What do you expect to see in a forest? If you said trees! you're the best! Like all biomes these forests have unique trees and plants that happily live there. You will continue your book as you learn!
We took one trip onshore to visit the rain forest on one of the islands in Southeast Alaska. I was captivated by the lush green forest.
Found in isolated pockets around the world from Japan to Chile, temperate rainforests are dense, damp, and teeming with life.
Explore the best trails near Cottage Grove with hand-curated trail maps and driving directions as well as detailed reviews and photos from hikers, campers and nature lovers like you.
Coastal temperate rain forest, Drift Creek, Oregon.
Found in isolated pockets around the world from Japan to Chile, temperate rainforests are dense, damp, and teeming with life.
Found in isolated pockets around the world from Japan to Chile, temperate rainforests are dense, damp, and teeming with life.
Only fragments of Britain’s “temperate rainforest” remain – here’s some tips to help you identify one when you come across it.
Horseradish - a root that yields strong opinions... I love it! http://www.bumblebeeblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/horseradish-2.jpg Common Name: Horseradish Scientific Name: Amoracia rusticana Family: Brassicaceae (the Mustard and Broccoli family) A well tended Horseradish patch http://houseandgardenningaddicts.files.wordpress.com/2010/07/horseradish.jpg Description: Horseradish is a fairly well known condiment with its spicy, sinus-clearing, pungent flavor. This plant, with its famous roots, also has edible leaves, confuses garden pests with its scent, and can be grown in almost any location. A perfect plant for the Edible Food Forest. "Horseradish, plate 415 from 'A Curious Herbal'" oil on Canvas http://www.wikigallery.org/wiki/painting_333543/Elizabeth-Blackwell/Horseradish,-plate-415-from-'A-Curious-Herbal' History: Likely originating from southeastern Europe and western Asia, horseradish was popular with the ancient Greeks, Egyptians, and Romans. It was popular during medieval times in Europe and Britain as a food and medicine. European colonists brought horseradish to North America. Today it is used all over the world. Trivia: Whole Horseradish roots have almost no aroma, but once the root’s cells are ruptured (from cutting or grating), the enzymes released will convert the naturally produced root compound sinigrin into the highly aromatic allyl isothiocyanate (a.k.a. mustard oil). The English name “Horseradish” likely came about through ignorance. The German name for this plant is meerrettich (meer = sea; rettich = radish). At some point this was mistakenly called mahrrettich (mahr = mare (female horse); rettich = radish). It is not a far leap for someone to mistakenly translate the mare radish to horse radish. Processing Horseradish requires a well-ventilated location! http://blog.khymos.org/wp-content/2010/12/HRP_grated.jpg USING THIS PLANT Primary Uses: Roots – typically grated raw and mixed with vinegar; may be sliced and cooked like other tubers or carrots/parsnips; can be dried, then ground to a powder, but it is not as strongly flavored as fresh. Leaves – “Horseradish Greens” are edible, and reportedly have a horseradish flavor. I’ve never tried them, but I think they could be used raw in small amounts in a mixed green salad or used cooked as a spinach replacement. Also used in pickling cucumbers to keep the cucumbers crunchy (as are grape leaves). Secondary Uses: General insect (especially bees) pollen plant Aromatic Pest Confusor Pioneer Species Yield: Variable, but roots can grow to over 20 inches (50 cm) long and 2 inches (5 cm) thick. Harvesting: Leaves – smaller, new growth ideal for salads; older growth best cooked. Roots – As desired. The plant grows the most during late Summer and early Autumn, so waiting until just before the ground freezes (depending on your location) will give you the maximum yield. Alternatively, you can harvest in the Spring. Dig a hole or trench 12-24 inches (30-60 cm) deep along the plant, then from the opposite side dig the roots back to the hole. Grab the base of the greens and pull the roots out laterally toward the hole. Use the largest taproots for processing, and use the smaller roots for Spring planting stock if harvested in Autumn or immediately if harvested in Spring. NOTE – Horseradish roots older than 2 years can get stringy and woody. In a Forest Garden, we can harvest in the Spring and replant smaller roots immediately, or we can leave a patch of horseradish growing and harvest from the outer ring or just toss the woody roots in the compost bin or in the forest to compost in place. Prepared Horseradish, grated with vinegar and salt http://www.nordinfarms.