When in comes to an Ideal Wardrobe, I have grown to understand it’s Quality over Quantity…though, sadly, I may have been hoarding black shoes and handbags (not just black), but I did tr…
Say what?!
Welcome, fashion aficionados, to a journey through the history and allure of the little black dress (LBD)! Prepare to be enchanted as we delve into the fascinating story behind this iconic garment and discover why it's a wardrobe staple for every stylish woman.The story of the little black dress begins in the 1920s, amidst the glamour and excitement of the Jazz Age. It was the legendary fashion designer Coco Chanel who famously declared that every woman should own a simple, elegant black dress t
Audrey Hepburn in a black dress. ..Chanel ❤
Be unforgettable in the season's tailored suits, structured gowns, and refined accessories. Check out ELLE's stunning '50s-inspired fashion shoot on ELLE.com
Happy Sunday, CHANEL group.
„Öltözz rongyosan, és a ruhára fognak emlékezni; öltözz kifogástalanul és a nő emléke marad me...
When in comes to an Ideal Wardrobe, I have grown to understand it’s Quality over Quantity…though, sadly, I may have been hoarding black shoes and handbags (not just black), but I did tr…
Top 50 Fashion Designers of All Time I think there is beauty in everything. What ‘normal’ people would perceive as...
Photos of Chanel founder and designer Gabrielle 'Coco' Chanel's personal style.
The iconic dresses that demonstrate exactly why the Little Black Dress - or LBD - is the ultimate wardrobe must-have
Twentieth-century semiotician Roland Barthes believed that fashion is a form of non-verbal communication that is totally subjective. Barthes Vestimentary Code suggests that meaning is communicated through the interpretation of signs. The sign is a combination of the signifier (the tangible garment) and the signified (the mental representation). When clothing is translated into this rhetorical code, fashion becomes more than just clothing, but rather a reflection of society. When it comes to semiotics, the little black dress is a garment with an extensive system of signs spanning centuries of changing perceptions (Barthes, R. 1967). The Little Black Dress is a fashion staple and one which is closely associated with Coco Chanel. Here, you see her in the 1926 little black dress. At the time, Vogue compared this dress to the Ford Model-T - the first car to be industrially manufactured. To reduce costs, the car was painted only in black, and so blacks association with the industrial revolution and modernism was born. In fashion, the 20s are often referred to as the Androgynous era because of the way that couture shifted towards cleaner lines and away from the emphasis on women's breast and butts. The signifiers of Chanel's little black dress are a long, straight cut with a flat chest and straight waist. The signified, therefore, is of an androgynous, boylike figure. The signifier black was used by Chanel as an unambiguous indication of sexual impropriety, modernity and authority, mimicking that of men, clearly demonstrating that women were prepared to enter the workforce. In this way, she shifted the signified of black from a purely male, authoritarian, and mournful colour to a mature, distinguishing, gender-neutral and authoritative colour (Marcangeli, S. 2015). In this way, the LBD became not only a symbol of feminism but a weapon for liberated womanhood. In recent history, I believe that this was no better epitomised than when Princess Diana wore her iconic black "revenge dress" following Prince Charles' adultery scandal. Chanel claims to have invented the LBD, that's not true, she simply helped popularise it because it was greatly associated with the modern woman of the 20s and who better epitomised that than Ms Chanel? It's often been said also that Chanel is the one who took the black dress from being a gesture of mourning to being considered fashion. That too was naïve. Black clothing in general has undeniably been associated with mourning for a long time. Here, we see a mid-19th-century painting of a governess who is sitting alone, wearing black, presumably in mourning. Notice how the other girls are in light, bright colours connoting carefree girlhood whilst she is in black. Black also had many extensive associations in the West with abstinence; members of the clergy, for example, will be wearing black as a signified of their submission to God and authority (Pastereau, M). Black became known as the colour of respectability. In 1957, Vogue said, black is 'worldly, elegant, plainly alluring, indispensable'. This notion went back a long way. In the Middle Ages, black was not only seen as a colour for elite mourning but also as a very expensive, prestigious, elegant colour. Many aristocrats would wear black to indicate a sense of prestige - a dandiacal elegance which made them stand out amongst the peacock-coloured ensembles characteristic of the Middle Ages. Black also very much had this sense of being an elegant colour in the 19th