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I've stuck to a simple and easy free sunburst granny square crochet pattern that is super fast to work up. It uses only basic stitche...

Have you ever wanted to learn how to needle-turn appliqué but didn't know where to start? Worried about how to turn different shapes/corners? Well have I got a shape for you! The Squircle! A squircle is an organic blend of a square and a circle - essentially a rounded corner square - that is meant to be free cut and h

Thanks so much for all the kind comments on my running in circles quilt. I had so much fun making it! It was great to start and finish a quilt in one fell swoop. It's been quite awhile since I did that. I took photos along the way so I could share a tutorial. This is June's free stash buster quilt pattern. I hope you enjoy it! Materials Needed: 40 pieces of fabric at least 9" x 19"-a total of 5 yards (I used 36 different fabrics) 60" x 74" batting 3 1/2 yards backing fabric 1/2 yard binding fabric Special Tools: Elisa's Backporch 7" crazy curve acrylic templates A and B. (they are sold as a set) Avaliable here or here. (Or else you can google it.) 28 mm rotary cutter-this is a must! It really helps you cut the inner curves with ease. Optional: rotating cutting mat Cutting: Fold each piece of fabric in half, so you can cut 2 layers of fabric at once. I wouldn't recommend cutting more than 2 layers at once, for accuracy sake. Layout your templates on the fabric and cut carefully! After cutting, you should have 2 pieces of the outside curve and 2 pieces of the inside curve. Cut a total of 80 pieces of each. Assembly: All seam allowances are 1/4" throughout. Take a piece of fabric from each pile and pair up ALL your fabrics before you sew. You don't have to do this, but it will help you avoid ending up with 2 pieces of the same fabric at the end. It will also help you avoid ending up with some unpleasant fabric combo in the end. I did a fair amount of matching and rematching before I sewed anything. I'm so glad I did! Take one pair of fabrics and fold each piece in half. Cut a very small notch in the inner center of each piece. This will show you where to pin. Match up the notches. Pin in the center. Put the smile piece on the top. :) Pin at the top and the bottom of the block. All you need is 3 pins per block. When pinning the top and the bottom, go up and down through the fabric twice. This helps keep the fabric in place much better than if you only put the pin through the fabric once. It's a little tip that yields great results. Try it! This is what it looks like when it is pinned. It looks pretty funky. But it WILL come together! Put the piece in your machine and sew slowly. Try to maintain an accurate 1/4" seam allowance. Pull any bulk up and away from you as you sew slowly. This little tip is key! This will help ease the curves together. Continue sewing slowly while matching up the edges of the curve as you go. Remove from your machine and check your work. It looks pretty good! It is a bit off on the bottom, but not too much. Definitely nothing to worry about. Don't iron anything yet! Sew all 80 pairs together first. Layout all the blocks and take a photo (or several), arranging the blocks until the colors are evenly distributed. Now it's time to iron! I started assembling the quilt from the bottom, so I took the two left blocks from the bottom row. For the block on the left, iron the seam toward the center. For the block on the right, iron the seam toward the outside. A few pressing tips: Do a quick press with the block upside down first. This allows you to see where you are ironing. This is helpful because sometimes the curve wants to flip in the middle of the seam. Then, flip the block over, so it's right side up. I found it very helpful at this point to do a quick spritz with some spray starch. Press again. Place the two blocks together and pin. Again, only 3 pins are needed. One at the top, one where the seams meet, and one at the bottom. Pin the one where the curved seams meet FIRST! The seams should be pressed in opposite directions, so they should nest together neatly. Starting to pin at the middle pin will help you get accurately pieced circles. If the ends are a bit off, don't worry. Those will be hidden in the seam allowances. If your ends are way off, you may consider doing some stitch ripping. Sew the two together, and press the seam to the right. Sew the remaining blocks in the bottom row in pairs, then sew the pairs together, until all the blocks in the row are joined. Press all seams to the right. The bottom row should be complete! For the next row up, press the seams in the opposite directions. So, for the first two blocks in this row: The first block's curved seam will be pressed toward the outside of the block. The second block's curved seam will be pressed toward the center. After joining those two blocks, the seams will be pressed to the left. The diagram below will help explain what I mean. The goal is to get all the seams in the two rows pressed in opposite directions so the seams will nest and lay flat when sewn together and pressed. It looks complicated, but really, it's not so bad! Now that the bottom two rows are assembled, it's time to pin. Again. Pin at each seam intersection, for accuracy sake. I had a little bubble in this block, so I pinned in the middle of the curved piece. It will help me ease the bulk evenly in the space. If there aren't any bubbles, pinning in the middle isn't really necessary. Sew and press. Then admire your work! It's so fun to see the circles come together. Repeat these steps for the remaining rows. Once the pairs of rows are together (there are 5), sew together and the quilt top is complete! The quilt top measures 56" x 70". Baste, quilt, bind and snuggle! You can see the completed quilt here. I really, really hope that I've taken the fear out of piecing curves, because it's not that hard. I hope you try it and have fun with it! A huge thank you to my neighbor Marcia, for letting me use her templates AND for taking the time to teach me this method. Plus, she was kind enough to let me share all her handy dandy tips with all of you. Thanks Marcia! Disclaimer: I realize that there are special curved piecing feet for your sewing machine. (Haven't tried them.) I also realize that there are no pinning methods. (I tried one method and hated it.) This is simply one way to piece curves, but it's worked for me beautifully. So, while this isn't the ONLY way to do it, it is the method that I would recommend. At least at this point in time. :) If you use this tutorial to make a quilt, I'd love to see it! Happy Monday to you!

