Moving in day has arrived and I must admit to feeling a little nervous and not a little daunted by the task ahead of me. First things first I installed my mini fridge soon to be filled with reviving cordials, well diet coke. I have bought a variety of drawer inserts from Ikea. Not sure how many I will use but I wanted a them on hand. Any I don't use I can take back. I have a lot of my miniatures stashed away in plastic Fairy boxes by project. These are all pieces for my Potage's Cauldron Shop some of which I had forgotten I even had so I have transferred them into this craft storage box so I can see what I have. Storing them by project has often meant craft supplies sort of disappear into drawers and I end up buying the same items because I can't find what I need. So, I am going to sort through everything bit by bit and try and make everything much more accessible and not leave tools and the such like along with cauldrons for example. I now seem to have two wire strippers both of which were tucked away rather than sitting where they should be with my lighting supplies. Now all my Cauldron shop items can be easily seen and readily accessible. I also discovered my very small collection of Stokseyware, I am sure I have some more somewhere, that I intend to display in a shop box by Jill Bennett I have decided to place some of my miniatures in a sort of dummy show rather than hiding them away again now I have a bit more room. I might have to re-think this as I go along as I may be being a little profligate with the additional space my work shop is giving me but this is my plan. So, in line with this I am keeping out one of the market stalls I bought in Holland and I have placed some of the gingerbread minis I have been able to uncover. I am beginning to wonder how many minis I may have inadvertently mis-laid or lost altogether in the general chaos of my storage. I have pieces by the wonderful Lin Cummings and Paris Miniatures..... now I need to find the others. Displaying them like this will also make me keep an eye on what I actually have and stop me buying too much stuff!! Then I discovered these two pieces by one of my favourite miniaturists Lory. I love her whimsical pieces as well as all her cheeky vegetables and beautiful teapots. These two pieces will go in my glass cabinet they are too pretty to be stashed away again. Well a few boxes were sorted and unpacked to day but by the time I had finished playing, er I mean sorting, I realised I am going to have to be a little more organised with my organisation if you see what I mean. I need to unpack in a more orderly way otherwise I am going to run out of room fast because I am using up drawers willy nilly at the moment. Tomorrow I am going to sort through all my craft paper, then fabrics, then glues and so on. After all I am only going to do this once......
I’ve been meaning for a while to post this how-to on fairly easy custom windows. The plans for The Big House called for window openings 3×5. Not knowing that the standard had already …
Conforme prometido, vou mostrar como fazer janelas simples. Você pode colocar dobradiças para que abram e fechem ou pode colar na moldura (batente), de modo que fiquem sempre na mesma posição. Vou ensinar com dobradiça. Se não quiser, é só colar direto na abertura, já com a moldura. As I promised, I'm showing now how to make simple windows. You can hinge them so that they can open & close or you can glue them to the frame (casement) and have them fixed in the same position. I'll show you how I made the hinges. If you don't want them, just skip those steps. AVISOS: 1) existem outras formas mais "certinhas" de se fazer janelas e dobradiças em miniatura. Vou inclusive passar alguns links no final 2) ao testar o tamanho das madeiras temi que fosse ficar muito grande, sem espaço para abrir e fechar. Então diminui o tamanho das madeirinhas, mas diminui demais. Não cometa o mesmo erro que eu! DISCLAIMER: 1) there are other "purist" ways to make windows and hinges in miniature. I'll even place some links in the end 2) when I was dry fitting the wood parts I had for the original kit, I thought they would bee too snug and they wouldn't close/open. So I shortened them, but I overdid that. Do not make the same mistake! Vamos lá! Let's do it! Você vai precisar de: * uma folha de acetato transparente. Compre nas melhores papelarias ou em loja de material para artesanato. Ou reaproveite embalagens plásticas (a parte reta), faço muito isso. * estilete * tesoura (opcional) * pinça * régua * cola branca * cola tipo super-bonder (gel) * madeira bem