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2008/10/horseradish_02.jpg Processing: Leaves – use as any other green Roots – peel the brown “skin” off the root; roughly chop; add to a food processor or blender with a little bit of water or you can use a simple vegetable grater or food grinder (whatever way you choose, do so where you have a breeze to blow the fumes away!); add a tablespoon of white vinegar (white wine or distilled vinegar) and a pinch of salt for every 10 inches (25 cm) of root (or 2-3 tablespoons vinegar and ¼ - ½ teaspoon salt per each 1 cup grated horseradish). Vinegar stops the enzymes from converting the sinigrin to the hot mustard oil, so add vinegar immediately after grating for mild and wait for about 3 minutes for hot horseradish. Storage: Leaves – use immediately Roots – Use immediately for best flavor. Can be stored in dry sand for a few months (a cooler location will keep for longer – ideally under 40 F (4 C) but above freezing); this dry sand storage is a great place to put Spring planting stock. If wrapped in plastic and placed in the coldest part of the refrigerator, it may stay good for a few months. Light will turn the roots green. Processed, refrigerated horseradish will last about a month. Braised Horseradish Greens with Bacon http://www.chefsconsortium.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/horseradish2.jpg DESIGNING WITH THIS PLANT USDA Hardiness Zone: 2-10 (although some sources are more conservative at 5-8) AHS Heat Zone: 12-1 Chill Requirement: Not likely, but not good information available Plant Type: Large Herbaceous Plant Leaf Type: Deciduous Forest Garden Use: Underground Layer, Herbaceous Layer Cultivars/Varieties: There are only a few named cultivars. Pollination: Self-fertile Flowering: Late Spring to early Summer (May-June) Life Span: No good information available as we typically harvest roots of plants less than 2 years old. When Horseradish blooms, it attracts beneficial insects http://www.grit.com/uploadedImages/GRT/articles/issues/2009-05-01/OttmarBierwagen_A298M-2302X.jpg PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS OF THIS PLANT Size: 3 feet (0.9 meters) tall and as wide as you allow it to grow Roots: Large taproots Growth Rate: Fast Horseradish can be grown in a wide variety of soils and locations http://www.chefsconsortium.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/horseradish2.jpg GROWING CONDITIONS FOR THIS PLANT Light: Prefers full sun Shade: Tolerates moderate shade Moisture: Dry to moist soils, but prefers soil a bit more damp pH: 5.1-8.5 (tolerates a wide range of soil conditions) Special Considerations for Growing: Reported to inhibit brown rot if planted under apple trees. Propagation: Typically from root cuttings or divisions in Spring; ideally at least 8 inches (20 cm) in length. Any root will likely grow to a new plant. Seed is not typically produced in plants grown in modern cultivation, but if a patch is allowed to mature, then seed will likely form. Seed is best sown in place. Maintenance: Minimal. Root Rot can develop – just replant strong roots and compost the rest. Some insects can cause extensive leaf damage in traditional gardens; this doesn’t affect the roots much and should be less of a problem in a Forest Garden. A thorough digging and dividing of the roots every 3-4 years will keep a patch healthy, growing strong, and productive. Concerns: Poisonous – Reportedly, if one consumes a large amount of fresh roots the strong, volatile oils can be poisonous. This is not well researched, nor do I think people typically consume large amounts at any one time! Spreading Habit – some sources state this plant can become invasive by spreading too fast, and other sources state that this rarely occurs.