century. We think of the 19th century as all people in mourning black and that Chanel was the first to make elegant, fashionable black. Nothing could be further from the truth, black was already a colour which was seen as being extremely elegant. As La Mode Paris put it in 1885, "Of course black, which can look very economical, can also be on the contrary, very expensive. And yet, the most distinguished dress, the most becoming dress that can be worn by any woman on any occasion is certainly a black dress". But Black also, and for a long way back, was also associated with sex and power. So, in addition to the idea of death and mourning, it had the suggestion of the Devil (aka, The Prince of Darkness) and hell as the world was presumed to have started from nothing, just darkness (Pastereau, M). In one of Edith Wharton's novels, there is a woman who 'goes to bed' with a man and someone says of her, "What can you expect of someone who was allowed to wear black at her coming-out party?" Black had this connotation of sexiness and eroticism. We see it in the portrait of Madame X, a painting that caused outrage at the time of its reveal, and you see it as well in novels like Anna Karenina where the black velvet that she wears is contrasted with the ivory of her skin. Black's association with power, again goes right back to the Middle Ages to judges and executioners; it's been linked with crime and deviance. In Reservoir Dogs, there's a scene where Mr Pink asks why they can't pick out their own colours, and Joe remarks, “I tried that once, it don't work. You get four guys fighting over who's going to be Mr Black.” Black is associated with the charisma of deviance as well as with the idea of sexualised women. In politics, you have the black of fascism and the black of anarchy. Furthermore, as Valerie Mendez, the fashion historian, points out, black was fashionable long before the 1920s. In particular, she writes that the little black dress was born in the early 1900s, especially after the death of Edward the 7th in 1909. Then, during World War I, black became ubiquitous for mourning but also as a fashion colour. Black was a symbol of the nations shared grief caused by the war, but it was also a more practical colour as women were joining the war effort through taking over industrial job roles. Chanel emphasised the quote, 'Scheherazade is easy, the little black dress is difficult'. This was in retaliation to the brilliant colours which were popular in the early 19 teens - reds, greens, and oranges. She said they made her feel nauseous and she went over to the other extreme by only using white, cream, black, and dark navy blue. Black also has long antecedents as a bohemian, artistic colour. You can find it associated with beatniks, or with black leather jackets. But then you had also the chic cocktail dresses, the high fashion, elegant blacks. Balenciaga, for example, was described as creating dresses in Spanish black which is described as like a deep night without stars. Or Audrey Hepburn - of course - famously wore a plethora of little black dresses. Christian Dior said of black, you can wear black at any age under virtually any circumstances. He also pointed out, as have many other designers, the black dress is appealing for designers because once you take away the colour you can focus on the silhouette, the texture, and other aspects of the dress, just as you would with line drawing for an artist instead of colour. In the 1980s, the Japanese fashion revolution made black the dominant avant-garde colour in fashion. Yohji Yamamoto said the Samurai spirit is black. The Samurai must be able to throw his body into nothingness, the colour and image of which is black. Rei Kawakubo put it more simply when she said there are seven shades of black. And, of course, again, as it always sounded cryptic, a black velvet dress is completely different from a black satin dress or a black linen dress, etc. One of the reasons why black is such a powerful colour is because there are so many layers of meaning. It's like a palimpsest, everything from elegance, evil, desirability, sexiness, power. And for all these layers of meaning, it means that a designer can create a wide variety of clothes, all of which end up having some of the modernity and allure of the little black dress. The little black dress can be whatever the wearer wants, or needs, it to be. In a sense, the little black dress is not a style per se but rather a concept. They’re entirely versatile. There are many ways to design it. It's modern, it changes but it's always the same and it's always a kind of chic armour.
The color is an important part of any wardrobe—in moderation
The late Coco Chanel is one of the most profound designers in history. Take a look at some of her designs that truly stand the test of time.
Haute couture created by the French fashion house Chanel in 1990 for the Spring-Summer 1990 collection. The photograph was taken by the Belgian fashion photographer Etienne Tordoir.