fina, 1mm, balsa, cedrinho, etc, cortada em tiras de 6mm e de 3mm. Ou use um papel mais grosso mesmo, pintado ou já colorido. * madeira mais grossa, 5mm, para a moldura da janela. * 5 cm arame dourado. Eu usei um resto de um pino para fazer bijuteria que tinha tirado a parte da cabeça. Sempre guardo esses "restos" * quatro contas pequenas (2mm) * folha de colorplus ou outro papel colorido no mesmo tom da madeira que usar, ou pinte as tiras do papel. * folha de tyvek. Eu ganhei de um amigo americano um envelope que o correio de lá fornece. Tenho material para muitas dobradiças. Aqui no Brasil você encontra esse material em etiquetas de roupas, toalhas, etc. É resistente, forte, e, ao mesmo tempo, muito fino. You are going to need: * an acetate (transparent plastic, or plexiglas) sheet. You can buy them from miniature suppliers, stationary stores or craft stores. Or you can repurpose those that come with other stuff you buy, like scissors, etc. I do that often. * craft or x-acto knife * scissors (optional) * tweezers * ruler * tacky glue * super glue (gel) * 1/4" and 1/8" strips of 1/16" thick wood. Or use cardboard/cardstock paper, either pre-colored or painted as wood. * 3/16" thick wood, for the window frame inside opening on wall. * 1 inch of golden wire. I used some leftover scraps of earring pins I had. In a previous project I only needed the flat head, and I kept the remaining part. Useful! :) * 4 small seed beads (~1/8") * color cardstock or any other colored paper in a similar shade as the wood used, or painted paper. * tyvek sheet. I once got from a friend in the US a USPS Priority envelope. It's made of tyvek. One envelope goes a looooong way! Como fazer: How-to: 1) Corte um pedaço de acetato um pouco maior que o espaço da janela. Instale a moldura (batente), cortando tiras da madeira de 5mm de espessura um pouco mais largas do que a largura da "parede". A largura e o comprimento exatos vão depender da abertura para a janela que você tiver ai! Pinte na cor desejada e cole no lugar deste modo: 1) Cut a piece of the acetate sheet a little larger than the open space you have for the window. Install the frame (casement) on the wall by cutting strips from the 1/4" thick wood, larger than the wall thickness. The exact width and length will depend on your window opening and the wall thickness. Paint/stain them as desired and glue them in place like this: 2) Depois que a cola secar, use a abertura como referência e corte o acetato na medida exata da abertura. 2) After the glue dries, use that open space as reference and cut the acetate to fit inside it. 3) Corte o acetato ao meio, na vertical, para ter os dois lados da janela 3) Cut the acetate piece in half, vertically, so that you'll have both sides of the window 4) Corte a madeira fina em tiras de 4 ou 5 mm de largura. Corte 4 no mesmo tamanho da largura de cada tira de acetato, e de 4 no comprimento para completar as laterais. Você vai colar essas tiras no acetato assim (tiras em marrom): 4) Cut the thin wood strips (1/4" wide x 1/16" thick). You'll need 4 the same lenght as the width of each half of the acetate. Than 4 with the same lenght as the inside space between them. You'll glue them like this. 5) Use cola branca ou silicone líquido da Merlatto e cole as tiras em cada folha de acetato, removendo o excesso de cola com um palito. Deixe secar bem. 5) use the tacky glue and glue each strip of wood on the acetate , removing any excess glue with a toothpick. Let them dry well. 6) Como eu já tinha avisado, eu diminui demais os pedaços de madeira que usei. Por pura preguiça, não quis cortar mais, então ficou menor que o acetato. Removi o excesso usando a própria madeira como guia e cortando com estilete. 6) As I mentioned before, I shortened the wood strips too much. I was too lazy to cut everything again, so the final frame was smaller than the acetate piece. I removed the excess using the wood frame as guide and a craft knife. 7) Quando estiver seco, aplique cola no acetato do outro lado e use as tiras de papel, que deve ter o mesmo tom da madeira. Você pode usar madeira deste lado também. Como eu não tinha madeira no mesmo tom do usado no kit original, e só veio madeira para um lado da janela, eu usei papel no kit original para não deixar o lado externo da janela só no acetato. Por coerência, fiz a mesma coisa na minha janela: madeira de um lado e papel do outro. Você pode usar papel/cartolina, madeira, etc nos dois lados, se preferir. Faça cada lado por vez, aproveitando a própria moldura formada para corter as tiras no tamanho certo: (corte só as travas superior e inferior, não cubra uma das laterais ainda!!!) 