Silk tulle is extremely soft and sheer and it provides a different sewing experience from working with a woven fabric. Silk taffeta has a crisp hand, comes in a variety…

Today I am going to share the post I did for Jenn's Lost Arts of Smocking last month. Please let me know if you found this tutorial ...

Embroidery 101: How to Embroider: This instructable will teach you the very basics of hand embroidery. Learning to embroider is not as tough as you might think! With a bit of practice, you'll get it down in no time. Plus, embroidery is a nice relaxing thing to do after a long day if…

Your shoulders are like a clothes hanger: Every top, jacket, and dress you put on hangs from them. If you want your clothes to look better on you than on…

Israeli designer Tamara Efrat has combined traditional smocking embroidery with computational algorithms to create the Crafted Technology collection of bags

Tightly pulled vertical smocking. Image via Trans.lu.cent» Smocking is a fabric manipulation technique that is generally created by using hand stitching to create areas of tension and release in the fabric. This results in very sculptural

Israeli designer Tamara Efrat has combined traditional smocking embroidery with computational algorithms to create the Crafted Technology collection of bags

I was at Denman college, the education college of the WI, doing a food shoot for their magazine, when I discovered a temporary exhibition of traditional English smocks. My father had an interest in…

I had several people e-mail me and ask about pin stitching after reading my last journal entry , so I decided to create a tutorial and show...

Identifier: smockingfancysti00butt Title: Smocking, fancy stitches, and cross stitch and darned net designs Year: 1895 (1890s) Authors: Butterick Publishing Co., Limited Subjects: Publisher: London, New York, The Butterick Pub. Co. Contributing Library: Smithsonian Libraries Digitizing Sponsor: Smithsonian Libraries View Book Page: Book Viewer About This Book: Catalog Entry View All Images: All Images From Book Click here to view book online to see this illustration in context in a browseable online version of this book. Text Appearing Before Image: A • • • e • A) • • • • • A • • • • • J^ ••••••••••••••••••< M FlGUKE NO. 8. • • • « • ♦ • • • • » •■ ft • • ** * * « » • • a • • • • • • * • • • • 0 • . • • • • ■ Figure No. 9. Figures Nos. 8 and 9.—English Method of Smocking. (For Descriptions of Figures Nob. 8 and 9 see English Method of Smocking.1^ DARNED-NET DESIGNS, ETC. paper will have to befully examine figure No.the arrows are to beinstance, and those con-lines are to be similarlymost space; catch togetherarrows, beginning at the right; insertsecurely, two or three over-and-overneath and out through theas illustrated at figure No.uer described to the endNow begin at the sec-gether the dots connecteding the needle underneathdot just below, as shownthe needle through as il-and make the tacking se-row is done in the sameed the work will not bethread should lie betweenside is illustrated at figure Text Appearing After Image: used as in tucking. Care-1; the dots indicated bycaught together in everyFigure No. 10. nected by the dotted caught. Begin at the top-the dots indicated by thethe needle as shown at figure No. 2, and make the fasteningstitches being usually sufficient; then pass the needle under-next arrow dot below,3. Continue in the man-of the line. ond space and catch to-by the broken lines, pass-and out through the linedat figure No. 4; then passlustrated at figure No. 5cure. Each succeedingway. Once properly start-tedious. The way thethe folds on the wrongNo. 7. Note About Images Please note that these images are extracted from scanned page images that may have been digitally enhanced for readability - coloration and appearance of these illustrations may not perfectly resemble the original work.

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The Vera top, a Noro Paris signature! The Vera smocked top is a Noro Paris iconic piece, coming back every season with different executions. Always beautiful, always enchanting us with its hand-smocked front panel, made with care and love by skilled dressmakers. Experience the Parisian chic-ness and take home with you a very special piece your girl will cherish. Pair with the Chaplin or Aladin pants and the Aster sandals. Chambray, 100% cotton Blush/gold hand-smocked front panel Kimono sleeves Round neck 5 buttons in the back Color: blush Machine wash 30°C, delicate cycle We recommend to size up as this style runs small

Стеганный прямоугольный жакет (выкройка, Diy) / Простые выкройки / ВТОРАЯ УЛИЦА

32 p. 27 cm

June is a beautiful time in the already picturesque East Kingdom, and one of my favorite June events is Palio di Stonemarche . This year m...

