A few weeks ago, I found out about another technique that has changed and greatly facilitated the way I make amigurumi, much like the Magic Circle which I previously blogged about. Before…
Link easily to this tutorial in your patterns: www.planetjune.com/invdec If you've been making amigurumi, you may be lamenting the gap or bump that forms when you decrease. The standard methods of decreasing are to sc2tog, which can leave a bit of a bump and a small gap, or to skip a stitch ...
Don't miss this crochet tip!! Use this amigurumi tip to easily insert your needle through your stuffed amigurumi and out the other side. #crochet
Today I’ll be showing you how to use a twin needle or double needle on your sewing machine all in a video tutorial. There’s a photo tutorial as well along with some great close up examples to help you be as successful as possible with sewing with a twin needle. There’s something about sewing two […]
Fixed Circular Knitting Needles 80cm/31 inches length Sizes 2-8mm KnitPro Karbonz KnitPro/Knitters Karbonz 80cm/31 inch circular knitting needles. Available in Size 2 - 8mm One Fixed Circular Needle - (Two Needle Tips joined by a Cable) Knitting needles Karbonz KnitPro are a new generation of knitting needles made of high-tech carbon fiber with a copper-plated nickel tip! The main distinguishing feature of these flawless spokes is a shiny and smooth copper tip. These knitting needles are suitable for all types of yarn, since they have an ideal tapered shape, light weight and high strength limit. They are especially convenient when using openwork knitting or when knitting socks. The surface made of carbon fiber helps the stitches move smoothly over the knitting needles! You will definitely appreciate these knitting needles. •Perfect points, flawlessly tapered – ideal for all yarns and every project •Shiny nickel tips for ultimate smart outlook •Very light on hands •Warm to the touch, and gentle in the hand •Laser printed sizes on all needles
KnitPro Karbonz Fixed Circular Needles 40cm. Perfect for small circumference knitting. A revolutionary product! New-age needles made from high-tech carbon fibre with tips in electroplated brass. Combination of two versatile materials – light bodied carbon fibre & sharp brass tips – is guaranteed to provide an unparalleled knitting experience! No other knitting needle comes closer to this. Shiny, smooth brass tips comes in perfect points, flawlessly tapered – Ideal for all types of yarns and for every project. The needles have high tensile strength, are light weight with lots of flexibility. Warm to touch & gentle in the hand. A smooth join ensures easy stitch glide and no snagging. Resilient, flexible cables lay flat with no kink or twist – easy to store. Now available in sizes 2.00mm (US 0) to 8.00mm (US 11) ideal for lace knitting, sock knitting, etc.
dc4tog (double crochet 4 stitches together) Yarn over (YO) hook, insert hook in stitch(st), pull up a loop (lp), 3 lps on hook. YO hook, ...
Forget which row you're on? Counting rows in crochet does not have to be difficult. In fact, here are seven EASY ways to help you figure it out!
Yarn Over vs. Yarn Under: Is there a right way? Whether working with single crochet, half double crochet, or a post stitch, we want to make sure we do it right.
In the series of decorative ways to cast-on a knitting project, I present here the bobble cast-on method. A photo tutorial with step by step instructions!
We're going over things you should know to make your own amigurumi. Whether you're following a pattern or making your own, this will be helpful for you!
143 p
Silk: prized for its durability, strength, warmth, and delicacy—as well as its ability to take color beautifully. Knitting with silk yarns can be a challenge, but don’t let it scare you! With the proper instruction and a few expert tips, you can begin stitching gorgeous silk-yarn knitting patterns. 3 Top Tips for Knitting with Silk …
In this tutorial I will show you how to attach legs to a body when assembling an amigurumi animal using an invisible ink marker.
