HERE'S A SIMPLE WAY TO GET AN AUTHENTIC COPPER PATINA LOOK ON *ANY* SURFACE IN 5 EASY STEPS! | YOUTUBE VIDEO Hi SI family. Happy Tuesday and thanks for joining me today. Do you love the look of a patina but aren't sure how to get a patina finish on your project? I LOOOVE the

Hello all, Hope that everyone is having a wonderful week. First things first. The uber-talented Tracy of pipnmolly now has a blog! Tracy's artwork is incredible and now we all can enjoy getting to know the amazing lady behind the treasures. Not to mention you can see swimming elephants when you pay her a visit! Great stuff! Just a few pictures for you to wade through before we get to the reason you're here. Non-lung-eating-patina-recipes as promised! Still hoping that one of you may have the know how to explain how to put the recipes on the sidebar with a fancy little button that will open up the page whenever you want to acess them without sorting through an entire old post. I know how to get html code for photos, is it the same for text? PLEASE ANYONE? How about those of you who know blogger coming and going. C'mon, do a good deed- help out the tech challenged. Thanks so much in advance. See, that's positive thinking in action. This is what I've listed in my etsy shop since my last post. Dancing by Moonlight beneath the Sparkling Stars Duex- sold Sunset Turkoman Goes Modern Duex- sold Romantic Moon Garden's Evening Embrace I've long dreamed of having a moon garden. A quiet place to relax and drink in the beauty of the white blossoms that open at twilight filling the night air with their sweet aroma. In the darkness, also trying to make out the shadows of those blooms that are at their brightest during daylight hours and that fade seamlessly into the night. That was the inspiration for these earrings. Raw silk texture brass hole in one bracelet with a champagne colored stick pearl toggle closure. Rustic oxidized crystal twisted hoop earrings A few other things got listed but you've seen them before, so I'll spare you. A few months ago Kim of Flotsam Tide fame and I were discussing alternatives to the usual chemical varieties of patinas. These are most of the recipes I share with my students in class. I sent them to her and she suggested that I put them on my blog. So finally, here they are! There are many many others, but these are the basics. Here are my sample photos of pieces that have been colored with common oxidizing agents and also those I've done with the alternate recipes. This is by no means an exhaustive list, just what I like to use. Liver of Sulphur on copper sheet Liver of Sulphur on copper wire Liver of Sulphur on textured copper and patterned brass (with enameled headpins) Repetition for emphasis....this is brass that has been torched. If you're fast with the torch you get colors but if you want it really dark, just let it get to the glowing orange stage. This is my fav blackening process. Quick, clean and doesn't irritate my lungs with nasty chemicals. Course the drawback is that it only works on components not on a finished piece. Well, I guess you could torch a finished piece if you were so inclined but.......... sealed with a spray metal sealant Novacan black. I don't know why I did that thing with the papers. (Unless it's cuz I was afraid I would be brain dead and not be able to recognize the patina used in the less than fantastic photograghs.) I do know I'm not going to reshoot all of these photos just cuz it looks ridiculous. Let's all pretend it's not there. That's what I'm doing. Woohoo, you get this photo twice in one post. The pink ball-head pins that make up the center of the white blossoms, are achieved by making, then immediately quenching copper ball-headpins in hot water. Some more Jax Pewter Black. Which as you can see, works on a variety of metals equally well. Gilders paste which comes in numerous colors. On the window and door of the "We're Not in Kansas Anymore" necklace, I've layered white Gilders paste over the vibrant red and blue colors to soften and age them. Acrylic paint patina on raw and heat patinated brass. Alcohol inks on raw brass Prismacolor colored pencils on copper bigger but not clearer. This technique works well on textured metals. Prismacolor pencils on reticulated copper. Enamel on copper, pennies and brass. Enamels are not thought to adhere well to brass, but I haven't had any issues with this brass filigree that I torch fired enamels onto. All of these pieces were torch fired. From the delicate copper wire headpins to the thick copper hardware fitting. Foldformed copper with torch fired enamels Jax Green on heat patinated copper and brass. Jax Green on foldformed, heat patinated copper and on brass leaf stampings soldered onto brass. Flame "painting"- heat patina on copper. Done with a torch. Fume patina Sawdust patina Salt water soak and an oven. Steel embedded in concrete that has been rusted with repeated salt water applications. Potato chip patina THAT'S ALL FOLKS! That's a pretty good sampling of what you can do to color metal easily. Well, to be accurate, that's all the pictures. Now come the words you all love so much. Here's the recipes and safety suggestions. Nothing fancy and in no particular order. Please observe safety precautions when working with chemicals. Here's a very important rule to remember when working with any type of chemicals..... Do what you oughta, add acid to water. Never add water to chemicals. It can bubble or foam up or even do bigger scarier things. Atmosphere affects the reaction and results of applied patinas. It is hard to duplicate results. I get the most beautiful irridescent flame painted effects on copper in the autumn when the air is cool and dry. You must remove lacquer or other