My Fimo nose is now ready to be attached to the bear face! I want it to be firmly attached, so that it doesn't come off, and it doesn't move. I use both glue and thread to be on the safe side! My personal choice as materials go is: -Thread: waxed dental floss. It is very resistant. -Glue: Pattex repair extreme. It is not important the brand. What I like is that is is an extremely resistant glue, good for binding practically any material, and not too fast to dry. I don't want glue such as loctite that dry too fast and give no time to adjust your nose position! Step1 Take a long thread of dental floss (about 60-70 cm) and double it. Insert it doubled into your needle. You will need a long sturdy needle (a doll needle). Step 2 Insert the needle into the hole previously made on the bear nose area. (See TUTORIAL on making the nose). The 'nose hole' The needle should go through the head. About a third of the thread should come out back. The rest you will need in front. Step3 Take the thread that is coming out of the 'nose hole' and insert it into the nose metal loop. Step 4 Insert again the thread into your needle. Step 5 Insert the needle into the 'nose hole'. You should go exactly where the other threads are. Your needle should come out close to the back threads, but not exactly in the same spot. Step 6 Now you have to move the exiting threads so that they come out of the other threads' hole. This is so that when you will later bind them together, they will disappear into the head without breaking the fabric. To do this: -insert back the needle through his exiting hole and direct it towards the other threads hole.It should come out through exactly the same hole. It is hard to explain, a picture will help understand: Now all threads come out the same hole. Grasp them all and pull tightly, to be sure that they are all evenly pulling your nose in place. Step 7 Pull your nose out about 3cm from the muzzle. Put a generous drop of glue on the nose back, all around the metal loop. Careful not to put too much, and keep it clear from the edges. Step 8 Holding the nose from the sides, gently pull the threads that are in the back of the head. They will slowly pull your nose towards the muzzle. Check that the nose orientation is right while you are doing it. Your glue will give you time to make adjustments after the nose is in place. When the nose is properly positioned, pull the threads some more so that the nose fits snugly on the needle felted muzzle. Clean any glue that might have come out the edges. Step 9 Let your glue dry. Don't be in a hurry to knot the back threads. If you work on the knots while the glue is not dry, you might move the nose...and end up with a lopsided one! :-( Here is the nose waiting for the glue to dry. Step 10 When the glue has dried, you are ready to tie the threads on the back of the head. I always find it irritating when the fur gets caught in your knots. My personal solution to this little problem is a disc of paper with a hole in the middle. You put the threads through the hole, and the knotting has no hair caught! I tie four knots, quite tight so that they go through the fabric into the head. Then, using my doll needle, I take all threads through the head a couple of times, always going back in where they come out. After that any loose strand can be trimmed away. At this stage, I could be happy with my nose and let it be. But no. Even when molded on the bear face, the Fimo nose to me looks a little like what it is: a nose that has been attached to the bear. I want it to have a natural look, to blend my nose as best as I can to the face. BLENDING THE NOSE TO THE BEAR FACE: Take some wool - the same you have used to needle felt the face. It should be the right length to go round the nose. Poke it with your needle a little on the sponge, but don't felt it too much. Then put it around the nose, with the two 'tails' meeting under the nose. With your needle start poking in that area until both ends of the wool strip are attached to the muzzle. With your needle, poke the wool all around the nose. You want this wool to be perfectly blended with the previous needle felting, but some loose wool should be left on the nose edges. You can repeat the process if you think more wool is needed to fill the gap. This is the final result. It is a matter of personal taste, I like this finishing a bit loose, the needle felting not too hard. After that, my nose is ready for the final touch...shading!