We’ve all bound off in rib stitch only to find that the edge is not…
Here be dragons, or so says the legend – though when you climb Drachenfels today you’ll find only the ruins of an ancient stronghold.Stave off the chill wind with this cosy shawl, which pays homage to the dragon of lore with a slipped garter colorwork pattern that hints of scales.It’s worked in garter stitch from tip to edge, then neatly finished with I-cord bind-off.Asymmetrical increases create an elongated triangle shape, and Rosy Green Wool’s Cheeky Merino Joy will keep you toasty warm. A substitute yarn is suggested below.Pattern has been tech edited and test knitted.Shown in Rosy Green Cheeky Merino Joy. A suggested substitute is shown below.
This is pretty cool technique to use! I used this technique in my pattern "Mediterranean Night Pullover", which is being tested right now and soon will be in the shops! https://goo.gl/photos/CtSTgcu
One of the items I love knitting most are hats, and the folded brim is a technique I use often. When you begin with a provisional cast-on – I prefer and exclusively use the crochet provisional cast on, detailed here – and join the cast on and live stitches, the end result is a seamless folded brim that is warm and stro
Hi Knitters, Do you wash your wool? I do and often. I have become a regular wool washing convert. If there is one good point I want to get across in this post it is that washing your 100% wool knit items is incredibly simple and produces gorgeous finished projects. In fact, even when I have knit a garment in superwash wool, I still wash it by hand as if it is regular wool because I don't want it to stretch out. I enjoy giving my handknits gentle attention and extra care. Plus, it is easy. You don't need to be intimidated by the care involved for wool garments or accessories. It is a snap to wash and block. Blocking is actually kind of fun. If you follow some simple, easy steps you will be a wool washing convert, too. The results of the washing and blocking of the 100% wool yarn is a match made in heaven. The wool fibers relax, the fabric becomes softer and the stitches even out. It is a beautiful thing. I am going to take you step-by-step through the washing and blocking of the shawl I finished called, Piper's Journey by Paul Emons-Fuessle of the Knitting Pipeline Podcast. It is knit in the 100% American wool by Quince & Co. in the Chickadee base which is a dk weight. The colorway is Icelandic, which is a beautiful heather gray. I will link all information about the knits and everything I use today to wash and block my shawl at the end of the post. Step 1: (photo above) Pull out all of the things you will need to wash and block your item before you start. In this case I used blocking boards, flexible blocking wires and pins, wool wash, and a tub for soaking. Step 2: Pour a little of your wool wash in your tub and fill the tub with lukewarm or room temperature or cold water if that makes you more comfortable. I use lukewarm water. I don't measure the amount of soap. I like lots of suds and I love the smell of the Soak so I am generous when squeezing that bottle to add the soap. I fill enough water to cover the item I am washing. Step 3: Place the item to be washed in the tub. Step 4: Gently squish your woolly knit into the soapy water so it saturates and seeps into the fibers of the yarn. Step 5: Let your item soak for at least 20 minutes or so. Here is a place in the process where I fudge around quite a bit. For this project, I ended up making lunch for my son and husband and came back to my soaking shawl about an hour later. It's all fine! Some people soak their items for a lot longer than I do. Step 6: While your woolly knit is soaking in the wool wash, set up your blocking area. I pieced the blocking boards together and got my wires ready to go. Step 7: After the item has soaked long enough I gather it up and gently squeeze it over the tub to get the excess water out. I don't rinse the Soak out at all. I love the scent and it conditions the wool and dries beautifully. It is like leave-in conditioner for your hair. After gently squeezing I place the knit item in a clean towel and gently squeeze it again. It is still wet at this point, just not dripping. Step 8: I carefully spread out the item on the blocking board. I am going to specifically talk about this shawl now. The designer, Paula, said she gently blocked her shawl so really you could leave the blocking at that and just let it dry. It looked beautiful without adding any pins or wires. It's really up to you. Here is another photo of the shawl without pins or wires. It already looks great. Step 9: Adding Pins and Wires I started at the ends of the shawl and added a couple of pins to hold them in place. This just seemed like a logical place to start. Next, I really wanted to stretch out the lace edging to show it off to its full effect. I started at the center of the outer edge. Using one flexible wire, I threaded it through each garter ridge along the edge of the lace and continued threading until I got to the end on one side. Then I added another wire starting at the center and threaded it through in the same way along the outer edge until I got to the other end. Next, I started adding pins just inside the wire to hold and secure the shape I wanted for the shawl. These flexible blocking wires are fantastic for round shaped shawls. I also have straight blocking wires that are great for straight edges. Above is the