When you've finished writing your knitting pattern, you've only finished the first step of the process. Often the following steps, where your pattern is reviewed and edited, take even longer. If you're familiar with the design process, you're likely familiar with the terms "tech editing," but what does that mean and how does it work? In this blog post, I talk about what a tech editor does, what they're looking for and editing in your pattern, how to find a tech editor, what to expect in the tech

The same way there are two versions of knit decreases, there are also two versions of purl decreases: the right-leaning and the left-leaning. *A purled decrease which slants RIGHT as seen from the front side of a stockinette fabric is not usually called a "right leaning purled decrease." Instead, the decrease is named by its method of creation. In other words, these right leaning decreases are usually called "purl 2 together" (usually abbreviated "p2tog") because that's what you do to get them. *A purled decrease which slants LEFT as seen from the front is called various things, but hardly ever simply "left leaning purled decreases." Instead, like the right-leaners, these left-leaners are also usually named for their method of making. So, just to confuse the heck out of you, these left-leaners are sometimes also called "p2tog," just like the right leaning ones. Other, more common names include "slip, slip, purl" ("ssp") or "purl 2 together through the back loops" (usually abbreviated "p2tbl" but sometimes "p2togtbl.") RIGHT LEANING (as seen from the front) This is a simple one step process: Instead of sticking your right needle into the first (green) stitch at the tip of the left needle and purling it, you instead stick your right needle into the first two stitches (green and blue) and purl them together, as shown below. The result, as seen from the front, is shown below. Do you see what you've done? By first inserting your right needle into the first stitch on the tip of the left needle (the green stitch) and next into the second stitch on the left needle (the blue) you have forced the green stitch in front of the blue stitch, as seen from the front (knit side) of the fabric. The green stitch has "eaten" the blue stitch to its right thus pulling the green stitch rightwards ---> over the blue stitch, and this is what forces the decrease to slant right. The slant is not purely rightwards, however, but "up and to the right" because the base of the stitches remains separated--it is only the heads which you've merged. As stated earlier, these right leaning decreases are usually called "p2tog." LEFT LEANING (as seen from the front) This is a three step process Step 1: Slip the first (green) stitch on the tip of the left needle onto the right needle KNITWISE. This means to insert the needle into the stitch as if you were going to knit it. When the right needle is inserted this way and then the stitch slipped off, the stitch turns away from its usual right-arm-forward orientation. Now, the left arm of the stitch is forward (towards you) and the right arm is back (away from you.) Note that you do not pass a yarn through this loop, you just slip it from the left needle onto the right one, changing its orientation along the way. Repeat this process with the next (blue) stitch on the tip of the left needle. You will wind up with both the blue and the green stitches on your right needle, and both should be laying left arm forward as shown by the red arrows. Step 2: Return the blue and green stitches to the left needle without disturbing their orientation. The end result of all this slipping and sliding should be the blue and the green stitch laying on the tip of the left needle, oriented left arms forward, right arms back. Once these stitches are parked on the left needle, you will insert the tip of the right needle into the right (back) arms of both of these stitches as shown by the red arrow. Note that the right needle is to insert from the back, first under the right arm of the BLUE stitch, and then under the right arm of the green stitch. This is admittedly a bit awkward, but persevere. Step 3: Again: once your right needle has followed the path of the red arrow, it will have been inserted first through the right (back) arm of the second stitch on the left needle (the blue stitch) and next through the right (back) arm of the first stitch on the left needle (the green stitch) as shown. Note also that the running yarn has been brought to the front before the right needle is inserted, in order to make it possible to purl. Once you draw the running yarn through these two loops, the result, as seen from the front, is as below. The loop through which the needle was first inserted, here the blue one, has been forced to the front. This blue stitch has "eaten" the green one to its left, which pulls the blue stitch over its neighbor and the resulting decrease will slant right as seen from the front of a stockinette fabric *after the re-orientation steps (in other words, when you get to step 3) then if you first insert your right needle through the SECOND (blue) stitch on the left needle tip and then through the first (green) stitch, the blue will be pulled

Test knitting is a fixture in the online knitting world. Here's how to use test knitting effectively and when you should get a tech editor.

