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I've been messing around with this idea for awhile, using paper to upholster a chair. I know fabric is sometimes hard to come by. I keep trying to direct you all to quilt shops. They will have the 100% percent cotton that will always glue for you. The Goodwill and other thrift stores are a good place to look, too. Silk blouses are really cheap there and that's a good fabric to use, too. Silk ties are a good source of fabric if you like the design. You would need a couple of them for a chair, though. I went to Michaels and bought a tablet of scrap book paper to use. My Michaels was woefully low on separate sheets so I settled on a $5.00 special tablet. This won't be for everyone but I thought I would give it a try for something different. Here are your patterns for a chair. Use the directions in the "Things to do, Things to see" list at the left of the blog "HOW TO RE-SIZE THE PATTERNS" to get them to 1 inch scale. Print them out onto card stock to trace your patterns. I have included an alternate back and back cushion if some of you want a single back instead of a two part back. Always dry fit your parts. This is important to do before you are committed with glue. Of course my paper was double sided. I tried a few methods to get the two layers apart. The best method was to wad the paper up a few times to loosen the layers; I then carefully pulled the layers apart. If you try this with single layer paper you don't have to do this step. The ball on the left is when I began with both layers together. The ball on the right is after I carefully wadded and un-wadded the paper. You will have to spend time on the wadding and un-wadding to get the paper soft and pliable. After I got the paper soft and pliable I ironed it with steam on a cotton setting. The paper is still pliable enough to use. This ironing took a lot of the wrinkles out. I would think that paper has it's differences and this method may not work on all scrap booking paper. To build the chair begin with cutting four layers foam core and two layers mat board for the seat base. Glue them together with tacky glue. I place a weight, like a book on top of the stack until the glue dries. I usually wait at least a couple of hours. Trace and cut out the back and the front from mat board. The back is not as wide as the front. Center the back over the front. Turn the set over and trace the front onto the back. We use these lines when building the chair. If you don't have a saw that can cut angles you can skip doing this. To keep the chair from looking too boxy I tip out the upper back. Use a ruler and the back edge of your craft knife to score a line all across the back on the line you just drew. Don't cut through. Carefully tip the upper back to bend it slightly. Center the back onto the back of the seat base and glue them together. There should be about a 1/16" left on each side. Center the front onto the front of the seat base and glue them together. There should be about a 1/16" left on each side. This is what you should have. I use 1/2" diameter dowels for the arms. These are cut with a 7 degree angle on one end (the back). I set my saw to 2 1/4" and cut the dowels. I then set the angle of the blade to 7 degrees and re-cut the dowels. If you have an adjustable miter saw you can do this. I measured my dowel and along the short side is 2 3/8". The long side is 2 1/4". If you can't cut the angles cut the dowels to 2 1/4" long. Yes, I do use the little plastic clamps. I have the other kind you get at the big box stores. Most of the time they aren't long enough for what I want. Glue the dowels between the front and the back. Hold onto the chair until the glue tacks or use clamps. Leave this to dry, really dry. Side view. Cut a strip of foam core 1/4" wide. This will be for the braces. Cut two strips to fit between the front and back. Glue them in. Cut two more strips to fit further up the arm. Glue them in. These will support the card stock arm covers. Cut two end/sides from mat board. Bend it slightly at the top. Apply glue to the chair. Glue the end/side into the side of the chair. This fits between the front and the back. I wanted to show you the difference of the sides. Paper has a grain, like wood. I cut these two pieces laying opposite ways. You can see that the bottom piece was easier to bend and also looks nicer. Experiment to find the grain of your mat board. This also holds true for card stock. Are you dry fitting? Be sure to dry fit and trim if needed. Use the arm cover pattern to trace onto card stock two arm covers. To make gluing easier I run the top of the cover over the edge of my table and then I roll it using a pencil. Apply glue to the foam core braces and the dowel. Apply the glue all around the dowel. This piece fits between the front and the back mat board pieces. The cut out area fits at the back. Glue the arm roll cover