If you love wearing leggings like I do, you will be thrilled to learn that they are super simple to make! Click to learn how to make your own leggings. FREE
Learn 6 best seam finishes for beautiful sewing inside and out. Neatly finishing your seams makes your sewing look professional and keeps it from fraying.
Thank you to all of you who wrote about your favorite stitch this past week for the 2000 Likes on Facebook Giveaway. I loved hearing your descriptions of how certain stitches bring back sweet memor…
Welcome back to another post in our ongoing fabric series, this time all about helping you answer that age-old question: what fabric should I use to make…? If you’ve been following along with the seri
most recent completed piece for exhibition.
Learn to makeover your old clothes into recycled clothing with these upcycled clothing tutorials. Learn to sew and make your own...
© 2015 Runway Sewing. All Rights Reserved. Here is how you make this elegant but sophisticated and simple T shirt. I used silk charmeuse but you can use basically any shirting weight fabric. It will fit and flatter any body type and size. All you need is 1 yard of fabric and about 2 hours to make this sweet T! Please note, silk is harder to sew, so if you are a beginner I suggest using cotton fabric. Material: 1.) 1 yard silk or light weight cotton fabric 2.) thread 3.) pins 4.) scissors 5.) measuring tape 6.) sewing machine 7.) marker or chalk 8.) 1/4" bias binding (optional) 9.) Pattern paper or approximately 26"x24" size paper (taped) 10.) yard stick or long ruler Duration: 2 - 2 1/2 hours Sewing Level: Beginner 1. We will make a simple pattern for this T shirt. Using paper pattern or printer paper taped together to be sized about 24" width x26" length, draw a the top and center imaginary line. 2. Mark the hem line to be 26" (can be shorter or longer as you desire) 3. Draw 2 straight vertical lines 24" apart or 12" from center front imaginary line. (After you draw #5 below, redraw the side seams so that right under the armhole it curved in about 1/2" and blend back to 0" at bottom hem. This makes it easier when you are sewing the bottom of the armhole.) 4. Mark 3 1/2" down from the top, for shoulder slope. 5. From the shoulder slope, mark 9" down for armhole opening. 6. At top center mark 10 1/2" in width or 5 1/4" from center front imaginary line. From the center, mark 7 1/2" down, then draw your front curved neckline. The back will drop 1" from top line and curve as well. Please note, you don't have to make a separate pattern for the back as the only difference is the neckline. Just make sure to cut the front and back necklines separately when cutting the fabric! You did it! You have a pattern that you made from scratch! As you can see that was pretty easy! The body circumference is 48" so this will fit size small to large. For your visual reference, the mannequin is a size 4/small. 7. Now, for cutting the fabric. My suggestion is to fold the fabric so you can cut the front and back together. Just make sure to cut the front and back neck line separately! 8. You have to make sure the fabric ends are on the left and right side when placing your pattern to be cut. The ends of the fabric or salvage is layed horizontally so that the "grain" of the fabric will drape properly. 9. For sewing, I used a marrow machine and used binding for the neckline then top stitched the edge of the neck line. You can use binding or finish the edges by using the zig zag stitch or marrow, then fold inward and stitch down. Good luck and Enjoy! ** If you like this project, you may also like 1 hour or less silk vest. Click here for project #24!
Need I remind you that fabrics can either make or break your project. Read on for more info on our guide to different fabrics and their properties.
Красивая рельефная вышивка с элементами объемной глади Lita Jonathans .