Adding rounded corners to your quilt is quick, simple and adds another point of difference. Read on how on to round out your corners.

This circle to square granny square is a fresh take on the classic granny square which results in a more modern flair to a cherished classic.

Today’s square: Begonia Size: 7 inch Pattern By: Jan Eaton Hook: H Yarn: RHSS hot pink, eggnog; TLC Essentials Lt. Celery. Pattern from: Ravelry Notes: Another cute square from the 200 Croche…

CIRCLE TO SQUARE: Blocked its approx 15-16" square ADDING CORNERS You now have the correct number of sts to divide the circles into 4 sections 4 x 36sts, using stitch markers. 4 colours requires for each circle, each corner in a different colour Add a 4 round granny shell corner to the 4 corner of each circle. You will use 25sts, of the 36sts. Leaving 11sts, unused EACH SIDE. NOTES: These corners are like making the start of a Granny Shell Shawl, you need the ch1 between the granny shells for ease, because it is to go around the curve of the circle. And you need to do a longer st as the first st for each granny shell next to the circle, again for ease, (thats just the first st not the complete granny shell). PREPARING CENTRE CIRCLE FOR CORNERS ROW 1: att yarn in ch3 sp of the first diamond, hdc [htr], in the next 5sts, hdc [htr], in the next 3 sps, (that's the ch3 sp of the triangle), the next ch3 sp, (the diamond) and the ch3 sp of the next triangle making 8sts for each pair of diamond and triangle. repeat hdc [htr], in next 5 sts, and the next 3 x ch3 sps, to the end, sl st to complete. (144sts) Starting at the marker Row 1: att. yarn 3sts from marker, miss 2sts, 1tr [1dtr], 2dc, [2tr], ch2, 2dc [2tr], 1tr [1dtr], in marked st, miss 2sts, sl st into next st, ch3, miss 2sts, sl st into next st, along, turn. (2 granny shells) Row 2: 2dc [2tr], into the sp, between circle and tr, [dtr] of round 1, ch1, 3dc [3tr], ch2, 3dc [3tr], into the next ch2 sp, (point of triangle), ch1, 2dc [2tr], 1tr [1dtr] into the last sp (between the last granny shell and the circle), miss 2sts, sl st into next st (7sts from the marker), ch3, miss 2sts, sl st into next st, along, turn. (4 granny shells) Row 3: 2dc [2tr] into first sp, between circle and granny shell or row below, ch1, 3dc [3tr], into next ch1 sp, ch1, 3dc [3tr], ch2, 3dc [3tr] into next ch2 sp (point of triangle), ch1, 3dc [3tr] into next ch1 sp, ch1, 2dc [2tr], 1tr [1dtr], into last sp, (between circle and granny triangle), miss 2sts, sl st into next st, (10th st, from marker) ch3, miss 2sts, sl st into next st, turn.(6 granny shells) Row 4: Repeat row 3, with the extra side granny shell sl st to complete, cut and weave in ends (8 granny shells) Repeat for each corner all in a different colour Marked st is number 1, so you should finish on the 13th st from the marker each side Leaving 11sts unused on each side