protective finishes from the metal prior to applying patinas. Wear a respirator if you are spraying any chemicals or natural patinas. If working indoors, which is not recommended, ventilation is very important. RECIPES ~Basic recipe: Mix: 2 cups of white vinegar 1 1/2 cups non sudsy ammonia 1/2 cup kosher or sea salt (more salt=more green. Less salt=less green) Mix until salt is completely dissolved. Can spray or dip metal into the solution. ~Fume patina: Dip an item in vinegar, sprinkle w/ salt then put it into a container w/ ammonia. Close and seal the lid. I use a plastic deviled egg container. I put ammonia in the spaces for the eggs then lay the metal pieces on a shelf that I made from thick screen or mesh. You want the metal to be suspended above the ammonia so that the fumes create the patina, not direct contact. You can also have a small open container of ammonia sitting inside the larger container that holds the metal pieces. When happy with the results, (which can take up to 24 hours) rinse the metal and dry. ~Sawdust patina: Bury metal item in sawdust or pet bedding that has been dampened or saturated w/ vinegar. Sprinkle w/ salt. Cover. Wait an hour or so and check. You can also use ammonia in the mix. Fine sawdust=fine mottling. For more color add lots of salt. You can let the pieces dry in the sun preferably before rinsing to let the patina adhere better. Try coffee grounds or shredded paper instead of sawdust. ~Potato chip patina: Crush salt and vinegar potato chips into a container. Bury metal pieces in the chips then spray with water. Let sit for up to 24 hours. Rinse and dry. ~Wiping bleach onto copper will remove the shine and dull and age the finish. ~Baking salt water soaked brass in an oven will age it. The temperature of the oven and length of time you leave it in the oven, will depend on how dark you want the metal to be. You may have to repeat the process a few times to achieve the desired results. 300 degrees is a good temp to begin with. Lower or increase as needed. Experiment! ~You can also get lovely, reddish heat patinas from copper heated in a 300 degree oven. (no oil involved) ~I like to torch my copper and brass to achieve a dark base color before I apply other patinas. ~When flame painting or heat patinating, the most dramatic colors often develop on the opposite side of the metal that you heat with the torch. But not always. These results are extremely dependant upon atmospheric conditions. ~Colored pencil patinas: I like to use this technique on textured metal. I also like to preheat it to darken the metal a bit, let it cool, then apply the oily colored pencils. Oil pastels also work well for this technique. Apply the colors, heat from the backside, apply more colors. Repeat, building layers of colors. An electric mug warmer may work to keep your metal warm enough to melt and blend the colors nicely. ~Liver-of-Sulphur patina: Add a few drops of ammonia for an irridescent effect. ~Dusty blue-green patina: Mix: Red wine vinegar and Miracle Grow plant food. Start with a tablespoon of vinegar and stir in as much Miracle Grow as the solution will hold (a teaspoon or more). The Miracle Grow supplies the ammonia which provides the blue color. This can also be done with salt instead of Miracle Grow for a nice green patina. Miracle Grow can be mixed w/ water in stead of red wine vinegar for a bluer patina. ~Oil metal then torch it, outside of course. It will smoke, create a stinky fume and possibly flame up. ~You can paint on or apply resists to the metal before applying the patinating solutions for specific designs. ~The following are things you can do to rust steel or alter metal. DO NOT USE OR MIX THEM TOGETHER! Apply them seperately to different pieces of metal or completely clean the metal between applications of different solutions. *Use all safety precautions when using chemicals, eye protection, gloves (nitrile), a respirator, etc. Degrease your metals first, then apply: "Off" mosquito spray Swimming pool acid Bleach Vinegar Lemon juice *Pool acid- hydrochloric acid, used weak *Muriatic acid- (pool acid) will clean then rust steel. Apply with a cloth. If you are diluting it, add acid to water. Torch metal, cool, then soak it in toilet bowl cleaner "The Works" cleaner, sprayed on metal Brush mustard on metal. Let it sit a few days, then rub oil onto it or dip it in oil. Will have a nice reddish brown color. Never heat metal that has had chemicals applied to it. This can produce fatal fumes. There are so many fun things to do to apply color to metal. I would love to see photos if any of you use these suggestions. Blue Springs, Florida A little something to clear our heads from all of that serious info. If that sparkling clear spring water doesn't do it, then.......we've got a bad case of fried brain syndrome. Only ice-cream cures it btw. Hey did you all notice, not a single flower photo in this whole post? Can you believe that the bulbs are almost played out in the middle of April?! That's a shocker. Of course having a freeze last night didn't help. Remember those cool nails that Petra sent me? I made them into earrings. Love them! Wanna see? These aren't for sale. Keeping these babies for myself. In fact I wore them all day yesterday and absolutely love them. THANK YOU PETRA!! You might be wondering about the results of my roller printing with those cool low relief patterns from rolling mill resource that I shared with you last time. Didn't have time to work with them yet. Can you imagine? Hoping to have some nice patterned metal to show you next time. Hope you're all having a great week! Looks like he got a whiff of some of those ammonia fumes. Poor thing. You guys have to admit, he's kind of cute. Hasta La Vista 