There's a dark side to knitting that most of us refuse to acknowledge. Like anything material and mortal on this planet, nothing is objectively purely good without a little bit of darkness thrown in there. The same can be said for knitting; while its benefits are numerous, there's no doubt that every seasoned knitter out there has found him or herself poring over their needles in frustration, annoyance, sadness, or just plain anger. Knitters of almost any skill level can testify to these common problems associated with knitting, but knowledge is power! While these disadvantages are most certainly outnumbered by the advantages of knitting, we can still quite easily combat each and every one with certain techniques or a change of attitude. Rather than ignore our frustrations with knitting, it's much more productive to address each one.

Wanting to decrease your tech editing costs but still publish high quality knitting patterns? The key is to pre-edit your pattern yourself before you send the pattern to your tech editor. This will help reduce your tech editor's workload by catching many of the smaller mistakes and reduce the amount of back-and-forth communication required for finalizing your pattern. So what are the most important things to check in your knitting pattern before sending it to your tech editor? What Mistakes Do Y

Not sure where to begin with tech editing? This guide answers every question, including what tech editors do, how to find one and how much they cost.

Test knitting is a fixture in the online knitting world. Here's how to use test knitting effectively and when you should get a tech editor.

Designing knitting patterns can be very daunting for people who have never done it before. Where do you even start? Figuring out where to start can be so challenging that it can often result in us doing nothing at all. In this blog post, I break down some of the common obstacles that prevent aspir

We often think of crochet and knitting as “low-tech” hobbies. After all, you only need a hook or knitting needles and yarn to get started. But don’t discount knitting and crochet apps just yet – they can be of great help to you in making and finishing your projects! Why use knitting and crochet apps? Like many things that have gone digital to make life easier, knitting and crochet apps can also make your crafting life easier. What really draws us to the apps are the way in which you can keep track of multiple works in progress at any one time without having to keep adding the info to different pages in a notebook. Not using a (physical) notebook can be very handy not only because of the space saved in your project bag, but also because it’s much easier to switch between different projects without getting the pages mixed up. Rather than having the printed pattern and pens with you at all times to follow charts, etc., the apps into which you can import the patterns mean that you don’t need to carry the printed pattern around with you. This is especially handy when you’re out knitting in public, with friends, or simply in the garden. Because these apps can also count more than one element of the pattern at once, it saves you from having multiple counters on your needles or hands with which to keep track! The main types of knitting and crochet apps The available crochet and knitting apps are either simple row counters, links with Ravelry, or serve as a place to import all your patterns and other info to keep track of your works in progress and your stash of yarn. While most of the apps are free, there are some that you can pay for to keep from seeing advertising. If you really like an app and use it, then paying for the premium version is never a bad idea. However, give yourself ample time to get to know the app and how it works before deciding whether or not to use it. Because there are many apps available, you aren’t stuck with just one choice, so go out and experiment! Some of our favorite knitting and crochet apps Here are some of our favorite apps, divided into row counters, all-round apps, and those apps that link with Ravelry. BeeCount Knitting Counter by Knirrir If you’re looking for a simple counter for your knitting and crochet, we suggest using BeeCount Knitting Counter. Free and open source, this handy counter is one of the few apps that are free and yet doesn’t have ads. BeeCount’s interface is easy to work with and you can store multiple projects’ info on the app. BeeCount works on Android, iOS, and browsers. Knit Tink by Jennifer K. Warren A relatively new app is Knit Tink. This easy-to-use app is like the pared-down cousin of BeeCount. It’s limited to three projects (at the moment), and currently you can track your tools and yarn, the rows and repeats of a pattern, edit your patterns, and reset the counters. Although there is a paid version, the price is low. Kint Tink is available on Android and iOS. Row Counter – Knitting and Crocheting lines count From the creators of Knitting Genius and Crochet Genius, Annapurnapp Tech, now comes Row Counter – an app that does much more than the name suggests. With Row Counter you can actually download your patterns into the app – both webpages and pdf. You also have direct access to Ravelry in order to access your library or to search their website. You can also: Set up several counters to track increases, design or color changes Add reminders for specific rows Use it as a basic counter The app even has voice control, which means that you don’t need to touch the app while knitting or crocheting! Row Counter is available on Android and iOS. The Knit and Crochet Counter Available on iOS is another all-round app called The Knit and Crochet Counter. Much like Row Counter above, The Knit and Crochet Counter can be used to track different projects, and post to or access Ravelry. Other than the other apps we’ve looked at, you can use The Knit and Crochet Counter to directly post your work to various social media networks. The app also syncs across your iOS devices. Crochet and Knit Daifukoo’s Crochet and Knit app is definitely one of the stars of their range of crafters’ apps. With four different counters available per project, stitch libraries, and even a time tracker, this app is certainly one to look at. The Crochet and Knit app also has: an integrated calculator for yarn quantity, number of stitches and number of rows knitting and crochet abbreviations in various languages knitting needle and crochet hook size charts common yarn weights and gauges. Like most of these apps, Crochet and Knit does contain ads and in-app purchasing options. Crochet and Knit is available on Android. Tip: Always make sure that the app that you want to use are available for your phone or tablet’s operating system (iOS or Android) before buying it or trying to install it.