finished shawl with pins and blocking wires pulling the lace out quite tight. I didn't measure or worry about it being exact in any way. I just used my eye and it worked out wonderfully. Some people like to measure to make sure things are even and perfect and that's good, too. I didn't pin or use wires on the neck edge of the shawl. I didn't think it needed anything. You can see how the pins pull the wire out to really open up the lace edging. It was nice and tight. I just wanted to share the beautiful stretched garter stitch in the light and airy Chickadee. I love this yarn more than I can say. It is simply gorgeous. Step 10: Let it dry! Now comes the test of patience. You have to wait it out until that yarn is completely dry. I like to put a fan on my blocking items. You will be amazed at how much this speeds up the process of drying. Wait, wait, wait! Step 11: After your item is completely dry (this shawl dried very quickly but I left it overnight), carefully remove the pins and pull out the wires. Next up? Check back to see my finished Piper's Journey Shawl! Links to the items used in this post: Quince & Co. Chickadee yarn Piper's Journey shawl pattern Soak Wool Wash Soak Basin Inspinknity flexible blocking wires Knitter's Block blocking boards I hope this was informative and helpful. best, susie
Worked back and forth by knitting on every row, garter stitch makes the easiest-to-create of all hand knitted fabrics. However, where the edge is exposed, such as on a scarf or afghan edge, there is often trouble. There may be waving, ruffling, stretching. This trouble may announce itself at the time of knitting, as when an edge comes off the needles a bit loose and wavy, as shown below. Garter stitch fabric, a bit loose and wavy, before edging However, somewhat loose fabric is not the only situation where this trouble may arise. Even tight, well-executed garter stitch fabric may face this problem in the future, as it stretches into ruffles while it is worn. Today's post shows an uber-easy edging which will cure existing garter-edge problems and prevent future ones. Tight (back) and loose (front) garter stitch fabric, edged This edging can be applied with a knitting needle, although it is easier to do it with a crochet hook, as illustrated. This technique is called "slip stitch" and creates a neat little chain around the garment. The chain constrains the edge. Once edged, the garter stitch fabric can stretch sufficiently to preserve the knitting's stretchy nature, but not so much as to permit ruffling. As far as appearance, chain edging garter stitch offers a simple design element, suitable to all. Both MrTECH--that fashion-averse curmudgeon, and MsTECH--that teen fashion-setter, find this edging attractive--a rare case of agreement between these fashion-opposites. Here's how, in 3 steps. Step 1: Insert the crochet hook (or knitting needle) through the edge of the fabric. Take a note of just WHERE on the stitch you are inserting--as long as you insert into the same part of every stitch, you will get a pleasant, consistent edging. I think it looks best to insert a bit off the very edge, leaving a bit of the original garter edge showing above the chain as in the photos, but you must use your own judgment--some prefer the look of a chain right along the very edge of the fabric. Once the hook (or needle) is through the fabric, catch the running yarn and draw up a loop. Now, go to the next stitch of your garter stitch fabric and again insert, catching the yarn on the hook or needle. The below illustration shows the hook inserted through the fabric, from front to back, catching the running yarn, and about to pull the second loop through the fabric edge--the first loop was pulled through the same manner. Step 1 Step 2: The second loop has been drawn through the fabric. There are now two loops on the hook on the front face of the fabric. Step 2 Step 3: The last step is to draw the second loop (the one more towards the business end of the hook/needle) THROUGH the first loop (the one more towards the handle). As the steps are repeated and the just-pulled-through chain drawn through the one before it on the hook or needle, you will see a pleasant-looking chain forming along the edge of the garter stitch fabric. The chain only shows on the front face of the fabric--there is a neat "stitched" look on the back of the fabric. The edge of the fabric will not ruffle and stretch when edged in this manner. Step 3 Of course in this, as in all things, "use makes master" as the Latin saying goes. If your edging is coming out too tight or too loose, change needle or hook size (or pull more or less hard) until you get the "just right" tension you're looking for: firm but not unyielding. It's very easy to pull this edge out and re-do, so mess around until you like the tension --you'll know when you get there. Happy knitting --TK PS: There is a view of another edged garter stitch scarf--a quite tailored one, on Ravelry, if you click here. When you get there, click on the top photo, and then on the "+" sign on the photo, and you will get quite a closeup of the front and the back of this edging on the mustard-colored scarf at the link. You have been reading TECHknitting blog on chain edging for garter stitch fabrics
Шаль с прекрасной каймой из аранов отлично впишется в ваш осенний образ. Арановый мотив с ажурными листиками образует широкую кайму, начинаясь с правого уголка шали, и постепенно переходит в кайму с узором резинкой.
