Crocheting can be tough! Which is exactly why you should use these crochet hacks for beginners. Crocheting just got a whole lot easier.

A provisional cast-on is a way to cast on stitches using waste yarn as a temporary cast on so that it can be easily unraveled after the knitting is complete, leaving you with live stitches which you can then place on your needle. I use the crochet provisional cast on often, most frequently when working hats with deep b

Melon, Egg, Herb, Square - what's the difference? A Melon basket uses the bottom of the hoop and the rims of the basket to use as a guide for where the ribs need to be woven. No longer than the bottom hoop and coming up to the rim in a half circle like the shape of a melon, hence the name. An egg basket was used for g

A fabulous resource for all your crochet questions. Tips & tricks to make your crocheting life just that little bit easier & more enjoyable.

French knitting is easy and fun. Anyone can learn, all you need is yarn and a bobbin. It's a really mindful craft to do as an adult, but it's also a lovely thing to learn with a child and a great introduction to knitting. I used this tutorial here to start me off. You can buy a bobbin here and we highly recommend buying a crochet hook to to help with hooking over your stitches. As with learning any new skill, your first few attempts might not be as good as you hoped. After giving it a go myself, I’ve compiled a list of things that helped keep my stitches neat. Read the tips and tricks to improve your french knitting from the start! Hints & Tips Even with a good tutorial your french knitting may be messy at first, but don't give up - embrace the process! Read these tips to speed up your progress... Use cotton or polyester yarn, not wool or acrylic as their fibres are more likely to get stuck or pulled. This also applies to any fuzzy thread of any material, the added friction of the fuzzy fibres will make the yarn pull more. A tightly spun yarn or jersey is ideal. We recommend a crochet hook (around 2-4 mm depending on the size of your yarn and spool) to help you pull over your stitches. Although you are using a crochet hook to knit, a metal darning needle is easiest to thread the spool with. This is because it has a wide eye hole but the metal has a little extra weight which makes it easier to fall through the hole. Try to keep your loops loose so that you don’t have to struggle wedging your crochet hook into the loops. You can pull the yarn coming through the bottom of the hole to bring the knit tube downward through the hole instead of clogging up at the top. This also helps keep the tension, and therefore stitches, even.

I have made this wool wash, rather than buying it, and it works brilliantly. It leaves the woollens really soft and smelling lovely, and I also use it when I am wanting to freshen up sheets and doonas etc, and for sterilising these items while they wash. It's also great for towels. I have had this 1st batch for at least 6 months, and I freshened it up a week or so ago by adding some hot water to it, as it hard hardened up and was becoming hard to scoop out. It is now really good again, and should last many more uses before I need to make any more. This is the recipe: Home Made Wool Wash 200ml methylated spirits 300g lux pure soap flakes or grated laundry soap 100ml eucalyptus oil Mix all ingredients and store in a wide necked jar. Use 1- 2 tablespoons per wash. Mix with hot water and then add to warm wash.

I don’t know about you, but I dislike color changes in crochet-in-the-round intensely. I just hate (a strong word, I know, but still) the way the new color “bites” into the old color making a jagge...