Originální autorský prsten, pouze jediný v nabídce

Want to learn the basics of DIY patina painting techniques? In these patina projects, we'll show you how to faux finish furniture like tables and chairs!

Want to add a dark finish to your silver jewelry? Here are a few at home methods, along with some more advanced options to enhance, highlight or darken the finish of your jewelry.

Hello all, Hope that everyone is having a wonderful week. First things first. The uber-talented Tracy of pipnmolly now has a blog! Tracy's artwork is incredible and now we all can enjoy getting to know the amazing lady behind the treasures. Not to mention you can see swimming elephants when you pay her a visit! Great stuff! Just a few pictures for you to wade through before we get to the reason you're here. Non-lung-eating-patina-recipes as promised! Still hoping that one of you may have the know how to explain how to put the recipes on the sidebar with a fancy little button that will open up the page whenever you want to acess them without sorting through an entire old post. I know how to get html code for photos, is it the same for text? PLEASE ANYONE? How about those of you who know blogger coming and going. C'mon, do a good deed- help out the tech challenged. Thanks so much in advance. See, that's positive thinking in action. This is what I've listed in my etsy shop since my last post. Dancing by Moonlight beneath the Sparkling Stars Duex- sold Sunset Turkoman Goes Modern Duex- sold Romantic Moon Garden's Evening Embrace I've long dreamed of having a moon garden. A quiet place to relax and drink in the beauty of the white blossoms that open at twilight filling the night air with their sweet aroma. In the darkness, also trying to make out the shadows of those blooms that are at their brightest during daylight hours and that fade seamlessly into the night. That was the inspiration for these earrings. Raw silk texture brass hole in one bracelet with a champagne colored stick pearl toggle closure. Rustic oxidized crystal twisted hoop earrings A few other things got listed but you've seen them before, so I'll spare you. A few months ago Kim of Flotsam Tide fame and I were discussing alternatives to the usual chemical varieties of patinas. These are most of the recipes I share with my students in class. I sent them to her and she suggested that I put them on my blog. So finally, here they are! There are many many others, but these are the basics. Here are my sample photos of pieces that have been colored with common oxidizing agents and also those I've done with the alternate recipes. This is by no means an exhaustive list, just what I like to use. Liver of Sulphur on copper sheet Liver of Sulphur on copper wire Liver of Sulphur on textured copper and patterned brass (with enameled headpins) Repetition for emphasis....this is brass that has been torched. If you're fast with the torch you get colors but if you want it really dark, just let it get to the glowing orange stage. This is my fav blackening process. Quick, clean and doesn't irritate my lungs with nasty chemicals. Course the drawback is that it only works on components not on a finished piece. Well, I guess you could torch a finished piece if you were so inclined but.......... sealed with a spray metal sealant Novacan black. I don't know why I did that thing with the papers. (Unless it's cuz I was afraid I would be brain dead and not be able to recognize the patina used in the less than fantastic photograghs.) I do know I'm not going to reshoot all of these photos just cuz it looks ridiculous. Let's all pretend it's not there. That's what I'm doing. Woohoo, you get this photo twice in one post. The pink ball-head pins that make up the center of the white blossoms, are achieved by making, then immediately quenching copper ball-headpins in hot water. Some more Jax Pewter Black. Which as you can see, works on a variety of metals equally well. Gilders paste which comes in numerous colors. On the window and door of the "We're Not in Kansas Anymore" necklace, I've layered white Gilders paste over the vibrant red and blue colors to soften and age them. Acrylic paint patina on raw and heat patinated brass. Alcohol inks on raw brass Prismacolor colored pencils on copper bigger but not clearer. This technique works well on textured metals. Prismacolor pencils on reticulated copper. Enamel on copper, pennies and brass. Enamels are not thought to adhere well to brass, but I haven't had any issues with this brass filigree that I torch fired enamels onto. All of these pieces were torch fired. From the delicate copper wire headpins to the thick copper hardware fitting. Foldformed copper with torch fired enamels Jax Green on heat patinated copper and brass. Jax Green on foldformed, heat patinated copper and on brass leaf stampings soldered onto brass. Flame "painting"- heat patina on copper. Done with a torch. Fume patina Sawdust patina Salt water soak and an oven. Steel embedded in concrete that has been rusted with repeated salt water applications. Potato chip patina THAT'S ALL FOLKS! That's a pretty good sampling of what you can do to color metal easily. Well, to be accurate, that's all the pictures. Now come the words you all love so much. Here's the recipes and safety suggestions. Nothing fancy and in no particular order. Please observe safety precautions when working with chemicals. Here's a very important rule to remember when working with any type of chemicals..... Do what you oughta, add acid to water. Never add water to chemicals. It can bubble or foam up or even do bigger scarier things. Atmosphere affects the reaction and results of applied patinas. It is hard to duplicate results. I get the most beautiful irridescent flame painted effects on copper in the autumn when the