Begin knitting, crocheting, or cross stitching to really understand how your income can change one spool of yarn at a time.

Trick out your temporary digs.

Learn how to make the loop yarn criss-cross stitch with this video and photo tutorial. Loop yarn is a finger knitting yarn and you can knit without needles.

If you happen to be working on a project that requires the use of a very wee ball of yarn, then you might want to take advantage of this handy tip from VickieDesigns by sticking your yarn in a tea infuser and using it as a travel yarn dispenser!

This square wooden embroidery hoop is ideal for embroidery and can also be used as a stretcher for fabric, painting and more! It is available in multiple sizes so you can fit your project with ease.Available in multiple sizes The lightweight hoop will help you to effortlessly achieve the perfect tension in your material for cross stitch and embroidery. The wooden design will also provide greater security than a plastic hoop. Klass & Gessmann, specialist for fine needlework and other handicraft equipment, was founded in 1877. With over one hundred years of know-how, Klass & Gessmann is able to offer an extensive range of high-quality products in a wide variety of sizes and models.Now Klass & Gessmann is produced under the Turkish brand 'Sirin kasnak ' in Turkey and in Bulgaria.Sirin Kasnak was established in Bursa in 1988. The company produces embroidery hoops and industrial embroidery hoops. The company established its second production facility in Plovdiv - Bulgaria in 2001. In 2005, it acquired the world-renowned "Klass & Gessmann" brand. Simply place your fabric between the rings and tighten the screw fixing to secure. Made of natural hardwood – beech, triple glued and finally polished. The height is 0.35 inches / 9 mm and thickness is 0.35 inches /9 mm. Made in Turkey Size: -5.9 x 5.9 inches (15 x 15 cm) -7.9 x 7.9 inches (20 x 20 cm) -9.8 x 9.8 inches (25 x 25 cm) -11.8 x 11.8 inches (30 x 30 cm) -13.8 x 13.8 inches (35 x 35 cm) -15.7 x 15.7 inches (40 x 40cm) Customs and import taxes Buyers are responsible for any customs and import taxes that may apply. I'm not responsible for delays due to customs.

Doctor Who: the Fourth Doctor's Scarf: The scarf I made is based on the one worn by Tom Baker as the Fourth Doctor in the British Sci-Fi series Doctor Who. This oversized, multicolored scarf is perhaps the most iconic piece of his wardrobe. Usually reproductions of the scarf are knitted.…

Have you found that the yarn overs on one side of your knitting are significantly larger than the other side? This isn't bad knitting and there's an easy fix! Find out how to troubleshoot and fix those non-symmetrical yarn overs with Ysolda's top tips.

The Mosaic Sisters pattern- a set of colorful mosaic knit kitchen towels, washcloths, and coasters - is here! Meet the sisters and get the pattern . Check out the other tutorials for the Mosaic Sisters: The Long Tail Cast On and Mosaic Knitting 101 .

How to double crochet (dc) with written instructions and step-by-step photos. How to increase, decrease, dc2tog, and dc in the round.

Blanket stitch is a fantastic edge stitch for sewing around felt and fabric. It is widely used in hand stitching and very popular but also t...

How to Read Crochet Patterns Learn how to read crochet patterns with our 34-minute tutorial presentation on breaking down a pattern. From the basics of

Ecological weaving yarn bundles and fiber packs for premium weaving gifts | Hand loom supplies for beginners | Shipping worldwide from Amsterdam

