Artofit

How to start a synth DIY adventure? A list of possibilities depending on your skills, example sound synthesizer projects for beginners and advanced music enthusiasts.

Glidophone is a classic synth DIY project from 1968. Sound generation circuit uses only 4 transistors to create LFO, VCO and simple VCA with EG!

Make a Wave Shaper Multifunction Sound Synthesizer

Build a multifunction sound synthesizer using a surprisingly fun audio chip.

$20 DIY Arduino Synth Example Sounds through Zoom CDR-70

Here's a video showing some of the sounds capable with the little Arduino synth. Without doubt the star of the show is the Zoom CDR-70 which massively enhances the depth of the sounds. The more cynical among you might think playing it through a FX pedal is cheating, but I only ever play through effects, so there. Controlling the synth is an Arturia Keystep, which has some nice arpeggiator abilities... and because I can't really play, you'll hear those a lot :-0

DIY Arduino String Synth With Analogue Filter ***Updates at bottom of page - Easy to read Schematics etc**** Just like the A...

How to start a synth DIY adventure? A list of possibilities depending on your skills, example sound synthesizer projects for beginners and advanced music enthusiasts.

Schematic is avaiable HERE.

How to start a synth DIY adventure? A list of possibilities depending on your skills, example sound synthesizer projects for beginners and advanced music enthusiasts.

One electronic instrument in a super-economical enclosure can be quite charming, but building a whole series becomes a stylish design choiceADACHI's

Moog Style Synth: First and foremost, I have to give a massive shout out to Pete McBennett who designed this awesome circuit. When I came across it on YouTube I couldn't believe the sound that he managed to get out of a handful of components. The synth has a MASSIV…

