In Honor of Indigenous Culture and Native American Heritage Month, We proudly present The November 2018 Issue of Rare Magazine Luxury Sioux Chef Founder Chef Sean Sherman Reclaiming Indigenous Fashion Tuhura By Oceanco Indigenous World Winery Artist Margaret Jacobs Ancient Mayan Secrets Spa Experiences in Mexico Home Fall Favorites Clayton Gray Home Dream Escapes Sri Lanka Spectrum November 2018 Colors These Boots Are Made For... MOBS Design Lotus Flower Inspired Facial Sotheby's Diamonds Rare Affairs
THE GULLAH GEECHEE PEOPLE The Gullah Geechee people are descendants of Africans who were enslaved on the rice, indigo and Sea Island cotton plantations of the lower Atlantic coast. Many came from the rice-growing region of West Africa. The nature of their enslavement on isolated island and coastal plantations created a unique culture with deep
This text about the history of clothing is quite difficult and meant for advanced students. There are several discussion topics and a adjective exercise. If you want to revise clothes vocabulary, you can find worksheets here:https://en.islcollective.com/mypage/resources?Tags=fashion&searchworksheet=GO&type=Printables&id=5163 - ESL worksheets
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Hello All, Today I will talk about another variation of Welsh folk costume from Ynys Môn, an island and county off the north coast, called in English Anglesey, and in Latin Mona. Here is a map to locate it Ynys Môn has a long and significant history as a special place for the native Druids of Britain. For more information on the island and its history, see this article: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Isle_of_Anglesey The local folk costume has a few different variations, the Pais a Becon, which is the local name for the Pais a Betgwn, in a couple of different styles, and another costume called Gwn stwf a Het silc, which may be translated as 'Gown in Linsey-woolsey'. These are not restricted to Mon, but are also found on the mainland of North Wales, The image above is of a woman in Llanberis. I am going to focus on the cotton Becon, or Betgwn, which differs significantly from that of Ceredigion, or Cardiganshire, and only seems to have been worn in the North of Wales. Here are a couple of ladies from Mon wearing this type of costume. These are modern replicas of museum pieces. There are several obvious differences compared to the betgwn of Ceredigion. Firstly, they are much shorter, as indeed most were, Cardiganshire had among the longest betgwn in Wales. Secondly, they are made of cotton calico. These were made in several colors, but most commonly in some shade of yellow. Thirdly, they commonly have a large lay down collar, often round, but sometimes square. The sleeves vary in length and construction, as you can see in the above two images. Sometimes they are sewn of rectangular pieces sewn on to the body of the becon at right angles, this of course, requires an underarm gusset for ease of movement. The position of the shoulder seam is clearly seen in this old photograph. The becon overlaps in front where it is often shorter, because this part is normally covered by the apron. At other times the sleeve appears to be gathered, and set in. As you can see, the rounded collar often had a gathered frill or flounce, and the square collars did not. The becon was not always shorter in front. Here is an image of a woman who apparently went out without her apron. You will notice that the becon seems to have been gathered at the waist with a drawstring. A long sleeved becon or betgwn of linsey-woolsey was sometimes worn instead of, or over the cotton becon in this area. The sleeves were set in at right angles, and they were held closed by the apron, or pinned shut in front. These were longer than the cotton becons, and the tails were often pinned back to keep them out of the way when working. They sometimes had big square collars. Here is a painting of Peggy, who was mail carrier in Biwmares [Beaumarie] for many years. Her tails are pinned back and she is wearing long cotton sleeves under the outer betgwn. Here is a rear view of a museum piece. With the becon was worn the pais, usually translated as 'petticoat'. If a woman could afford one, first she put on one of cotton or linen. Often the petticoat was gathered into a fitted top piece. An underpetticoat of red flannel was often worn over this, as it was thought to protect against rheumatism. You can see one peeking out in this photo. The top petticoat was of various colors, usually restrained, and overwhelmingly seems to have been made with vertical stripes. Tucks were commonly sewn in. You can see that the top part was never intended to be seen, and is often made of a different material. Aprons are usually worn over the petticoats and becon, although there are some old paintings showing them worn under the becon. They usually have horizontal stripes. Although sometimes plaid or checked aprons are worn. Notice the gathered full short sleeve sewn perpendicular to the body of the becon, as shown by the 'drop sleeve' seam. And sometimes the apron was of plain white linen or cotton, as in this