Is professional bath tub refinishing worth it? In this review, I am sharing the pros and cons of painting a bathtub.
Reglazing and refinishing your old tiles is a better and cost effective option rather than replacing them. Contact Supreme Bath Refinishing.
Reglazing and refinishing your old tiles is a better and cost effective option rather than replacing them. Contact Supreme Bath Refinishing.
Reglazing and refinishing your old tiles is a better and cost effective option rather than replacing them. Contact Supreme Bath Refinishing.
Reglazing and refinishing your old tiles is a better and cost effective option rather than replacing them. Contact Supreme Bath Refinishing.
Use these simple tutorials for adding wall moulding and wall trim to make your home feel upscale and custom for the fraction of the cost of a professional.
Refinishing a bathtub is so much easier than I thought it would be. We first considered using a tub and tile kit to epoxy our rose-colored tub about 5 years ago when we bought a 1989 sprawling ranch home.
Learn how to paint like a pro and pick up some great tips for achieving a perfectly smooth and even paint job.
Favorite White Kitchen Cabinet Paint Colors: Pick the right white the first time! Check out these great go-to colors!
Refinished Cast Iron Antique French Lavabo Rounded Wall Mount Bath Sink Feu de Bois Brown Refinished in China White w/New Faucet The term "lavabo" translates to "I shall wash." These sinks have a fascinating history. Their original home was in churches, where they would be used to wash the priest's hands before delivering communion. This washing of the hands was symbolic of inner purity and was usually accompanied by the recitation of "I will wash my hands in innocence, so will I compass thine altar, O Lord". If you're looking for a cool bath sink, this is it. Such an interesting piece. It's been refinished in China White. The bottom is painted in a custom created brown that was inspired by Diptyque's Feu de Bois. This Original Cast Iron Bath Sink was professionally refinished by re in Crowley LA to achieve a porcelain like smooth easy to clean surface. The sink is in nearly new condition refinished to it's original beauty. Measurements Overall: -Width: 17.25 in -Length: 10.25 in -Height: 29 in Basin: -Width: 17.5 in -Length: 10.25 -Depth: 10 -Faucet: Elkay LK69C -Notables -Over the years some minor pitting (Very Slight) has occurred on the sink which is typical. -Overall the sink is near perfect -New Faucet and Drain on most sinks. If the sink is pictured with a faucet & drain, it comes with those items. About Our Resurfacing Process:To insure the best possible finish on your new vintage/antique fixture re only uses professional refinishing supplies from the leaders in the industry. All of our technicians are factory trained and certified. -Care & Maintenance Instructions -If you want to keep your refinished surface beautiful for years. Here's how: Do: -Clean regularly to prevent dirt and grease build-up. -Clean gently: warm water and liquid detergents such as Ivory or Dawn work well. -Other cleaners that will work well are: Dow Scrubbing Bubbles, Lysol Tub and Tile Cleaner, Lime Away Bathroom/Kitchen cleaner, and Mr. Clean. Don't: -Use steel wool or scrubbing pad for cleaning. -Allow drain opening chemicals, nail polish remover, bleach or other harsh products to touch the finish. -Use suction cup mats or similar products on the finish. -Allow leaky faucets to continue for long periods of time.
The ultimate DIY guide on how to sand wooden floors yourself and achieve a professional finish! Step by Step guide with tips, tricks & budget breakdown
Stop scrubbing your tile and grout and call Chem-Dry Carpet Tech. We'll clean and seal your tile, stone, and grout surfaces. (805) 244-8725
Crown moulding adds a beautiful finish to elegant rooms. To get this look you would simply hire a professional to figure out and install all of the complicated miter cuts.
The cost to refinish wood floors depends on several factors, but the average professionally completed refinishing job costs $3.32 to $3.70 per square foot.
Shower Tray Repair Kit, Hupeyna Tub, Tile and Shower Repair Kit, Bathtub Repair Kit White for Chips Dents Cracks Holes Scratchs, Bath Repair Kit - More Colour Choices Available Marble Repair Kit Description Versatile Bath Repair Kits. The tub repair kit has been tested and adjusted many times by professionals. Making the improved shower tray repair kit superbly capable of restoring your broken and worn bathtub to its former glory. The bathtub repair kit white can be used to repair chips, holes, scratches, pits, deep scratches, defects, cracks, dents and adhesive fragment. A Bath Crack Repair Kit Is A Must for Any Home. Our bath repair kits work well with any bathtub paint, making repairs and customisation easy. Whether you want to remedy your flaking acrylic and ceramic bath, enamel sink, or fibreglass tiles, our shower tray repair kits are the best choice. Our porcelain repair kits white save you the costly expense of a repair shop. Save time and effort when you let our porcelain sink repair kit take care of
Wondering how to paint a bathtub? Rather than replacing a dingy tub, you can learn to paint a bathtub—also known as refinishing—so it looks as good as new.