DIY Arduino String Synth With Analogue Filter ***Updates at bottom of page - Easy to read Schematics etc**** Just like the Arduino Drum Machine, this is another build based on the amazing work of Jan Ostman, who is generous enough to share the code over on his website; ***Old website*** https://janostman.wordpress.com/how-to-build-your-very-own-string-synth/ ***New Website*** http://synthworks.eu/arduino-string-synthesizer/ The suggested $3 dollar donation is quite simply amazing value for money, so if you use this, don't forget to tip! On top of Jan's work, I've added a 12db filter with resonance (based on this design) to add a bit more sound sculpting to the synth. Filters are a massive part of synthesis to me (mainly because I can't play but can quite happily turn knob) and an analogue filter really adds to the warmth 'wobble' of the synth. The filter has a separate on/off switch and bypass switch. Looking back it would've been better to build that into one switch, and also to move the output further to the right. Ahhh the power of hindsight. I wanted the synth to look very Minimoog-ish or Prophet 5-ish, which I think I achieved, but building the case was by far and away the hardest part of the build (due to my own inexperience/stupidity). Total build time was spread over 3 months and probably took about 20 hours (most of that time was spent staring at nothing trying to think what to do next). If I were to make it again I think I could get it down to about ten hours, if luck was on my side. Here's a quick video of it in action; Parts The total cost of parts came to about €60, with most of that going on the MIDITECH midi keyboard. I used a cheap Chinese Arduino Nano clone to keep the cost down (around €2), then a few pots and resistors etc again from China. Also high quality plywood from Modulor for €2.90 (I think it was 6.5cmx250x500). The perspex was also from Modulor. Obviously if you don't already own wood stain and glue etc your cost will be significantly higher. For the panels I used my banggood laser engraver, which I think adds massively to the look of the synth. If you don't have one of these you could use a label printer. Electronics Jan's website documents the build process pretty well, so go check there for schematics etc. I did manage to draw up the wiring diagram which may save somebody a bit of time when hooking up the keys (find it somewhere below). I started by taking apart the MIDITECH and unplugging the ribbon cables; You won't need this part any longer so remove it to save some space; I soldered the Arduino Nano to some perfboard to make it easier to handle (and to screw down to the chassis later on). Then using some ribbon cables I began to figure out how to connect the keyboards out's with the Arduino's In's. Eventually I figured out what went where and soldered it all down and covered the connectors with heat-shrink. You'll probably save a bit of time if you use this; That's the majority of the synth finished! From the nano's output I added a bypass switch and then the 12db filter. I forgot to take any pictures of that though until it was already attached - sorry! But it all fitted onto another small perf-board; The Case I started by cutting some cheap board and securing the key-bed onto it. This gave me an idea of the final size of the synth to which I based my design around. I kept the bottom plastic of the MIDITECH (always capitals!) keyboard because it would secure down easier (using it's screw holes) and also because it would probably be a pain to try and re-construct it any other way. I also added some 'feet' at this point. Feet... With bottom panel size known, I sketched out the rest of the case... The side panels; All the parts have been cut here (the other bit of perspex with the dials on was temporary just to make sure it was still working); Notice the pencil with my name written on it. That's mine it is. Then using my old friend Ponal Wood glue I started sticking everything together (including fingers, clothes and everything else); Then it was time to design the front panel and the laser engrave it onto perspex. The smell was awful (and toxic)... I stayed in the room long enough to feel faint. I did sleep well that night though. Running a test on card; Burn! After it was engraved I filled it in with white acrylic paint; With the panels and case completed it was time to stain the wood. I used a mahogany brown stain, using two or three coats. The trick here is not to use to0 much and to keep it moving when it's been applied, otherwise you'll get an uneven finish. Once this had dried it was time to add the varnish. Like with the stain, I find it's best to use only a tiny amount and spread it out as much as possible to get the best finish (you can always add another layer later). With this synth I found one layer to be enough; Once this has dried you can now put it all together. For extra security I also used some hot glue to do this (and it's not fallen apart yet) I added screws to secure the perspex panel but can't find a picture of that. But I'm sure you can imagine what it looks like. Conclusion Overall I'm pretty happy with how it turned out, with only a few gaps in the wood caused by my rubbish cutting/maths skills. Should I make it again I'd move the output over to the far-right as I've noticed it's possible to knock the cable when going mad on the filter (you should only touch a synthesisers knobs as if they are really hot, otherwise you're not a real synthesist). I've been learning C for a while, but it's a massive mountain to climb. From here though I've bought the following book; When I eventually get around to reading it, it should give me a better idea of what's going on in the code, then I'd like to attempt a version 2 using maybe an Arduino Due and add some more controls. Thanks! ****UPDATE**** SIMPLIFIED SCHEMATICS Below is a simplified schematic for the string synth... Sorry it's not the best quality I'll try and take a better picture later, but hopefully this should be of help those of you new to schematics that want to try and build this synth. The connections where it says 'goes to keyboard', you can see elsewhere in this blog for another detailed diagram of where and how these can be wired up to the keys. As for the potentiometers, I *think* I've drawn them the correct way (if you make this and the pots are working the opposite as you'd expect, swap around the ground and 5v connections on each pot). If the drawing is incorrect, let me know and I'll re-do it. Even if this version is wrong, nothing will break & it'll still work OK (just the pots will work in reverse). You can see where the pots 5volt and ground connections need to go in the diagram, I didn't join them in the picture because the wires would start overlapping and become confusing. It's pretty obvious what to do though. Also drawn is the audio out headphone socket, with the positive voltage/audio signal coming from the output D11, which then goes through the resister/capacitor (which acts as a filter to reduce some of the noise from the Arduino). The other side of the audio goes to the ground signal. If you don't know how to wire up a audio jack, maybe google 'audio jack pin-out' or 'audio socket wiring diagram'. If you plan on adding the analogue filter, you'd leave off the audio jack and have the previously mention positive wire go into the input of the filter. You'll have to learn to read the schematic for that I'm afraid, as I couldn't really simplify it without it becoming more complicated than a normal schematic. Give me a shout if you get stuck though. Good luck! P.S I'll draw a simplified schematic for the Arduino drum machine soon. ****UPDATE PART 2****** Below is a wiring diagram to add a bypass switch to the filter; ...And if you were struggling to figure out how to wire up the Pots for the filter, I've drawn out a simple picture showing how (I've had to do this whilst away traveling, so it's partly drawn from memory but I'm pretty certain it's correct)... Obviously the drawing only shows how the pots are wired and not the full schematic. Go look at the proper schematic for the rest of the plans, but this will give you a good idea of how to wire up the pots. Powering the filter from a 9v Battery will give it it a bit more 'oomph', so if you'd like to do that, the below illustration will give you an idea. Further, should you want an LED indicator showing if the filter is switched on or not, see the chequered box; I only had SPDT switches available when I built the synth, so that's why there's separate switches for both the on/off & bypass, but you could easily just use one 2PDT to save space. You could even add an audio in jack at the start of the filter to process other audio. Good luck! ***UPDATE Arduino Drum Machine**** Simplified Schematic Ok, so this 'simplified' schematic might not actually make things any simpler! But some people have asked for it, so maybe it'll help clear somethings up a little bit - especially how to wire up the audio output and pots/switches. This was drawn from memory so I hope it's correct - give me a shout if not and I'll update (the pots might work in reverse, but they'll still work). I'd also urge you to look at the schematic on Jan Ostman's website for more help; https://janostman.wordpress.com/the-o2-source-code/ Thanks!

