Here's what to do when your sewing machine thread bunches up. Sewing machine thread bunching up on the top or underside of fabric is a common problem & a frustrating one! But don't despair, there are lots of things you can check to solve this issue. Refer to this checklist before call a sewing machine repair man!
Snippets and Threads (A Foldable/Portable Thread Catcher) Free Tutorial and Pattern
And you won't even have to hide its flaws
a gallery curated by Enchanticals ~I'm Coming Back
ALL NATURAL LEAF THREADING ACTIVITY - engage with nature, get creative and develop fine motor skills. Fun!
Threads & Blooms is a Toronto based lifestyle blogger sharing fashion, food, and flower inspiration
Francisco García Olmedo no pudo contener una sonrisa irónica. No es pare menos. Cuando este experto mundial en ingeniería agrónoma y biotecnología se enfrentó en un debate televisado por internet a propósito de los archifamosos transgénicos, su interlocutor, contrario a la modificación genética de alimentos, soltó, en un momento dado, la palabra de moda: epigenética.
Aboubakar Fofana is a master natural indigo dyer dedicated to sharing his passion for ancestral growing, weaving and dyeing skills throughout the world.
Sunday's Quilt Inspiration had to do with crazy quilts because I needed some ideas for the crazy quilt bolster I've been working on. Well, I'm still working on the bolster and need to see how lace was used on some of the Victorian quilts that I've seen. So I figured that I'd start with crazy lace. Then we'll just see what happens from there. All of these photos are on my "crazy, quilts" board. Notice the spider and spider web in the next piece? I had to find out why so many crazy quilts included them and, it turns out, there was a good reason: women of the Victorian era, both in Europe and in the States, believed that spiders were a sign of good luck. Additionally, because spiders "weave" their webs, they were good luck for weavers of cloth and those who used the cloth--needlewomen. Naturally, because many crazy quilts depicted the interests of the family, needlewomen include the spiders and their webs to represent their own work. Although I found several articles on this topic, two were especially interesting reads: http://www.caron-net.com/featurefiles/featmay.html and http://cqmagonline.com/vol09iss3/articles/1002/index.shtml. I recommend them if you're interested in learning more about crazy quilts in general. The second article is from Crazy Quilts Magazine Online, which has many articles available for free. Enjoy some more pins, these from my "vintage, joy" board. Happy Quilting, Mary
Make yourself a string bowl or two with my easy tutorial. Click through for the tutorial...
Made-to-Order crochet Monstera leaf coasters made with white and dark green acrylic thread. Comes with four pieces. *Cotton thread can be used upon request, but may change the color, size and time to complete order. These measure about 5 inches across. You can purchase the base pattern for these from CamexiaDesigns on Etsy, but I adapted this pattern to better suit coaster use.
Thread breaks and tangles can be frustrating when sewing- learn about several products that condition thread and can make hand sewing much easier.
Do you knit or crochet? Browse our favorite artisanal yarn brands including Purl Soho, Green Mountain Spinnery, Brooklyn Tweed, and more.
This soap is as beautiful as it is nurturing, filled with warming scents and herbs known to promote lymphatic flow. Create your own gorgeous soap crystals and use them in a ritual to help your lymphatic system open up!
