Craft miniature scenes, build dollhouses and follow our tutorials for various DIY miniatures projects to grow your collection.

Miniature Bench Size 6.8cm L x 4.2cm D x 6cm H Made of PVC

Σε κάθε τύπου κατασκευή-διακόσμηση αντικείμενα από υλικά όπως ξύλο, γυαλί, πέτρα, πηλός και γενικά το σύνολο των φυσικών υλικών και όλων των παραγωγών τους, αδιαμφισβήτητα δημιουργούν ένα αισθητικό αποτέλεσμα που δεν μπορεί να συγκριθεί με αντίστοιχα πλαστικά ή πλαστικής υφής-όψης αντικείμενα. Πολύ περισσότερο αν τα αντικείμενα αυτά προορίζονται να συνυπάρξουν με απόλυτα φυσικά στοιχεία (φυτά, χώμα) όπως συμβαίνει με τα αντικείμενα-μινιατούρες ενός fairy garden. (ΕΔΩ θα βρείτε όλες τις γενικές πληροφορίες, μικρά μυστικά και 50+ Ιδέες για τέτοιους κήπους μινιατούρες). Ταυτόχρονα οι χειροποίητες μινιατούρες αντικειμένων είναι και η πλέον οικονομική λύση με δεδομένο ότι η εγχώρια αγορά σε παρόμοια είδη είναι αρκετά περιορισμένη, αφ΄ετέρου η διαδικασία για να φτιάξετε π.χ μινιατούρες ξύλινων ή μεταλλικών επίπλων, έναν φράχτη, μια πόρτα, μια μίνι πέργκολα κλπ. είναι απλή. Με ξυλαράκια-κλαδάκια κάθε είδους, χαλίκι, βότσαλα, κοχύλια, κουκουνάρια, φλοιό δέντρων, χαρτοπολτό, απλό σύρμα, σπάγγο-σκοινί, έτοιμο πηλό, ξυλάκια γενικής χρήσης (παγωτού) για κατασκευές, τεχνητά βρύα για χρήση σε μακέτες, ακρυλικά χρώματα για να βάψετε οποιοδήποτε υλικό και μια κόλλα ή πιστόλι σιλικόνης, υλικά δηλαδή που είτε θα μαζέψετε ακόμη και από ένα πάρκο στο κέντρο της πόλης ή θα βρείτε εύκολα και οικονομικά σε όλα τα καταστήματα με είδη για χόμπυ-κατασκευές, είστε σε θέση να δημιουργήσετε μόνοι σας τα περισσότερα είδη αντικειμένων - μινιατούρες. Ειδικά για τις κολλήσεις και επειδή το πιστόλι σιλικόνης σε πολύ μικρά αντικείμενα αφήνει διαφανή μεν αλλά ...ορατά ίχνη, προτιμήστε το για κρυφά σημεία ή λίγο πιο βαριά στοιχεία και για τα υπόλοιπα χρησιμοποιήστε μια ισχυρή κόλλα γενικής χρήσης. Για να διευκολυνθείτε στην επιλογή και την προμήθεια όσων θα χρειαστείτε πλην των φυτών για την δημιουργία ενός fairy garden, και μετά τις 50+ ιδέες για τον σχεδιασμό του, ακολουθεί ένας μικρός, ενδεικτικός και ...φωτογραφικός κατάλογος, με υλικά κατασκευής αλλά και έτοιμες μινιατούρες από καταστήματα-eshops της εγχώριας αγοράς. Κλικάροντας στο link κάτω από κάθε εικόνα, μεταφέρεστε στην αντίστοιχη κατηγορία προϊόντων κάθε καταστήματος όπου υπάρχουν και άλλα σχετικά είδη. Δείτε εδώ περισσότερες παρόμοιες ιδέες ΠΟΥ ΘΑ ΒΡΕΙΤΕ ΥΛΙΚΑ - ΕΤΟΙΜΕΣ ΜΙΝΙΑΤΟΥΡΕΣ www.plaisio.gr www.hartorama.gr/ www.pacoartcenter.gr www.hobbycorner.gr www.decomagia.gr www.pacoartcenter.gr www.decomagia.gr www.kleidas.gr www.craftsandpaper.gr www.tomolivi-eshop.gr www.neverland-melaniti.gr ΦΩΤΟΓΡΑΦΙΕΣ: pinterest.com/soulouposeto

