There are two different methods for single crochet decrease, but for amigurumi the invisible decrease is my absolute favourite. Read more.

Invisible finish or in other words Invisible fasten off is a crochet technique to join stitches together and fasten off the yarn usually when crocheting in round. Traditional method to end the round is to join last stitch of the round with top of first stitch using slip stitch. Then to fasten off you cut the yarn,...

The crochet cast-on method creates a really neat edge that resembles a chain cast-off edge. Because of this, this cast-on method is sometimes known as the cast-off cast-on method. When Should You Use...

By now we have talked about rounds, cylinders and coins, some of the basic and fundamental shapes you need to know how to crochet and understand how are done if you wish to make your first amigurum…

Attaching amigurumi pieces is one of the most complicated things for beginners. In this tutorial I am showing two different ways to sew parts together.

Do you knit or crochet curled up with your favorite television show? When we first caught up with Outlander: The Series on Starz, we were hooked, in more ways than one.

The pictures below show how to embroider the mouth of a doll. Small doll: Big doll: I learned this technique from Jaimai.

The crochet cast-on method creates a really neat edge that resembles a chain cast-off edge; it is sometimes known as the cast-off cast-on method.

So you've been crocheting for a while now, and you'd like to get yourself off the printed page and into making up your own designs. You want to create rather than just read. It's easy enough to make up your own designs. The crochet you...

I have been receiving some e-mails recently from people asking how to read amigurumi patterns. I always assumed it was straight forward enough, but I often forget what it was like when I first started…

What we like the least as knitters is having to join one yarn ball to another with bothersome knots, which later show on our projects. That’s why in the We…

Learn this great way to join yarn in knitting or crochet. It's secure and another way to avoid having to weave in ends.

Learn the steps you need to take to start designing your own amigurumi. I also share some top tips I’ve learned on my own journey as an amigurumi crochet designer.

Coraline is one of my first doll patterns. This pattern has been revised and is now easier to make, for the updated and easier pattern cl...