One of the disadvantages of knitting a pieced sweater is all the finishing that’s involved, and one of the most unpleasant duties when it comes to finishing a sweater is sewing in the sleeves…

Double knitting creates two layers of fabric simultaneously, on one set of needles. This provides warmth for bed socks and ­protection for laptop covers.

How do you knit a left-leaning decrease? What is the best mirror-image counterpart to a K2tog (knit two together) decrease? Let's find o

Test knitting is a fixture in the online knitting world. Here's how to use test knitting effectively and when you should get a tech editor.

This time of year I’m always thinking about the basics of knitting and the little things we can do to make even simple patterns look a little more interesting and beautiful (see my post ̶…

What is the yarn weight when knitting with yarn held double or with two strands of yarn held together? This tutorial walks you through the math.

Test knitting is a fixture in the online knitting world. Here's how to use test knitting effectively and when you should get a tech editor.

Knitters, Crocheters, Sewers, and Computer Users, listen up! "Knitting Comfortably" is your first step toward preventing injuries related to your craft.

The ultimate list of knitting tools every knitter need. From needles to yarn swifts, scissors, and blocking mats - these items are essential for this hobby.

When you think about knitting, you might picture grandmas clicking big wooden needles or something wintery, like a snow-covered lodge. But knitting is everywhere, producing just about everything you put against your skin each day, from socks and t-shirts to hoodies and beanies. And thousands of years after it was…

Learn more about casting on and binding off! This Knitting Cast On and Knitting Bind Off Techniques infographic shows you that you can start and stop your knitting projects in a variety of ways. If you've ever wondered what the difference is between a standard bind-off and a tubular bind-off, or a knitted cast-on and long-tail cast-on, this free printable infographic gives you a helpful snapshot comparing techniques. While this infographic does not teach you how to cast on and bind off, it does give you an image of what the cast-ons and bind-offs look like, why they are different, and what uses each unique technique may have. Get a snapshot of the different knitting cast-ons and bind-offs with this helpful, demystifying infographic.

It seems like there's an app for everything these days, right? Well, tech-savvy knitters will be glad to know there are tons of knitting apps out there that help make knitting easier and even more fun! We asked the AllFreeKnitting Facebook followers what they thought were the best knitting apps, and there were way more than we could have possibly imagined. Unfortunately, we cannot feature every single knitting app out there -- although they're all great. Whether you're just starting out in the world of knitting or you're a knitting expert, there's an app here for you. Here are the 9 knitting apps that all knitters should have for keeping track of patterns, measuring gauge, counting stitches, browsing knitting stitch galleries, and so much more. For more great projects like this, subscribe to our free email newsletter!

Part 2 of my new series of what tools to use to make knitting charts. This week: Browser tools.

