We broke down the where and the what when it comes to our home so you don't have to wonder where we got that chair/lamp/light or what color our walls are anymore!
My hubby and three teenaged boys wear out a lot of t-shirts and jeans, and i can't bring myself to throw them away. The jeans turn into c...
Build your own toddler step stool and bring your child to counter height. Features adjustable height platform, removable tip resistant kit, and optional fold flat modification.
My hubby and three teenaged boys wear out a lot of t-shirts and jeans, and i can't bring myself to throw them away. The jeans turn into car blanket sort of quilts, but the i never knew what was in store for the t-shirts until i realized a person could make braided rag rugs with them. This is a quick step-by-step of my process, but please do additional web research in order to get additional options. Used: old t-shirts (22 were used in this project) fabric scissors heavy thread (eg. quilting thread) large needle backing fabric (about 1.5 yd, depending on your finished rug size) 1. I picked all of the red, grey, black and khaki green t-shirts out of my mountain of old cotton. Using my sharp fabric scissors i cut off the bottom hem of the shirt (discard it), and then cut in a single, continuous, upwards spiral around the t-shirt, eyeballing a strip width of 2-2 1/2 inches. Terminate your strip when you run into the armhole seam. 2. If you pull gently lengthwise on each strip, the fabric edges tend to curl in on itself from the sides. I put the ends of three long strips together, inner side of the fabric facing up (the edges thereby curl away from you and you don't see the raw edges), and pinned them to a heavy window curtain. You use the natural curl to make the strips more rope-like, which makes them easy to braid neatly. You may be able to think of something else to pin the braid to, but i found it comfortable to work standing, the braid pinned at about eye level, and then i could braid quickly for 3 feet or so, before unpinning and raising the braid up and re-pinning at about eye level again to continue braiding. You want the braid to be fairly tight. 3. To coil the rug, you want one super long length of braid. When you come to the end of one t-shirt strip while you are braiding, you add another strip to it. Here is a really handy method, which avoids the hard bump a knot would make: *Adding strips end-to-end: a.) Cut a 1/2" slit in end of the old strip and end of the new strip. b.) Insert a few inches of the end of new strip through the slit of old strip, and stick the far end of the new strip through the slit of the new strip and pull the tail all the way through. Give it a bit of a tug, helping with your fingers, and the join kind of melds with itself without a bulky knot. 4. Braid all the material you have into one very big pile. You can finish the ends off by taking several stitches, in place, through all three layers of material and making a knot. This tacks the three ends together without making a bulky knob. 5. Starting with one end of the long braid, begin coiling. As you were braiding, you always try to keep the side of the braid facing you nice and neat. So when you are coiling and stitching now, keep the "untidy" side of your braid facing "up". I opted to make an oblong-shaped rug by keeping the first about 1 foot of the braid straight, and coiling the rest of the braid around it. Stitch the adjacent braid together as you coil the braid. In the photo you can see the relative placement of my ladder stitches, using heavy thread (quilting thread in this case). I would take about 20 stitches and then pull the thread taught. 6. I used a heavy cloth that i had on hand, as the backing. I know most rag rugs don't need a backing, but my rug seems a little loose, and it can't be handled roughly without becoming deformed, so it needs the support of a backing. In case the rug you make also ends up needing a little extra support, i include my directions for backing it here. I basted (heavy black thread in the photo) the backing fabric to the rug, taking a small stitch completely through the braid, and a longer stitch on the back. I found that on the front side of the rug, this small stitch usually disappeared into the many little crevasses of the braid and were almost unnoticeable from the front side. (But it would be wise to more or less match your thread color to your rug color.) The stitching pattern is unimportant, but i started by making a cross, then did a star pattern, and then filled in the big gaps with squiggles. 7. I turned the edge of the backing fabric under in a double fold hem and stitched it down to the rug, securing it only to the back surface of the braids (not taking the stitch straight through to the front). I didn't measure the length of the braid it took to make this 3 1/2 foot rug, but 22 old t-shirts are still being used daily, and have the appreciation of a happy kitty.
DIY Corbels A Simple & Easy Project
My hubby and three teenaged boys wear out a lot of t-shirts and jeans, and i can't bring myself to throw them away. The jeans turn into c...