to the arms. Glue the card stock over and onto the dowels. Your chair is built. Place the chair onto card stock and trace around the bottom edge. This is your bottom cover. I use glue stick to glue the paper/fabric to the card stock. If you want use fabric for covering the chair that's just fine. Cut the bottom cover out and apply glue stick to it and glue it to the wrong side of the paper. Trim the paper leaving around a 1/4" extra. Use tacky glue to glue all the card stock covers to the chair. Glue the bottom cover to the bottom of the chair. Apply tacky glue to the bottom edge and glue the extra paper to the chair. Trim off the triangles at the corners. Use the arm roll cover pattern to cut your batting. I use Thermolam Plus, no iron, from Pellon. Walmart used to carry this, no more, at least for now. A thin batting will work, buy this from a bolt. Don't buy a quilt batting in a plastic bag, that will be too fluffy. Apply tacky glue to the arm cover. Gently press your batting onto the arm. Leave about an 1/8" gap under the arm. This will insure a crisp line of paper. Cut out enough paper to fit over the arm. Use the arm roll cover pattern as a guide. Begin gluing under the arm. You can do both sides like this now. Leave this to dry for a while. You will pull on this a bit, not as much as you would if using fabric but you will pull and this needs to be dry. After the glue is dry you may begin to cover the arm. Pull the paper over the arm. Cut a slash at the beginning of the back. Carefully pull the paper over the arm and mark the corner with a pencil. The firmer the pull the less wrinkles we will deal with at the front and back of the arms. Cut out a square from the corner you marked. Cut notches in the paper so it can fit over the curve. Glue the paper to the seat base and to the back of the chair Cut a slash into the corner. Trim off the extra paper at the end of the arm to about a 1/8". Cut notches around the curve of the arm. Glue the paper down to the front of the arm. This is the front. This is the back. Cut a piece of foam core a 1/4" wide to fit into the back of your chair. Glue this piece into the back of the chair. This piece tips out the bottom of the back cushion. To make the side covers use card stock. Place the card stock on the chair, lining up the top with the bottom of the dowel and the side with the front of the chair. Trace around the bottom and the back. Cut this out. Dry fitting and trimming if needed. Apply glue stick to the side cover and press onto the wrong side of the paper. Cut out the corners as in the picture. Glue the top and the bottom to the card stock. Glue the side cover onto the chair. Cut notches out from the extra paper and glue the paper to the back of the chair. Cut notches from the paper and glue the paper to the front of the chair. Dry fitting the back cushions. I have an alternate back pattern for those that do not to want to make a two part back cushion. The top edge of the back cushions need to be softened. I do this with my thumbnail. This is how they should look. The backs will have three layers of batting. The first layer is about a 1/4" smaller all around. Apply tacky glue to the foam core and glue the first layer on. The second layer is the same size as the cushion. The third layer is cut to size every where but the top. The top is pulled over the top of the back. The third layer on the front of the cushion. Apply a little tacky glue to the edge of the batting on the sides and bottom. Don't apply glue at the top. Place the cushion into the chair and trim off the extra. I've got both cushions with batting. They have both been trimmed. Cut paper large enough to cover the cushion. Begin with gluing up the bottom. Trim as shown in the picture. Cut notches in the curved area and glue the paper to the foam core. Set the cushion into the chair and cut a slash at the top to match the where the back is dipped. Apply glue to the top of back and to the bit of foam core on the seat base. Glue your back cushion into the chair. This is what the back should look like. Trim the paper and cut notches out. Glue the paper to the back of the chair. Getting ready to glue the other back cushion in. The other back cushion is in the chair. The paper is trimmed and the notches are cut. The paper is glued down. Looking good. I wanted to show you a close up of the texture of the paper. Trace the back pattern onto card stock to make a back cover. Apply glue stick to the back cover and glue it to the wrong side of the paper. Cut notches along the curved areas. Apply tacky glue to the card stock and glue the paper down. Apply tacky glue to the back of the chair and glue the back cover to the chair. Trace the front cover pattern onto card stock and cut out. Apply glue stick to it and glue it to the wrong side of the paper. Trim around the front cover cutting notches around the curved areas. Apply tacky glue to the card stock