I remember the first time I saw Colleen Moore's Fairy Castle at the Museum of Science and Industry in Chicago. I was a little girl and it was the first time I ever saw anything so magical. That is a story for another post. Now I want to give you a little tour of another dollhouse that is another place of magical perfection. Kathleen's dollhouse. Kathleen Holmes is a Facebook friend of mine. She is the owner and designer of wonderful dollhouses and dollhouse miniatures. Every detail is so perfect, so realistic, you feel as though you have been transformed into a little fairy. At least that is how I feel. I have often told Kathleen that I wish I could have one of Alice's "eat me" pills that would shrink me down to the perfect size to fit into Kathleen's house. Let's begin. Just imagine that we have pulled up in this lovely vintage auto. Here we are in the drive and about to walk through the gate. Looks like someone is delivering groceries, anticipating our arrival no doubt. We are expected, so it's okay to open the gate and walk up the path. A bird bath, coneflowers, a succulent, potted rose and hydrangea too. Someone left their sandals on the first step. They look like hurraches don't you think? Such a charming front porch. Look ~ isn't that a humming bird on the feeder? I would love to hang out here for a while, but we have a lot to see, so let's stop back here later. Of course since we are in a magical place, we can twitch our noses and instantly change the season to fall. The leaves are changing. Mums are planted around the base of the tree. Pumpkins are flanking the front door. Isn't this exciting? I love looking at houses. Don't you? Some wonderful aroma is coming from the kitchen. Let's go see what's cooking in here. It really looks like a granny's kitchen with it's vintage Roper stove and old ice box. I am loving that old sink too. What a beauty! Do you see that hoosier with all the lovely salt glazed crocks on top? I don't know about you, but this kitchen makes me feel more like family than an invited guest. So …. Let's grab an apron and get busy. Who wants to roll out some pie dough? Now that the pie is in the oven, let's do some more exploring. Come with me and let me show you the living room. Isn't it cozy? Let's just imagine how it will look when it is decorated for Christmas. Little reindeer on the mantel. The stockings are hung. Christmas cards are strung. How about a cup of hot chocolate? There has been a lot of Christmas card addressing going on here. Look's like a package is ready to be mailed too. A brown paper package all tied up with string ~ just like the song, it's one of my favorite things! And here it is on Christmas Eve. The fire is aglow. Presents are under the tree. Milk and cookies for Santa. Perfection! Let's not forget the dining room. Fully decorated for Thanksgiving thanks to magical fairy dust and the wonders of Kathleen's decorating talent. This is fit for a blog post on Tablescape Thursday! I wonder, I will have to check with Susan to see if dollhouse tablescapes count ;-) Here is the kitchen before the dinner. The turkey is ready for the oven. Yams ready to be peeled. Celery, onions, carrots and cornbread all set to prepare the stuffing. Since this is an old fashioned kitchen there is no dishwasher. Lot's of hand washing. Someone has already started washing up because the dish drainer is full. I imagine that many of the vegetables for Thanksgiving dinner came from Kathleen's own garden. She is such a talented gardener too! Watch out for that snake! It was probably enjoying an afternoon sunbath until we disturbed him. Lets hope he slithers off soon. I'll have to suggest to Kathleen that she put some mothballs around her garden because thats what we do down here in Texas to keep the snakes away. Trust me ~ down here in Texas we know about snakes. I know you want to see the upstairs. I will show you around. Here is the master bedroom complete with fourposter bed, handmade quilt and a crochet afghan. See the pup lounging at the foot of the bed? Bentley loves to do that on our bed at home. Dogs are just the same everywhere ~ even the ones who live in dollhouses. Did you notice that breakfast tray? Lots of pampering going on in this house :-) Come follow me down the hall. There is a charming nursery too! And a sweet bath with vintage honeycomb tile floor and pedestal sink. I like the wallpaper too. For some reason I really like wallpaper in a bathroom. Let's take another peak at the master. Looks like an Aubusson rug on the floor. Pretty. I like the simple tie backs with the ball fringe edge. Takes me back to a simpler time. The attention to detail is truly amazing! Just one more moment on the porch before we leave. Blissful, don't you agree? I wish we could stay longer, but we cannot over extend our welcome. Kathleen has a very busy schedule because she is moving! That's right. The family has outgrown this home and the movers are starting to pack it up to move into an even grander space, if you can imagine that! See, the truck is already here and the packing has begun. No worries though. I have more surprises in store for you because tomorrow we will start touring the new dollhouse. Prepare yourself to be blown away! Thank you Kathleen, for letting me show your magical creations to all of my blog friends. Your special dollhouse has provided me with hours of enjoyment and I could not wait to share it with everyone. See you tomorrow when the tour resumes. I am showing off Kathleen's dollhouse to my friends Paula and Patti too, so please visit: What's It Wednesday Bentley ~ did you see that cute little dog on the bed in the master bedroom? Yes it's true, you curl up on your mama and daddy's bed just the same way. Big Texas Hugs, Susan and Bentley

...tent area by dont make a scene on Flickr.

Rosy Dollhouse and Miniature

If you used to be obsessed - you know you once tried to make a DIY dollhouse - check out these 20 dollhouses that'll make you wish you could fit inside.

Explore The Calico Cottage's 316 photos on Flickr!

Poppenhuis schaal 1 op 12

I'm excited to share a new project I've been working on: Turning a KidKraft Chelsea dollhouse into a fairy house!

Today (Saturday, March 28), Shellie Kazan is hosting her annual Easter Egg Hunt from 12 noon to 3 p.m. Location: Shellie's Miniature Mania, 732 Laurel Street, San Carlos, CA. If you live locally, don't miss this popular event. Free prizes and Easter Treats. Book Signing with Camille Minichino at 1 p.m. for her new "Murder in Miniature" book (8th in the series). Email: [email protected]. Web: http://www.shelliesminis.com Full-size Easter/Springtime gifts and decorations: Miniature Easter/Springtime items, 1:12 scale:

------------------------------------------------ JULY 3RD: THE COMPLETED PROJECT Well the weather here in the Pacific Northwest is still either overcast or rainy, with just a couple of days at 70 degrees since last October…where has the sun gone? This is not inviting weather for gardening…in real life that is, so to the Miniature Garden I go. Every gardener needs a place to work & store and a Potting Bench is a perfect solution. I think you will enjoy making this one because it is relatively simple, needing just a few supplies and only hand tools. There is also enough lead way for you to add your own touches to make it your own, if desired. I will be adding projects to fill on and around the Potting Bench over the next few weeks so be sure to scroll down each time you return to this blog. And if you have any extra sunshine where you live please send some this way…we need it, Joann -------------- To Date: Parts #1 through #9 ------------------------------------------------- THE POTTING BENCH : Part 1 You will need: ¼” square stripwood + 3/32” (.080) book board or sheet wood + pointed or very small ball stylus + medium tooth razor saw + ¼” x 1/16” stripwood (if you have a Lowes near you check it out for poplar stripwood) + 1/16” square stripwood + 1/16” thick sheet wood (Woodsies Skinny Craft Sticks used here) Click on image to enlarge. Copy and paste to computer Print at actual/exact size or 8.35"W x 10.78"H ------------------------- Instructions: From ¼” square stripwood cut, two front legs 3” long (A’s), two back legs 4 ½” long (B’s), four side braces 2” long (C’s), two front and two back stretchers 4” long (D’s), two center braces 2” long (E’s). Measure and mark a line ¼” up from bottom of A & B pieces. Glue C pieces between A&B pieces to join them, making two bench sides as shown. Join the two side assemblies with the D pieces using pattern as guide. Glue the E pieces between the D pieces, centered side to side. You now have the framework of the potting bench. Finish as desired…see end of instructions for ideas. Cut a bench top and a bottom shelf from3/32” thick book board or sheet wood. The top is 4 ½” x 2 ¼” (if using wood the grain will run with the length of the piece). The shelf is 4 ½” x 2 ½” (if using wood the gain will run with the width of the piece). Working on the top piece, divide it into three. ¾” wide sections with a pointed or very small ball stylus, to indent the lines. Continue the lines over the edges. Scrape a razor saw over the top surface of the top piece to create a wood grain. Paint to match bench frame. Glue evenly to top of frame. Click on image to enlarge. Copy and paste to computer. Set to print at actual/exact size or 6.89"W x 9.36"H ---------------------------- Working on the bottom shelf, cut ¼” squares from each corner. Measure and mark to divide the shelf into ½” section, using a pointed or very small round stylus to indent on lines. Use razor saw to scrape across shelf in direction of arrow to create a wood grain. Paint to match bench frame and glue evenly to frame. Cut a 4” length of 1/16” square stripwood. Paint to match bench and glue just in back of the bench top. Using the ¼” X 1/16” stripwood, cut 14 pickets sized and shaped as shown. Paint to match bench. From the same stripwood cut to rails 4” long and finish matching pickets. Glue the shortest pickets to one of the rails, bottom and side edges flush. Glue the center picket to the center of the rail, bottom edges flush. Glue the remainder of the pickets to the rail, spaced fairly evenly apart(no need to measure, just eye-ball). Glue the 2nd rail across the pickets, ¾” up from the bottom rail. When the glue has set, glue the picket assembly to the inside face of the top/back D stretcher, the extending sections of B’s, and to the 1/16” square piece. Cut two 9/16” sq. (or at least the same size as the base of the birdhouse that will sit here) pieces of 1/16” sheet wood (or matboard). Paint to match bench and glue, centered on top of extending posts. Potting Bench Birdhouse Toppers: Copy birdhouse printie onto matte presentation paper. Cut out. Center a 1/8” round paper punch over the large white circle and punch for opening. Using watercolor pencils color the inside of the what will be the back wall of the house to somewhat match the outside of the house…this is just so the white will not show thru the punched hole. Score and fold on all lines. Glue house together, tabs to inside. Fold roof in half. You may either color the inside of the roof or glue to roof printies together so color in on both sides. Glue roof to top tabs of house. Tint all exposed cut edges with watercolor pencils. Poke a hole thu the smaller marked dot and insert a small section of a round toothpick for a perch. Glue birdhouses to top of platforms on posts. Click on image to enlarge. copy and paste to computer. Set to print at actual/exact size or 6.18"W x4.02"H Print on Matte Presentation Paper using best settings -------------------------------- Painting the Potting Bench: As seen, the whole bench was painted with a celery-green color acrylic. When the paint dried it was weathered with a 1/3 black acrylic to 2/3 gel stain medium (Delta used here). Excess aging medium was removed with a damp cloth. The finish was lightly sanded back in areas that would naturally be more worn/aged. For a rougher finish all or part (pickets?) can be aged/weathered with a crackle finish. To achieve this look start with an base coat of medium gray acrylic. When dry add a coat of a crackle finish medium (look in the craft paint section for several brands to choose from) and carful follow the directions for application. Or paint over the base coat with a fairly thick coat of Elmer’s glue; let dry just until it is still a bit tacky and then paint over it with your color choice in one stroke. As the glue continues to dry the top coat will open in cracks. I suggest you practice either crackle technique on a scrap piece or two before applying to your potting bench. Personally, I keep my practice samples of all painting techniques with notes to myself on what to and not to do for future reference. Trim: A decorative trim may be added to the potting bench. This can be done by hand- painting, stenciling, rubber stamping, applying stickers or printies…wherever your talents lie. Click on image to enlarge. Copy and paste to computer. Set to print at exact/actual size or 4.63"W x 1.87"H Print at bet setting onto bright white paper ================================= PART TWO "Another rainy day here...not drizzling but pouring...but the Wisteria on the boathouse seems to love it and it smells wonderful, so not to complain (too much)" ------------ Shallow Shelf The same stripwood that was used for the pickets (1/4” x 1/16”) was used to cut a narrow shelf to fit across the pickets from inside the posts. Shelf brackets are three triangles cut from the same stripwood…simply use the 45 degree angle slot in a mini mater box to make a cut from the very end of the wood., turn the wood over and cut another bracket and repeat for the third one. Paint all pieces to match the bench. Glue brackets to bottom of shelf piece, one on each end and one in the center, making sure they are squared-up. When glue has set adhere shelf to face of pickets, placed as desired, keeping in mind what will be placed on or under the shelf. Small Gardening Products Make lightweight paper copies of products. Cut out. For cans, start at plain end of the strip & roll up tightly. When you come to the end and still holding the roll tightly decide on how fat you want the particular can…if larger release the roll a bit, if smaller undo some of the roll. Cut off any excess strip so the seam sits on the other side of the roll from the printing. Click on image to enlarge. Copy and paste to computer. Set to print at actual/exact size or 7.59"W x 5.22"H Use best settings and print onto bright white paper. ----------------------------------- You may choose to finish in several ways: (1) For a spray can, gently push up the coil from bottom with a pencil point or similar tool until it “peaks” out the top. Paint the peak with a light coat of glue to hold the shape. When glue has set, paint the peak metallic silver. Cut a snippet from a paper clip or heavy wire (wear eye protection as pieces can fly) and glue into center of top coil for a nozzle. Punch a round of silver metallic cardstock or tooling metal and glue to bottom of can. (2) Punch rounds from matboard and glue a single round or stacked rounds (depending on height wanted) to top of can for a lid. Add a punched cardstock round to the bottom. (3) Punch rounds from silver metallic cardstock or tooling metal and glue, one each, to top and bottom of can. Sprinkle holes may be dotted on with black acrylic using a pointed toothpick. Click on image to enlarge. Copy and paste to computer. Print a exact/actual size or 2.24"W x 3.27"H Use best settings and print onto matte presentation paper. ------------------ For the box, cut out, score and fold on lines. Glue side over tab & tops and bottoms over tabs and each other. For interest the lid flap may be left open. ----------------------------------------- TRAILING PLANT You will need a tiny container that will fit on the narrow shelf. If you don’t have one in your collection look at various lids to tubes from your medicine chest or craft supplies. These oft times work well if painted to look like pottery. Fill the container with a bit of Styrofoam held with glue. Paint the top of the Styrofoam with brown acrylic. The leaves are tiny hearts punched from solid core, leaf green, lightweight paper. The punch used is Fiskar’s 3-in-one heart corner punch…I like using this punch because you get multiple heats with one punch and it has a nice variety of sizes. Lay a bundle of punched hearts on a piece of white Fun Foam. Use a pointed stylus to “draw” a line across the heart from the point. This will give shape to the leaves. Cut a length, longer than needed, of green buttonhole thread for the vine. Make a small puddle of Crafter’s Pick Incredibly Tacky glue n your work surface. Using pointed tweezers pick up a leaf by the pointed end; dip the other end in a bit of glue and place on end of thread. Continue adding leaves, staggering as you move down the thread/vine. Start with smaller hearts and end with larger ones. When glue on the vines has set, pick them up and using a fine-feathered, flat paintbrush pick up a bit of a green acrylic craft paint in a shade several times lighter than the leaf paper; Add the paint to the leaves starting at the edges and feathering inward. The paint color should not draw your eye to it but rather add interest and depth to the leaves. Decide how long you want your tailing vines to be and cut off excess thread, leaving enough to poke into the container. Poke a hole in the Styrofoam and insert the end of the thread into it with a bit of glue. Drape the vine as desired and continue adding vines until you are happy with the plant. The larger leaves at the end of the vine should fill the container nicely but separate larger leaves can be added here and there to the potted plant as desired. Using thread for the vine gives a natural flow to them and makes them easy to arrange. A dab of glue may be used here and there to hold them in place. ------------------------------------- Hopefully there will be some sun this weekend so I can at at least pull a few weeds without wearing rain gear. In the mean time this mini-gardening is rally more my style, , Joann ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Project Segment #3 Garden Hat, Gloves & Clogs GARDEN HAT The woven-looking hats can be decorated to your heart’s content and the technique learned here can be used to create many other faux-woven items. First, you will want to decide on what size and shape you want your garden hat to be. It can be a smaller brimmed, more practical style or a floppy-brimmed version decked out with flowers and ribbons. Decide how high and wide the crown and how wide the brim. Next, look around you for a form that is approx. the width of the crown. This can be a rounded tool handle, a dowel or what have you. It can have either a flat top or a rounded top. On the form mark a line around it that is the depth of the crown. Cut an approx. 