Which industry pros and readers did our readers love? View the winning projects.
Pin It I have had several people email me and ask me about my painted cabinets. So today I thought I would share with your how we painted ours so that YOU can paint your cabinets. But, I must first start off with a disclaimer. We are by NO means professionals. We asked our local
Professional painter Philip Hansell shares the products and methods he uses for tackling the toughest parts of the job.
Is this a busy time of year or what?!?! I feel like the two weeks before the kids get out of school, seems to be the craziest time. Your running around Christmas shopping, there are tons of school parties, and events. wrapping presents, cookie baking...the list goes on and on. I do love the hustle and bustle of it, though I wish it were a bit colder here, so it felt like the holidays. 72 degrees is a little warm for December! But that's Texas for ya. Today I wanted to share with you a How-To for glazing cabinets. I've talked about posting this for some time, just hadn't gotten around to getting the pictures taken. It takes twice as long to do a job like this, with a camera in your hand the whole time. So I hope this is helpful. And hey, what better season to give it a try...when the whole family is in town, all the kids are home tearing up the house, your baking cookies and giant meals!! Well, maybe not...Pin it and save it for later instead :) If you don't already know me, or follow my blog....I am a Faux Painter, I paint murals, faux finishes, and cabinets...lots of cabinets! So the work I show you on here, isn't something I just tried out and show you the steps... this is how I do it on a daily basis! Here are a few before and afters, so you can see what a difference it makes. These cabinets were already painted before I came in. They were just a stark basic white, and the walls around were a glazed stucco plaster look. The cabinets just stuck out like a sore thumb. This glazing technique, helps tone them down, and warm up the space. This process doesn't take a long time (even though it looks like it), and doesn't look super heavy, so it's good in most spaces. You can start with any color of base painted cabinets really. Just tweak the glaze to go with your space. Most pre-painted white cabinets are sprayed on, and that works well with the technique. But if you looking to start from scratch with yours, you can check out these blog posts on How-To Paint Cabinets Like A Pro, or How-To: Painting Laminated Cabinets. So to start, lets talk about what kind of glaze to use. If your cabinets are an oil base paint, you have to use and oil based glaze. Latex will not adhere to an oil based surface. If your unsure, always use an oil based glaze. Oil sticks to latex, but latex does not stick to oil!! If your cabinets are a builder grade laminate material, you can still do this technique just stick to the oil based glaze. I know alot of you up north unfortunately, can not get oil based paints...or you may just hate the smell of oil products, and turpentine. You can use latex here, but make sure you are putting it over a latex surface, if you are unsure, a fresh coat of oil primer, and a new coat of latex white will prep the surface for you. I use Sherwin Williams Oil-Based Faux Finish Glazing Liquid. They did stop carrying this for awhile, and it was very hard to come by, ( I bought a stock pile) but you should be able to find it in at least a quart size now. The material is pretty thick, so some paint thinner, or turpentine will help the flow of this glaze. As far as color goes, I just buy tint by the ounce from Sherwin Williams. If you are using the oil based glaze, make SURE you ask for the tints that work with oil. They carry two kinds. For this color I used some raw umber, and a hint of yellow and red. A TINY drop goes a long way. So start slow, and keep trying your color on a sample piece. For my brush, I used the cheapy $1 chip brushes. You don't want to have to go to the hassle of cleaning this out later. Chucking it the trash is much easier!! I work with one door at a time. Start at the top, so you don't brush up against wet cabinets. Try picking your smallest door to start with. I cover the whole front of the surface, don't worry or mess with the edges yet. The product can dry fast depending on the type of glaze, and your rooms conditions. So you will want to work fast here. Next I take a dry rag, and follow the pattern below, wiping most of the product back off. The more you wipe, the lighter the glaze will be. I start on the inside edges (1), and go all the way around. I usually take off more in this area, to give the appearance, that the crevasses is a deeper looking color. Next I wipe the center (2), of the door. Then, the top and bottom pieces (3), in the direction of the grain. And lastly, the sides (4), going all the way from top to bottom. Afterwards I run my rag all the way around the edges of the door, to clean of any heavy goop. It should look similar to the last picture when done. This pattern stays with the natural grain of how the cabinet is built, and will make your faux, look not so faux. Next, I take a very soft brush, (a Purdy is what I used here) and brush it softly out, in the same patterned you just wiped in. Don't worry about the unpainted cabinets next to you, they will wipe down easily later. Once the product starts to dry, you don't want to touch it again with the brush, it will pull off the paint. So make sure each area is as you want it before moving on the the next portion. The softer you press here, the less streaks you will have. You are going for a sort of grain direction in the pattern. If you are looking for a very light glaze, taking off most of the paint, and softening