If you don't follow me on Instagram… well why don't you?? I LOVE Instagram, it's been such a fun way to connect with my customers and find a community of cross stitchers who share my love of modern design and crafts. I love responding to questions about my designs, my process, and cross stitching tips on Instagram too. After I posted pics of my new design, Arcadia, I had several requests for tips on working with metallic threads. Metallics are a great way to add some sparkle and life to your cross stitch work, but they are a PAIN to deal with. Metallic floss seems to have a mind of its own and staying on your needle and laying nicely on your fabric are just not always what it wants to do. It also gets weakened and frays quite easily, and then you end up with a mess. I used to dread working with metallics as much as anyone else, until I learned this technique which completely changed my mind. As several of my Instagram followers claim, this is a game changer! First I should state that in my opinion, all metallic accents should be done LAST. Seriously, finish all your other stitching first, and then do the metallics. It's hard to wait because they are so pretty, but metallic threads are more fragile and more likely to get snagged, and if you are still working on your fabric for a while, the metallic stitches are going to end up looking raggedy by the time you're done. OK, so photographing a single strand of metallic floss is basically impossible, so in the photo below, pretend that the red floss is just ONE strand of metallic thread: Step 1: cut 16" of metallic floss and pull out a SINGLE strand, not two. Fold that strand in half and thread the folded end into your needle eye. Step 2: pull enough of that folded end through the eye until you can flip the looped thread over the sharp end of your needle. Step 3: While hanging onto the doubled part of your floss with one hand, pull the needle to tighten that loop and slide the loop towards the eye of the needle. You are basically making a half-hitch knot at the end of your needle. Step 4: pull the knot tight until it sort of "locks in" at the point where your needle ends. Now you just stitch as you normally would, essentially stitching with two strands. This method keeps the floss from sliding and twisting around, and all the fraying should happen right at the base of the needle which won't get used anyway. This does mean that you're stitching with only 8" of floss at a time, but with metallics, anything longer than that and you will get frayed spots for sure. If you find that pulling the little knot through the fabric is difficult, try going up to a larger needle size than you would normally use. That will help stretch the holes out a bit, which will help the rough thread go through easier. If you haven't tried this technique before, I hope you give it a try! And if you have other tips for working with metallics, I'd love to hear them!

Find our embroidery basics to get you started with this fabulous crafting technique, like a stem stitch, French knot, lazy daisy and satin stitch

As kids, we enjoyed all sorts of fun hobbies. Somehow, back in the day, no matter how much homework we got, we still managed to do all this other cool stuff. But even if you are very busy as an adult, you should definitely find some new hobbies to try and attempt fitting them into your schedule. These hobbies don’t even have to be something complicated or time-consuming. There are tons of easy hobbies to pick up out there, and so everyone can find something to their taste.

Don't feel like reading? Watch the full video tutorial & review above. I’m back with another review. Everyone knows that I can’t resist a cool…

Step-by-step tutorial about a simple way to count rows between cables to ensure the distance between crossed stitches is the same.

Bananas really surprised me.

Sashiko Stitch Instructions for beginners A trend in embroidery: Sashiko stitching and visible mending. This ancient Japanese craft is easy to learn. It gives quick results and makes stunning textile pieces. In this tutorial we explain the basics you need to know about Sashiko stitching. We share our recommendations for Sashiko materials. You will also