So what's the big deal about spray starch? Most people these days don't even iron their clothes, let alone starch them! Isn't starch one of those old fashioned things that added hours to our grandmothers' workloads? Clothing starch has been used on clothing since the 16th century when it was used to stiffen the large collars, or ruffs that were in vogue. At one time people actually dipped their wet clothes in a solution of water , boiled and mixed with the starch that came in boxes. Then it was hung on the line to dry and ironed while damp. It was a lot of work, to be sure. It was common to treat linens this way. If you have ever been to a yard sale or flea market and picked up an old tablecloth that has that stiff card-boardish feel and perfect creases and wondered how people did that, now you know it's starch. If you look at old photos you can't help but notice how crisp and neat looking the clothing people wore back then was. The invention of spray starch was a real time saver for ironers in the fifties. It was no longer necessary to stir up the powder into a bucket and dip the clothes into it. Just a little spray at the ironing board would do it! Canned aerosol spray starch is still available today. It does work wonders for your vintage sewing projects and gives that crisp, stiff feel essential to a fifties style dress. Collars, cuffs, blouses, and petticoats were routinely starched. So what is in these cans of spray starch? Water, Propellant, Film Former, Ironing Aids, Quality Control Agents, Fragrance Hmm.. What the heck does that tell us? Not much. But there is a stamp on the can claiming no CFC's which deplete the ozone layer are in it. I was at the 99 Cent store the other day and saw a can and bought it. I have been working on a thrift shop refashion; a yellow nineties linen dress with a big white crochet collar which I wanted to turn into a fifties style frock. I was done with the project this morning but it just didn't have the oomph I was looking for. So out came the can of starch to give it that crisp stiff feel I like on linen. The dress from the thrift shop when I brought it home. I like the linen fabric but it was tea length which I don't go for, and longer in the back than the front, making it more formal. The dress after I removed the collar and facing. I added some vintage bias binding I had and hemmed the skirt. I starched it and put a crinoline skirt under it, giving it a crisp, swingy, feel My starch.
A fun sewing tip, brought to you weekly! In this week's tip, learn how to make a straight edge when matching curved seams. Seam allowance is important here!
This stitch is decorative and one of the ways in which we can add to a simple running stitch to make it more interesting. You need to know the running stitch to be able to attempt this variation. Fig 1: Lay a foundation of running stitch. With a...
Once I had my underpinnings set I decided to make the skirt, so I could be sure that when my bodice was constructed it would fit over all of the skirt layers and still be able to close at the waist…
Are you ready to rock out some tailoring, Sew-Alongers? It's time for the exciting stuff! While working on this sample, I remembered just how much I love tailoring by hand. The handstitching can be relaxing and it's fun to pretend you're a bespoke tailor on Saville Row or something. Are you new to tailoring? Welcome! To understand the basic concept, all you really need to know is this: tailoring is the process of applying interfacing, hand stitches, and careful pressing to make your garment retain a certain shape. As you know, fabric doesn't form the beautiful soft folds of a lapel on its own. We're going to coax our fabric into those shapes with a little hair canvas, pad-stitching, twill tape, and basting. Make sense? If it seems like a magical alchemical process, that's because it kind of is. You'll be amazed to see a beautifully rolled lapel form under your fingers as you pad-stitch it! Today, I want to show you the anatomy of your coat front and how to apply the hair canvas to your side panel. But first, I absolutely must thank my teacher Sharon who has taught me a ton and also helped me figure out how to present all this. There are various levels of tailoring, and different methods for all of them. So what Sharon proposed for our sew-along was a sequence of "light" tailoring done by hand. It's not complicated, but it will make a HUGE difference in the way your coat looks and feels. Now, on to the anatomy lesson! Here are the key parts of your coat front. First, the lapel, indicated with a purple arrow here. This area is interfaced with hair canvas and pad-stitched by hand (we'll get to that later this week). As you can perhaps see, I've only just started my pad-stitching. Right below the lapel is the roll line, indicated below with green arrows. This is where your coat folds open into your lapel. Remember when we marked our roll lines? In the tailoring process, twill tape is applied to the roll line, which will help the lapel keep its lovely shape instead of flopping around like a fish out of water. Remember your handcrafted bound buttonholes? A little window is cut in the hair canvas to