This Beautiful DIY Arduino String Synth With Analog Filter Cost $60

This $60 DIY hardware synthesizer made by Gary Jorg White sounds a lot better than you might imagine. Yes, it cost $60 in parts! Watch the video of it in action and learn how to make your own here.

Synth-building culture in Indonesia: An Interview with Lintang Radittya by Zacharias Szumer

Despite limited materials or professional instruction, Indonesia has an active and highly-creative DIY synth-building community. Apart from being given a ‘solder-your-own light-sensor noise m…

My First Synth: The kid synth came about as I sat hunched over a tangled mess of synthesizer wires. My friend Oliver came over, assessed the situation, and said, "You know you have succeeded in making the world's most complicated children's toy." While my initial r…

DIY Arduino String Synth With Analogue Filter ***Updates at bottom of page - Easy to read Schematics etc**** Just like the Arduino Drum Machine, this is another build based on the amazing work of Jan Ostman, who is generous enough to share the code over on his website; ***Old website*** https://janostman.wordpress.com/how-to-build-your-very-own-string-synth/ ***New Website*** http://synthworks.eu/arduino-string-synthesizer/ The suggested $3 dollar donation is quite simply amazing value for money, so if you use this, don't forget to tip! On top of Jan's work, I've added a 12db filter with resonance (based on this design) to add a bit more sound sculpting to the synth. Filters are a massive part of synthesis to me (mainly because I can't play but can quite happily turn knob) and an analogue filter really adds to the warmth 'wobble' of the synth. The filter has a separate on/off switch and bypass switch. Looking back it would've been better to build that into one switch, and also to move the output further to the right. Ahhh the power of hindsight. I wanted the synth to look very Minimoog-ish or Prophet 5-ish, which I think I achieved, but building the case was by far and away the hardest part of the build (due to my own inexperience/stupidity). Total build time was spread over 3 months and probably took about 20 hours (most of that time was spent staring at nothing trying to think what to do next). If I were to make it again I think I could get it down to about ten hours, if luck was on my side. Here's a quick video of it in action; Parts The total cost of parts came to about €60, with most of that going on the MIDITECH midi keyboard. I used a cheap Chinese Arduino Nano clone to keep the cost down (around €2), then a few pots and resistors etc again from China. Also high quality plywood from Modulor for €2.90 (I think it was 6.5cmx250x500). The perspex was also from Modulor. Obviously if you don't already own wood stain and glue etc your cost will be significantly higher. For the panels I used my banggood laser engraver, which I think adds massively to the look of the synth. If you don't have one of these you could use a label printer. Electronics Jan's website documents the build process pretty well, so go check there for schematics etc. I did manage to draw up the wiring diagram which may save somebody a bit of time when hooking up the keys (find it somewhere below). I started by taking apart the MIDITECH and unplugging the ribbon cables; You won't need this part any longer so remove it to save some space; I soldered the Arduino Nano to some perfboard to make it easier to handle (and to screw down to the chassis later on). Then using some ribbon cables I began to figure out how to connect the keyboards out's with the Arduino's In's. Eventually I figured out what went where and soldered it all down and covered the connectors with heat-shrink. You'll probably save a bit of time if you use this; That's the majority of the synth finished! From the nano's output I added a bypass switch and then the 12db filter. I forgot to take any pictures of that though until it was already attached - sorry! But it all fitted onto another small perf-board; The Case I started by cutting some cheap board and securing the key-bed onto it. This gave me an idea of the final size of the synth to which I based my design around. I kept the bottom plastic of the MIDITECH (always capitals!) keyboard because it would secure down easier (using it's screw holes) and also because it would probably be a pain to try and re-construct it any other way. I also added some 'feet' at this point. Feet... With bottom panel size known, I sketched out the rest of the case... The side panels; All the parts have been cut here (the other bit of perspex with the dials on was temporary just to make sure it was still working); Notice the pencil with my name written on it. That's mine it is. Then using my old friend Ponal Wood glue I started sticking everything together (including fingers, clothes and everything else); Then it was time to design the front panel and the laser engrave it onto perspex. The smell was awful (and toxic)... I stayed in the room long enough to feel faint. I did sleep well that night though. Running a test on