Mandalas and how to turn them into a square....By adding granny corners True Meaning of Mandala far more than just a circle! Always lots of new stitch combinations to use in the round.... Fair Isle Mandala above.....can be made into a cushion or place mats works a treat.. MANDALA TO MAKE PATTERN: Limited edition or your own selection of dk 4mm hook US Terms in black, UK Terms in red brackets Change colour every round Finger was of 10 wraps for padding. Round 1: 12dc [12tr], into circle, sl st to complete. Round 2: 2sc [2dc], in every st, sl st to complete. Round 3: (4tr [4dtr], clusters over 2 sts), 2tr [2dtr], in the first 2sts, clustered tog, ch3, repeat for all petals, sl st to complete, repeat for 12 petals Round 4: 4dc [4tr], in each ch3 sp, sl st to complete. Round 5:start in the first dc [tr], of a group of 4, dc [tr], in each st, ch5, dc [tr], in next set of 4dc [tr], ch5, repeat to end, sl st to complete. Round 6: att. yarn in middle sp, of 4dc [4tr], 4dc [4tr], ch3, 4dc [4tr] in next ch5 loop, sc [dc] in middle sp, of next 4dc [4tr], repeat to end, sl st to complete Round 7: att. yarn in any point, sc [dc], in ch3 point, 5dtr [5ttr] into sc at dip, sc into point, repeat to end, els st to complete. Round 8: att. yarn in the 3rd of the 5dtr [5ttr], dc [tr], ch2, dc [tr], dc [tr], in next 2sts, dc [tr] spike st into point of round 5, dc [tr], in next 2 sts, repeat to end, sl st to complete. Round 9: att yarn in ch2 point, 2dc [2tr], ch3 2dc [2tr], in point, dc [tr], in next 3sts, miss a st (dip), dc [tr], in next 3 sts, repeat to end, sl st to complete. Round 10: att. yarn in point, 2dc [2tr], ch3, 2dc [2tr], in point, dc [tr], in next 4 sts, miss 2sts, dc [tr], in next 4sts, repeat for all points, sl st to complete. Round 11: att. yarn in point, 2dc [2tr], ch3, 2dc [2tr], dc [tr], in next 5sts, miss 2sts, dc [tr], in next 5sts, repeat for all points, sl st to complete. Round 12: att. yarn in point, 2sc [2dc], ch3, 2sc [2dc], sc [dc] in next 7sts, ch 9, sc [dc], in next 7sts, repeat for all sides, sl st to complete. Note: last round optional if you want to join the motifs together and make a throw you can use this round with the extra joining loops How to turn a large circle or Mandala with a solid stitch edge, into a square using Granny Square corners GRANNY SQUARE CORNER PATTERN TO MAKE A LARGE CIRCLE INTO A SQUARE NOTE: To see how many rows of granny shells you need to add to create each corner place Place your circular motif onto a basic granny square made in the same yarn as the motif to give you an idea of what needs to be added. Divide the circle into 8ths and mark with a length of yarn It's not an exact science but it will give you an idea of what you need to add to the corner markers 4 times. looking at the picture the first row of granny shells need to cover about 6 sts either side of the marker. ROW1: Att. yarn 3 sts away from the corner marker, miss 2sts, 3dc, ch3, 3dc in the corner marker, pulling out the marker. miss 2sts, sl st, into next st. ROW 2: ch 3, miss 2sts, sl st into next st, turn, 2dc into sp between circle and last dc of row1. 3dc, ch3, 3dc into point of corner, 3dc in the sp between the circle and the first dc of row1, miss 2 sts, sl st,into next st. ROW 3: ch3, miss 2sts, sl st into next st, turn, tr,2dc into sp, between circle and last dc, of row 2, 3dc, in next sp, 3dc, ch3, 3dc in point, 3dc into next sp, 2dc,1tr into sp, between circle and first dc of row 2, miss 2sts, sl st into next st. ROW4: ch3, miss 2sts, sl st into next st, HERE YOU SHOULD BE 3STS FROM SIDE MARKER Turn, tr, 2dc into sp between circle and last tr of row 3, 3dc in next 2 sps, 3dc,3ch,3dc in point, 3dc in next 2 sps, 2dc,1tr in sp, between circle and first dc of row 3.miss two sts, sl st into next st. This completes the corner. HERE YOU SHOULD BE 3STS FROM SIDE MARKER. The corners were added to a circle of 9.5" and a corner of 30sts total number of sts was 120 all the way around Repeat for the next 3 corners. The next round will be all the way around the now GRANNY SQUARE with a mandala in the middle. This should work on similar circles of similar size, with a few sts or half an inch of diameter more. If you have a lot bigger circle then add as many granny row corners as you need using the pattern. If you love to make mandalas or circles but don't know what to do with them make a square and join together in blocks