I found this beautiful tutorial from Pinterest. I have so many ideas for this, but unfortunately it’s all in French. I decided to translate it so I could work on trying this on a skirt or ski…

The Canadian Smocking Matrix Design is a unique and popular way of creating smocking patterns. It is created by first creating a grid of horizontal and vertical lines on a piece of fabric. Then, the fabric is gathered along the lines to create the desired pattern. This method is often used to create intricate and … Continue reading "How To Do Canadian Smocking Matrix Design"

Канадский Смокинг – Урок 14 (Кости)

The Canadian Smocking Matrix Design is a unique and popular way of creating smocking patterns. It is created by first creating a grid of horizontal and vertical lines on a piece of fabric. Then, the fabric is gathered along the lines to create the desired pattern. This method is often used to create intricate and … Continue reading "How To Do Canadian Smocking Matrix Design"

Smocking is a well known traditional embroidery technique, which gathers fabric together into tight pleats so that is can stretch and return to its gathered shape. It is often used as a form of decoration on a garment, as the gathering of the material and stitches can be formulated to create patterns.

Learn unique techniques that will enhance your next quilt! These vintage sewing techniques will raise the surface of your quilt and truly impress. We’ll learn heirloom smocking techniques, t…

Fagoting (or Faggoting in the UK)/ noun: embroidery in which threads are fastened together in bundles Pronunciation: /ˈfagətɪŋ/ Or more simply put, fagoting is a method of joining hemmed edges by crisscrossing thread over an open seam. Photo Credit I see this detail a lot in 1930's blouses and dresses. A couple of years ago, I lucked out and found three early 1930's collar patterns (for very cheap) and all of them included fagoting: Not only did I get these lovely patterns but I got a few surprises as well! Including this completed collar (which must have been from another pattern): Look at that beautiful detail! I just love it! I have plans sometime soon to sew up an outfit to match this great yellow and white collar (maybe for the spring?). But that wasn't all, there was also this beauty: It's a long, almost necklace length collar piece. Another stunning piece of craftmanship. I want to incorporate this into an outfit as well! After spending some time examining those two finished pieces, it inspired me to try my hand at it! I used McCall 392 version A and did a bit of a trial run. Here is the result of one of the triangles (this is the back side): The technique is surprisingly easy but I was definitely aided by using the very easy Colleterie blog tutorial on how to sew a fagoted seam. I really love the way the stitching looks when using this method. I'm still deciding on actual colours for the final collars and cuffs and of course, a dress to match but it's was really great learning a new technique. Here's a bit more on the technique from my 1954 Singer Sewing Book: I really like how this spiral stitch looks. Here's the method that the Colette tutorial teaches: I also really want to make the leaves collar from McCall 392. Here's the pattern pieces that the previous owner has carefully attached to brown paper and already used: I'm definitely intrigued! Another project for the list ;-) Have you ever done any fagoting stitchwork? Ever heard of it before?