My hubby and three teenaged boys wear out a lot of t-shirts and jeans, and i can't bring myself to throw them away. The jeans turn into c...
My hubby and three teenaged boys wear out a lot of t-shirts and jeans, and i can't bring myself to throw them away. The jeans turn into car blanket sort of quilts, but the i never knew what was in store for the t-shirts until i realized a person could make braided rag rugs with them. This is a quick step-by-step of my process, but please do additional web research in order to get additional options. Used: old t-shirts (22 were used in this project) fabric scissors heavy thread (eg. quilting thread) large needle backing fabric (about 1.5 yd, depending on your finished rug size) 1. I picked all of the red, grey, black and khaki green t-shirts out of my mountain of old cotton. Using my sharp fabric scissors i cut off the bottom hem of the shirt (discard it), and then cut in a single, continuous, upwards spiral around the t-shirt, eyeballing a strip width of 2-2 1/2 inches. Terminate your strip when you run into the armhole seam. 2. If you pull gently lengthwise on each strip, the fabric edges tend to curl in on itself from the sides. I put the ends of three long strips together, inner side of the fabric facing up (the edges thereby curl away from you and you don't see the raw edges), and pinned them to a heavy window curtain. You use the natural curl to make the strips more rope-like, which makes them easy to braid neatly. You may be able to think of something else to pin the braid to, but i found it comfortable to work standing, the braid pinned at about eye level, and then i could braid quickly for 3 feet or so, before unpinning and raising the braid up and re-pinning at about eye level again to continue braiding. You want the braid to be fairly tight. 3. To coil the rug, you want one super long length of braid. When you come to the end of one t-shirt strip while you are braiding, you add another strip to it. Here is a really handy method, which avoids the hard bump a knot would make: *Adding strips end-to-end: a.) Cut a 1/2" slit in end of the old strip and end of the new strip. b.) Insert a few inches of the end of new strip through the slit of old strip, and stick the far end of the new strip through the slit of the new strip and pull the tail all the way through. Give it a bit of a tug, helping with your fingers, and the join kind of melds with itself without a bulky knot. 4. Braid all the material you have into one very big pile. You can finish the ends off by taking several stitches, in place, through all three layers of material and making a knot. This tacks the three ends together without making a bulky knob. 5. Starting with one end of the long braid, begin coiling. As you were braiding, you always try to keep the side of the braid facing you nice and neat. So when you are coiling and stitching now, keep the "untidy" side of your braid facing "up". I opted to make an oblong-shaped rug by keeping the first about 1 foot of the braid straight, and coiling the rest of the braid around it. Stitch the adjacent braid together as you coil the braid. In the photo you can see the relative placement of my ladder stitches, using heavy thread (quilting thread in this case). I would take about 20 stitches and then pull the thread taught. 6. I used a heavy cloth that i had on hand, as the backing. I know most rag rugs don't need a backing, but my rug seems a little loose, and it can't be handled roughly without becoming deformed, so it needs the support of a backing. In case the rug you make also ends up needing a little extra support, i include my directions for backing it here. I basted (heavy black thread in the photo) the backing fabric to the rug, taking a small stitch completely through the braid, and a longer stitch on the back. I found that on the front side of the rug, this small stitch usually disappeared into the many little crevasses of the braid and were almost unnoticeable from the front side. (But it would be wise to more or less match your thread color to your rug color.) The stitching pattern is unimportant, but i started by making a cross, then did a star pattern, and then filled in the big gaps with squiggles. 7. I turned the edge of the backing fabric under in a double fold hem and stitched it down to the rug, securing it only to the back surface of the braids (not taking the stitch straight through to the front). I didn't measure the length of the braid it took to make this 3 1/2 foot rug, but 22 old t-shirts are still being used daily, and have the appreciation of a happy kitty.
