These three ways to attach lace to fabric are from the Edwardian era. In the 1900s, lace was attached to fabric either by hand or with a straight stitch sewing machine. Zig-zag stitches were never to sew lace to fabric in the Edwardian era. Related: How To Make Edwardian Net Applique 3 Ways How To … Continue reading 3 Ways How To Attach Lace To Fabric – Historical Sewing →

Lace tutorials, terminology, info on lace seams and finishes, embellishments with lace, heirloom sewing, patterns and project using lace

Learn all about how to sew lace to make beautiful handmade clothing. These sewing tips work for sewing and altering lace dresses.

http://www.joggles.com/ has 2 video tutorials on painting lace with Dynaflow and one other paint that I didn't have. I've painted lace with the dyes for that, but with paint you don't have to worry about the type of lace. It seems to work on anything. Each day I would do a covered board of one color group to see what would happen. A friend gave me some laces; some I bought; and some are leftovers from when my adult daughter was little, and I was putting them on dresses I sewed for her. This is very adictive. Now I need to think of way to use them.

This book is packed full of great info! Singer® The Complete Photo Guide to Sewing - Revised and Updated Edition 1200 Full-Color How-To Photos The Complete Photo Guide to Sewing – Revised and Updated Edition is the one reference every...

These stays are certainly the most complex cording project I've done, so I wanted to share how I've been going about it! First off, I'm using a totally different cording method than the ones shown in my Making a Corded Petticoat post. In both methods shown in that tutorial, the cord was put in place first and its channel was sewn around it. Those methods work just fine for a corded petticoat, but won't work very well for these stays. Instead, I'm sewing channels into the fabric first, then inserting the cording afterwards. As a reminder, this is the pattern I'm working with: Fabric Prep Since the criss-cross cording is the most difficult part of these stays, that's what we'll focus on. Each of the squares that make up the criss-cross pattern are only 0.25" wide, so they're very small and difficult to sew accurately. The space between each square forms the channel that the cord threads through. I'm using a green shot cotton as the pretty outer fashion layer of the stays, with two layers of thin but tightly woven white cotton as the strength layers. My stitches will go through all three layers of fabric, but the cording will be run between the two white layers of cotton. The first challenge was figuring out how to mark the stitching guidelines on the fabric. I could have made all the markings on the back of each piece, but I find that the top side of my stitching often looks a bit more precise than the back, so I needed a way to mark the green fabric so that I could stitch accurately, but not have the markings visible later. Squares marked with water soluble pen, with a penny for scale. At first I tried using a water soluble fabric marker that had a relatively fine tip. It showed up very well on the fabric, but since it is a marker and the fabric wicked the ink out a bit, the line it left was fairly thick. The thicker line made it very hard to see where exactly to stitch. Some of my test squares were more parallelogram than square, and the width of the squares varied between 5/16" and 3/16" wide. It may seem like I'm being overly picky, but that is a difference of 1/8", which means I was off in some areas by the width of half of a square! When working at such a small scale, even a little bit of deviation becomes extremely obvious. Wibbly wobbly stitching due to wide fabric marker guidelines. I considered using a fine mechanical pencil to draw more precise, accurate lines, but there were two potential issues. One, I was worried it wouldn't wash off well, leaving me with pencil lines all over my stays. Two, it's actually pretty hard to draw an accurate line on this fabric with a mechanical pencil, as the pressure of the lead warps and distorts the fabric as you're trying to draw. Can't draw a straight line b/c the pressure of the lead warps the fabric. Luckily, I was able to solve both issues at once with my favorite secret weapon: Mah super-sekrit weapon. Shh, don't tell! Starch has saved my butt on many a sewing project. Here, it serves two purposes. First, it stiffens the fabric so that it is almost paper-like, so now I can easily draw on it using the mechanical pencil without the fabric distorting. Now I can get perfectly straight, thin, highly accurate stitching lines! With starched fabric, no distortion! Comparison of marker lines vs mechanical pencil lines. Second, thanks to Lifeofglamour's various experiments with tinting starch for use on ruffs, I know that very often, pigments and dirt that are mixed in with or sitting on top of starch wash out without staining the fabric. When I tested this theory on my fabric, washing the starch out washed the pencil marks down the drain too! You can buy spray on starch or the liquid kind you dip your fabric into from the store, but thanks to Frolicking Frocks (dude, check out those petticoats!) I'm a convert to making my own out of cornstarch. My test stitching proves much more straight and accurate with the pencil guidelines, and after washing all evidence of the pencil lead is gone! Now that I've got that settled, the last step before stitching is to use a lightbox to trace my design onto the fabric. Stitching My original plan was to hand-stitch the stays, but I came to my senses after attempting a sample. I tried using my modern sewing machine, but it's very hard to stitch a line precisely 0.25" and stop in exactly the right place using the pedal control, so I pulled out the little Singer 99 hand crank machine I refurbished a few years ago instead. Remember this one? Isn't she pretty? With a