You are ready to start pleating!! Here are a few tips to get you going. (Photos in this blog have been taken using the ComPleater Box available through Amberlane) 16 Row Read Pleater and ComPleater Box Begin by removing all needles not required for pleating your fabric from the machine. This saves wear and tear on the needles not being used and could prevent breakage. It also allows you to check these needles for a bent one or other damage. Needles for most projects are positioned at the ‘non-handle’ end so only the fabric being pleated passes through the machine. To thread, pull the thread up from under the needle. Pull through the eye of the needle sufficient thread to reach the table top. By allowing this amount of thread, you are far less likely to have the thread pull out of the needle(s) when clearing the fabric. Threading from the bottom up allows you to easily clear the thread from the needles when pleating is complete. But more about that later. On the right is a side view of a Read 16 row pleater mounted on a ComPleater box, pleater tipped up for ease of pleating. The fabric is rolled onto a dowel and has started to pass through the machine. Here you can see that the fabric was positioned to pass through the pleater rollers so the first gathering thread is one full space down from the raw edge of the fabric. This allows for a ½” seam allowance which will fall just below the first gathering thread. Passing the fabric at ½ space from the raw edge would allow you to use a smaller seam allowance. The needles in this photo on the left are full and need clearing. When this happens, you will find the handle harder to move and the machine will sound like it is starting to ‘thump’. Do not force the handle any more. Stop and gently ease the fabric off the needles. Below you see that the fabric has been cleared from the needles so you can carry on pleating. Here the pleating is done and the last of the fabric is cleared from the pleats. If you slightly raise the fabric you can slip a finger in between the threads in the needles. Keep in mind that the thread on the top of the needles is the short end (not attached to the thead spools) Gently pull up on each of these threads to remove them from the fabric. See the close-up below. You may wish to put a thumb nail on the needle to give some support while pulling the thread out – just to prevent bent needles. Once the threads are released from the pleater, you can simply pull up and give yourself enough thread to accommodate the letting out of pleats for smocking. More will be needed for a bishop but once you have spread the pleats and tied off the threads, you can trim the unwanted ends. You will learn to gage how much thread you need but it is better to have more than insufficient. With the Read pleater you will find that the pleating rolls so that the wrong side is the ‘inside’ of the roll. The long stitch is on the wrong side. When you pleat with a Read pleater place the fabric so that the wrong side of the fabric is ‘up’ or next to the roller. This allows you to see a seam more easily if you must pass one through the machine. 24 row Sally Stanley pleater threaded to pleat an insert. The fabric is positioned to hold 13 rows of gathering threads centered on the fabric. Leaving the extra two needles on the ends, ensures more even pleating. (I cheated for this and eft all the needles in place.) Below the fabric has been cleared from the needles. The pleating is evenly centered. On the right you see the difference in the pleating from the Read to the Sally Stanley. The needles of the Sally Stanley are much closer to the center of the pleat and it is more difficult to identify the right and wrong sides. The long stitch is still the wrong side. Just note that fabric should be pleated with the right side facing up so the gathering threads are slightly to the back of the fabric. Here is another type of insert done on a 24 row Read pleater. Sometimes you want to pleat a piece of fabric with the pleating centered in the middle of the fabric, leaving a ruffle on each end (e.g. for decorations). Lightly press the fabric in half so you can line up the fabric to a needle or a half space while you are pleating. In this example six needles have been threaded up and the fold is lined up to a half-space needle as a guide. Whatever you choose to pleat, a light shot of spray starch will give you better and crisper pleats. Keep your pleater clean and pass some waxed paper through occasionally to lubricate it. And most of all, check your needles often for bends or damage. Needles should be sharp; keep in mind they don't last forever. I hope this is a help to those of you who might have questions about pleating for smocking. So until next time, keep on stitching!!

Kim Sanders is an EGA-certified teacher in Crewel and Surface Embroidery, and a Master Craftsman in Surface Embroidery and Smocking. Kim is a frequent and popular teacher at regional and national seminars, guilds, and shops, and a constant feature in EGA’s selection of Group Correspondence Courses and Individual Correspondence Courses. She has also been featured […]

Stitching lace insertion to fabric is the first technique that we learn when I teach heirloom sewing by machine. This is not a strong application of lace and best used on collars, yokes, or sleeves. Lace insertion is the lace that is straight on both edges. If one side of the lace feels rougher than the other, this is the wrong side of the lace. I have used a contrasting color thread for the photos. Use a fine machine thread that matches the lace and a 60/8 size machine needle. Starch and press the lace and fabric. Using a wash-away marker, mark the lace placement lines on the fabric. Set the sewing machine on straight stitch length of 2.0 and stitch close to the edge of the lace down both sides. I prefer to stitch from top to bottom each time to prevent the fabric and lace from distorting. Turn the fabric to the wrong side, and carefully cut the fabric between the stitching lines, being careful not to cut the lace. Press the fabric away from the lace. On the right side of the fabric, using a zigzag stitch of 2.0 width and 0.7 length, stitch over the previous stitching line. The stitch should "zig" into the lace and "zag" into the fabric. On the wrong side of the fabric, using blunt scissors, trim away the excess fabric. Starch and press the fabric and lace before continuing with your garment. I first started doing heirloom sewing about 15 years ago while doing custom sewing for "Joy's of Smocking" in Decatur, AL. I still love working with lace and fabric!

Don't stress over the tension dials on your sewing machine. Find out when and how to set and adjust thread tension.