If you get a run in garter or seed stitch, it is easy to fix, as long as you keep your wits about you. (And if you already know how to do this, scroll to the bottom of this post for two shortcuts.) Garter stitch, seed stitch Garter stitch and seed stitch don't look much alike. Yet if you go up a column in either fabric, you'll discover that column-wise, both have the same identical structure: a stack of alternating knits and purls. Row-wise, the fabrics differ--in garter stitch, every stitch along a row is the same, while in seed stitch, the rows alternate just like the columns: alternating knits and purls. The upshot of this is that, although we have to establish the foundation stitch of any run-out column opposite-wise in each fabric, yet once we get started, we can fix single-column runs in each fabric by the exact same method, since column-wise they are identical. Establishing the foundation stitch Before we get started on the actual process, there is going to be a LOT of confusion if we lose sight of a home-truth about knitting: a loop waiting to be worked is neither a purl nor a knit. That's right. A loop just sitting there has the capacity to be either a knit OR a purl. It is not until a second loop is DRAWN THROUGH IT on the following row that the loop becomes transformed--frozen into position as a knit or a purl stitch. (If this confuses you, you might want to consider reviewing this post.) A loop sitting at the bottom of a run-out ladder shares this characteristic. It is neither a knit nor a purl...yet! It is not until we draw the next ladder rung through that bottom loop that the loop becomes transformed into a knit or a purl stitch. Another important thing to remember about stitches is that knit stitches have their heads popped onto the BACK of the fabric, while purl stitches have their heads popped onto the FRONT of the fabric. Stated otherwise, it does not really matter what lays at the foot of any loop. It is the top of the loop--its head, which determines whether a stitch is a knit or a purl. (For further information about head orientation, consider reviewing this post.) The consequence of all this is as follows. The first step for correcting a run in garter stitch or in seed stitch is examine the two stitches immediately neighboring the lowest loop of the run out column, in order to determine whether the lowest loop ought to be transformed into a knit or a purl. As this relates to the diagram, you can see that we are working in garter stitch, because in garter stitch, each stitch along any one row is the same as its neighbors. The orange loop sitting forlornly at the bottom of the ladder has two immediate neighbors which are knit stitches (dark green), and this lets us know that it, too, must be transformed into that same kind of stitch--a knit stitch. (By contrast, if the fabric were seed stitch, the fact of two dark-green neighbor knit stitches would mean that the orange loop ought to be transformed into the opposite of its neighbors--a purl stitch.) This is a garter stitch fabric--every stitch in any row is the same type as its neighboring stitches. Therefore, the orange loop at the bottom of the run must be transformed into a knit stitch, so that it is same type of stitch as its two neighboring stitches (dark green), which are knit stitches. (You can tell that the two dark green stitches are knit stitches by the fact that their heads are popped onto the back of the knit fabric.) Here's how to transform a loop into a knit stitch Slip the stitches on the knitting needles along, transferring them from one needle to another as necessary until the run is between the needles, as shown in the diagram. To transform a loop into a knit stitch, hold a crochet hook on the FRONT of the fabric. Insert the hook into the lowest loop (orange) from front to back, as shown. Next, reach up and hook the next rung of the ladder (purple). Draw the purple rung through the orange loop. Given the direction of insertion, the act of drawing through the purple ladder will pop the head of the orange loop to the back of the fabric, leaving the arms aligned on the front in a sort of a little "v." In this way, you have transformed the bottom loop of the ladder into a knit. At the same time, the rung doing the transforming--the purple rung which was drawn through--becomes the loop at the bottom of the run, waiting in its turn to be transformed from a loop to a stitch. Insert crochet hook into the orange loop from the front, then draw through the next rung on the ladder (purple). This not only transforms the orange loop into a knit stitch, but also turns the purple rung into the next bottom loop, waiting in its turn to be transformed from a loop into a stitch Here's how to work a loop as a purl stitch In our garter stitch diagram, we started with an orange loop which had to be worked as a knit. As stated previously, garter and seed stitch runs are corrected by creating an alternating stack of knit and purl stitches. Therefore, we know that the next loop after a knit stitch has to be transformed into a purl stitch. So, the next step is to draw through the following rung (brown) in