Whether you are new to amigurumi or you've made you're fair share, this post is intended to provide helpful tips to learning the joyous techniques of the trade! We will cover common language used in amigurumi patterns along with photos to help you learn the basics. My goal here was to make this a resource that you can come to anytime you're met with something that seems unfamiliar in amigurumi. So, it's kind of lengthy, feel free to PIN this to your favorite board so you can refer back to it anytime! I absolutely love questions! If I don't know the answer I enjoy researching it so I can learn it too! Joining the Grace and Yarn Crochet Group on Facebook is a great way to reach out with your questions (or to share what you've made and your favorite go-to patterns!). Amigurumi is usually worked in the round, meaning you won't join each round unless otherwise noted. You will want to use stitch markers to mark either the first or last round as you go so you don't lose your place. They can be purchased or you can use a scrap piece of yarn, bobby pin or safety pin! When you are stuffing be sure to stuff it firmly (you are working to find the point just before the stitches start to stretch). Over time your stuffing will settle and 'squish' down, stuffing firmly to begin with help it to stay firm! Check out this tutorial for additional stuffing tips! If you are new to amigurumi and have any questions about what materials to use, read this post here to see my favorites! This post may contain affiliate links, please click here for more info. Thank you for supporting Grace and Yarn! Below are some of the common abbreviations and terms you are likely to come across in amigurumi patterns. US Crochet Abbreviations MC - Magic Circle SC - Single Crochet SC INC - Single Crochet Increase (complete 2 single crochets into one stitch) HDC - Half Double Crochet HDC INC - Half Double Crochet Increase (complete 2 half double crochets into one stitch) DC - Double Crochet DC INC - Double Crochet Increase (complete 2 double crochets into one stitch) INV DEC - Invisible Decrease Rep - Repeat Sl St - Slip Stitch Ch - Chain Blo - Back loop only Flo - Front loop only YO - Yarn Over Joining Legs in Amigurumi To create an amigurumi in a standing position a lot of patterns will join the legs together with a chain. This creates a bridge to connect the legs together and allows you to then continue crocheting to form the body. Here's a step by step video tutorial in both left and right handed versions! Right Handed Left Handed Magic Circle A magic circle (also called an adjustable loop) is the most common way to start amigurumi. 1. Leaving about a 4 inch tail wrap the yarn into a circle as in the photos below. 2. Hold the loop by placing your fingers over the part where the working yarn crosses over the tail. 3. Insert your hook into the circle, yarn over, pull through and chain 1 4. You're magic circle is now ready to start as your pattern instructs (ex: if round one says 6 SC you will complete 6 SC around the loop) 5. Pull your tail tight to close Invisible Decrease This is the preferred way to decrease in amigurumi, it keeps the decrease tight and avoids the 'bump' of a regular SC decrease. An invisible decrease happens over two stitches, insert your hook into the front loop of the first stitch and then into the front loop of the second stitch (you will have 3 loops on your hook), yarn over, pull through two loops (you will have 2 loops left on your hook), yarn over again and pull through all loops on the hook. You've just made an invisible decrease! Invisible Color Join When changing colors it can have a jagged look because we are working in rounds. This method helps the colors change smoothly. When you are completing the last stitch before you are instructed to change colors you will complete the first half of the stitch with your old color and finish the stitch with your new color. Meaning, you will insert your hook into your stitch, yarn over with the old color and pull through, now drop your old color and use your new color to yarn over and finish the stitch by pulling through all loops on your hook. You now have your new color on your hook. I like to tie off my old color here if I'm not carrying it to change again, (like in Mia and Marshall the Frog). As you start your next round, complete the first stitch as a slip stitch instead of a sc. When you come back around to start your next round be sure to sc into your slip stitch as a regular stitch. Above I mentioned how you can carry colors when changing often. I used this in my frog patterns to create their striped outfits. Because, I was changing back and forth quite often that would create a LOT of loose ends. Instead, I would drop the yarn, change to the new one and when it was time to change again I would drop and go back to the color I had. I continued this all the way up and then tied off when I was completely done. This saves time, which is quite nice! Here's an example of the inside of Marshall the Frog, you can see where I carried the yarn and only had to tie off at the end! Front and Back Loop Only This is usually used in the feet or bodies of amigurumi. In a foot it helps it to have a flat bottom to work up (like in this cow pattern). I also like to use it to attach to later and make a skirt or ruffle along a dress (see Holly the Honey Bear for an example. The pattern uses back loop only on one row of the body, we later attach to it and make the ruffled part of her dress!) When crocheting, the front loops are closest to you and the back loops are away from you (on the inside of the round) Tension This section is short and sweet. You want a tight tension so that your stitches are close together, if they are loose they will have gaps that your stuffing will show through. I like to have my hook help control my tension, we don't want your hands to hurt from trying to crochet really tightly. I recommend starting with a 3.5mm (or one close in size if you don't have this on hand). If you feel your stitches are too loose go down a size (maybe try a 3mm or 2.75mm). If your stitches are too tight (meaning you are having trouble getting your hook into the stitch) try a 4mm hook. Once you find your favorite hook size to use you will find yourself reaching for it every time! These recommendations are based on using #4 worsted weight yarn. You can also use chunky yarn or cotton yarn, but because they have a different thickness you will want to adjust. Example, I use 4-4.5mm for chunky yarn and 3mm for cotton! Sewing Parts Together I like to use the whip stitch to sew on my limbs and heads. A lot of you have shared that you enjoy it too! Most patterns will have this noted, but it is good to leave a long tail when fastening off (we're talking probably 12 inches long) to use later for sewing that part on. As I mentioned in my materials for amigurumi post, the bent tip needles really work wonders to get into the stitches! Using pins to hold each part in place can help you line them up where you want them, this is completely optional. Example with the picture above we're sewing on the arm, you would insert your hook into a stitch on the body and then into a stitch across the top of the arm, pull through. Complete this across the arm to secure. I sometimes will go back across to add extra strength. Secure with a knot and then push your needle through the body and bring the yarn out the other side, cut the string and it's done! Crochet Eyes and Plastic Safety Eyes Most amigurumi are made with plastic safety eyes (some with plastic safety noses)! These are super easy to install. They come as two parts, the eye and the washer. Insert your eyes into the desired stitches (move them around if needed to get the look you are going for, once the washers are on there's no getting them back off to move them!). If you are embroidering eyelashes be sure to do so before attaching your eyes, it will be much easier to have them lined up! Your washer will have a curve to it, you will want the curve to cup your eye to be installed properly. Push the washer tightly to bring together (you will hear some clicks). Plastic safety eyes are recommended for children over 3, if you would like an alternative I have a tutorial for crochet eyes here! I hope this has been a helpful tutorial! If you're looking for a pattern to get started check out the Cuddly Caterpillar, she's great for beginners! What is your favorite tip for making amigurumi? Have I missed something you would like added? Leave a comment below!