Chanel kept a lavishly decorated apartment above her famous boutique. The grand yet intimate space is filled with crystal chandeliers, gleaming mirrors and personal gifts from her many famous artist friends. The only thing missing is a bedroom — but no matter. Every night, Mademoiselle Chanel slept at the Ritz.
See the evolution of the LBD
Who is Coco Chanel? Here are some facts to know about the iconic designer behind the little black dress and Marilyn Monroe's favorite perfume.
When in comes to an Ideal Wardrobe, I have grown to understand it’s Quality over Quantity…though, sadly, I may have been hoarding black shoes and handbags (not just black), but I did tr…
Explore skorver1's 60643 photos on Flickr!
Coco Chanel, the most famous woman in fashion history, revolutionised womenswear and founded one of the world's top luxury brands.
Hello Blog Buddies! To finish off the 'set' of the beautiful collection of cards by Megan Hess, I would like to present to you a post on the incredibly stylish and completely intriguing, Coco Chanel. Certainly a 'Woman of Style'! Gabrielle Bonheur Chanel was born in 1883 to her mother, Eugénie Jeanne Devolle and her father, Albert Chanel in Maine-et-Loire, France. She was the second daughter of the couple who both lived very poor, nomadic lives. By the late 1800's, the family consisted of five children - two boys and three girls - who all lived together in a one-room lodging in the town of Brive-la-Gaillarde. When Gabrielle was 12, her mother died at the age of 32 from bronchitis. Too poor to support all the children on his own, her father sent his two sons out to work as farm labourers and sent his three daughters to a convent in central France which also housed orphans. The orphanage was a cold, stark, and frugal life, which embraced strict discipline. At age eighteen, Ms Chanel was too old to remain at the orphanage so she went went to live in a boarding house set aside for Catholic girls in the town of Moulins. (Source: boomercafe.com) During her 6 years in the orphanage, Chanel learned the art of sewing which provided her with the skills to find employment as a seamstress. At this time, she also managed to find work as a cabaret performer. It is believed that it was whilst singing in cabarets, that she acquired the name 'Coco'. (Source: Glamour.com) Whilst living in Moulins, a twenty-three year old Chanel met a young French ex-cavalry officer and the wealthy textile heir Étienne Balsan. For three years, she lived with him in his château Royallieu. Balsan introduced Chanel to a lifestyle of opulence and self-indulgence. Ms Chanel was introduced to a wider social group who delighted in parties and purchases. Chanel was bestowed with an abundance of diamonds, dresses and pearls by Balsan. Whilst living at Royallieu, Chanel began designing hats, initially as a diversion that evolved into a commercial enterprise. She became a licensed milliner in 1910 and opened a boutique in Paris. (Source: Wikipedia.com) In 1908, Chanel began an affair with one of Balsan's friends, Captain Arthur Edward Capel who was a wealthy member of the English upper class. Capel paid for an apartment in Paris for Chanel and financed her first shops. Despite Chanel's hopes that they would settle down and build a business together, Capel was never faithful to her. Their affair lasted nine years. (Source: Dailymail.co.uk) In 1913, financed by Capel, Chanel opened a boutique in Deauville, where she introduced deluxe casual clothes suitable for leisure and sport. The fashions were constructed from humble fabrics, not generally used in women's garments at the time, such as jersey and tricot. Her designs were far less structured and greatly removed from the corseted garments of the day. The location of the shop was perfectly situated in the centre of a busy, fashionable street. Chanel sold hats, jackets, sweaters, as well as the iconic marinière (sailor blouse). Chanel had the dedicated support of her sister Antoinette, and her aunt Adrienne. Adrienne and Antoinette would model Chanel's designs on a daily basis by parading through the town, stylishly advertising the Chanel creations. With a determined business sense, Chanel opened another shop in a villa on the Côte Basque. After one year of operation, the business proved to be so lucrative that in 1916, Chanel was able to reimburse Capel his original investment. By 1919, Chanel was registered as a couturière and established her 'Maison de Couture' at 31 rue Cambon, Paris. (Source: Thestylerebels.com) In 1918, Coco Chanel purchased the entire building at 31 rue Cambon, which was situated in one of the most fashionable districts of Paris. In 1921, she opened what may be considered an early development of the 'fashion boutique', which sold a plethora of clothing, hats, and accessories, and later offered jewellery and