TECHknitting blog is not about knitting rules, in fact quite the opposite--it's about knitter's choice. Yet if someone INSISTED that I HAD to state a rule, that rule would be to put a good sturdy seam across the shoulder tops and bind off the back of the neck of your knitted garment. The rule You see, the shoulder tops and neck back are the foundation of every sweater. Stated otherwise, unless you live on a space station without gravity, the point of greatest contact between you and your sweater is the shoulder seams and back of the neck, because the whole garment hangs from there. If the very top of the garment is yielding--if the neck back stretches out sideways and the shoulder seams are soft--then that garment will slip and slide from your shoulders and will never sit right. Exceptions to the rule Although I say a good sturdy seam is a rule, like all rules, there are exceptions and partial exceptions. Tight garments with negative ease cling to the body and so need not have a sturdy shoulder--in fact the ultimate negative ease garment--the tube top--has no shoulders at all. In a very tight negative-ease sweater, there is very little weight hanging from the shoulder because it clings, rather than drapes. Sleeveless garments and backless garments are held up with shoulder straps or perhaps even a tie and have no shoulders. These, too, are often quite tight garments, and their cling, coupled with the scanty amount of fabric means that there is no particular weight to drag the garment down. Raglan sleeve garments, strictly speaking, do not have a shoulder seam either--they instead rely on 4 yoke seams radiating from neck to underarm to take the weight so no shoulder seam is needed. However, even these should have their neck backs bound off. Yoke-style sweaters don't have seams, either. Instead, their construction has radiating columns of knitting extending out from the neck hole like a sunburst, and this arrangement helps distribute the weight to hang from the neck facing. These too require no shoulder seams, but their neck backs should be bound off, especially since the neck seam is the target for all the weight of this style garment. Yet, although there are four exceptions to the "shoulder seam" rule (and probably more I'm overlooking) these are the kinds of exceptions which "prove the rule," as the saying goes. In other words, these exceptions show that the shoulder seam rule doesn't apply only when some OTHER measure is taken as a substitute. So, there must either be a way of getting around the seam, such as the four exceptions above, or there must be a good sturdy seam. How the problem arises Turning back to the slipping and sliding problem--how does it arise? The back of the neck is too loose Possibly the most common way to end up with a slipping sliding sweater to modify the directions for the back of the neck so that a collar or hood grows right out of the neck-back stitches, without any seam at all. In other words, what generally happens is that the pattern does call for the shoulders and neck back to be bound off, and then the collar or hood stitches to be picked up THROUGH the bound off stitches. Many knitters, faced with a pattern like that, come up with what seems a clever short cut to avoid binding off, then picking up the exact same stitches. "I will simply avoid that seam," thinks the knitter "and simply keep knitting the collar or hood to grow right out of the neck-back stitches," and so goes their way rejoicing at the labor saved. The rejoicing stops, however, when the garment is put on and the neck back stretches and stretches, rather than remaining seated as it ought. Of course, sometimes the pattern itself is at fault for not specifying a bind off and pick up along the neck back, but you are now too clever to follow such instructions. Melissa has written in the comments, asking about garments worked from the top down. Starting these with a permanent cast on is something of a gamble, tension-wise. IMHO, the best way to start these garments is with a provisional waste yarn cast on (called COWYAK--cast on with waste yarn and knit). At the end, cast the garment OFF at the top edge. This allows you to adjust the tension (more than once, if needed) for the neck opening, before going on with the neck band, collar or hood. The neck hole is too big A boat collar (also called a slit-neck) is an example of a garment with a very large neck opening. These are lovely to show off the shoulder tops and collar bones of an Audrey Hepburn, but they can be the very devil to keep on straight, without having the garment slide off one shoulder or another. V-neck and scoop neck styles can suffer this also, especially when too many stitches are picked up around the neck opening, or when the neckband is not knit for enough rows (knit too shallow). The seam joining the shoulder tops is too soft Another common cause of slipping and sliding is when the knitter modifies