7) When the glue is completely dry, apply some glue on the acetate behind the wood frame on the other side and use the color(ed) paper strips (same width as the wood). You can use wood on this side as well. As the original kit only supplies wood for one side and I didn't have any that would match, I used paper for the kit and repeated the process here to keep coherence. You can use wood, cardboard, matboard, bristol board, cardstock, etc to make the frame. Your choice. For the back, you can use the window itself as reference to cut the strips the correct size: glue the strip aligned to one end then use the wood frame as reference to cut the strip correctly. Leave one side uncovered for now!!! 8) corte 4 quadradinhos de 1cm do Tyvek. Prenda na superfície de pintura com dupla-face e pinte de dourado: 8) Cut 4 x 1/4" squares from the Tyvek envelope. Stick them to the painting surface with repositionable glue or double-sided tape and paint them golden: 9) Posicione os dois lados da janela juntos e cole as dobradiças. 9) Align both window sides and glue the 'hinges' in place. 10) Cubra com a tira de papel que falta: 10) Cover that side with the remaining strip of paper: 11) Posicione as tiras finas de madeira para formar os painéis da janela. Não cole ainda, é só para espaçar e marcar lugar. 11) Position the thin (1/8") strips of wood in place so as to form the window 'panes'. Don't glue them in place yet. Just make sure they fit in. 12) Cole primeiro as tiras horizontais, usando as verticais como marcador. Deixe secar bem a cola antes de colar as outras tiras: 12) Now glue the horizontal strips first, using the vertical ones as spacer. Let the glue dry completely before you glue the other ones: 13) Se preferir, corte uma longa tira vertical e 6 tiras menores para as horizontais. Foi assim que fiz no verso, com o papel: 13) If you prefer, just cut a long vertical strip and 6 smaller ones for the horizontal dividers. That's how I made it on the back side, using paper strips: 14) Puxadores da janela: Para cada um você vai precisar de duas contas na cor escolhida e dois pedaços de 1,8cm de arame dourado: 14) Window pulls: For each pull you'll need two seed beads in the color of your choice and two pieces of 5/8" long golden wire: 15) Usando um pedaço de madeira, lateral de borracha, ou qualquer material de bordas retas e 7mm de lado que tiver por perto, dobre os arames formando as alças: 15) Using some strip of wood, the side of an eraser, or any other straight material you have avaliable with a width of 5/16", and use it to bend the wires to form the handles: 16) Prenda as contas em uma superfície usando um dupla-face, use a alça de metal já dobrada como referência para o espaçamento entre as contas: 16) Stick the beads to the painting surface using double-faced tape, and use the handle you just made as reference as to how far apart you should place them: 17) Aplique um pouco de cola branca dentro de cada conta e insira a alça de arame. Deixe secar bem. 17) Apply a little bit of glue inside each bead and insert the wire handle. Let it dry completely. Antes de instalar a janela no lugar, faça um "teste a seco". Se estiver grande e com dificuldade de abrir-fechar (manualmente), lixe as laterais onde estiver "pegando" até ficar certo. Before you install the window in place, dry fit them. If the sides are too large and it's hard to open/close them manually, sand the sides until it's ok. 18) Ponha um pingo de super-cola e um de cola branca em um pedaço de papel (descartável). Pegue cada puxador com uma pinça, passe cada conta na cola branca, remova o excesso, passe na super-cola, remova o excesso. E cole no devido lugar na janela. 18) Place a tiny puddle of super glue and one of tacky glue on a spare piece of paper. Hold each pull with tweezers, and touch each bead first on the tacky glue and then on the super glue, removing the excess on the paper right after. Then glue them in place. 19) Mantendo as dobradiças já dobradas no lugar, use um palito para aplicar cola do mesmo jeito: um pinguinho de cola branca e um pinguinho de super-cola em cada dobradiça. Posicione no lugar e segure firme por alguns instantes. Atenção: evite usar cola demais para não colar tudo que assim a dobradiça não funcionará, e também tem que ser rápido senão a cola seca antes da hora e ter a mão firme, senão espalha cola por toda a moldura, menos onde deve! 19) Keeping the hinges already folded in place, use the tip of a toothpick to apply both glues on them: a tiny little bit of tacky then a tiny little bit of super glue on both hinges. Position the window in place and hold firmly for a few seconds. Important: make sure you don't apply too much glue. That might lead to having glue in the wrong places and your hinges won't work, or the whole window will be stuck to one position (glued down)! 