Claire Shaeffer looked to two Dior garments for inspiration when coming up with a method for inserting a standard zipper without visible topstitching. Here’s a closer look at that stitching…
Cording is my new obsession, readers. It's the subject of this week's Stitch-Along post, and I feel like I could cord everything in sight! My little sample above just uses some supplies I had around the house, and I'm eager to try it with some satin cord and maybe even my own self-covered cord. It's a great detail to add around necklines and the hems of skirts. Here's a lovely vintage 50s dress that incorporates cording AND rhinestones--be still my heart. Just look at those pockets! What do you think? Would you like to give this embellishment detail a try? Hope you enjoy the post!
Finally, pictures of the collection I’ve been working on for the past 8 months or so! (See here and here for the work in progress – especially the second picture in the first link). I…
Vogue book of smart dressmaking 1948
Steampunk ist mittlerweile ein Kostüm-Klassiker. Natürlich konnte ich es nicht lassen mein eigenes Steampunk-Outfit zu nähen. Lest mehr in meinem Blog-Post.
Mainbocher, (or Main Bocher, which was his real name) was born and grew up in Chicago. As a former Chicago resident, he had over time donated some of his creations to the Chicago History Museum, and so they finally got things sorted out to do this – very lovely and very well-presented – exhibit. The exhibit […]
Lors de sa montée des marches du film "Mal de pierres" de Nicole Garcia, Marion Cotillard a ébloui le public dans sa robe dos nu dorée. Du croquis préparatoire à l'assemblage en passant par l'entoilage, percez les mystères de cette création couture Dior.
This fantastic 1938 dressmaking book contains hundreds of illustrated steps to help you become a proficient seamstress. Included are directions for altering patterns, making changes to the fit of a garment, matching plaids and prints, pleating, and much, much more.
Vintage dressmaking instruction book,drafting garments,sewing manual Complete treatise on drafting ladies' and children's garments by the square and curves combined Original book printed in 1914 Ebook only, not paper book. File Type: PDF Format - 1 instant download files 157 Pages, Language: English Refunds or returns are not accepted. Therefore, ALL SALES ARE FINAL. However I am glad to resend any file that has been corrupted or does not work in instant download. Please contact me if you have any questions. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------- These books are electronic versions of the originals. Expertly scanned and converted to pdf format. These books can be instantly downloaded and read on a pc, laptop or tablet. This will require you to have adobe reader for your pc or tablet - this is a free download and can be obtained from adobe.com. So, you will be able to enjoy the books as they were originally intended. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out the rest of our items at: https://www.etsy.com/shop/BoutiqueHobby
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I've been working at the National Theatre's Costume Hire Department (where I used to work full time) for the last couple of weeks and made an exciting discovery when going through a rail of new stock one day which I thought you may be interested in seeing here on the blog. This evening dress while gorgeous at first glanced on closer inspection was very stained and in clear need of a bit of attention. I opened it up to see what could be done to rescue it and discovered this... Wowzer! I had in my hands a real piece of designer history! We think it must have been donated to the theatre by some kind soul who could no longer had use for this beautiful piece but wanted it to go to a good home. I love thinking about who first bought this and where they wore it and what the complete outfit was like! We decided that, although the full skirted silhouette suggests 1950s at first glance, this is more of an early 1960s gown because of the style of the high waistline. It looks to me like something that might be worn to a debutantes' ball. Even though the silk is now very stained you can tell the quality of it at first touch. Isn't it the most gorgeous colour! We couldn't find a word to accurately capture it because of the way it changes in the light. In the picture above it looks ivory, in the picture below of the detail at the back it looks more silver/mauve and in other lights it appears quite pink. Those pleats into the centre back waistband add further fullness to the skirt and are just gorgeous in that duchess satin. And I imagine on the shaping under the bust in the picture below is very flattering. So yes the outside is very beautiful; classic, elegant, sophisticated and fashionable. But it's the inside where the fun really begins for us seamstresses! I tried to get as many good pictures of the construction details as I could. Apologies if they don't show up brilliantly, I only had my phone available to snap with! This dress is now though in stock at the hire department along with many other beautiful examples of construction so if you want to take a closer look all you have to do is call up to make an appointment to look around for research! When you first open it up you instantly get an idea of just how much work has gone into making this dress. I imagine it would have been commissioned by the wearer for a particular ball/event and was fitted perfectly for her. The construction of the outer gown itself is beautiful, underlined in silk organza to help hold the shape. But underneath that, as you can see in the picture above is attached another entirely more complex dress consisting of the layers and layers of petticoat and a boned mesh bodice; sort of like a softer, contemporary version of a period corset. The top of the bodice is bound in the same duchess satin as the exterior of the dress which I think is a lovely touch. The closer you look the more of an idea you get of the hours that must have gone into this. There's a huge amount of hand stitching; as you can just make out in the picture below, the entire organza lining is blind stitched to the main fabric. I love that the lining is organza as it means you really can see all the construction