hand crank, it's really easy to stop right at the exact number of stitches you want. A lot of fiddling and several tests later, I settled on a stitch length calibrated to precisely 1/16 of an inch, giving me squares that were 4 stitches wide on each side. Getting the correct stitch size is no mean feat on these old machines, since you set the length by screwing an unlabeled knob in or out as needed. That knob is the stitch length regulator. Notice the distinct lack of numbers or any useful markings of any sort? Now that I've got the length set, sewing each square is now as easy as starting the needle in the right place, sewing 4 stitches, sinking the needle on the 4th stitch, raising the presser foot, turning the fabric, putting the foot down again, sewing 4 more stitches, etc, all the way around the square. This leaves a bunch of thread tails all over the place. Of course I can't just trim them because the stitching would come out, so the loose threads are pulled to the back and tied off. Since I'm a bit paranoid about the knots coming undone, I put a dot of Fray-Check on each to prevent unraveling. Remember to test the Fray-Check on an inconspicuous spot first! My layers are thin, and on the first few knots I used too much and it soaked through to the front. Threads pulled to the back for tying. At first I was tying the threads after each square, but it's more efficient to sew several squares, then flip to the back and start pulling through/tying off. The problem with doing it that way is that those loose tails get in the way of stitching, and if you sew through the tail of a square a few rows down it's a mess to untangle. Luckily, I'm owned by two exceedingly furry felines, and thus have a clothing de-furring brush that doubles as a way to clear all my loose threads off to one side with a single swipe. Guess the fuzzbeasts are good for something. There's something like 200 tiny squares on just ONE front panel, plus more on each side panel, so you can see why this has been taking me a while! Cording After washing the starch out, drying, and pressing each piece, it's FINALLY time to stuff some cord in there. I'm using the same Sugar n' Cream cotton cord that I used in my corded petticoat. You'll want a cord of a width that fits fairly snugly in your channels, so choose accordingly, or stitch your channels to accommodate the cord you wish to use. I'm using a thick, blunt needle with a wide eye. Tapestry needles are perfect. The eye should be large enough that the cord just fits through it, but not so big that the needle won't fit through your channels with the now doubled cord in tow. I also have a pair needle nose pliers, because despite my best efforts, the eye of my needle still gets stuck in the fabric sometimes. When I made my last pair of corded stays, I broke the only good needle I had and swapped to one that was nearly the same, only sharp instead of blunt. It sorta worked, but the sharp tip kept shredding the fabric on both sides, and those scrapes later unraveled into larger holes, allowing the cord to poke out. I wouldn't have minded if they were all on the inside, but most of them were on the pretty outside! If all you can get is a sharp needle, grind the tip down. Holes in channels caused by sharp needle shredding fabric. Sadly, these are on the front, so they show when I wear it. On the backside of the stays, I poke the needle through just one layer of fabric right at the start of a channel. Since the needle is blunt, with some fabrics an awl is needed to start the hole. It takes a bit of practice to get the tip to go through just one layer of fabric, but practice makes perfect, right? Using an awl to start the hole. Threading the needle into the channel. Once inside, the needle is pushed down the length of the channel, dragging the cord behind it. It's tight, and I have to moosh (super technical term) and manipulate the fabric around the needle to move it along. Sometimes the pliers are necessary to pull the needle through the channel too. The eye is stuck at the entry to the channel, so I use pliers to help it along. At the opposite end, I poke the tip of the needle back out through the back fabric and pull it out, taking care to not pull all the cording out with it! The pliers are also super useful here, as the eye of the needle generally gets stuck on the way out. All the pushing and pulling on the needle is pretty rough on my fingers; using the pliers instead solves that problem. The downside is that I'm more likely to break a needle when pulling on it with the pliers. It's easier on my fingers to just use the pliers to pull the needle out. I don't trim the cord close to the fabric just yet; instead I cut it so there's about 1" still hanging out, then move on to the other channels. The places where the cords cross are a bit tricky to get through, but it's doable. Eventually I end up with a small forest of cord ends growing out of the back of the stays. Well that's a right mess. Once I've got a whole section done, I start trimming the stray tails. I cut the cord pretty close to the fabric, but not right flush with it. There are till some tiny tails hanging out. Trimmed close, with just a little bit hanging out. Then, without holding onto the cord, I tug on both ends of the channel, stretching the fabric slightly. Most of the tails pop back into their holes and disappear. A few are still sticking out a bit, but this is the inside of the garment, so I don't care overmuch. Gently stretching each channel. There are still holes at the start and end of each channel, but again, it's the inside, and they close up a little with time anyways. No more tails! Wow, that got lengthy! If any part of this tutorial isn't clear, let me know and I'll try to unmuddy it a bit. If you've got a cool cording project you're working on, show us in the comments! I've still got a few panels to go, so I'm off to the sewing table again for another late night.