Hey readers! I realized that one of the things I can do while I'm working on top secret projects is to put together little mini tutorials without showing an entire garment. For instance, right now I'm working on developing a classic 40s style blouse pattern. A project like this usually takes me several tries in fabric, which is a plus because then I end up with several new blouses in my wardrobe! So the one you see here won't actually end up in my next book, it's just part of my process. I've written about shaping a tailored jacket collar with steam, but it's worth mentioning that you can do the same thing with an interfaced shirt collar. Going through these steps will give you a shirt collar that stands up and rolls around your neck nicely. What you're doing is "training" it into shape with steam. Here's how it works. First, interface the upper collar only. I'm using a soft sew-in interfacing, which gets basted to the collar piece. (Yes, I know I'm not going to win any awards for the aesthetics of my basting stitches.) Pin it to the under collar, right sides together. Stitch around the outer edges. I like to take one stitch diagonally across the corner to get a crisper point. Trim down the corners. Grade the seam allowances so that the upper collar seam allowance is about 1/4" wide and the under collar seam allowance is about 1/8" wide. Turn right side out and use a pin to pull the corner out. Press so that the seam line rolls toward the under collar (this way it won't show on the outside of the collar). (Note: yes, those are little animal heads hidden among the polka dots on this print. It's a Japanese double gauze made by Kokka. Amazing, right? Purchased at Hart's Fabrics in Santa Cruz.) Pin the collar to a tailor's ham, arranging the roll of the collar as desired. Remember that you still have a neckline seam allowance on the collar, so take that into account as you're pinning. I make the stand of my collar about 1 inch tall. Steam well (do not press down on the collar, just apply lots of steam to it) and leave to dry for at least several hours. When you remove it from the ham and sew it to your shirt, you'll have a nicely shaped roll on your collar! P.S. For a hardcore shirt collar tutorial, check out Pam's blog. I've been meaning to try her method because it looks awesome!
Anyway, because I like to brag about him and show off his work, here's some more finish carpentry ideas for you...
Top 5 reasons why the Block Stitch (Chocolate Box) is the best crochet stitch ever, with free patterns for booties and blankets!
So here goes…. My hubby, which I must say is the best hubby in the world, helped me with building a tomato cage Christmas tree. Could I have done this myself or with my daughter? Absolutely! …
Free Turkeys!One of my most favorite and most popular designs is a silly cooked turkey hat I made for my youngest son several years ago. Have you made a hat from this pattern? If so, please scroll down and share a picture. I would love to see! It turned out so much cuter than I ...
My hubby and three teenaged boys wear out a lot of t-shirts and jeans, and i can't bring myself to throw them away. The jeans turn into car blanket sort of quilts, but the i never knew what was in store for the t-shirts until i realized a person could make braided rag rugs with them. This is a quick step-by-step of my process, but please do additional web research in order to get additional options. Used: old t-shirts (22 were used in this project) fabric scissors heavy thread (eg. quilting thread) large needle backing fabric (about 1.5 yd, depending on your finished rug size) 1. I picked all of the red, grey, black and khaki green t-shirts out of my mountain of old cotton. Using my sharp fabric scissors i cut off the bottom hem of the shirt (discard it), and then cut in a single, continuous, upwards spiral around the t-shirt, eyeballing a strip width of 2-2 1/2 inches. Terminate your strip when you run into the armhole seam. 2. If you pull gently lengthwise on each strip, the fabric edges tend to curl in on itself from the sides. I put the ends of three long strips together, inner side of the fabric facing up (the edges thereby curl away from you and you don't see the raw edges), and pinned them to a heavy window curtain. You use the natural curl to make the strips more rope-like, which makes them easy to braid neatly. You may be able to think of something else to pin the braid to, but i found it comfortable to work standing, the braid pinned at about eye level, and then i could braid quickly for 3 feet or so, before unpinning and raising the braid up and re-pinning at about eye level again to continue braiding. You want the braid to be fairly tight. 3. To coil the rug, you want one super long length of braid. When you come to the end of one t-shirt strip while you are braiding, you add another strip to it. Here is a really handy method, which avoids the hard bump a knot would make: *Adding strips end-to-end: a.) Cut a 1/2" slit in end of the old strip and end of the new strip. b.) Insert a few inches of the end of new strip through the slit of old strip, and stick the far end of the new strip through the slit of the new strip and pull the tail all the way through. Give it a bit of a tug, helping with your fingers, and the join kind of melds with itself without a bulky knot. 4. Braid all the material you have into one very big pile. You can finish the ends off by taking several stitches, in place, through all three layers of material and making a knot. This tacks the three ends together without making a bulky knob. 5. Starting with one end of the long braid, begin coiling. As you were braiding, you always try to keep the side of the braid facing you nice and neat. So when you are coiling and stitching now, keep the "untidy" side of your braid facing "up". I opted to make an oblong-shaped rug by keeping the first about 1 foot of the braid straight, and coiling the rest of the braid around it. Stitch the adjacent braid together as you coil the braid. In the photo you can see the relative placement of my ladder stitches, using heavy thread (quilting thread in this case). I would take about 20 stitches and then pull the thread taught. 