afterward should give you no streaks. Be sure when your getting the sides, you also run the brush around the outside edges as well. Once the door is done, clean up any areas that may have gotten painted in the process. The door on the left, is the only one painted here. You can see the difference in color. After each door is done, I prop it open, so not to get paint on it from a nearby door. If you are doing the back as well, this is the time to do it. Just remember to hold the door from the top (for upper cabinets), or from the bottom (on lower cabinets) when painting. I cant tell you how many times Iv'e made a whole painted hand-print on the front of a door I just painted by grabbing it. When working on the lower cabinets, I start with the doors, and the finish up with the drawers. I like to take them out completely when working on them, though it isn't always possible, like around sinks. The pattern here is similar. I start with the top and bottom (1), then the sides (2), then the front (3). The doors, and drawer on the left are finished. The ones on the right have not been painted yet. We were going for a bit of a heavier look here. But again, the more you take off, the lighter it will be. Here is how I prop the doors when finished. There is no need to remove doors for this process. It is actually much easier to work with them hanging. If you dont plan on painting the backs, it is much easier to wipe down the back side as well.. The next step I do, is darkening the creases. Not all doors or drawers will have these spaces. But If yours does, this is a super important step. It just accentuates the shape of the door. Make sure when you do this the door is dry, at least 24 hours. I've tried to rush it, and it isnt a pretty site...the words that come out of your mouth will not be pretty either! So just be patient! I just deepen the glaze I have already used, with a hint more brown, and a TINY bit of black. With a small brush, I run along the inside crease with a good amount of paint. Be liberal. Then with a dry rag, around one finger....and at a slight angle, I follow the raised edges, touching the flat surface with my nail. You don't need to press really hard, you just don't want to pull your finger to close to the inside crease, as this will take away too much of the paint. You will end up with a faded line, that is heavier on the inside, and fades out. The last part of the glazing technique is lining the edges. This may not seem like it is necessary, but this really makes the shape of the cabinet pop. Why go to all the trouble, and still loose the cabinet into the next. I use the same color from the crevasses. Coating both sides of the smaller chip brush, I scrap it all back off. You don't want any excess globbed on the brush. Just some of the color covering the base of the brush. Then I lightly, run it along the high edges of the each door. Use the middle, to the base of the brush here. The tip of the brush tends to fan out, and can leave little brush streaks on the door. I do the same thing to the outside of the door as well. Here, the door on the left has the edging in the middle only, and the door on the right has no edging. You can see what a difference it makes to the shape of each door, And here is the area complete. On any open shelving, or trim pieces...I follow the same steps, making any deep corners or crevasses darker with glaze. The final coat here is the sealer. Make sure that you have let the base glaze sit at least 24-48 hours before applying this. Do a test spot somewhere inconspicuous, as it can wipe off all of your hard work if it isn't dry enough. I usually do this step on the same day as the glazing of corners, and edging. It usually is dry enough, but try it out first. If you have the time....wait another day!! I use an oil base satin sealer when using oil based glaze, Minwax Wipe-On Poly. You can use this same brand but the latex version in satin if you are using a latex glaze (comes in a silver can just like this one). It's only about $10, and it goes pretty far. depending on what finish, and how many coats you want. I have tried TONS, of sealers. And this really is all I use. Now it can tend to yellow a bit over time, but on a glazed cabinet you should notice it. On top of a white based cabinet, you will see the yellowing! Don't brush this product on, infact don't use any kind of brushed sealer. It leaves streaks, and drips, and is always shinier than when you wipe it on. It's also loads easier to wipe on. I dump a good bit into a bucket, wad up a rag, and dip it in. You want it wet, just not dripping. WEAR GLOVES!!!! The blue nitrile gloves are the only kind you can use with this sealer!!!! Regular latex gloves will disintegrate in about 1 minute. I've used them, when it was all I had on hand, and the finger tips always fall off and get stuck to the door. This stuff is terrible to get of your hands, once it dries. With the saturated rag, you will basically just wipe it on. Make sure you follow the direction of the grain, or the same direction you brushed the glaze in. If you look at the piece your sealing from an angle, you will see the sheen, and will be able to see any areas you missed....they will look dry still. Two coats of this is really best, but you can do 3 for more durability. With the first coat, it can tend to look a bit spotty, or dryer in areas. With two coats you are sure to get an even looking surface. This will give you a nice satin, furniture looking finish So there you have it, just a few steps to beautifully glazed cabinets. I know it seems like alot, but after a door or two, you get the hang of it, and will blow right through the rest. Don't forget to Pin it, and save it for later! And as always, I'm happy to answer any questions!