You can cut and sew stunning lace appliqué motifs with this step-by-step tutorial, including images and videos from my sewing school students.

Pssst – here’s a sneak-peek of what I’ve been working on over the last few weeks. When I decided to make a dress completely out of lace fabric for a friend’s upcoming wedding this weekend, I didn’t anticipate the challenges that would come along with working with such a, well,…

I have long loved needle lace in most of its forms. I’ve not explored it in serious depth, but I have dabbled with it, read about it, and in general, I’m always attracted by needle lace, both ancient and modern. There are certain types of needle lace that appeal to me more than others, and ...

http://www.joggles.com/ has 2 video tutorials on painting lace with Dynaflow and one other paint that I didn't have. I've painted lace with...

How to sew lace fabric the easy way! With careful planning & a few helpful tips, you will find sewing lace fabric a rewarding experience.

Learn how to make broderie anglaise lace (eyelet lace) by hand. It's really easy!

26th March 2019 I keep this bowl beside my machine when I am sewing and put all cut off threads into it.... ....placed threads on dissolvable fabric... ....made a 'sandwich'... ....and used free machining to secure in a variety of metallic threads.... ....front... ...back... ....rinsed in water... ....front... ...back... ..I prefer the front! >>>>>> On Saturday I went with a friend to see a textile exhibition, it was brilliant and I wished I had money to spare as I could easily have bought some stunning items!! I came back and went straight into my craft room and made these two cards which I am rather pleased with, inspired by some work in the exhibition! >>>>>>> A lovely day here and I spent a few hours in the park with my gorgeous granddaughter where we fed the ducks, had ice cream and I spent a long time pushing a swing!! Just love it!!! >>>>>>>>> Took these photos on my walk down to the bus, such beautiful blossom against the blue sky. Until the next post, have a good week.....

Lace tutorials, terminology, info on lace seams and finishes, embellishments with lace, heirloom sewing, patterns and project using lace

http://www.joggles.com/ has 2 video tutorials on painting lace with Dynaflow and one other paint that I didn't have. I've painted lace with the dyes for that, but with paint you don't have to worry about the type of lace. It seems to work on anything. Each day I would do a covered board of one color group to see what would happen. A friend gave me some laces; some I bought; and some are leftovers from when my adult daughter was little, and I was putting them on dresses I sewed for her. This is very adictive. Now I need to think of way to use them.

I love to use the decorative machine stitches on my sewing machine and I use them in all sorts of different ways to achieve creative fabric embellishing effects. One of my favorite sewing techniques…

Are you wondering how to add lace trim like in earlier times? Learn 6 different vintage ways to insert lace and improve your heirloom sewing skills!

I had several people e-mail me and ask about pin stitching after reading my last journal entry , so I decided to create a tutorial and show...

Limerick lace is a floral tulle lace: It is hand-embroidered on machine-made cotton net. In this tutorial I'll show you how to make Limerick lace by hand.