Short Rows tend to strike fear into the hearts of first-timers, but, like all knitting…

Video tutorial for how to wind a perfect yarn cake by hand, with just a simple tool. Handy tip for organizing leftover yarns.

If you have arthritis, carpal tunnel, or sore hands, then these hand stretches for knitters and crocheters could help you enjoy your crafting time again!

My newest pattern with The McCall Pattern Company is casual and whimsical with a great asymmetric hemline option. M7413 is a long tunic-style top. Make the

Do you have crochet project overwhelm? Flip-flopping between projects can make it hard to keep track of all the important details. A crochet project planner will help you get organized once and for all. I go through all the types of crochet planners, digital, and paper, to help you find the planner best for you.

**Unfortunately this pattern is no longer available** The pattern’s author’s site has been discontinued. This weekend we are taking a trip back to Wilmington for Trisden’s little cousin’s birthday. He’s turning 5 this year which I cannot believe! His cute little birthday invitation indicates he is into dinosaurs which is so exciting! These prehistoric creatures...

Foundation Single Crochet, that is. In the years since I began using the Fsc as an integral part of my designs, I’ve worried about why many who try the Fsc are having so much trouble with it…

I wanted to share how I make the hair for my amigurumi. I always wished that someone had shared this information when I was first getting started, and I searched high and low for a couple of months before deciding...

This adorable little amigurumi (about nine inches tall) is from a free pattern offered by Owlishly, which you can get here: 5-23-20203 Sadly this seller is no longer in business But Magdalena has a secret! I've been wondering if the same head-jointing technique used in cloth doll making would work for a crochet doll, and the answer is YES! As you can see from the pictures above, Magdalena can move her head around, and this joint is super-easy. No need for buttons, acrylic eyes, or teddy bear joints, just a very firmly crocheted and stuffed head and a slight modification to the body in the neck area, and you have it made :-) Start by making your doll with a separate head. Leave the bottom of the head open, about the size of a dime, instead of closing it. Crochet the head very tightly, and stuff very firmly. This is key to making this technique work. Make the body starting at the neck, and work two or three narrow rounds that will fit tightly into the head opening when the neck is stuffed. I start from the neck so that I can stuff it very firmly. The rest of the body you can follow whatever instructions you have. Thread a very long dollmaking needle with a double strand of your body yarn. Starting at the top of the head, insert the needle straight through and come out at the hole in the bottom of the head. Insert the needle through the neck, and back into the hole at the bottom of the head and exit out the top of the head. Pull the yarn ends at the top of the head evenly and gently and draw the neck stub into the head opening. Pull tightly and seat the head firmly on the neck, then tie the yarn ends in a double knot. Bury the ends in the head. And now you have a simple, move-able head for your amigurumi! A more detailed picture tutorial is here: Simple move-able neck jointing for your Amigurumi Magdalena says 'Hi!' For more patterns by Owlishly, visit her Etsy store here: Owlishly A link to her store is also on the left sidbar of this blog under 'Links I Love.' Enjoy the crochet!

Make a statement in this stunning lace knit shawl pattern. The Jane Austen Shawl channels the romance and elegance of your favorite Victorian novels and all the beauty of a windswept moor. This gorgeous shawl features a intricate lace design with delicate, scalloped edges. You'll love being able to take credit for this beautiful lace shawl pattern.

DIY Tutorials: Bina Brianca Wrap. Wear it as a scarf, cardigan, poncho, blouse, shrug, stole, turtleneck, shoulder scarf, back wrap, tunic, headscarf.

By Maggie Casey

You don't need to spend a fortune on fancy supplies to fulfill all your DIY-loving heart's desires.

This is a question that gets asked a lot in the crochet community: "How do I keep my tail weaved in, so my project doesn't fall apart?"

Summer is just about here and yep, I am a slacker! I can't believe it has been 2-1/2 weeks since I have written in my sewing journal! Summer...