Macrame is hot right now after so many years in craft exile, have you tried it? Macrame looks more complicated than it actually is – the knots are easy to master and very satisfying to do and what’s great is that you need minimal materials. Once you’ve mastered the basic knots you’ll be able to …
One of my joys last winter was taking part in excellent online learning events by the UK Braid Society. My first event by published lacemaker Gillian Dye, was on a technique that surprisingly grabbed my attention - Yorkshire Button making. Less known than passementerie buttons such as the Dorset button, the Yorkshire button has a pleasing rounded organic shape which I recall seeing many a time on historical garments. As my fingers started to learn the technique on a wintery afternoon, little did I realise how much pleasure weaving would give me and others. The 21st century mindset is for buttons that are generally flat, and sadly all to often mass produced in plastic. How often in my stitch work I have come to the end of a project only to struggle with finding a pleasing button. While there are now many other options for making closures, buttons provide a charming decorative edge which is hard to beat and this is actually where their origins lie. Cultures around the world developed their own traditions for button making, which in the first instance were purely for those who could afford to decorate garments. Often soft stuffed like these French antique crocheted buttons, many designs resulted in an uneven shape that is perhaps less appealing to the modern eye. The Heritage Crafts website gives an excellent account of this history of the creation of these passementerie buttons in England. The beauty of this Yorkshire button is that unlike many passementerie buttons, the technique is reasonably simple and easy to learn. All that is required is a simple cardboard template, a smooth yarn or thread and a tapestry needle. A template of around 4cm is an excellent starting point and should be marked with accurate clock face points that are evenly snipped into by around 3mm. For this working example I chose a remnant of variagated sock yarn and started with a length approximately one and a half lengths of my arm. I found it is best to avoid very long working lengths which ususally resulted in thread tangles. Leaving a tail of at least 20cm, the button is started by bringing up through the central point on the card Then starts weaving the framework around the card, beginning by pulling the thread into the snip at the 1 oclock position and around the back of the card and up into the 2 o'clock position. The working thread is then taken diagonally over the template and down into the 7 o'clock snip, round the back and up in the 8 o'clock snip. And so this pattern of weaving continues, ove to the 2 o'clock position and round the snip and up through the 3 o'clock snip. The framework 'warp' is continued in this way, going diagonally across the top of the card and down and round the back of the card by one snip and up to the right. This is of course perfect for right handed workers and the direction can easily be reversed for those who are dominant with their left hand. When the working thread comes round again to the 12 oclock position, it may look as though something has gone wrong as the 6 o'clock position is empty - this is however as it needs to be. The warp weaving then continues around the template a second time, finishing with working thread coming up through the 6 o'clock snip. At this point the back of the template should look like this. It is important that the wraps around the back are reasonably tight and even, as this will ensure more even weaving and gathering at the end. Then the needle comes into play. A tapestry needle is a good option and the slightly rounded point will avoid splitting the yarn - choose a size that is comfortable to work in your hand and has an eye which is easy to thread with your working yarn. The first weave is behind the 2 threads that sit in the 12 o'clock snip - this will be the one and only time that you weave behind the threads in a single snip. The next weave is back under the 12 o'clock threads and also under the 11 o'clock threads. For those who are left handed you can work in the opposite direction and move to the right. The weaving continues in this way going back under the warp threads immediately to the left of the working thread and ALSO under the next pair of warp threads to the immediete left. The weaving progresses quickly with a sock weight yarn and it is easy to see and correct any misweavings. The weaving is continued and when you run out of thread, simply start a new yarn and weave in the tail of the old yard again a spoke for a couple of rounds. The weaving should then continue right to the edge of the card until it is impossible to fit any more weaving with the working thread. The weaving can now be removed from the template by turning over and pulling off the securing loops around the snips with the point of your needle. Then take the working thread and pass the needle through each of the 12 loops in turn and once again through the first loop. The working thread now becomes a drawstring and after pulling a little the emerging shape is stuffed - I used a firm wool for mine. I found it best to leave the tail from the start of the button pulled out of the gathered button and I used this to tie the working thread tighly against. And one finished woolly button - I really liked the soft fuzziness and the way the variaged sock yarn colours fell. The thread possibilites for making Yorkshire buttons are many, with the general rule that the working yarn should be smooth. I also enjoying using variagated perle thread in different weights and my students that I shared this technique with did too - particularly for Yorkshire button earrings! This techique can also be used to cover flat button forms or old unintersting buttons that might otherwise not see the light of day. One of my students Meg, so enjoyed the weaving and covering old buttons that she continued until she had sufficient buttons to create this marvellous picture - just perfect for a technique that gave so many of us pleasure and a sense of simple achievement working with our hands. And a few summers later on a wonderful return trip to the Orkney Isles, I adapted this most enjoyable technique on broken limpet shells - I have a feeling that this simple pleasure will morph into yet another creation along the way :)
Explore YooLaDesign's 693 photos on Flickr!
In Our Tools, Ourselves, we get to know fiber artisans of all walks, ages, styles and skill levels, by way of their tools. For more on the series, read the introduction. I’m enamored of Seattle photographer Kathy Cadigan‘s taste in knitting. (You’ll recall her Jón hat. See also Monochrome Tolt, Pembroke, Volcanic Maren, etc.) And […]
Simple pasta threading activity for toddlers to do using play dough and straws. Great for fine motor development and hand/eye coordination. Lots of fun too.
Errata available: bluemoonfiberarts.com
Authentic Vietnamese Egg Roll (Cha Gio) recipe! Crunchy egg rolls with a flavorful filling made with shrimp, ground pork, bean thread noodles, wood ear mushrooms and veggies. Serve with Nouc Mam sauce!
Don't stress over the tension dials on your sewing machine. Find out when and how to set and adjust thread tension.