the opposite direction--to work it from back to front, thus transforming the purple loop into a purl. We can double-check that this is correct because in a garter stitch fabric, the bottom loop is to be transformed into the same sort of stitch as its two immediate neighbors, and these stitches (now colored pink) are both purls--their heads are popped to the front of the fabric. Therefore, the brown rung must be drawn through the purple loop in such a manner as to transform the purple loop into a purl stitch. (Again, if the fabric were seed stitch, the fact of two pink neighbor purl stitches would mean that the purple loop ought to be transformed into the opposite of its neighbor stitches--a knit stitch.) Specifically, whenever you need to work a loop at the bottom of a ladder as a purl, here's how: Insert the crochet hook from the back of the fabric, through the purple loop, from back to front, as shown. Then, draw through the next ladder loop (brown), working from back to front. Insert crochet hook into the purple loop from the back, then draw through the next rung on the ladder (brown). This not only transforms the purple loop into a purl stitch, but also turns the brown rung into the next bottom loop, waiting in its turn to be transformed from a loop into a stitch Summary: To transform a loop into a KNIT stitch, insert the crochet hook into the loop from the FRONT and draw through the next ladder rung from that position. To transform a loop into a PURL stitch, insert the crochet hook from the BACK and draw through the next ladder rung from that position (but keep reading down to shortcuts for an easier way!) Repeating the process Keep repeating this process, moving the crochet hook to opposite faces of the fabric and drawing the next ladder rung through the loop below. To get the crochet hook to the other side of the fabric, you've actually got to remove it from the loop you just drew up, pinch that loop with your fingers, put the hook on the other side of the fabric, and insert the hook into the loop you are pinching. Once you have drawn up each new loop to alternate faces of the knit fabric, you will have created a column composed of a stack of alternating knits and purls, as shown in the last diagram, below. final result: an alternating stack of knits and purls Shortcuts I have illustrated the process in the conceptually simplest manner, showing the work as if it were always to be seen from the same side of the fabric. This is fine for a dropped stitch or two, and this orientation makes it easy to understand, I think. However, here are two shortcuts which make this process easier to work if you should happen to have more than a stitch or two to fix. Shortcut 1--fabric flipping Once you have gone through the pinching-neede-switching-and-inserting process two or three times, you will see that it really annoying to have to insert the crochet hook from the back. Luckily, as we all know, the opposite of a purl is a knit. Therefore, when it appears from the front of the fabric that the next stitch ought to be a purl, you will find that it is much easier to flip the fabric around front-to-back instead, so that you are always inserting the crochet hook into the bottom loop from the front, thus transforming the loop into a knit stitch. The back of the knit is a purl, so all is well. Shortcut 2--double ended hook or double-ended latch hook After you have worked a few runs as for shortcut 1, you will discover that even though flipping so that you can always insert from the front is easier than trying to insert from the back, it is still quite annoying to have to continuously remove the crochet hook, only to have to insert it again once the fabric has been flipped. It is at this point that you might wish to consider buying a double-ended crochet hook or a special kind of double-ended latch hook tool called a "seed-stitcher." With a double-ended hook, you can do all the latching-up from the front. This is done by sliding the needle from one end to the other, using opposite hooks alternately, for each stitch to be made. Although this sounds very complicated, it isn't--once you get hold of a double ended hook you will see how much easier this is. Here is a link to a video showing how to use a certain kind of double ended crochet hook called a "fix-a-stitch" and here is another link to a you-tube video by the makers of the "seed-stitcher" double ended latch hook tool, also showing how to do this. The second video shows machine knitting being latched up, but the same technique is used for hand knitting. At 24 seconds, you can see the seed stitcher being pushed through to its other end to make a purl stitch after a knit stitch, at 35 seconds, you can see the seed stitcher being pulled forward to make a knit stitch after a purl stitch. Both the double-ended crochet hook and the double-ended latch hook work in the same manner, although you might find the latch hook easier to use. Good knitting, TK PS: Special thanks to Joan Schrouder who first clued me in to the seed stitcher tool. You have been reading TECHknitting blog on fixing a run in garter stitch, fixing a run in seed stitch