The key to a perfect granny square is blocking. Learn how to block granny squares in this beginner-friendly step-by-step guide.

I've been getting so much great feedback about the border I've been crocheting onto my Puppy C2C Blanket that I thought I would make a separate post to walk you through it. I am using a modified version of the Block Stitch with HDC stitches. It works great as a border on C2C blankets but

Edited pattern as follows: Changed round 1 to help this block lay flat: substituted 16 dc’s for the 16 tr’s Changed round 9 to make the block more square: instead of 3 dc’s in corner, work (2dc,...

Worked in treble crochets from the corner out: The square was worked from a chart found here: http://crochet-story.ru/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/vjazanie-kvadrata-krjuchkom-shema.jpg The pattern part is in a foreign language but the chart is easy enough to understand.......

instructions are for the easiest & most consistent One colour Granny Square that I know &, although there are many variations, this is the one I use because I know my squares will be square & the corners open & even &, no matter how many rounds are I work, the square stays flat without ruffling or pulling in

It's wonderful to see all the projects and art class lessons this tutorial has inspired. Please keep sharing photos of your artworks with me (my email address is in my blogger profile) - I love seeing them! If you share images online, please acknowledge me as the original artist and share a link to my blog. Unfortunately, I do need to remind readers that the original "Tree and Stars" painting is protected by copyright (as are all my images), which means that the use of this tutorial to create artwork or craft projects for exhibition or sale, or to create art class lessons for profit, is not allowed without my consent. Please don't hesitate to contact me if you have any questions about the appropriate use of my images. If you are interested in discussing a licensing agreement to create a commercial product, send me an email or Facebook message and we can discuss it. Thank you! I've been thinking a lot lately about the importance of dropping keys (even when we don't think we have any to drop - but that's another post) and about the lovely, generous souls who share the tutorials I appreciate so much. So... I thought it would be fun to post a step-by-step of my own. There's nothing new or ground-breaking here, but I've had a few enquiries about how they are made and thought it would be fun to share. I spent a couple of pleasant days painting on my verandah recently, creating this work for a group exhibition, and decided to document the process as I went.  1. First I draw my image, and colour it in with oil pastels. My favourites are Caran d'Ache neopastels, because they're beautifully soft and pigment rich, but there are many other great brands available. The bits that will be painted in acrylics later I leave bare, because acrylic over oil pastel is against all the rules, and well... just doesn't work too well. 2. Here's a close-up. The initial colouring in isn't very neat, but that doesn't matter.  3. I use an embossing tool (or the pointy end of a knitting needle when I can't find the embossing tool!) to scratch into the oil pastel. I wipe the excess off the end of the tool as I go. 4. Ahhh... lovely texture :) 5. And again... just because. 6. I make up a very watery watercolour mix. My favourites are these Winsor & Newton ones, and as you can see I'm nearly out of the dark brown I like best. 7. Sometimes I add a tiny bit of tube watercolour, because it seems to have more "stickability". 8. I smother everything in a wash of watercolour. Remember doing these kind of paintings at school? Lots of fun! 9. I pat away the excess paint. Sometimes I do this step a few times to get the look I'm after. Some of the watercolour soaks into the oil pastel, and even though the colours stay bright, they're also nicely grungy. 10. I paint the background of the trunk and branches in acrylic. 11. A second layer is added to create the "bark". These concentric patterns are fiddly, but also strangely relaxing! 12. Finished! I now break that rule of no water based mediums over oil based ones, by adding the gold "lights" and the circles around them over the top of the oil pastel background. It works fine in tiny areas, as I finish the piece off with several coats of spray matte picture varnish to protect it. For works on canvas - heaps of coats are needed.  Tree and Stars © Loretta Grayson 2011 Prints of this artwork and others in this style are available in my Etsy shop!