the shoulder seams by succumbing to the temptation for pretty, and kitchener stitches (grafts) the shoulders tops together, rather than putting in a good sturdy seam. Kitchener stitch sure SEEMS like sewing--in fact, it is often done with a sewing needle. However, Kitchener stitching is actually KNITTING--the needle follows the path that a knitted row would take, and that is why it is so utterly invisible. Knitting is stretchy, and having knit fabric on the shoulder without a raglan seam or a yoke construction to take the weight results in a slipping slider that's hard to wear. Again, some patterns actually call for a grafted shoulder, but you are free to ignore such instructions and seam, instead. The garment construction is inherently slippy-slidy Now we come to a large category of knitting a slipping slider: when the construction of the garment is responsible for the problem. This category breaks down into (at least!!) five further subheads. Large sweater-coats When an entire sweater-coat is knit from heavy yarn, there is a real problem of keeping it seated at the neck and shoulders, regardless of any construction detail. The fact is, knitting stretches, even properly bound off and seamed knitting. In this case, we knitters must borrow from tailors, and use their techniques--there is a description of reinforcement with a ribbon, below. Drop shoulder sweaters Drop shoulder sweaters do HAVE shoulder seams, but no real shoulders. Stated otherwise, The "shoulder seams" are so long that they hang well off the shoulder. This, coupled with the bulk and weight of the sleeves themselves, drags the garment away from the wearer's neck on both sides. This is especially a problem when the garment is a cardigan, knit in heavy wool. Worn open, drop-shoulder cardigans tend to slide away. If combined with a soft neck back (collar knit right out of the neck back stitches, for example) the result can be nearly unwearable. Circle-knit garments This innovative garment construction technique is sort of like wearing a round tablecloth with arms inserted. The upside is a beautiful radiating pattern, often with a lovely circle motif centered on the wearer's back and lovely falls and folds of fabric cascading down the fronts. The downside is often no shoulder seam at all--the top edge of the tablecloth is flipped back for a collar, and the shoulder line is formed at the fold. This fold may prove to be very soft and yielding. Some patterns get around this by having the circle truncated at the shoulder line, and then a collar added afterwards, some have other work-arounds, but many of these circle-knit garments offer a pretty fair dose of the slipping-problem. Cuff-to-cuff garments Cuff-to-cuff garments are fun to knit and offer a truly organic method of getting vertical stripes in a hand knit garment without having to knit intarsia bobbin-work, or fair-isle color work. Yet, when a garment is knit cuff-to-cuff, there is nearly never a shoulder seam because the whole point of the garment is to knit it sideways, each row extending over the shoulder from one bottom edge to the other, then back again. The neck-back must be bound off--it is the fabric selvedge, shown in red below--so these garments aren't quite as loose as circle knit garments, yet nonetheless, cuff-to-cuff sweaters can offer a pretty high dose of slipping and sliding. Dolman (aka "batwing") sleeves Sometimes patterns are offered for garment with dolman sleeves, knit bottom-to-top, then grafted shut along the long sleeve-top seam and right along the shoulder too. Like the cuff-to-cuff, such a design usually offers at least some firmness along the shoulder line by having the back of the neck bound off, but can also suffer from sliding. Some solutions The simplest, most time-tested solution is either to create a sturdy seam at the shoulder PLUS bind off the neck back OR to knit a garment from the "exception" list such as yoked or raglan. Yet, this is no help if you've already knit a slipping slider, or if you simply adore a garment construction which inherently slips and slides. Slip stitch This is probably the easiest fix for an already-made sweater which wants to slip and slide off the shoulders. Run a line of non-stretching yarn across the top of the shoulders and the back of the neck. This is usually done with a crochet hook, applying the yarn in a slip stitch. Here is a TECHknitting post about crocheting for knitters, which includes information about how to work the slip stitch. TECHknitting blog has also covered slip stitching in the context of firming the stretchy edge of a garter stitch scarf, and the idea is identical here. Rather than traveling along the edge of the fabric, however, the slip stitch is worked across the back of the neck and the top of the shoulders. Below is an illustration showing a line of slip stitch worked across the interior of a knit fabric. There is nothing to stop you from running two or even