Debbie Bliss Magazine has released its Fall/Winter 2014 issue. Let's have a look at it, shall we? Ballet Slippers. These are nothing special. A quick search on Ravelry would produce a number of much more accomplished ballet-style slipper patterns. Blackberry Stitch and Cable Sweater. The stitchwork used here is attractive, but the shaping of this item is really pretty awful. Also, if you make this sweater in this colour, you might want to avoid wearing a black bra under it as the model has done. Cable and Moss Stitch Sweater. Classic cabled sweater with decent shaping. Cable socks. A simple yet pleasing sock pattern. Cabled Armwarmers. These look too much like upcycled sweater arms. Cabled Mitts. Upcycled sweater arms, take two. Cabled Shoulder Cape. This is actually pretty cute. The texture is good and the style has a certain piquant charm. Cabled Shoulder Cape and Ribbed Top. I'm torn about this one. I think the idea of a cape and sweater set is a great new concept, but I'm not thrilled with this particular execution of it, which looks kind of like the model was putting on a sweater and skirt set and got the skirt stuck around her neck. This cape needs to look a little more like a cape. Adding a collar would help. Cabled Swing Tunic. The shape of this one is totally unflattering even on this professional model. Chevron Cowl and Handwarmers. Not thrilled with this set, which has a rather schlumpy look to it. The handwarmers again look like sections of sweater sleeves. A better fit through the wrist (and dare I say it, finger coverage) would help with that. Cocoon Club. This is quite a nice piece. I'd want to try wearing it pinned it in front with a shawl pin for a more fitted, stylish look, though it's fine worn open. Cropped Cable Sweater. It's hard to go wrong with a classic cabled turtleneck like this one. If the cropped length or waist-emphasizing deep waistband isn't for you, those design elements can be easily altered. Dramatic Drape coat. This jacket definitely has great texture and a certain style, though I would suggest wearing it over something fitted and/or with a belt for a more flattering look. Extra-Wide Multi Cable Tunic. My goodness, this is a sweater so unflattering the Debbie Bliss Magazine editors even acknowledged as much in the name of the design. I mean, not only is the the sweater huge, but there are two dropped shoulder seams in each sleeve. Horizontal stripes are notoriously hard to wear and this designer went with horizontal cables, and then there's the way the front panel protrudes. Don't take this to mean that I think every last woman's sweater needs to be some fitted little number. Sometimes a woman just wants to wear something relaxed and roomy, and if she wants all her sweaters to have that kind of fit, that can look just fine too. But there's a relaxed, roomy fit and then there's fitting like a house. This is definitely the latter. Fair Isle Beret. Very pretty and classic child's hat. Fair Isle Legwarmers. Legwarmers can look so fetching on a young girl, and this is a nicely worked pair. Fair Isle Sweater. Lovely little sweater. There is something so appealing about fair isle patterns on a child. Fair Isle Yoke Jacket. Love this pattern, which has a good shape and nice detailing. And you'll achieve the charm of a fair isle piece with far less work than an all-over fair isle pattern. Hottie Cover. I don't know how practical this is, but then I never use a hot water bottle. I suppose it's cute and easily whipped up if you think you will use it. Jacket With Contrast Band. Hoo boy. This looks like one of those dreadful beginner projects that reduce everyone but the gloriously oblivious maker to cringing and hoping that the light of realization will dawn on her at some point. And if it ever does, she'll first delete or destroy all photo or video evidence she can get her hands on, and then sit up all night behind drawn window shades, ripping the thing out and wondering if she'll have plausible deniability once the yarn is knitted into a different style. Lacy Shawl. Very pretty lace shawl. Moss Stitch Turban. Does anyone really wear this sort of thing for occasions other than filming a facial cleanser commercial? Ombre Sweater. Ooh, really like this one. There's nothing quite like a gradient colour scheme when it's done right, as it is here. The mohair yarn used here really helps blend the colours. Pajama Case. As with the turban... I don't know who would use this item. I for one do not want the bother of folding up my pajamas and putting them in a fussy little case every morning. And it's nothing special from a design perspective. Parka. This is a little on the rough and ready side, like it needs more work to look finished. It looks cute on this child model, but then anything would. Pink-Edged Sweater. Nice simple pullover. The contrast cuff and neckline is a nice touch, though there are much better colour combinations to use than the one employed here. Shawl-Collared Sweater. Lovely, classic piece. Short-Sleeved Sweater. This is a nice, simple piece. A large part of its charm is that it's knitted in Debbie Bliss's Angel, which is a kid mohair and silk blend and a really luscious, beautiful yarn. Sleeveless Top. This is another one of those designs that have that crude and unflattering "beginner project" look. Even if you are a beginner knitter, there are better patterns out there for you. The Sun and Moon Cushions. This is a cute concept that deserved a better, more artistic execution. These are just too simplistic to be appealing. That's a Wrap. Hmm, this has some style, and the texture is good. Make this in a beautiful yarn and it will serve you well. Toasty Tunic. Nice piece. The texture and shape are good and it'll work well with leggings as it is styled here. That neckline sits rather low, but it's easily raised if you'd prefer that it lie higher. Tweed Coat with Back Pleat. Love this piece. The shape is good and it has polished little details like the buttoned straps on the cuffs and, apparently, a back pleat, though we can't see it here. V-Neck Tunic. Very simple v-neck pullover in Angel. Again, it's the Angel yarn that makes it.