Good morning! I am very happy today because I am up to date with my Crochet Mood blanket 2014. I was a little behind with March’s squares but I finally catch up and joined them yesterday eve …

Continuous Join-as-you-go (CJAYG) *Again!* The tutorial has moved! Click here to see it’s new home. Are you arriving here from Pinterest? That’s because this blog post is viral on that …

instructions are for the easiest & most consistent One colour Granny Square that I know &, although there are many variations, this is the one I use because I know my squares will be square & the corners open & even &, no matter how many rounds are I work, the square stays flat without ruffling or pulling in

A squircle is an intermediate shape between a square and a circle, present in web design, as well as products old, new, and all things Apple.

Do you love Corner to Corner Crochet? C2C worked in the round is game changing, so let's learn how to Corner to Corner Crochet in Rounds!

c2c crochet square. A cosy corner to corner crochet project. c2c crochet squares which are edged to make them into crochet blocks.

Hello lovely people, I have another tutorial for you today. This week I will be showing you how to make solid triangles. You might think a...

instructions are for the easiest & most consistent One colour Granny Square that I know &, although there are many variations, this is the one I use because I know my squares will be square & the corners open & even &, no matter how many rounds are I work, the square stays flat without ruffling or pulling in

Everyone loves a granny square and there are many different ways to make them and many tutorials available on the web. This tutorial part...

Adding rounded corners to your quilt is quick, simple and adds another point of difference. Read on how on to round out your corners.

This circle to square granny square is a fresh take on the classic granny square which results in a more modern flair to a cherished classic.

What is a knitter’s envy and every crocheter’s pride? You guessed it, the Granny Square! Addictive, colorful, quick, super-easy, chic and versatile, no one knows why it’s called a…

This page provides details on how I make granny hexagons, half hexagons and quarter hexagons.

Postage Stamp Block Pattern This is the block I am using for my version of Bear’s Rainbow Blanket, which is the blanket in the Scrappy Crochet-Along. Mary from Crafty Goodness Crochet and I a…

When I finished my picture made by granny squares with daisies I had a few squares left over. BTW – thank you so much for the attention it received! Amazing! :) As you know by now, I love hea…

Squaring the circle is loads of fun in crochet. This tutorial shows you how to square off a 3 round crocheted circle.

Johnny Round the Corner Quilt Block | Baseball is right up there with Quilting when it comes to American pasttimes and pursuits. The Johnny Round the Corner Quilt Block was named as a nod to

This circle to square granny square is a fresh take on the classic granny square which results in a more modern flair to a cherished classic.

I've stuck to a simple and easy free sunburst granny square crochet pattern that is super fast to work up. It uses only basic stitche...

This circle to square granny square is a fresh take on the classic granny square which results in a more modern flair to a cherished classic.