SEE BELOW Any items currently available for sale can be purchased through my website's "shop" page or through my CDHM gallery. If you click the "Buy" button it will take you to my CDHM shop where you can purchase the item through Paypal. MINIATURE WITCH RACCOON & BLACK CAT This little woodland witch measures 1 and 3/8 inches (3.5 cm) to the top of its pointy witch hat and comes with a tiny black cat doll (approx. 3/4" or 2 cm). Both were hand sculpted of polymer clay. 100% soft alpaca was used for the raccoon's "fur" which was applied in very tiny amounts layer by layer, and his eyes are genuine onyx. Price: $165.00 plus shipping SOLD MINIATURE WITCH MOUSE This little witch (or warlock) measures 1.25 inches (approx. 3.2 cm) to the top of her / his hat and comes with his thimble pot of witches brew, and stool (spool of thread). He was hand sculpted of polymer clay, has onyx eyes, a leather tail, and 100% alpaca for his "fur" which was applied in very tiny amounts layer by layer. Her / his brew was created with a combination of polymer clay, liquid clay, glass beads, glass paint, and gloss varnish (so quite the little brew to make the brew, lol). Price: $165.00 SOLD MINIATURE RUNAWAY BUNNY This little bunny was hand sculpted of polymer clay and then furred with 100% alpaca fibers. He carrys a lavender colored bindle (hobo stick). His eyes are onyx. He measures a tiny 2.1 centimeters to the top of his widdle head. PRICE: $120.00 PLUS SHIPPINGSOLD MINIATURE RUNAWAY PUPPY This sad little pup was hand sculpted of polymer clay and furred with alpaca and viscose fibers. His ears and collar are leather, and his eyes are onyx. He carries a hobo stick (which is probably full of doggy biscuits ). He is only 7/8 of an inch tall. PRICE: $125.00 PLUS SHIPPING SOLD MINIATURE MOUSE WITH HAT AND RASPBERRY This little Miss Mouse measures just 2.1 centimeters (or approx. 4/5 inch tall). She was hand sculpted of polymer clay and furred with 100% soft alpaca fibers. Her eyes are onyx and her tail is leather. PRICE: $95.00 plus shipping SOLD MINIATURE OOAK TEDDY BEAR WITH CAP This little guy wearing his faux knit sleeping cap measures approximately 7/8 inch tall. He was hand sculpted of polymer clay, and "furred" small bits at a time to give him that Teddy Bear look and feel. PRICE: $92.00 plus shipping SOLD MINIATURE RUNAWAY MOUSE WITH TEDDY BEAR This little guy is running away from home with just his hobo stick and his companion tied to a rope for safe keeping. He and the teddy bear were hand sculpted of polymer clay. The teddy bear was flocked with cotton fibers for a soft teddy bear look and feel. The mouse was furred with 100% alpaca, has onyx eyes, and leather tail. He measures just 1 inch tall to the tip of his ear. Price: $168.00 plus shipping SOLD MINIATURE ONE OF A KIND DUCKLING WITH EASTER CANDY This little duck with sailor's hat is a tiny 1.5 centimeters (5/8 inch) tall and comes with his jelly bean filled chocolate Easter egg (he looks like he has a sweet tooth, so I couldn't help myself). He was hand sculpted of polymer clay, and his "fur" (or I guess I should say "down") was created by applying a blend of alpaca and synthetic fibers. PRICE: $90.00 plus shipping SOLD MINIATURE ONE OF A KIND BUNNY WEARING AN EASTER BONNET This little bunny is ready for Easter in her pretty new bonnet. And because she looked a little hungry, I made her a little carrot. She measures just 1 & 1/4 inch to the tip of her ear. She was hand sculpted of polymer clay, and has onyx eyes and 100% soft alpaca fur. PRICE: $150.00 plus shipping SOLD

Maltese is a popular item in my shop. 3.5 inches tall, acrylic fiber, wool, leather leash, plastic eyes, polymer clay nose.