fragrances. (It is also where the famous Chanel 'mirrored staircase can be seen.) By 1927, Chanel owned five properties on the rue Cambon, encompassing buildings numbered 23 through 31. (Source: famous logos.us) In 1921 Coco Chanel was introduced to the American film maker, Samuel Goldwyn. Goldwyn offered to bring Chanel to Hollywood twice a year to design costumes for MGM movie stars. He offered to pay her millions to do this so Chanel accepted his offer. Screen stars such as Marlene Dietrich and Greta Garbo wore her clothes but the experience left Chanel with a distaste for the growing film culture, referring to it as "...infantile" and denouncing Hollywood as "...the capital of bad taste" as well as "...vulgar." It has been widely speculated that Coco Chanel and her designs left Hollywood because she was told that her dresses were not 'sensational' enough. (Source: Theguardian.com) Coco Chanel was the mistress of some of the most influential men of her time, but she never married. She had significant relationships with the poet Pierre Reverdy, the illustrator and designer Paul Iribe as well as Hugh Grosvenor, the Duke of Westminster. Ms Chanel is said to have preferred the social circles of the British aristocracy to that of the glitz and glamour of Hollywood. It was during this time she developed a strong friendship with Winston Churchill. In 1939, at the beginning of World War II, Coco Chanel closed her shops, maintaining her apartment situated above the couture house at 31 Rue de Cambon. She claimed that it was not a time for fashion. However, as a result of her action, 4,000 female employees lost their jobs. Along with the Duke of Westminster, Ms Chanel’s anti-Semitism was vociferous and well documented. So it is not really too surprising to discover that whilst residing in occupied Paris, Ms Chanel became a mistress of a German Officer. During the German occupation of France, Chanel resided at the Hotel Ritz. It should also be noted that this was the preferred place of residence for upper-echelon German military staff. Her romantic liaison was with Baron Hans Gunther von Dincklage, a German officer who had been an operative in military intelligence since 1920. He helped to pay for Ms Chanel's lifestyle at 'The Ritz'. (Source: whatgoesaroundnyc.com) Much has been speculated about Ms Chanel and the notion that she was a German spy. Some believe that she committed herself to the German cause as early as 1941 and worked directly for General Walter Schellenberg, a chief of SS intelligence. This viewpoint has been fuelled with the evidence that at the end of the war, Schellenberg was tried by the Nuremberg Military Tribunal, and sentenced to six years imprisonment for war crimes. He was released in 1951 owing to incurable liver disease and retreated to Italy. Chanel paid for Schellenberg's medical care and living expenses, financially supported his wife and family, and paid for Schellenberg's funeral upon his death in 1952. A documentary recently released in France went even further, claiming that she spied for the occupiers under the codename “Westminster” and had the Abwehr (German military intelligence) number F-7124. At the end of the war, 1944, Ms Chanel was summoned to be interrogated by the Free French Purge Committee. The committee concluded they had no documented evidence of her collaboration activity and was therefore obliged to release her. According to Chanel's grand-niece, Gabrielle Palasse Labrunie, when Chanel returned home from the interrogation she said, "...Churchill had me freed". (Source: thepaisleycurtain.com) In 1945, Ms Chanel moved to Switzerland, where she lived for several years, part of the time, with von Dinklage. Unlike the pre-war era, women were no longer 'premier couturiers'. Christian Dior achieved success in 1947 with his "New Look", which paved the way for a long line of successful male designers. At more than 70 years old, after having her couture house closed for 15 years, Ms Chanel felt the time was right for her to re-enter the fashion world yet again. The revival and renovation of her couture house in 1954 was fully financed by Pierre Wertheimer. Her new collection was not received well by Parisians, who felt her reputation had been tainted by her wartime association with the Nazis. However, her return to couture was applauded by the British and Americans, who became her long-term, faithful customers. Coco Chanel died on Sunday, 10th January 1971, aged 87 at the Hotel Ritz, where she had resided for more than 30 years. Coco Chanel's contribution to the fashion world can not be over stated. Her innovative use of jersey fabric was a success due to a shortage of other fabrics caused by the war, and because she supplied clothing at a time when women required more simple and practical clothes. Her fluid jersey suits and dresses