20) Pronto! Aí está sua janela que abre e fecha! Se não quiser usar a dobradiça, é só colar cada lado da janela no lugar, deixando meio entreaberto. 20) Voilá! Now you have a window that opens and closes! If you don't want to use the hinge, just glue each side of the window in place, leaving it slightly opened. Outros tutoriais na internet: Other tutorials on the web: Como fazer janelas: How to make windows: http://abt.cm/XQfWHh Como fazer dobradiças de metal: How to make metal hinges: http://abt.cm/eceD8X -
Decorate your DIY dollhouse with these 20 dollhouse windows printable designs in 1:6 and 1:12 scale. Free download
Hoy, para variar, puedo mostrar algún trabajo reciente: el reto que hemos hecho en el grupo al que pertenezco. Esta vez se trataba de hacer una fachada, aunque la verdad es que lo mío ha sido un muestrario de balcones y ventanas, todos sobre una base de porexpán de 30x20 cm. Decidí hacerlo así para probar distintas texturas y estilos. La mayoría están copiadas de imágenes de internet. Empecé con un balcón modernista, este inventado en su totalidad, aunque inspirado en los que se pueden ver por el Ensanche de Barcelona. Una ventana con la fachada de "piedra y ladrillo". Este balcón tiene una balustrada muy poco elegante, pero no conseguí hacer un molde mejor. Una ventana románica, toda de cartón. Un balcón copia de la casa en el pueblo de una de mis tías. Aquí., como se trataba de probar cosas, he hecho las contraventanas y la jardinera con bandejas de corcho blanco, un material que puede dar bastante juego. Y este último, está hecho todo con cartón o papel.
Thank you for supporting small businesses! Windows DIY Set (2pc) Scales 1:12 or 1:24 Choose between MDF or Wood Miniature windows will be a great addition to your mini homes! It's the little details that count and these windows would be a great addition. Best of all is their versatility, being able to fit a multitude of themes. This window has a rounded top with fun divisions that would look lovely in many aesthetics and home styles. Each set comes with two windows in the scale and material picked. You get the choice of either MDF or wood. MDF will give a smoother look whilst the wood can be stained! ♥If you're interested in different sizing/scale, private message us for a custom order. ♥ ITEM DETAILS: -1:12 scale (2pc) 12.5cmx7.5cm (5x3 inches) -1:24 scale (2pc) 5cmx7.5cm (1.97x2.95inches) -not painted ♥ All of this is handmade using quality materials (no molds) and ready to be shipped to complete your decorative dreams. Not a toy. Not intended for small children. For decorative purposes only. ♥ Before purchasing please make sure that the scale/measurement is correct for your needs. If you have any questions or concerns please message us. Check out our other shops! https://www.etsy.com/shop/ScaledRealm?ref=shop_sugg Follow us on Instagram and Facebook at Scaled_Realm and Scaled_Realm_Minis Made in the USA
I’ve been meaning for a while to post this how-to on fairly easy custom windows. The plans for The Big House called for window openings 3×5. Not knowing that the standard had already …
Hoy, para variar, puedo mostrar algún trabajo reciente: el reto que hemos hecho en el grupo al que pertenezco. Esta vez se trataba de hacer una fachada, aunque la verdad es que lo mío ha sido un muestrario de balcones y ventanas, todos sobre una base de porexpán de 30x20 cm. Decidí hacerlo así para probar distintas texturas y estilos. La mayoría están copiadas de imágenes de internet. Empecé con un balcón modernista, este inventado en su totalidad, aunque inspirado en los que se pueden ver por el Ensanche de Barcelona. Una ventana con la fachada de "piedra y ladrillo". Este balcón tiene una balustrada muy poco elegante, pero no conseguí hacer un molde mejor. Una ventana románica, toda de cartón. Un balcón copia de la casa en el pueblo de una de mis tías. Aquí., como se trataba de probar cosas, he hecho las contraventanas y la jardinera con bandejas de corcho blanco, un material que puede dar bastante juego. Y este último, está hecho todo con cartón o papel.
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I guys, here is the start of second Minimondi contest... A little WIP for windows and doors. These will be cloned! New Update... the end is so far away!
