Hello all, This is going to be my last posting about Savoy, at least for a while. This is the most unusual and likely the most famous of all the costumes in Savoy. The Arvan valley is in the southwest corner of Maurienne, south of Villards and west of Valloise. The image above is of a print which I have hanging on my wall. The costume worn in this valley is distinctive, but there are three basic variants, which differ primarily in the coif used, but also in other details. The first variant is found in the communities on the north side of the Arvan river, namely, Jarrier, St. Pancrace, Fontcouverte and Villarembert. There are subtle differences between the costumes of each community. The second is found in the three communities at the head of the valley, along the two upper branches of the Arvan, St. Sorlin d'Arves, St. Jean d'Arves and Montrond. The print above is of the second variant, which is the best known. The third variant is found in the communities on the south side of the river valley, Albiez the Old, and Albiez the Young. Here is a schematic map of the Arvan valley, It is found in the southwest 'corner' of Maurienne, off the main river valley of the Arc. This costume is extremely colorful and quite unusual in several respects. The basic garment is a chemise, which seems to have a stand-up collar, and only shows around the neckline, but is important as a foundation garment. The skirt is separate from the bodice, or jacket, which has sleeves. The Jacket is closed either by lacing up, in the first variant, or by a line of hooks in variants 2 and 3. The skirt is heavy wool, with a unique construction, with one double band of blue cloth sewn onto the back, a little below the waist in variant 1, somewhat lower in St Jean, variant 2, and just above the knees in variant three. The front is flat, and has 25 pleats from one hip to the other in varians 1 and 2, and only 11 in variant 3. The cincture 'ceinture' is closed in front with homemade 'chainettes', it is about 20 cm wide in variants 1 and two, and considerably narrower in the Albiez's. A rich apron and embroidered shawl is worn in all three variants, and in color varies with the Liturgical season. The three styles of coif are very different. 1. The hair is gathered in a chignon on top of the head, covered with a small coif, and then a 'beguine' of fan or butterfly shaped lace mounted onto a small piece of linen is pinned to it. It varies slightly in shape from one community to another. Jarrier Saint Pancrace Fontcourverte Villarembert 2. The coif is shaped somewhat like a bonnet without the front frill, it is set back somewhat on the head. The main part is cylindrical with a flat back. It is covered with red or rose colored cloth or ribbon. There is a ruched frill of lace attached halfway with the top slanting forward and the sides slanting back. In St. Sorlin the coif is covered with spangles and metallic braid behind the lace frill, and finished off with colored ribbon. In St. Jean the rear is covered with white gauze and finished off with a white ribbon. Saint Sorlin Saint Jean 3. In the two Albiez, the coif is a white bonnet which somewhat resembles the eskeuffia of Upper Maurienne, and combines features of the other two versions. In these last couple of photos, you can see that the jacket is trimmed with colorful woven ribbon, and is hooked closed up the front. This is visible because the Albiez sash is so much narrower than that of the other versions. Sometimes a hand-embroidered strip of cloth is used instead. The hooks are clearly visible, and in this case have been sewn on with green and yellow thread to match the embroidery. A cross on a ribbon is part of all three variants of the costume. The narrow ceinture of Albiez is usually embroidered, edged with ribbon and closed with a simple row of hooks. The apron is of a colorful material, has a patterned ribbon worn over it. The apron and/or the shawl may be embroidered as well. By contrast, the ceinture of the other two variants is wider, is also made of rich cloth, and has ribbon edging, but the two ends do not meet, rather there is a piece which overlaps behind. There are a series of chainettes which stretch across this central panel, and hook onto