6. I used a heavy cloth that i had on hand, as the backing. I know most rag rugs don't need a backing, but my rug seems a little loose, and it can't be handled roughly without becoming deformed, so it needs the support of a backing. In case the rug you make also ends up needing a little extra support, i include my directions for backing it here. I basted (heavy black thread in the photo) the backing fabric to the rug, taking a small stitch completely through the braid, and a longer stitch on the back. I found that on the front side of the rug, this small stitch usually disappeared into the many little crevasses of the braid and were almost unnoticeable from the front side. (But it would be wise to more or less match your thread color to your rug color.) The stitching pattern is unimportant, but i started by making a cross, then did a star pattern, and then filled in the big gaps with squiggles. 7. I turned the edge of the backing fabric under in a double fold hem and stitched it down to the rug, securing it only to the back surface of the braids (not taking the stitch straight through to the front). I didn't measure the length of the braid it took to make this 3 1/2 foot rug, but 22 old t-shirts are still being used daily, and have the appreciation of a happy kitty.
My favourite little girl, Piper, turned one year old a couple of weeks ago and I thought, what better way to mark this momentous occasion than with a great big gift - one that will last for a long, long time (I hope). I originally saw the plans on Ana White's site. She called it the "Kendra storage console". Ana is the goddess of wooden furniture building. Her plans were inspired by a Pottery Barn storage console that sells for over $200 - but you can build it yourself for less. Ana's plans result in a bookcase/box that is about 18" x 23" square and 24" high. We wanted ours to be a little larger so that Piper could continue to use it as she got older, so we decided on 24" x 26" and 30" high. Because it was larger overall, we went with 1x3 boards instead of the 1x2s listed in the original instructions. With the change in dimensions, we had to do a little trial and error to get exactly what we wanted, but all in all, this project shouldn't take you more than a weekend, including staining or painting it. Instructions: We started by cutting the side pieces - the front and back upright pieces and the bottom cross piece - and joining them together. That second cross piece in the picture is just there to keep everything square, it isn't attached. Take a look at how much use our fold-up worktable is getting. All that paint, stain, and tool marks show just how truly loved it is. We drilled pocket holes to hide the screws that would join the pieces together. We have a Kreg Jig R3 (ie. the Kreg Jr.) to position the holes correctly. This guy is just $40 and is a lifesaver. We used it to hide the screws when we built the sofa table as well. You just line up where you want the holes to be using the grey sliders on the sides of the jig, clamp the jig to your board, and drill the holes using the guides. The screw heads are hidden and the holes can be puttied over. The angled rail that runs from the top shelf to the front of the box was next. The easiest way to find the angle for this piece is to take the uncut length of board that will be the rail and put the bottom corner of it against the top inside corner of the front upright board. (See the first picture on the left, below.) The other end of the rail should be resting on the inside corner of the back upright board (like in the top right picture, below). Take a ruler or straight edge, line it up with the inside edge of the front board, and draw a line straight up from the corner. Cut the rail along this line. Put the board back where you had it with that newly cut edge now in place along the side of the upright board and the other end resting again on the front corner of the back board. (See middle picture.) Take your straight edge, line it up with the top of the upright board, and draw a line horizontally straight across the rail board. (See top right picture again.) Cut along this line. Using a pocket screw, attach the bottom end of the rail to the upright board. To attach the upper end, you'll use a piece of 1x1 or 1x2 that will run along the inside of the bookshelf, across both boards. This piece will also act as additional support for the top shelf.You can cut it to the length of the top of the frame, or you can angle it like we did so that it matches the angle of the rail. Attach the support piece with countersunk screws. (See bottom picture.) Once the four framing pieces were secured, we added the middle upright boards. To measure the length, you just need to stand each of your boards on the bottom rail and trace the angle of the top rail (the underside of it) with a pencil. Cut the boards at the marked angle, drill pocket holes at the top and bottom, and attach with screws. We put the pocket hole at