Pentagon Box / Bag Tutorial DIY
We had beautiful weather this weekend, so I pulled out the supplies to make a toilet paper roll bird feeder craft and asked the kids if they wanted to make them. I got one taker. As
Welcome to Technique Tutorial Tuesday. This is a long post so sit back, relax, and read awhile! Today I will be presenting an introduction to Free-Motion Quilting (FMQ for short). I will cover topi…
For pattern support, please find the questions thread here Kallias is an open front cardigan and is worked seamlessly from the top down. Knitting starts with the back part of the neckband. Stitches are then picked up from the long edge of the neckband to work the back part of the yoke first. Increases along the slanted shoulder “seam” are worked on both RS and WS rows. Once the final back width is reached, the back is worked back and forth in slip stitch ribbing to underarm. Stitches for the fronts (left and right front) are picked up from the shoulder “seam” to work the fronts back and forth to underarm. At underarm both fronts and back are joined to work the body top down back and forth to the short row shaped bottom hem. As the front ribbing is built in, there is no finishing required. Sleeve stitches are picked up around the arm openings to work the sleeves in Stockinette stitch top down in rounds to the cuffs. Yarn Fonty FADO (137 yards (125 m)/50g); shown in color 661 approximately 1094 (1132, 1201, 1269, 1369)(1423, 1504, 1595, 1674) yds/ 1000 (1035, 1098, 1160, 1251)(1301, 1375, 1458, 1530) m Needles US 7 (4.5 mm) 40” (100 cm) circular needle and DPNs (or longer circular needle for magic loop) for picking up stitches and sleeve ribbing. US 8 (5 mm) 40” (100 cm) circular needle and DPNs (or longer circular needle for magic loop) for body and sleeves. Gauge 18 sts x 28 rows = 4” (10 cm) square in Stockinette stitch on larger needle after blocking. 20 sts x 30 rows = 4” (10 cm) in slip stitch ribbing on larger needle after blocking (slightly stretched widthwise) Sizes 1 (2, 3, 4, 5)(6, 7, 8, 9) finished back width at underarm: 23.75 (24.5, 25.5, 27, 28.5)(29.5, 31, 32.5, 34.25)” 59.5 (61.5, 63.5, 67.5, 71.5)(73.5, 77.5, 81.5, 85.5) cm To fit bust: 32 (36, 40, 44, 47)(51, 54, 57, 60)” 81 (91.5, 101.5, 112, 119.5)(129.5, 137, 145, 152.5) cm Sample is size 1 on a 31.5” bust Materials Stitch holders or waste yarn, 2 removable stitch markers, 4 stitch markers, tapestry needle, blocking tools. yarn substitution ideas: DRN Gilliatt, BT Tones, BT Shelter, dLana Lana Merina Autóctona, Patons Classic Wool Worsted, Erika Knight Wild Wool … please have a look at the “yarn ideas” for inspiration
Have you ever been exploring a forest emerald green, or hiked a frosted mountain snowy and breathtaking and wished you could capture those colors, to keep with you forever, dared to dream you could even wear them or sink deep into a soft blanket or sweater resplendent of these colors of your dreams
Add natural beauty to your tabletop from the lush forests of Nicaragua. Made by women artisans using fallen pine needles which are bound into tight coils and tied with colorful thread. Your purchase helps preserve their timeless artistic heritage. Set of 4 Pine needles gathered, not harvested 4" diameter (10 cm) Handmade in & fairly traded from Nicaragua
Well it's the end of a busy week! I don't know about you, but I'm pooped! But I'm pleased to say we've had some gorgeous, sunny days here in N.I. this week, and there's a lovely Autumn feel to the air! As always, the things I've been working on this week I can't show you yet (soon I promise!), so I'm going to give you a wee tute on how to use up every last wee bit of fabric shavings, you know those bits that end up all over your cutting mat after trimming blocks and hsts? We'll here's a cool way to turn them into a new type of fabric. As far as I know this product doesn't have an official name - I learnt it at college and it wasn't called anything then, but if you know the official name of this craft, please let me know. 1. Save up your fabric shavings & wee bits of offcuts that are too small to be useful (you can also cut up wee bits of fluffy wool, ribbon, sparkly threads etc.). Bigger pieces will need to be snipped down smaller. 2. Take a piece of plain sheeting/calico and lay a load of shavings on top. You can colour code your savings as I have done here, or have a multi-coloured mess! Make sure it's thick enough to cover the backing fabric, but not too thick to sew over. 3. Lay a piece of water soluble fabric over the top and pin/sew round the edges. This stuff is really cool - you can get different brands in a craft shop or online. I've used Avalon Water Soluble Embroidery Fabric by Madeira. 4. Now sew, sew, sew over the top of the w.s.fabric, either by free motion quilting or straight & wavy lines all over. Try not to leave any big gaps where the shavings can later escape from. 5. When you have stitched this to within an inch of its life, take the pins out and under a luke warm tap or in a sink/basin, allow the w.s.fabric to melt away (it goes a bit slimy as it melts off so rinse it well). 6. Give your new piece of fabric a good squeeze to get the water out and then allow it to dry on the radiator. 7. When dry, draw your desired shapes on the back and cut out. If you want to, sew more stitching on top to highlight details, for example veins in leaves, or sew on beads, sequins etc. 8. You can now use your fabric shapes to embellish/decorate cards, cushions, make letters or Christmas decorations etc. etc. The possibilities are endless! Another way to use this wonderful water soluble fabric is to roughly sketch a shape on to it & then put it into an embroidery hoop. Repeated sewing and shading with thread will close all the gaps, so that when you take the fabric off the hoop and dissolve the w.s.fabric you are left with a completely embroidered shape. Have fun & let your imagination run wild!