I know I've told you before that one of my all time favourite places is Aldeburgh on the Suffolk coast. A mosaic of Aldeburgh loveliness! A few weeks ago I wanted to something textiley and I decided to try and reflect Aldeburgh. Not an actual representation, more of a memory of the light, the textures, the movement and the colours. I kept to a very limited colour palette, but used a variety of different fabrics and threads. I did some free motion embroidery, some hand embroidery, half hid some mother of pearl buttons and made some rust like holes through the layers of fabric with a solder iron. I added some shells and a small piece of drift wood. A Textile for Aldeburgh - 35cm x 24cm (click on the picture to enlarge it) I'm not sure if it does reflect Aldeburgh, but I don't know whether that really matters. I enjoyed working with the limited colours and at the moment I quite like it.

Make EYELETS with the eyelet stitch and variations like Algerian Eyelets, Pierced Eyelets and Diamond eyelets ; Perfect eyelets for fabric & leather

Are you wondering how to add lace trim like in earlier times? Learn 6 different vintage ways to insert lace and improve your heirloom sewing skills!

These three ways to attach lace to fabric are from the Edwardian era. In the 1900s, lace was attached to fabric either by hand or with a straight stitch sewing machine. Zig-zag stitches were never to sew lace to fabric in the Edwardian era. Related: How To Make Edwardian Net Applique 3 Ways How To … Continue reading 3 Ways How To Attach Lace To Fabric – Historical Sewing →

Another way of filling a shape in your embroidery pattern :) Lots of pictures below, you were warned! So, the stitch of this month is detached buttonhole! Or, rather, the technique of this month, because actually, this stitch has some variations and the name can even be extended to a technique common for stumpwork (which will hopefully be covered in one of the next posts). But I digress. If you are not familiar with a regular buttonhole stitch, check out these posts first: Buttonhole stitch basics Buttonhole stitch variations Buttonhole stitch as a filler Buttonhole stitch tip I recommend trying it out on a spare piece of fabric first, at least the basic one, to get used to the way it is worked. Although, you can actually work detached buttonhole without any preparation! Now, let's start the lesson because it is quite long as it is. Detached buttonhole type 1: loose I'm working this one with 1 strand of floss. First, we need to outline the shape. I used chain stitch, but other line stitches will do just as fine: back stitch, stem stitch, split stitch will suit this purpose. Now, if you strive for perfection, you might want to work the stitches evenly on the left and right sides. In this case, they will serve as a sort of mark. I'm usually the one to take it easy, so my stitches aren't perfectly aligned, they only serve the purpose of being an outline. Because of that I don't have marks and have to rely on my intuition, but I don't really mind, haha. We begin the first row of detached buttonhole the following way: bring the needle up through the fabric at one side of the shape, a little under the top, then slide the needle through one of the stitches of the outline vertically with your tip going downward. Notice how the working end of the thread is being tucked under the needle tip at this step. Pull the needle through, forming a loop. Keep it loose enough, don't pull too tight. But also, keep it in shape, you know? Well, you will get a hang of it once you try! Keep making stitches the same way and don't forget to slide your needle under the top stitches with its tip down and with the working thread tucked underneath. After you make the last loop, insert the needle on the other side of the shape, a little below the top level, mirroring what you did in the first step. Now come up through the fabric on the same side and repeat all the steps except that now you will be anchoring your loops on the ones from the row above. Keep going! By the way, for weaving techniques like this it is always better to use a needle with a blunt tip to avoid picking on thread fibers. I was too lazy to search for one in my stash though, so I just moved the needle with the needle eye down. If you look closely at the loops from different rows you will see the slight difference in how they are formed. It is because we change the direction with every row. But the difference is very difficult to notice without looking closely so we can make this sacrifice in order to save thread, right? It will not work for the other type of detached buttonhole though.... When we finished, we need to anchor the last row. For that, make a loop like you would normally do, tucking the working end of thread under the needle, and then slide the needle under one of the stitches from the outline. It will anchor the loop to that stitch. Keep doing the same with the rest of the loops in the last row. Anchored well! The result. Well, not perfectly neat, but it is a practice so I didn't really sweat over it, haha. I actually used this detached buttonhole for the leaves in this pattern! You can see that it can be worked for irregular shapes as well. Going to be a little challenging, but you just need to calculate the way place your rows. Detached buttonhole type 2: close woven The order of work for this is almost the same, the core movements are identical – we just add one more element. For this shape, I'm using 3 strands of floss, to make the weave even more close and dense. If I worked it with 1 strand of floss it would be a little more airy, but I wanted to show how to get that “heavy” effect. So, work an outline for your shape, I used back stitch here. Then, come upwards through the fabric at one side of the shape and insert the needle at another side on the same level. You are making a giant straight stitch this way, which lies horizontally on the fabric. And then, on the same side where you inserted the needle last time, you will come up a little below that bar, and make a loop. The loop is worked almost the same way as before: the needle sliding downward through the stitch above, except that the needle also goes under the bar before you tuck the working thread under it. So, remember: under the stitch above, under the bar, but over the working thread. This way, you are trapping the bar stitch inside your loop. And then you can continue working the full row repeating the previous steps. When you reach the other side, you need to make a new bar and start another row of detached buttonhole. So, basically, you always start on the same side. With this type of weaving and this thickness of thread, if you start a new row of loops from another side, the difference will be more visible. It is not that likely to start from the other side, though, because you always come back to the same one after making another bar, anyway. But I'm telling this in case your thread ends and you want to continue from the other side. The difference in loops will be clear! Now to the topic of anchoring the loops. I have two suggestions. Here, as you are working the last row of loops, you can slide under the outline stitch as well. So, the order will be: under the loop above, under the bar, under the stitch from the outline, over the working thread. It will create a sort of an edge. Another way is to work the last row of stitches completely (I cut it in half here just to show you what it would look like), and then anchor every loop like you would do with a fly stitch. This is how it can look like. You can also anchor it right over the outline stitches! I used the first method to save thread because it was about to finish, haha. It can be worked even closer, actually. To the point that the background hardly peaks through at all. For that, make your loops shorter – I skipped every other back stitch when I was working the first row, but you can make a loop for each one. So, here are the new ways you can fill your shapes in embroidery. One is an open filling, like lattice, the other is... semi-solid, I would say? It will depend on how closely you work it and how thick your thread will be! Oof, congrats if you made it till here! See you at the next tutorial! :)