I’ve been meaning for a while to post this how-to on fairly easy custom windows. The plans for The Big House called for window openings 3×5. Not knowing that the standard had already …
We’re so excited to show off this little cutie that we designed and are producing in our home. More than a room box, yet small enough to find a place in any room, the Mini Modern Farmhouse is available in three options.
Conforme prometido, vou mostrar como fazer janelas simples. Você pode colocar dobradiças para que abram e fechem ou pode colar na moldura (batente), de modo que fiquem sempre na mesma posição. Vou ensinar com dobradiça. Se não quiser, é só colar direto na abertura, já com a moldura. As I promised, I'm showing now how to make simple windows. You can hinge them so that they can open & close or you can glue them to the frame (casement) and have them fixed in the same position. I'll show you how I made the hinges. If you don't want them, just skip those steps. AVISOS: 1) existem outras formas mais "certinhas" de se fazer janelas e dobradiças em miniatura. Vou inclusive passar alguns links no final 2) ao testar o tamanho das madeiras temi que fosse ficar muito grande, sem espaço para abrir e fechar. Então diminui o tamanho das madeirinhas, mas diminui demais. Não cometa o mesmo erro que eu! DISCLAIMER: 1) there are other "purist" ways to make windows and hinges in miniature. I'll even place some links in the end 2) when I was dry fitting the wood parts I had for the original kit, I thought they would bee too snug and they wouldn't close/open. So I shortened them, but I overdid that. Do not make the same mistake! Vamos lá! Let's do it! Você vai precisar de: * uma folha de acetato transparente. Compre nas melhores papelarias ou em loja de material para artesanato. Ou reaproveite embalagens plásticas (a parte reta), faço muito isso. * estilete * tesoura (opcional) * pinça * régua * cola branca * cola tipo super-bonder (gel) * madeira bem fina, 1mm, balsa, cedrinho, etc, cortada em tiras de 6mm e de 3mm. Ou use um papel mais grosso mesmo, pintado ou já colorido. * madeira mais grossa, 5mm, para a moldura da janela. * 5 cm arame dourado. Eu usei um resto de um pino para fazer bijuteria que tinha tirado a parte da cabeça. Sempre guardo esses "restos" * quatro contas pequenas (2mm) * folha de colorplus ou outro papel colorido no mesmo tom da madeira que usar, ou pinte as tiras do papel. * folha de tyvek. Eu ganhei de um amigo americano um envelope que o correio de lá fornece. Tenho material para muitas dobradiças. Aqui no Brasil você encontra esse material em etiquetas de roupas, toalhas, etc. É resistente, forte, e, ao mesmo tempo, muito fino. You are going to need: * an acetate (transparent plastic, or plexiglas) sheet. You can buy them from miniature suppliers, stationary stores or craft stores. Or you can repurpose those that come with other stuff you buy, like scissors, etc. I do that often. * craft or x-acto knife * scissors (optional) * tweezers * ruler * tacky glue * super glue (gel) * 1/4" and 1/8" strips of 1/16" thick wood. Or use cardboard/cardstock paper, either pre-colored or painted as wood. * 3/16" thick wood, for the window frame inside opening on wall. * 1 inch of golden wire. I used some leftover scraps of earring pins I had. In a previous project I only needed the flat head, and I kept the remaining part. Useful! :) * 4 small seed beads (~1/8") * color cardstock or any other colored paper in a similar shade as the wood used, or painted paper. * tyvek sheet. I once got from a friend in the US a USPS Priority envelope. It's made of tyvek. One envelope goes a looooong way! Como fazer: How-to: 1) Corte um pedaço de acetato um pouco maior que o espaço da janela. Instale a moldura (batente), cortando tiras da madeira de 5mm de espessura um pouco mais largas do que a largura da "parede". A largura e o comprimento exatos vão depender da abertura para a janela que você tiver ai! Pinte na cor desejada e cole no lugar deste modo: 1) Cut a piece of the acetate sheet a little larger than the open space you have for the window. Install the frame (casement) on the wall by cutting strips from the 1/4" thick wood, larger than the wall thickness. The exact width and length will depend on your window opening and the wall thickness. Paint/stain them as desired and glue them in place like this: 2) Depois que a cola secar, use a abertura como referência e corte o acetato na medida exata da abertura. 