My Fimo nose is now ready to be attached to the bear face! I want it to be firmly attached, so that it doesn't come off, and it doesn't move. I use both glue and thread to be on the safe side! My personal choice as materials go is: -Thread: waxed dental floss. It is very resistant. -Glue: Pattex repair extreme. It is not important the brand. What I like is that is is an extremely resistant glue, good for binding practically any material, and not too fast to dry. I don't want glue such as loctite that dry too fast and give no time to adjust your nose position! Step1 Take a long thread of dental floss (about 60-70 cm) and double it. Insert it doubled into your needle. You will need a long sturdy needle (a doll needle). Step 2 Insert the needle into the hole previously made on the bear nose area. (See TUTORIAL on making the nose). The 'nose hole' The needle should go through the head. About a third of the thread should come out back. The rest you will need in front. Step3 Take the thread that is coming out of the 'nose hole' and insert it into the nose metal loop. Step 4 Insert again the thread into your needle. Step 5 Insert the needle into the 'nose hole'. You should go exactly where the other threads are. Your needle should come out close to the back threads, but not exactly in the same spot. Step 6 Now you have to move the exiting threads so that they come out of the other threads' hole. This is so that when you will later bind them together, they will disappear into the head without breaking the fabric. To do this: -insert back the needle through his exiting hole and direct it towards the other threads hole.It should come out through exactly the same hole. It is hard to explain, a picture will help understand: Now all threads come out the same hole. Grasp them all and pull tightly, to be sure that they are all evenly pulling your nose in place. Step 7 Pull your nose out about 3cm from the muzzle. Put a generous drop of glue on the nose back, all around the metal loop. Careful not to put too much, and keep it clear from the edges. Step 8 Holding the nose from the sides, gently pull the threads that are in the back of the head. They will slowly pull your nose towards the muzzle. Check that the nose orientation is right while you are doing it. Your glue will give you time to make adjustments after the nose is in place. When the nose is properly positioned, pull the threads some more so that the nose fits snugly on the needle felted muzzle. Clean any glue that might have come out the edges. Step 9 Let your glue dry. Don't be in a hurry to knot the back threads. If you work on the knots while the glue is not dry, you might move the nose...and end up with a lopsided one! :-( Here is the nose waiting for the glue to dry. Step 10 When the glue has dried, you are ready to tie the threads on the back of the head. I always find it irritating when the fur gets caught in your knots. My personal solution to this little problem is a disc of paper with a hole in the middle. You put the threads through the hole, and the knotting has no hair caught! I tie four knots, quite tight so that they go through the fabric into the head. Then, using my doll needle, I take all threads through the head a couple of times, always going back in where they come out. After that any loose strand can be trimmed away. At this stage, I could be happy with my nose and let it be. But no. Even when molded on the bear face, the Fimo nose to me looks a little like what it is: a nose that has been attached to the bear. I want it to have a natural look, to blend my nose as best as I can to the face. BLENDING THE NOSE TO THE BEAR FACE: Take some wool - the same you have used to needle felt the face. It should be the right length to go round the nose. Poke it with your needle a little on the sponge, but don't felt it too much. Then put it around the nose, with the two 'tails' meeting under the nose. With your needle start poking in that area until both ends of the wool strip are attached to the muzzle. With your needle, poke the wool all around the nose. You want this wool to be perfectly blended with the previous needle felting, but some loose wool should be left on the nose edges. You can repeat the process if you think more wool is needed to fill the gap. This is the final result. It is a matter of personal taste, I like this finishing a bit loose, the needle felting not too hard. After that, my nose is ready for the final touch...shading!

Yahaha! You've found a Korok! Inspired by the many hours I have spent hunting these little fellas playing Zelda. A great gift for fellow Legend of Zelda fans or as a decorative item in your home! Included: Needle felted Korok holding sticks, hollow polymer clay rock, polymer clay Hylian mushrooms and patch of artificial grass. See further detail on materials, dimensions and aftercare below. Materials & Technique: This Korok has been crafted using a needle felting technique. Needle felting involves taking clean, unspun wool and stabbing it repeatedly with a barbed needle until it firms into desired shape. All my woolly creations are made with ethically sourced, non-mulesed wool from trusted suppliers. This Korok is made of green merino wool with sheet felt attached and used for his leaf mask/face. His sticks are made using twigs, with ribbon leaves and polymer clay Berry's glued into place. The rock is made of polymer clay with a shiney painted and varnished underneath. It has model railway synthetic foliage glued on (glue may be visible in some areas and excess foliage may leave a small amount of 'crumb' see below for cleaning and storage). The Hylian mushrooms are also made from polymer clay with painted and varnished spots. Dimensions: The Korok measures 6.5cm wide x 8cm tall x 2.5 cm deep The synthetic grass square measures 12.5cm x 16.5cm. The rock measures 12.5cm x 10cm and is 5cm him height. The mushrooms measure 6cm wide x 6cm tall x 4cm deep. They are designed as a decorative item rather than a toy. Aftercare: Use a dry micro fibre cloth to dust when needed. Best kept in a dry location and out of direct sunlight. Pets may be attracted to the wool so I would also advise keeping out of reach of little paws. If you like the look of this woolly collectible, please check out some of the other items in my store https://etsy.me/2Fk1XQy