closeup of a painting of a Market scene in Holyhead. Sometimes aprons were made of 'silk linsey', in which silk was woven into the cloth. As in other parts of Wales, a cotton kerchief was tucked around the neck under the cotton becon, look closely at the various images above, particularly at the woman out and about in her red flannel underskirt and no apron. Pockets were worn under the apron. Another garment which was worn in North Wales is called Gwn o stwf Cartra, or Gown of Linsey-Woolsey. This was an actual gown sewn of locally woven cloth, usually of a mixture of linen and wool. The Gwn typically had long sleeves gathered into cuffs, was fitted at the waist, usually had a high neckline and opened in front. It was worn with the under petticoats of linen and/or red or other flannel. It was finished and accessorized with the same costume pieces as the pais a becon, including shoulder shawl and apron. If you look closely, you will see that most of the fullness of the skirt is in back. This is very typical over much of Europe. This was achieved by gathering in the back, [note the princess line seams on the back] and using rather flat box pleats in front. These Gwns were recorded in photos and other images from the North of Wales. Small woolen shoulder shawls are worn here, as in other parts of Wales. Here is an example which belonged to Mary Pritchard of Llanfairpwll. This is a postcard of a girl from Borthaethwy, on Mon. The large, expensive, imported Paisley Shawls based on Kashmiri designs, are as popular here as anywhere. Cotton caps which varied somewhat in shape, had goffered lace and ribbons on the sides, were worn here as in other parts of Wales and Northwest Europe. Various types of hats were worn, as you can see from the above images, straw hats, short hats, top hats, as well as the famous Welsh Beaver. Some of the shorter straw hats are much more practical for working. Clogs are worn for work by those who could afford it, but people in Wales, as in so many other places often went barefoot, sometimes with stockings which had no soles, but were held on by a loop over the big toe, as here above. The famous Welsh beaver hat is also worn here, as in other parts of Wales. The ones made in this area seem to be more cylindrical compared to those made elsewhere, which tended to be more conical in shape, tapering towards the top. Here we have a hat from Anglesey on the left, and one from Cardiganshire on the right. I will close with some more images of the costume of North Wales. As always, thank you for reading. I hope you have found this interesting. Folk costume is always rooted in very local tradition. It is a shame that so much information on local costume has not been recorded. Here is a website in Wales where you can buy beautifully woven Welsh fabric for costumes. They also make children's Welsh costumes, but not very authentic. http://www.calicokate.co.uk/welsh.html For those of you who like dolls, here is a website offering some very nicely made dolls in Welsh Costume which are available. http://www.walesdirectory.co.uk/Welsh_Dolls/elin.htm Here is a website which gathers together a great deal of information on many aspects of Welsh Culture and History. It is written in both English and Welsh, and is called Casglu'r Tlysau, or Gathering the Jewels. It is well worth browsing. http://education.gtj.org.uk/en/index Feel free to contact me with requests for research. I hope to eventually cover all of Europe and the Former Russian Empire/Soviet Union. I also gratefully accept tips on source materials which i may not have. I also accept commissions to research/design, sew, and/or embroider costumes or other items for groups or individuals. I also choreograph and teach folk dance. Roman K. [email protected] Source Material: The collection of the Ceredigion Museum. This is a link directly to their Museum: http://www.ceredigion.gov.uk/index.cfm?articleid=197 Here is a website showing items in their collection. http://education.gtj.org.uk/en/item10/27025 Ken Etheridge, 'Welsh Costume in the 18th & 19th cent.', Swansea, 1997 Huw Roberts, 'Pais a Becon, Gwn stwff a Het silc' [Traditional Welsh Costume in 19th cent Anglesey] Llansadwrn, Anglesey, 2006 F. G. Payne, 'Welsh Peasant Costume', Cardiff, 1964 Megan Ellis, 'Welsh Costume and Customs', National Library of Wales, Alberystwyth, 1951 Joan Perkins, 'The Welsh Doll', Swansea, 1990 Lilla M. Fox, 'Costumes and Customs of the British Isles', Boston, 1974 Adam Glickman, 'Stereotypes, a book of Postcards', San Francisco, 1991 Lois Blake, 'Welsh Folk Dance and Costume', Llangollen, N. Wales, 1954
Before Christianity arrived in the Philippines, the natives had their own polytheistic beliefs officiated by the Babaylan. But over time, they went from healers to hell-sent.
Lapland Traditional Costumes, Finland
We are delighted to have persuaded the lovely Laurie Benson out from her cozy drawing room as a guest writer so without further ado we will hand the post over to her to tell us about her findings. …
Att skriva om människor som levt för tusentals år sedan är inte helt enkelt. Att framställa dem visuellt kräver ännu mera. Ju längre bakåt i...