Follow me on Facebook Follow me on Instagram Gondwana Rainforests of Australia include the most extensive areas of subtropical rainforest in the world, large areas of warm temperate rainforest and nearly all of the Antarctic beech cool temperate rainforest. Few places on earth contain so many plants and animals which remain relatively unchanged from their ancestors in the fossil record. The outstanding geological features displayed around shield volcanic craters and the high number of rare and threatened species are of international significance for science and conservation. The Gondwana Rainforests of Australia World Heritage Area was first inscribed on the World Heritage List in 1986 and extended in 1994. It is what is known as a serial World Heritage Area and is comprised of several protected areas in north-east NSW and south-east Queensland. View large and, as always, thanks for looking!
Temperate grasslands are one of the most important biomes to understand. They play an important role in our survival. They also play an important role in helping to manage climate change.
Photographic wildlife, travel and landscape prints. Capturing the wild, raw beauty of the natural world, with a stylish art aesthetic.
Yarrow is both ancient and modern, and is said to have been used medicinally to treat pain and inflammation for over 50,000 years.
Explore Queenie-v's 2524 photos on Flickr!
A steppe is a dry, grassy plain. Steppes occur in temperate climates, which lie between the tropics and polar regions.
Here's a quick overview of the most common and heritage breeds in the U.S. as well as the more notable breeds from around the world. (photo intensive!)
The Jujube is an uncommon fruit in the West, but very well known in the East. http://images.bidorbuy.co.za/user_images/957/1893957_110725231432_01936-02.jpg Common Name: Jujube, Chinese/Korean/Indian Date, Tsao Scientific Name: Ziziphus zizyphus (a.k.a. Ziziphus jujuba) Family: Rhamnaceae (Buckthorn family) http://www.lecooke.com/cms/images/fruit_photos/Jujube/20090917-_dsc6791-smaller.jpg Showing the size differences of the Jujube fruit http://media.snimka.bg/9472/025199868.jpg Description: The Jujube is a small, drooping, deciduous tree or large shrub with prominent thorns (in most varieties) and small, dark, shiny leaves. The Jujube will produce a small fruit (0.5-2 inches / 1.5-5 cm in diameter) with thin, edible skin that can be eaten fresh and is reminiscent of an apple, or it can be left on the tree will it will shrivel, darken, and dry and looks and tastes like a date. The Jujube can tolerate a wide variety of soil conditions, but a warm to hot summer and plenty of water will give the highest yields. It spreads easily by root suckers and seed, so left unchecked, it can produce a thicket. We can use that to our advantage in using this plant for a hedge or windbreak. I have yet to try one of these fruits, but considering the long history of cultivation, the large number of varieties (over 400!), and the long list of uses (see below), I think it is safe to say that while rare in the U.S., there is ample reason to include this tree in my future forest garden. I am hoping to find some fruit to sample this coming summer. Illustration of Ziziphus zizyphus by Adolphus Ypey, 1813 Tab. 54 from Adolphus Ypey, Vervolg ob de Avbeeldingen der artseny-gewassen met derzelver Nederduitsche en Latynsche beschryvingen, Eersde Deel, 1813 http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Zizyphus_zizyphus_Ypey54-original.jpg History: Likely originating in what is southern Asia, some scholars believe as early at 9,000 BC. Over 400 cultivars have been developed in many parts of Asia. Trivia: The leaves, fruit, and bark are used extensively in traditional Chinese and Korean medicine, and in many places in India and Africa. The most expensive honey in the world is made from flowers of a close relative, Ziziphus spina-christi (Christ's Thorn Jujube or Sidr Tree). The honey sells for about $100 USD per 1 lb (~500 grams). The resin (called Lac) secreted from the scale insect (Kerria lacca) after it feeds on another close tropical relative of the Jujube tree (Ziziphus mauritiana) is refined and used to make a high quality shellac for fine lacquer work. The Jujube was first