So...I'm going to let the stitch out of the bag - and I am going to provide you with a photo and a video tutorial to teach you how to crochet this stitch successfully! Over a

Easter is about the only time of year you might hear talk of bonnets, but for babies, bonnets are a fact of life! Snuggly and warm, bonnets embrace the delicate contours of a baby's head, while under-the-chin ties prevent the famous "stroller fling". The engineering of these little Baby Bonnets was inspired by the small miracle in sock knitting that is "turning the heel". I thought it would be neat to isolate that magical moment, using it to structure the planes of a bonnet. First from the front peak to the mid-crown and then across the entire back, you essentially "turn the heel", but somehow instead of a sock, you end up with a sweet Baby Bonnet! Thinking about tender babies, I turned to one of Purl Soho's most exquisite yarns, Anzula's For Better Or Worsted. A beautiful blend of superwash merino, cashmere and nylon, it is soft, sumptuous, and stunningly hand dyed. Just right for babies! I hope you enjoy knitting this little one-skein project. It's a bit surprising and a whole lot of fun!

Let op: deze aanbieding is voor een HAAKPATROON om de afgebeelde pop te maken en NIET VOOR EEN KLAAR ITEM Dit is geen verkleedpoppatroon. Dit patroon is beschikbaar in de ENGELSE, FRANS, NEDERLANDSE, SPAANSE, ITALIAANSE en DUITSE taal. Deze aanbieding is voor een uitgebreid PDF-bestand met volledige instructies voor het haken en afwerken van de pop DAWN. Het patroon bevat veel gedetailleerde stap-voor-stap foto's, volledige patrooninstructies en tips voor het haken, naaien en netjes afwerken. Naast tekstuele instructies zijn er ook haakdiagrammen in het patroon beschikbaar. Muts en sjaal van de pop zijn afneembaar. Alle andere kleding is vast verbonden met de pop. Dit patroon maakt gebruik van Amerikaanse haaktermen. Vaardigheidsniveau: gemiddeld tot gevorderd. Afgewerkte maat: Pop: ca. 12 1/4” of 31 cm. Wat je nodig zult hebben: M a t e r i a l s: Dat is het garen dat ik heb gebruikt: • Katoenen garen (sportgewichtgaren - 5-laags), CATANIA - Schachenmayr / BASIC COTTON - Pro Lana (100% katoen, 1,78 ounces = 137 yards/50 gram = 125 meter), 14 verschillende kleuren • Vezelvulling • 2 zwarte veiligheidsogen, Ø 6 mm • Karton of plastic voor de zolen • 2 knoppen voor de schoenen - Ø 1/2" of 14 mm • Sterk draadbestendig (tandzijde) voor de draadverbinding • Naaigaren om de pruik, de knopen, de hoedenband en de bloemen aan te naaien • optioneel: lijm N o t i o n: • Haakmaat US 1½ (2,5 mm) en US 2½ (3,0 mm) • Tapijtnaalden (gebruikelijk en extra lang) • Naald • Stekenmarkering • Schaar • Pinnen • optioneel: houten lepel/eetstokje en klemschaartje om het vullen te vergemakkelijken Copyright, Carola Herbst, CAROcreated, 2018 Alle rechten voorbehouden Alle afbeeldingen en ontwerpen, inclusief de naam en beschrijving van dit patroon, zijn het intellectuele eigendom van CAROcreated / Carola Herbst. Het patroon is alleen voor persoonlijk gebruik. Het patroon of delen ervan (inclusief foto's) mogen niet worden gereproduceerd, herverdeeld, doorverkocht, vertaald, gepubliceerd (online of gedrukt), gewijzigd, gedeeld of gepost (te koop of gratis) via internet of offline! Je bent van harte welkom om een voltooide creatie met mijn patroon te verkopen - in een beperkte serie en handgemaakt door jou. Voeg een link of verwijzing naar mijn winkel www.etsy.com/shop/CAROcreated toe, als u deze op internet vermeldt.

We're going over things you should know to make your own amigurumi. Whether you're following a pattern or making your own, this will be helpful for you!

Take your lounging look to the next level with the Bright and Breezy Kimono. Youll look like a graceful star with this light sweater draped over your shoulders. Created by knitting a series of squares and then sewing them together, this knit sweater pattern is easily mastered by knitters of almost all skill levels. A unique eyelet pattern makes this a great sweater for spring and autumn days when the temperature is a little lower on the scale.