Mokuba Free Lace Tutorial by Carla Barrett The picture on the top reflects a finished scarf, however, this product can be used to create a variety of fiber projects including a purse, wearable art,…

Learn all about how to sew lace to make beautiful handmade clothing. These sewing tips work for sewing and altering lace dresses.

A vintage scalloped lace valance window treatment made of wide lace edging trim. This cotton guipure lace fabric features embossed floral motifs in the body of the design, with straight looped edges along the top and scalloped edges along the bottom. Reclaimed lace perfectly suited for sewing projects with themes of nostalgia, romance, and luxury... Use it as a lace tier curtain, a window topper or as café window lace. Perfectly suited to country home, farmhouse or rustic cottage home decor. ------------------ D E T A I L S : ------------------ - Vintage crocheted hollow lace - 19cm / 7,5-inches wide (top to bottom) - Scroll down for detailed pattern dimensions - Floral motif - Off-white ecru color - Cotton fiber ------------------ * Sold by the half meter / approximately 19.5 inches ** Ships within 1-2 business days ***Orders of more than one unit (0.5m or 19.5in) will be measured in a continuous length and cut as one piece. ****Fabric consists of 1 x 3,4-meter length (1 x 3,7 yards approximately) ------------------ I loved the process of reclaiming this beautiful edging trim and now it is ready for you to use. Because my textiles are reclaimed, there could be minor defects where stitches were undone. These defects do not affect the quality of the products though. You can have peace of mind that the items have been carefully laundered before the recycling process starts. I stock a variety of reclaimed fabrics, laces, and trims. Feel free to come and see more products here: https://www.etsy.com/se-en/shop/NalediFabrics Here you can see the laces section: https://www.etsy.com/se-en/shop/NalediFabrics?ref=shop_sugg§ion_id=33813346 If you would like to see my vintage scrap fabric sewing kits, follow the link to this section of my shop: https://www.etsy.com/shop/NalediFabrics?ref=shop_sugg§ion_id=33431641 Come and find me on Instagram: @naledi_fabrics. I would love to see you there. You are welcome to contact me via Etsy messages if you would like any further information. Notes: - The pictures of the listing show the lace you will receive in your order - actual products will be similar or same and are not guaranteed to be cut on the same pattern point. I do try to keep the pattern as solid as possible and depending on the measurement ordered. - Each order is prepared and sent in appropriate packaging. I strive to use minimal plastic and mostly recyclable packaging, so please remember to recycle the packaging when you no longer need it. - All orders are shipped with a tracking reference - which I will send to you as soon as the parcel is dispatched. - Textiles measured and cut on order are not returnable, as they are considered a customized order. - Every care has been taken to accurately show colors of the products; however, screens and hardware differ, and fabric colors could appear slightly different than the original. -------------------- Detailed pattern dimensions in CENTIMETERS (approx.): - Width of lace 19cm (top to bottom) - The vertical pattern repeats are approx. 8cm wide: giving 6 floral motifs per half meter. - Minimum order length is 50cm. * Should you want 1 meter of the lace, you should order (qty) 2, for 1.5 meters you should order (qty) 3, and so on and so forth... ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Detailed pattern dimensions in INCHES (approx.): - Width of lace 7,5-inches (top to bottom) - The vertical repeats are approx. 3 in wide: giving 6 floral motifs per 19.5 inches. - Minimum order length is 19.5 inches (= just over half a yard, which is 18 inches) * Should you want approx. 1 yard of the lace, you should order (qty) 2, for approx. 1.5 yards you should order (qty) 3, and so on and so forth... --------------------

