Una raccolta dei siti web più ricchi e completi dove scaricare cartamodelli gratis in pdf da stampare per creare da sole il proprio guardaroba.
Sartoria Pino Peluso - Napoli
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Ester Manas Fall 2024 Ready-to-Wear collection, runway looks, beauty, models, and reviews.
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A blog about sewing unique clothing from thrifted sheets, geeky crafts, and cats.
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There’s nothing more coveted to a fashion girl than sporting pieces from up-and-coming designers ahead of the masses. Of course prized labels like Saint Laurent, Gucci, Versace and the like will always have their place, but there’s always room for a…
At The SCA 50 Year War, a couple of women from Drachenwald (Sweden) were wearing Landsknecht Short Hosen. Several ladies here in Meridies (Tennessee/Alabama/Georgia) expressed an interest in makin…
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Buongiorno a tutti, in allegato le indicazioni per modificare l'abito base per ottenere un corpetto semplice. Per chi non lo conoscesse ancora è un ottimo manuale con testi italiano/inglese
{ Images : Haider Ackermann } Ive made a few of these scarf collar tops in my time & I really love how versatile they are for summer or winter. Drape a low back & a full-on front & you …
Buongiorno, a gentile richiesta ho caricato la base del pantalone classico femminile spero vi possa essere utile. Dovrete prendere le seguenti misure: Circonferenza vita passare il centimetro all'altezza dell'ombelico Circonferenza bacino passare il centimetro all'altezza del punto più sporgente Lunghezza pantalone dall'anca al fondo lunghezza desiderata Altezza ginocchio dall'anca al centro della rotula Altezza cavallo far sedere la persona e misurare dall'anca alla sedia Buon lavoro!.
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En este tutorial vamos a preparar las partes de la chaqueta, armar los bolsillos y ensamblar el cuerpo. Esta prenda es el mejor ejemplo de que la sastrería solo necesita prolijidad (y saber algunos…
Il segreto su come DISEGNARE una scollatura perfetta modificando il cartamodello del corpino base, facendo in modo che non sbocchino e aderiscano perfette.
It took me some time to find a pattern I wanted and could sew with the fabric I had. As this fabric was bought with the intention of sewing a Chanel style jacket I had only about two meters of fabric. Think it was a remnant piece as there were strange cut offs on both sides, probably for samples. Having two meters to sew a coat is not much, to say the least. My choice of patterns was very limited and I settled for this Lekala pattern. I will try to find an accent fabric for the belt/closing and if I can’t find it, I might skip that detail and sew buttonholes. I’m also thinking of adding pockets. A coat without pockets isn’t very good, don’t you think? After roughly cutting the fabric pieces I block-fused them with a thin fusible interfacing. This I bought at the English couture company in the UK. (I used to buy most of my interfacing at Fashion Sewing supply from Pam Erny, but as they don’t ship internationally anymore I had to find another resource and this is certainly a good one. Great quality too). The interfacing gives more stability to the fabric and keeps it from ravelling. From that point I treat the fabric as the base fabric, meaning that I still added interfacing as I would for any jacket or coat that I did not block fuse with thin interfacing first. A back stay is added. The darts are pressed in the opposite direction from the darts of the main fabric. It could be better to stitch the seams with a catch stitch to keep them down. Something for another evening. A walking foot is almost a must to keep the lines matching.
If you want to sew a sleeveless dress or blouse, you'll want to know how to sew an all-in-one facing. Learn two methods in this video.
Graham Browne: Neapolitan lining
Sewing for friends. CRISTINA wears a tailored tuxedo suit at the annual PASSEJADA AMB BARRET held in Barcelona's downtown on April 14, 2018. Photo by STEPHEN WHITWELL. Although it is a daytime event, it was intended to bring the elegance of the "black tie" to the celebration. So it's actually a three-piece SUIT consisting of a jacket, pants and vest, and also a cotton shirt with classic wing collar topped with a black silk bow tie also made for the purpose. Some references here, here and here. The beginning. Choosing fabrics, matching textures, sewing and ironing tests, this is essential for a perfect garment. The jacket is classic single-breasted and has a DOUBLE WELT POCKET, side panel, and two-piece sleeve. It has been made in BARATHEA (Grain de poudre), wool fabric from ELPON, and lined with viscose twill. Contrast PEAK LAPEL in black silk satin duchesse from MARCO PASCALI. Trousers are straight with IN-SEAM POCKETS, shaped waistband and side trimming (Formal pants should always have a grosgrain, silk or satin trim down the leg. "Bona fide fancy braiding" is the real classic). The vest is a classic not-lapel WAISTCOAT, made in the same fabric as the suit with a center front three-button closure. The shirt is also the classic DRESS SHIRT with winged collar, long sleeves with French cuffs, made of white shirting cotton fabric. Small antique buttons of black wood and made to measure bow tie in black silk satin duchesse. /------------------------------------------/ Sewing. A traditional tailoring contruction process has been followed for all garments. Some references here and here. Padding the chest of a jacket. Pad stitches are a type of running stitch made by placing small stitches perpendicular to the line of stitching. Pad stitches secure two or more layers of fabric together and give the layers more firmness; smaller and denser stitches create more firmness. They may also be used to enforce an overall curvature of the layers (WIKIPEDIA).