the edge beyond. This is one of the most striking features of this costume. This first example I believe is of variant 1, and the others of varient 2. There is often trim sewn onto the upper edge of the apron in variant 2. The last component of this costume which is very unique is the skirt and its construction. The top of the skirt is a normal full gathered skirt, but the lower edge is made of up to 30 separate strips sewn on one at a time, each longer than the last, and eased in to fit. Thus the skirt gets larger and larger with each new strip. The front is left flat. Since the number of pleats remains constant, either 25 or 11, each individual pleat gets wider towards the bottom. In many of the communities, the skirts turn up at the bottom to form 'magpie tails'. It takes a skilled seamstress up to 6 months to make such a skirt, the bottom hem may be up to 11 meters around, and the skirt itself may weigh 7 kilos. This results in a remarkable movement of the skirt when walking. If you look carefully, you can see the separate strips in the following photos. St. Jean Albiez St Sorlin Jarrier Magpie tails The only other example of this kind of skirt construction which I know of is the Xhubleta of Albania [ pronounced Djoobleta ]. The xhubleta also has a number of strips sewn on one after the other, each of which is longer than the one before, making the garment wider and wider towards the bottom. In other respects the xhubleta is very different, not being pleated, being attached to a bodice, and having braid sewn on the various strips. Why these two unrelated, widely separated regions uniquely use this method of construction, I have no idea. Interestingly, the xhubleta is also worn with a short waist length jacket which fastens in front, called a mintan, and a wide [to 20 cm] cloth cincture which is highly decorated and hooks closed in front, called kerdhokla. Both of these are additional similarities to the Arvan Costume. This makes for some interesting speculation. Here is a schematic of the construction, a photograph of a xhubleta from the rear and a woman wearing the full costume. Update: Since i published this article, some Albanian researchers have taken this further. They point out the similarity of Arvan with Arvanitiki, one of the names used for the Albanians, the similarity of some genetic haplogroups between the two populations and hypothesize a migration from Albania to this region. Here is one of the articles published on this topic: https://imgur.com/a/a54Lebx Here are just a few more images of the Arvan costume. Thank you for reading, I hope you have found this interesting and informative. Feel free to contact me with requests for research. I hope to eventually cover all of Europe and the Former Russian Empire/Soviet Union. I also gratefully accept tips on source materials which i may not have. I also accept commissions to research/design, sew, and/or embroider costumes or other items for groups or individuals. I also choreograph and teach folk dance. Roman K. [email protected] Source Material: Daniel Dequier, 'Maurienne d'Hier et d'Aujourd'hui', Albertville, 1980 G. Collomb, 'Les Costumes de Savoie', Chambery, 1972 Fabian et Anne da Costa, 'Costumes Traditionels de Savoie', Lyons, 2000 Daniel Dequier & Francois Isler, 'Costumes de Fete en Savoie', Seyssinet, 2002 R. Feuillie, 'Quelques Costumes de Savoie', Annecy, Andre Sainsard, 'Costumes Folkloriques Provinces Françaises', Paris, 1972 Royere, Gardilanne, Moffat et al, 'Les Costumes Regionaux de la France', New York, 1929 Charles-Brun, 'Costumes des Provinces Françaises', Paris, 1937 P. Leroux, 'Costumes Regionaux', Paris, 1940 Caroline Brancq, 'Les Costumes regioneaux d'Autrefois', Paris, 2003 Royere, Gardilanne, Moffat et al, 'Les Costumes Regionaux de la France', New York, 1929 Andromaqi Gjergji, 'Albanian Costumes through the Centuries', Tirana. 2004
Nach dem evangelischen Festgottesdienst mit Kirchgangs- und Festtagstrachten des Heimat- und Trachtenvereins Burg Spreewald People in Wendish/Sorbian traditional costumes after church
Auf der Suche nach historischen Hochzeitsgewändern reist die Fotografin Christina Czybik durch Deutschland. Ihre Bilder dokumentieren fast vergessene Traditionen.