2) After the glue dries, use that open space as reference and cut the acetate to fit inside it. 3) Corte o acetato ao meio, na vertical, para ter os dois lados da janela 3) Cut the acetate piece in half, vertically, so that you'll have both sides of the window 4) Corte a madeira fina em tiras de 4 ou 5 mm de largura. Corte 4 no mesmo tamanho da largura de cada tira de acetato, e de 4 no comprimento para completar as laterais. Você vai colar essas tiras no acetato assim (tiras em marrom): 4) Cut the thin wood strips (1/4" wide x 1/16" thick). You'll need 4 the same lenght as the width of each half of the acetate. Than 4 with the same lenght as the inside space between them. You'll glue them like this. 5) Use cola branca ou silicone líquido da Merlatto e cole as tiras em cada folha de acetato, removendo o excesso de cola com um palito. Deixe secar bem. 5) use the tacky glue and glue each strip of wood on the acetate , removing any excess glue with a toothpick. Let them dry well. 6) Como eu já tinha avisado, eu diminui demais os pedaços de madeira que usei. Por pura preguiça, não quis cortar mais, então ficou menor que o acetato. Removi o excesso usando a própria madeira como guia e cortando com estilete. 6) As I mentioned before, I shortened the wood strips too much. I was too lazy to cut everything again, so the final frame was smaller than the acetate piece. I removed the excess using the wood frame as guide and a craft knife. 7) Quando estiver seco, aplique cola no acetato do outro lado e use as tiras de papel, que deve ter o mesmo tom da madeira. Você pode usar madeira deste lado também. Como eu não tinha madeira no mesmo tom do usado no kit original, e só veio madeira para um lado da janela, eu usei papel no kit original para não deixar o lado externo da janela só no acetato. Por coerência, fiz a mesma coisa na minha janela: madeira de um lado e papel do outro. Você pode usar papel/cartolina, madeira, etc nos dois lados, se preferir. Faça cada lado por vez, aproveitando a própria moldura formada para corter as tiras no tamanho certo: (corte só as travas superior e inferior, não cubra uma das laterais ainda!!!) 7) When the glue is completely dry, apply some glue on the acetate behind the wood frame on the other side and use the color(ed) paper strips (same width as the wood). You can use wood on this side as well. As the original kit only supplies wood for one side and I didn't have any that would match, I used paper for the kit and repeated the process here to keep coherence. You can use wood, cardboard, matboard, bristol board, cardstock, etc to make the frame. Your choice. For the back, you can use the window itself as reference to cut the strips the correct size: glue the strip aligned to one end then use the wood frame as reference to cut the strip correctly. Leave one side uncovered for now!!! 8) corte 4 quadradinhos de 1cm do Tyvek. Prenda na superfície de pintura com dupla-face e pinte de dourado: 8) Cut 4 x 1/4" squares from the Tyvek envelope. Stick them to the painting surface with repositionable glue or double-sided tape and paint them golden: 9) Posicione os dois lados da janela juntos e cole as dobradiças. 9) Align both window sides and glue the 'hinges' in place. 10) Cubra com a tira de papel que falta: 10) Cover that side with the remaining strip of paper: 11) Posicione as tiras finas de madeira para formar os painéis da janela. Não cole ainda, é só para espaçar e marcar lugar. 11) Position the thin (1/8") strips of wood in place so as to form the window 'panes'. Don't glue them in place yet. Just make sure they fit in. 12) Cole primeiro as tiras horizontais, usando as verticais como marcador. Deixe secar bem a cola antes de colar as outras tiras: 12) Now glue the horizontal strips first, using the vertical ones as spacer. Let the glue dry completely before you glue the other ones: 13) Se preferir, corte uma longa tira vertical e 6 tiras menores para as horizontais. Foi assim que fiz no verso, com o papel: 13) If you prefer, just cut a long vertical strip and 6 smaller ones for the horizontal dividers. That's how I made it on the back side, using paper strips: 14) Puxadores da janela: Para cada um você vai precisar de duas contas na cor escolhida e dois pedaços de 1,8cm de arame dourado: 14) Window pulls: For each pull you'll need two seed beads in the color of your choice and two pieces of 5/8" long golden wire: 15) Usando um pedaço de madeira, lateral de borracha, ou qualquer material de bordas retas e 7mm de lado que tiver por perto, dobre os arames formando as alças: 15) Using some strip of wood, the side of an eraser, or any other straight material