2” square piece of matboard. In the center of this piece draw a circle that is the same diam. or just a smidge larger than the diam. of the form. Cut out the circle. On the matboard square draw another circle, centered over the first, that is the diam. of the desired brim. Cover the matboard with plastic wrap holding it tight with tape on the bottom. Cut out & remove the wrap over the center hole. Cover the form you are using for the crown with plastic wrap and hold with a rubber band below the marked line. Insert the covered form into the hole in the matboard so that the marked line on the form is even with the top of the mat-board The hat will be made of heavy cotton thread/string such as Knit-Cro-Sheen in color of your choice. The thread may be used as is or it may be crocheted into a chain stitch or braided for a fancier woven look. This project is a bit messy and sticky so have a damp cloth handy near your work to constantly clean your fingers. Pour a puddle of Elmer’s white glue. With either your fingers or a paint brush coat a section of your chosen thread with the glue. On your finger form a small, tight coil with the wet thread and place it, centered, on top of your crown form. If possible you may hold the coil to the form with a push pin. Continue adding glue to the thread and continue with the coil until you have reached the depth of your crown or the matboard. Make sure your thread is continually saturated with the glue…don't worry about using too much hlue (unlike most miniature projects), and you may add another coat of glue over the coil with a paint brush. Let the glue set for a while until the coil is stable and then continue the coil onto the mat-board until your marked brim diam. is reached. Cut off thread at an angle and meld the cut end into the coil it is next too. Paint on a coat of glue. Let glue dry, preferably overnight. The drying process can be hurried a bit with a heat gun on its lowest temp. When the glue is not sticky to the touch, cut the rubber band from the form and gently pull the form from the crown. Very gently pull the plastic wrap from inside the crown. Cut the plastic wrap free from the matboard and then gently pull it away from the brim. Paint on a thin layer of glue to the underside of the hat and to any parts of the coil that may not have held. Let hat dry thoroughly. If you are not pleased with the color of your hat you may paint it with acrylics. Add a ribbon or thread, plain or braided, around the base of the crown, ending with or without a bow or trailing ends. Add string ties to the hat by either gluing them or sewing them on….these are on the underside, and can be used to display the hat hanging. Add whatever trims "sing to you"…flowers, bows, butterflies, birds…but do keep in mind that this should be somewhat of a “working” hat. GARDEN GLOVES Make printies of gloves onto bright white paper or 200 thread count printer fabric. Carefully cut out matching pairs of fronts and backs. Run a thin line of glue around the very back edges of the glove front except for the openings. Glue a back to it, matching them up as close as possible. Trim any overlaps as needed. Repeat for 2nd glove. When glue has set, use a round toothpick or pointed stylus to open up the gloves. Lightly stuff with bits of cotton for a fuller, used look. Bend and crease here and there to pose for a natural look. Cuffs may be colored, as shown, if desired. Click on image to enlarge. Copy and paste to computer. Set to print at actual/exact size or 6.30"W x 2.19"H Use best printer settings & print onto bright white paper or 200 thread count printer fabric ------------------- GARDEN CLOGS The clogs are made from Plaster of Paris. You may use either a figural push mold from Sculpey or , as I did, baby booties from a candy mold from Amazon.com. Follow the directions on the Plaster of Paris box for working with molds. If using the figural mold, pour the feet only. Using the candy mold find the booties I have marked and cut them free from the mold leaving a ½” border around a pair. Paint the inside of the mold lightly with liquid detergent as a release agent. Stir the plaster and water slowly to prevent bubbles but if they form blow on them to remove. Fill the molds just a bit over the top and when the plaster has set a bit use something rigid, like a credit card, to scrape across top of mold to removed excess plaster. When the plaster has cured (it doesn’t take long) remove forms out of mold. When the plaster has dried completely use knifes, files, sandpaper, fine tips on a Dremel Tool, and what have you to shape into backless clogs (if using the feet mold, start by sanding away the toes; if using the booties mold start by separating the pair with a razor saw). Carve/ream out the inside of the clogs. Of course make a matching pair. You will find the plaster to be quite strong but for extra strength you can use Hydro-Cal instead. Paint the clogs with acrylics, green or whatever color pleases you. Add nail- art decal stickers in floral designs for fun & interest...these are so darling and come in a wide variety tiny designs that are great for many mini uses. A big thank you to all who sent some sunshine my way...we had three full days, enough to fortify me for the rain that is predicted for this week. Well, rainy days are a good excuse to spend more time in my studio so I won't complain. See you soon with more projects for your Potting Bench... Joann ========================================== Potting Bench Part 4: CHICKEN PLANTERS WHITE CHICKEN PLANTER Print out copies of planter on bright white paper. Cut out four images. Using quality glue stick, adhere one cutout to approx..1/32” thick, white paper board. When glue has set cut out board around image. Glue a 2nd cutout to the 2nd other side of this piece, lining it up as close as possible & trimming as needed. Repeat procedure for a second side. Cut out the wings from the last two images. Glue them onto the same board. Cut out and glue over wings on prepared sides. Cut out box sides, bottom and ends from 1/16” white matboard or 1/16” thick wood. Glue bottom to sides, set up 1/16” up from bottom edge of sides, as shown. Glue ends between sides and to bottom. If needed paint box white. When glue and paint have set glue box between prepared chicken sides, bottom edges even. Click on image to enlarge. Copy and paste to computer. Print onto matte presentation paper with printer set at actual/exact size or 3.76"W x 4.71"H Use best printer settings. -------------------- Click on pattern to enlarge. Copy and paste to computer. Set to print at actual/exact size or 3.95"W x 2.81"H -------------------- ------------------------------- RED CHICKEN PLANTER Follow directions above for the White Chicken Planter using the separate wing section for the cut-out applique. ----------------------- Click on image to enlarge. Copy and paste to computer. Set to print at actual/exact size or 7.71"W x 1.71"H Print on matte presentation paper at best settings. ---------------------- Click on pattern to enlarge. Copy and paste to computer. Set to print at 3.47"W x 1.49"H ------------------ FILLING THE PLANTERS For these planters I have taken a simple approach. First a square of Styrofoam was cut to fit into the box and glued in place. The top was painted with brown acrylic. Snippets of assorted green dried foliage were poked into the Styrofoam. Next clusters tiny of dried flowers were added. All of this was topped by assorted colors of simple paper daisies. To create the daisies: Cut lengths of fine (#22 or #24) green cloth covered floral wire. Dip a wire tip into thick craft glue and then into yellow, Woodland Scenics Flower/Turf Material. (This soft, shredded material comes in a four pack, yellow, red, pink, white. It is a model railroad product that has many uses miniature-wise. It is available at model railroad shops and thru Walthers online http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/785-48 ). Use your fingertips to shape the material into a flat round approx.. 