introduced in Texas in 1875. Dried Jujubes http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5047/5220720422_1052869280.jpg USING THIS PLANT Primary Uses: Fresh eating Dried - eaten as is or mixed in delicacies, often cooked Smoked Cooking and baking - use fresh as you would apples, use dried as you would dates Secondary Uses: General insect (especially bees) nectar plant Shade tree Windbreak Hedge Erosion control Can be preserved, stored in liquor - known as jiu zao ("spirited jujube") Alcohol from distilled fermented fruit pulp Used as flavoring in teas Dried fruit can be used as a coffee substitute Juiced Jams, Jellies Vinegared Pickled Fruit Butter - make like apple butter Candied Dried fruit can be ground into a powder and used in a variety of ways Young leaves can be cooked and eaten as a vegetable, but not reported to have a great flavor Can be coppiced Firewood Charcoal Woodworking - wood is hard and strong and close-grained Bark and root used in dyeing (brown, grey, or reddish colors) Bark and root used in tanning Yield: 20-60 lbs (9-27 kg) per year Harvesting: Mid summer - autumn. However, Jujube Trees will flower through the whole growing season with fruit ripening throughout the middle to end of the growing season. The fruit will not ripen off the tree. Storage: Fresh fruit does not keep well (about a week), but dried fruits can last for months in a cool, dry environment Ziziphus zizyphus has small, almost non-descript flowers, but bees like them! http://www.southernmatters.com/Bee_Plant/htm/images/x--jujube_flower_close.jpg Great image showing the leaves of the Jujube. http://www.olelantana.com/images/zizyphus%20jujuba2.jpg DESIGNING WITH THIS PLANT USDA Hardiness Zone: 6-9 AHS Heat Zone: 11-5 Chill Requirement: 50-450 hours/units depending on the species and variety Plant Type: Small Tree to Large Shrub Leaf Type: Deciduous Forest Garden Use: Canopy Tree for small Forest Garden, Sub-Canopy (Understory), Shrub Cultivars/Varieties: Many varieties available (over 400!). Pollination: Most require cross-pollination. While many are Self-Pollinating/Self-Fertile, yields with these cultivars are likely higher with cross-pollination Flowering: April-May (late spring through summer), but will often flower throughout the growing season Life Span: Years to Begin Bearing: 3-4 years from seed Years to Maximum Bearing: No good data, but likely just a few years after fruit production begins Years of Useful Life: No good data, but many reports show this to be a long lived tree The bark of a Jujube tree. http://pics.davesgarden.com/pics/2004/08/25/htop/de5e50.jpg PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS OF THIS PLANT Size: 16-32 feet (5-10 meters) tall and 23 feet (7 meters) wide Roots: Forms a main, deep taproot, but it is also suckering (the tree will send up shoots from the roots many feet from the main tree) Growth Rate: Fast GROWING CONDITIONS FOR THIS PLANT Light: Prefers full sun Shade: Tolerates very light shade (less than 25%) Moisture: Tolerates a wide variety of moisture levels pH: Tolerates a wide pH range Special Considerations for Growing: None really. Bright sun and hot summers will give best fruit yields. Likely not tolerate of juglones (so don't plant next to walnuts). Propagation: Suckering: divide from mother plant during dormant season.. Seed (requires 3 months stratification). Cuttings: use mature wood of the same season's growth, try to keep at 40-50 F (5-10 C) - a greenhouse in the winter months is ideal. With all methods, try to place plant in permanent location as soon as possible to prevent damage of the main taproot. Maintenance: Minimal. Some branches will often die back each year. While there are a few pests in its home range, in North America, there are almost no pest or disease problems. Concerns: Can spread easily through seed or root suckering. Jujube Sweets Click here for the recipe
Photographic wildlife, travel and landscape prints. Capturing the wild, raw beauty of the natural world, with a stylish art aesthetic.
Simply stunning landscapes on Dartmoor.
Tasmania is now outshining the rest of Australia when it comes to being a recommended tourist destination.
It's only going to get hotter—here's how people in warmer climates deal with extreme heat.