details; such as these notches made in the seam allowance around the armhole. You can just about make out the two layers of main fabric and underlining here too. The image below is of the waist seam. Here it looks like some adjustments have been made to the fit to take it in a little at this point. There are a few different rows of machine and hand stitching as well as tell tale signs of uneven seam allowances and things not matching up quite right. It's not what you'd expect from this quality of garment and the rest of the dress is constructed imaculately. I wonder if these alterations were made to accommodate the changing shape of the original wearer or to fit a new owner? Perhaps this dress was passed on from mother to daughter? The dress fastens down the centre back with a lapped metal zip as was common at the time. Plastic zips and invisible zips weren't around yet! I love the metal zips, to me they seem to indicate a sign of times when garments were made to last. Now onto the petticoats. the beautiful shape of this dress is achieved by many full layers of quite stiff petticoats. Working from outside to inside, first you have the main fabric of the dress itself; underlined and lined. Then you have a soft, smooth petticoat layer which helps the main fabric lay flat and smooth and also to move freely on top of the other petticoats and not catch as you moved about. (I'm assuming this was important as the state of the stains under the arms indicates a fair bit of dancing and fun being had in this frock!) I couldn't quite place what fabric this layer is (image below), but it felt like a silk of some kind. Enclosed in the wide hem is horsehair braid. As the fabric of this layer is so fine and soft this technique helps it keep it's fullness around the hem. Finally come three tiers of net petticoats. These are much stiffer than the first petticoat layer and really give the skirt it's body. The hems of each of these tiers also had a form of horsehair braid attached, the likes of which I had never seen before! Isn't it unusual? It was about 3-4" wide. This picture below hopefully gives you a better idea of just how many layers and how much fabric was involved in the skirt of this dress. Just look at the lengths of painstakingly hand stitched hem! I've one final beautiful touch to point out to you in the image below. The straps of the under bodice appeared to be of a very fine, almost wired cord which would have dug into the shoulders I imagine quite painfully! These straps have therefore been enclosed in a loose, narrow silk tube to make them a bit softer on the skin. Another indication of the thought and time that went into making this dress just right. And an indication of how expensive it must have been bought new, I wish I could see it in it's freshly made glory! I hope you've enjoyed this peek inside a vintage designer ball gown as much as I did!
We step inside the atelier of Britain's only haute couture label to see what we can expect from Monday's show in Paris
Claire Shaeffer looked to two Dior garments for inspiration when coming up with a method for inserting a standard zipper without visible topstitching. Here’s a closer look at that stitching…
Introducing the advanced level patternmaking book "Fashion Patternmaking Techniques Haute Couture vol.2" by Antonio Donnanno.
Knowing how to make embellished fabrics or shopping for a ready to use embellished clothes or accessories can add that decorative trends to your fashion collections. There are many embellished techniques that is use to decorate clothes: you can pintuck, ruffle, needle felt, couching and machine embroider plus many more. These techinques are all part of decorative dressmaking.
To start off the new week, I thought I would share a few pieces that I've found which I think are quite inspirational. Of course, I dream of doing them all, but even if I just adopt one into a garment, then that's a good thing too :) I absolutely adore this skirt and how easy it would be to do. The skirt is just an a-line skirt with an added pleat, and of course a zipper. The pleated detail on this skirt is so pretty. I tried to find the website that this jacket came from, but no luck. This is just amazing! Here's another raglan sleeve with great seam details. The next time I make a raglan sleeved garment, I want to give this a try. What a fun peek-a-boo treatment. The neckline on this jacket is wonderful. Look closely, the princess line develops into a notched collar. Now for a little draping inspiration. Love how the drape folds into a pleat. From Haider Ackermann. Such a pretty back. Another interesting piece from Haider Ackermann. A subtle, but incredible pocket detail. Would be great color blocked. Another amazing pocket detail. I think I have to figure this one out! And finally, just because it is just-so-pretty. Isn't this the most incredible jacket?!!! I hope this has made for an awe inspiring start to the week! Happy Monday :) Rhonda
The interior this evening gown from the 1950s is as stiff and structured as any of the pieces from the 19th century. The drapery of the bodice has been stitched onto a support that is essentially a…
Jewelry Of The Week - Can Tab Earrings
207. Omnia Omnibus Ubique, All Things for All People, Everywhere Omnia Omnibus Ubique is the motto of the largest department store in Europe. I’m talking about Harrods in London. Harrods is a…
The art and craft of blending the aesthetics and design with the natural beauty of clothes and its accessories are called fashion designing.
Conceal the raw edges of an armscye with this great technique.
Conceal the raw edges of an armscye with this great technique.
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Conceal the raw edges of an armscye with this great technique.
Claire Shaeffer looked to two Dior garments for inspiration when coming up with a method for inserting a standard zipper without visible topstitching. Here’s a closer look at that stitching…
Alexander Wang, PF15. The Autumn-Winter 2015 pre-collection at Alexander Wang included unusual button positions, spiralling zippers and fabrics with subtle peepholes and gathers. -->A couple of the garments used panels of contrasting fabrics with subtle
Add a couture touch to your seam finishes with this tutorial. By Katie Whittle.