English PDF download Level Intermediate +++ XS cropped in KATIA “Cotton Cashmere” col 55 - 50 g/ 155 m XL medium by @alex_meyss - KATIA “Cotton Cashmere” - 50 g/ 155 m M cropped by @la_miss_knitter - WE ARE KNITTERS “Easy Breezy Yarn” col Olive - 100 g/212 m M medium by @caitlinlanssens – BC
Approx. measurements of planter: 0.98" (2.5 cm) height, 1.1” (2.8 cm) diameter. This item made from eco air-dry clay. You can use this item as an air freshener for the car (just adding your favorite scent oil on the wool ball) or like a pot (with a removable faux plant). When purchase, you get: 1) One Goose with threads for hanging and a removable wool ball. Also, you can order this item in the color and size you need. To do this, just write us a message indicating the desired color and size and we will create for you a special listing. 2) Neat packaging (we pack this item as safely as possible so that it travels safely from our workshop to your home). However, if your order arrived damaged, you should write to us, and we will do our best to solve this problem. Also, you can order gift wrapping and add a gift message to your order. This item comes from a smoke-free home. This product is 100% handmade therefore, sizes and colors may vary slightly. Please note that this product is made of air-dried clay, which means that it is not able to retain a lot of liquid (or constantly contained in water). Also, we provide good conditions and discounts for our wholesale buyers (just write us a message with the specified number of items you need, and we will be able to offer you our options). Thank you for your trust in our product. Best regards, Alfiggery workshop (Alexandra)
This tutorial came about when I was asked about the thread I used when I made the watering can. It's crochet thread, Coats & Clark, Classic. The miniaturist wanted to weave baskets with it. I suggested using waxed linen, 2 ply. The wicker furniture makers use waxed linen, 3 ply. I purchased some 2 ply months ago wanting to weave baskets but never got around to it. The miniaturist said she couldn't get the 2 ply so I thought I could do the same thing with painted crochet thread. This is the result of a question from a miniaturist and my experimentation. I hope you enjoy it. There's my ball of crochet thread with Delta's Ceramcoat Autumn Brown and Apple Barrel's Golden Brown. I used what I had on hand. The brown glass stain is used to coat the baskets after they are finished, that's just an option. You will need 26 gauge covered wire. I have the kind that is wound with thread. Sometimes it's a little tedious to work with because the thread will unwind. There is a different kind, Fibre-Craft makes it and it has more of a coating. I am told it's easier to work with. She buys it from www.createforless.com. We are going to use mat board for the bottom of the basket. Choose a "basket" looking color and paint the crochet thread and one piece of the covered wire. I just dip my finger and thumb in the paint and run the thread through and hang it up to dry. I cut the thread 24 inches (70 cm) long. It seems an easy length to handle. Four pieces should do for a little basket. Don't forget to paint one piece of the covered wire, too. The next thing to do is find a mould. The ones I used for this project are a cap from my hair spray bottle, I cut the bottom off a Reese's Pieces candy container and I made a mould from odds and ends of Fimo. The moulds should be at least 1 inch (2.5 cm) tall. I like to use plastic because the tacky glue will not stick and I can wipe the glue off. Remember 1 inch equals 1 foot for sizing the basket. You don't want to make the basket too big. You have to fill it after you've made it. A big basket takes more to fill! I made the bottoms from mat board. I traced around the Reese's Pieces container, then drew another line about an 1/8" (4mm) inside the original line. I cut on the new line. For the other moulds I used my circle and oval templates to measure for the bottoms. You want the mat board bottoms to be smaller than the bottom of the mould. Cut the mat board bottom out. See how it's smaller than the bottom of the hair spray cap. We are going to drill holes into the edge of the mat board. (I suppose you could drill into the flat face of the mat board and bend the wire out from the mat board, but I think that would create bulk.) You see my little pin vise drill on the table. This is a good little tool. You will need an UNEVEN amount of holes. We want as many spokes, that's the 26 gauge wire, as we can get into the mat board edge. The circle you see is 7/16" (6mm) in diameter. I have 17 pieces of wire to stick into it. Cut the wire into 1 inch (2.5 cm) pieces, cut one piece 2 1/2" to 3" (63mm to 77mm), that's your handle. After trying to devise a method for