This tutorial explains how to sew a two-piece sleeve vent on a lined tailored jacket, just like this: This is the method you will often find in ready-to-wear, where the vent on the shell is first c…
Les digo la verdad. Comenzó como un experimento hecho con tela que me sobró de una cortina y terminó siendo la prenda más linda que cosí en los últimos meses. Conclusión: esta manga es fácil y qued…
The Rundschau System for Cutting Ladies' Coats - posted in Womens Cutter and Tailor: This translation has been two years in the planning. It has taken about nine months of persistent hard work to finally bring this project to fruition. For a start I would like to thank Posaune and her friends for helping with this monumental translation. The text comes from the 1960s Der Zuschnitt XVIIth edition from Rundschau. As usual, please keep in mind that this version of the Rundschau cutting sy...
The suit that I most recently dissected came with a pair of "pents" (as the Italians refer to them) made by another maker, this one even m...
After nearly sewing all day on Saturday and in bits and pieces on Sunday, I (surprisingly) finished all of my hand sewing/tailoring on my Gertie Coat (aka B5824). What’s even better is that I’m nearly caught up to where Gertie is in her sew-along even though I added all of this additional tailoring work! :) This was aContinue reading
As promised here are some photos showing the work on the inside of the jacket. The Singer tailoring book I referred to is really well written, with 3 different options for tailoring a jacket; Custom tailoring (lots of hand padstitching etc.) Machine tailoring (using a machine to do padstitching) Speed (or fusible) tailoring (using fusible interfacings) I'm sure it will come as no surprise that I used the method with the word "speed" in it! In addition to the book and DVD I already mentioned in my last post some other great resources are; Sherry's RTW tailoring sew along Sewing tutorials site (a collection of tutorials from various bloggers helpfully put in one place by Sigrid) Here is the front (fully fused) and side front (partially fused) with the fused chest piece below the shoulder. I think next time I would fuse the whole side piece and make the chest piece a bit larger, particularly with the weight of this fabric & the pocket I just think both these areas could do with a bit more support. The back piece, upper back is interfaced and fusible bias stay tape applied to the neck and armscyes. Bound buttonhole (on the left) and the window in the front facing. Inside view of the above, I used a bias piece of lining on the buttonhole window, organza would be better but lining works. (There are some great tutorials for bound buttonholes in the sewing tutorials link above if you don't have the Singer Tailoring book). Here is the whole inside jacket before the lining went in. I finished the pockets and the collar before sewing the side seams and then setting in the sleeves - it is much easier to work in the flat and also you can fine tune the fit. This jacket also had back darts and I left those pinned until I was ready to finish the side seams too for the same fitting reasons. Here is a closer look at the shoulder and sleeve. Instead of a sleeve head I bind the top of the armscye with a strip of fleece, it serves the same purpose (I think) and gives a nice rounded finish. I'm not sure if this is a standard method, it's something I picked up from the English Couture Company course and DVD. At this stage the shoulder pad was just tacked at the shoulder seam, but I also tacked it about 2/3 of the way down each side. I don't have photos, but the hem was also fused from the bottom of the jacket to just above the finished hem, which was handstitched, as were the sleeve hems. I separately assembled the lining and then machined it to the front and back facings. I then finished attaching it at the hems (jacket and sleeves) by hand, I never enjoy this part but I find I have a lot more control than when I try to do a fully bagged lining by machine. Something to work on next time!
A lot of work goes into a tailored collar in order for it to stand nicely in the back and roll beautifully across the shoulders. You can’t quite see it in this photo, but the inside of Michelle’s collar is pad-stitched by hand. Pad-stitching is a fairly complicated technique used in tailored garments which attaches […]
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