Ons vorige BEZOEK AAN MARKEN was in de zomer van 2009. Woensdag bezochten wij het wederom. Toen wij om kwart voor elf arriveerden, vertrok er net een bus met toeristen die Marken al hadden bezocht. Marken is niet zo groot dat je er een hele dag zult verblijven, maar je kunt je er wel een aantal uren vermaken. Bijvoorbeeld naar de vuurtoren op de oostelijke punt, over de dijk wandelen, iets eten en drinken bij één van de kraampjes of op een terrasje bij een café of restaurant, de souvenirwinkel en het huisje van Sijtje Boes, de winkel van Ma Korving, het stoffenwinkeltje van familie Visser, het klompenfabriekje, met de boot naar Volendam, wandelen door de straatjes met de groen geschilderde houten huizen, de kerk bezichtigen of het museum bezoeken. Het MARKER MUSEUM bevindt zich in zes historische woningen. Eén woning is ingericht zoals een vissersgezin vroeger leefde. Er is een grote collectie van klederdracht, handwerk en gebruiksvoorwerpen. Verder zijn er schilderijen, foto's en een film over de geschiedenis en klederdracht van Marken. Elk jaar wordt het museum grotendeels opnieuw ingericht en worden er spullen uit de grote collectie getoond. Dit jaar wordt er extra aandacht besteed aan het vrouwen en mannen handwerk, zoals borduren, haken, breien, houtsnijwerk, netten en fuiken maken, en volksschilderkunst. Het museum is niet groot, maar er is wel veel te zien. Je ontdekt ook steeds weer iets nieuws in deze kleurrijke collectie. Ik heb weer veel foto's gemaakt en kan het allemaal nog eens rustig bekijken. In de vitrines ligt 18e en 19e eeuws borduur-, brei- en haakwerk (van het haakwerk helaas geen foto). Shetlands breiwerk, gebreide mouwtjes en boorden. Geborduurd mannen- en vrouwenhemd, geborduurde schouderdoekjes met akertjes en geborduurde slopen. Een geborduurd mutsje uit 1787, een geborduurd babyschorteldoek (schort) en bauwtje (borstlapje). Boven de vitrine hangen schilderijen van Marker meisjes. Het meisje links heeft een breiwerkje in haar handen. Hieronder zie je vernaaide linten. Een vernaaid lint is een onderdeel van de hoofdbedekking van de Marker vrouwendracht. De linten zijn hier nu goed te zien, maar ze worden onder de kap gedragen en zijn dan bijna niet zichtbaar. Zo zijn er ook geborduurde keelbanden in verschillende kleuren, keelbanden met initialen voor de kinderen, geborduurde kraagjes en entjes voor langs de hals en mouwen van hemden, geborduurde achterbanden voor de boezel (schort), geborduurde platen voor op de witte boezel. Je ziet deze onderdelen allemaal op de in klederdracht gestoken poppen terug. Een kijkje in de woning van het Marker vissersgezin. Het Pronkbed met de geborduurde slopen. Op de voorgrond beschilderde spanendozen. Op de klok ligt een geborduurd klokkleedje. Prachtige beschilderde spanen dozen voor het bewaren van losse onderdelen van de klederdracht. In het overige deel van het museum staan nog meer poppen in Marker klederdracht opgesteld. (Helaas zijn niet alle foto's scherp.) Voordat we Marken verlieten, liep ik nog even bij de souvenirwinkel van Ma Korving naar binnen. Er zijn prachtige klederdracht onderdelen te koop. VVV WATERLAND ROND MARKEN MARKER MUSEUM Bij Annette, blog KANEELTJE, zag ik prachtige verslagen van haar bezoek aan Marken op 10 april 2015. Er was toen een ontmoetingsdag van de deelneemsters aan de E-CURSUSSEN "HANDWERKEN VAN HET EILAND MARKEN" van Margreet Beemsterboer. Eén van de hoogtepunten van die dag was de Marker pronkrol van Marcella, blog NUTTIG EN FRAAI. Zij maakte deze pronkrol n.a.v. van de 2e e-cursus. (Foto's van de uitgerolde pronkrol zijn te zien bij Annette.)
Hello all, This is the second part of my article on the Lachy. The first part covered the Lachy costume in genera and the Podegrodzie m...