Lavender sachets were a popular gift in the Victorian and Edwardian era. Lavender sachets are fast to sew and a great way to use up fabric and lace scraps.

Limerick lace is a floral tulle lace: It is hand-embroidered on machine-made cotton net. In this tutorial I'll show you how to make Limerick lace by hand.

Sewing lace edging to fabric is easy and very pretty! Lace edging has one scalloped edge and one straight edge. A contrasting color thread was used for the photos. Use a fine machine thread that matches the lace. Lightly starch and press the fabric and lace. With right sides together, pin the lace edging to the fabric about 1/8" to 1/4" from the fabric raw edge. Stitch the lace to the fabric using a straight stitch of 2.0. Whip and roll the lace to the fabric by setting the machine on a zigzag stitch width of 3.0 and length of 1.0. Using an open toed or a rolled hem foot, "zig" into the straight edge of the lace and "zag" off the edge of the fabric. The fabric edge should roll over onto the lace. (Because each machine is different, try different machine feet and experiment with the stitch until you get the desired results.) Hold the thread tails as you begin to stitch. You will need to take a few stitches before the fabric starts to "roll." Press the lace away from the fabric, pressing the rolled edge toward the fabric. This technique takes a little practice to find what stitch adjustment and foot works best for your machine, but once you master it, you will never hesitate to "Whip and Roll!"

Limerick lace is a floral tulle lace: It is hand-embroidered on machine-made cotton net. In this tutorial I'll show you how to make Limerick lace by hand.

Learn how to sew with this warm-weather fabric, by Haley Glenn.

Learn tips and tricks for sewing with delicate lace fabric!

Many fiber artists have captured dry, lacy leaves in quilts. They lend themselves so well to lustrous threads and machine embroidery. But, as anyone who has tried to create thread-only designs can tell you, patience and a good water-soluble stabilizer are absolute musts.

What is slow stitching? A lot of fun! Learn how to get started with slow stitching and enjoy this creative textile art.

Are you wondering how to add lace trim like in earlier times? Learn 6 different vintage ways to insert lace and improve your heirloom sewing skills!

Learn how to invisibly join lace trim by hand for your next historical costuming or heirloom sewing project project.

Are you wondering how to add lace trim like in earlier times? Learn 6 different vintage ways to insert lace and improve your heirloom sewing skills!

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Hand made lace has many different lace fillings in a row of medallions that repeat every two inches. There is a scalloped border with medallions of lace fillings. Made with linen thread. Lace has a cut linen fabric edge as shown in the pictures. There is patina throughout, mostly on the linen fabric. There are several seams along the length. Lace is in wonderful condition with no damage, strong and slightly stiff. Sold in 33 inch lengths.

lace

In the Edwardian era, lace was often inserted with a rolled hem by hand. This creates a secure and neat finish that is almost invisible on the right side of the fabric. Related: 6 Ways How To Insert Lace How To Insert Lace By Hand You’ll need: cotton lace – like bobbin or Valenciennes lace … Continue reading How To Insert Lace By Hand – Historical Sewing →

Embroidered

http://www.joggles.com/ has 2 video tutorials on painting lace with Dynaflow and one other paint that I didn't have. I've painted lace with...

My love of paper, layouts, scrapbooking, mini albums, cards, and journals, albums, and more.