I made a dormer. The painting on this side is done, just some lead for the roof, the balconies, railing and shutters. Because I have a dormer, there is room for a little guest-room. I also used the beautiful lace that Mercedes give me as curtains, it is just perfect!!

In the big house there will be a workroom, the owner is just like me(LOL) She have a lot of projects, some finished and others not. Here is one she finished And now back to normal size, I am done with all those tiny things.

HOLA¡¡ BIENVENID@ A MI PEQUEÑO ESPACIO, ”MI MUNDO EN ROSA”. PARA TI ESTA ROSA

DIORAMA " ZAKKA SHOP " Para escala 1/6 scale dolls (Tamaño : Blythe, momoko, licca, yo-sd , barbie, monster high ) sold! Fotos:

Welcome to the first stop on the Shabby Cottage tour. I'm going to do the tour in three posts because I took so many photos when the sun was shining the other day. So here we have the Shabby Bedroom. Tea anyone? Cookies made by Kim Saulter. Delicate teacup from Linda. Teapot made by me. Bedside table and pitcher made by Sylvia. Doily from Debbie. Roses made by me! What's in the drawer? A diary, letters and postcards. Vintage mail and slippers made by Linda. Rug made by me. Wooden doll with moveable arms and legs made by Sabiha. Robe and bed made by me. A French chair from Linda which I made shabby. Table made by me. Frames on wall made by Sabiha. Spectacular buttercream rose cupcake made by Kim. Jewelery box made by my friend Anne. Jewelery made by me. Glass bottle a gift from Benedetta. Sewing basket and doll made by me. Picture from Linda, artwork by Christie Repasy. Wash stand was made from a kitset sent to me by Sylvia. Pitcher made by Sylvia. Urn and containers made by me. Mirror and baby picture from Sylvia. Bed and bedding made by me. Picture from Linda, artwork by Christie Repasy. Curtain made by me. Pansies made by Sylvia. Wardrobe made by me. Metal container made by Sylvia. Dresses all made by me. What's hiding beside the wardrobe? A palette and painting made by Sabiha. What's under the bed? Paints, brushes and tape made by Sabiha. Hope you've enjoyed the tour. Check back in a few days to see the rest of the cottage. I owe a huge thanks to all the wonderful friends who have given me the most beautiful minis to use in the shabby cottage. Click on their names to be taken to their wonderful blogs. Thanks for stopping by! Mercedes