allowed free movement as did her introduction of pants for women. This was greatly appreciated by women who were working for the war effort as nurses, in civil service and in factories. (Source: thefmshionzorro.com) The iconic Chanel tweed suit was designed for comfort and practicality. It consisted of a jacket and skirt in supple and light wool or mohair tweed and a blouse and jacket lining in jersey or silk. Unlike other designers of the day, Ms Chanel did not stiffen the material or use shoulder pads. Jackets were cut on the straight grain, and had no bust darts, allowing for quick and easy movement. She designed the neckline to leave the neck comfortably free and added functional pockets. For an even higher level of comfort, skirts had a 'grosgrain stay' around the waist, instead of a belt. Above all, meticulous attention was placed on detail during fittings. It has been reported that Ms Chanel conducted tests with models wearing her suits, having them walk around, step up to a platform as if climbing stairs of an imaginary bus, and bend as if getting into a low-slung sports car. Chanel wanted to make sure women could do all of these things while wearing her suit, without accidentally exposing parts of their body they wanted covered. (Source: adopt.biz) After the jersey suit, 'the little black dress' is often cited as a Chanel contribution to the fashion vocabulary. Still worn today, a simple black dress in all it's forms, does not appear to be ever going out of style. (Source: pinky pink.org) In an era when jewellery was strictly categorised into either 'fine' or 'costume' jewellery, Ms Chanel introduced a line of jewellery that was considered a 'conceptual innovation', as her design and materials incorporated both simulated and fine gem stones. Long strings of pearls and cuff bracelets became her signature pieces. Chanel turned costume jewellery into a coveted accessory. Her jewellery line was incredibly successful. (Source: trades.com) An article can not be written about Coco Chanel without mentioning the 'Chanel Bag'. In 1929 Chanel offered a handbag inspired by the military with a thin shoulder strap allowing the user to have her hands free. Following her comeback, Chanel updated the design in February 1955, creating what would become the "2.55" (named after the date of its creation). (Source: the gloss.com) In the early 1920s, Ms Chanel felt inspired to debut a scent that would ..."epitomise the flapper and speak to the liberated spirit of the 1920s...". Chanel No. 5 was the first perfume launched by Coco Chanel. The chemical formula for the fragrance was compounded by French-Russian chemist and perfumer Ernest Beaux. The design of the bottle has often been discussed. She wanted the bottle to be "...pure transparency ... an invisible bottle". It is generally considered, however, that the bottle design was inspired by the rectangular beveled lines of the Charvet toiletry bottles, which were favored by her lover, Arthur Capel. (Source: fashioneyewear.co.uk) One of the most instantly recognizable emblems in all of Chanel’s accessories, clothing and jewellery lines, is the frequently recurring camellia. It is believed Ms Chanel first fell in love with the camellia after reading Alexandre Dumas’ ‘La Dame aux Camellias.' The story depicts a heroine who always wore a white camellia, showing to the world that her heart remained pure. It was also loved by Chanel because, the flower's lack of scent meant it never interfered with her most famous perfume – Chanel No. 5. It is difficult to decide what sort of person Coco Chanel was. Biographies describe her as ... "Anti-Semitic, homophobic, a social climber, opportunistic and ridiculously snobbish." Apparently she actively collaborated with the Germans during the Nazi occupation of Paris, but still managed to revolutionise women's fashion with the introduction of 'low-regarded' fabrics into women's wardrobes as well as modern, clean and practical lines within her designs. Her significant contributions to the world of fashion are often listed as; The elimination of the corset from women's fashion The unisex style of dressing The notion that style could be both classic and casual The little black dress Chanel No.5 perfume Women in sailor tops The use of red lipstick Long strings of PearlsCostume jewellery Coco Chanel is truely a woman of style ...as well as a simply fascinating woman in history. Here is a flatly I created, inspired by the understated designs and colours of Coco Chanel. I do love the Chanel lipsticks and lip glosses I own! This Victorian cuff bracelet is a favourite of mine and was my mother's. (I don't own Chanel No. 5 perfume but this India Hicks perfume is in a similar shaped bottle!) So there you have it... Do you own any Chanel products? Do you find Ms Chanel as interesting as I do? Let me know!