Shows how to make french knots, an embroidery stitch on crocheted fabric. You need your crochet fabric, then a contrasting color, and a yarn needle...
On the community knitting board Ravelry, the subject has twice lately come up of crossing stitches to avoid a hole where a vertical opening (pocket slit, buttonhole, sleeve opening, division for the heeltab of a sock) is being made. Although it is not the only method for avoiding holes in this area, crossing stitches is a decent utility method for solving the problem and deserves a post of its own. Illustration 1 shows the nature of the problem. Specifically, when two columns of stitches are to be separated, the only thing holding the fabric together under the separation is a single stand of yarn (illustrated in green). That single strand tends to stretch out, and will eventually leave a hole in this area. Illustration 2 shows that by crossing the stitches in the row just under the separation, there will now be five strands of yarn to take the strain (green) rather than the single strand in illustration 1. (As to how to cross the stitches, the easiest way is probably to spear one stitch with a bobby pin and let it hang on the back or the front of the work, knit the next stitch, and then replace the stitch from the bobby pin onto the left needle, and then knit it. Whether you allow the bobby-pinned stitch to fall to the back or the front determines whether the front stitch of the crossed pair slants right or left) Illustration 3 shows an application of this principle at the heel tab of a sock. Illustration 4 shows crossed stitches at the bottom of a vertical opening such as a pocket slit or a vertical buttonhole, or at the bottom of a sleeve opening. Illustration 5 is the same as illustration 4, but shown "in the wool." As you can see, the stitches are crossed differently in illustrations 4 and 5, and it is up to you to decide which way you like better--structurally, it makes no difference at all. Crossing stitches makes a sturdy utility reinforcement--very good for socks, buttonholes, glove fingers, sleeve openings and children's clothing. However, this method makes a noticeable pucker in the fabric, and therefore is perhaps not so wonderful for a v-neck sweater, where (depending on the further edge treatment) the pucker created by crossing the stitches might be on very obvious display. A note to knitting geeks: there is one additional application of crossing stitches which is quite lovely. When you KNOW you are going to use a Norwegian sleeve "psuedo-steek" (no additional stitches added for the steek) you can cross the stitches in the row UNDER where the cut for the sleeve steek is going to end. In other words, after you have secured the two columns of stitches on either side of the intended cut, then when you come to cut the "ladder" between the two columns, there will be a nice pair of crossed stitches at the bottom of the ladder, just waiting to take the strain at the bottom of the newly-made opening. --TECHknitter You have been reading TECHknitting on "crossed stitch reinforcement for the bottom of a vertical opening in knitwear."
A quick pictorial for crochet left handed
Double knitting creates two layers of fabric simultaneously, on one set of needles. This provides warmth for bed socks and protection for laptop covers.
Limited Time The Portuguese Style of Knitting Learn the Portuguese Style of Knitting at your own pace with leading expert Andrea Wong. With over 20 years of ...