air is cool and dry. You must remove lacquer or other protective finishes from the metal prior to applying patinas. Wear a respirator if you are spraying any chemicals or natural patinas. If working indoors, which is not recommended, ventilation is very important. RECIPES ~Basic recipe: Mix: 2 cups of white vinegar 1 1/2 cups non sudsy ammonia 1/2 cup kosher or sea salt (more salt=more green. Less salt=less green) Mix until salt is completely dissolved. Can spray or dip metal into the solution. ~Fume patina: Dip an item in vinegar, sprinkle w/ salt then put it into a container w/ ammonia. Close and seal the lid. I use a plastic deviled egg container. I put ammonia in the spaces for the eggs then lay the metal pieces on a shelf that I made from thick screen or mesh. You want the metal to be suspended above the ammonia so that the fumes create the patina, not direct contact. You can also have a small open container of ammonia sitting inside the larger container that holds the metal pieces. When happy with the results, (which can take up to 24 hours) rinse the metal and dry. ~Sawdust patina: Bury metal item in sawdust or pet bedding that has been dampened or saturated w/ vinegar. Sprinkle w/ salt. Cover. Wait an hour or so and check. You can also use ammonia in the mix. Fine sawdust=fine mottling. For more color add lots of salt. You can let the pieces dry in the sun preferably before rinsing to let the patina adhere better. Try coffee grounds or shredded paper instead of sawdust. ~Potato chip patina: Crush salt and vinegar potato chips into a container. Bury metal pieces in the chips then spray with water. Let sit for up to 24 hours. Rinse and dry. ~Wiping bleach onto copper will remove the shine and dull and age the finish. ~Baking salt water soaked brass in an oven will age it. The temperature of the oven and length of time you leave it in the oven, will depend on how dark you want the metal to be. You may have to repeat the process a few times to achieve the desired results. 300 degrees is a good temp to begin with. Lower or increase as needed. Experiment! ~You can also get lovely, reddish heat patinas from copper heated in a 300 degree oven. (no oil involved) ~I like to torch my copper and brass to achieve a dark base color before I apply other patinas. ~When flame painting or heat patinating, the most dramatic colors often develop on the opposite side of the metal that you heat with the torch. But not always. These results are extremely dependant upon atmospheric conditions. ~Colored pencil patinas: I like to use this technique on textured metal. I also like to preheat it to darken the metal a bit, let it cool, then apply the oily colored pencils. Oil pastels also work well for this technique. Apply the colors, heat from the backside, apply more colors. Repeat, building layers of colors. An electric mug warmer may work to keep your metal warm enough to melt and blend the colors nicely. ~Liver-of-Sulphur patina: Add a few drops of ammonia for an irridescent effect. ~Dusty blue-green patina: Mix: Red wine vinegar and Miracle Grow plant food. Start with a tablespoon of vinegar and stir in as much Miracle Grow as the solution will hold (a teaspoon or more). The Miracle Grow supplies the ammonia which provides the blue color. This can also be done with salt instead of Miracle Grow for a nice green patina. Miracle Grow can be mixed w/ water in stead of red wine vinegar for a bluer patina. ~Oil metal then torch it, outside of course. It will smoke, create a stinky fume and possibly flame up. ~You can paint on or apply resists to the metal before applying the patinating solutions for specific designs. ~The following are things you can do to rust steel or alter metal. DO NOT USE OR MIX THEM TOGETHER! Apply them seperately to different pieces of metal or completely clean the metal between applications of different solutions. *Use all safety precautions when using chemicals, eye protection, gloves (nitrile), a respirator, etc. Degrease your metals first, then apply: "Off" mosquito spray Swimming pool acid Bleach Vinegar Lemon juice *Pool acid- hydrochloric acid, used weak *Muriatic acid- (pool acid) will clean then rust steel. Apply with a cloth. If you are diluting it, add acid to water. Torch metal, cool, then soak it in toilet bowl cleaner "The Works" cleaner, sprayed on metal Brush mustard on metal. Let it sit a few days, then rub oil onto it or dip it in oil. Will have a nice reddish brown color. Never heat metal that has had chemicals applied to it. This can produce fatal fumes. There are so many fun things to do to apply color to metal. I would love to see photos if any of you use these suggestions. Blue Springs, Florida A little something to clear our heads from all of that serious info. If that sparkling clear spring water doesn't do it, then.......we've got a bad case of fried brain syndrome. Only ice-cream cures it btw. Hey did you all notice, not a single flower photo in this whole post? Can you believe that the bulbs are almost played out in the middle of April?! That's a shocker. Of course having a freeze last night didn't help. Remember those cool nails that Petra sent me? I made them into earrings. Love them! Wanna see? These aren't for sale. Keeping these babies for myself. In fact I wore them all day yesterday and absolutely love them. THANK YOU PETRA!! You might be wondering about the results of my roller printing with those cool low relief patterns from rolling mill resource that I shared with you last time. Didn't have time to work with them yet. Can you imagine? Hoping to have some nice patterned metal to show you next time. Hope you're all having a great week! Looks like he got a whiff of some of those ammonia fumes. Poor thing. You guys have to admit, he's kind of cute. Hasta La Vista 