Friuli Hello all, today I will speak about the costumes of the Friuli people, also called the Furlan. This is the third of the Rhaetian / Romanic languages still spoken today. They occupy the northeastern corner of Italy, bordering German speaking areas to the north, Slovenian speaking areas to the east and Venetian speaking areas to the south. Here is a linguistic map of northern Italy. Friuli is shown in turquoise, Ladin in darker blue, German in dark purple, Slovene in orange, Italian dialects in various shades of green. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Friulian_language The Friuli region is divided into three provinces, Pordenone, Udine and Gorizia. There are some Friuli speakers in the Trieste Region, which is very mixed ethnically. The best known folk costume in the Pordenone Province is that of Aviano, which is kept alive by the local Folklore Group. In fact, there are two costumes, as you can see from this photo. The one looks very alpine in character, with soft embroidered slippers and both men and women wearing small shoulder shawls. The other looks older, with some similarity to balkan costume, being based on homespun wool and having conical straw hats. The northwestern part of the Province of Udine forms the region of Carnia. This borders on Austria to the north and the Province of Belluno to the west, and lies north of Aviano. Notice that this woman is wrapping her headdress in the same manner as they do on the Croatian Island of Krk [Veglia], which is not that far away. One of the local Folkloric groups is Sot la Nape. There are several groups from around Udine, Often the scarf here is folded or pinned back onto the head forming wings. Here is the costume of Ciconnico. This is the Folklore Group Pasjan de Prato. There is a significant Slovene Population in the eastern valleys of Udine province, Most famously in Val Resia, [Rezijanska Dolina]. The Slovene groups also participate in the local festivals. The dialect spoken in this valley is so distinctive that it is sometimes considered to be a separate language of its own. In the Province of Gorizia [Gorica] there are also many Slovenes. The costume here shows influence from Venice and the coastal regions. One of the local groups is Lucinico. They do presentations in the everyday work costume as well as the dress up version. Another group in this region is Santa Gorizia. They are well known for their elegant costumes and dancing. http://www.santagorizia.it/costumi/index.php?action=costumi On the borders of Trieste is the town of Monfalcone. Thank you for reading. I hope you have enjoyed this overview of Furlan Costumes. I feel like I need more information to do a more systematic job, but this is the material which I currently have. You can see more images and local groups on this website which shows pictures taken at a Friuli Folklore Festival. http://www.folklorefriulano.it/9giornata.html Here are a couple of videos of Friuli groups dancing. This is the group Pasjan di Prato doing Torototele https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g61PCYYCWy4 Here is the group Santa Gorizia doing La Vinca. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SffVIVAxa64 The same group dancing Mazurka and another dance. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WU91B1X4nM4 A Slovene Group from Val Resia [Rezija] dancing https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=endscreen&NR=1&v=qddorb41XGo Feel free to contact me with requests for research. I hope to eventually cover all of Europe and the Former Russian Empire/Soviet Union. I also gratefully accept tips on source materials which i may not have. I also accept commissions to research/design, sew, and/or embroider costumes or other items for groups or individuals. I also choreograph and teach folk dance. Roman K. [email protected] email Source Material: Emma Calderini, 'Il Costume Popolare in Italia', Milan, 1953 Most of this material i found on the web, especially on the websites of the various groups which keep the Furlan traditions alive.