card; Burn! After it was engraved I filled it in with white acrylic paint; With the panels and case completed it was time to stain the wood. I used a mahogany brown stain, using two or three coats. The trick here is not to use to0 much and to keep it moving when it's been applied, otherwise you'll get an uneven finish. Once this had dried it was time to add the varnish. Like with the stain, I find it's best to use only a tiny amount and spread it out as much as possible to get the best finish (you can always add another layer later). With this synth I found one layer to be enough; Once this has dried you can now put it all together. For extra security I also used some hot glue to do this (and it's not fallen apart yet) I added screws to secure the perspex panel but can't find a picture of that. But I'm sure you can imagine what it looks like. Conclusion Overall I'm pretty happy with how it turned out, with only a few gaps in the wood caused by my rubbish cutting/maths skills. Should I make it again I'd move the output over to the far-right as I've noticed it's possible to knock the cable when going mad on the filter (you should only touch a synthesisers knobs as if they are really hot, otherwise you're not a real synthesist). I've been learning C for a while, but it's a massive mountain to climb. From here though I've bought the following book; When I eventually get around to reading it, it should give me a better idea of what's going on in the code, then I'd like to attempt a version 2 using maybe an Arduino Due and add some more controls. Thanks! ****UPDATE**** SIMPLIFIED SCHEMATICS Below is a simplified schematic for the string synth... Sorry it's not the best quality I'll try and take a better picture later, but hopefully this should be of help those of you new to schematics that want to try and build this synth. The connections where it says 'goes to keyboard', you can see elsewhere in this blog for another detailed diagram of where and how these can be wired up to the keys. As for the potentiometers, I *think* I've drawn them the correct way (if you make this and the pots are working the opposite as you'd expect, swap around the ground and 5v connections on each pot). If the drawing is incorrect, let me know and I'll re-do it. Even if this version is wrong, nothing will break & it'll still work OK (just the pots will work in reverse). You can see where the pots 5volt and ground connections need to go in the diagram, I didn't join them in the picture because the wires would start overlapping and become confusing. It's pretty obvious what to do though. Also drawn is the audio out headphone socket, with the positive voltage/audio signal coming from the output D11, which then goes through the resister/capacitor (which acts as a filter to reduce some of the noise from the Arduino). The other side of the audio goes to the ground signal. If you don't know how to wire up a audio jack, maybe google 'audio jack pin-out' or 'audio socket wiring diagram'. If you plan on adding the analogue filter, you'd leave off the audio jack and have the previously mention positive wire go into the input of the filter. You'll have to learn to read the schematic for that I'm afraid, as I couldn't really simplify it without it becoming more complicated than a normal schematic. Give me a shout if you get stuck though. Good luck! P.S I'll draw a simplified schematic for the Arduino drum machine soon. ****UPDATE PART 2****** Below is a wiring diagram to add a bypass switch to the filter; ...And if you were struggling to figure out how to wire up the Pots for the filter, I've drawn out a simple picture showing how (I've had to do this whilst away traveling, so it's partly drawn from memory but I'm pretty certain it's correct)... Obviously the drawing only shows how the pots are wired and not the full schematic. Go look at the proper schematic for the rest of the plans, but this will give you a good idea of how to wire up the pots. Powering the filter from a 9v Battery will give it it a bit more 'oomph', so if you'd like to do that, the below illustration will give you an idea. Further, should you want an LED indicator showing if the filter is switched on or not, see the chequered box; I only had SPDT switches available when I built the synth, so that's why there's separate switches for both the on/off & bypass, but you could easily just use one 2PDT to save space. You could even add an audio in jack at the start of the filter to process other audio. Good luck! ***UPDATE Arduino Drum Machine**** Simplified Schematic Ok, so this 'simplified' schematic might not actually make things any simpler! But some people have asked for it, so maybe it'll help clear somethings up a little bit - especially how to wire up the audio output and pots/switches. This was drawn from memory so I hope it's correct - give me a shout if not and I'll update (the pots might work in reverse, but they'll still work). I'd also urge you to look at the schematic on Jan Ostman's website for more help; https://janostman.wordpress.com/the-o2-source-code/ Thanks!