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San Francisco is an old, iron safe filled with gold, glory, disaster, and secrets. SFCentric History is a new column, by SF writer V. Alexandra de F. Szoenyi, that digs in the vaults of local history and shares the sensational people, places, and things that rocked San Francisco. Chinese culture is an
Cuenco Family, photo taken 1932 when Mariano Jesus Cuenco was Governor of Cebu My mother, Concepcion, is standing far left My cousin, Manny Gonzalez, found a cache of Cuenco family pictures including this family picture of Mariano Jesus and Filomena Cuenco. Manny's and my mother are in the picture. His mother Teresita is the youngest one, standing between Filomena and Mariano Jesus. Mine (Concepcion) is standing, far left. The other members of the family are: seated left, Consuelo, seated right, Carmen; standing beside my mother is Manuel, and to his left is Lourdes. The photo was taken in Cebu City in 1932. At the time, my grandfather was Governor of Cebu; my mother had been Cebu's Petit Carnival Queen in 1931, a coveted title. What people don't know is the story of vindication behind the glow of success. Mariano Jesus' father, my great-grandfather, Mariano Albao Cuenco 1, was a poet-teacher from Capiz, who had run for governor in Cebu but had lost. He seemed more of a writer who started the Imprenta Rosario and who had a literary pseudonym, Asuang (Cebuano for "witch" or "warlock"). Mariano Albao had also been the Court of Clerk in Judge Lyman Judy Carlock's court in Cebu, and had taught Carlock Visayan and Cebuano ways. Mariano Albao died at the age of 39 leaving behind his wife, Remedios Diosomito, with the press, a respected name, but not a lot of money. Fortunately, Remedios had a good head for business and invested in real estate, which kept her family together. The oldest son, Jose Maria, became an archbishop of the Catholic Church. The second son, Mariano Jesus, became governor, senator, and senate president at the height of his political career. The third, Miguel, became a congressman. They were all writers, including the daughter, Remedios. Perhaps because Mariano Albao had been a teacher, writer, and intellectual, his children were well-educated. Jose Maria 3, attended schools in Manila and the United States (as a pensionado). Mariano Jesus attended the Colegio San Carlos in Cebu and obtained his law degree from the Escuela Derecho in Manila. Miguel Cuenco attended Colegio de San Carlos, University of Santo Tomas, Georgetown University and Harvard in the United States. Remedios most likely attended convent schools. In becoming governor of Cebu, my grandfather, Mariano Jesus, fulfilled his father's wish. This was a posthumous vindication for Mariano Albao who lost his bid for governorship in the early 1900s. Mariano Jesus Cuenco 2 was 42 years old when he was elected Cebu's governor in 1931. He became the President of the League of Governors in the Philippines, and at the height of his political career became Senate President. He had started his political career in 1912 when he was elected a member of the Philippine Assembly (fifth district). The year 1912 was when my mother was born, and my grandfather reportedly considered her his good luck child. Except for Teresita, all of the people in the picture are gone. Many of their stories are also gone. I wish I had been more attentive when I was young so I could have asked them questions. But it's too late for that now, and I just have to piece together history with family stories to try and imagine how things might have been. L-r: Carmen, Concepcion, Filomena, Manuel, Teresita (child), Mariano Jesus, Lourdes (in back), and Consuelo ~~~~ Biographies from Resil Mojares' Cebuano Literature: A Survey and Bio-Bibliography with Finding List (San Carlos Publications 1975): 1 Mariano Albao Cuenco - 1861-1909 Poet, journalist, grammarian. Born in Kalibo, Capiz, on December 6, 1861. Family moved to Sogod, Cebu, when he was 6. Graduated at 19 from Normal de Manila. Taught in the public schools in Sogod and Catmon. In 1889, he moved to Baybay, Leyte, and quit teaching for agriculture and business. Returned to Cebu and became a journalist, writing for various papers. Ran for Cebu governor but lost. Died on July 9, 1909. Wrote verse and prose in Spanish and Cebuano. Pseudonym: Asuang 2 Mariano Jesus Cuenco - 1888-1964 Born in Carmen on Jan. 16, 1888: brother of Jose Ma. Studied at Colegio de San Carlos and Escuela de Derecho in Manila. Became a lawyer in 1913. Founded La Juventud and Luz de Visayas and was involved with Tingog sa Lungsod, An Camatuoran, and others. Publisher of El Precursor. Wrote Ang basahon sa lungsoranong Pilipinhon, a civic guide. Pen name: Lauro Katindog. Member of Philippine Assembly (1912-16), four-term Cebu representative, two-term Cebu governor, Senate President and Cabinet member. 3 Jose Maria Cuenco - 1885-1972 Born in Carmen, Cebu, on May 19, 1885. Earne AB (Bachelor of Arts) at Colegio de San Carlos; LL.B and PhD at Georgetown University (1907). Taught at the Cebu High School (1907-09), entered the seminary and was ordainted in 1914. Archbishop of Jaro. Founded El Boletin Catolico and Veritas, an English-Spanish weekly. Published travelogues, sermons, speeches, and religious writings. Did translations, authored an English-Cebuano dictionary. Died in Jaro, Iloilo on October 8, 1972. ~~~ Read also ROOTS - Pictures of my Mother and More Cebu, Philippines: The Old Families of Colon Street Tags: Cebu, Philippines, politics, history, Cuenco, Mariano Cuenco This is all for now Cecilia
It was once a sign of virility and masculinity - whatever happened to the high heel?