the top of each board on the side so that it was less visible. The middle bookshelf board will also need a support. Taking a piece of 1x1 or 1x2, you'll cut a shelf support for each side that is no longer than the depth of the shelf. Ours was 9 inches deep. We cut the front of each support at 45 degrees angling downwards so that it would be less visible from the front. These supports are attached to the inside of each side "frame" at the depth you've decided on - ours was about 9 inches from the top. Then you repeat this all over again for the other side of the box. Make sure that you're always attaching your pocket screws on the inside! The front of the box was very simple. There are two upright support boards and three cross boards. One thing to note is that the upright boards sit in front of the sides to make the corner, so make sure you include that extra distance when you're measuring to cut your cross boards. These boards were then attached to each other using pocket screws. You'll also want to make sure that the bottom horizontal board lines up with the horizontal board on the sides. Before you attach the three sides together you'll want to add the supports for the floorboard of the box. These supports can again be 1x1s or 1x2s. When attaching the supports, make sure that all three are the same depth from the bottom and level so that when the floor of the box is inserted it lays flat. The sides and front can now be attached to each other. To make it easier, you can clamp the corners together and set the floorboard in place - this will help you keep the frame square. The corners were secured using countersunk screws straight through the front at the same height as the three cross boards. The floorboard can now be screwed into place using countersunk screws at each of the corners and along each side. We used a sheet of 1/4 inch plywood with a birch veneer for the bottom. We also cut and attached a support piece for underneath the floorboard along the back of the box that would be attached to the backing board once it was installed. The middle shelf can now be cut and attached. Measure the width of the floor board and cut your shelf board to match. Attach countersunk screws up through the underside of the shelf supports to secure it to the frame. The backing board comes next. We used plywood again, but some that was thinner than the floorboard as it didn't need to support any weight. Measure from the top of the frame to the bottom of the floorboard support and from side to side. Cut your plywood and attach it to the frame using small finishing nails. Make sure that you also attach the backing board to the middle shelf to give it a little extra support and to keep the backing board from bowing out away from the bookcase. We cut the top board so that it overhung the sides of the frame by about a half inch and attached it so that it sat on top of the backing board and was flush with it. This top board is not as deep as the middle shelf - about 7 inches. You could also have the board hang over the back slightly so that the top is always against the wall, even if there's a baseboard stopping the legs from being flush (my carpenter man forgot to do that.) I puttied all of the (visible) holes and sanded them smooth so there were no exposed screws or sharp edges. I sanded the heck out of this thing. First with 60 grit paper, then with 100 grit, and finally with 220 grit. I wanted to match their nursery furniture which is a dark mahogany colour. I put a coat of Minwax dark walnut stain on first because I didn't think the mahogany stain would be dark enough. In retrospect, I think I should have left it out as I wasn't able to get the colour as red as I wanted. But anyway, after the walnut, I applied two coats of Minwax red mahogany stain, and then two coats of furniture wax. After buffing the wax, I went over all of it with steel wool to make it even smoother. I've written before (and here, too) about the benefit of using steel wool after waxing. I can't recommend it enough - your wood surface will feel like silk. What a beauty! Then it was time for a bit of staging to get an idea of what it would look like in use. We scrounged all around the house to fill up the toybox. (That's Piper's mommy and daddy in the framed picture.) How many people reading this noticed that most of the toys in the box are dog toys? That's all we have around here, but we have plenty of them. I added some colourful books (by Christopher Moore - not child appropriate at all, but very, very funny) and a few keepsakes. We're pretty proud of this one. I showed photos of it to my boss, he told his wife about it, and I think we may have some orders in our future!
O jongens, wat ben ik moe! Een hele week kijk ik uit naar zo'n zaterdag-avond-met-niks-gepland, en dan is het zover en dan zak ik als een plumpudding in. Hebben jullie dat ook? Maar de buikjes zijn weer gevuld, Miriam heeft lekkere caketjes gebakken met chocoladetopping, en we gaan lekker genieten van het weekend. Ik wil nog wel even kwijt dat ik deze week heel veel bloglezers heb ontmoet (en gemaild) en daar erg van heb genoten. Sommigen komen van ver (Ridderkerk!!), en ik hoop maar dat mijn winkeltje dan niet "tegenvalt". Mijn hoofd met ideeën is groter dan mijn winkel-oppervlakte.... Nu nog een ideetje: Leuk he? Uit deze grappige beker wil iedereen toch drinken? Je kunt het gratis patroon downloaden via Ravelry (engels), maar met wat fantasie kun je dit ook wel zelf. Zo grappig dat met wat kleur, knoopjes en wat breiwerk een aapje tevoorschijn komt. Past ook prima om een blikje cola!