As I think I have mentioned before (translation: I am too lazy to check) my big project right now is to spin & then knit myself a cardigan. This was supposed to be my big project last winter, but it didn't get very far. But a winter's worth of wishing I had a nice gray cardigan might be the impetus to get me to actually make one this year. I am using a Churro-Corriedale cross fleece that is nice to the touch but not the softest thing ever -- good, because I want this to be durable and long lasting. What passes for winter here is not all that cold, and I wear a wool cardigan as my outer coat through much of the long fall. When it gets colder, I just put a coat on top; I wear a wool cardigan almost every day and I want this one to be around for a few decades. Last week I experimented with fiber prep. First I carded a batt, elongated it, & spun it supported long draw from the end for a semi everything style single, which I then made into a 3 ply with a fairly high angle of twist. Next I combed yarn with both my English combs and my Viking combs, and spun them pretty much the same way. (For comparison purposes, I noted that there was twice as much waste with the English combs but prep time was a little faster with the English. I also felt they were easier on my wrists, but harder to use in that I won't get them out when my kids are home. I'm afraid I'll stab myself in the thigh due to a sudden shriek or racing child. Prep time with the combs seemed about comparable to carding, though I didn't keep records when I made that batt, either of the time spent teasing or the amount of waste (considerable as there were lots of second cuts).) Here's the swatch knit up from those three yarns: On the bottom is the carded fiber. The middle bit is Viking combs & the top is English. In person the yarn made from carded fiber is much fuzzier. I'm not sure if the difference will persist through many washes or wearings, though. (And in all honesty, my husband says the differences are all but imperceptable to him.) Here they are knit into a cable (with peculiar errors, but it was knit at a child's birthday party): The bottom half is carded fiber. Then there's a garter stitch break; next comes the fiber prepped with Viking combs; after a faint black line comes the English comb version. Here I see little or no difference -- do you? Then I decided to try worsted prep & worsted spinning, again for a three ply. Because I'm hoping to do this sweater fairly quickly, I spun the singles at an easy size, which was a little finer than the easy size for the long draw. Also, of course, the yarn didn't bloom as much (or really at all). So I knitted this swatch separately, on 5's instead of 7's: Here are the two yarns that differ the most, the drum carded & the worsted spun. Even though my scanner couldn't quite focus on them you can still see the difference in fuzziness: Here are the swatches side by side: Now you can really see the difference. They are both very appealing to me. I like the clarity of the worsted yarn, but I like the fuzziness of the semi-woolen. Should I make a fuzzy-cable sweater if I'm thinking I might also make a twisted-stitch sweater, so that the contrast between the two will be greater? Should I choose the woolenish yarn because the worsted yarn takes twice as long to spin? Also, and perhaps more seriously, I am planning on knitting as I spin, not spinning all the yarn first and then knitting. This means, of course, that I can't spin all the singles before plying, and so will need to stay pretty consistent as I go along. You can see in the photo of the two yarns that the woolen style yarn is much more consistent than the worsted. I wasn't really concentrating on either yarn, but to be honest I don't think I can maintain concentration across a sweater's worth of yarn, so I thought I might as well sample the way I would probably spin the real yarn. Comments? Things I should be taking into consideration? I'm going to stuff the swatches into my pockets and carry them around for a week while re-reading all my books on Aran design. Then I will probably knit the Must-Have Cardigan (Ravelry link) except I have to fix that neck. The way that cable gets cut off drives me crazy which is why I've never knit this even though it has been catching my eye for years. Plus I like it in oatmeal, so maybe I shouldn't knit it in gray because I certainly don't want to knit it twice. So maybe I should make Norah Gaughan's Tweedy Aran Cardigan (Ravelry again) which would totally require the worsted yarn except -- hello? Norah? what's with the hip-enhancing band? -- it calls for a different sort of redesign. So like I said, I have some planning & thinking to do while I let these swatches age. But not for too long ... it may be getting up to 90 today, but fall is surely coming.

Have you got a million ball bands lying around? Would you like to organize your yarn stash? Have a look at how I keep track of my yarns.

Learn all about how to make a yarn ball with the Knit Picks ball winder. Also, check out how this ball winder helps me organize my stash!

One of the biggest problems knitters have when knitting sweaters is accurately picking up the right number of stitches evenly across the garment when working the button bands on a cardigan (or a neckl

With our eco punch needle kits you have everything to get started with punch needle embroidery. Ecological punch canvas and e00% ecological wool

Hi everyone I’ve been asked by a number of people who have seen my latest blanket on Instagram about the join I’m using. To my knowledge it isn’t a regular join, but one that I made up myself. I devised it for a blanket I was making in 2017, and really the liked the effect… Continue reading Side to Side Slip Stitch Join

Learn how to make the most unique crochet hat in rows instead of rounds with this step-by-step tutorial. Short rows are the secret sauce behind this clever hat.

Alright, I need to file this one in my brain under “Stuff I wished I knew a LONG time ago!!”. If you hate weaving in ends (which is everyone, be honest!), then this is going to blow your mind. It is a such a simple knot that every #knitter and #crocheter should have this in their mental toolkit. The trick […]

Un condensé de jolies choses trouvées sur Pinterest : des DIY, des ilustrations, des tatouages etc. Bienvenue dans mes trouvailles Pinterest!