you have avaliable with a width of 5/16", and use it to bend the wires to form the handles: 16) Prenda as contas em uma superfície usando um dupla-face, use a alça de metal já dobrada como referência para o espaçamento entre as contas: 16) Stick the beads to the painting surface using double-faced tape, and use the handle you just made as reference as to how far apart you should place them: 17) Aplique um pouco de cola branca dentro de cada conta e insira a alça de arame. Deixe secar bem. 17) Apply a little bit of glue inside each bead and insert the wire handle. Let it dry completely. Antes de instalar a janela no lugar, faça um "teste a seco". Se estiver grande e com dificuldade de abrir-fechar (manualmente), lixe as laterais onde estiver "pegando" até ficar certo. Before you install the window in place, dry fit them. If the sides are too large and it's hard to open/close them manually, sand the sides until it's ok. 18) Ponha um pingo de super-cola e um de cola branca em um pedaço de papel (descartável). Pegue cada puxador com uma pinça, passe cada conta na cola branca, remova o excesso, passe na super-cola, remova o excesso. E cole no devido lugar na janela. 18) Place a tiny puddle of super glue and one of tacky glue on a spare piece of paper. Hold each pull with tweezers, and touch each bead first on the tacky glue and then on the super glue, removing the excess on the paper right after. Then glue them in place. 19) Mantendo as dobradiças já dobradas no lugar, use um palito para aplicar cola do mesmo jeito: um pinguinho de cola branca e um pinguinho de super-cola em cada dobradiça. Posicione no lugar e segure firme por alguns instantes. Atenção: evite usar cola demais para não colar tudo que assim a dobradiça não funcionará, e também tem que ser rápido senão a cola seca antes da hora e ter a mão firme, senão espalha cola por toda a moldura, menos onde deve! 19) Keeping the hinges already folded in place, use the tip of a toothpick to apply both glues on them: a tiny little bit of tacky then a tiny little bit of super glue on both hinges. Position the window in place and hold firmly for a few seconds. Important: make sure you don't apply too much glue. That might lead to having glue in the wrong places and your hinges won't work, or the whole window will be stuck to one position (glued down)! 20) Pronto! Aí está sua janela que abre e fecha! Se não quiser usar a dobradiça, é só colar cada lado da janela no lugar, deixando meio entreaberto. 20) Voilá! Now you have a window that opens and closes! If you don't want to use the hinge, just glue each side of the window in place, leaving it slightly opened. Outros tutoriais na internet: Other tutorials on the web: Como fazer janelas: How to make windows: http://abt.cm/XQfWHh Como fazer dobradiças de metal: How to make metal hinges: http://abt.cm/eceD8X -
Det kribler i fingrene etter å så og plante ute, men foreløpig er det litt tidlig for det her på Østlandet. Det er fremdeles netter med minusgrader og sarte tomatplanter og erteblomster bukker fort under for nattefrosten. Et lite drivskap er fint å ha for å venne plantene til livet utendørs. Når det i tillegg kan bygges av gjenbruksmaterialer fra tidligere prosjekter er det midt i blinken! _____________________________________________________________________________ I can`t wait to plant and sow
Tal vez debería llamarse "cositas" puesto que este blog va a tratar sobre miniaturas.
Making doors I drew my design on mat board. I used left over picture mats. I cut the inside bevel out and put it on the doo...
Yaratıcılığın ve hayalgücünün ifadesi
This is the second part of a series covering the five principal areas of work involved in the creation of realistic models .. main construction, fine construction, modelling & shaping, creating…
6-PACK THIS IS FOR 6 PIECES OF THE STYLE YOU SELECT FROM THE PULL DOWN MENU. SORRY WE CANNOT MIX & MATCH STYLES AT THIS DISCOUNTED PRICE Please select the STYLE # from the SECOND PICTURE and then SELECT THE SIZE. You are purchasing SIX PIECES PER EACH ORDER 3mm (1/8") Thick Baltic Birch Unfinished Wood Windows for all of your craft projects! Ready to Paint or Stain If you need a different size or quantity please let us know and we will be glad to work with you. MADE RIGHT HERE IN TEXAS Each is made to order They are laser cut and lightly sanded These items are not Toys. These items may contain small parts that can become dislodged if the items are played with. Please do not allow a small child to play with these items.
Create your own mini greenhouse.