Tourism and adventures are among the most popular things individuals from civilized societies engage in from time to time because of the richness and color they
Staghorn Sumac (Rhus hirta/typhina) is a great addition to the edge of a Forest Garden http://blog.localfoody.net/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/StaghornSumac.jpg Common Name: Sumac Scientific Names: Rhus species Family: Anacardiaceae (the Cashew or Sumac family) Selected Species: Lemon/Fragrant Sumac (Rhus aromatica) Winged/Shining/Dwarf Sumac (Rhus copallina) Elm-Leaved Sumac (Rhus coriaria) Smooth Sumac (Rhus glabra) Staghorn Sumac (Rhus hirta/typhina) Punjab Sumac (Rhus punjabensis) Sourberry/Skunkbush (Rhus trilobata) Northern Hybrid Sumac (Rhux x pulvinata) Harvested berry clusters of the Staghorn Sumac (Rhus hirta/typhina). http://media.photobucket.com/image/recent/Daytraderwon/Camp2/IMG_3633.jpg Description: Sumacs are a large family of shrubs, about 250 species, that primarily originate from North America and Africa. The shrubs from North America are best known for its lemony-tart fruit which was used by natives to make natural “pink lemonade”. In the Mediterranean, the flesh of the sumac berry is dried, ground, and used as a lemony spice. This was a common seasoning I really enjoyed while living in Turkey. All sumacs are drought resistant once established, larger species can be used as windbreaks, and smaller species are used as ornamentals. Many varieties are now being used around the world for prevention of soil erosion. They are all fantastic nectar and pollen sources for bees and other beneficial insects as well as providing Winter food and shelter in the thickets these plants can form if allowed. History: Native to North America and Africa, Sumac plants were used by natives for food (drink) and medicine. In more recent times, they have been "discovered" by landscapers and used as ornamental plants; however, there has been very little development of these plants, and so they remain rather “wild”. Trivia: While closely related to Poison Sumac (Rhus toxicodendron), Poison oak (Rhus diversiloba) and Poison sumac (Rhus vernix), the species listed in this article are not poisonous. The powdered spice from the fruit of the Elm-Leaved Sumac (R. coriaria) is mixed with Syrian Oregano (Origanum vulgare syriacum) and other available spices (Basil, Thyme, etc) in the famous spice mix, Za'atar The fruit of the Smooth Sumac (R. glabra). http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7010/6691304109_ab789d814d_z.jpg Sumac-ade from the Smooth Sumac (R. glabra) - all edible Sumac can make this drink! http://the3foragers.blogspot.pt/2011_07_01_archive.html USING THIS PLANT Primary Uses: Fresh Eating - the fruit from Sumacs are small and very tart, so few people choose to eat them fresh Tea or Drink made from the berries – traditionally, you can place fruit into water and let soak in the sun to make a “pink lemonade”. Too hot of water releases the bitter tannins. But you can get a more concentrated juice by using some modern technology (here is a link to a site with a fantastic explanation of how to do this) Dried fruit may be ground (without the seed) and used as a spice – popular in Middle Eastern cuisine Immature fruit of some species (R. coriaria) can be used as a caper substitute Ornamental plant - flowers in Spring, fruit in the Summer, and crimson foliage in Autumn Secondary Uses: General insect (especially bees) nectar plant Food source for wildlife – especially birds in Winter Thickets can create habitat for small birds and mammals and other wildlife Windbreaks (small to large) – can form thickets that are great at blocking or directing wind Prevention of soil erosion – thanks to fibrous network of roots Dyes can be made from all parts of the plant (leaves – brown, roots – yellow, inner bark – orange). It is also used as a mordant (substance that sets the dye). Ink – boiling leaves and fruit. Tanning Shoots