If you’ve ever looked at yarn and wonder, what yarn weight is this? Then, you’re in the right place! This post will go over different yarn weights, what they are and what they look like. You can also refer to the yarn weight chart at the bottom of the post for a quick overview. Some yarns […]

And here it is, a free knitting pattern for the new Bee Calm Shawl. The shawl has a slightly asymmetrical triangular shape and lovely drape. With love to Terrazzo yarn by Scheepjes. Hope you enjoy! Purchase ads free printable pdf file on Ravelry HERE and Etsy HERE. Materials Scheepjes Terrazzo 745 Pergamena x 8 balls (30% Viscose, 70% Wool; 50g/175m) Find Terrazzo via your local Scheepjes shops, and via online retailers: Wool Warehouse* (UK, international shipping), Caro's Atelier* (NL and Europe), Taemombo (US and Canada). 3.25 mm and 3.75 mm needles Gauge for body: 22 sts x 30 rows to measure approx. 10 x 10 cm over seed stitch using 3.25 mm needles, after blocking Gauge for honeycomb: 22 sts x 26 rows to measure 10 x 10 cm over honeycomb stitch using 3.75 mm needles, after blocking Measurements Bee Calm shawl measures approx. 100 x 255 cm/39 x 100in Abbreviations and stitch guide approx. approximately k knit kfb knit front and back to increase by 1 st: insert needles into the next st, knit-wise; knit as you normally would but do not slip st from needle, instead bring needle around to the back and knit through back loop of same st RS right side st(s) stitch(es) p purl WS wrong side 1/2 LPC slip 1 st to cable needle and hold in front, p2, k1 from cable needle 1/2 RPC slip 2 sts to cable needle and hold in back, k1, p2 from cable needle Repeat format […] rep instructions in […] s many times as indicated in the pattern INSTRUCTIONS Copyright An original Lilla Björn Crochet Design (Tatsiana Kupryianchyk). Copyright 2014-2022. All rights reserved. This pattern is for personal use only. It cannot be sold, redistributed or edited in any way. Translations and video tutorials are not allowed. You can sell your finished products, but you cannot use my pictures to promote them. Please, always credit me as a designer of this pattern. Thank you! Purchase ads free printable pdf file on Ravelry HERE and Etsy HERE. Body Beg with 3.25 mm needles and cast on 1 st. Row 1 (RS): Kfb, turn – 2 sts. Row 2: P2, turn. Row 3: Kfb, k1, turn – 3 sts. Row 4: P3, turn. Row 5: Kfb, k2 – 4 sts. Row 6: P4, turn. Row 7: Kfb, k3, turn – 5 sts. Row 8: P5, turn. Row 9: Kfb, p1, k3, turn – 6 sts. Row 10: P3, k1, p2, turn. Row 11: Kfb, p1, k4 – 7 sts. Row 12: P4, k1, p2, turn. Pattern repeat Row 13: Kfb, p1, [k1, p1] rep to last 3 sts, k3, turn – 8 sts. Row 14: P3, [k1, p1] rep to last st, p1, turn. Row 15: Kfb, [p1, k1] rep to last 3 sts, k3 – 9 sts. Row 16: P4, [k1, p1] rep to last st, p1, turn. End of pattern repeat Rep rows 13-16 until you get 176 sts. Row 17 (RS): Kfb, p to last 3 sts, k3, turn – 177 sts. Row 18: P3, k to last st, p1, turn. Row 19: Kfb, k to end, turn – 178 sts. Row 20: P to end, turn. Rows 21-22: Rep rows 17-18 – 179 sts. Rows 23-30: Rep rows 13-16 twice – 180 sts. Rows 31-32: Rep rows 17-18 – 184 sts. Rows 33-38: Rep rows 19-20 three times – 187 sts. Rows 39-40: Rep rows 17-18 – 188 sts. Rows 41-42: Rep rows 19-20 – 189 sts. CHART for shawl's body Honeycomb panel Change to 3.75 mm needles. Row 43 (RS): Kfb, p1, k2, [p4, k2] rep to last 5 sts, p2, k3, turn – 190 sts. Row 44 (WS): P3, k2, [p2, k4] rep to