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This tutorial came about when I was asked about the thread I used when I made the watering can. It's crochet thread, Coats & Clark, Classic. The miniaturist wanted to weave baskets with it. I suggested using waxed linen, 2 ply. The wicker furniture makers use waxed linen, 3 ply. I purchased some 2 ply months ago wanting to weave baskets but never got around to it. The miniaturist said she couldn't get the 2 ply so I thought I could do the same thing with painted crochet thread. This is the result of a question from a miniaturist and my experimentation. I hope you enjoy it. There's my ball of crochet thread with Delta's Ceramcoat Autumn Brown and Apple Barrel's Golden Brown. I used what I had on hand. The brown glass stain is used to coat the baskets after they are finished, that's just an option. You will need 26 gauge covered wire. I have the kind that is wound with thread. Sometimes it's a little tedious to work with because the thread will unwind. There is a different kind, Fibre-Craft makes it and it has more of a coating. I am told it's easier to work with. She buys it from www.createforless.com. We are going to use mat board for the bottom of the basket. Choose a "basket" looking color and paint the crochet thread and one piece of the covered wire. I just dip my finger and thumb in the paint and run the thread through and hang it up to dry. I cut the thread 24 inches (70 cm) long. It seems an easy length to handle. Four pieces should do for a little basket. Don't forget to paint one piece of the covered wire, too. The next thing to do is find a mould. The ones I used for this project are a cap from my hair spray bottle, I cut the bottom off a Reese's Pieces candy container and I made a mould from odds and ends of Fimo. The moulds should be at least 1 inch (2.5 cm) tall. I like to use plastic because the tacky glue will not stick and I can wipe the glue off. Remember 1 inch equals 1 foot for sizing the basket. You don't want to make the basket too big. You have to fill it after you've made it. A big basket takes more to fill! I made the bottoms from mat board. I traced around the Reese's Pieces container, then drew another line about an 1/8" (4mm) inside the original line. I cut on the new line. For the other moulds I used my circle and oval templates to measure for the bottoms. You want the mat board bottoms to be smaller than the bottom of the mould. Cut the mat board bottom out. See how it's smaller than the bottom of the hair spray cap. We are going to drill holes into the edge of the mat board. (I suppose you could drill into the flat face of the mat board and bend the wire out from the mat board, but I think that would create bulk.) You see my little pin vise drill on the table. This is a good little tool. You will need an UNEVEN amount of holes. We want as many spokes, that's the 26 gauge wire, as we can get into the mat board edge. The circle you see is 7/16" (6mm) in diameter. I have 17 pieces of wire to stick into it. Cut the wire into 1 inch (2.5 cm) pieces, cut one piece 2 1/2" to 3" (63mm to 77mm), that's your handle. After trying to devise a method for measuring where the holes should be I gave up and just started marking free hand. Remember you must have an uneven number. Also, it's better to error on having too many spokes than too few. Use a "T" pin to pierce a hole in the edge. Now, drill a hole, removing paper so that the wire will have a place to be. If you skip this the mat board will be hard to keep together. It will split apart. When you drill, hold the mat board between yours fingers and thumb, squeezing it, almost. You will feel the drill. So, this is what you need to do: Pierce a hole with the "T" pin, drill out the hole, dip the end of the wire into YELLOW WOOD GLUE, get a good amount on the wire and put the wire into the hole. If you are using the wound thread type of covered wire I found if I twisted the wire in the direction that the thread was wound it helped. This twisting kept the thread from unwinding. I've got my first wire in, it's the handle. You see all of my marks? Go around the circle, piercing, drilling, dipping and inserting at every other mark. Be sure you are holding tightly to the circle. When you have half the wire in, place the assembly onto your table and press hard to seal the mat board together. Now, begin again, piercing, drilling, dipping and inserting until you have all the wire in. Press on the mat board again to seal. I like to leave this to dry, if not over night at least several hours. If you don't let this dry adequately the wire spokes will twist while you are weaving causing you headaches. I wanted to show you how the mat board sealed around the wire spokes. After your bottom/spokes assembly is dry you can paint it a "basket" color. Leave this to dry. I don't understand why this picture chose to load in sideways but it did. I can't seem to get it turned so we will just have to be satisfied with it! Center the bottom of the basket onto your mould. Fold the wire spokes down around the mould. You will have to do this at the edge of your table because of the long handle wire. Lift your basket off the mould and tacky glue the end of the painted crochet thread to the bottom. Press the basket back onto the mould. Begin to weave, over, under, over and under. Pull tightly and the basket will begin to grip the mould before you know it. Second row begun. Over, under, over and under . . . . You see, I haven't even gotten up the side and the basket is staying on the mould by itself. I am holding the hair spray cap. Try to keep your weaving even. Every so often set the basket up at eye level and check. If you find you are high on one side use your tweezers to push the thread down. This will only move 2 rows at the most, so check often so you can keep everything looking nice. Doesn't hurt to unweave if you need to neaten things up a bit. You are going to run out of thread. Weave under with the thread that's running out. That's the original thread end you see on the right. Place a new end behind the spoke your ending thread is coming out of and just continue to weave. You will trim the ends off when you finish the basket. I usually weave until I have a 1/2 inch (13 or 14mm) high sides. This is a 6 inch (15.5 cm) basket in life-size. I don't like them too deep, then I have to fill it! See my ends where I started new thread? Carefully PUSH the basket off the mould. If you pull, the basket comes off and then you squeeze the basket misshaping it. If you do this, put the basket back on the mould to reshape. Trim the ends of the thread close to the weaving. Trim off the spokes close to the weaving. Don't leave any wire sticking up. Don't cut your handle off. Use the painted wire for the rim. Bend the wire around the mould. Cut the wire, leaving a little extra, maybe a 1/4" (6 or 7mm). Slip the wire off the mould and straighten it. Apply tacky glue to about 1/2" (13 or 14mm) to start. Start winding the thread around the wire. Continue to wrap the thread until about 1/2" (13 to 14mm) is left of the wire. Apply tacky glue to this end and wrap the thread to the end of the wire. Bend the wire rim around the mould to shape. Place the basket back on the mould and apply tacky glue to the edge. Press the rim down on top of the basket. Trim the ends so they butt, apply glue to the ends. The rim is glued on the outside of the handle. Hold this until the glue tacks and is holding the rim to the basket. Carefully push the basket off the mould. Use small clips to hold the rim together until the rim is dry. To get the length and shape of your handle right, find a cylinder to shape it around. I am using a 7/8" (22mm) dowel here but you could use anything around the house. Trim the handle to the top of the rim. I threaded the crochet thread onto a large eyed needle, a tapestry needle. I want to sew a "X" at the base of the handle. I inserted the needle from the inside of the basket and came out right under the rim. I crossed the thread over and behind the handle. There's the "X". Apply tacky glue to the end of the thread inside the basket. Don't cut the thread that the needle is on. Start wrapping the handle with the crochet thread. Wrap the thread until you have about 1/2" (13 to 14mm) left. Apply tacky glue to the wire and finish wrapping the handle. The handle has been wrapped, don't cut the thread. I didn't even take the needle off while I wrapped the handle. I am going to need it to sew another "X". Apply tacky glue to the rim and press the handle down onto the rim. When the handle has dried sew another "X" on this side of the basket. Trim off the extra thread and apply tacky glue to the end. Touch up any paint you might have missed. I have some little plastic clamps I bought when I first go into miniatures. I know Hobby Builders still carry them. They come in handy for this type of thing. This is the basket made with the Reese's Pieces candy container. These are the baskets made from my Fimo mould. This is the basket made from the cap of my hair spray bottle. I am showing the difference between the baskets that I painted with the glass stain. I painted BOTH baskets with the golden brown, I painted the one on the right with the glass stain, too. I really like this one. This is also showing the glass stain effect. Both baskets were painted with the autumn brown and the one on the right was painted with the glass stain, too. I hope you have fun trying this out. I think you be very happy with your finished baskets. I will have the item number for the Fibre-Craft wire for you with the next post. I have something else to share, how to make a fly swatter. I will try to have it posted tomorrow. Have fun, expand on it, make it better, just keep making minis!!!