measuring where the holes should be I gave up and just started marking free hand. Remember you must have an uneven number. Also, it's better to error on having too many spokes than too few. Use a "T" pin to pierce a hole in the edge. Now, drill a hole, removing paper so that the wire will have a place to be. If you skip this the mat board will be hard to keep together. It will split apart. When you drill, hold the mat board between yours fingers and thumb, squeezing it, almost. You will feel the drill. So, this is what you need to do: Pierce a hole with the "T" pin, drill out the hole, dip the end of the wire into YELLOW WOOD GLUE, get a good amount on the wire and put the wire into the hole. If you are using the wound thread type of covered wire I found if I twisted the wire in the direction that the thread was wound it helped. This twisting kept the thread from unwinding. I've got my first wire in, it's the handle. You see all of my marks? Go around the circle, piercing, drilling, dipping and inserting at every other mark. Be sure you are holding tightly to the circle. When you have half the wire in, place the assembly onto your table and press hard to seal the mat board together. Now, begin again, piercing, drilling, dipping and inserting until you have all the wire in. Press on the mat board again to seal. I like to leave this to dry, if not over night at least several hours. If you don't let this dry adequately the wire spokes will twist while you are weaving causing you headaches. I wanted to show you how the mat board sealed around the wire spokes. After your bottom/spokes assembly is dry you can paint it a "basket" color. Leave this to dry. I don't understand why this picture chose to load in sideways but it did. I can't seem to get it turned so we will just have to be satisfied with it! Center the bottom of the basket onto your mould. Fold the wire spokes down around the mould. You will have to do this at the edge of your table because of the long handle wire. Lift your basket off the mould and tacky glue the end of the painted crochet thread to the bottom. Press the basket back onto the mould. Begin to weave, over, under, over and under. Pull tightly and the basket will begin to grip the mould before you know it. Second row begun. Over, under, over and under . . . . You see, I haven't even gotten up the side and the basket is staying on the mould by itself. I am holding the hair spray cap. Try to keep your weaving even. Every so often set the basket up at eye level and check. If you find you are high on one side use your tweezers to push the thread down. This will only move 2 rows at the most, so check often so you can keep everything looking nice. Doesn't hurt to unweave if you need to neaten things up a bit. You are going to run out of thread. Weave under with the thread that's running out. That's the original thread end you see on the right. Place a new end behind the spoke your ending thread is coming out of and just continue to weave. You will trim the ends off when you finish the basket. I usually weave until I have a 1/2 inch (13 or 14mm) high sides. This is a 6 inch (15.5 cm) basket in life-size. I don't like them too deep, then I have to fill it! See my ends where I started new thread? Carefully PUSH the basket off the mould. If you pull, the basket comes off and then you squeeze the basket misshaping it. If you do this, put the basket back on the mould to reshape. Trim the ends of the thread close to the weaving. Trim off the spokes close to the weaving. Don't leave any wire sticking up. Don't cut your handle off. Use the painted wire for the rim. Bend the wire around the mould. Cut the wire, leaving a little extra, maybe a 1/4" (6 or 7mm). Slip the wire off the mould and straighten it. Apply tacky glue to about 1/2" (13 or 14mm) to start. Start winding the thread around the wire. Continue to wrap the thread until about 1/2" (13 to 14mm) is left of the wire. Apply tacky glue to this end and wrap the thread to the end of the wire. Bend the wire rim around the mould to shape. Place the basket back on the mould and apply tacky glue to the edge. Press the rim down on top of the basket. Trim the ends so they butt, apply glue to the ends. The rim is glued on the outside of the handle. Hold this until the glue tacks and is holding the rim to the basket. Carefully push the basket off the mould. Use small clips to hold the rim together until the rim is dry. To get the length and shape of your handle right, find a cylinder to shape it around. I am using a 7/8" (22mm) dowel here but you could use anything around the house. Trim the handle to the top of the rim. I threaded the crochet thread onto a large eyed needle, a tapestry needle. I want to sew a "X" at the base of the handle. I inserted the needle from the inside