If you’re short like me chances are you’ve missed out on buying that great fitting pair of pants because they’re just too long. Did you know taking up a pair of pants if fairly easy to do, with or without a sewing machine?! I’ve made a few video tutorials over the last couple of years […]
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I am 5'2" necessitating LOTS of hemming and shortening of pants, skirts, and dresses. I just can't find anything the right length. If you've ever priced the cost of professional seamstresses (and add in the time it takes to get your clothing back), it costs a fortune to have everything you buy hemmed. I learned years ago how to hem pants and skirts, but jeans always gave me grief. A couple of years ago my older sister showed me a pair of her jeans that she had hemmed professionally, and it was easy to see how it was done. The difference is that jeans typically have a worn edge. The hem is decorative, so cutting that edge off to shorten them takes away part of the character you're paying for. So I developed a tutorial for hemming jeans the way professional would. Hope you find this helpful! What you'll need: sewing machine dark thread to match the jeans iron straight pins measuring tape scissors The Process: You'll need to measure the desired length of the jeans. The easiest way I've found to do this is to have the person stand on a chair and scoot back so the heel of their shoes is even with the edge of the chair. It might be helpful to note that you definitely need to have them wear the shoes they'd typically wear with the jeans. I prefer to hem the jeans to the ground. So, using a safety pin or water-soluble marking pen, mark the desired length (in my case, where the shoe ends and the chair begins). Next, measure the amount you'll need to shorten them from the edge of the current hem to the mark you've made. In the jeans in this tutorial, they needed to be shortened 2 1/2 inches. Lay the jeans flat on a hard surface, and measure up the desired length (2 1/2 inches here) from the stitching on the current hem. Since the current hem will remain in place, that half inch or so will also remain. So, if you measure from the edge of your jeans, they'll still be a half an inch too long after hemming. Make sense? Now place a straight pin to mark. Next you'll fold the edge of your jeans up into a cuff matching the current stitching to just above the pin like this. Pin in place. To check your accuracy, divide your total amount needed to shorten (2 1/2 inches for me) by 2 (equalling 1 1/4 inches in my case). Measure from the fold to just under the current stitching making sure this amount is half of the amount you need to take it in. Next, keeping this length consistent, pin all the way around the cuff. Measure as you go to make sure you're still consistent. Repeat these steps on the second leg. When both legs are securely pinned, move the pants to your sewing machine. Carefully stitch in the ditch just along the fold of the current hem. Make sure to get as close to this fold as possible being careful not to sew on top of it or across the current stitching. Stitch all the way around backstitching where you stop and start. Repeat this step for the other leg. Remove your jeans from the machine, and turn the cuff up to the inside of the leg like this. With a steaming hot iron, press this new seam from the inside all the way around each leg. Now turn the pants inside-out revealing the new cuff on the inside of the leg. Using super sharp scissors, cut the cuff about a quarter inch from your stitching. Turn the jeans right-side-out, and iron again if necessary to reveal your finished hem. Easy, and your seam is almost invisible! As always, please feel free to comment with questions, and I'll do my best to answer.
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Greetings, Feeling Stitchy readers! I'm excited to bring you embroidery-related tutorials on Thimblenest Thursdays! I'm sure spouses, children, and pets could testify that those of us who dabble in embroidery are prone to misplace needles from time to time. Having been guilty of that myself, I started getting a little worried recently when I also began misplacing my embroidery scissors. After finding myself sitting on them one too many times, I devised a way to keep them in a safer, more visible place on my person at all times--a wrist cuff! Calculating Your Fabric/Notion Measurements As you read through the following tutorial, please keep in mind that this cuff is based on my scissor and wrist/arm measurements. Obviously everyone has different sized arms and scissors, so you may need to adjust your fabric dimensions accordingly. For reference, my scissors are 1 5/8" x 3 5/8" (4 cm x 9 cm)--if your scissors are around that size, the pocket should probably work. Most important is the wrist/forearm measurement; at the wrist, my arm circumference measured 6" (15 cm) . 