1/6 scale

There's still room in my Chicago class. If you'd like to try landscaping in 1:144 scale, why not join us for this fun and easy project? For details, go to: http://www.bishopshow.com/chi15ws41.htm

Francesca, 27 years old. Sun and Moon in ♈ Rising in ♐ | 💚❤️ 🌃 | Previously: alone-alive-still-unbroken | Sideblog: @unnretrofied🇮🇹

Chronicling my obsession with modern dollhouses and miniatures.

さて　一昨日から挑戦中だったのは作っているハウスをミニチュアにすることでした肉眼だと　これでいいかなと思ったけれど写真に写してみると窓枠が一本　斜めになっている～～；；あとでなおします棚に置くことを考えて　縦横比は反対に。 トレイにマカロンとカップも作ったけれど小さすぎて何がなんだか分からないこのサイズは　大雑把な性格の私には向いてないと思うもっと神経の細やかな人じゃないと＾＾ヾ...

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Since we moved to our current house nearly two years ago, I haven't really messed around with the bedroom layouts. Beatrix had her bedroom with her toys in it. Byron and I used the third bedroom as an office/craft/guest room....

Hier eine kleine Bastelanleitung für die Leute, die Ihren Osterurlaub zu Hause verbringen. Eine kleine Easy-Anleitung für einen tollen Puppenhaus-Kamin.... entweder nur als Deko-Kamin oder als Feuerkamin. Ihr braucht einen schönen Bilderrahmen..... den gibt es meist in Billig-oder Deko-Läden.... daraus bekommt Ihr zwei Kamine... wenn die Höhe stimmt. Höhe 17 cm Breite nach Wunsch (meiner ist 12 cm breit) Tiefe 2 cm... den Ramen einmal in der Mitte durchsägen... falls er zu schmal in der Tiefe ist... hinten noch eine Leiste anbringen... und für das Unterteil auch eine Leiste quer... 2 cm breit und Länge wie Euer Kamin... zurechtsägen und aufkleben. Dann den Kamin mit der Wunschfarbe bemalen.... evtl. auch lackieren. Wer noch einen Hintergrund haben möchte, klebt hinten evtl. schwarzen Fotokarton an und betupft alles mit etwas roter und grauer Farbe. Ich habe meinen Kamin nur mit weißer Kalkfarbe bemalt und nicht lackiert. Mein Kamin hat die Maße: 12 cm breit / 8,5 cm hoch / 2 cm tief. Viel Spaß beim werkeln und liebe Grüße an Euch PuNo / Monika