3/32” across. Poke wire into a scrap of Styrofoam to let glue set. Make as many of these flower centers as desired. Use a 3/16” or ¼” round paper punch to punch out rounds from your choice of lightweight paper. With a pointed stylus poke a hole in the center of the rounds. Insert two rounds onto a prepared wire and push it up to meet the yellow center. Using small sharp scissors (I recommend Gingher Large-Handle Embroidery Scissors (G-40144 for their superior quality and comfort. They are very kind to arthritic fingers) finely fringe around the paper rounds for petals. Use a pointed stylus or such to fray-out the petals. Punch out a 1/16” round from green paper. Poke a hole in the center and insert onto the wire with a bit of glue on top. Push it up tightly to the underside of the petals. If you would like to add leaves to the stems, cut very fine pointed slivers of green paper. Glue these, staggered, down the stem so one end is pointing slightly out. Three or four to a stem is good. I am now working on putting the Potting Bench in place on a base so its accessories can start to be arranged thereon. I have a large list of items to pick and choose from to add to this vignette for your DIY pleasure, but if you would like to suggest something that would be of special interest to you, do so, and I may add it to the list. Here’s hoping you are finding time for some miniature gardening along with the real-life version. Personally, I need to get some more container veggies in…oh, and the cats reminded me not to forget the catnip…their favorite crop. See you soon, Joann ======================================================== Potting Bench Part 5: THE BASE Brick wall, Stone Floor, Grass, Sign The Potting Bench sits on a 6 ½” x 8 ½” purchased picture frame. Everything was removed from the frame & it was painted in the same green and weathered to match the potting bench. A similar checked design to the one on the front of the bench was used on the front and two sides of the frame. For the “flooring” I used a piece of out-of-print, stone patterned scrapbooking paper, Rock Pathway by Jill Webster from Provo Craft. You may be able to find something similar. If not you may choose what I often do: Purchase a full-size, thin, self-stick, textured vinyl floor tile in a pattern and color of stone flooring desired….these are inexpensive and offer many to choose from. Cut the tile to fit your base. Draw irregular shaped stones on the face of the tile. Using a Dremel tool fitted with an appropriate tip, such as a #516 Abrasive Point, ream out around the drawn tiles for motor lines. This is a fun and easy job, best done outside and for sure with a dust mask & safety glasses on. ROCK PATHWAY PAPER BY JILL WEBSTER ------------------------- If you are using paper flooring: Glue-stick it to a piece of matboard and when the glue has set use a large ball stylus to indent around the stones on the grout lines. You may choose as I did to use the frame’s glass on top of the flooring for protection (especially if you wish to glue or sticky-wax down pieces on what may be a temporary basis). Fill in the frame with scrap matboard or whatever is needed to make it flush with the back of the frame. Cut a piece of paper, plain or decorative, to fit over the whole back of the frame, gluing it smoothly down to the frame itself to hold things in place and for a finished look. If you are using the tile flooring you can eliminate the glass and fill in the rest of the space as described. I decided a brick wall would make a nice backing for the bench but there are certainly other ideas that would work such as a trellis, fence, and hedge. For the brick wall I cut a piece of ½” thick foam core board 7” high by the width of my frame opening. A brick patterned printe was used to cover the piece foam core. If you are using the one I have given you print out two sheets. Use a glue stick for adhering….Hint: the secret to success with glue stick is to always use a permanent, acid free brand & apply the glue on both surfaces, such as here, the paper and the foam core. First cover the front by lining up bottom edges of paper and foam core with equal amount of paper extending from each side. Clip the top corners and glue the paper over the ends and top and then to the back of the foam core, without any overlapping. When the glue has set a bit, lightly sand the back edges of the paper so they will not show when covered. Cover the back of the wall with the same paper, all edges flush. Use flat of fingernail to meld the cut edges of the paper to the wall. Using a medium ball stylus and a straight edge, slightly indent the mortar lines between the bricks to add depth. You can also choose to have a plastered-over brick wall. To do this the most important step is to prevent your brick printie from bleeding. So spray both sides of the paper with a couple of couple of coats of clear matte fixative, drying well between and after coats. Apply a heavy coat of Gesso with a flat paintbrush leaving areas of brick showing thru. The Gesso does not have to be smooth. A 2nd coat may be applied if desired/needed. When the Gesso has dried completely sand it as smooth as desired especially around the exposed brick areas. The Gesso may be antiqued/weathered with a light mixture of raw sienna acrylic and Delta Gel Stain Medium. A darker mixture of burnt umber acrylic and gel stain medium may be used to lightly highlight the exposed brick edges and create cracks radiating here and there from them. If you decide to use the plastering technique I strongly suggest you practice a bit on scraps of your brick paper especially to make sure the printer ink does not bleed thru the fixative and tint your plaster. A piece of full sized wood molding was used to top the wall but paper board can also be used. I mixed fine black sand into white acrylic paint to cover the molding. When the paint was dry I lightly washed it with a very watered down gray acrylic, sponging off the excess. The finished wall was glued in place to the glass on the frame, back edges flush. Click on image to enlarge. Copy and paste to computer. Set to print at exact/actual size or 8.29"W x 10.43"H Print onto bright white paper at best settings ------------------ For an added bit of interest and because the birdhouses on the potting bench mean that the bench does not fit flush to the back of the frame, I added some grass in front of the wall. The grass is a terry cloth towel painted in several colors of grass greens and when dry cut into strips. Look for a fine terry cloth and if you start with a green it is easy to cover. Of course you can purchase terry cloth at fabric stores but 2nd hand shops are great sources for soft green towels to convert to grass. I think I will be adding a dandelion or two in the grass…got to have at least one weed. After I decided how I wanted my potting bench to be situated I add a garden sign to the wall. Print the sign onto a medium brown or if you can find it a wood-patterned piece of scrapbooking paper. Gluestick it onto a piece of paper or wood board cut to size. Color the edges with water color pencils to match the print. Click on image to enlarge. Copy and Paste to computer. Set to print at exact/actual size or 6.48"W x 3.00:H Print onto wood grain pattern scrapbook paper using best settings ------------------------ That is it for the day & I will see you in a day or two with more projects to fill this vignette. Do let me know if you are enjoying the Potting Bench project; I like to know that "you" are out there...I see your great numbers but it is inspiring to add your "voice". It also lets me know I am hitting the mark. Joann =============================================== Potting Bench Part 6: Drying Rack + Hydrangeas DRYING RACK The perfect piece on which to hang your herbs and flowers to dry. Or finish the wood a bit more “dressy” and bring it inside to display your lacy needlework. Of course it could also be used in a laundry room. The size of the rack is easily changed, both height and width-wise. It also can have more than two sections. This one is proportioned to fit nicely in a corner of this Potting Bench vignette. You will need: 3/32” square stripwood + 1/16” dowel + wood glue + black wash + fine wire + rust colored acrylic paint + Dremel Moto tool with a 1/16” drill bit or a pin vise fitted with the same. Instructions: Cut four lengths of 3/32” square stripwood, each 4” long for the legs. Lay them evenly side by side and mark the positions of the cross bars, as show in the pattern. Drill 1/16” holes thru the legs, centered side to side. Slightly round off each end of the legs. Cut six cross pieces from 1/16” dowel, each 1-7/8” long. Glue the cross pieces into the legs to join them, constructing two ladder like pieces. The ends of the cross pieces will be flush with the outside of the legs. Wood glue is used here. When glue has set paint the two pieces with a light wash of back acrylic and water to age/weather. Join the two pieces by holding them at right angles to each other and wrapping wire around them to hinge. Color the wire hinges with rust colored acrylic to weather. Use sewing thread to tie your flowers and/or herbs to the rack to dry. Herbs can be simulated by bunches of dried flowers in assorted colors. Click on image to enlarge. Copy and paste to computer. Print at actual/exact size or set to print at 3.72"W x 5.20"H ------------------ HYDRANGEAS You will need: medium to light green floral tape + lightweight paper in light cream tones + ¼” diam. floral paper punch + a medium ball & a pointed stylus + scrap of fun foam & Styrofoam + green floral wire + Crafter’s Pick Ultimate glue + water colors + 3/8” long leaf paper punch (birch works) + lightweight, medium green paper Instructions: For the center of the bloom, stretch a length of floral tape and cut a piece 10” long. Roll and squeeze into a ball that has an approx. 1.4” diam. Slightly flatten the bottom. Poke a hole in the center of the slightly flattened side. For stem, cut an approx. 1½” length of floral wire. Wrap it in floral tape, stretching the tape as you twist it around the wire. Add a dab of glue to one end of the stem and poke it snuggly in the poked hole in the flower center. Poke into a scrap of Styrofoam to dry. Punch out 15 or so flowers using the paper punch & lightweight paper. Lay the flowers on a piece of fun foam and using a medium ball stylus trace around the flower in a circular motion, causing it to cup up a bit and then use the stylus to push down on the center of the flower causing it to completely cup up. Using pointed tweezers, pick up a prepared flower by an edge, dip the very bottom in a bit of glue and place it on the center top of the prepared flower center. Continue in this method until the whole center is covered. Poke into Styrofoam until the glue has set. Make a thin wash of water color paint & water. Use a small brush to apply one or more colors to the Hydrangea. The amount of color is up to you as is the color itself. I suggest you look online or in books at the variety of colors Hydrangea blooms come in. For your drying rack you probably will want to make several color tones. Punch leaves from solid core green paper. Hint: Thicker scrapbook paper usually consist of several plies. With a bit of patience one can pull the plies apart giving nice thin paper with a nice texture. Lay the leaves on fun foam or the palm of your hand and run a pointed stylus down their centers, creating a center vein an shaping them. Add several leaves to the stem of each flower by holding a leaf by its top, dipping the other end in glue and pressing on to stem.. Trim the stems to desired lengths. ------------------------ I really like this drying rack because it is quite simple to construct, has lots of possibilities, and can be