How to Create Blue Patina on Copper How do you create patina on copper? I am talking about the natural way, without harsh chemicals or fake paints. You may have seen natural patina on

Hello dear readers, You all know by now, that I am developing a bit of an obsession with copper. I think it is a natural progression to want to start playing with the effects that copper can give - particularly the 'patina'. Actually, the meaning of 'patina' is really something that results from usage or corrosion over time, usually a greenish layer (basic copper sulphate) that forms on copper or bronze. So, technically, some of the patinas I am about to show you are more of a chemical reaction than a patina ... but none the less, they look great ... so please come and take a look. Copper dipped in vinegar, sprinkled with course salt and sat on a bed of paper towel wet with cloudy ammonia. Left, covered, for 24 hours. As above, (no vinegar) but suspended in a coffee can on a wire above a 1/4 cup of liquid ammonia - result shown after 24 hours. As above, after 48 hours. Colored effect after heating with a soft torch. Do a section at a time. When you see the color emerge, dip it in cold water and then move on to another section until you get the result you want. The copper was covered with flux on both sides and then heated to a dark red glow on each side. Immerse in water and repeat. The photo shows the result after two coatings. The reverse side. I may have over heated this piece as I do not think it is really meant to go as black as this. The copper was coated with a thin smear of Gilder's Paste, Patina. Color using Liver of Sulphur. Top row: L- rich brown, R- some "oil" type effect. Bottom row: L- Dark grey, almost black. R- Dark coloration left in an imprint after removing some patina with fine steel wool. As you can see, I have had a bit of fun with this. If you try it yourself, just make sure the lids on those containers seal well ... the ammonia is very strong .... have good ventilation or go outside when opening the container/tin. As you can see the patina effect on the first 6 photos is a little crusty ... I will need to lightly brush it off a little more and then seal it with a spray for it to be usable in jewellery . See also Patina Experiments no. 2 for a different batch of patina colours . That's it for today, folks, have a good day, Jenni