by Lily / Sugar'n Cream Free Pattern: http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/market-bag-knit
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THIS POST IS REPUBLISHED FROM 2015: I started this rug as a bit of an experiment and with no plan to create a tutorial so please forgive me if the photos are a little cobbled together. OK guys, now this is more of a marathon than a sprint (although it is super quick) so I think we need to organise ourselves before we start. Why ? because of course I jumped in feet first and fluffed up a few things and could have done them better so you guys get the benefit of my experience. You will need : Cotton sashing cord: I started with 8mm and had to really squeeze it under my presser foot. Once I ran out of 8mm I had to use 7mm - and it was much easier. You may need to see what your own machine is happy to cope with. My finished rug measures approx 47 inches across and I used 125 metres (almost 400 feet) of cotton sashing. Fabric strips: Any length x 1 1/4 inches wide. (Depending on my mood, I ripped some and cut some.) My strips varied between 1 and 2 inches but I found the narrower ones easiest to wrap. I have no idea how much fabric I used but my scraps are once more actually fitting in the scrap basket. Polyester Thread : Lots of thread - more thread than you can imagine. It is a good idea to pre-wind a stack of bobbins as well, because once you get started you are going to want to keep on going - it is highly addictive! Jeans needle: I started with a regular needle and broke one before commonsense kicked in and I switched to a jeans needle. Set Up: OK guys, this is the secret to success. You need to be able to sew somewhere that your machine will be at the same level as a flat surface roughly the size of the rug you want to make. You cannot fudge this step or you will end up making a basket. I started by putting the weird little plastic table on my sewing machine (I have never used it) but in the early stages the rug grows so quickly that it outgrew that little table in no time. In the end, my kitchen table, butted up against the kitchen bench (With the Guinness book of records under my machine to raise it) was the perfect workstation. There is a box, also on a book behind my machine and once the rug got wider than this arrangement I put chairs next to the bench. Yep, home beautiful all the way. You really need to be able to sort this out, if you don't have a flat surface it is impossible to keep your rug flat. Machine settings: I set my machine at the widest zigzag stitch possible and the stitch length at roughly the midpoint of what my machine offers. Getting started: Simply wrap one of the strips around the end of your sashing, making sure you have covered the end. If you look closely you can see, not only the zigzag stitch but also a straight stitch running the length of the cord. I began by stitching the length of the cord after I had wrapped it. I soon realised this was double handling and it wasn't really needed. Wind your covered sashing into a circle and sew. It could not be simpler. Joining: Simply tuck the next fabric strip into the one previous and keep wrapping. You will most likely get little bits hanging out - it is no problem at all, they get hidden as you add the next row around the rug. I began by sewing the ends of the sashing cord together but that meant taking the rug out of the machine each time. The sashing cord had tape on each end to stop fraying, so in the end I just taped them together - woohoo !! Easy !! As the rug grows it is going to get heavier - a lot heavier ! It will then become harder for your machine to 'pull' the rug through. Once the rug became very large, I would sew about 20 cm and then pull the rug around, constantly readjusting it so I was doing the heavy work not the machine. Tips: if you have a needle up/needle down function on your machine set it at needle up. Once your rug gets large and heavy and you start shoving it around a bit,you are less likely to break a needle if you leave it up. Finishing: I took this photo late at night so please excuse it. I wrapped the end of the sashing in sticky tape (just one layer) and then cut it, tapering it to a kind of point. I covered the raw cut edge with a bit more tape and then wrapped it and sewed. A little spot of backtacking and the rug is done! Note : My machine collected an amazing amount of lint during this project. I am not sure if it was the hours of sewing in one sitting, or something to do with the cotton sashing but it is worth your while to stop every few hours and remove the lint build up. If you have any questions I will answer them in the comments so everyone can read them, so make sure you pop back to get your answer.
Die Natur spielt verrückt und es kann im Sommer genau so kalt werden, wie auch im Winter. Deshalb möchten wir Socken stricken lernen und jede
Create your own fabulous purse with this Plastic Canvas Purse Sheet! Ready to cover in yarn, dazzling buttons, and so much more, this purse sheet is a blank canvas - all that's missing is your creativity. Personalize it to your heart's content for a purse that you'll love and adore!
Materials: 175| 175 | 200 (225 |250 | 300) g silk mohair of the main colour, e. g. “Kid Silk Mohair“ by Hobbii in the shade Sandy Beach(195 m/ 25 g) 5 balls of silk mohair in 5 different colours for the bobbles, e. g. “Kid Silk Mohair“ by Hobbii (195 m/ 25 g) IMPORTANT: Depending on the size you are knitting, you will need 8 to 20 g of each colour. Note: If you use different yarn, check the yardage to be sure you have the right amount of yarn. 3.5 and 4.5 mm circular knitting needles (and/or DPNs for the sleeves/ the i- Cord Edging) darning needle stitch markers or left overs Knitting Tension 10x10 cm = 18 stitches x 26 rows in stockinette stitch on 4.5 mm needles, blocked and washed Measurements: Burst circumference finished sweater: 90 | 96 | 102 (111 | 122 | 130) cm with a positive ease of around 10 cm. Length: 49 | 53 | 55 (63 | 66 | 69)cm Structure: Knitting Pattern for a sweater with colourful bobbles, made of soft silk mohair yarn with a deep V-neck and wide sleeves. The sweater is worked top down with raglan increases. The fit is loose, the sleeves are wide and tighten at the cuffs. After forming the V- neck, the left and right front are connected and the sweater is knitted in one piece, until you separate the sleeves. First you are going to finish the body and afterwards the sleeves. Body and sleeves are finished with a 1x1 rib pattern – optional you can finish the sleeves with an i-Cord Edging. The V- neck will be finished with an applied i-Cord.