varied in so many ways. Let you imagination loose to see how you can use it. see you soon! Joann =============================== Part 7: A PLANT RACK This rustic piece provides extra storage and display room for the vignette. PLANT RACK You will need: 3/32” square stripwood + wood glue + paint and stain in colors of your choice Click on pattern to enlarge. Copy and paste to computer. Set to print at actual/exact size or 8.03"W x 7.00"H -------------- Instructions: Cut: two back legs 5 ½” long (A’s); four back cross pieces 1-13/16” long (B’s); two vertical rack backs 1-13/32” (top C’s) (, two 1-9/16” (middle C’s) and two 1-17/32” (bottom C’s); three back shelf supports 1-13/16” (D’s) Using wood glue assemble the rack back as shown in diagram. Glue the D pieces to and in front of the C pieces for a double thickness that will create a back support for the shelf. Note: You may use the pattern or a ruler as a cutting guide. Double check your measurements before cutting your pieces as you may need to make slight adjustments depending on thickness of glue etc. For rack sides cut two front legs 4” long (E’s); six cross pieces 1” long (F’s); six braces with 45 degree end cuts as shown (G’s). Assemble and glue the side pieces to the back assembly and to each other. Cut six cross pieces 1-13/16” long (H’s). Glue one each, three total, spanning the rack at the center of each H piece, for shelf supports. Glue one each, three total, spanning the rack between the E’s, for rack fronts. You may choose to pre-paint your stripwood before cutting or assembly or do so after assembly and the glue has set. Cut three shelves from cardstock to fit your shelves; paint or stain to match the rack or in wood tones. Glue in place to top of shelf supports. Add a decorative accent to the top of the rack if desired. As seen here a metal button in the form of a sun face was used. Fill the rack shelves as desired with potted plants/herbs, garden knick-knacks, etc. Hopefully it will not take me as long to get back here with the last few projects for this vignette as it did this time. Summer always means more interruptions in my miniature work...usually pleasant ones, like overnight visits from family and friends. But I like to work in long sessions at a time, usually until the sun comes up and that schedule does not work well while trying to entertain. By the way, we actually had a real summer day on the first official day of summer, but alas, it is raining again. I feel for the strawberry and other seasonal farmers here because there have not been enough warm days to make for plentiful crops. But everything in nature is wonderfully green...including the weeds, looks perfect but oh, the allergies, sniff, sniff, sneeze, sneeze. But I won't complain because life is good & crabbing season opens next week! Joann ===================================== Part 8: Seed Storage Box; Seed Packets SEED STORAGE BOX A versatile, easy to create, handled box. Here it is used to hold seed packets but you are sure to find many creative uses for this box. Instructions: Using patterns cut one bottom, two sides, and two ends from matboard. Glue the face of the end pieces to the short edges of the bottom piece, bottom edges flush. Glue the face of the side pieces to the edges of the bottom pieces and end pieces, bottom edges flush and all corners squared up. Cut 3 dividers from poster board and glue into bottom of box, spaced evenly apart. Using colored printies & glue stick cover outside of matboard box. When the glue has set the box may be weathered/aged by lightly sanding here and there and /or using a light mixture of Dark Burnt Umber acrylic paint and Delta Gel Stain Medium. The aging/weathering should be done where this would naturally happen, e.g. corners & edges. Click on image to enlarge. Copy and paste to computer. Set to print at exact/actual size or 4.59"W x 2.49"H Print onto bright white paper. ------------ For the handle I used a thin strip of bamboo from a bamboo mat. It is approx. 1/32” thick and a scant 1/16” wide. I soaked it in hot water until it bent with ease and then cut it to a 3-3/8” length. You may choose to do the same or use the same measurements and cut the handle from poster board. Glue the pre-shaped handle to the ends of the box, securing with a dab of cyanoacrylate glue (Crazy, Super, etc.) --------------------------------- SEED PACKETS Cut out printies. Fold and glue the fronts over the tabs. Hint: because of the small size of these printies you may find it easier to score and fold on line before cutting them out. Arrange packets in storage box. Click on image to enlarge. Copy and paste to computer. Set to print at exact/actual size or 7.11"W x 3.76"H Print onto bright white paper at best settings. ============================================ Part 9: Garden Stakes and Pansies in Planter Box & Side Shelf of Potting Bench GARDEN STAKES Make printies of stake labels onto bright white paper. Cut them out in strips with a scant border on the top and bottom edges. Glue the strips to ¼” x 1/16” stripwood which has eiher been painted white or left natural. When glue has set use a razor saw (Xacto X75300 Precision Razor Saw Set) to separate each label with a slight border on each end. Sand all edges, going slightly onto the paper to smooth out the edges for a painted rather than a papered look. Working with 1/16”thick x 1/8”wide stripwood either left plain or painted white, cut into 1-1/2” lengths for stakes. If painted, lightly sand to expose some wood. One end may be sanded to a point if desired. Glue the stakes to the back of the prepared labels, centered side to side with top edges flush. Click on image to enlarge. Copy and paste to computer. Set to print at actual/exact size or 4.26"W x 1.88"H Print onto bright white paper at best settings. ------------------------ PANSY BOX Click on image to enlarge. Copy and paste to computer. Set to print at exact/actual size or 3.68"W x 3.72"H Print onto bright white paper at best settings. --------------- Cut the box pieces from 1/16” thick stripwood or matboard. Glue the face of the end pieces to the edges of the bottom piece, bottom edges flush. Glue the side pieces to the ends and bottom pieces, all edges flush. Make copies of pansy label on bright white paper, cut out and using glue stick, adhere one label to each side. Use a very light black wash to weather the box and label. Cut a piece of Styrofoam to fit inside of box but slightly shallower. Hint: If you have scraps of foamcore board use this as the fill by first peeling off the top layer of paper. This foam is finer than regular Styrofoam and works well for projects like this. Paint the top of the filler a dirt brown. Fill with pansies. PANSIES Pansies may be white, blue, mahogany, red, rose, yellow, apricot, purple, or striped or blotched bicolored. I suggest you look online at the many color varieties. Blossoms: Cut lengths of #22 green cloth covered floral wire (Sunrise Floral Wires - 22 gauge - Green). Dip the tip of one end of each wire into deep yellow acrylic paint for the pansy center; poke into a scrap of Styrofoam to dry (see hint above regarding foam core). Using Fiskar’s Heart Corner Punch (Fiskars 12-23257097 3-in-1 Corner/Border Punch, Hearts) and desired color of lightweight paper, punch out the multi-sized hearts…each pansy will use one large and two medium hearts as shown in photo. Using a 1/8” round paper punch (Fiskars 12-23518897 Hand Punch, 1/8-Inch, Circle), punch out two rounds of same color. Holding petals flat with a needle tool or pointed stylus, use watercolors and a tiny pointed paintbrush to feather-on color to the pointed sides of the three hearts (not the rounds). Use violet on yellow, white and lavender or mahogany on pink and orange…again look online for possible color combinations & color placement. Place prepared petals & rounds on a piece of thin white Fun Foam. Using a small to medium ball stylus, trace around the shapes causing them to slightly cup-up & crinkle. Pick up the large heart by the fat end with pointed tweezers, dip pointed end into Crafter’s Pick glue, picking up a dab. Place on a prepared flower stem, just under the yellow center at a right angle to stem. Doing the same with the two smaller hearts, place them to each side of, and tucked just slightly under the larger heart. Repeat for the two rounds, overlapping them slightly to fit in the space above the hearts. Poke into Styrofoam to set. Using an approx. 5/16” flower punch, as seen, or a similar one, punch out a dark green paper calyx. Use a needle tool to poke a hole in its middle and insert it with a tiny dab of glue onto the pansy stem, pushing it up flush with the back of the flower. When the glue has set, slightly “rumple” the ”petals” and using tweezers, pull them down and away from the flower. Using needle nose pliers bend the flower back to about a 90 degree angle to the stem. ------------------------------- Buds: Use the large heart from the varied heart side of the Fiskars Hearts punch. Lay two of them on a scrap of thin white Fun Foam and roll over them from side to side with the edge of a pointed stylus, causing them to curl up. Add glue to the inside and roll up fairly tightly on the end of a length of #22 green cloth covered wire, pinching the pointed end tightly to the stem. You may use one or two hearts in one or two colors for the buds. Follow the blossom directions above for creating and adding a calyx to add one to the bud. Use needle nose pliers to bend the bud back from the stem to an acute angle to the stem. ----------------------------- Leaves: Using either of the two designs shown on the Fiskars Leaves Corner punch ( Fiskars 12-23307097 3-in-1 Corner/Border Punch, Leaves ) , punch them out from medium-green, light weight paper. Lay the leaves on a piece of thin white Fun Foam and using a needle tool or pointed stylus, “draw” a line down the center of each. And then “draw” a few vein lines on each side. This procedure will cause the leaves to slightly crinkle up. Three or so leaves may be added to flower or bud stems stem or flower and buds may be placed in Pansy Box or pots and leaves added to fill in around flowers as desired. ======================== So there you have it, the completed Potting Bench vignette filled with all of the above projects and items from my collections. I hope you have enjoyed the project and if so please take a minute to let me know. And if you create the vignette I would love to see your version...if you take photos please share. On to the next DIY project. I am trying to decide between two summer themes so check back to see which I decide on. Hoping your summer is all you desire.... Joann ------------------------------------