Hello Blog Buddies! To finish off the 'set' of the beautiful collection of cards by Megan Hess, I would like to present to you a post on the incredibly stylish and completely intriguing, Coco Chanel. Certainly a 'Woman of Style'! Gabrielle Bonheur Chanel was born in 1883 to her mother, Eugénie Jeanne Devolle and her father, Albert Chanel in Maine-et-Loire, France. She was the second daughter of the couple who both lived very poor, nomadic lives. By the late 1800's, the family consisted of five children - two boys and three girls - who all lived together in a one-room lodging in the town of Brive-la-Gaillarde. When Gabrielle was 12, her mother died at the age of 32 from bronchitis. Too poor to support all the children on his own, her father sent his two sons out to work as farm labourers and sent his three daughters to a convent in central France which also housed orphans. The orphanage was a cold, stark, and frugal life, which embraced strict discipline. At age eighteen, Ms Chanel was too old to remain at the orphanage so she went went to live in a boarding house set aside for Catholic girls in the town of Moulins. (Source: boomercafe.com) During her 6 years in the orphanage, Chanel learned the art of sewing which provided her with the skills to find employment as a seamstress. At this time, she also managed to find work as a cabaret performer. It is believed that it was whilst singing in cabarets, that she acquired the name 'Coco'. (Source: Glamour.com) Whilst living in Moulins, a twenty-three year old Chanel met a young French ex-cavalry officer and the wealthy textile heir Étienne Balsan. For three years, she lived with him in his château Royallieu. Balsan introduced Chanel to a lifestyle of opulence and self-indulgence. Ms Chanel was introduced to a wider social group who delighted in parties and purchases. Chanel was bestowed with an abundance of diamonds, dresses and pearls by Balsan. Whilst living at Royallieu, Chanel began designing hats, initially as a diversion that evolved into a commercial enterprise. She became a licensed milliner in 1910 and opened a boutique in Paris. (Source: Wikipedia.com) In 1908, Chanel began an affair with one of Balsan's friends, Captain Arthur Edward Capel who was a wealthy member of the English upper class. Capel paid for an apartment in Paris for Chanel and financed her first shops. Despite Chanel's hopes that they would settle down and build a business together, Capel was never faithful to her. Their affair lasted nine years. (Source: Dailymail.co.uk) In 1913, financed by Capel, Chanel opened a boutique in Deauville, where she introduced deluxe casual clothes suitable for leisure and sport. The fashions were constructed from humble fabrics, not generally used in women's garments at the time, such as jersey and tricot. Her designs were far less structured and greatly removed from the corseted garments of the day. The location of the shop was perfectly situated in the centre of a busy, fashionable street. Chanel sold hats, jackets, sweaters, as well as the iconic marinière (sailor blouse). Chanel had the dedicated support of her sister Antoinette, and her aunt Adrienne. Adrienne and Antoinette would model Chanel's designs on a daily basis by parading through the town, stylishly advertising the Chanel creations. With a determined business sense, Chanel opened another shop in a villa on the Côte Basque. After one year of operation, the business proved to be so lucrative that in 1916, Chanel was able to reimburse Capel his original investment. By 1919, Chanel was registered as a couturière and established her 'Maison de Couture' at 31 rue Cambon, Paris. (Source: Thestylerebels.com) In 1918, Coco Chanel purchased the entire building at 31 rue Cambon, which was situated in one of the most fashionable districts of Paris. In 1921, she opened what may be considered an early development of the 'fashion boutique', which sold a plethora of clothing, hats, and accessories, and later offered jewellery and fragrances. (It is also where the famous Chanel 'mirrored staircase can be seen.) By 1927, Chanel owned five properties on the rue Cambon, encompassing buildings numbered 23 through 31. (Source: famous logos.us) In 1921 Coco Chanel was introduced to the American film maker, Samuel Goldwyn. Goldwyn offered to bring Chanel to Hollywood twice a year to design costumes for MGM movie stars. He offered to pay her millions to do this so Chanel accepted his offer. Screen stars such as Marlene Dietrich and Greta Garbo wore her clothes but the experience left Chanel with a distaste for the growing film culture, referring to it as "...infantile" and denouncing Hollywood as "...the capital of bad taste" as well as "...vulgar." It has been widely speculated