more parallel lines of slip stitch if the garment requires--a large shawl collar rising directly out of a neck back, for example, or a circle knit garment with no other provision in the pattern for a shoulder seam. Slip stitch to tighten a loose neck back or a too-soft shoulder seam PS: the slip stitch trick works pretty well to tighten other loose parts too: sweater and mitten cuffs, loose and floppy bottom bands, hats too large and so on. Ribbon or fabric tape sewn into the shoulder seam Another traditional method, although now not much used, is to sew in a line of grosgrain ribbon or twill fabric tape along the shoulder seam. In a modern variation, the shoulder seam on garments made of commercially knit fabric is serged together with a narrow strip of fabric tape (sheer or twill) serged in along the seam also for a three-layer fabric sandwich. The ribbon/tape prevents stretching, helps distribute the stress and generally preserves the garment--we have quite old sweaters in our family which incorporate a ribbon and these have held up well over the years. Sewing grosgrain ribbon over a seam from the inside of the garment The stitch to use for sewing the ribbon or the tape along the shoulder top is the overcast stitch, worked in little tiny stitches all along both long edges of the ribbon, pushing the sewing needle through the plies (split the plies) of the yarn so that the stitches do not show on the outside. This is the method I would use to correct the droop and stretch of a garment previously grafted (rather than seamed) shut at the shoulder. This is also a good trick for a drop shoulder garment. A garment with a ribbon sewn along the shoulder seam is rock solid and will not slip. A large sweater-coat might even warrant the ribbon being sewn along the neck back too--and it might be wise to use a rather wide ribbon for this--perhaps as wide as 1 1/2 inches, or even more. A neck-back ribbon is located so it runs over the neck-bone (the large bone at the top of your spine / base of your neck) Making a too-large neck hole smaller by re-knitting the neck band If too many stitches were picked up around the neck opening, OR if the neck band was knit too high (too many rows/rounds) without sufficient decreases, the result is the same: A ruffling and loose neck band. This is tedious to fix, but hardly difficult: pull out (frog) the band and do it again, on fewer stitches or with more decreases. Another recipe for a too-large neck opening is when the neck band was knit too shallow (too few rows/rounds). The cure is easy: Take out the bind-off, and add a few more rows or rounds, remembering to add decreases when appropriate. This cure will surely work, regardless of the original size of the neck opening--you can work the neck band as high as needed: at the extreme, you can build the neck up into a mock turtleneck or even a full turtle neck--maybe not what you set out to make, but these neck styles are certainly not going let the garment slide around. Correcting a sliding boat collar (slit neck) For a slit neck which will not stay put, consider sewing in two little ribbons, one on each side of the neck. Alternatively, knit two short little straps and sew one in to the inside on either side of the neck. Where these ribbons or knit straps peek out at the shoulder, they will look like camisole straps. Either of these cures will surely cure "slide-itis" in your boat necks. A final point: seaming We'll end with a final point: just how DO you make sturdy non-stretching shoulder seams? IMHO, the three best ways are-- Slip stitch: first bind off each shoulder using the ordinary chain bind off, then slip stitch the shoulder seams shut from the inside (this is the same slip stitch as the "neat little edging," or the slip stitch illustrated above, only worked through both layers of fabric at the shoulder top). This information is also shown (illustrated through both layeres) in this post about crocheting for knitters. Back stitch: first bind off each shoulder using the ordinary chain bind off, then simply sew the shoulder seam shut from the inside using the back stitch and working through both layers of fabric at the shoulder top. Use a dull-pointed needle and work between the stitches, not through the plies. Use the three-needle bind off: for this trick, hold the live stitches for each shoulder together on their two needles, the front fabric face of each piece touching, then use a third needle to bind off through two stitches (one from the front needle, one from the back needle) at the same time. For further information, go to the illustrated post about three needle bind off. Good knitting--TK * * * This is fifth in a series on garment correction. The others in this series are: Part 1: My sweater is too wide Part 2: My sweater is too long, my sweater is too short Part 3:My sweater is too tight under the arms/at the bust/chest--the magic of gussets Part 4: My hat is too loose