Оригинал взят у museum_cdm в Дом муми-троллей Это удивительный кукольный дом муми-троллей, который своими руками создали автор вселенной муми-троллей Туве Янссон с друзьями Тууликки Пиетилэ и Пентти Эйстола в конце 70-х годов. В доме 5 этажей, его высота 2.5 метра. Сначала дом должен был быть…

He aprovechado las cápsulas de las gotas de los ojos..... ....para hacer las botellas del aceite y del vinagre..... y........ ¡ dentro llevan aceite y vinagre de verdad ! ..... las he colocado en la cesta de la compra Espero que os guste

This is the chair from the Vintage Kitchen, I have several pictures of this room box on the blog, one picture is in the July 29, 2009 posting. I've been asked to make a tutorial for this chair several times, I avoided it because it's tricky. Even now, when I made the samples for you I held my breath when the bending began. I didn't have another piece of aluminum if this failed. I am making the table next month so you will have a matching set. This set is in my full-size kitchen, so I took the measurements from it and converted to 1 inch scale. This chair uses 3/32 inch aluminum tubing. I used to get it from Micro Mark, they only sell by the box of 15 now, at least that's what their web site listed. Now, if your first try at bending this chair is successful, consider yourself lucky, but 15 pieces is way too many unless you are using this as a club project. I have found a site that sells the K & S Engineering aluminum tubing in smaller amounts, www.hobbylinc.com They sell 3/32 inch aluminum tubing in a package of 3 for 1.59, I would purchase 2 packages, just in case. For the table you will need 1 package of 1/16 inch aluminum tubing, 6 pieces for 1.59 and 1 package of 1/8 inch aluminum tubing, 3 pieces for 1.89. Look under "building supplies". Of course, if you have a hobby shop that specializes in models and trains they might have this tubing. I used basswood for the seats and backs on the original chairs. If you have access to a scroll saw and can cut the wood, I would use the wood. The seat is 3/32 inch thick basswood and I sanded the saddle into the seat. The back is cut from 1/16 inch thick basswood. After I cut out and sanded the edges round I dampened the back and let it dry over a glass, something that had the right size bend. I held it in place with rubber bands. Let this dry overnight. Then I painted with Rustoleum white oil base paint. For this tutorial I am using mat board for the seats and backs. I mentioned earlier, if you are successful on the first try consider yourself lucky. This goes fast, you'll have a chair in no time, if your bends are correct. Don't try to move the bends too much, aluminum only bends once. I don't use the "tube benders". They are more trouble than they are worth. We will make a bending jig. You'll need a scrap of wood, a piece of a 2 x 4 or maybe a piece of plywood, at least 1/2 inch thick. On a piece of paper draw your chair shape. Use a square. From top of back to seat is 1-1/4 inches; back of seat to front 1-1/4 inches; top of seat to floor 1-3/8 inches and the last measurement is 1-1/16 inches. Now, round off the corners, I did this freehand, if you want to use a circle template, go ahead. Cut this pattern out and glue it to your scrap of wood. Next, you are going to need some brads. These are small nails with NO heads. Mine are probably 5/8 inches long. The picture above is my original bending jig from maybe 10 years ago, never throw out your jigs or forms, you will need them again. See the little brads? Yes, they look like nails, but you can't have heads on them or you won't be able to get the tubing off after you've bent it. Carefully hammer the brads into the wood on your rounded lines. Do you see how mine are very, very close together? You have to do this so the tubing won't crimp. This is your first bending jig for the chair, you have one more to make. On another piece of paper draw an "L" with your square, each leg is 9/16 inches long. Round it's corner also. Glue this piece to the scrap of wood also, glue it about 10 or 12 inch away from the first pattern. Carefully hammer the brads onto the rounded line. Again, this is my original jig with all of my notes. You see I made some mistakes the first time, and when you see me bending you will notice that I had the two jigs too close together. To keep the tubing from crimping insert a wire large enough to fill the inside of the tube. I had 18 gauge covered wire on hand. I had to unravel the thread on it, but it fit into the 3/32 inch tubing just fine. The tubing is 12 inch long. Use your craft knife and with the wire inserted, cut the tubing to 11-1/16 inch. I am cutting the tubing. Cut the wire a little shorter than the tubing. Straight pins are used to cap the ends of the tubing so we need room for those. We are ready to bend. Hold the tubing at the top of the jig, the tubing is going to want to move away from the brad, hold onto