Free jewelry tutorials, plus a friendly community sharing creative ideas for making and selling jewelry.

Hello dear readers, You all know by now, that I am developing a bit of an obsession with copper. I think it is a natural progression to ...

Zegarek kieszonkowy z 1700 roku GEORGE PRIOR LONDON srebro plus srebrna dewizka z kluczykami wszystko sygnowane ,zegarek średnica 50 mm bez uchwytu mechanizm łańcuszkowy szpindel zegarek sprawny .Zegarek nie czyszczony w tym stanie ma cały urok z oryginalna patyną , szkiełko z tak zwanym rybim oczkiem cena.RARYTAS. Pocket watch from 1700 GEORGE PRIOR LONDON, silver plus silver pendant with everything signed with keys, watch diameter 50 mm without a handle, mechanism chain spindle watch is working. The watch is not cleaned in this condition charm with an original patina, glass with a so-called fish eye, RARYTAS.

Explore dontaylor's 3344 photos on Flickr!

HERE'S A SIMPLE WAY TO GET AN AUTHENTIC COPPER PATINA LOOK ON *ANY* SURFACE IN 5 EASY STEPS! | YOUTUBE VIDEO Hi SI family. Happy Tuesday and thanks for joining me today. Do you love the look of a patina but aren't sure how to get a patina finish on your project? I LOOOVE the

3leapfrogs: “ |||||8|||||•=• •=• •=• 3leapfrogs|• ”

In this blog post I share a new project. A patina painted tabletop with texture finish and a nautical life furniture transfer.

Wow, #59 on Explore -- thanks! :-)

Inspiration for painting seashells via one of our California stockists, Patina Home and Garden. Did you know you can paint our moldings with a Sharpie?

ONLY ONLGINA SHORT HOOD - Sweater - patina green voor € 17,69 (2024-06-16). Gratis verzending voor de meeste bestellingen*

A simple quick guide to get a fun faux patina on metal decor. How to use Patina Paint to create an aged patina finish on metal home decor.

Dive into the world of rust patina finishes and discover the transformative effects of the Yellow Patina Spray. Follow along as we experiment and unveil the captivating results that add texture and depth to your projects.