that Coco Chanel and her designs left Hollywood because she was told that her dresses were not 'sensational' enough. (Source: Theguardian.com) Coco Chanel was the mistress of some of the most influential men of her time, but she never married. She had significant relationships with the poet Pierre Reverdy, the illustrator and designer Paul Iribe as well as Hugh Grosvenor, the Duke of Westminster. Ms Chanel is said to have preferred the social circles of the British aristocracy to that of the glitz and glamour of Hollywood. It was during this time she developed a strong friendship with Winston Churchill. In 1939, at the beginning of World War II, Coco Chanel closed her shops, maintaining her apartment situated above the couture house at 31 Rue de Cambon. She claimed that it was not a time for fashion. However, as a result of her action, 4,000 female employees lost their jobs. Along with the Duke of Westminster, Ms Chanel’s anti-Semitism was vociferous and well documented. So it is not really too surprising to discover that whilst residing in occupied Paris, Ms Chanel became a mistress of a German Officer. During the German occupation of France, Chanel resided at the Hotel Ritz. It should also be noted that this was the preferred place of residence for upper-echelon German military staff. Her romantic liaison was with Baron Hans Gunther von Dincklage, a German officer who had been an operative in military intelligence since 1920. He helped to pay for Ms Chanel's lifestyle at 'The Ritz'. (Source: whatgoesaroundnyc.com) Much has been speculated about Ms Chanel and the notion that she was a German spy. Some believe that she committed herself to the German cause as early as 1941 and worked directly for General Walter Schellenberg, a chief of SS intelligence. This viewpoint has been fuelled with the evidence that at the end of the war, Schellenberg was tried by the Nuremberg Military Tribunal, and sentenced to six years imprisonment for war crimes. He was released in 1951 owing to incurable liver disease and retreated to Italy. Chanel paid for Schellenberg's medical care and living expenses, financially supported his wife and family, and paid for Schellenberg's funeral upon his death in 1952. A documentary recently released in France went even further, claiming that she spied for the occupiers under the codename “Westminster” and had the Abwehr (German military intelligence) number F-7124. At the end of the war, 1944, Ms Chanel was summoned to be interrogated by the Free French Purge Committee. The committee concluded they had no documented evidence of her collaboration activity and was therefore obliged to release her. According to Chanel's grand-niece, Gabrielle Palasse Labrunie, when Chanel returned home from the interrogation she said, "...Churchill had me freed". (Source: thepaisleycurtain.com) In 1945, Ms Chanel moved to Switzerland, where she lived for several years, part of the time, with von Dinklage. Unlike the pre-war era, women were no longer 'premier couturiers'. Christian Dior achieved success in 1947 with his "New Look", which paved the way for a long line of successful male designers. At more than 70 years old, after having her couture house closed for 15 years, Ms Chanel felt the time was right for her to re-enter the fashion world yet again. The revival and renovation of her couture house in 1954 was fully financed by Pierre Wertheimer. Her new collection was not received well by Parisians, who felt her reputation had been tainted by her wartime association with the Nazis. However, her return to couture was applauded by the British and Americans, who became her long-term, faithful customers. Coco Chanel died on Sunday, 10th January 1971, aged 87 at the Hotel Ritz, where she had resided for more than 30 years. Coco Chanel's contribution to the fashion world can not be over stated. Her innovative use of jersey fabric was a success due to a shortage of other fabrics caused by the war, and because she supplied clothing at a time when women required more simple and practical clothes. Her fluid jersey suits and dresses allowed free movement as did her introduction of pants for women. This was greatly appreciated by women who were working for the war effort as nurses, in civil service and in factories. (Source: thefmshionzorro.com) The iconic Chanel tweed suit was designed for comfort and practicality. It consisted of a jacket and skirt in supple and light wool or mohair tweed and a blouse and jacket lining in jersey or silk. Unlike other designers of the day, Ms Chanel did not stiffen the material or use shoulder pads. Jackets were cut on the straight grain, and had no bust darts, allowing for quick and easy movement. She designed the neckline to leave the