it. Please forgive the picture quality, I had help. I've made the first bend at the back of the seat. THEN, I moved the tubing so that it is on top of the second bend's brads, look carefully and you can see this. In this picture you can see how I moved the tubing to be on top of the second bend. I've made the bend and I am down to the bottom. I've made the third bend. I am marking on the tubing a line to indicate the end of the pattern. I've removed the chair and now it's on the next jig. The mark you made should be at the first brad. This is a picture from the top and I am bending around the brads. I am marking the tubing again indicating the end of the pattern, this is also the center back. At this point you could cut the chair at the center back, it's much easier this way, but you have a seam that would have to be glued. I've repositioned the chair. Can you see the chair on the right, the center back line is matching the one on the pattern? We are still looking at everything from the top. I've made the second bend for the bottom of the chair. Now it gets complicated! I do not know how to explain this, but here goes . . . take a straight edge, your ruler, but it's got to be flat and thin, that's why I have mine turned over, push it against the curve and make a mark on the other side of the chair's tubing. This is not exact, this is going to be your trial chair. Remember, you can cut the chair at the center back. I've gone back to my first jig, see the chair is standing up on it's bottom. I've lined up the mark I made with the first brad. After I made the first sample chair, I found that I needed to move the chair back, maybe a 1/16 inch from the brad. We are still looking from the top. The back bottom of the chair is on the left and I am beginning the bottom bend. Yes, it's not on the same plane, we are going to twist the second side into position. Are you sure you wanted these instructions? I've continued around the brads. REMEMBER, to move the tubing after the second bend so that it's under your brads at the back of the seat. If all went well you should be ending at the beginning mark on your pattern. Carefully lift your chair off of the jig. Carefully twist the other side of the chair into position. You have one try at this. Here are my two samples, and my original chair. You can move the aluminum tubing a bit, but don't worry it to death, it will break. All of this just takes minutes to do. Transfer the patterns at the top of this posting to a program that you can change sizes in. When you get the 1 inch square to measure 1 inch, you have the patterns correct. As I mentioned earlier, if you have basswood and can cut it, use it. If not we are going to use mat board for this tutorial. I bent the chair back using a form, this is a circular Altoids tin. Wrinkles will appear on the surface of the mat board. To cover them, because it very hard to get rid of them, cut a piece of paper or card stock to fit over the front of the back after it's bent. This should be a lot easier than trying to sand and paint them out, like I tried to do. Glue the paper with yellow carpenter's glue while the back is in it's bent position. Hold until set. Find some straight pins with large heads, or you can punch circles to cover the open ends of the tube. I had some small nails I used for the samples. I sanded the edges half round and then gave everything a coat of Delta's PermEnamel Gloss Glaze to seal. Let dry. A picture showing the half rounded edges. I painted the mat board with Delta's PermEnamel white paint, several times, sanding with 320 grit paper in between coats. We are trying to imitate metal so we want a very smooth surface. After you are satisfied with the surface give everything a coat of Delta's PermEnamel Gloss Glaze. I glued the backs and seats on with instant glue, be careful of your position, you don't have much time to reposition. Yes, this chair is a little daunting, but you can do it, just take a deep breath!! I will be posting the table next month. Have fun, expand on it, make it better, Just keep making MINIS!!!!!

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This is a photo-heavy post so brace yourself... I made this for my favorite girl Ellis! This is the free lunch box I got from AMK Hub th...

♥ Custom Handmade Diorama Wellspring Dream ♥ Around 16 cm dolls: Middie Blythe, Lati yellow, pukifee , tiny betsy , licca, pure neemo, Enyo, Odeco, etc... ♥ Thanks!

After long summer days, full of barbecue parties and garden enjoyment, we're mostly indoors and look for hobbies that we can keep ourselves busy at home. Among all other crafts like knitting, making decoration items, recycle and repurpose projects, making miniature gardens provides a fun alternative especially for the ones who enjoy gardening and modelling.

Prettydesigns is going to offer you amazing DIY projects again. Today’s post is all about the bottles. I will tell you how easy to deal