4 inches (10 cm) up my forearm (the height of the cuff), the circumference was 7" (17.8 cm). Based on the 7" measurement, I added 2" (5 cm) of overlap to be sure the cuff fit. To be sure your cuff will fit, follow this formula: Forearm circumference (at largest part of arm where cuff will sit) + 2 inches (5 cm) = length to cut main fabric and interfacing. From this point forward I'll be referring to the measurements I used to create my cuff. If your scissors are roughly the same size as mine, the only thing that will be different is the length/width of your cuff. Let's do this! Materials For main cuff 2 pieces midweight cotton: 9" (23 cm) x 4" (10 cm) 1 piece lightweight iron-on interfacing: 9" (23 cm) x 4" (10 cm) double-fold bias tape 2 pieces 4" (10 cm) long 2 pieces 10" (25.5 cm) long (the length of the cuff + 1 inch (2.5 cm)) For pocket 2 pieces midweight cotton: 2 3/4" (7 cm) x 3 1/4" (8.25 cm) 1 piece felt or thin batting: 2 3/4" (7 cm) x 3 1/4" (8.25 cm) double-fold bias tape 1 piece 4" (10 cm) long 1 3" (7.5 cm) piece of Velcro Water soluble fabric marker Sewing pins or clips Assembling the Main Cuff Iron the interfacing to the wrong side of one main cuff piece. Place both cuff pieces with wrong sides together and sew around all four sides using a 1/8" (3.175 mm) seam allowance. Sew the 4" (10 cm) bias tape to each short end of the main cuff. Then attach the 10" (25.5 cm) bias tape to the long edges; extend the extra length evenly over each end at the corners. Fold the raw edges in on themselves before sewing the bias tape down. Your main cuff is complete! Assembling the Pocket & Attaching to Cuff Place the two cotton fabric pieces with right sides facing; lay the felt or batting piece on top of them. Sew all three layers together using a scant 1/4" (6.35 mm) seam allowance, leaving one short side unstitched. Trim seam allowance close to stitching. Turn pocket right side out--cotton fabric should now be visible on both sides and felt/batting will be turned to inside. Push out corners and press entire pocket with a hot iron. Apply remaining 4" (10 cm) piece of bias tape to top (open) edge of pocket, turning in raw ends. Center pocket on top of main cuff along bottom edge and stitch through all layers using a 1/8" (3.175 mm) seam allowance--leave top edge of pocket open! Applying Velcro & Finishing Cuff Try the cuff on--hold in place with pins or clips. Using the short end of the overflap as a guide to draw a line with the water soluble marker on the underflap. Your line will be at an angle because the cuff forms a cone as it wraps around your arm. Place the loop side of the Velcro tape just inside the line you drew (following its angle) and sew in place. Flip the cuff over and sew the hook side of the Velcro tape at the opposite end of the cuff. Remove the water soluble line. Your cuff is finished! Strap on the cuff and gather your scissors and needles (the padded pocket makes a nice little mini pincusion!). Your scissors can be worn either underneath or on top of your wrist and you can embroider in peace--no worries about sitting down on a sharp surprise! How do you keep your embroidery scissors under control?
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Ich freue mich so! 2016 habe ich das Ziel gefasst Schnittmuster von Kopf bis Fuß herauszubringen, um auf diese Weise die Möglichkeit zu haben unsere Garderobe komplett selbst zu nähen. Bei den Kinderschnittmustern sind wir schon bestens ausgestattet und doch hat noch ein kleiner Part gefehlt – nämlich das Untendrunter. Deshalb gibt es heute für […]
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We Pack Our Order In Reusable Bag, So Basically We Provide Our Customers A Reusable Bag , So They Can Use It For Many Days... Express Shipping Indian Handmade Patch Work Jackets, Coats, Boho ,Quilted, For Women Made In India Size - All Size We Increase Size Measure And Update Small Size - Chest -38 Inch Length- 20.5 Inch Sleeves -23 Inch Medium Size - Chest-40 Inch Length- 20.5 Inch Sleeves -23 Inch Large Size - Chest- 42 Inch Length- 21 Inch Shoulder -15.5 Inch Sleeves -23 Inch Xl Size - Chest -44 Inch Length - 21 Inch Shoulder-16 Inch Sleeves - 23 Inch Xxl Size Chest- 46- Inches Length -22 Inches Shoulder-17 Inch Sleeves - 23 Inch Fabric Quality - 100 % Cotton Note: As We List The Item Mentioned That It’s Come In Lot So We Will Give You All Piece In Assorted Colors And Designs, It Is Not Necessary That All Display Pieces Will Come Exactly Same But Each And Every Piece Has Its Own Beauty And Will Come Similarly. The Fabrics Are Recycled From Old Silk Saris And Some Garment Could Have Some Small Imperfection. Return- We Accept Returns. Return Policy Same As Etsy Return Policy. Shipping Cost, Insurance, Duties And Taxes Fees Is Non-Refundable. You Are Responsible For The Return Shipping Cost. Please Contact Us Before Sending Any Return. Please Send Returns By Registered Mail Only. Customs Duty Will Paid By Buyer If Any Charge. Thanks For Visiting Us