Grasscloth Design #12948869 Natural woven grasscloth wallpaper with a slight luster for the ultimate in timeless elegance - paste required 12 inch vertical repeat of the design Roll dimension (installed): 24" W x 27' L Natural woven grasscloth wallpaper with a slight luster for the ultimate in timeless elegance - paste required 100% handcrafted natural sisal Subtle luster, natural white with unique variations and striations Recommended for lower traffic areas from dining rooms to accent walls Paste required and professional paper installer recommended Class A fire-rated Disclaimer: Grasscloth is a natural handcrafted wallpaper with unique variations and irregularities in texture, color, and weave, which is an inherent quality of this material. When installed, the seams between the panels of grasscloth will be visible. Variations in color between batches may occur due to the manufacturing process. This paper is not suitable for high moisture areas such as bathrooms with showers or bathtubs.
Make your whole project that much easier.
How do you get your furniture piece to end up looking professional and not a rushed DIY project? Here are a few steps you can take to create a smooth finish
Transform your bathroom from plain to posh with the Cheviot Regency 60 in. Double Slipper Cast Iron Clawfoot Tub. Elegant curves and classic design create the ultimate in bathing luxury and comfort. You can choose your lounging position in this double slipper tub, which has high backs on either end to support your head and neck while you enjoy a long, relaxing soak. Supported by sophisticated lion paw feet, this traditional cast iron tub has an Aztek Brick (burnt orange) exterior, and the interior is white porcelain enamel. The feet are offered in your choice of five finishes. Fixtures you'll need for your tub to function include a faucet, drain, and supply lines (not included) (not included). We recommend that a professional plumber or contractor installs your new tub and that you measure your space prior to purchasing to ensure a proper fit.Tips to Take Before Taking it Easy in Your Clawfoot or Freestanding TubWe know you're excited to transform your bathroom from dull to indulgent with the addition of a clawfoot tub or a freestanding tub, but please consider this important information before taking on your tub.We recommend having a professional plumber install your tub.Make sure your floor can support the weight of the tub, whether it's empty or full.Measure the doorway you'll take the tub through to get inside your house, and measure your stairwell and your bathroom doorway, too, to make sure the tub will fit. Remember that some tub feet are not removable.Get prepared with the right parts. You'll need some essentials to enjoy a proper clawfoot or freestanding tub experience. Keep in mind that parts such as the faucet, drain, supply lines, hand-held shower head, shower curtain, and shut-off valves are sold separately.While you can use universal parts for some tubs, you'll find that others require parts that are the same brand as the tub. All of your necessary tub parts are available for purchase here at ClawfootTubs.com.Have your plumber ensure that your tub is level. To prevent the tub from moving and to protect your floor, try placing coasters underneath the tub feet.After the tub is installed, see that your plumber turns the water on and makes sure everything works and drains properly.Now, don't forget the bubbles!About Cheviot Products Inc.Based out of Port Coquitlam – B.C. Canada, Cheviot Products Inc. is a leading supplier of claw foot bathtubs, cast iron bathtubs, bathroom fixtures, toilets, and sinks to major bathroom distributors and wholesalers that can be found nearly anywhere throughout the world. With design features based on styles from the Victorian era, Cheviot Products Inc. aims to provide quality products that suggest a traditional and classic appeal with modern concepts.
Rescue that tub! Save that sink! Fixing up your old bathroom fixtures can cost hundreds less than full-out replacing them, whether you do it yourself or hire a pro.