Super cute (and easy) DIY fairy garden beach chair - these sweet mini Adirondack chairs are the jewel of any beach themed fairy garden!

This miniature twig bridge would make a cute addition to your fairy garden Measurements: 4" long Made of branches, real moss, artificial orange flowers! Thank you!

Fairy Garden Romantic Dining Set, Handmade Fairy Furniture, Miniature Food, Dollhouse Accessories, Fairy Table and Chair, Valentines Gift DESCRIPTION This is a fairy garden dining set that includes a table and two chairs. On the table there is a miniature vase with flowers. This set is attached to a wooden base with Spanish moss. Your order will come with ONE of the following. You choose: OPTION 1: wine and cheese plate OR OPTION 2: fruit plate This miniature dining set is perfect for your fairy garden creatures to gather and enjoy some refreshments. This whimsical set of chairs and table would be perfect to go inside your fairy house or as a standalone piece in your fairy garden. HANDMADE This piece will be handcrafted when ordered and will vary slightly from the photo as natural materials show their own individual characteristics. The handmade nature of this work means that this fairy garden accessory will be uniquely yours and yours only! This fairy garden accessory is handmade with moss and wood. If you would like to place this fairy garden accessory outdoors, we recommend finding a shady and covered area, protected from elements like wind and rain. We cannot guarantee how well this fairy garden accessory will tolerate weather. Not recommended as a toy for young children. Small pieces may cause choking. DIMENSIONS The Fairy Dining Romantic Set measures approximately 3 inches high, 6 inches wide. -------------------------------------------- Fairies can be found by looking for - Fairy garden, fairy house, fairy garden accessories, fairy miniatures, faeries, fairy door, fairy dust, fairy wand, fae, fairy staff, fairy accessories, fairy furniture, garden fairy, fairy garden potting shed, fairy swing, fairy bed, fairy garden tools, fairy bridge, miniature fairies, fairy ladder, dollhouse, fairy window, fairy windows, gnome house, gnome home, gnome window, fairy garden window, fairy garden windows, fairy garden ladder, feenhaus, feenhaus fenster, fairy window for trees, gnome windows, gnome door, fairy door, fairy doors, fairy doors and windows, gnome windows, outdoor fairy garden, indoor fairy garden