can be used to make strong “pipes” which have been used for tapping maple trees and making flutes Some species can grow in maritime enviroments (Staghorn Sumac for sure, not clear on the other species) Yield: No reliable information Harvesting: October - December. Storage: Best used fresh or dried Sumac first turns orange in Autumn - Staghorn Sumac (Rhus hirta/typhina). http://greenspade.com/wp-content/gallery/rhus-typhina/rhus-typhina-habit-fall.jpg ...and then turns a brilliant red - Winged/Shining/Dwarf Sumac (Rhus copallina) http://www.treetopics.com/rhus_copallina/shining_sumac_0167.png DESIGNING WITH THIS PLANT USDA Hardiness Zone: 3-8 AHS Heat Zone: No reliable information available Chill Requirement:Likely considering the Hardiness Zone and the flowering nature of the plant, but there is no reliable information available Plant Type: Small Tree, Large Shrub, Medium Shrub, and Small Shrub (depending on the species) Leaf Type: Deciduous Forest Garden Use: Canopy Tree for small Forest Garden, Sub-Canopy (Understory), Shrub Layer, or Groundcover (depending on the species/cultivar) Cultivars/Varieties: Very few cultivars have been produced. This is a very “wild” plant Pollination: Staghorn Sumacs are dioecious (meaning there are male and female plants) Flowering: Summer. June-August. Life Span: Years to Begin Bearing: 3-5 years Years of Useful Life: Likely between 30-50 years (less for smaller specimens), but as this plant suckers so easily, this may be irrelevant. Fruit of the tree-sized Punjab Sumac (R. punjabensis) http://www.genobank.org/gdbnew/2009photos/%E9%9D%92%E8%97%8F%E9%AB%98%E5%8E%9F/%E6%9D%A8%E4%BA%B2%E4%BA%8C/RESTULT/YangQE2877/%E6%9E%9CDSC_0693.JPG PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS OF THIS PLANT Size: Lemon/Fragrant Sumac (R. aromatica) - 2-8 feet (0.6-2.4 meters) tall and 6-10 feet (1.8-3 meters) wide Winged/Shining/Dwarf Sumac (R. copallina) - 10-20 feet (3-6 meters) tall and wide, much smaller than the Staghorn Sumac, its relative that grows in the same parts of North America Elm-Leaved Sumac (R. coriaria) - 10 feet (3 meters) tall and wide Smooth Sumac (R. glabra) - 10-15 feet (3-4.5 meters) tall and wide Staghorn Sumac (R. hirta/typhina) - 35-50 feet (10-15 meters) tall and wide, often much shorter Punjab Sumac (R. punjabensis) - 30-40 feet (9-12 meters) tall Sourberry/Skunkbush (R. trilobata) - 4-6 feet (1-1.8 meters) tall and wide Northern Hybrid Sumac (R. x pulvinata) - 6-9 feet (1.8-2.7 meters) tall and 10-15 feet (3-4.5 meters) wide Roots: Fibrous roots that send up suckers which can develop into new plants Growth Rate: Medium - Fast "Gro-Low" cultivar of Lemon or Fragrant Sumac (Rhus aromatica) is a great groundcover. http://www.greenart.com/plantphotos/plnt-comp-shrubs/Rhus%20aromatica-fll.jpg Fruit of the "Gro-Low" Fragrant Sumac (Rhus aromatica cv) http://extension.illinois.edu/photolib/lib17//midsize/gcover%2034a.jpg GROWING CONDITIONS FOR THIS PLANT Light: Prefers full sun Shade: Tolerates light shade Moisture: Medium to dry soils, but can tolerate periods of drought once established pH: most species prefer fairly neutral soil (6.1 - 7.0) Propagation: Seed – germinates well after a 24 hour pre-soak in hot water. Root cuttings and sucker cuttings taken in late Autumn through Winter usually do well. Maintenance: Minimal. If using this plant in the central portions of a Forest Garden, may need to keep the suckering roots from developing new plants – a quick snip of the clippers works well. Concerns: Can spread easily through the suckering roots and/or through seed. This can be great if you are using it as a windbreak, but can create some additional work if you are using it in the middle of a Forest Garden. There are a number of unsubstantiated reports of Sumac being toxic or irritating to the skin, likely from this plant being related to Poison Sumac. This is not true in general; however, any person can develop an allergy to any plant at any time.