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Now I don't profess to be an expert on this, but Louise asked if needle felting was hard, so I'm going to show you how I do it. I didn't use an armature on Hyacinth, but I am using one here for this dog. Cut two pieces of pipe cleaner 4" long and one piece 3 1/2" long. Bend them into the shapes shown. It should end up looking like this. See, two leg parts and one head/body/tail part. Now twist the leg parts around the body part. With a few bends in the right places it's already starting to look like a dog. It almost takes on a life of its own. "Bad dog, stop that! Don't embarrass me in front of the nice ladies." Now take a piece of roving about 5" long and starting at the hip, wrap it around the leg working down to the foot. At the foot turn and start wrapping back up the leg. Now a word about the needles. I'm just a beginner and only have two needles. I don't know anything about size or type, and even with my little pink glasses, I can't see the barbs, but apparently there are barbs on these wickedly sharp things that sort of "tangle" the fibers together. The barbs are up a ways from the tip so you have to poke the needle through the fibers at least 1/2" to make the magic happen. Now start poking through the leg from all angles to secure the fibers. Try to avoid poking the pipe cleaner because that's bad for the needle. You can use the foam block to work on the little parts, or if you're brave and like blood, hold it in your hand. Because I guarantee, sooner or later, you will poke yourself. And like I said these things are WICKEDLY sharp. So be careful if you work in hand. Repeat that routine on all the legs, then do the tail and head and maybe two layers on the body. Your dog should eventually look like that bad dog's sister here. By the way, she is quite well behaved and would never embarrass me in front of you nice ladies. So this is the first part of making a felted dog. Tomorrow we'll start the details and work on house training here Amongst The Oaks.

Janine Gardner discovered needle felting about 5 years ago. Back then her main interest was creating polymer clay figures (dolls), and she found an online tutorial about needle felting around a wir…

This is how I make my bears' noses. I love this way of doing noses as it gives me the chance to make realistic detailing on my animals. To begin with, you will need: -Fimo clay (any color will do, I use black for a realistic look) -A glass eye (you don't need it to be big, in this instance I used a 4mm eye). Fimo & glass eye I always work on my needle felted faces using a felt template to give me the idea of the bear nose. The shape is not that important at this stage, it is useful to have an idea of the approximate dimension of the nose I want. Bear with felt nose template Step1 Take a portion of the Fimo clay, and gently roll it into a ball. To guess the correct size of the ball put it beside your nose template. Don't take too much! In this instance it was a bit too big, and I had to make a second one smaller...I ended up with two noses! :-) You can reduce the quantity while working on the nose shape of course...but at the stage when the shape is almost done I prefer to make a new one and have two instead of reducing and remolding the first. Step2 Take your glass eye. If the metal loop is round, flatten it with your pliers. Same as you would do when using it as an eye! Push the glass pupil right in the middle of the Fimo ball. Step3 With a toothpick gently roll from the outside of the ball perimeter towards the metal loop. The clay should seal the glass pupil inside the ball. The surface around should be flat and even. Step 4 Remove the felt nose template.Trim the loose strands of wool in the nose area.With your awl poke a hole where the nose should be attached. Step 5 Put your Fimo ball on the bear face, inserting the metal loop in the hole. Step 6 Now...have fun hand sculpting the shape you like best for your bear. What I like most doing it this way is that you model the nose right on the bear face, so you have a very precise idea of the look you are aiming at. Also, the nose fits perfectly the muzzle area. It will stick a little to the needl felting underneath, but it is not a problem to remove it later. Step 7 Here are some pictures of the 'nose in progress'. I use tooth picks and grill picks to do my sculpting, and go very gently with my fingers. Making nostrils with a grill pick Extra detailing with a toothpick After some toothpick rolling to even out Below a couple of pictures of detailing on 'nose number 2' Step 8 When you think your nose is ready to be baked, remove it very gently from the muzzle. If you are afraid to ruin it, harden it up a little bit putting the head in the freezer! ;-) You can remove some of the longer wool threads that stick from the back of the nose, but don't worry, they don't burn in the oven. I hold the nose with a clip. The clip holds it from the metal wire. This way the nose touches no surface while baking and bakes better. Ready for baking! Trim the nose area after removing the nose! This is the muzzle after the nose is gone Step 9 Bake following your clay instructions. When the baking is done, you can let your nose cool slowly....or put it into cold water if you are in a hurry! ;-) Both noses after baking- front back Step 10 You can attach your noses right away, or you can give them a little finishing touch. I sand my noses a little bit. This nose was sanded using number 400 sandpaper, which is very fine. You could also give your nose a rougher look using a coarse sandpaper. Sanding is useful also because it takes away your fingerprints from the noses...;-) Wash them, dry them, paint them with acrylic paint. Here they are now, ready to be used! ....I will be using the small one! The big one I will keep for a rainy day! ;-) I hope it was helpful...or interesting at least! Next time I will explain how I attach my noses to the muzzle!