Hello all, I received a request for some information the traditional clothing of Switzerland, especially of the area around Luzern, so I will give a very short overview of this information. Switzerland, as is well known, is a multilingual nation which strongly identifies as one ethnicity. This is extremely unusual, and is rooted in the fact that the Swiss Confederation was voluntary on the part of its citizens, at least at first, and as it grew, that was still mostly true. Here is a linguistic map of Switzerland, one showing the names of the cantons, and one showing more detail. Covering the cantons from the northeast, going counter-clockwise. This is a very short and incomplete overview. Allemanisch or 'German' Switzerland: St. Gallen Appenzell Thurgau Schaffhausen Zurich Zug Schwyz Glarus Uri Unterwalden [includes Obwalden and Nidwalden] Luzern Aargau Basel Solothurn Bern This is a large canton with several costumes, here is just a sample. Emmental where the famous cheese comes from Emmental on the right, Bern midlands on the left Berner Mutz Oberhasli Saanenland 'French' and Savoy, or 'Welschland' Switzerland. [Welsch is an old Germanic word meaning 'people whose language we don't understand'] Jura Neuchâtel Fribourg Vaud Geneva Valais/Wallis The west half of the canton is French/Arpitan speaking, and the east half is German/Allemanisch speaking. This canton is also rather large and rich in costumes. Ticino This, along with a couple of the southern valleys of Graubuenden, makes up 'Italian' Switzerland. Grischun/Grigioni/Graubuenden/Grisons The last canton, home of the Romansch language, also home to German/Allemanish and Italian speakers. Thank you for reading, I hope that you have found this interesting and informative. Feel free to contact me with requests for research. I hope to eventually cover all of Europe and the Former Russian Empire/Soviet Union. I also gratefully accept tips on source materials which i may not have. I also accept commissions to research/design, sew, and/or embroider costumes or other items for groups or individuals. Roman K. email: [email protected] Source material: Lotti Schuerch - Louise Witzig, 'Trachten der Sweiz', Bern, 1978 Louise Witzig, 'Schweizer Trachtenbuch', Zurich, 1954 Louise Witzig et Edwige Eberle, 'Costumes Suisse', Lausanne,
For part 1 GO HERE ~ costume traditionale romanesti, port popular romanesc ~ . Coming from self-sufficient communities, Romanians made their own clothing: the main clothing pieces wer…
Hello all, I received a request for some information the traditional clothing of Switzerland, especially of the area around Luzern, so I will give a very short overview of this information. Switzerland, as is well known, is a multilingual nation which strongly identifies as one ethnicity. This is extremely unusual, and is rooted in the fact that the Swiss Confederation was voluntary on the part of its citizens, at least at first, and as it grew, that was still mostly true. Here is a linguistic map of Switzerland, one showing the names of the cantons, and one showing more detail. Covering the cantons from the northeast, going counter-clockwise. This is a very short and incomplete overview. Allemanisch or 'German' Switzerland: St. Gallen Appenzell Thurgau Schaffhausen Zurich Zug Schwyz Glarus Uri Unterwalden [includes Obwalden and Nidwalden] Luzern Aargau Basel Solothurn Bern This is a large canton with several costumes, here is just a sample. Emmental where the famous cheese comes from Emmental on the right, Bern midlands on the left Berner Mutz Oberhasli Saanenland 'French' and Savoy, or 'Welschland' Switzerland. [Welsch is an old Germanic word meaning 'people whose language we don't understand'] Jura Neuchâtel Fribourg Vaud Geneva Valais/Wallis The west half of the canton is French/Arpitan speaking, and the east half is German/Allemanisch speaking. This canton is also rather large and rich in costumes. Ticino This, along with a couple of the southern valleys of Graubuenden, makes up 'Italian' Switzerland. Grischun/Grigioni/Graubuenden/Grisons The last canton, home of the Romansch language, also home to German/Allemanish and Italian speakers. Thank you for reading, I hope that you have found this interesting and informative. Feel free to contact me with requests for research. I hope to eventually cover all of Europe and the Former Russian Empire/Soviet Union. I also gratefully accept tips on source materials which i may not have. I also accept commissions to research/design, sew, and/or embroider costumes or other items for groups or individuals. Roman K. email: [email protected] Source material: Lotti Schuerch - Louise Witzig, 'Trachten der Sweiz', Bern, 1978 Louise Witzig, 'Schweizer Trachtenbuch', Zurich, 1954 Louise Witzig et Edwige Eberle, 'Costumes Suisse', Lausanne,
Nach dem evangelischen Festgottesdienst mit Kirchgangs- und Festtagstrachten des Heimat- und Trachtenvereins Burg Spreewald People in Wendish/Sorbian traditional costumes after church
Auf der Suche nach historischen Hochzeitsgewändern reist die Fotografin Christina Czybik durch Deutschland. Ihre Bilder dokumentieren fast vergessene Traditionen.
Portrait of a girl wearing traditional clothing, Alsace, France
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