neck comfortably free and added functional pockets. For an even higher level of comfort, skirts had a 'grosgrain stay' around the waist, instead of a belt. Above all, meticulous attention was placed on detail during fittings. It has been reported that Ms Chanel conducted tests with models wearing her suits, having them walk around, step up to a platform as if climbing stairs of an imaginary bus, and bend as if getting into a low-slung sports car. Chanel wanted to make sure women could do all of these things while wearing her suit, without accidentally exposing parts of their body they wanted covered. (Source: adopt.biz) After the jersey suit, 'the little black dress' is often cited as a Chanel contribution to the fashion vocabulary. Still worn today, a simple black dress in all it's forms, does not appear to be ever going out of style. (Source: pinky pink.org) In an era when jewellery was strictly categorised into either 'fine' or 'costume' jewellery, Ms Chanel introduced a line of jewellery that was considered a 'conceptual innovation', as her design and materials incorporated both simulated and fine gem stones. Long strings of pearls and cuff bracelets became her signature pieces. Chanel turned costume jewellery into a coveted accessory. Her jewellery line was incredibly successful. (Source: trades.com) An article can not be written about Coco Chanel without mentioning the 'Chanel Bag'. In 1929 Chanel offered a handbag inspired by the military with a thin shoulder strap allowing the user to have her hands free. Following her comeback, Chanel updated the design in February 1955, creating what would become the "2.55" (named after the date of its creation). (Source: the gloss.com) In the early 1920s, Ms Chanel felt inspired to debut a scent that would ..."epitomise the flapper and speak to the liberated spirit of the 1920s...". Chanel No. 5 was the first perfume launched by Coco Chanel. The chemical formula for the fragrance was compounded by French-Russian chemist and perfumer Ernest Beaux. The design of the bottle has often been discussed. She wanted the bottle to be "...pure transparency ... an invisible bottle". It is generally considered, however, that the bottle design was inspired by the rectangular beveled lines of the Charvet toiletry bottles, which were favored by her lover, Arthur Capel. (Source: fashioneyewear.co.uk) One of the most instantly recognizable emblems in all of Chanel’s accessories, clothing and jewellery lines, is the frequently recurring camellia. It is believed Ms Chanel first fell in love with the camellia after reading Alexandre Dumas’ ‘La Dame aux Camellias.' The story depicts a heroine who always wore a white camellia, showing to the world that her heart remained pure. It was also loved by Chanel because, the flower's lack of scent meant it never interfered with her most famous perfume – Chanel No. 5. It is difficult to decide what sort of person Coco Chanel was. Biographies describe her as ... "Anti-Semitic, homophobic, a social climber, opportunistic and ridiculously snobbish." Apparently she actively collaborated with the Germans during the Nazi occupation of Paris, but still managed to revolutionise women's fashion with the introduction of 'low-regarded' fabrics into women's wardrobes as well as modern, clean and practical lines within her designs. Her significant contributions to the world of fashion are often listed as; The elimination of the corset from women's fashion The unisex style of dressing The notion that style could be both classic and casual The little black dress Chanel No.5 perfume Women in sailor tops The use of red lipstick Long strings of PearlsCostume jewellery Coco Chanel is truely a woman of style ...as well as a simply fascinating woman in history. Here is a flatly I created, inspired by the understated designs and colours of Coco Chanel. I do love the Chanel lipsticks and lip glosses I own! This Victorian cuff bracelet is a favourite of mine and was my mother's. (I don't own Chanel No. 5 perfume but this India Hicks perfume is in a similar shaped bottle!) So there you have it... Do you own any Chanel products? Do you find Ms Chanel as interesting as I do? Let me know!
When in comes to an Ideal Wardrobe, I have grown to understand it’s Quality over Quantity…though, sadly, I may have been hoarding black shoes and handbags (not just black), but I did tr…
Colliers de perles XXL, gold-plated cufflinks, logo earrings, and camellia brooches…
The vintage-inspired footwear includes a very modern sole.
Comment Coco est devenue Chanel
When in comes to an Ideal Wardrobe, I have grown to understand it’s Quality over Quantity…though, sadly, I may have been hoarding black shoes and handbags (not just black), but I did tr…
#BoFW