This is how I make my bears' noses. I love this way of doing noses as it gives me the chance to make realistic detailing on my animals. To begin with, you will need: -Fimo clay (any color will do, I use black for a realistic look) -A glass eye (you don't need it to be big, in this instance I used a 4mm eye). Fimo & glass eye I always work on my needle felted faces using a felt template to give me the idea of the bear nose. The shape is not that important at this stage, it is useful to have an idea of the approximate dimension of the nose I want. Bear with felt nose template Step1 Take a portion of the Fimo clay, and gently roll it into a ball. To guess the correct size of the ball put it beside your nose template. Don't take too much! In this instance it was a bit too big, and I had to make a second one smaller...I ended up with two noses! :-) You can reduce the quantity while working on the nose shape of course...but at the stage when the shape is almost done I prefer to make a new one and have two instead of reducing and remolding the first. Step2 Take your glass eye. If the metal loop is round, flatten it with your pliers. Same as you would do when using it as an eye! Push the glass pupil right in the middle of the Fimo ball. Step3 With a toothpick gently roll from the outside of the ball perimeter towards the metal loop. The clay should seal the glass pupil inside the ball. The surface around should be flat and even. Step 4 Remove the felt nose template.Trim the loose strands of wool in the nose area.With your awl poke a hole where the nose should be attached. Step 5 Put your Fimo ball on the bear face, inserting the metal loop in the hole. Step 6 Now...have fun hand sculpting the shape you like best for your bear. What I like most doing it this way is that you model the nose right on the bear face, so you have a very precise idea of the look you are aiming at. Also, the nose fits perfectly the muzzle area. It will stick a little to the needl felting underneath, but it is not a problem to remove it later. Step 7 Here are some pictures of the 'nose in progress'. I use tooth picks and grill picks to do my sculpting, and go very gently with my fingers. Making nostrils with a grill pick Extra detailing with a toothpick After some toothpick rolling to even out Below a couple of pictures of detailing on 'nose number 2' Step 8 When you think your nose is ready to be baked, remove it very gently from the muzzle. If you are afraid to ruin it, harden it up a little bit putting the head in the freezer! ;-) You can remove some of the longer wool threads that stick from the back of the nose, but don't worry, they don't burn in the oven. I hold the nose with a clip. The clip holds it from the metal wire. This way the nose touches no surface while baking and bakes better. Ready for baking! Trim the nose area after removing the nose! This is the muzzle after the nose is gone Step 9 Bake following your clay instructions. When the baking is done, you can let your nose cool slowly....or put it into cold water if you are in a hurry! ;-) Both noses after baking- front back Step 10 You can attach your noses right away, or you can give them a little finishing touch. I sand my noses a little bit. This nose was sanded using number 400 sandpaper, which is very fine. You could also give your nose a rougher look using a coarse sandpaper. Sanding is useful also because it takes away your fingerprints from the noses...;-) Wash them, dry them, paint them with acrylic paint. Here they are now, ready to be used! ....I will be using the small one! The big one I will keep for a rainy day! ;-) I hope it was helpful...or interesting at least! Next time I will explain how I attach my noses to the muzzle!

Hi, this is a listing for one magnet. Never thought a garlic 🧄 magnet can be so cute on the fridge. What a fun way to cheer up your kitchen or work station in the office. These magnets are super soft and floppy light. Just melt your heart and soul after a long day. They are so cute! I love to looking at their smiling face. What a refreshing experience that you can always have right at home or work. These fridge magnets are needle felted by hand made with 100% premium wool. Approximate size about 2.5" x 1.5”. 💌 Disclaimer: This product is not intended for children under 3 years old.

