Вязанные: носки,гетры,обувь | Записи в рубрике Вязанные: носки,гетры,обувь | Дневник Чела

Crochet Leaf Bag Pattern - Design Peak

coses i llanes

Since Advent season starts this weekend, here's a "christmassy" pattern. It's called "Zimtstern" because its look reminds me of the traditional Christmas cookie of the same name (the cookies have cinnamon in them ("Zimt") and are formed as a star ("Stern") - here's a recipe (not mine!)). The Zimtstern mitts are started at the thumb then increased - they combine techniques used in the hexagon mitts and the circle mitts. The stitches in star shape are added as surface crochet (or surface slip stitches) in between the knitted rows. Because of the unusual construction and since surface crochet is fiddly work, the pattern is not really suited for beginners. This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License. German / Deutsch: Eine deutsche Version dieser Anleitung wurde von Bernadette von Törtchens Blog erstellt. Vielen lieben Dank. Details dazu in diesem Blogpost. Danish / Dansk: A danish translation was written by MarianneHo (Ravelry name) and is available here. Hjertelig tak Construction These mitts are knitted in 5 parts: they are started at the thumb and then "grow" in a hexagon (knitted in round and refered to as part 1 and 2 in the pattern), a bind-off of one side of the hexagon creates part of the upper edge the mitts; they then grow bigger in an open hexagon until the edge of the hand is reached (that's part 3 - knitted flat). During part 2 and 3 rows of surface crochet slip stitches are added to create the star pattern. A three needle bind-off creates a seam along the edge of the hand. Now the lower edge of the mitt is lopsided. To even it out a series of short rows is knitted that also include some decreases (part 4 - knitted in the round). With an even lower edge the shaft is lengthened a bit and ribbing is added (part 5). As with the patterns mentioned above, these are knitted in one piece, i.e. no yarn is cut which minimizes the weaving in of ends. Materials about 30 grams of fingering weight yarn - preferably variegated - the yarn I used is called Corolli by Schulana (link to the yarn's Ravelry page) 3mm dpns (even if you prefer the magic loop technique you will need a 3rd needle for a three-needle bind-off) 2.5mm crochet hook 6 stitch markers Gauge / Size 7 sts and 9 rows = 2cm x 2cm the finished mitt is about 20 cm high (highest point) with 15 cm circumference at the lower edge (ribbing) and about 14 cm at the top Techniques and Non-Standard Abbreviations Surface Crochet or surface slip stitches: Using a crochet hook, you make slip stitches through your knitted fabric. The photo on the right shows how it looks when adding surface slip stitches to a knitted fabric. Here's a video and here's a tutorial that both show surface crochet. Three-Needle Bind-Off: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wpJUrCX52DU Short Rows in the Round (and t+ky) I learned short rows in the round with this helpful video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SCgycxLce94; however, I ended up doing the pick-ups differently. "Wrapping" of the Stitches Basically, when you're on the RS, you do wrap the working yarn around the next stitch (from front to back) and then turn your work, i.e. the "normal" wrap and turn (w+t). When you are on the wrong side you slip the last stitch, turn your work with the yarn in front, wrap the yarn around the RIGHT needle and knit the slipped stitch. That creates a sort of double-stitch - one half of it has to be knitted together with the stitch in front when you're picking up the stitches. In the pattern, throughout the pattern I will call this stitch, t+ky (short for "turn and knit w/yarn-over"). Picking-up When encountering a w+t, I turned the wrapped stitch on the needle, picked up the wrap from the front and knitted the stitch and the wrap together through the back of the loop. When reaching the stitch BEFORE the “double-stitch”, I turned this stitch and knitted it together with the yo through the back of the loop. “Make One Purl”-Stitches (a video that shows these stitches): mk1p right-leaning: make one purl stitch by inserting the needle from the back in the bar between the two stitches and purl mk1p left-leaning: make one purl stitch by inserting the needle from the back in the bar between the two stitches and purl through the back of the loop Instructions Part I - Thumb CO18 Join in round Rounds 1-10: *k1tbl p2 (repeat from * till end of round) Round 11: *k1tbl p1, mk1p, p1 (repeat from * till end of round) Rounds 12-15: *k1tbl p1 (repeat from * till end of round) Round 16: *place marker, k1tbl p1 k1tbl p1 (repeat from * till end of round) (You have 24 sts on your needles) Part II - Increases in the Round Round 0: k Round 1: *slip marker, k1, mk1l, k to marker; mk1r (repeat from * till end of round) (after this round you have increased by 12 sts) Round 2: k Round 3: k Round 4: add surface crochet, put the loop from the last stitch on the knitting needle Round 5: pass loop from crochet hook over the first stitch; knit first stitch; k to end, k to end Repeat rounds 1-5 a total of 4 times Then repeat them once more but add a "mini-ribbing" (k1 p1) and bind-off in the last sixth of the hexagon, i.e.: Round 21: *slip marker, k1, mk1l, k to marker; mk1r (repeat from * till end of round) Round 22: k Round 23: k until the last marker k1, *k1 p1 (repeat from *) until last stitch, k1 Round 24: apply surface crochet, put the loop from the last stitch on the knitting needle Round 25: pass loop from crochet hook over the first stitch; knit first stitch; k until the last marker binding off in pattern (i.e. k1, *k1 p1 (repeat from *) until last stitch, k1 - this creates the upper bind-off. (Now you have 70 sts (84 - 14 BO sts) on your needles.) The diagram shows where to insert the surface crochet stitches during part 2. When adding surface crochet, use your working yarn to add slip stitches to the knitted surface, i.e. insert the crochet hook into the first live stitch on the needle and pull the loop, then insert the crochet hook into the stitch below the second stitch and make a slip stitch (see photo), insert the crochet hook into the second stitch below the 3rd stitch on the needle and make a slip stitch; continue slip stitches "one to the left, one down" until you have reached the middle between two markers, then go up again, i.e. make a slip stitch into the stitch one to the left and one above; continue until you have reached a live stitch on the needle - this should be a stitch just after a marker when you have pulled a slip stitch through the stitch below the last stitch of the round, put the loop back on the left knitting needle and pass it over the first stitch of the round. make sure to keep your slip stitches loose, i.e. don't pull them too tight, in order to keep the fabric stretchy insert your knitting needle between the legs of the stitch - except when you are at the upper edge (i.e. life knit stitches on your needle), here you draw the slip stitch through the life stitch. The diagram shows where to put the slip stitches - it shows one sixth of a round or the space between two stitch markers. Part III - Increases knitted flat Complete the BO by slipping the last stitch over the first stitch and continue the pattern flat. Row 1 (RS): * k to marker mk1r slip marker, k1, mk1l (repeat from * until the last marker), k to end (-> after this row you have increased by 8 stitches) Row 2 (WS): p Row 3 (RS): k Row 4: apply surface crochet (on RS), put the loop from the last stitch on the knitting needle Row 5 (RS): k2tog (loop from crochet hook and first stitch on knitting needle); k to end Row 6 (WS): * p to 1 st before marker, mk1p left-leaning, p1, slip marker, make1p right-leaning (repeat from * until last marker), p to end Row 7 (RS): k Row 8 (WS): p Row 9 : apply surface crochet (on RS), put the loop from the last stitch on the knitting needle Row 10 (WS): p2tog (loop from crochet hook and first stitch on knitting needle); p to end Repeat rows 1-7 once again. (You should now have 102 sts on your needles; 4 times increases of 8 sts per row (4*8 = 32), added to the 70 already on the needles: 70+32 = 102) When you're applying the surface crochet in part 3, you don't start through the 1st live stitch on the needles but below (see picture). In the first two instances (rows 4 and 9), this is not a problem because you only need to insert your crochet hook one or two stitches below, i.e. you don't need to draw the yarn too far. Afterwards (row 14) you can bring your yarn down to the starting point of the surface crochet by doing one surface slip stitch on the WS of the mitts. On the diagram below you can see that even though you have finished row 3 for the 2nd time, the first crochet slip stitch would be 3 stitches below the first live stitch. Hold the RS togehter and do a three-needle bind-off 26 stitches. Place a marker ("end-marker") on the back needle and put the last stitch on the back needle: then turn the mitts inside out, so that the RS shows. Part 4 - Short rows to even out the shaft As you can see in the photo, the lower edge of the mitts is now lopsided. This can be evened out by knitting a wedge of short rows. This wedge is highest around end-marker and gets flatter towards the sides, i.e. short rows are knitted around the end-marker that get shorter by 2 stitches each row. At the same time decreases are made around the end-marker in order to finish with 45 stitches before part 5. After the three-needle BO you have 51 sts on your needles (102-26-26+1, the +1 is the one stitch is left after the BO that is placed on the back needle). Row 1: (RS) mk1, k25 w+t (WS) sl1, p21 p2tog p1, slip marker, mk1p, p23 t+ky (RS) k to 3 before end marker, ssk (-> increases and decreases cancel each other out in this row (still 51 sts), the mk1-stitches are used to avoid holes between the stitch left over from the three-needle-BO and the next stitch on either side) Row 2: (RS) k22 w+t (WS) sl1 p19 p2tog p1, slip marker, p2togtbl, p20 t+ky (RS) k2 to end marker (-> decrease by 2 sts, 49 sts) Row 3: (RS) k19 w+t (WS) sl1 p16 p2tog p1, slip marker, p2togtbl, p17 t+ky (RS) k2 to end marker (-> decrease by 2 sts, 47 sts) Row 4: (RS) k16 w+t (WS) sl1 p13 p2tog p1, slip marker, p2togtbl, p14 t+ky (RS) k2 to end marker (-> decrease by 2 sts => there should be 45 stitches on your needles, however, they may be difficult to count because of the double stitches created with the short rows. Row 5: (RS): k13 w+t (WS): sl1 p to end marker, p12 t+ky (RS): k to end marker Row 6: (RS): k11 w+t (WS): sl1 p to end marker, p10 t+ky (RS): k to end marker Row 7: (RS): k9 w+t (WS): sl1 p to end marker, p8 t+ky (RS): k to end marker Row 8: (RS): k7 w+t (WS): sl1 p to end marker, p6 t+ky (RS): k to end marker Row 9: (RS): k5 w+t (WS): sl1 p to end marker, p4 t+ky (RS): k to end marker Knit one round picking up all stitches. Part 5 - Lengthen the shaft and ribbing Knit 5 more rounds. Then do 12 rounds of k1tbl, p2-ribbing. Bind off (loosely) in pattern (or use your favourite stretchy bind-off).

