Specifications: Type:Wood Carving Knife Color:As the picture shown Material:Wood Handle+Stainless Steel With A plastic box. Length:App 14cm Packing size:App 15*15*1.6cm (L*W*H) Features: 1.Professional carving knife chapter. 2.Applies generally less hard wood material. 3.Strong and durable tipped tools. 4.This is 12 pieces set of wood carving chisels. 5.These tools are great for doing detail work on the smaller wood lathes and hobby. 6.Assorted steel blades with pine wood handles. 7.These are perfect for beginners or even experienced wood carvers. 8.Ideal for carpenters, wood turners, hobbyists, etc. Note: Using hand tools can be dangerous, you’d better always take care, and keep away from children. The size of the manual measurement, there will be a small error, please understand! Package Includes: Wood Carving Knife/Set (With box.) +++++ SHIPPING +++++ SHIPPING UPGRADE (EMS Express Mail Service) USA to USA take time 2 to 3 days with tracking SHIPPING UPGRADE (EMS Express Mail Service) USA to Worldwide take time 2 to 15 days with tracking !!!! ITEM SHIP From CN warehouse !!!! (Air Parcel Register / Priority Direct Mail ) CN to Worldwide take time 7-20 days with tracking SHIPPING UPGRADE (EMS Express Mail Service) CN to Worldwide take time 2 to 15 days with tracking If you received item and there have any problem, please feel free to contact me.

Tips for sharpening and using a chisel, one of the carpenter's basic tools.

In this article, you’ll learn what is a chisel and How it is used in the workshop. with its Parts, Methods, Precautions and Types of Chisel.

Go from dull to razor-sharp in no time!

A chisel sharpening jig is often used to sharpening woodworking tools. Many of the tools used in woodworking have steel blades which are sharpened to a fine edge.

Ready to take the next step into chisel sharpening? Here’s everything you need to know.

The alternate title for this post should be: Goldilocks and the Three Chisel Handles, or perhaps even, Chisel Handle Mk. III. I anticipate that this will be my last post on London Pattern chisel handles. I never planned to write this much about them, but my earlier attempts at turning these were not to my

by Alan Lacer Years ago, an old professional spindle turner showed me a different way to sharpen a skew. When I tried it, I was sold. This modified grind is more versatile…

Still handy after all these years.

Ready to take the next step into chisel sharpening? Here’s everything you need to know.

Learn about wood carving chisels and gouges, what terms like sweep & ferrule mean.AND what to look for when buying chisels for your woodworking and carving.

Instant Tool Collection! Actually, there are 5 Stone worker's chisels in this funky old tool set. Chisel number 6 is a Woodworking chisel and number 3 is a boat-builder's caulking chisel. (This one also happens to be the most valuable chisel in the bunch.) These old tools have been loved pretty darn hard and will all need to be reground and sharpened if you plan to use them for stonework. The pictures will tell you more than I can, so please take a look. Of course you don't have to do anything at all if you plan to display them. This lot of seven funky tools make an awesome instant collection!

I hope you are enjoying my latest series on my new tool chest. The project was born this time last year during the FWW presentations at Colonial Williamsburg's "Working Wood in the 18th Century"

Description Precision made in our own machine shop, these chisels are milled from PM-V11 steel (Rc61-63), an innovative proprietary alloy. This metal’s micro-structure makes it extremely durable, so it can withstand the impact of heavy chopping cuts without chipping or deforming as readily as other tool steels, even at bevel angles as low as 20°. Highly wear resistant, the edge typically lasts at least twice as long in use as an A2 blade before it needs sharpening, yet it's as easy to sharpen as A2 steel using common abrasive media such as water stones. Our chisel blades taper from shoulder to tip for strength and rigidity, and have parallel sides and true bevel edges for clearance and minimal friction when working into an angled corner or a tight recess. To ensure that the face of each blade is both smooth and true, the chisels are lapped flat. The blade and handle are connected with a tang and a socket-like stainless-steel ferrule that seats directly onto the shoulder of the blade. Flats on the handle prevent the chisel from rolling. Each chisel is superbly balanced, with the center of gravity close to the tang/socket connection. The hard maple handle has been torrefied, a heating process that changes the structure of the wood at the cellular level, stabilizing it against swelling and shrinkage caused by humidity changes. Contoured to fit the hand nicely, the handle has a domed end that resists chipping from glancing mallet blows. Blades range from 3 5/8" to 5 1/8" long. The 3/8" and smaller chisels have 30° primary bevels; the others are 25°. All blades are usably sharp, but we recommend a final honing before use. Offered individually or as a set of five (1/4", 3/8", 1/2", 3/4" and 1") or a set of seven (all sizes). Made in Canada. Learn more about PM-V11.

Go from dull to razor-sharp in no time!