Seed Balls: What are they and how do you make them? http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_NAzaPXIdz1o/SiV4FtCP-YI/AAAAAAAAAVM/w8vJLvmzID0/s320/seedballsSprout.jpg Seed balls are a great permaculture technique for spreading seeds in a desired location. These are small balls of clay, compost, and seeds that are dried and are easy to toss. Because they are dried out, the seeds inside do not germinate. They are protected from predators (ants, birds, etc). When the rains come, the clay slowly "melts" away, and the seeds in the compost are ready to germinate and grow. This is an easy project with which even kids can help. Sprouting Seed Balls http://greenmuseum.org/wif/kmiller_seedbomb_sprouting_medium.jpg The basic recipe for seed balls is as follows: 1 part seeds (can be a single species or a seed mix that you make) 3 parts compost (ideally fresh, live compost or humus with mycorrhizal fungi soil inoculates) 5 parts powdered clay (ideally red or brown clay from a pond bank or other natural source, but you can buy red clay used to make terra cotta pots). Water as needed A Single Seed Ball http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Seed_bomb_aka_Seed_ball_(Guerilla_gardening).jpg Instructions for making seed balls: 1. Add 1 part seed mix in a large bowl 2. Add 3 parts compost and mix thoroughly 3. Optional - add dried red pepper powder or other natural irritant to prevent birds/bugs from eating the seeds if the seed balls only partially melt in a light rain 4. Add 5 parts of powdered clay 5. Begin mixing and slowly add water to a "bread dough" consistency 6. Take a small amount and role it into balls about 1 inch in diameter 7. Let dry (ideally in the sun) for 24-48 hrs, until hard 8. Store for use in a dry location 9. Spread anywhere you want your seeds to grow. They can sit in a field for months! Dried Seed Balls Ready To Go! http://aaahhh.org/wp-content/uploads/2006/05/seedballs1.jpg Here is a very good video on making seed balls using a couple of techniques (it is not very well produced, but the information is outstanding). The Von Bachmayr Drum http://www.scribd.com/doc/38353988/Making-Seedbals For those who want to mass produce seed balls, the use of a Von Bachmayr Drum is a huge timesaver. Here is a link to step-by-step instructions for a Von Bachmayr Seed Ball Drum. Here is a human powered rolling drum adapted from the Von Bachmayr design. http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2717/4342336506_bdbd9ed976_b.jpg
The pomelo is the largest citrus fruit in the world, and occurs naturally in south-east Asia. In nature the tree can grow as big as 10 meters tall, but in a temperate climates the plant should be kept in a pot and moved indoors in winter and therefore stays much smaller. The fruits become yellow when they ripen, and can weigh up to 2 kg. They resemble grapefruits (pomelo x orange hybrid), although a pomelo is sweeter and less bitter. The white pulp is surrounded by a thick peel, and the fruits should be cut open in order to eat them. The plant can flower several times per year, and prefer a sunny warm spot. In winter the Pomelo plant can hibernated at a cooler temperature, but cannot tolerate frost. Sowing instructions: Sow the seeds as soon as possible in sowing mix, and let them germinate at a higher temperature (25 degC). Keep the soil constantly moist. Germination within a few weeks.
“Something weird is happening” in the clouds of the planet next door—but some experts are raising doubts about the quality of the data.
Ancylostoma duodenale - Анкилостома Дуоденале е паразит разпространен в целия свят и в тропическите страни, и в райони с умерен климат.
Found in isolated pockets around the world from Japan to Chile, temperate rainforests are dense, damp, and teeming with life.
Green Gooseberries! http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/4/4d/Stachelbeeren-WJP-1.jpg Common Name: Gooseberry Scientific Name: R...