Как можно связать красивые женские и мужские носки спицами не только для себя, но и в подарок, и на продажу - 14 примеров узоров со схемами и описанием

Понравилось - делюсь... Моя бабушка вязала нам носки почти такого цвета (скручивала овечью шерсть и разные остатки...). Размеры 35/37 - 38/39 - 40/42 Длина стопы: 22 - 24 - 26 см

НОСКИ-САПОГИ «СЕВЕРНЫЙ БЕРЕГ» (Вязание спицами) – Журнал Вдохновение Рукодельницы

Leg warmers, a 1980's fashion trend, is making a comeback. Make a statement of your own and keep your legs warm by knitting your very own pair of leg warmers. With patterns for beginners or more those more experienced, any level of knitter is sure to find a leg warmer pattern they enjoy in this hub which features a collection of free knit leg warmer patterns from around the web. Featuring patterns for both adults and children.

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Amazing Knitting: Knit Booties in 15 minutes - Tutorial

Wat een week! Ik krijg de kriebels een beetje........ er gebeurt zoveel tegelijk dat mijn hersenpan af en toe kraakt. Geen twintig meer, he? Ik kan niet meer zoveel hebben geloof ik ?. Omdat ik zoveel

JUST A NOTE: if you have any questions regarding this pattern, please feel free to email me at [email protected]. This is an older post and I don't always see these new comments! :-) Hey all! I have a fun little project to share that I call my less than 2 hour slippers. I was shopping the other day and found some bulky yarn on sale for $2.50 per skein and I thought -- I could make some slipper socks! I love, love, love slipper socks. I have I don't KNOW how many pairs and I usually try to make sure they are bright, fun colors to make my feet happy. I couldn't find a pattern that I really liked -- so I decided to "wing it!" and below -- I'm going to share my pattern with all of you! Here's a photo of my finished slippers.... cozy as can be! I had done a similar pair in a worsted weight and thought I could amend the pattern a bit. Well, because of gauge, I decided to wing it and start fresh! I wanted, instead of knitting a tube slipper and sew it up the center - I wanted to have some contouring to hug my feet. See? And here, my friends, is the easy peasy pattern that creates a pair of slippers using bulky weight yarn in less than 2 hours! Mine took about an hour an a half with sewing! Materials: 80 to 100 yards of bulky weight yarn - I used Lion Brand Hometown USA in Portland Wine Size 11/8mm Knitting Needles Large cable needle Blunt-eyed needle for sewing when finished Gauge: 9 stitches/12 rows per 4" by 4" square. Abbreviations: CF4 = slip 2 stitches to the front to cable needle, knit 2 off needles, knit 2 off cable needles CB4 = slip 2 stitches to the back to cable needle, knit 2 off needles, knit 2 off cable needles K2tog = Knit 2 together M1 = Make 1: take the left-hand needle and pick up the bar between the stitches from front to back, use the right needle to knit this bar through the back loop. Pattern: Cast