Crafts,Actvities and Worksheets for Preschool,Toddler and Kindergarten.Free printables and activity pages for free.Lots of worksheets and coloring pages..

Making a Set of Chasing Tools: Chasing is a wonderfully effective way to add a level of artistry and sophistication to any sheet metal piece. Experienced artisans can create truly stunning forms in a wide variety of metals from brass and copper to silver and gold. the biggest bar…

First, we need a dull chisel, like you can see above. That's me (Herrick Kimball) in the YouTube movie, My Whizbang Chisel Sharpening Jig, presenting a well-dulled, 1" wide, Stanley chisel. I purchased it for 75-cents at a yard sale. By the way, all the pictures on this page are screen shots from the movie. If you like this idea, make sure you watch the movie. It's important. The picture above shows how the chisel is clamped in the jig. With the assembly on a flat surface, the blade is touching down, while the front of the jig is raised up ever so slightly. By the way, this jig is designed to grind a 25° bevel on the chisel, and it will also sharpen block plane blades. In this next picture you can see the chisel being sharpened on an old belt sander, which is exactly what it is designed to do. In the picture above, you can grasp the remarkably simple but amazingly effective concept of Whizbang chisel sharpening. A sanding belt is cut to 1-1/2" wide and installed on the sander. I recommend a zirconia alumina sanding belt for this. Common aluminum oxide belts will also do the job, but they dull much more quickly than zirconia alumina. The jig-with-chisel is held flat on the platen of the sander while the belt runs underneath. There are wood skis on the underside of the jig. So, the jig straddles the belt. As noted in the picture, belt rotation and jig orientation is important. You want the belt running under the jig and into the chisel blade. This is safer than having the belt contact the point of the blade first. And speaking of safety... Your belt sander is not going to explode when you grind a metal chisel blade. But those hot sparks may certainly find purchase on a bit of sawdust residue and smolder there before eventually flaming up. It's nothing to panic about. Just be aware of the possibility, and follow the common sense safety precautions on the label. This next picture shows the desired result when grinding a chisel edge... Once you have a wire edge all the way across the edge of the blade, it is time to stop grinding and move on to honing... In the above picture I have replaced the zirconia alumina sanding belt with a worn out 180-grit aluminum oxide belt, and I am charging the belt with a bar of Veritas Green honing compound. The chisel remains as it was in the jig. Then hone the blade in the same manner that I ground the angle... The blade is honed until the wire edge is gone, or mostly gone, as you can see in the picture above. The precise angle is perfectly retained. Next, the blade is stropped... I strop the blade on cardboard. Any clean, flat piece of cardboard that is in reach will work. Even the outside of a cardboard box. Then, I test the blade for sharpness... The best way I know to test the sharpness of a chisel blade is to hold it at an angle on the nail of my thumb, as you can see above. A sharp blade will "bite" ever so slightly into the nail surface and not slide off. A very sharp blade will hold its bite and not slide off the nail even at a very low angle. You can achieve this kind of edge on a chisel in a couple of minutes, every single time. If the chisel is just a bit dull, and the edge is not damaged, you can renew it in a fast minute by simply honing and stropping. A sharp chisel is a joy to use, and so is a sharp block plane... Block plane blades up to 2-5/8" wide can be sharpened in the Whizbang jig just as easily as chisel blades. Is This Jig The Right Tool For You? Well, it might not be. If you are a fine woodworker with expensive, high-quality bench chisels (like these from Lie-Nielsen) I do not recommend this sharpening method. Not at all. However, if you work in the trades, and your chisels typically take a real beating, you are exactly the person who can benefit from this idea. The fact is, I developed this sharpening concept when I made my living as a carpenter and home remodeler. My chisels took a real beating. I needed a way to get a sharp working edge fast, right on the job site, without a lot of fuss and hassle. This jig, and the process I have just explained, will do that! Now, having said that, I want to also make it clear that common, inexpensive chisels, like the 75-cent Stanley shown above, can be just as practical for most fine woodworking projects as a $55 Lie-Nielsen chisel. Click Here for specifications, hardware parts kits, and already-made Whizbang chisel sharpening jigs.

"Anyone can make woodturning chisels by following these instructions. In doing so, you are not trying to approximate a standard factory-made chisel. Instead you are creating a 'hard tip' tool. In many ways, this is better than a factory chisel. The cutting edge is extremely hard and du

My Hillbilly Tansu project requires the chopping of several narrow and deep mortises. 6mm(W)x18mm(L)x24mm(D) to be exact. Clearing the waste from these mortises is difficult to say the least. Th…

Go from dull to razor-sharp in no time!

by Roger Holmes pgs. 84-88 From the February 2002 issue #126 Buy the issue now A few months ago I had to face the unpleasant truth about my chisels. Given to me years ago by my father…

Sharpening your wood chisel does not have to be a complicated process. Let me show you what sharp really means, while keeping this as simple as possible...