and glue the paper down. Leave the top un-glued. Apply tacky glue to the front of the chair and glue the front cover on. Glue down the paper that is at the top of the front cover to the top of the seat base. Dry fitting my seat cushion. The first layer of batting for the seat cushion is about a 1/4" smaller all around. The second layer fits all around. Apply tacky glue and glue the first and second layers onto the seat cushion. The third layer is glued to the bottom of the cushion. This will go up the front and over the top. The top is not glued down. Cut out enough paper to cover the cushion. Glue the front and back to the bottom of the cushion. Make sure the batting is trimmed to the foam core. If any batting is left hanging over it will make it difficult to glue the paper down or fabric for that matter. Fold the sides as in the picture and glue down. Fold the paper down and glue. Trim off the extra. Carefully remove any glue before trying your cushion. Yes, I am making piping. Apply tacky glue to the edge of the paper. Smooth the glue out to the edge of the paper. I use size 10 crochet thread. Press the thread onto the glue. Fold the paper over the thread. The thread has to be in the very fold of the paper. I fold with one hand and push the thread over to the right with the other thumb. This tightens the thread and makes it easier to get it into the fold. I don't know if that helps you or not. For fabric I use my nails to seal the thread down. For the paper I found that setting the edge of this ruler close to the thread works better. Don't slide the ruler, set it down and move on. Flip the paper over and do it on the other side. I did this a couple of times on both sides. Cut your piping away from the paper. Apply glue to the seam where the back cover meets the chair. Start at the bottom back and over the arm, over the top, over the other arm and down to the other back corner. I apply glue to the seam where the front cover meets the chair and apply the piping to the front of each arm. Apply glue to the edge of the seat cushion and apply the piping. I only apply piping to the front half of the bottom of the cushion. This is an option. I added a piece of piping along the seam where the two back cushions meet. The piping is on. Fourteen to sixteen inches is what I used for the length of the ruffle. I had to glue two pieces of paper together. Make the overlap about a 1/8". Larger and it will interfere with your gathers. I first turned a hem and glued it down. Measure from the bottom of the hem 1". Draw your line on the right side of the paper. Fold on that line. Trim off the paper to 1/2". Apply glue to the edge. Smear the glue towards the cut edge. We don't want too much glue in this tube. This is 26 gauge covered wire, I eventually switched to 20 gauge covered wire because the 26 gauge would not push through my tube. Go ahead and fold the paper over and glue it down. So we've made a hem and a rod pocket for the wire to be threaded into. You can see my 20 gauge wire now. Carefully thread the wire through the tube, gathering a little bit as you go. The paper will not push together a long bunch of gathers. When you have the length and the amount of gathers you like cut the wire and bend it back as in the picture. I have both ends bent, the paper is covering the wire a bit on the left. I made a deep ruffle for this chair, I thought it fit with the spirit of the chair. Apply tacky glue along the front edge. Press the ruffle into the glue, holding it a bit to tack. I had to have my end seam on the side because I made my overlap too large and it interfered with my ruffling! When I came to the end I straightened out my ending wire and glued the paper to it. I then cut the wire so that it butted up to my beginning ruffle. So, how did you like that? You know I am going to use this in my attic. I liked the experiment and could see me using the paper again if I found something that was "just the thing". Have fun, Expand on it, Make it better . . . Just Keep Making Minis!! Talk to you later, Kris

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Hey ladies, hope your week is going great so far! Today I wanted to share the DIY doll house the hubs made our little princess. This barbie house gets SO much use. She plays with it all the time, it made all the hours making it pure heaven to see her enjoy it. Even her brothers have used it much to her protest! Some where along the lines they decided its cool for cars to roll off the second story and the decks. It's funny to see how different they place with it, I love it! It started out from a tree from my in laws property. They have 26 acres. The tree was cut down, dried, and ran through a saw mill they have. Then I got busy figuring out a fun layout, and the hubs started out on the build.  