Dan McPharlin is an Australian designer that builds miniature analog synths and other vintage audio equipment. Have a look. Source: Designboom Dan McPharlin's website

DIY Synth Series Part 1 — The Exponential VCO

Build a 1V octave voltage-controlled oscillator (VCO) module and create your own analogue synth sounds.

DIY Arduino String Synth With Analogue Filter ***Updates at bottom of page - Easy to read Schematics etc**** Just like the Arduino Drum Machine, this is another build based on the amazing work of Jan Ostman, who is generous enough to share the code over on his website; ***Old website*** https://janostman.wordpress.com/how-to-build-your-very-own-string-synth/ ***New Website*** http://synthworks.eu/arduino-string-synthesizer/ The suggested $3 dollar donation is quite simply amazing value for money, so if you use this, don't forget to tip! On top of Jan's work, I've added a 12db filter with resonance (based on this design) to add a bit more sound sculpting to the synth. Filters are a massive part of synthesis to me (mainly because I can't play but can quite happily turn knob) and an analogue filter really adds to the warmth 'wobble' of the synth. The filter has a separate on/off switch and bypass switch. Looking back it would've been better to build that into one switch, and also to move the output further to the right. Ahhh the power of hindsight. I wanted the synth to look very Minimoog-ish or Prophet 5-ish, which I think I achieved, but building the case was by far and away the hardest part of the build (due to my own inexperience/stupidity). Total build time was spread over 3 months and probably took about 20 hours (most of that time was spent staring at nothing trying to think what to do next). If I were to make it again I think I could get it down to about ten hours, if luck was on my side. Here's a quick video of it in action; Parts The total cost of parts came to about €60, with most of that going on the MIDITECH midi keyboard. I used a cheap Chinese Arduino Nano clone to keep the cost down (around €2), then a few pots and resistors etc again from China. Also high quality plywood from Modulor for €2.90 (I think it was 6.5cmx250x500). The perspex was also from Modulor. Obviously if you don't already own wood stain and glue etc your cost will be significantly higher. For the panels I used my banggood laser engraver, which I think adds massively to the look of the synth. If you don't have one of these you could use a label printer. Electronics Jan's website documents the build process pretty well, so go check there for schematics etc. I did manage to draw up the wiring diagram which may save somebody a bit of time when hooking up the keys (find it somewhere below). I started by taking apart the MIDITECH and unplugging the ribbon cables; You won't need this part any longer so remove it to save some space; I soldered the Arduino Nano to some perfboard to make it easier to handle (and to screw down to the chassis later on). Then using some ribbon cables I began to figure out how to connect the keyboards out's with the Arduino's In's. Eventually I figured out what went where and soldered it all down and covered the connectors with heat-shrink. You'll probably save a bit of time if you use this; That's the majority of the synth finished! From the nano's output I added a bypass switch and then the 12db filter. I forgot to take any pictures of that though until it was already attached - sorry! But it all fitted onto another small perf-board; The Case I started by cutting some cheap board and securing the key-bed onto it. This gave me an idea of the final size of the synth to which I based my design around. I kept the bottom plastic of the MIDITECH (always capitals!) keyboard because it would secure down easier (using it's screw holes) and also because it would probably be a pain to try and re-construct it any other way. I also added some 'feet' at this point. Feet... With bottom panel size known, I sketched out the rest of the case... The side panels; All the parts have been cut here (the other bit of perspex with the dials on was temporary just to make sure it was still working); Notice the pencil with my name written on it. That's mine it is. Then using my old friend Ponal Wood glue I started sticking everything together (including fingers, clothes and everything else); Then it was time to design the front panel and the laser engrave it onto perspex. The smell was awful (and toxic)... I stayed in the room long enough to feel faint. I did sleep well that night though. Running a test on card; Burn! After it was engraved I filled it in with white acrylic paint; With the panels and case completed it was time to stain the wood. I used a mahogany brown stain, using two or three coats. The trick here is not to use to0 much and to keep it moving