Neat Edges in Knitting Learn 5 easy ways to knit nice and neat edges on your projects. Useful for scarves, wash clothes, blankets and more!

Knitting entrelac sounds and looks complicated. But, once you learn the basics, it's really quite simple! With a little practice, you can whip up complex-looking projects with ease, especially with ombré yarns or different colors!

Everyone's knitting style is a little different. Whether it's tension, your personal knitting gauge, or the way you wrap your yarn around your fingers. But when it comes to which hand you hold your yarn in, the knitting world is pretty divided. There are five basic knitting styles based on the way the yarn is held and wrapped around the working needle. The names of these styles often are associated with nationalities, like English knitting or Irish Cottage style, but the style you prefer has very little to do with where you grew up, or even where you learned to knit. There are people in England and the United States who do not knit English (also called American) style, and there are plenty of people in continental Europe who would scoff at the idea of holding their yarn in their non-dominant hand, as is done in continental knitting. Likewise, Portuguese knitting is done all over the world, but the name "Portuguese" is just the name that stuck. Because of this, you will see that almost every single one of these knitting styles has two or more alternate names. For more great projects like this, subscribe to our free email newsletter!

Tech editing and test knitting often get used interchangeably. They fill different purposes, though, and both are important.

Cold day? Just print out a sweater!

Hiya Hiya Knitting Needles are the Cadillac of knitting. This interchangeable circular set is all you need for knitting projects with worsted to bulky yarn.

Knitting increases can be fiddly. Every increase has its own benefits and detriments, and picking the right one can make a big difference.

In this post I present an easy way to remembering M1R and M1L increases. The trick is to always pick up the strand from back to front with the needle that points in the direction you want the increase to lean into. I also propose handedness-neutral terms for M1 increases.

Learn some fascinating facts about your favorite craft and impress your friends with Angie's round up of knitting facts and trivia.

What is the yarn weight when knitting with yarn held double or with two strands of yarn held together? This tutorial walks you through the math.

Let’s talk about another great stretchy cast on that you should know: the knitted cast on. As you learn to knit, you’ll need to know different types of

In With The Old AND With The New: Harnessing AI to Brainstorm Product Ideas for Your Crochet or Knitting Etsy ShopDear yarnie friends with entrepreneurial spirits, I'm sure you've heard some buzz lately about Artificial Intelligence (AI) and, specifically, ChatGPT. Maybe you thought it was useful for programmers or content writers but not for your ...

Even novice knitters can handle the garter stitch—one of the simplest to master. And these easy projects are so charming and versatile that they'll gratify beginners and satisfy experienced knitters alike. Choose from 50 items, including hats, pullovers, cowls, home goods, a layette, blankets, and more. Each pretty gift uses the popular and affordable Deluxe Worsted, made of 100% wool and with a palette of more than 200 colors, from Universal Yarn.

Wanting to decrease your tech editing costs but still publish high quality knitting patterns? The key is to pre-edit your pattern yourself before you send the pattern to your tech editor. This will help reduce your tech editor's workload by catching many of the smaller mistakes and reduce the amount of back-and-forth communication required for finalizing your pattern. So what are the most important things to check in your knitting pattern before sending it to your tech editor? What Mistakes Do Y

Before you begin short row knitting, read this exclusive, free resource on knitting short rows—one knitting technique every successful knitter should know! You'll enjoy step-by-step instructions, expert tips on four different methods, and fun knitting projects that use short-row knitting methods!

February 25, 2021 - When you hire a tech editor, what can you expect? In this post, you'll learn the workflow steps from submission to final edit.

This tutorial is well overdue – you’ve been asking about the way I knit for quite some time now, but there was always some other exciting technique that I wanted to share with you, so I kept postponing this tutorial. The truth is because I’ve been using Continental knitting style for years, it seemed trivial, […]

Left-leaning decreases are a little more complicated than the k2tog, but I did the leg work for you to pick the prettiest, and found a hack to make them look even better.

A lot of knitters embark on their first sweater with some fear related to knitting the right size that will actually fit them and look good on their bodies. Knitting Daily is helping to take some o…