Underwood & Underwood
I bought this 1920s image because she looked just like a sweet and friendly Filipina bar girl I once knew in Okinawa, Japan. As a photo historian, archivist, and curator of my own Flickr exhibitions, such factors are of paramount importance when deciding what images to acquire.... ;-) On a more serious and interesting note, please see Elmer's educational comments at # 6 below, as well as his notes in the photo itself ! Thanks, Elmer.
Snapshots of an English Country Life
Get an overview of ladies' clothing of the 1950s, from the New Look to a new love for everything casual. A housewife with an hourglass figure was the epitome of mid-20th-century style.
Today, I am taking you to Alsace in the northeastern corner of France. Well, not exactly, but I am going to share a few of my little treasures! If you are not familiar with Alsace, I’ll bet that you could guess from the photo that it is on the border with Germany…but it is still VERY French. Warning! Warning! I feel the French teacher in me coming out! lol photo of Strasbourg from Wikipedia First, I would like to share with you my two favorite Alsatian plates. In the upper left is a Sarreguemines plate in the Obernai pattern depicting an Alsatian woman and her daughter going to church, dressed in traditional costumes. I love the flowers on the border! On the lower right is a Limoges plate featuring the products of Alsace, including a peek at the traditional architecture with a stork nesting on the chimney. I’ll tell you a little more about the costumes and the storks later. The yellow fruit is mirabelles…a sort of yellow plum which makes a yummy tarte! And this little jewel is a special favorite because it was a gift from a dear French friend of mine to my mother. It is only three inches in diameter! It depicts the traditional architecture of Strasbourg with the cathedral in the background and a stork’s nest. It is believed that having a stork build its nest on your home brings luck. However…no fires in the fireplace! And…if you want a baby brother or sister, just leave a sugar cube on the window sill and the stork will grant your wish in return for the treat! I love these little people dressed in the traditional Alsatian costumes! I bought several sets of these to give as gifts, but could only part with one set…which I gave to my sister. She hangs them on her tree at Christmas. I have them hung in several places around my house as a reminder of a trip to Strasbourg for the Christmas Market. When you tug on the string, their arms and legs move! I am sure that you have noticed by now that Alsatian women are frequently portrayed as wearing a large black bow. Actually, there are numerous traditional coiffes or caps for the region, but this one has come to represent all of Alsace. It was worn by the women in protest of the German occupation of Alsace in 1870 and 1914. You have to admire them for making their political views known! The traditional costume is now only worn for special fêtes or holidays. photo from Wikipedia This is a colorful little cookie tin whose cookies long ago...er...disappeared! You can see men and women in costume, as well as references to some of the products of Alsace…vins d’Alsace and bière d’Alsace…wine and beer from Alsace. The brasserie, a sort of bar/restaurant, is serving the local specialties. And, of course, there is a stork’s nest! Hmmmm…I would like to show you this picture that usually hangs in my kitchen…but Kitty isn’t in a sharing mood! It features several labels from the wines of Alsace. Have you ever had a glass of Riesling or Gewürztraminer? Then you have sampled them! Finally! She has allowed me to show you a little peek! I love this one…it has all of the traditional elements…the costumes, the architecture and the stork!! One day, I hope to go back to Alsace…but it will not be soon enough! In the meantime, I will have to visit through my little treasures! Thanks so much for stopping by! Please join me in visiting Mary at Little Red House for Mosaic Monday, where you will see one of her beautiful mosaics and find a list of this week’s participants. Then on Tuesday, head on over to Tam’s at The Gypsy’s Corner where I am joining our wonderful hostess for my very first Three or More Tuesday! There you will find all sorts of interesting collections! I am happy to be a part of this meme and I do believe that it may become a habit! See you next time! A la prochaine!
This appears to be a photographer set up posed picture to be sold as postcards. Photographer unknown. University of Southern California Libraries International Mission Photography Archive, ca.1860-ca.1960 Maryknoll Mission Archives Copyright: Catholic Foreign Mission Society of America, Maryknoll, New York
Learn little-known things about the precolonial period in the Philippines, which is probably the closest thing we ever had to a Golden Age.
Over the next two decades, the team produced over 70,000 photos across 50 countries, from Ireland to India and everywhere in-between. Below are some photos from his collection.
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It is a while since I have been totally blown away by a book. Here is that book – a very generous gift to me from Mai, one of my Estonian readers. It is hard to know how to start telling you …