when it's been applied, otherwise you'll get an uneven finish. Once this had dried it was time to add the varnish. Like with the stain, I find it's best to use only a tiny amount and spread it out as much as possible to get the best finish (you can always add another layer later). With this synth I found one layer to be enough; Once this has dried you can now put it all together. For extra security I also used some hot glue to do this (and it's not fallen apart yet) I added screws to secure the perspex panel but can't find a picture of that. But I'm sure you can imagine what it looks like. Conclusion Overall I'm pretty happy with how it turned out, with only a few gaps in the wood caused by my rubbish cutting/maths skills. Should I make it again I'd move the output over to the far-right as I've noticed it's possible to knock the cable when going mad on the filter (you should only touch a synthesisers knobs as if they are really hot, otherwise you're not a real synthesist). I've been learning C for a while, but it's a massive mountain to climb. From here though I've bought the following book; When I eventually get around to reading it, it should give me a better idea of what's going on in the code, then I'd like to attempt a version 2 using maybe an Arduino Due and add some more controls. Thanks! ****UPDATE**** SIMPLIFIED SCHEMATICS Below is a simplified schematic for the string synth... Sorry it's not the best quality I'll try and take a better picture later, but hopefully this should be of help those of you new to schematics that want to try and build this synth. The connections where it says 'goes to keyboard', you can see elsewhere in this blog for another detailed diagram of where and how these can be wired up to the keys. As for the potentiometers, I *think* I've drawn them the correct way (if you make this and the pots are working the opposite as you'd expect, swap around the ground and 5v connections on each pot). If the drawing is incorrect, let me know and I'll re-do it. Even if this version is wrong, nothing will break & it'll still work OK (just the pots will work in reverse). You can see where the pots 5volt and ground connections need to go in the diagram, I didn't join them in the picture because the wires would start overlapping and become confusing. It's pretty obvious what to do though. Also drawn is the audio out headphone socket, with the positive voltage/audio signal coming from the output D11, which then goes through the resister/capacitor (which acts as a filter to reduce some of the noise from the Arduino). The other side of the audio goes to the ground signal. If you don't know how to wire up a audio jack, maybe google 'audio jack pin-out' or 'audio socket wiring diagram'. If you plan on adding the analogue filter, you'd leave off the audio jack and have the previously mention positive wire go into the input of the filter. You'll have to learn to read the schematic for that I'm afraid, as I couldn't really simplify it without it becoming more complicated than a normal schematic. Give me a shout if you get stuck though. Good luck! P.S I'll draw a simplified schematic for the Arduino drum machine soon. ****UPDATE PART 2****** Below is a wiring diagram to add a bypass switch to the filter; ...And if you were struggling to figure out how to wire up the Pots for the filter, I've drawn out a simple picture showing how (I've had to do this whilst away traveling, so it's partly drawn from memory but I'm pretty certain it's correct)... Obviously the drawing only shows how the pots are wired and not the full schematic. Go look at the proper schematic for the rest of the plans, but this will give you a good idea of how to wire up the pots. Powering the filter from a 9v Battery will give it it a bit more 'oomph', so if you'd like to do that, the below illustration will give you an idea. Further, should you want an LED indicator showing if the filter is switched on or not, see the chequered box; I only had SPDT switches available when I built the synth, so that's why there's separate switches for both the on/off & bypass, but you could easily just use one 2PDT to save space. You could even add an audio in jack at the start of the filter to process other audio. Good luck! ***UPDATE Arduino Drum Machine**** Simplified Schematic Ok, so this 'simplified' schematic might not actually make things any simpler! But some people have asked for it, so maybe it'll help clear somethings up a little bit - especially how to wire up the audio output and pots/switches. This was drawn from memory so I hope it's correct - give me a shout if not and I'll update (the pots might work in reverse, but they'll still work). I'd also urge you to look at the schematic on Jan Ostman's website for more help; https://janostman.wordpress.com/the-o2-source-code/ Thanks!