Fairy well Will be not exactly this, show on the photos, but will be made very close to this! This one is already sold! But I hope you will like your creation! <3 It is made of pine barks, real moss, baby acorns, pine cone and a lot of colorful artificial tiny flowers <3 Measurements: The base is: 3.5" wide Height: 4.5" 2" in diam Will be a great addition to your fairy garden! Thank you! :) <3

Welcome, DIY-lovers! Are you in the mood for a bit of magic? Yes, it is this time of the year! Spring is here, we are inviting fairies into our gardens! - Page 3

It is with great excitement that I announce the winners of the 2014 Fairy Garden Contest. Boy was it difficult to pick just four (see the finalists here and here). In my mind, you are ALL winners and the greatest prize EVERYONE won was the magical time you had making your Fairy Garden. Thank you […]

*Note- Please allow 1-2 weeks for your order to process before being shipped. If you need an item sooner, you have an option to add the $10 "rush order fee" to your order, which will expedite your order to 3-5 business days to process before shipping. This fee is good for 1 item. If you purchase multiple items, you will need to purchase a rush order fee for each item. https://www.etsy.com/listing/1348342279/rush-order-fee?click_key=abcb0218b93cf1ba7690c78baad6edbfc8d7dfca%3A1348342279&click_sum=47fccf5a&ref=shop_home_active_1&frs=1 Build a sweet dollhouse garden world with this DIY indoor fairy garden kit. This kit has everything you need to make a cute miniature dollhouse garden scene. It's a great way to relax and relieve stress. Like sand play or Zen gardens, building a your own fairy garden world is a therapeutic experience. It's a fun and easy way to express yourself and build your mental health. Perfect for kids or anyone that loves miniature dolls! It includes a handmade tiny 1.5 inch wire doll which can interact with the dollhouse furniture. You can choose between two available miniature doll options. The dollhouse will be randomly selected between two options (purple or white). The plants included are artificial so it can work great as indoor décor on a table or bookshelf or real plants can be added and it can be placed on a patio outdoors (note- holes would need to be added to the bottom to drain water). This DIY homemade dollhouse garden includes: Galvanized Metal Planter 10.5x5.5x4 inches that says "Flowers & Garden" Organic potting mix soil Dollhouse (randomly selected- purple or white) Dollhouse furniture (bed, TV, table, couch, 2 chairs) Green moss 4 artificial flower stems Model tree Flower bush 2 miniature potted plants 2 wooden tree stumps 2 miniature flowers 1 butterfly jewel 1 ladybug 1 handmade miniature posable 1.5 inch doll (choose between brown hair with purple dress or blonde hair with pink dress) *Some item colors may vary from what is pictured Doll materials: Metal wire Wooden bead Flower petals Flower acrylic charm * This doll is delicate and is only meant for display and not to be played with. Additional items to include: -Wooden fairy garden sign to write your own custom message (ex. "Fairies Welcome", "Enchanted Fairy Garden")- randomly selected - Handpainted inspirational word stones WARNING: CHOKING HAZARD - Small parts Not for children under 3 yrs *For decorative use only. NOT a toy- Recommended for ages six and up Check out my other fairy gardens here: https://www.etsy.com/shop/crystalscreationsst/?etsrc=sdt§ion_id=37136568

Add a touch of charm to your fairy garden with this DIY well, complete with a tiny basket. Follow these step-by-step directions and images to make your minature fairy well magical.