Our collection of patterns has recently been added to with nice birds, including a sparrow, an owl, a chicken and a bullfinch. As a result, we started to get questions where one can find a suitable beak. Few craft shops can boast of a great variety of them.We always want you to be happy with our patterns (link to shop), so we have an answer.If you want a thing well done, do it yourself JMaterials and tools:What will you need to make a beak? Not much!- A piece of polymer clay of matching color (u

I'm almost done with my latest mushroom terrarium. The weather is a bit dreary and isn't doing my photography skills any favors so I'll have to share better pics later. I've finished with felting and now I just need to complete the wood base and wait for a new glass dome to arrive (the last one arrived broken). I've chosen a chunk of oak that I've had in the barn for a couple of years for the base. It's a hefty chunk left from a tree that was felled when we built our home. I counted 57 rings on it before I started sanding. I'm planning to do a shop update later in the week and will have more info soon. Today I'm switching gears (again) and have stones on my table, including some from my project. Lots to do. I hope your week is off to a great start.

You are purchasing a PDF which will give you access to the Pods and Pollen Earrings & Necklace Needle Felting Tutorial which you can watch online. In this class you will learn how to measure fiber to make objects of the same size, how to create a gradation of color similar to “Skinner blend” in polymer clay, using craft felt as a foundation, creation of a partial taper, application of surface design and how to construct the Pods & Pollen necklace. This class includes the class handout. The class you are purchasing was originally created for CraftArtEDU which closed in 2017. There will be references to CAE in the video. Links in the video that worked when viewed on CAE will not work now. Where possible, handouts, and/or material lists, and/or templates for the class you have purchased will be included. Unfortunately, they are not always available as my personal copies of said materials were lost when my studio burnt to the ground at the end of 2017. The videos being offered were those saved by CAE as it closed down and not the copies I had saved to my own computer. The quality of the videos sometimes has suffered. They are viewable, and of sufficient quality to still be useful and informative tutorials. If you ever have questions about the class you have purchased, I am more than happy to help! I love teaching and working with CraftArtEdu was one of the best experiences of my life! - Harlan

A step-by-step tutorial on how to make the cutest little needle felted bunny. Who’s thinking about bunnies? With Easter just a few days away, I decided to get to work with my needle and wool to make my kids a couple of Easter bunny gifts. Alas, Teddy walked in and caught me in the act […]

I don’t know about you all, but this artist is one of the best sculptors I’ve seen yet.Her name is Michelle Bradshaw and all of her work is amazing! Looking for more polymer fairy tutor…

"Protection" Needle felted wool, LED & e-textile materials (Lit only when button is held) --- Plush You! 2011 Schmancy, Seattle Opening reception October 14, 5-9pm

Needle Felted Dolls by Felt Alive. Meet Kay's zany celebrity caricatures and original designs she creates with her Felt Alive Felting Needles.

Ukrainian crafter Hanna Dovhan (previously) continues to produce squeal-inducing felt sculptures of foodie friends like this new egg design as well as pairs of cherries, bananas, and pears. She shares new designs on her Tumblr and occasionally sells new designs on Etsy. More

Jewish Dolls miniatures Characters polymer clay wool needle felted hand made israel

You are purchasing a PDF which will give you access to the Pods and Pollen Earrings & Necklace Needle Felting Tutorial which you can watch online. In this class you will learn how to measure fiber to make objects of the same size, how to create a gradation of color similar to “Skinner blend” in polymer clay, using craft felt as a foundation, creation of a partial taper, application of surface design and how to construct the Pods & Pollen necklace. This class includes the class handout. The class you are purchasing was originally created for CraftArtEDU which closed in 2017. There will be references to CAE in the video. Links in the video that worked when viewed on CAE will not work now. Where possible, handouts, and/or material lists, and/or templates for the class you have purchased will be included. Unfortunately, they are not always available as my personal copies of said materials were lost when my studio burnt to the ground at the end of 2017. The videos being offered were those saved by CAE as it closed down and not the copies I had saved to my own computer. The quality of the videos sometimes has suffered. They are viewable, and of sufficient quality to still be useful and informative tutorials. If you ever have questions about the class you have purchased, I am more than happy to help! I love teaching and working with CraftArtEdu was one of the best experiences of my life! - Harlan