How to start a synth DIY adventure? A list of possibilities depending on your skills, example sound synthesizer projects for beginners and advanced music enthusiasts.

What's it like to get sucked into a black hole and travel at hypersonic speeds through a wormhole? Alan Watts built this Arduino-based psychedelic spacetime visualizer to find out.

Lunchbox Synth: Crammed a digital delay, spring reverb and function generator into a lunchbox. The fact that it says korg is sort of a synth geek joke. _ Big thanks go out to tonepad.com and generalguitargadgets.com for being such great resources for this beginn…

DIY Arduino String Synth With Analogue Filter ***Updates at bottom of page - Easy to read Schematics etc**** Just like the A...

The History, Mystery and Romance of Magnetic Tape- Open Reel and Cassette...... Nakamichi, TDK, TEAC, Akai, Aiwa, Onkyo, Sony, BASF, Thats, Pioneer

8 DIY analogue synthesizers you can build at home

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DIY Synth + MIDI Controller: Want to be able to control your DIY Synth with MIDI ? Play it with a keyboard or sequence it in your favourite Audio editing software?

**Update** The full build guide is now available here: **End of update** Let's add a low pass filter to our synth! So in the third part of the tutorial for our little synth, we'll add a LPF. We'll use two B10k pots, one for the Cut-off and one for the the resonance. The cut-off pot also has a 220 ohm resistor on it's ground lug. Here's how it should look now; And how it looks on the breadboard; It's actually turning into quite a nice expressive synth. Here's a link to the code; https://github.com/gary909/Helios-Arduino-Synth-V3/blob/master/heliosv3.ino Hopefully it should all be self-explanatory in the comments of the code. The Arduino analog pots return a value of 0 - 1023, but the mozzi filter only needs a value of 0 - 255. Originally I converted this using the map function, but then after reading through Arduino for Musicians by Brent Edstrom, I saw that it was quicker/less resource intensive to bit-shift the sum >>2. The original map function is still in the code (commented out)... I think I could hear an audible difference but I could just be going mad (the bit shift version was smoother?). Feel free to give it a try. The part I struggled with was the updateAudio function... somehow you had to pass the output of the oscillator into the filter. I did this by wrapping the original code into a new char, then passing that into the filter. Take a look at the code, or even better compare it to the old V2 code. Playing with the mozzie examples, the Arduino book, and various other examples on the web, I managed to get it to work, but it would distort/cut out. So I added a resistor on the Cut-off pot, and also increased the bit shifting on the updateAudio function from 8 to 10. It's a bit quieter now, but still usable. We might end up adding an amp on the output to boost the signal, but we'll wait and see until it's finished. Hopefully I shall have time to create part 4 soon... but I haven't actually figured out what to add and we're running out of analog inputs (our last two!). I think maybe an LFO... Part 2 Part 1 Thanks!

How to start a synth DIY adventure? A list of possibilities depending on your skills, example sound synthesizer projects for beginners and advanced music enthusiasts.

2.1 Million Views in 6 Days… What Made This MIDI Synth’s Launch Video SO Viral? - Yanko Design

https://youtu.be/Ivuy9QYLFVY Visually, the Nopia looks like quite a basic synth. No display unit, no labeling, basic construction, and just 12 keys... yet the synth's launch video has over 2 million views since its debut last week, and the Nopia Instagram page has more than 17 thousand followers. If you're wondering why, just give the video

How to start a synth DIY adventure? A list of possibilities depending on your skills, example sound synthesizer projects for beginners and advanced music enthusiasts.

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Synth DIY - how to start

Synth DIY - how to start

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Synth DIY - how to start

Synth DIY - how to start

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Synth DIY - how to start

Synth DIY - how to start

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DIY Arduino String Synth

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Synth DIY - how to start

Synth DIY - how to start

Synth DIY - how to start

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Synth DIY - how to start

2.1 Million Views in 6 Days… What Made This MIDI Synth’s Launch Video SO Viral? - Yanko Design

Synth DIY - how to start