last 5 sts, p2, k2, p1, turn. Row 45: Kfb, [1/2 RPC, 1/2 LPC] rep to last 3 sts, k3, turn – 191 sts. Row 46: P4, [k4, p2] rep to last st, p1, turn. Pattern repeat Row 47: Kfb, [k2, p4] rep to last 4 sts, k4, turn – 192 sts. Row 48: P4, [k4, p2] rep to last 2 sts, k1, p1, turn. Row 49: Kfb, p2, [1/2 LPC, 1/2 RPC] rep to last 3 sts, k3, turn – 193 sts. Row 50: P3, k2, [p2, k4] rep to last 2 sts, p2, turn. Row 51: Kfb, k1, [p4, k2] rep to last 5 sts, p2, k3, turn – 194 sts. Row 52: P3, k2, [p2, k4] rep to last 3 sts, p3, turn. Row 53: Kfb, p1, 1/2 LPC, [1/2 RPC, 1/2 LPC] rep to last 3 sts, k3, turn – 195 sts. Row 54: P4, k4, [p2, k4] rep to last st, p1, turn. Row 55: Kfb, p4, [k2, p4] rep to last 4 sts, k4, turn – 196 sts. Row 56: P4, [k4, p2] rep to end, turn. Row 57: Kfb, [1/2 LPC, 1/2 RPC] rep to last 3 sts, k3, turn – 197 sts. Row 58: P3, k2, [p2, k4] rep to last 6 sts, p2, k3, p1, turn. Row 59: Kfb, p3, k2, [p4, k2] rep to last 5 sts, p2, k3, turn – 198 sts. Row 60: P3, k2, [p2, k4] rep to last st, p1, turn. Row 61: Kfb, p1, k1, [1/2 RPC, 1/2 LPC] rep to last 3 sts, k3, turn – 199 sts. Row 62: P4, [k4, p2] rep to last 3 sts, k2, p1, turn. Row 63: Kfb, p2, [k2, p4] rep to last 4 sts, k4, turn – 200 sts. Row 64: P4, [k4, p2] rep to last 4 sts, k3, p1, turn. Row 65: Kfb, k1, 1/2 RPC, [1/2 LPC, 1/2 RPC] rep to last 3 sts, k3, turn – 201 sts. Row 66: P3, k2, [p2, k4] rep to last 4 sts, p2, k1, p1, turn. Row 67: Kfb, p1, k2, [p4, k2] rep to last 5 sts, p2, k3, turn – 202 sts. Row 68: P3, k2, [p2, k4] rep to last 5 sts, p2, k2, p1, turn. Row 69: Kfb, [1/2 RPC, 1/2 LPC] rep to last 3 sts, k3, turn – 203 sts. Row 70: P4, [k4, p2] rep to last st, p1, turn. End of pattern repeat Rep rows 47-70 four more times – 251 sts. Then rep rows 47-54 once more – 255 sts. CHART for honeycomb panel Edge Change back to 3.25 mm needles. Rows 71-72: Rep rows 17-18 – 256 sts. Rows 73-78: Rep rows 19-20 three times – 259 sts. Rows 79-80: Rep rows 17-18 – 260 sts. Rows 81-88: Rep rows 13-16 twice – 264 sts. Rows 89-90: Rep rows 17-18 – 265 sts. Row 91 (increase): Kfb, [k9, kfb] rep to last 4 sts, k4, turn – 292 sts. Row 92: P to end, turn. Row 93: Kfb, [k2, p2] rep to last 3 sts, k3 – 293 sts. Work approx. 5 cm in the established 2x2 ribbing. In the beg of RS rows, always work kfb and introduce increased stitched to the existing ribbing pattern on the next rows. After the ribbing is finished, cast off. Block the shawl. Congratulations! Your shawl is now finished! Purchase ads free printable pdf file on Ravelry HERE and Etsy HERE. Subscribe to a newsletter not to miss a single post. You can also follow me on Facebook, Pinterest and Instagram.

I’ve created this page to show all of the sock heel patterns I can find. It’s a page I can quickly use as a reference. If you have a heel you love leave a comment and a link and I’…

I love starting new projects - especially projects with new and unique techniques! I recently purchased two sweet baby daygown books from Ma...

Lace weight yarns can be daunting, yet the projects made with lace weight yarn are always attractive. The Lilac Love Lace Shawl is a delicate, airy confection that you’ll love wrapping around your shoulders. This is one knit shawl pattern that you’ll love to see spread out, since the intricate stitching is a beauty to look at. A fine yarn is used in this knit lace shawl pattern, but the end result is worth it; the yarn will look like a fine aura.