of the basket and came out right under the rim. I crossed the thread over and behind the handle. There's the "X". Apply tacky glue to the end of the thread inside the basket. Don't cut the thread that the needle is on. Start wrapping the handle with the crochet thread. Wrap the thread until you have about 1/2" (13 to 14mm) left. Apply tacky glue to the wire and finish wrapping the handle. The handle has been wrapped, don't cut the thread. I didn't even take the needle off while I wrapped the handle. I am going to need it to sew another "X". Apply tacky glue to the rim and press the handle down onto the rim. When the handle has dried sew another "X" on this side of the basket. Trim off the extra thread and apply tacky glue to the end. Touch up any paint you might have missed. I have some little plastic clamps I bought when I first go into miniatures. I know Hobby Builders still carry them. They come in handy for this type of thing. This is the basket made with the Reese's Pieces candy container. These are the baskets made from my Fimo mould. This is the basket made from the cap of my hair spray bottle. I am showing the difference between the baskets that I painted with the glass stain. I painted BOTH baskets with the golden brown, I painted the one on the right with the glass stain, too. I really like this one. This is also showing the glass stain effect. Both baskets were painted with the autumn brown and the one on the right was painted with the glass stain, too. I hope you have fun trying this out. I think you be very happy with your finished baskets. I will have the item number for the Fibre-Craft wire for you with the next post. I have something else to share, how to make a fly swatter. I will try to have it posted tomorrow. Have fun, expand on it, make it better, just keep making minis!!!
Making coil baskets has been on my do list for a couple of years and recently I finally took some time to have a little fun putting own twist on this process! You can make a coil basket out any thick rope or twine, you can even use scraps of fabric wrapped around the rope for something really colorful. But I decide to keep it simple and use rope (out of everything I tried I liked using cloth line the best). To begin, coil the rope. Using a machine, zig zag stitch the coil together and keep coiling and stitching. I spend lots of time sewing heavy duty and non-traditional materials on my machine- I typically use a denim needle for these kinds of projects. Once you have the base of the basket you can create the sides by tilting the coiled rope as up as you sew. Continue sewing until the basket is desired size...SO EASY!! I used colorful thread to add color in my baskets, I also painted my rope. I used both spray ink and acrylic paint to cover sections of the rope (time consuming but totally worth it)! I also painted the entire basket with acrylic paint (it took two coats) and then used my white paint pen to add pattern over the top. I create and experiment with all kinds of simple materials and DIY projects but this by far is one of my favorites! The entire process was really addicting and I know I will be making more.
If you have ever tried to thread a needle and failed, you may have wished you had one of these. It is not hard to use a needle threader, but it can be near impossible to thread a needle without one sometimes. Just push the needle threader wire through the eye of the needle. Slide
As the end of summer and the beginning of fall approaches, I am so excited! COOLER WEATHER! It makes me actually want to move around again. The coolness permeates the house through the open windows in the mornings. It is invigorating, and I think, 'What will I do today?' Now don't get me wrong. I'm not so full of spunk that I am going to clean all the rooms in the house today, or get that huge project finished, or anything funny as that. But I do see some progress in my work, which to me, is quite exciting! Sewing is one of my favorite pastimes. Collecting sewing notions is something that I just cannot stop doing! I decided to pull together some pretties and show them off this week. Below, packages of Silhouette trim were a recent find that are going in the 'keep' collection! I hope you are all having a lovely week! And that cool breezes and refreshing days are part of your future! Take care and thank you so much for visiting me! Blessings, Doni
Apply a lining to a curved neckline and an armhole edge for an elegant couture technique.
Got some spare time this winter? Why not spend it earning good karma by building one of these 69 unique diy bird feeders?
I'll show you how to make an easy thread catcher to hold all of your thread tails. This post contains a free pattern and tutorial for a thread catcher.
Knit Campfire Shawl Free Knitting Patterns