Mother’s Day has come and gone (we hope you had a great one!), and before you know it, Father’s Day will be upon us. So why not get a head s...
Since we had a limited budget on our backyard project, my cute hubby, AKA Awesomeness, designed our inground trampoline plan. Dan had searched online for days. A good tutorial was no where to be found.
I don't know about you, but I love me some YHL (aka: "Young House Love"). I seriously stalk their page daily to read their new posts and search the old ones for inspiration! :) Well, Sherry from YHL and Katie from Bower Power came up with the... From Fall Family Pics I was at a lost as to what to do for my project, I mean, have you ever visited Pinterest? It is inspiration overload! I will get on for just a minute to look for something, and two hours later I am still pining!!! LOL! Well I was sick this week and looking around as I laid dying on the couch ;) . I started moving things around in my head (I have decorating super powers, haha). I knew if I moved my Art Blocks to a different wall I could use that space for this... From Fall Family Pics Enter Shelley from house of Smiths AMAZING-NESS!!! Sick or not I had to have these shelves asap! So the next day off to Lowe's I ran, there I met Travis, my Lowe's handy helper (sorry only a mom of two little ones who watches Disney channel all morning long will get my humour), LOL. From November 4, 2011 Cole was very excited to be Travis' big helper. He wanted to hold Travis' hand as we walked over to the lumber. From November 4, 2011 From November 4, 2011 There we found a 5 1/2 inch x 8 ft board for $9.16 ( and it was pre primed), SCORE! From November 4, 2011 From November 4, 2011 Next we went over to the decorative trim section and found this case molding, 10ft for $8.80. From November 4, 2011 In the same section was the wooden brackets, which were 4 for $3.34. From November 4, 2011 Here is where the AWESOME part comes in ... Lowe's did almost all my cutting for me! I had him cut the 5 1/2 in board down to 42 inches, and 32 inches. ( Because of where my studs were on the wall I could not fit 3ft and 4ft shelves.) Next he cut my trim to 44 inches and 34 inches and 4 pieces at 6 1/2 inch (to leave room for the miter cut) I only had to do 8 miter cuts at home, which saved me some serious time! From November 4, 2011 After we thanked Travis for his great costumer service we were back in the car and home in 45 mins flat for the total trip. Talk about instant gratification! Next I made the 4 miter cuts and used my brad nailer to nail it together in 20 mins, we are doing good! I found the can of stain from our kitchen cabinets and added one coat to the brackets with a foam brush. I really wanted to stain my brackets to play on the contrast from the shelves and tie into my cabinets since they are right across from them! From November 4, 2011 From November 4, 2011 While they dried I caulked all the holes and cracks. I left it over night to dry and painted it with 2 coats in the morning. My canned tomatoes were perfect for painting blocks. Next, I found where my studs were and hung both sets of brackets, then added the white shelves on top, and shot 2 brad nails from the top into the top of the brackets. Now it was time to decorate... From November 4, 2011 Looking around the house I found a few things here and there and threw this together... Not bad for not buying a thing. Can you believe I found those cute little berry branches on a tree in our yard! ;) Added a little vinyl and I was finished! Before: From November 4, 2011 After: From November 4, 2011 Morning Light From November 4, 2011 Cost Break Down: 5 1/2 inch 8ft board $ 9.16 Case Molding 10ft $ 8.80 4 wooden brackets $ 13.36 paint and stain already had caulk already had Total : $ 31.32 Ballard Design shelves are $89 for the 3ft, and $109 for the 4ft both together are $198 That is a $166.68 saving!!! Hope you have a great weekend, and make something GREAT!!! Thanks for stopping by, Jeni
Looking for a fun date night with your husband? Why not try a treasure hunt date night? It's fun and easy and doesn't have to cost much.
A journal blogger who gushes with excitement... telling the various stories of my life and lessons learned. And making people laugh along the way!