For pretty much every increase you can think of there's a mirror-image counterpart! Here are video tutorials for six methods of knitting paired increases.

“Just one more row.” I’ve thought it myself countless times- only to realize another 20 minutes has gone by without making any move to stop. Regardless of your level of skill, anyone who knits ha…

Sewing tips and tricks for Vinyl, Buttons, & Velcro. Sewing and cutting Straight Lines.

Looking for inspiration, fellow crafters, or a beautiful place to relax with a hook in hand? Check out our list of the 25 best cities for crochet lovers.

They look like mittens, right? But what they really are, is little ovens for fingers. If you have cold fingers, make these. Hidden within, unsuspected by all, is a thick, warm and indescribably soft lining. There are very few things that make me wish to live in Toronto again. But these mittens are definitely one of them. Here there is no call for wearing mittens of any kind, and much less these ones. So mine are all made for my Canadian family, and I dubbed them "Ontario" in their honour, and because they reminded me of winter night hikes across Ontario farmland. I have more mittens made up in other patterns, but I can't show them just yet because they are presents for my folks, and on the very unlikely chance that they will read this blog, I'd better hold off on posting them. The pattern for these is in the Winter 09 issue of Interweave Crochet. They changed the name of them without bothering to tell me about it, and christened them with the unlikely name of "Mischa". "Mischa"? Why? What was wrong with "Ontario"? Do these look like you could play the cello in them? They also decided not to use the tutorial that I sent, so the main reason I'm posting here is to give my poor victims that tutorial. So here we go. You see, we're doing Back Loop Crochet Jacquard with a strand of white and a strand of beige. Only we also have this big hunk of roving hanging there. We'll just let it hang there for a while, meantime we'll be zipping along in our colour pattern. Well, not quite zipping. You kind of have to nudge the roving from your last round down a bit to get it out of the path of your hook. After 5 or 6 (or 7 or even 8) stitches, we're going to catch the roving and attach it to the back of the work. Working in Jacquard, we always insert the hook underneath the secondary strand, right? Now we'll insert it under that AND under the roving, and draw up a loop. This is the loop I drew up. Then I completed the stitch. I've created a "float" on the inside of the work, and because it's such chunky stuff, it becomes a big fluffy puff of insulation. And now, for your own sanity, grab that roving with a free finger, and pull it back out of the way. And then keep crocheting. You only have to hold the roving back for one or two sts, then it will leave you alone. If you have to complete the pickup stitch in the secondary strand, which you will invariably have to do at some point, (Note: I'm assuming you know how to Jacquard or Tapestry Crochet already. If you don't, I'm sorry but you'll have to make yourself an iPod sock or wristband or something in that first, then try this technique, which is a bit trickier.) it's just the same, with one difference. The last step, i.e. pulling the roving back out of the way, should be done before completing the stitch. What I try to avoid is starting a pickup stitch in the secondary strand. If it can't be helped, then I drop the two colours and reverse their position, so that it is no longer the secondary strand. These are pictures from the magazine. I love these pictures!

Here’s a silly little hint for working with a pattern repeat, such as in lace knitting. I used this tool when I was knitting my Little Leaf Shawlette.

Gathering on a Serger To speed up gathering on a sewing project, I simply change the settings on my Janome 1100D Professional Serg...

Explore our guide on common crochet mistakes, offering expert tips and easy-to-follow solutions to help you perfect your crochet skills.

Here you'll learn how to crochet from the very beginning. An easy to follow step-by-step guide. You'll learn how to chain and a basic stitch Single Crochet.

Learn how to Sew the Mattress Stitch for crochet to create an invisible join between two pieces. Easy to understand photo and video tutorial.

Learn how to surface crochet with this surface crochet photo tutorial. Included is my tips and tricks for success with this stitch!

Crochet is a needlework technique that involves creating fabric from yarn or thread using a hook. Whether you are a seasoned crocheter or a complete beginner, the goal of this article is to help you learn how to crochet in under 60 seconds. In this article, we’ll cover all the basic steps you need to […]

Crochet has always been a beloved craft, and it becomes even more enticing during the summer months. There’s something incredibly satisfying about creating your own stylish and comfortable crochet tops that you can wear with pride. If you’re new to crochet or looking for a simple yet delightful summer project, you’ve come to the right […]

Crocheting or knitting with splitty yarn can be a nightmare! But not if you know how! Read my 10 ten tips to save your sanity and it'll be no biggy to work with splitty yarn.

Rules Tips & Tricks for Crochet Designers. How to start designing crochet garments, writing crochet patterns, working with tech editors & pitfalls to avoid.

I have always wanted to learn how to crochet. These 7 amazing crochet patterns for beginners make it super simple. Hats, scarfs, blankets, slippers and more. Crochet for yourself or give as gifts.

Want to turn a stitch pattern into a project but not sure how many chains you need to start? This guide will walk you through the process step-by-step.

Free Crochet Quiz - Test your crochet knowledge within 3 minutes with fun and interactive questions to inspire your new projects.

Start your crochet journey by mastering the basic crochet stitches. These videos will guide you through each step.

Love to travel and to crochet? What crochet supplies can you take through TSA? Read this comprehensive guide to traveling with crochet.

Looking for some beginner crochet tips? Look no further. These are the 17 things you need to avoid when you're learning to crochet...

In this Crochet How To, I teach you how to do a Clean Fasten Off. Fastening off this way gives you a cleaner edge for your amigurumi.

Learn how to do a turning chain crochet & find out how many turning chains for basic crochet stitches. Easy tutorial & definition.