My aunt and I finally had a chance a to sit down and try out the new Swellegant patina system that I picked up at Bead & Button. The system includes a metal paint that actually turns the surface of a piece into metal! You can use it on metal, polymer clay and a whole slew of other surfaces. Once you have the metal coat, there are patinas you apply to give that lovely aged and matte finish of weathered metal. The final part of the system is to use dye oxides - super intense pigments that stain the metal. You can discover all the ins and outs of Swellegant from B'Sue Boutiques. Okay, in case you aren't picturing it - this is the magic of Swellegant! The piece on the left is an inexpensive pewter piece. The right is a copper patina treatment using the metal paints, patina and dyes. This is what the pieces look like with the metal coat in bronze. I did 3-4 coats before the final coat when you do the patina. You need to do the patina while the last coat of metal is still wet. We found that just dabbing the patina on in a juicy coat without brushing it on works best. It's more of a flooding it with dabs of the patina. Then you need to just hold your horses and wait at least an hour for the chemical reaction of the patina to take place. At first it doesn't look like it's working, but give it some time. And even then it doesn't look like much until you do the final two steps. And this is where we ran into a problem. Rosanne and I were expecting magical results, that we'd brush on the metal and patina and bam - it would be this awesome transformation in these vivid, bright colors. But here is the issue, Swellegant is fussy stuff. You need to do a little artsy-fartsy mojo to get the best results. And I'll share some of those tips below. Now if you aren't the artsy type, don't worry - with a little trial and error you can get it. And this is where things get really exciting - the colorful dyes. My favorite technique with the dyes is to add in a bit of the white dye on top of the color. I would paint on the dye, let it dry, add another color, dab a little here, a little there. After the dyes are dry you take a little bit of the metal paint on your finger (gloved, of course) and run it over the raised edges of the metal to add in some highlights. I really feel like this is the key to getting a good piece, it just makes everything sing. If you like instant gratification - this is not the coloring system for you. It takes a lot of back and forth to get good results, there is some serious wait time between coats and then after it's ALL said and done you need to wait 48-72 hours and apply a matte sealer. Is it worth it? During the process I was ready to say no, but after giving it some time and working at a little more - I couldn't be happier with the way they turned out. And now no piece of metal is safe in my house! Rosanne on the other hand felt it was too time intensive and didn't get consistent enough results. I will try to win her over again, probably at my retreat this fall because I am so using these in one of my classes! Oh and another tip - you can't mess it up, use light coats of paint each time to avoid losing details. But if you get to the end and hate your results, just hit it with another coat of metal and patina again to start over. Here are my results on various metals (mostly pewter) and polymer clay. Scroll down to the bottom for some of my formulas. Brass Patina Bronze Patina Ancient Bronze Patina Copper Patina Golden Patina Acid Green (These are Rosanne's pieces) Copper Acid Bath Rusted Iron Midsummer Night's Dream Patina Formulas The forumlas I used are listed in the order of application, be sure to read all directions and follow the steps correctly for best results. MC = Metal Coat, P = Patina, D=Dye-Oxide 1. Brass Patina - Brass (MC), Tiffany Blue (P), Aqua Green (D), White (D), Brass (MC) 2. Bronze Patina - Bronze (MC), Tiffany Blue (P), Aqua Green (D), White (D), Bronze (MC) 3. Ancient Bronze - Bronze (MC), Tiffany Blue (P), Aqua Green (D) repeat dye 2 x, Bronze (MC) 4. Copper Patina - Copper (MC), Tiffany Blue (P), Aqua Green (D) White (D), Copper (MC) 5. Golden Patina - Brass (MC) Green-Gold Verdigris (P), Aqua Green (D), White (D), Sun Yellow (D), Brass (MC) 6. Acid Green - Bronze (MC), Green-Gold Verdigris (P) 7. Copper Acid Bath - Copper (MC), Green-Gold Verdigris (P), Tangerine Orange (D), Chartreuse (D), White (D), Chartreuse (D), Copper (MC) 8. Rusted Iron - Iron (MC), Tiffany Blue (P), Blood Red (D), Silver (MC), Iron (MC) 9. Midsummer Night's Dream - Bronze (MC), Purple (D), Indigo (D), Purple (D), White (D) Bronze (MC), Brass (MC)

Amazing set of A to Z cast iron, gold gilded bookends by Curtis Jere, signed and dated 1968. Very heavy. Wear is consistent with age and use, lovely patina. The "A" measures 5 3/4" by 1 1/2" by 4 3/8", the "Z" measures 5 7/8" by 1 1/2" by 4 5/8" less

Frequentando questo corso potrai apprendere le basi per realizzare delle patine antiche: scopri le date, le modalità di svolgimento e i costi.

Furniture patina is the wear of the finish being tarnished from use, and exposure to the elemens. Over time the finish starts to tell its own story.

Free jewelry tutorials, plus a friendly community sharing creative ideas for making and selling jewelry.

Anfora Estefanie - Poliresina lavorata in modo artistico. Accuratamente dipinta a mano. Lavorata con ricchezza dei dettagli nello stile di antichi originali del barocco francese. È soprattutto la fini

White plaster busts are a dime a dozen at flea markets and thrift stores! They can usually be found with a nice price tag too! Transforming them is always fun a…

* Copper Cuff Bracelet. Brass is available on the option. * 1.25" Wide. 0.8 mm Thick Copper. Hammered and Molten Shiny Edges. Other Wide is available. Please contact. * Mixed Verdi Green Blue Patina with Rust. Matt Ceramic Coated on the Patina. Very durable and Hardly worn out. Shiny Patina will be done by the Request. Patina on both sides. * Advise your Wrist Size on the Note.