on 20 stitches Row 1: K5, P1, K8, P1, K5 Row 2: P5, K1, P8, K1, P5 Row 3: K5, P1, K8, P1, K5 Row 4: P5, K1, P8, K1, P5 Row 5: K1, CB4, P1, K8, P1, CF4, K1 Row 6: P5, K1, P8, K1, P5 Row 7: K5, P1, K8, P1, K5 Row 8: P5, K1, P8, K1, P5 Row 9: K5, P1, K8, P1, K5 Row 10: P5, K1, P8, K1, P5 Row 11: K1, CB4, P1, K8, P1, CF4, K1 Row 12: P5, K1, P8, K1, P5 Row 13: K5, P1, K8, P1, K5 Row 14: P5, K1, P8, K1, P5 Row 15: K5, P1, K8, P1, K5 Row 16: P5, K1, P8, K1, P5 Row 17: K1, CB4, P1, K8, P1, CF4, K1 Row 18: P5, K1, P8, K1, P5 Row 19: K5, P1, K1, M1, K6, M1, K1, P1, K5 Row 20: P5, K1, P10, K1, P5 Row 21: K5, P1, K1, M1, K8, M1, K1, P1, K5 Row 22: P5, K1, P12, K1, P5 Row 23: K1, CB4, P1, K12, P1, CF4, K1 Row 24: P5, K1, P12, K1, P5 Row 25: K5, P1, K12, P1, K5 Row 26: P5, K1, P12, K1, P5 Row 27: K5, P1, K12, P1, K5 Row 28: P5, K1, P12, K1, P5 Row 29: K1, CB4, P1, K12, P1, CF4, K1 Row 30: P5, K1, P12, K1, P5 Row 31: K5, P1, K12, P1, K5 Row 32: P5, K1, P12, K1, P5 Row 32: K5, P1, K2tog (6 times), P1, K5 Row 33: P5, K1, P6, K1, P5 Row 34, K2tog on all stitches to end FINISHING: Sew toe and using a mattress stitch, sew up the top of your slipper until it comfortably hugs your ankle. I had to try on my slipper as I was sewing to make sure it fit properly. After you sew the top, you'll need to seam the back heel. To keep this easy, I flipped the slipper inside out and just sewed up using the chain stitches as my guide. READER TIP FROM MARIA BOVA: To avoid the point that is created completing the heel, don't sew the seam completely. Leave about 4 stitches on each side. Secure the last stitch by going through again. Then, weave the yarn in and out of the 8 stitches and pull to close the ring. This rounds off the heel. PLEASE NOTE This pattern fits my feet--- I wear an 8-1/2 shoe. If you want to make this slipper bigger or smaller -- note -- the distance between the heel and the shaping on my slipper pattern is about 5". So, you can adjust the rows (make less or more depending on your foot size) between the heel and the shaping to account for your foot size. Finished length of my slipper from heel to toe is 10". An hour and a half later, here's a peek at my now happy tootsies..... Can't you just see them smiling? :-) Hope your week is off to a great start! If you make a pair, please, please, please let me know and if you can email me a picture to [email protected] so I can update this post! :-) I'll see you back here real soon! ~Julie

Leg warmers, a 1980's fashion trend, is making a comeback. Make a statement of your own and keep your legs warm by knitting your very own pair of leg warmers. With patterns for beginners or more those more experienced, any level of knitter is sure to find a leg warmer pattern they enjoy in this hub which features a collection of free knit leg warmer patterns from around the web. Featuring patterns for both adults and children.

coses i llanes

Kitchener Stitch is a technique for invisibly grafting live stitches together. It is essentially a…