allow the button to pass through. All that's left is the coat side and the portion of the coat front underneath the roll line. These are marked with the red arrows below. These areas are interfaced with hair canvas, which is basted to the fashion fabric with a permanent uneven basting stitch, which I'm going to go over today. This may seem like a lot to swallow, but have no fear! Today I'm just going to go over the first step: basting hair canvas to your side piece. Let's begin! So cut out pattern piece B (side front) in your hair canvas, following the grainlines. (Note: it's advised that you pre-shrink your hair canvas by spritzing it with water and steam-ironing it. I tried this with mine, and it didn't shrink at all so I'm being bold and not pre-shrinking. But best to take the precaution.) Cut off the hem allowance on your hair canvas; the pattern calls for 2" and that's what I'm doing. This is so the canvas won't be doubled-up in the hem. Now place the canvas on top of your fabric piece and pin in place. Next, draw in your basting lines on the canvas. These are straight lines 2" apart from each other. You don't need to go into the seam allowances with your basting. Mine are the pink chalk lines below. Baste along these lines with an uneven permanent basting stitch (see the video below for instructions). Only grab a thread or two of your outer fabric (you can grab a little more if your fabric is very textured and won't show stitching); you don't want the basting to show on the outside. Here's a video to help you with your stitching! That's all for today, Sew-Alongers. Tomorrow I'll show you sewing the two front pieces together, catch-stitching your seam allowances to the canvas, and applying the canvas to your front piece. Questions and suggestions welcome, as always! P.S. One thing I should mention is that I've decided against the pattern's method of pressing the princess seams to the side and top-stitching them. My fabric is a bit bulky for that and the top-stitching won't show on the textured tweed anyhow. As you'll see in the next installment, I'm pressing my seams open and catch-stitching them to the hair canvas. Think about whether or not you'll want to do the same!
Ever since my first version of The Hibiscus Robe free sewing pattern, I've wanted to sew ten million more in every decadent fabric I can think of. Ombré charmeuse was dramatic and luxurious, but I can easily imagine cascading chiffon and billowing organza. Maybe even a voluminous faille to turn the robe into a dress? For this redux, I opted for one of my fabric faves: a stunning floral embroidered mesh. From boudoir to bourgeois, this all-lace version of The Hibiscus is sure to bring the drama.
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Customise Your Boring Plain Tees With These Fabulous Ideas. 😍The instructions are not in English but the visuals are pretty clear to figure out. Thanks for having a look. If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask. Thank you for following me. Followers are always appreciated. My friend limit is maxed out. But still keep sending the request and I'll follow you. Have a happy and healthy day. 😄
Mending clothing with wool roving is an excellent sustainable practice and helps to extend the life of your clothing. Here’s a fun ghost design for Halloween! This project works best with natural fibers and knit items (ideally ones made out of wool) but I’ve also had great success mending other clothing items. Pants made out
10 DIY Throw pillow ideas that you can actually make! Awesome tutorials!!!
It’s quarantine chic! Make a glamorous floor-length dressing gown or a short brunch coat for lounging in style. Inspired by Rose Weissman on The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel, this project will bring vintage charm to all your days at home. This is an expansion pattern for The Princess Coat. This pattern was originally published on Patreon [...]
Tutorial: Draft and sew a saree blouse Women can look Elegant, Pretty, Sweet, Cute, Sexy, Glamour’s , and many more in a saree. Ev...
Once I had my underpinnings set I decided to make the skirt, so I could be sure that when my bodice was constructed it would fit over all of the skirt layers and still be able to close at the waist…
Turn a washcloth into a DIY travel kit for your toiletries! This step-by-step tutorial will show you how, and there are two no-sew options as well if you don't sew!
This sewing basic tutorial will teach you how to sew a gathering stitch for perfect ruffles every time.
Let’s take an inside peek at a DVF wrap dress, shall we? I went to Century 21 on my lunch hour and snapped some photos of a DVF wrap dress that was on sale there and is the same as the wrap d…
In this comprehensive article on the skill of patternmaking, I'll sketch out the learning process, the ideal aptitudes in the maker, the skills, the timeframe, and the critical thinking skills you will need in order to really be a good pattern maker. This article will help you determine if learning
Our original Winterberry Cape featured an ankle-length silhouette, perfect for a dramatic look, but we're re-releasing this free sewing pattern with a few