This was the frame    Then he added roof shingles that were left over from when we had to redo our roof forever ago. Its nice to use what you already have. Plus, it helped it look like more authentic. This part of adding the siding piece by piece was definitely the longest! I know he thought at one point he was never going to finish this part, but it was ohhh so worth it! My friend told me about a small family owned carpet store that would give you free carpet squares they didn't need. So off I went. We ended up with such varied colors but she loves it.  It's hard to tell from the picture but its about 5 feet tall.  The hubs even made stairs leading from the garage to the house, cause that will totally make life easier for Barbie to get in the house when she has on those high heels of hers! Are you on picture over load yet? So that's our DIY barbie house. It hardly cost a thing, which makes it even more fun. We used our in laws amazing wood from their property, (thank you, guys!!) got free carpet squares and only had to buy a bit of paint. I must admit the boys aren't the only ones that sneak and play with it. (wink wink) Post Script: We have had lots of request for the plans for the Barbie House. We didnt use any specific "plans" to make it. We really based the room size around the carpet squares we got. But here are the measurments of the house. Hope this helps some. We would love to see pictures if any of you make one. You can use the email address listed at the top of our blog! Happy Building! Here's the measurements: The outer shell of the house it self; 38w x20d x 60h The room sizes are; 19w x 20d x 15h The top two decks are 12w x 20d The bottom deck my daughter uses as a garage because Barbie has to have a garage, right :) That measures 13w x 20d x 15h THANKS FOR VISITING! Don't forget to follow, so you can get updates on our next project. Pin It  I am linked up here: DIY Home Sweet Home, Sumos Sweet Stuff Keeping it Simple, Skip to my Lou, Sew Chatty The Girl Creative, Sugar Bee Crafts, Seven Thirty Three Sugar and Dots , Gluesticks, Fireflies and Jelly Beans Momnivors Dilemma Finding Fabulous Naptime Crafters

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The cutest doll accessories look like the “real thing” just tiny. These doll pillows are perfectly adorable with their own separate pillowcase, wide hem, and plump pillow inside. Pillowcases can be made with any fabric scraps, but we think you’ll agree the snuggly softness of Shannon Fabrics Cuddle Fabrics makes for the sweetest playtime. If your child likes to play with dolls, they’ll love some snuggly soft doll accessories. Be sure to check out links at the bottom of this post to other related doll DIY projects including a doll tent, sleeping bag, puff quilt, and travel accessories.

I have not had a computer this week and, shortly after I have uploaded this, I will not have a computer / internet connection until Wednesday, 6th March. Everyone who has been leaving me comments a…

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Hi everyone, I just wanted to share my latest little house I'm calling the White Cottage which I completed in about 5 days and over 30 hours of work. Its made out of heavy duty cardboard and I was inspired again when I should be taking a break from creating, but once again I thought I cant sit still I have to create something. Plus a couple weeks before I tried my hand at making some wing back chairs. I was inspired by a white wing back chair that is pictured below. So I made a rough pattern from it and did my best to teach myself how to create my own chairs, plus attended 1 couch, which was my first attempt. I think I enjoyed making them even though I think I can build a house quicker than I can build a chair lol.... but I am always in a hurry, and was able to create a chair in about 1 1/2 hours. Not to bad, if I would dedicate more time I think I could get better. But I'm not sure if I'm a furniture builder, it wasn't as fun as creating a house. I hope you all enjoy the pictures.. Have a Wondeful Month. Stan. The white chair was the inspiration chair I thought I would attempt to create. The floral chair is the first attempt, which I had a hard time on the arms and it turned out more of a fantasy looking cottage chair. The checkered chair was my second attempt. This floral chair was my third attempt which I really liked the line. and I simplified the arms. The chair on the far left which is below which was the hardest since I used an old curtain for material and the material was 3 times as thick, which was way to hard to glue and shape. This was the hardest attempt since I used to heavy of material. I had no legs around so I found some beads and glued together. My first attempt at making a couch that matched the lines of the wing back chair. Its far from perfect, but I have adjusted the pattern I made, but now out of energy and inspiration to create another one. At least I know I can always build my own furniture to furnish my houses I build if I ever need to.