Since figuring out how to knit backwards for the Miss Winkle Knitalong, I've been surprised quite how useful this skill has become. Two of my latest projects have been made much easier thanks to this quick and easy way of working back and forth along a row without turning the work. In effect, it's just purling with the right side facing. When it was discussed previously, it seemed some were reticent, thinking it to be difficult, so today's post aims to show you just how simple it is - if you can purl, you can do it! Although I usually knit 'Continental style', this is one of the rare exceptions (binding off is another) when the English/throwing style works better for me as it gives more control over the tension of the reverse stitches - if you knit both ways, you might like to see whether you get the same result. There are a few more tutorials coming up which build upon this method of knitting. It's especially useful for any project where only a few stitches need to be worked in reverse, such as on short rows, bobbles, entrelac and so on. If you haven't already tried it I do hope this will encourage you to give it a go, and if you are already using this method, I'd love to hear what you find it to be most useful for.
Read Knitting languages knitting terms in several languages by siren97 on Issuu and browse thousands of other publications on our platform. Start h...
The picot bind off is a lovely, simple, decorative bind off that adds small picots at the edge of your piece. We frequently use this bind off when working shawls, as in the case of Evangelina, a triangular shawl designed by Meghan Kelly for the Andorra collection. It is pretty simple to execute (only three steps!), but
my current needle lace project, The Sun, stage 2.
***This is a listing for a PDF Knitting Pattern ONLY - NOT an actual finished shawl. Pattern is in ENGLISH only.*** SONGBIRD SHAWL It’s human to get a little bit lost sometimes. Songbird was inspired by the feeling of realizing when you’ve gotten off track and by how difficult it can be to find the way back to your true self. The path back isn’t always smooth. Sections of garter and stockinette make for easy knitting, while the two textured stitches add a touch of challenge. The result is symbolic of how every rocky step on your journey creates beauty in the end. May you embrace every opportunity to grow, and have the freedom & bravery to accept the path back to your true self. Use hashtag #songbirdshawl to share your projects on social media. For all questions & pattern support please email askveryshannon [!at] gmail.com FINISHED MEASUREMENTS 85 in / 216 cm wingspan and 18 in / 46 cm depth measured as per Schematic (included in pattern) after blocking. GAUGE 20.5 sts and 39 rows = 4 in / 10 cm in Garter stitch, unblocked 20.5 sts and 29.5 rows = 4 in / 10 cm in Stockinette stitch, unblocked YARN REQUIRMENTS Note: If you would like to keep your swatch (or you have a gauge discrepancy) you will require additional yardage. This shawl uses almost all of the 3 skeins (including the tassels). The tassels for this shawl are optional and use approximately 32 yds / 29.5 m total of yarn. Approximately 570 yds /522 m of worsted weight yarn Sample shown in: Ritual Dyes Elder (100% Rambouillet Wool, 190 yds / 174 m per 100g skein), shown in colorway Clay NEEDLES US 6 / 4.00 mm, long circular recommended Note: Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the proper gauge. NOTIONS Blocking wires (optional), yarn needle CONSTRUCTION This shawl is knit from tip to tip increasing along one edge and decreasing along the other throughout. This pattern includes both fully written & charted instructions as well as a handy stitch count table and schematic. It has been professionally tech edited and thoroughly tested. Photography by © Koyahni Photography.
Great looking SSK’s are possible! With just a few small tips you can be on your way to making these stitches look better. Many people struggle with having both their left-leaning and right-leaning decreases looking the same, but it doesn’t have to be this way. Both of these tips are easy to do and can …
For larger buttons and a firm and neat buttonhole, try this horizontal 1-row buttonhole. I very much love the results it gives!
Podcast Episode 148 - The Ergonomics of Handknitting, Knitting Q&A - VeryPink offers knitting patterns and video tutorials from Staci Perry. Short technique videos and longer pattern tutorials to take your knitting skills to the next level.
Learn how to select and use a knit with confidence; this guide to the confusing world of knit fabrics will help you.
I get asked every day if gauge matters in knitting and crochet. I got a few friends to knit identical squares for me. (Same yarn, same needles, same pattern) There is a HUGE difference in these. Gauge matters.
This pattern is available for €7.50 EUR buy it now
