Flat steel boning, spiral steel boning, German plastic boning (aka synthetic whalebone) - what corset boning is best for historical corsets?

Learn how to make your own corset with this comprehensive guide that provides step-by-step instructions and free corset pattern.

Facebook Twitter Google+ Pinterest Tumblr If you read my previous post, you’ll remember I’ve been designing a digital mannequin with my CAD professional Simon with the purpose of designing corset patterns to then print out and use. We’ve initially made the mannequin to my proportions and Simon drafted a pattern I had sketched so we could …

An introductory guide to corset making by Julia Bremble

This is a guide of how I sew my corsets, I think that is is a really simple way since there is no need to worry about the “stitch in the ditch” issue, having seams that are not exactly …

Paper Corset Mockup: A well fitting corset can require several mockups and fittings to get right. You can save yourself some time and frustration by creating a quick mock up in paper first so that you can look for obvious flaws and fitting issues before you do you…

Here I walk you through the sewing of my Edwardian “S-Bend” corset, using a real historical pattern.

Here I walk you through the sewing of my Edwardian “S-Bend” corset, using a real historical pattern.

There are already so many supplies needed for sewing, and the question of what fabric to use has mystified many seamstresses. Read on!

DIY Corset Top Free Sewing Patterns

Well, it's happened again: I've got the corset bug. And it's a good thing--I've finally pulled out the underbust corset kit from Sew Curv...

This is an extensive value-for-money pattern book (294 pages in total) with ten beautiful patterns to work through - inspiration has been taken from historical examples that have been reimagined for the 21st century maker. ALSO INCLUDES A 25 PAGE GENERAL CORSET CONSTRUCTION MANUAL. As with all corset patterns, these patterns are not a beginners level sewing project. Although I include a tonne of written information with these patterns, I don't include a video of how to make these corsets, sorry - there are plenty of YouTube tutorials on line if you are more of a visual learner. For this collection I wanted to start with the earliest design I have patterned which are some stays from the early eighteenth century – the Baroque, and finish with one of my favourite patents – the Elizabeth Hume design from the first world war some 200 years later. I have added some historical text to give some background to the eras covered for the simple reason that history is interesting! It also gives some context to the designs – corsets were after all fundamentally about creating the correct underpinnings to shape and support the fashions of the time. Project one - fully-boned stays (1715) Project two - part-boned stays (1770's) Project three - transitional stays (1795) Project four – short stays (1810's) Project five – long stays (18 teens) Project six – mid Victorian corset (1860's) Project seven – late Victorian corset (1895) Project eight – turn of the century ribbon Project nine - Edwardian 'S-bend' corset (1905) Project ten – 19 teens (1915) See photo for the measurements that these patterns cover. Please take a look at my website where I have lots of information about corset making. About the author: Caroline Woollin is a designer specialising in corsetry. She has been developing exquisite and unusual patterns since 2014 and has amassed more than 80 designs to her catalogue. Each design takes approximately one month to complete and involves painstaking experimentation into grainline and panel angles to arrive at the most wrinkle-free garment possible. Inspiration is from a variety of sources – original historical patterns play a part but often she just mashes shapes together in CAD to come up with new and exciting designs; triangular panels ending at points, corsets made entirely of gussets, gores in unusual juxtapositions, tiered hip fins with pockets. She is not afraid of trying completely new ways of doing things and frequently writes articles about her findings for platforms such as Foundations Revealed. Why buy this book? Corsets were historically worn to create the fashionable silhouette of the day, to give bust support, and to hold up the weight of skirts (or stockings in the 20th century). Not all Victorians were tight-laced to the point of discomfort - maids wore corsets and went about their duties without hindrance. In the 1920’s however, a straight boyish silhouette contributed to the corset falling out of fashion, as did the later invention of the brassiere, although girdles were common until the 1970’s. These days everything goes – cosplaying and burlesque have all contributed to an increase in the interest in corsetry, and from reading the many forums on the subject, bust support and back problems are also cited as being the driver in the quest to learn. Some people just love the feeling of being hugged (the corset ‘hug’) – slight pressures in certain places can alleviate pain. An off-the-rack corset will rarely provide a perfect fit that will help with a persons’ idiosyncratic requirements. Moreover, different designs give different levels of comfort and for those new to wearing a corset, they may need some time to find their ultimate fit and become accustomed to it. Often, a number of different styles will need to be tried to arrive at a design that works – most people don’t have the budget to recruit a corset maker to do this for them, and learning themselves is the most economic option - trying lots of different designs is the best way to find the most comfortable fit and shape for your body. Please remember that these patterns can't be used for commercial profit (such as a line of ready to wear corsets) - use to your hearts content, but only for yourself and clients!