Hi Everyone! I’m beyond excited to be blogging at HOH today! My name is Emily and I am visiting from On the V Side, where I write about home decor, DIY, my sassy Redhead and life, in general, at Casa V. In my world, “HOH” stands for “Hooked on Hepworths”… ’cause I am. I found […]
Since we had a limited budget on our backyard project, my cute hubby, AKA Awesomeness, designed our inground trampoline plan. Dan had searched online for days. A good tutorial was no where to be found.
This Old House general contractor Tom Silva explains what to look for when hiring a pro for your remodel.
He can’t blame his family. He’s a hard guy to shop for. And he will never admit that he thoroughly enjoys a vase of tulips. The problem with these Father’s Day gifts is that his closet floor is becoming more and more catastrophic with all those ties splayed about. It’s time for him to clean up his act and get his ties ordered and tidy. Maybe he might even integrate a few new ties into his standard wardrobe. Below are 14 ways to organize those ties for any type of organizer. source: Pinterest The Shower Curtain Hanger Shower curtain rings are extremely inexpensive and can be crammed on a hanger, depending on how many you need. No need to remove them each time; the tie will slide right through. I would recommend a sturdy hanger. You don’t realize how heavy ties can be until you’re holding 50. source: Pinterest The Shoe Slots This shoe hanger might be able to hold about 12 pairs of shoes. Convert it into a tie container, and you’ve got room for over 70 ties. Put it behind the closet door to keep it hidden. source: Church Street Designs The Bottle Crate DIYers can let themselves get carried away arranging the size and number of slots from this old bottle crate. Paint it to go with you room and hang it on the wall as a cute decoration. Or slide it in a drawer and out of sight. source: Indulgy The Decorative Wardrobe Like all your accessories to be displayed? Or maybe you would just like all your ties to be in full view when you change. Add as many hooks to the wall as you need. For a picturesque display, add a frame of crown molding around all the hooks for a decorative effect. source: Pinterest The Clothes Pin Hangers This is a project your kids can get in on. Add a clothes pin per tie on the side of a shelf or along the bottom of a hanger. They are just as easy to put away as they are is to grab. source: Space Manager The Closet Siding Such a great use for wasted wall space. You can use any kind of pole from nice closet rods to cheap and easy PVC pipes. A hundred or more ties will fit with a clear view and easy access to each. source: Amazon The Store Bought Clips Not the biggest fan of DIY projects? This a great store bought option. The ties slide easily onto the clips, and the rod can be placed on any wall. source: Rev-A-Shelf The Side Storage Another store bought option. This shelf can be installed to the side of any dresser. A good way to keep your ties visible and out of the way. source: The Nest The Dividing Container This cute and lightweight box will keep several of your ties cozy as they wait for your use. Buy a few for extra storage. These will fit neatly anywhere from in a drawer to on a shelf to under the bed. source: Cedar Hill Farmhouse The Peg Board Have an extra square of space on the wall? Instead of a picture, consider a peg board to show off all your neat ties. Not only decorative, but useful as it keeps all your ties visible as you get ready for the day. source: Amazon The Fancy Revolver Even men once dreamed of an electronic revolving closet. A taste of his dream can come true with this revolving tie hanger. Hang it in the closet or on the wall. source: Kiddoodles Inc. The Ties Within the Tie Another store bought find. This tie holder can hold several ties and will only take up as much room as your favorite shirt. source: The 30 Day Diaries The Tie Hanger Slide as many ties as you want on the pegs and it will hang nice and compact in the closet or on the door. source: MacGyverisms The Cute Knobs This project is so cute it can be placed right in the open as decoration for your room. Paint it any colors you like. Add funky knobs or even more to increase storage. Or keep it to just a few for his favorite go-to ties. Like the article? We bet you’ll love this book: After staying home with his two sons for a year and his daughter since her infancy, Tim Myers knows all about being a stay-at-home parent. He knows the most effective cleaning products, which ... Glad to Be Dad Tim J. Myers Buy Now
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Last week I shared with you how to grow a better lawn based on what I learned from my education at Pennington Seed. Part of growing a more beautiful lawn is learning how to water it properly. Did
Head to Paper Coterie to get your Printable Love Notes ! They are so cute and perfect for leaving just about anywhere! Leave some for y...