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Picture taken at Yosemite National Park, California It feels so good to write again! It's been a loooong time since I last posted on this blog. I spent maybe an hour to put together all the things I want to write about - I missed blogging so much! "Fall down seven times, get up eight" fully describes my past half year. Life had prepared some hills for me to climb, yet I must say that I'm proud of running those hills down today without any big bruises, yay! After 2 medical operations and leaving my new company to join my old one again, I can say that I had my share of stress for the year 2016. Lessons learned: #1: Take as much advice as you can get, but always trust your gut feelings #2: No money or status can replace a healthy work environment #3: Get regular health checks (which in my case saved me a lot of trouble) After all the stress, me and my husband went to a well deserved holiday and it was such a great metaphorical moment when we hiked up to the Sentinel Dome at the Yosemite National Park. I felt as if all the weight had fallen from my shoulders and it was finally time to "enjoy". When standing at the tip of the dome, I really felt free and happy. We were really lucky with the weather that day. My favorite picture from our Sentinel Dome hike. Another picture from the beautiful Yosemite National Park. Alright, so where is all the miniature in this? Well, you're right, there is none. With all the stress, work, operations, I did not have time at all to work on miniatures lately. The worst part is, I really want (or should I say wanted?) to participate to the HBS Creatin Contest this year, but I'm terribly behind and I am not sure if I can finish the project before the deadline. I keep my hopes up high but I definitely will have to abandon some ideas to be able to make it. For example, I wanted to make a real hand weaved rug for the living room, but it takes so much time to create the rug that this is the first thing I will have to give up. I even made my very own loom out of remainders of wood and some really thin nails. Below you can find some pictures of how I made it and what I did need as material. First I added some height to both shorter sides of the loom. Then I marked every 2mm on the elevations on both sides to ensure that the nails that will hold the string will have an equal distance on a straight line. This is a picture after I nailed all the tiny nails on to the marks I made. Once all nails were ready, I just tied a knot with the string on the first nail and warped it back and forth on the subsequent nails. Once all was set, I put a stripe of carton on each end of the loom to create an area without knots, which later will end up being the fringes of the rug. Note that I walked the carton over and under the strings 1 string at a time for a better grip. The rest is pretty easy. Just select the color/type of string you want to use for the body of the rug and with the help of a sewing needle run it over and under the base strings row by row. Each new row you will need to inverse the sequence, so that if you had past over a base string in the earlier row, your color string should this time pass under the string. Repeat until rug is finished and tie a knot at the end. Before you taking the rug off the loom, take off 1 nail at a time, cut the freed string in the middle to form two fringes and tie a knot with these two to ensure that your rows stay in place. Voila! I tried to explain as best as I could in English, but if you have any questions please do ask. For now this is how the interior of the project looks. I have planned something very special for the outside of the house, one of the reasons why part of the roof is hidden! Another thing that took me quite a time was to make the custom windows. I'm happy that at least these are already done. To create these, I simply glued black colored wooden sticks on a thin transparent PVC sheet to ensure exact measurements. I glued sticks on both sides to create a more realistic look. First I created the frame. Then I filled in the remainder. Ta da! These are the only updates I can give for now. In the meantime I'm trying to catch up with other blogs as I could not follow any for a couple of months. Below are some really nice ones I already visited. Sorry for not leaving any comments on the posts, there are so many to read... Keli's amazing Fall Color Pics. My source of daily motivation @ Mockingbird Hill Cottage. Brae's stunning model cars in progress. Useful tips from Nancy on working with wood and her gorgeous plants. Ilona's fantastic dolls and flowers. Jodi's breathtaking contest project. Casey's conservatory. Josye's antique chairs. Evelyne's sweet feves on her Beatrix Potter showcase. Hugs, Susi

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