There are many times making your own corset kit comes in handy. Need a corset? Need a perfect match to your fabric? Then making your own corset kit might be the answer for you. This tutorial for a corset kit was originally featured in our pageant wear pattern Katherine. However, you can use it in place of any corset to add a perfect match to many of our other patterns such as Gracelynn, and Lilac. By removing the center back panel, you can also add it to Odette. Let's get started! Supplies Cording (or a round shoe lace) This will not stay in the finished corset, so color doesn't matter. The size of the cording will determine the finished size of your loops. I prefer to use 3/16" cording. You may go a little bigger to make it a little easier to turn. You will want the cording to be 4.5 times the length of your corset. 3/8" or 1/2" boning without casing (Flexicurve Polyester Boning recommended) Cut your boning to be 2 times the finished length you want the corset plus 4". So if you want the corset 10", cut the boning 24" long. 5/8 Yard of fabric for lace up or to cover cording Zipper Foot Sewing Machine Pins Scissors or rotary cutter and cutting mat We will start by making continuous bias tape using the directions below. If you are visual learner and would like to watch one of our Youtube tutorials using the same method, check out the video below and catch back up in Step 9. Construction: Step 1: First we will need to create a 2” bias stripe with which we will be working with. It is very important that this is cut on a bias so the corset loops and tie will lay flat and smooth. To do this take your square and draw a line dividing the square into two triangles as shown. Mark the top and bottom of the square with an X. Cut the square in half along this line. Step 2: Now place your triangles right sides together, matching the X’s as shown. Shift your triangles so that 1/4” is not overlapped on both sides. Pin in place and using a 1/4” seam allowance, sew as shown in the picture above. Step 3: Press the seam open as shown. You now have a parallelogram! You can trim off the tiny 1/4” extra on each side so the ends with the seam allowance are straight. On the wrong side of the fabric, use a fabric marking tool of choice to create horizontal lines that are parallel with the top and bottom of your fabric, 2” apart. Step 4: Fold your parallelogram, right sides together so you can see where the lines you just drew match up. Step 5: Now shift your lines by pulling the corners in opposite directions so that your lines on the left side are now lined up with the line that was previously above it on the right side. This will create your spiral as we cut the bias lines. Step 6: Pin the fabric, right sides together, where these lines will cross 1/4” down. The lines will look like they are going opposite directions on either side of the seam allowance. The lines meet exactly where my pin enters the fabric. Check both sides to make sure they are intersecting at 1/4”. Using a 1/4” seam allowance, sew your loop of fabric together. Step 7: Press the seam open as shown. You can now see that your lines are all matching in the loops. Step 8: Start at either end of your loop and cut your fabric along the line, creating a long strip of fabric. Step 9: Next you will need to cut your bias strip down to the sizes you will need. Trim off the triangle points so you have a rectangle. Cut one strip to be 4 times the length you want your finished corset. This will be for your loops. Cut a second strip to be 8 times the length you want your corset. This will be for the lace up. Step 10: Take the bias strip for the loops and fold it around your cording so that right sides are together and the cording is in the inside. Stitch back and forth across the top several times to secure the cording. Stitch again 1/4" below the first row of stitching. Step 11: Using your zipper foot, stitch down the length of the cording so it is encased in the bias tape. Stitch as close to the cording as you can, but be very careful you do not catch the cording in your stitching. Step 12: Trim your seam allowance down to be about 2 times the width of the cording as shown. Step 13: The end of the cording should be sticking out of the end of your bias strip. Pulling on it you should be able to turn your bias strip right side out. This will give you a tiny tube to make loops on your corset. Cut off the end where to cording was attached. Set aside. Step 14: Next we will make the lace up for the corset. Fold the bias strip in half right sides together and sew down the long side with a 1/4” seam allowance. Step 15: Turn the lace up right side out and press. You may find it easier to turn by using a safety pin to help you. Step 16: Trim the ends of the lace up to be at an angle. Tuck in 1/2” on each end. Stitch in place as shown. Your lace up is now done. Step 17: Take your boning and mark the placement for the loops. Make a mark 1" from the top. Then make a mark every 3/4" below that down the entire boning. Step 18: Take your loop fabric. Pin it to the boning just above your first mark. Pin it again to the boning just below the second mark. The loop should extend only 1/4" past the edge of the boning. If you are finding it difficult to pin your loops. Use tape to hold them in place. Step 19: Sew back and forth across the loop on each end. Trim off the excess loop. Then take the remaining loop length and pin it just above the loop on the boning. Then pin the other end just below the next mark. Make sure to keep the loops even by only extending them 1/4” from the boning. Step 20: Sew the loop in place again by stitching back and forth across the loop several times. Trim off the excess loop strip. Repeat step 19-20 until you have sewn loops down the entire length of your boning. Discard the excess loop strip. Thank you so much to Brooklyn for this fabulous tutorial! We would love to see and celebrate what you make. Please share your beauties with us in our Facebook Group or on Instagram @CKCPatterns. SEW Inspired ~ Emily