My aunt and I finally had a chance a to sit down and try out the new Swellegant patina system that I picked up at Bead & Button. The system includes a metal paint that actually turns the surface of a piece into metal! You can use it on metal, polymer clay and a whole slew of other surfaces. Once you have the metal coat, there are patinas you apply to give that lovely aged and matte finish of weathered metal. The final part of the system is to use dye oxides - super intense pigments that stain the metal. You can discover all the ins and outs of Swellegant from B'Sue Boutiques. Okay, in case you aren't picturing it - this is the magic of Swellegant! The piece on the left is an inexpensive pewter piece. The right is a copper patina treatment using the metal paints, patina and dyes. This is what the pieces look like with the metal coat in bronze. I did 3-4 coats before the final coat when you do the patina. You need to do the patina while the last coat of metal is still wet. We found that just dabbing the patina on in a juicy coat without brushing it on works best. It's more of a flooding it with dabs of the patina. Then you need to just hold your horses and wait at least an hour for the chemical reaction of the patina to take place. At first it doesn't look like it's working, but give it some time. And even then it doesn't look like much until you do the final two steps. And this is where we ran into a problem. Rosanne and I were expecting magical results, that we'd brush on the metal and patina and bam - it would be this awesome transformation in these vivid, bright colors. But here is the issue, Swellegant is fussy stuff. You need to do a little artsy-fartsy mojo to get the best results. And I'll share some of those tips below. Now if you aren't the artsy type, don't worry - with a little trial and error you can get it. And this is where things get really exciting - the colorful dyes. My favorite technique with the dyes is to add in a bit of the white dye on top of the color. I would paint on the dye, let it dry, add another color, dab a little here, a little there. After the dyes are dry you take a little bit of the metal paint on your finger (gloved, of course) and run it over the raised edges of the metal to add in some highlights. I really feel like this is the key to getting a good piece, it just makes everything sing. If you like instant gratification - this is not the coloring system for you. It takes a lot of back and forth to get good results, there is some serious wait time between coats and then after it's ALL said and done you need to wait 48-72 hours and apply a matte sealer. Is it worth it? During the process I was ready to say no, but after giving it some time and working at a little more - I couldn't be happier with the way they turned out. And now no piece of metal is safe in my house! Rosanne on the other hand felt it was too time intensive and didn't get consistent enough results. I will try to win her over again, probably at my retreat this fall because I am so using these in one of my classes! Oh and another tip - you can't mess it up, use light coats of paint each time to avoid losing details. But if you get to the end and hate your results, just hit it with another coat of metal and patina again to start over. Here are my results on various metals (mostly pewter) and polymer clay. Scroll down to the bottom for some of my formulas. Brass Patina Bronze Patina Ancient Bronze Patina Copper Patina Golden Patina Acid Green (These are Rosanne's pieces) Copper Acid Bath Rusted Iron Midsummer Night's Dream Patina Formulas The forumlas I used are listed in the order of application, be sure to read all directions and follow the steps correctly for best results. MC = Metal Coat, P = Patina, D=Dye-Oxide 1. Brass Patina - Brass (MC), Tiffany Blue (P), Aqua Green (D), White (D), Brass (MC) 2. Bronze Patina - Bronze (MC), Tiffany Blue (P), Aqua Green (D), White (D), Bronze (MC) 3. Ancient Bronze - Bronze (MC), Tiffany Blue (P), Aqua Green (D) repeat dye 2 x, Bronze (MC) 4. Copper Patina - Copper (MC), Tiffany Blue (P), Aqua Green (D) White (D), Copper (MC) 5. Golden Patina - Brass (MC) Green-Gold Verdigris (P), Aqua Green (D), White (D), Sun Yellow (D), Brass (MC) 6. Acid Green - Bronze (MC), Green-Gold Verdigris (P) 7. Copper Acid Bath - Copper (MC), Green-Gold Verdigris (P), Tangerine Orange (D), Chartreuse (D), White (D), Chartreuse (D), Copper (MC) 8. Rusted Iron - Iron (MC), Tiffany Blue (P), Blood Red (D), Silver (MC), Iron (MC) 9. Midsummer Night's Dream - Bronze (MC), Purple (D), Indigo (D), Purple (D), White (D) Bronze (MC), Brass (MC)

How to Create Blue Patina on Copper How do you create patina on copper? I am talking about the natural way, without harsh chemicals or fake paints. You may have seen natural patina on