Corset for the Business Professional: Estimated Cost: ~$30-$50 (more if you don't already own the necessary tools) Estimated completion time: 15-20 hours Difficulty: Moderate - Challenging (dependent on skill level) _________________________________________________________________…

Learn how to make your own corset with this comprehensive guide that provides step-by-step instructions and free corset pattern.

This 40 page PDF downloadable book outlines various methods of creating back closures for corsets; How to measure for grommets (for both spiral lacing and crisscross lacing), lacing materials and lacing methods, using rivets and D-rings, "floating" grommets and "hidden" grommets with zippers - keep the corset control a secret!

Paper Corset Mockup: A well fitting corset can require several mockups and fittings to get right. You can save yourself some time and frustration by creating a quick mock up in paper first so that you can look for obvious flaws and fitting issues before you do you…

Learn how to make your own corset with this comprehensive guide that provides step-by-step instructions and free corset pattern.

[Note: the following has been pasted directly from livejournal, and is an amalgamation of several entries] July 4th, 2012: So I was thinking today about the zone-front gown I want to make and the 1780s/1790s stays I will need to make to go underneath it. However, I'm not allowed to start a new corset until my current one is done. So I finally-finally-finally ordered boning for my dark red 1890s corset. Of course, the fabric for the boning channels is still in Halifax, and I am in Toronto until september, but that's beside the point. I wasn't sure what type of boning to use for the channels on the side, which have the sharpest curves. The original 1890s corset mine is patterned from is boned with extra-wide flat steels, and it has a very sharp bust-waist-hips ratio. So, in theory at least, I could achieve the same sharp waist with flats. However, lots of people find that modern flat steels don't bend sharply enough to achieve the type of waist reduction this corset is made for. So I ordered more boning than I will actually need. I ordered enough boning to fill every channel with an 8mm x .4mm flat steel, which is thinner and therefore springier than a regular 6mm x .6mm flat. I also ordered spiral steels for the three channels with the sharpest bends in them (the ones at the sides and side-fronts). Spirals bend really easily and sharply, to the point where they can get permanent kinks in them if you don't store them correctly. But I don't think they're going to give me the really clean, smooth look on the outside of the corset that makes the original so beautiful. We'll see =D So here is the first part of the corset diary. First of all, here is a picture of the original corset: The pattern is from the book "Corsets: Historical Patterns and Techniques" by Jill Salen. I was inspired by these corsets: The one on the left is from the 1880s; I'm not sure who currently has it. The one on the right is a Royal Worcester corset from 1876, currently held in the collection of the Metropolitan Museum of Art. I started by taking my exact measurements and then comparing them with the measurements of the pattern. I compared the b-w-h ratio of the original corset with my own and decided how much waist reduction I wanted and what the final measurements of the corset needed to be. I altered the pattern and then made a muslin, which ended up looking like this: And then like this: As you can see, it stretched. It stretched more than 3 inches. That's because every panel is cut on the bias, and my mock-up is made of factory cotton and a thick cotton twill, which stretches a looooot more than the coutil of the final corset. But the mock-up still gave me a chance to see if there were alterations needed to the fit or the shape. I added about an inch and a half to the top at center front and gave it a slight sweetheart neckline, and added about half an inch to the bottom all the way around. Since the pieces are cut on the bias, I took a little more off the waist of the corset to achieve the waist reduction I want, which is about 5". At the same time, I gave myself a little more room through the rib cage (by a little I mean about a 1/4" per side). My final corset is made of white herringbone coutil with an outer layer of a really nice dark red cotton. These two fabrics were cut and sewn as if they are one layer. I started by stay-stitching all of the panels, since they are on the bias, and inserted the busk. I then corded the tops of the four center-front panels with a thick wool yarn of the same colour as the outer fabric. I used a beading hook to pull the yarn through the pre-sewn channels. Pre-sewing the cording channels prevents the fabric from warping - otherwise you end up with a top piece that is considerably smaller than the bottom piece because it has been zig-zagged up and down over the cording. Here are the four CF panels after cording. Also, note the backwards busk. Oops. Not sure how I did that, but it doesn't make much of a difference and it's too late to take it out now. Next, I put the corset together, flat-felling the seams to about 1/4". The boning channels will cover these seams on the outside, but I still want them to look nice on the inside, and flat-felling makes for a very strong seam. I then attached the waist tape. The seams that hold the waist tape down will be covered by the bone casings. Here is the inside of the corset before the waist tape was sewn down: With the waist tape sewn down: Here's the outside: And here's a close-up of the cording at the top: There are actually lacing grommets in it now, too, but I haven't taken any photos of it since I put them in. They're silver, and grommety, and 1" apart. I'm sure you can imagine them. ;) So there it is! Can't wait to finish it and start flossing and embroidering it! May 6, 2013, after losing weight and opening the whole thing up again for alterations: Put grommets in today, so the main parts of the alteration are finished =D Yay! Now I just have to re-bind the edges and re-floss the channels. Took some photos in the costume studio. July 27, 2013: Good shot of the flossing and cording at the top of the corset, which is unfortunately hidden by the jacket. Excuse the derpy face and my plate - added this shot because you can really see the shape of the corset. Better photos to come. February 2015: (Since I promised better photos, here's the portfolio page - a page like this for each costume can be found under the 'portfolio' tab of this blog.)

Quoi, comment, il serait possible de se faire un corset sur-mesure toute seule et sans patron, le tout en 10 étapes seulement ? Eh oui !! C'est même ce que je vous propose aujourd'hui, petits veinards ;-) Je précise que je ne suis pas une professionnelle...

Corsets are a clothing piece often worn to elegant and dressy events. They efficiently bring out a woman’s natural assets and enhance her body due to their tightly fitted sides and lace-up bodice.

Моя корсажная история (продолжение2) Выкройка корсета | Модистка Энн | Яндекс Дзен

Sewing Pattern Make Historical Corsets for Women Uncut and Factory Folded This listing is for one sewing pattern to make all of the items listed below. Directions and pattern pieces are included. Please note that anything else shown as well as any fabric or supplies needed are not included. Complete your historical look with any of these corsets! Sew a corset that is lined and has eyelets and ribbon or cording. Make with or without peplum or front flounce accent. Straps can be classic or tied and eyelets and lacing can be in single or triple rows. Pattern Makes: • classic corset • peplum corset • triple laced corset • tied corset Sizes Included: • Women 6 to 12 • Women 14 to 20 Butterick 4669

A corset dress is a dress that laces up the back like a corset. It is a great alternative to the usual zipper closure because you can adjust it to fit your figure. Corset dresses can be expensive, but you can always make your own using an...